The Achievable Dream 5-part series - the definitive guide on DVD for planning your motorcycle adventure. Get Ready! covers planning, paperwork, medical and many other topics! "Inspirational and Awesome!" See the trailer here!
Gear Up! is a 2-DVD set, 6 hours! Which bike is right for me? How do I prepare the bike? What stuff do I need - riding gear, clothing, camping gear, first aid kit, tires, maps and GPS? What don't I need? How do I pack it all in? Lots of opinions from over 150 travellers! "This DVD will save you a fortune!"See the trailer here!
So you've done it - got inspired, planned your trip, packed your stuff and you're on the road! This section is about staying healthy, happy and secure on your motorcycle adventure. And crossing borders, war zones or oceans!
On the Road! is 5.5 hours of the tips and advice you need to cross borders, break down language barriers, overcome culture shock, ship the bike and deal with breakdowns and emergencies."Just makes me want to pack up and go!" See the trailer here!
Tire Changing!Grant demystifies the black art of Tire Changing and Repair to help you STAY on the road! "Very informative and practical." See the trailer here!
Ladies on the Loose! For the first time ever, a motorcycle travel DVD made for women, by women! These intrepid women share their tips to help you plan your own motorcycle adventure. They also answer the women-only questions, and entertain you with amazing tales from the road! Presented by Lois Pryce, veteran solo traveller through South America and Africa and author of 'Lois on the Loose', and 'Red Tape and White Knuckles.'
"It has me all fired up to go out on my own adventure!" See the trailer here!
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DVDs - Watch and Learn!
Horizons Unlimited presents!
Achievable Dream The definitive guide to planning your motorcycle adventure! This insanely ambitious 2-year project has produced an informative and entertaining 5-part, 18 hour DVD series. "The ultimate round the world rider's how-to DVD!" MCN UK.
Collectors Box SetAll 5 DVDs with a custom printed slip case. "The series is 'free' because the tips and advice will save much more than you spend on buying the DVD's."
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My biggest single setback was a new front rim that I had to buy in Alaska. It just cracked. Cost me about $1200 and I thought that was bad. Shortned our trip by two to three weeks because of it.
I guess you wont make it to Canada or even Alaska? We were up there in September, but that was pushing it a bit, as the Tempratures were between -2 and 5 (night - day) up in the Yukon. So be prepared if you do plan to go up there.
the used engine from germany seems to work for today, riding from the workshop back. tomorrow gonna ride somemore to see if theres any problem.
tedmag is right. just to looked for the right person to fix my bike. who is the right one?
mike from mphcycles in houston.
he is the owner and he himself came down to see the bike and did the job for me, free!
mph does bmw cars and bikes, mercedes benz and moto guzzi bike. mike is the fastest mechnic that i have ever met. fast and accurate. he certainly know what he is doing. we were impressed not because he did it for free, for helping us out but because of his skills and the kind of personal touch, which changed my view of usa where we had so many points substracted from the 'overall country experience score' from the negative things and people we met.
i pretty tired these 2 days doing the bike but ended up with a running bike, yehhh!
now im still having dirty fingernails and gonna crawl to bed after this message. gonna tell u folks actually what happen these few weeks...
meet me in wonderland later...
JC: we would be in alaska around early sept.... wish i could grow more fur on my body for that tempreture. always like the hot and sunny weather in singapore.
i pretty tired these 2 days doing the bike but ended up with a running bike, yehhh!
meet me in wonderland later...
Well done guys!
About time to have a running bike again!
AK is too often rainy and cold, but still nice in overall picture (at least it left us that impression when we've there about a month ago). AK I probably like the most in the US. September should be still ridable up north, when it gets too cold, stop and make a warm tea/coffee aside the dirt road, beware the bears though .
Safe travels and hope to see you guys again, Margus
sorry folks, we had side tracked too far from the very first post. so how i solve all these problems?
I bought a RD07, 1998 model 2 months before my trip. (because someone stolen my new XRV, not to mention anymore,) now I have been riding it for about 18months.
mileage =??? not accurate. I changed the front brake disc because the previous owners had used the bike a lot.
1) battery broke down in Pakistan on my km6000. bike can’t start but now I changed the new rectifier and new battery. I notice that the 3 yellow wire that’s connected from the alternator to the rectifier is very hot. I cut off the plug (corroded) and connect the wires directly. when engine is off, its about 12v. when engine start and idling, its about 14v-14.5v. when engine at 3000-4000 RPM, it drops to 13V. is this normal?
[COLOR="rgb(255, 0, 255)"]still corroding now. i had ignored this matter for quite some time as im spending time on the engine[/COLOR]
2) I had a full clutch servicing before the trip. now I have difficulty engaging the gears. very very hard. when I stop the bike on gear 1, having the clutch engaged, the bike still moves. couldn’t get to neutral gear on such position unless I put on some throtter. I tried to adjust the clutch free play, lesser, making the biting point further but doesn’t make much different. even I have changed new engine oil and new sprockets+chain. what could have happen? will a clutch cable be pulled longer after some time and had to be replaced? is there something wrong with my clutch? how can I check?
i took out the clutch and checked. the clutch disc (the one with edges) is within specification limits but the clutch friction plates (the smooth surfaced) do not have any specification on the manual. so i changed the whole set and it is working properly again. im surprised that it wear off so fast, only 67000km.
3) I am crusing at 80km/hr at 3500rpm with my top gear. I had 3 of the 50liters boxes full load, 43 liters tank, some extra bags in front, my wife and I weighs about 120kg total. is this normal?
with the RD07 engine installed, it is the same, even without luggage.
4) if i’m crusing at 4000rpm with my top gear for some distance, or going thro uphilling roads which requires at many times using lower gear with 4000-4500rpm climbing… my engine oil burns out. on average, I need to top up 2 liters of new engine oil for every 5000km distance. how can I get this repaired?
my solution to the above problem had solved: changed the whole engine.
I’m now in Columbia, heading to Alaska, then to Australia, east timor, indoesia, south east asia then Singapore. will take another year to get home. any advice for me for the 4 issues.
What oil are you using ? how much are you using and can you do a compression test ?
Otherwize leave it and enjoy it.....
im using shell roterant 15w-40. cheap oil. US$11 per gallon. for the past 1000km, i had topped up about 500ml of engine oil. now im in canada and cannot find similar oil so i just bought a 10w-40 mineral oil to top up./
so if the compression test fails, that means i have to do something to my valves or piston rings, AGAIN?! what might have caused that? it is HAPPENING AGAIN!!!!!!
im using the K&N filter.
could it be the airbox is not properly sealed so dust went into the carbs?
could it be the scottoiler? it had a vaccum line: the scottoiler is not working well now and the vaccum line sucks dirty things to the engine?
i just saw a overflow pipe is broken. this overflow pipe is the one that is sealed. when the bike is topple over, it will sometimes filled with engine oil and we have to clear it. this overflow pipe is connected to the airbox. it is broken due to the fiction it has with the chain. it is placed too near to the chain.
could this broken pipe be involved in the burning of engine oil?
Compare like with like, now you've done a few kms its time for its first oil change. Drain when engine is warm - run for 5 minutes... (don’t go crazy and drain after a 500 km ride) Fit a new Honda Filter and fill with a good semi synthetic oil – semi is important, its not a new race engine so no need for fully synthetic. I use a 10/40 ..
Check oil when warm, with the bike upright.. so you’ll need someone to hold it for you….
Document this including km’s so you know for when you need to do a refill.
Your K&N will have little impact on the condition of the engine at this moment. However make sure its well oiled and make sure air only accesses the engine from the air box, so no loose clips and pipes. The overflow pipe you talk about isn’t an issue…
Remember the worse the conditions you ride, eg sand the more regular maintenance you need.
I also oiled my chain every second refill of the tank and kept an eye on my chain slack.
Valves stem seals, worn piston rings or bore or you have an oil leak or weep at a seal or gasket.
hi Tedmagnum and friends.
with this 'new' engine from germany, it stills burn engine oil!!! every 5000km we have to top up 2liters.
what is happening???
then it is having hipcups too. when i close the throtter after riding to a stop, i put my feet down, the idling has hipcup. sometimes the hipcups is so great that it cut off my engine. the worst thing is when i bring the bike to any mechnic, i start the bike and it idle, nothing happens. its only after riding then come to a stop, the hipcup happens.
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