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  #1  
Old 30 Apr 2009
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XRV RD07, my small but annoying issues.

I bought a RD07, 1998 model 2 months before my trip. (because someone stolen my new XRV, not to mention anymore,) now I have been riding it for about 18months.

mileage =??? not accurate. I changed the front brake disc because the previous owners had used the bike a lot.

1) battery broke down in Pakistan on my km6000. bike can’t start but now I changed the new rectifier and new battery. I notice that the 3 yellow wire that’s connected from the alternator to the rectifier is very hot. I cut off the plug (corroded) and connect the wires directly. when engine is off, its about 12v. when engine start and idling, its about 14v-14.5v. when engine at 3000-4000 RPM, it drops to 13V. is this normal?
2) I had a full clutch servicing before the trip. now I have difficulty engaging the gears. very very hard. when I stop the bike on gear 1, having the clutch engaged, the bike still moves. couldn’t get to neutral gear on such position unless I put on some throtter. I tried to adjust the clutch free play, lesser, making the biting point further but doesn’t make much different. even I have changed new engine oil and new sprockets+chain. what could have happen? will a clutch cable be pulled longer after some time and had to be replaced? is there something wrong with my clutch? how can I check?
3) I am crusing at 80km/hr at 3500rpm with my top gear. I had 3 of the 50liters boxes full load, 43 liters tank, some extra bags in front, my wife and I weighs about 120kg total. is this normal?
4) if i’m crusing at 4000rpm with my top gear for some distance, or going thro uphilling roads which requires at many times using lower gear with 4000-4500rpm climbing… my engine oil burns out. on average, I need to top up 2 liters of new engine oil for every 5000km distance. how can I get this repaired?

I’m now in Columbia, heading to Alaska, then to Australia, east timor, indoesia, south east asia then Singapore. will take another year to get home. any advice for me for the 4 issues?

please advice….

goh mia chun
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  #2  
Old 1 May 2009
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1) battery broke down in Pakistan on my km6000. bike can’t start but now I changed the new rectifier and new battery. I notice that the 3 yellow wire that’s connected from the alternator to the rectifier is very hot. I cut off the plug (corroded) and connect the wires directly. when engine is off, its about 12v. when engine start and idling, its about 14v-14.5v. when engine at 3000-4000 RPM, it drops to 13V. is this normal?


Very well done. It is ok... Where do you measure the voltage? On battery? Should be more than 12 V when engine is off.


2) I had a full clutch servicing before the trip. now I have difficulty engaging the gears. very very hard. when I stop the bike on gear 1, having the clutch engaged, the bike still moves. couldn’t get to neutral gear on such position unless I put on some throtter. I tried to adjust the clutch free play, lesser, making the biting point further but doesn’t make much different. even I have changed new engine oil and new sprockets+chain. what could have happen? will a clutch cable be pulled longer after some time and had to be replaced? is there something wrong with my clutch? how can I check?
3) I am crusing at 80km/hr at 3500rpm with my top gear. I had 3 of the 50liters boxes full load, 43 liters tank, some extra bags in front, my wife and I weighs about 120kg total. is this normal?


No, you have to many luggage
RPM and speed looks ok if you use normal, typicall sprockets


4) if i’m crusing at 4000rpm with my top gear for some distance, or going thro uphilling roads which requires at many times using lower gear with 4000-4500rpm climbing… my engine oil burns out. on average, I need to top up 2 liters of new engine oil for every 5000km distance. how can I get this repaired?


Sometimes it happens, if you use K&N filter or have modificated exhaust you have to add some oil every 500 km. You should write what kind of oil you use. It can also help to solve the problem no.2
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  #3  
Old 1 May 2009
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2L of oil in 5000km is WAY TOO MUCH !!

You must be burning or leaking oil somewhere.

Maybe the valves, head gasket or piston rings are too worn.

Are you sure it's not leaking anywhere ???


You clutch problem is that it is "Dragging".. It is not disengaging properly.

Either the cable does not have enough slack or the actual clutch basket is "notched" or the plates are warped. It needs to be taken apart and checked properly.
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  #4  
Old 1 May 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Singaporedream View Post

1) battery broke down in Pakistan on my km6000. bike can’t start but now I changed the new rectifier and new battery. I notice that the 3 yellow wire that’s connected from the alternator to the rectifier is very hot. I cut off the plug (corroded) and connect the wires directly. when engine is off, its about 12v. when engine start and idling, its about 14v-14.5v. when engine at 3000-4000 RPM, it drops to 13V. is this normal?
It sounds wrong to me..where did you get the R/R from? here is the specs that you should get:
  1. Battery Output (across + and – terminals) (engine at operating temp) Honda Spec =14-15.0Vdc
  2. Battery Leak test (between (-) pole of battery and (-) lead
    Honda Spec= 0.1mA
  3. Alternator test: Resistance
    Between three yellow wires loom side of rectifier connection (rectifier/regulator disconnected).
    Honda spec = 0.1-1.0Ω Continuity
    Between three yellow wires loom side of rectifier connection (rectifier/regulator disconnected) and ground.
    Honda spec = OL (infinity)


    Output (Vac) Between three yellow wires loom side of rectifier connection (rectifier/regulator disconnected).
    At 500rpm Honda spec >50Vac But all should be equal.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Singaporedream View Post
2) I had a full clutch servicing before the trip. now I have difficulty engaging the gears. very very hard. when I stop the bike on gear 1, having the clutch engaged, the bike still moves. couldn’t get to neutral gear on such position unless I put on some throtter. I tried to adjust the clutch free play, lesser, making the biting point further but doesn’t make much different. even I have changed new engine oil and new sprockets+chain. what could have happen? will a clutch cable be pulled longer after some time and had to be replaced? is there something wrong with my clutch? how can I check?
What do you mean by clutch servicing? NEW ONE? It sounds like the clutch is slipping to me.
okay
What grade/type oil are you using.. remember..fully synth, with friction modifiers are NO GOOD.. the AT has a wet cluch you need some friction. the modern oil for hi-performance bikes is not what we need.. I run mineral deisel BTW. see here http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...torcycle-34615.
Also how much oil is in it when this is happening..
Suggestion one is to look at the oil..

If it is not the oil.... Do you have it a centre stand? if so up it up. tighten the cluch cable so you can feel it, start the bike and put it in first.. the rear wheel should move.. but you should be able to stop it easily with your foot or hand... If you cant play with the play until you can.. if you can never.. change the cable as step one.. repeat above.. if that has not fixed it.. your clutch is bad. it could be the plates or just the springs (it does not sound like selector arm to me)... cant tell from here.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Singaporedream View Post
3) I am crusing at 80km/hr at 3500rpm with my top gear. I had 3 of the 50liters boxes full load, 43 liters tank, some extra bags in front, my wife and I weighs about 120kg total. is this normal?
That much weight .. yeah it is okay


Quote:
Originally Posted by Singaporedream View Post
4) if i’m crusing at 4000rpm with my top gear for some distance, or going thro uphilling roads which requires at many times using lower gear with 4000-4500rpm climbing… my engine oil burns out. on average, I need to top up 2 liters of new engine oil for every 5000km distance. how can I get this repaired?
Also not a huge deal but i would check you valve clearances to make sure that you are not out.. (it should be done evey 12000 miles any way).. Also see the oil comments above.. Hi-spec stuff cant deal with the AT configuration, and will burn off faster...

Good luck
and let us know
Xander
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  #5  
Old 1 May 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Xander View Post

What do you mean by clutch servicing? NEW ONE? It sounds like the clutch is slipping to me.
Hey Xander...

I can't see how this sounds like a slipping clutch ??? I think he means that the bike is crawling in first gear (many people say a clutch is engaged with the lever pulled in, although its the opposite)

This would certainly also explain why gear changes are so difficult. Ever tried to go through a gearbox without using the clutch ??

A slipping clutch would mean there is little torque going through the shafts making changing easy and there would huge loss of drive power too.

In losening the clutch cable, I think hes got too much play which means the clutch is not fully disengaging when he pulls the lever.. Just a guess at this stage.

I don't mean to sound patronising as you obviously know what you're talking about...

Feel free to pull me up on this if i've misred something...
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  #6  
Old 4 May 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tedmagnum View Post
Hey Xander...

I can't see how this sounds like a slipping clutch ??? I think he means that the bike is crawling in first gear....... snip......
You are 100% correct. i was just using "slipped" as a short hand for buggered.. I was just being lazy... sorry for any confusion i may have caused... it does not change what i suggest though...
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  #7  
Old 6 May 2009
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1)Battery problem


From Sambor: Very well done. It is ok... Where do you measure the voltage? On battery? Should be more than 12 V when engine is off.

now i had changed it to a yuasa maintance free battary. its about 11.5V at the battery when it is off. is this normal?

From Xander: all the battery specifications u gave me does not meet my test but now the bike is running ok for the past 14 months. the issue is when the battery is going to break down again? it will not give any warning before hand. it will happen on the last straw.

2) Clutch

From Tedmagnum:
You clutch problem is that it is "Dragging".. It is not disengaging properly.
Either the cable does not have enough slack or the actual clutch basket is "notched" or the plates are warped. It needs to be taken apart and checked properly.


bike is not crawling in first gear. When i fully engage the clutch and drop to first gear from neutral, the bike starts to move. Suspect: the clutch cable is lengthen thro time... will that be possible?
Also when i give a gas and the change of gear have made easier.


Hey Xander...
I can't see how this sounds like a slipping clutch ??? I think he means that the bike is crawling in first gear (many people say a clutch is engaged with the lever pulled in, although its the opposite)
This would certainly also explain why gear changes are so difficult. Ever tried to go through a gearbox without using the clutch ??
A slipping clutch would mean there is little torque going through the shafts making changing easy and there would huge loss of drive power too.
In losening the clutch cable, I think hes got too much play which means the clutch is not fully disengaging when he pulls the lever.. Just a guess at this stage.
I don't mean to sound patronising as you obviously know what you're talking about...
Feel free to pull me up on this if i've misred something...


From Xander:
What do you mean by clutch servicing? NEW ONE? It sounds like the clutch is slipping to me.
Good question. I couldnt contact my mechnic now. I saw him taking the clutch plates apart and he ask me to buy a can of glue, the kind of glue for sniffing, also the kind of glue for tyre puncture patch. No idea what he use the glue for.
What grade/type oil are you using.. remember..fully synth, with friction modifiers are NO GOOD.. the AT has a wet cluch you need some friction. the modern oil for hi-performance bikes is not what we need.. I run mineral deisel BTW. see here http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...torcycle-34615
.
Im using 20-50 semi-synt.
Also how much oil is in it when this is happening..

After crusing at 4000rpm for a distance, i stopped and the bike die off when i engage clutch on gear one. The idling became lower and weaker. Then i check: the engine oil is low.
Suggestion one is to look at the oil..

If it is not the oil.... Do you have it a centre stand?
Yes, i have. if so up it up. tighten the cluch cable so you can feel it, start the bike and put it in first.. the rear wheel should move.. but you should be able to stop it easily with your foot or hand... If you cant play with the play until you can.. if you can never.. change the cable as step one.. repeat above.. if that has not fixed it.. your clutch is bad. it could be the plates or just the springs (it does not sound like selector arm to me)... cant tell from here.

Ok, will try it. will let u know hows the situation.
Change clutch cable..... tough job for me, never did it or seen how to do it before.
Do i need to take out the tank to change the cable?


Tedmagnum: You are 100% correct. i was just using "slipped" as a short hand for buggered.. I was just being lazy... sorry for any confusion i may have caused... it does not change what i suggest though...


3) RPM at 3500 with 80km/hr
im using front 16 and rear 43 sprockets.
after with many advises from you guys, i think its really the weight issue.

4) Engine oil burning issue

From Sambor:
Sometimes it happens, if you use K&N filter or have modificated exhaust you have to add some oil every 500 km. You should write what kind of oil you use. It can also help to solve the problem no.2

Yes, im using K&N. I only made the angle of the exhaust lower so the aluminium pannier could fix on its top. Im using semi synth, 20-50. currently in columbia where it is abit humid but doesnt make much difference when in colder countries for the engine issue. Is it better to change to original airfilter?

From Tedmagnum:
2L of oil in 5000km is WAY TOO MUCH !!
You must be burning or leaking oil somewhere.
Yes... oil burning or leaking.... but where?
On the left side of the engine, i think where the valve is, there is something that we could open with a big allan key. There seems to be dirt collected there. I could see very clearly because oil leaks out and dirt sticks there. Is it related?
Maybe the valves, head gasket or piston rings are too worn.
Are you sure it's not leaking anywhere ???

How to check the valves, head gasket or piston ring are too worn. Could they be replaced easily?



From Xander:
Also not a huge deal but i would check you valve clearances to make sure that you are not out.. (it should be done evey 12000 miles any way).. Also see the oil comments above.. Hi-spec stuff cant deal with the AT configuration, and will burn off faster...

My last valve clearence was done in Germany, 1 year ago. I wasn´t able to witness the repair. That was at km25000. now my bike is on km60000 and had not done any valve clearance. Im in Columbia now, going to panama next week and heading to america. (hope the swine flu is cleared in mexico) along the way i dont think there is anyone reliable to do my valve clearance. If valve clearance is not done periodic, what will happen?

Xander, Tedmagnum and Sambor, thanks for the advise. I am really a mechnic idiot.... but willing to try.
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  #8  
Old 7 May 2009
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First thing Singaporedream.

Clutch: When you say "clutch is engaged". Do you mean when the lever is in or out ??

Engaged means you are not holding the lever in and the plates are together and driving the gearbox. You need to check it you can stop the wheel with your foot when the clutch is disengaged (pulling the lever to the bar)

Mechanic using glue on your clutch ??? I AM VERY WORRIED !!

Battery: Your battery should have 12.5V when bike is off. If not, the battery is not healthy or it is not being charged by the bike properly.

Oil: 20w/50 is SEMI sythetic is fine for the AT as long as it is for motorcycles !! If it is for cars then there may be additives which are bad for motorcycle clutches.

If oil is seeping from the LH side round hole then yes, this could explain your problem. It only needs a rubber 0-ring but it might be hard to find the correct size. Make sure it is tight.

Valves: How many miles since valves checked ?? You should really check every 12,000 miles but the AT seems to stay in spec for a good while longer.

If they are bad, you will lose power, economy and in bad cases, make the top end wear out quicker.
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  #9  
Old 7 May 2009
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Hello Sing...

1. No, it is not normal. Check your voltmeter first... Should be not less than 12,6 -12,8 V
BTW. You choose very good battery

4. K&N is good for tarmac, but I have seen that many AT consume oil with K&N (especially when this filter was not cleaned proper way). So put normal paper filtr inside and look what will happen... Angle of exhaust doesn't have any influeance. Why you use 20W50? So hot in South America?

Valve clarence is not difficult and can be done by every mechanic. BTW it is the time to do it in your AT.
Check your sparks and tell us something about their colour. Probably your carburattor also need inspection... And it should be done when you replace K&N for normal filter.

greetings

Sambor
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Old 7 May 2009
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I don’t know much about the AT but K&N-filters and high oil-consumption is not unknown.
Basically it might lead to premature wear of piston-rings, carbs and valves/seats. This again leads to high oil-consumption and loss of power.

Some more information here: Debunking the K&N Myth - Why OEM is Better: Nissan Articles: Nissan Forums / Infiniti Forums - NICOclub
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  #11  
Old 8 May 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tedmagnum View Post
First thing Singaporedream.

Clutch: When you say "clutch is engaged". Do you mean when the lever is in or out ??
opps.. im sorry. when i say clutch is engaged i ment: lever is in. sorry for the misunderstanding of english im using.
Engaged means you are not holding the lever in and the plates are together and driving the gearbox. You need to check it you can stop the wheel with your foot when the clutch is disengaged (pulling the lever to the bar)
i put on main stand, get it run with the lever in, i can stop the wheels but abit hard.
Mechanic using glue on your clutch ??? I AM VERY WORRIED !!
yeh, he said it is a better alternative to something.... which is better... i cant remember.
Battery: Your battery should have 12.5V when bike is off. If not, the battery is not healthy or it is not being charged by the bike properly.
when i first bought the battery, the brasilians fast charged it for 3 hours only. 12.5V direct from the battery terminal? from ur experience, what are the symtom of a battery that is gonna to fail soon?
Oil: 20w/50 is SEMI sythetic is fine for the AT as long as it is for motorcycles !! If it is for cars then there may be additives which are bad for motorcycle clutches.
phew... i change every 5000km for such 20/50 oil. thanks.
If oil is seeping from the LH side round hole then yes, this could explain your problem. It only needs a rubber 0-ring but it might be hard to find the correct size. Make sure it is tight.
i cant confirm that the dirt stick on that LH side round hole is cause by oil from the engine. does it share the same oil as the engine oil? but the oil leakage from that LH side is not so much. that is the hole for the valve clearence?

Valves: How many miles since valves checked ?? You should really check every 12,000 miles but the AT seems to stay in spec for a good while longer.
35000km, equals to 20000miles? what is top end?
If they are bad, you will lose power, economy and in bad cases, make the top end wear out quicker.
just change engine oil today without oil filter. only drain out less than 2 liters. also the K&N is full of dirt. does it affect?
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  #12  
Old 8 May 2009
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Hi Sambor!

[quote=Sambor;240826]Hello Sing...

1. No, it is not normal. Check your voltmeter first... Should be not less than 12,6 -12,8 V
BTW. You choose very good battery
tks. i dont understand by: check your voltmeter first. u mean check the voltage of the battery at it´s terminal end? i check it at the relay starter point when the engine is off. same? also when i bought the battery the brasilian only fast charge for 3 hrs.

4. K&N is good for tarmac, but I have seen that many AT consume oil with K&N (especially when this filter was not cleaned proper way). So put normal paper filtr inside and look what will happen... Angle of exhaust doesn't have any influeance. Why you use 20W50? So hot in South America?
i will try to get original air filter if i can find along the way. i think airfilter contribute a part to the mystery of missing engine oil.

20w50 not to be use in hot weather? hmm... i want to study about that. its cheaper in my case and i think the bike still run. whats ur recommandation for hot weather?
Valve clarence is not difficult and can be done by every mechanic. BTW it is the time to do it in your AT.
Check your sparks and tell us something about their colour. Probably your carburattor also need inspection... And it should be done when you replace K&N for normal filter.
thanks for ur advise Sambor.... i will keep it in good shape!
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Old 8 May 2009
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hi Alibaba.

will try out the original air filter and let u guys know the results!
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  #14  
Old 8 May 2009
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20W50 is the correct oil for most of South America.

When I was there, its all you could usually buy anyway.
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  #15  
Old 8 May 2009
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??

Did the mechanic use glue instead of gasket cement when he replaced the clutch cover? Oops, you'll have fun removing it!
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Horizons Unlimited is not a big multi-national company, just two people who love motorcycle travel and have grown what started as a hobby in 1997 into a full time job (usually 8-10 hours per day and 7 days a week) and a labour of love. To keep it going and a roof over our heads, we run events (22 this year!); we sell inspirational and informative DVDs; we have a few selected advertisers; and we make a small amount from memberships.

You don't have to be a Member to come to an HU meeting, access the website, the HUBB or to receive the e-zine. What you get for your membership contribution is our sincere gratitude, good karma and knowing that you're helping to keep the motorcycle travel dream alive. Contributing Members and Gold Members do get additional features on the HUBB. Here's a list of all the Member benefits on the HUBB.


Books & DVDs

amazon

All the best travel books and videos listed and often reviewed on HU's famous Books page. Check it out and get great travel books from all over the world.


Motorcycle Express for shipping and insurance!

Motorcycle Express

MC Air Shipping, (uncrated) USA / Canada / Europe and other areas. Be sure to say "Horizons Unlimited" to get your $25 discount on Shipping!
Insurance - see: For foreigners traveling in US and Canada and for Americans and Canadians traveling in other countries, then mail it to MC Express and get your HU $15 discount!




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