ok i am not 100% sure i got this right - side stand...

i undid the 8mm nut, pulled the selector / switch whatever off the mount adjacent the side stand.

i cleaned this - was pretty grotty. i sprayed it with chain lube (no wd40 in the kit...)

i put it most of the way back on... rounded the nut... its not tight, maybe a 2mm gap.

i didn't tape anything or play with any wiring. what is supposed to be bypassed?

went for a ride anyway, same problem still occuring. sometimes starter button works, sometimes need to turn ignition off then back on.

the stalling occurs in neutral on the centre stand once the bike is hot, so i didn't have high hopes that the side stand was the problem.

gonna pull the fuel pump out tomorrow - is there anything to be careful of?

incidently i seem to have done a poor job of reinstalling the fan after i pulled out the radiator to clean it, as it was hitting something or other and making a raquet tonight while i was playing with the bike. whoops.

later,
d

Per post #28 above

You're possibly right that it's not the cause of the problem, but as yet you've not eliminated it. You leave the side stand assembly dangling, i.e. once the switch is gaffer taped into a fixed position you just seal everything up, rather than reassembling.

Even this didn't prevent the problem long term and the German dealer when I was on my way to Poland disconnected everything which finally solved it. Not sure what you have to do with the wires though.

__________________
"For sheer delight there is nothing like altitude; it gives one the thrill of adventure
and enlarges the world in which you live," Irving Mather (1892-1966)

Any updates?

ok.

so i pulled out the fuel pump assembly.

the fuel pump appears to be VERY common. one of the bikers here (R6 & AT) took me to the "new parts" section of town. in the first shop they had a pump made in PRC from vehicle unknown for 80 sudanese pounds (about $30USD) and a hyundai accent made in s korea for 170 pounds. went with the hyundai. second shop had a generic brand from korea for 160 pounds. all look pretty much the same as the bosch from the bmw.

hardest part was removing the end of the fuel hose from the flanges of the pump. (the hose has smooth ends and concertina in the middle so can't be cut & shortened or re-joined) the bosch has 3 or 4 flanges and is made of bakerlite or alloy i think, not plastic. the alternates are plastic with 1 flange. the end of the hose which fits into the filter has a single use clamp, the end to the pump has no clamp but some glue and the flanges. pliars, vice grips, screwdrivers all no good. not wanting the scars, i paid a mechanic who had done it before, 10 pounds to heat the hose with a cigarette lighter (hot water hadn't worked for me). 0.5 pounds for a 12mm hose clamp. all up, $67. the new spark plugs, 4 bottles of octane booster & 1 of injection cleaner were about the same...

the hose is plastic & i couldn't find a replacement. i assume the bosch pump comes supplied with the hose. as the hose is submersible i didn't want to substitute with rubber hose. luckily the original wasn't too badly damaged after having a go at it with tools trying to remove...

re-assembled the bike & did 30km in 46 deg this afternoon no probs. will try put another 50km on it tonight or 100km in the morning before i pack up camp... with a bit of luck i'll be having a cold one in gondar, ethiopia (780km from khartoum), tuesday night...

incidently i have no idea what pressure or fuel flow i was supposed to achieve with the stock pump but i assume if i'm averaging 4L/100km the hyundai accent is gonna be using more than this so it should be more than adequate. on the test ride today the fuel consumption was fine.

if this doesn't work... i am out of ideas. probably fly it to the cape or buy a trailer & hook up to an overlander truck south. i'll be ordering a GS911 first opportunity.

so... hopefully i am out of the woods.

thanks for all the suggestions guys, i'll update this again either tomorrow or in a few days

safe travels
dave

Im glad your problem is sorted (for now anyway) !!

As powerful and smooth these new computer based bikes are, it shows that simplicity really is best for overland machines. Shit loads cheaper if things do go wrong too.

Safe riding !!

__________________
Did some trips.
Rode some bikes.
Fix them for a living.
Can't say anymore.

Bit like 'Ice cold in Alex' then? Enjoy it!

Tim

__________________
"For sheer delight there is nothing like altitude; it gives one the thrill of adventure
and enlarges the world in which you live," Irving Mather (1892-1966)

Great to hear, fingers crossed you've fixed the problem and not just a sypmtom!

Glad you're sorted. Enjoy that .

As for simplicity, I'd guess finding say a carb diaphragm for an airhead would be just as tough especially when they aren't used on Korean cars. It's what you know and what bits you can buy, doesn't matter about the technology IMHO.

Andy

True.. But a hell of a lot simpler to diagnose in the first place. Poor Dajg has probably been going mad checking sensors here, relays there etc etc !

A spare carb diaphram is easier to carry than a suitcase full of electronic gubbins

Anyway, off topic ! My bad !

__________________
Did some trips.
Rode some bikes.
Fix them for a living.
Can't say anymore.