Just did a search for some details on replacing the bearings and seals on my beveldrive (paralever GS airhead) with no luck. Can anyone sugest some links or teck articles on this subject? Has anyone done it themselves? I understand you need some special tools for opening the drive. Any sugestions would be great. The bevel is showing a lot of play after 120k miles, seems like it needs to be re-shimmed or possible new bearings.
Thanx!

I just rebuilt my bike but didn't do the bevel drive. I thought about it and looked up the procedure in the Clymer manual where they said it would be better to just take it to a shop since there are special tools involved. That's not terribly helpful is it?

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Ekke Kok

'84 R100RT 141,000 km (Dad's!)
'89 R100GS 240,000 km (and ready for another continent)
'07 R1200GS Adventure (sitting in Germany waiting to go RTW in 2012)


www.ekke-audrey.ca

It's decribed in BMWs "Repair manual", haven't done it myself.

Final drive! Nooo problem!!
The problem with the dealers in my area is that they do not have the right tools to set the tooth backlash properly.
These items is some of the most expensive to buy and I guess final drive repairs does not get done to often.
Your back wheel should be able to move about 3cm back and forth if in gear.
This is normal and I would not worry if it is a bit more. This adjustment does not change on account of normal wear but only need to be done when bearings need to be replaced. If the bearings is fine I would not worry to much about it and you can also feel it by turning the back wheel with the bike on the centre stand and in neutral.
If you really need to get in there to see what is cutting, you can bolt loose the cover on the hub side and pull it of. You will first have to remove the protection tube for the brake cam with a suitable drift and be careful as it fit real tight. I suggest lots off heat and when refitting the tube use bearing retainer to make sure oil will not leak past.
The crown wheel can be removed from the casing and you will be able to check all the bearings and the wear on the crown wheel and pinion. Pay special attention to the bearing on the pinion by trying to pull the pinion shaft in and out of the casing, if there is lots of noticeable play here the bearing is on its way out.
The rest I will leave to a dealer to take care of.

Thanx GS, great info. A friend just send me the PDF BMW manual, very informative. Usually i can find a way to make the tools i need, but the measuring is a little critical and intimidating. Just to be clear though, the backlash of the gears is not what concerns me. It's the actual vertical play in the wheel thats got me thinking here. At the hub i have about one mm of play, this translates to a lot more at the tire. Nothing leaks and i have the typical fine fuzz on the drain-plug, nothing serious. no wierd noises or heat, the bevel runs smooth and the oil is clean. I wouls hate to have the bevel go south on me when i'm in Bolivia, need a backup plan. Either prep a replacement and have it ready to ship, or try to solve this problem through preventative maintinence. Truth is, i'm not sure if it's a problem at all?? How much play is too much?

Hi Ron,
There shouldn't be any freeplay on the hub at all. 1 mm is way too much. Something is wrong for sure. To open the bevel drive you need to warm the housing around a brake cam tube up and than knock the housing cover at that area using wooden /plastic hammer. The tube will stay in the housing cover. I assume the bearings will need to replace. In case of my bevel drive bearings were OK but boss for the smaller bearing was worn. I fixed this using a very thin walled bush. If you start to change bearings you will need a set of spacer rings to adjust a gap/freeplay between gears and a preload on bearings. Let us know how it is going. I think I can provide you with some usefull tips.

Thanxfor the advice. I´m on my way gack to Canada now and won´t be back in Colombia until October. I´ll be doing the work then. Your help is greatly apreciated
BTW...did you use the special BMW tools, or manage to figure a way around it?

I made my own tools. The best option would be to take the bevel drive back to Canada and rebuild it there if you get a chance. You will need some tools which may be hard to get in Columbia e.g. hot air gun, press, .... Have you opened your bevel drive yet?

Not an option. I'm in Mexico now and arive home in two days. Presses and hot-air guns exist in Colombia, along with every other tool you can imagine in the first world. It's special tools and parts that are the problem I'm sure i can make my own tools, i guess i'll have to order the shims after i discover what i need.

Ron,
I'm back from holiday and I have pictures of my tools which I used. I can't send you PM as I don't have 8 posts yet. Can you please PM me your email address and I'll send you pictures?