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  #1  
Old 23 Nov 2007
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R100GS advice in Aus-bloody-tralia

I am novice when it comes to R100PD's (good with land rovers though).

I want to ride from Aus, to Europe, and hopefully down into South Africa over the course of 2 years.

I am currently looking at 2 R100 GSPDs. Both have approx. 90 000 kms. (Seems to be pretty common that people sell at 90K over here?)

Unfortunately, pictures and the sellers word is all I have to go by as bikes are located across the other side of the country. The asking price is about A$6 900 ' 92 or A$7 500 '93. These prices are pretty much on par with the market in AUS, and to be honest, they are only getting more expensive.

The '92 has had some recent work done to it:
replaced the drive shaft universals in March of 2006. The valves, valve springs, seats and guides have been replaced in August 2006, new fork springs, and steering bearings.

The '93 has no pannier rack, so added $$.

I realize it is kind of a ridiculous question, but from experience with your own PD's, and considering I hope to rack up a good 70 000ks, what 'preventative' maintenance prior to departure should I be factoring on top of the purchase price?

Any advice would be super.

Also forgot to mention, the '93 has had rear frame strengthened for previous 2-up travel (strengthened or cracked and repaired? unfortunately just cant see the bike prior to purchase). Front brake also has a floating disc.....if you had to buy blind, which would you choose?
BMW R100GSPD - eBay BMW, Road Bikes, Motorcycles, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 24-Nov-07 14:18:07 AEDST)


1993 BMW R100GS PARIS DAKAR - BikePoint

Kind regards

Last edited by al_baylis; 23 Nov 2007 at 11:13. Reason: clarify
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  #2  
Old 23 Nov 2007
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-Spare rotor
-New brushes for alternator
-Change pushrod seals
-Change timing chain
-Piston rings
-Carb rebuild
-Øhlins shock
-Top end job
-Check all bearings (steering, wheel, swingarm)
-Change oil and filters
-New battery (?)
-Check rims for cracks (not likely but they are expensive)
-Adjust ignition and check that advancement works
-Check driveshaft
-Clean and lube starter
-Install fuel filters
-Change oilseals in gearbox (if you are paranoid)
-Cange fork-oil, clean the forks and inspect the bearings
-Install a voltmeter

The shock probably costs more then all the other stuff on the list, so pick a bike with a good shock!


Hmm, a long list but you can do most of the job in two days. I went on a 50kkm trip when my bike had almost 90kkm, check here; http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...long-tour-7818
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  #3  
Old 23 Nov 2007
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How about looking for a standard GS instead of the usually much more expensive PD's? Fitting an after-market tank from Acerbis gives you more volume (43L instead of 32L) and a lower centre of gravity. The PD and standard GS are otherwise identical.

Re luggage you'll need to think about something sturdier than the standard Beemer set. This is good for tarmac, but will never last on African pistes or Ozzie backroads... Something like Metal Mule or Touratech, or maybe even home-made ;-)

Hans
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Old 23 Nov 2007
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Insure it for more then it's worth and then burn/crash it and reap the rewards to spend on an everyday GS parts are much more common.
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  #5  
Old 23 Nov 2007
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roflmao

Quote:
Originally Posted by juddadredd View Post
Insure it for more then it's worth and then burn/crash it and reap the rewards to spend on an everyday GS parts are much more common.

isnt that how the aussies got there in the first place, by being criminal?
no offence meant but it did tickle me did that!

Martyn
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  #6  
Old 23 Nov 2007
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Bin the starter motor and git a Nippon replacement or have the magnets bolted in (Valeo).

J
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  #7  
Old 23 Nov 2007
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Have a look to see what I did on mine - left menu near the top, "Johnsons Trip"
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  #8  
Old 24 Nov 2007
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All very good advice above. I would +1 the starter motor, the Nippondenso is an excellent alternative, much lighter, completely re-buildable in any country (it's like Toyota) and uses much less amps. I use Panasonic batteries...bulletproof! I would seriously consider changing out the un-reliable charging system, either for the Omega 400w, or the other solid state one thats become quite popular (whats the name??) Make sure your tranny is up to date, and if opening the box, i would sugest the lower 1st. gear. Make sure your driveshafy u-joints are greasable and check the rubber boots for cracks. The heads are usually only good for about 50-70k miles before requiring complete re-build. Replace the cables, they're cheap. Always bring a spare clutch cable. It's funny, the throttle cables seem to last foreever, but the clutch will go south in a hurry! If you pull out the gear-box, inspect the clutch closely, especially the splines. They're not that expensive to replace anyways. Learn the in's and out's of maintaining the bike! Put together a proper tool-kit, and only use this kit when you work on the bike. As great as tubeless tires are, ALWAYS carry at least a spare front, if not both and the equipment to patch them along with tubeless tire plugs. Carry some 10m of rope and an ancor...the front brakes suck! Improvements can be made with an EBC rotor (anything but Stainless Steel!) Lots of info out here on improving the brakes. If your carrying a load or two-up, re-enforce the sub-frame, it's kinda weak stock. Follow all of the recomendations above and you will have the ultimate touring bike. There's something to say simplicity. I also own a 1200GS, but i'm afraid to leave dealership range with it!
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  #9  
Old 25 Nov 2007
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Thanks

Just a quick note to say thanks for all your advice, appreciate your time.

Also noticed a '92 100GS that has come on the market with only 6 000 ks....
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  #10  
Old 25 Nov 2007
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R100gs

Al,

what site is the new one on?

Cheers
Ivan
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  #11  
Old 25 Nov 2007
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need 8 posts
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  #12  
Old 25 Nov 2007
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8th postsssss
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  #13  
Old 26 Nov 2007
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Grant - you started with a new bike .. on a ten year old bike?

Replace the

front shock seals
steering head bearings
paralever drive shaft
paralever rear bearings

hall efect switch
spark plug caps and wires
accelator cables
clutch cable
clutch plate

And same from above
-New brushes for alternator
-Change pushrod seals
-Change timing chain
-Piston rings
-Carb rebuild (include new needle and seat.. they ware.

Have the rear shock overhauld ......


Other side of the country .. that would be Darwin then?
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  #14  
Old 26 Nov 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AliBaba View Post
-Spare rotor
-New brushes for alternator
-Change pushrod seals
-Change timing chain
-Piston rings
-Carb rebuild
-Øhlins shock
-Top end job
-Check all bearings (steering, wheel, swingarm)
-Change oil and filters
-New battery (?)
-Check rims for cracks (not likely but they are expensive)
-Adjust ignition and check that advancement works
-Check driveshaft
-Clean and lube starter
-Install fuel filters
-Change oilseals in gearbox (if you are paranoid)
-Cange fork-oil, clean the forks and inspect the bearings
-Install a voltmeter

The shock probably costs more then all the other stuff on the list, so pick a bike with a good shock!


Hmm, a long list but you can do most of the job in two days. I went on a 50kkm trip when my bike had almost 90kkm, check here; http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...long-tour-7818

OOF! Why not just get a japanese bike and not do anything but ride it?
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  #15  
Old 26 Nov 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by petefromberkeley View Post
OOF! Why not just get a japanese bike and not do anything but ride it?
Well, we are talking about a 15 year old bike that should be used for another 70kkm. Most Japanese bikes don’t even last 70kkm wihout serious work
Two days of preparation isn’t that bad, or?

Last edited by AliBaba; 26 Nov 2007 at 21:20.
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