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14 Aug 2011
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Sorry, it's too long ago that I can remember the size and shape of the various bearings and seals on the back end of an Airhead. Attaching the bevelbox back onto the swing arm and lining up the driveshaft was quite easy. I just used a small long screwdriver to line things up before putting the bolts/bearings back in. I suppose an old coathanger would work too.
You don't need a torque wrench. If the book says something like 10nm be very gentle and if it says 100nm you can impress the girls a bit more with your muscles  .
If you can take everything apart, you can take pictures of everything and send them to your friend/post them here for feedback. There are others here, particularly Mark, who has much more recent knowledge (and an Airhead in his garage as we speak). The last time I had the (dis)pleasure   of working on an Airhead was 10 years ago.
cheers
Chris
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14 Aug 2011
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In your first photo there are pieces that look to me like a bearing cup on the UJ. The seals are certainly from the UJ. I would have thought it would be quite easy to see which cup has disintegrated.
Contrary to my previous post about my experience with a shaft failure (we had no debris as in your photos) I would definately not ride any further. Apart from the danger of the wheel locking there is also a risk of causing a lot of other expensive damage
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14 Aug 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zimi
So maybe I can still ride those 3000km to Volgograd, carefully. The thing is there are some pretty bad roads on the way...
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Zimi, I replied to your post also inside the "Northern Asia" section.
As for the part I quoted, I can tell you my fresh news, since I rode this part last month.
The road from Qulsary (where I was stuck with my broken Harley) to Atyrau is fantastic, it's like riding in western Europe, but from Atyrau to the RUS-KZ border is terrible: asphalt but many potholes and veeeery bumpy.
From the border to Astrakhan then Volgograd, it's good and you'll ride there with no problems.
Bye
Nick
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Nick and his 2010 Yamaha XT1200Z Super Ténéré
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14 Aug 2011
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Looking at it again I think all of those parts are from the shaft bearings, the different length parts are from rollers that have broken up.
If you remove the paralever arm, swinging arm and take out the shaft the two parts of the swinging arm should pivot smoothly without and play, a mechanic should be able to check this without taking it apart.
I have just renewed the original set of bearings in mine after 250,000 km so they do last a lot longer than the shafts.
I hope all of this advice is not confusing you too much!
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15 Aug 2011
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Thanks you guys for all your help, you were right, I found a 27mm nut from an US Mongolia Rally team and could dismount this morning. It's one of the shaft bearing that's broken, no other damage.
Have a look at the pictures.
Will first try to see if somebody can fixe it here, and otherwise by bike will have to go on the train or in a truck...
Will give some news
Thanks to everybody for your precious help!
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15 Aug 2011
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Broken needlebearing?!...
That u-joint does not look too happy (pretty)...
Good thing that you opted to take a close look inside the shaft...
I still advocate the usage of hypoid oil in the shaft - in spite of the BMW manual. It will leak a little bit, but that out-weighs the lubrication of the two u-joints on the GS/PD models.
A comment I got from a garage years ago:
"give the u-joints a good squirt of oil every now and then, and they will last".
I use Omega 690 80W/90 GL7.
Magna Industrial Co. Limited
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Drive Safely,
Albert
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15 Aug 2011
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Hello!
So I have some news! Found a replacement part in the market, It's for the stearing wheel of a russian Uaz car, the size is almost identical, it fits. My only concerne is that the part is probably weaker and was not designed to transmit so much torque...
The BMW part is full iron, the Russian part has holes inside for greasing
They welded some washer on each 4 sides, to prevent the bearings to fall out, which is a good idea I think
In the first picture, on the left side is the russian part and on the right side is the BMW part... What do you think, would you drive with this?
Last edited by Zimi; 15 Aug 2011 at 13:44.
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15 Aug 2011
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It certainly looks useable, I would be worried that the spot welds have created tight spots in the bearings but if it runs smoothly it should be ok. I have no idea how you normally ride but I would take it steady, no hard acceleration, keep the speed down to 100 km/h and check how the shaft feels every day before riding, as I have said if it breaks it could lock up the rear wheel.
Certainly quicker and cheaper than waiting for a new shaft so good luck with it.
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15 Aug 2011
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That looks like a good repair in the circumstances. As Mark says don't give it too much stress and you may notice some vibration when travelling at a steady speed on a smooth road due to the UJ not being a 'balanced' item
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15 Aug 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zimi
Hello!
So I have some news! Found a replacement part in the market, It's for the stearing wheel of a russian Uaz car, the size is almost identical, it fits. My only concerne is that the part is probably weaker and was not designed to transmit so much torque...
The BMW part is full iron, the Russian part has holes inside for greasing
They welded some washer on each 4 sides, to prevent the bearings to fall out, which is a good idea I think
In the first picture, on the left side is the russian part and on the right side is the BMW part... What do you think, would you drive with this?
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That's geat news. I would ride it and take the advice by Mark and Charles (Magnon) on board.
Just because it is a Russian part, don't assume it is inferior to something made in Germany. They are as good as each other and arguably the Russian bit is better. Replacement German aftermarket UJs for BMW kardans come with grease nipples. If the originals had them too and you greased them at suitable intervals, aguably (a lot of arguing happening atm :-) ), they would never break.
Ride to arrive: Take it easy on the bike and let us know how it goes.
cheers
Chris
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16 Aug 2011
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Hi Guys,
Ok, I finished remounting the swingarm, the bike is ready. The action is smooth in one way, on the other it's a little harder, but I will probably need to run a little...
Of course I will keep the speed and torque low, because I think thatthe part is not designed to transmit so much torque, compared to the bmw, it's empty inside, the section of the tubes are thinner...
Will give you good news I hope!!
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16 Aug 2011
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Maybe buy 2 or 3 spare UJs as spares?
C
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16 Aug 2011
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Ok, I arrived to Bukhara safely, it was a good test ride 260km, I didnt otice anything special, kept the speed at 80km/h, and the rev under 3500 rpm...
I drove 460km more on terrible roads to Khiva, still going great, and my part has already arrived in Atyrau (3 days only!!!)
Last edited by Zimi; 19 Aug 2011 at 08:08.
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16 Aug 2011
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Fascinated by how your solution is standing up. If it keeps you mobile ,wondeful
[QUOTE=Zimi;345844]Hello!
So I have some news! Found a replacement part in the market, It's for the stearing wheel of a russian Uaz car, the size is almost identical, it fits. My only concerne is that the part is probably weaker and was not designed to transmit so much torque...
Quote
....but the BMW part already broke !
Actually the BMW u joints are junkish and have a history of failure since they are greased for life. Too puny to take all the stress of the double jointed drive shaft They fail not because the retainer caps fall out, they fail because the grease dries up and disappears . Personal experience! New shafts from BMW stock are now so old that grease has already started drying ,giving much shorter service life
If you can get some grease nipples into the Ruski part and make it last till the new replacement arrive it might last longer yet .Do try to get a shaft with grease fittings for the u joints.
Best of luck.
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22 Aug 2011
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Zimi
Im in Atyrau let me know if you need any help with anything when you are in town
Regards
Dansky
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