LED replacement lights - Page 2

**Grant Johnson** · #16 25 Feb 2004

I'm a little confused...

just guessing...

never solder a wire to a terminal on a component. cook the component. Always solder the wire to a connector which snaps onto the component. if that's clear...

Some would argue that crimp AND solder is unnecessary, perhaps even a negative. A good connector with the correct crimping tool correctly wielded is certainly adequate. The UK wire company - address and contact SOMEWHERE on the site - has all you need.

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Grant Johnson

Seek, and ye shall find.
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One world, Two wheels.
www.HorizonsUnlimited.com

**alan hopkins** · #17 25 Feb 2004

Hi Grant

Just to put this one to bed.
you are saying solder thee wire into the crimp female then clip it onto the 'alternator' etc so you can remove it at any time, as is the standard method.

What you are not saying is you literally solder the crimped cable onto the terminal of 'alternator' etc itself so it cannot shake/pull loose to give a clean conductive reliable joint.
ie you would have to cut wire to remove the component.

Only hope my electrical skills proove better than my english skills

thanks again grant

**Grant Johnson** · #18 25 Feb 2004

Quote:

Originally posted by alan hopkins:
Hi Grant

Just to put this one to bed.
you are saying solder the wire into the crimp female then clip it onto the 'alternator' etc so you can remove it at any time, as is the standard method.

Correct.

Quote:

Originally posted by alan hopkins:

What you are not saying is you literally solder the crimped cable onto the terminal of 'alternator' etc itself so it cannot shake/pull loose to give a clean conductive reliable joint. ie you would have to cut wire to remove the component.

Correct. No, it wouldn't shake loose, but it COULD damage the component with excess heat. Also, good terminals DON'T shake loose. And maintenance would be a nightmare.

Quote:

Originally posted by alan hopkins:

Only hope my electrical skills prove better than my english skills

thanks again grant

you're welcome - terminology CAN be a problem.

sorry, couldn't resist that...

**rickx** · #19 26 Feb 2004

Hi, I bought a LED replacement bulb for the rear light on my R1150GSA - more reliable etc.. The only problem is that because of the low resistance the bike thinks the bulb has blown and the dash warning light comes on. This in itself is not a problem except that it is a multi-function warning light and I don't know what happens if another more serious problem develops. I suppose one could splice a resistor somewhere which should alleviate the problem.