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  #1  
Old 25 Apr 2004
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what oil?

hi

just preparing my Hilux 2.4D for transsaharan trip
and wondering what motor oil is most suitable?
now Im running 10W40...
what do you think of using 15W40 or 20W50?
will that increase cooling ability?

cheers
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  #2  
Old 26 Apr 2004
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I use Magnatec 15W40 and change it every 6,000km - the filter as well.

(Edit - sorry - thats for a Land Rover diesel)

[This message has been edited by Runner (edited 26 April 2004).]
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  #3  
Old 29 Apr 2004
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Unless the engine is already pretty worn, I would go with a synthetic oil. It's a LOT more expensive, but it virtually eliminates engine wear.

The wider the viscosity range, the better - other things being equal - so a 5W40 is better than a 15W40. The upper figure (40) is an indicator of the performance of the oil when it is hot, the lower (5) when it's cold.

Thus a 15W50 behaves like a "thin" 15-grade oil when the engine is cold, and like a nice thick 50-grade when it's hot. Since almost all the wear on an engine takes place when it's cold, I believe the lower figure is more important. I would try for a fully synthetic 0W40. In extremely hot conditions, a 5W50 or 10W50 might be just as good, especially if the engine has a high mileage.

Look for an oil with an ACEA B3, B4 or B5 rating, if possible - they are best for light diesels. North African diesel usually has a very high sulphur content (which makes the oil become acidic). Big trucks and earthmoving equipment etc. often work in these conditions, and oils for these applications have an ACEA E3 rating, and are suitable for high sulphur diesel.

There may be others, but Mobil Delvac 1 SHC is an ideal oil - fully synthetic, 0W40, B3 and E3 rated. Only snag is that a 20 litre drum will set you back about 120 quid in the UK!

HTH,

Michael
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  #4  
Old 29 Apr 2004
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Is synthetic oil readily available where you are planning to go? If so - no problem. If not, when you run out of your reserve you'll have to fill it with whatever comes locally. The engine is not going to like it and will need to be flushed before filling with non-synthetic oil. Could be more bother than it's worth.

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  #5  
Old 29 Apr 2004
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Roman,

Is it really necessary to flush the engine when changing from synthetic to non?
I thought (hoped!) the oils would be combatable with each other . . . .

Huey
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Old 29 Apr 2004
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Hello Huey,

Well, things change too fast for me to follow the market to say which different types of engine oils are OK to mix. For the same type of engine oils, the mixing of different brands and qualities is possible. However, you must respect the minimum quality level recommended by the manufacturer.

As a rule of thumb, you are supposed to flush the engine before filling it with synthetic. It is known that the content of mineral oils are different than synthetic oils, and mineral oil soaked gaskets and seals tend to leak when exposed to synthetic oils. So, you need using flushing oil first, before switching to another type.

Like flushing with thinned oil which dissolves and removes all the mineral deposits in the engine, using a thin synthetic oil may also remove these deposits that built-in time and work for sealing the rings and gasgets. It is known that engines over 250,000 km worked without a problem, but when flushed or filled with a thin synthetic oil failed in a month. So choose the oil type at the beginning and better do not change it. Rather, if it’s necessary use different weight in the same type.

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[This message has been edited by Roman (edited 29 April 2004).]
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  #7  
Old 29 Apr 2004
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I thought the flushing was necesary back in the old days when switching from undoped to doped oils. Heard old-timer people talking about this. No problem to mix synthetic, semi-synthetic and mineral oils though, as long as you don't mix them with a 50 year old undoped thing.

On most oil packages it will say 'can be mixed with other oils'.

My theory is that the best oil is the best, but being on an overland trip where temperatures are relatively high, and the engine will be running all day, the difference in engine wear between a 5w-x or a 15w-x will be neglible. Probably you'll have other components bringing an end to the vehicles life anyway.

The morning after a cold night in the dessert you'll appreciate a better specified oil though. Especially when taking of in soft sand and reving the engine before it's really warmed up.

If you're engine is consuming oil, using a x-w50 oil will reduce oil consumption, for the rest, I don't think it's that important...

Rob
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Old 4 May 2004
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As the previous post states, synthetic oil virtually eliminates engine wear! If you intend owning the vehicle for any period of time what more do you need to know?

If you need more convincing read Tom Sheppard on the subject and prepare yourself for a full-on rant!

For the record i have found synthetic oil in Tunisia, Egypt and Morocco.


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Old 4 May 2004
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There is, of course, an argument that suggests you carry spare oil with you, instead of relying on finding decent stuff in-country....
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  #10  
Old 15 May 2004
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thanks for your replys.
As I said at the beggining Im using 10W40 Semisyntetic oil so probably I would not change it to Fully syntetic...
I think that for me the best will be 20W50
Mineral oil.
Maybe you know Midland Micro oil - Performance 20W50 or XHD 20W50 - they have ACEA B3 and E2 rating...
are they gonna be good enough for my 180.000km 2.4Diesel?

cheers
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Old 18 May 2004
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one more thing.
What do you think about Castrol RS 10W60?
its fully syntetic so is that a good choice for my 2.4 Diesel? now Im using Mobil1 10W40.

PeterB
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Old 18 May 2004
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Sounds very impressive. I have amongst other things used Shell Helix Ultra 5W 40 in my Tdi.

As a previous post mentioned if go down the synthetic route you ought to carry some in reserve. I would take enough for one oil change and two litres spare as back-up for between services.

As already mentioned if you want to know more, have a look at Tom Sheppard's "Vehicle Dependent Expedition Guide" you can buy it on amazon. Worth its weight in gold on a huge range of subjects and amongst other things it gives you an insight into how oil categories work. More than enough info for you to bore your friends senseless....
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