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  #1  
Old 8 Sep 2013
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Long Term Storage of Vehicle-Tips Required.

I plan on packing my ' 94 Land Cruiser away for at least a year, but it could be 5.

Does anyone know of any long term storage tips? Or a link to one?

I've heard jacking the vehicle up off the ground to save the suspension, tyres and wheel bearings is a good idea, but are there others that will prevent it from rusting?

Is there anything that I should particularly check before driving it again outside of the obvious oil change/ general maintenance checks?

Any ideas are appreciated.

I have considered selling it, but not really sure I want to do that yet.

Cheers
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  #2  
Old 9 Sep 2013
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Just a few thoughts

I've done more laying up of motorcycles than 4 wheels, but no one else has jumped in here after a day, so ........

What I have done is drain the fuel tank and carburettor and spray the tank internally with WD40 to stop rusting (this would not be too easy with a 4 wheeler of course, so maybe consider filling/brimming the tank to expel air - with diesel hopefully, which is somewhat oily, rather than the more volatile petrol).

Use ACF50 spray on the bits that are liable to corrosion, such as the engine components.

Assuming that it is under a roof for protection from the weather then use a lightweight dust cover (for motorcycles there are "air bags" which envelope the whole bike and then the air is sucked out with a vacuum cleaner, or similar, to provide an airless environment, but I have never heard of these in larger sizes).

Disconnect/remove the battery of course, or have a deal with someone to turn over the engine every now and again including bringing the engine up to working temperature.

Drain the old oil and then refill with brand new oil? (on the basis that the new stuff is less corrosive when standing still).

Regarding your specific idea, I have only ever seen military vehicles blocked up so that the weight is off the tyres; that was intended for the sort of duration that you are considering.

Maybe get the underside waxoyled?

I hope this is of some help.
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  #3  
Old 9 Sep 2013
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Think about vermin! mice and rats. Spray grease stops rust, waxoil or similar inside doors and cavities. I have heard of engines being filled to the top to avoid condensation but I am not sure if that works. make sure you can turn it over a few time before it starts to circulate oil if left at normal levels turning by hand is good. I think a thicker spray than wd40 as it seems to evaporate or dry up. If you can run it every once in awhile it would be better, cars don't like standing.
wax the bodywork heavily.

Graeme
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  #4  
Old 9 Sep 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by graysworld View Post
. I think a thicker spray than wd40 as it seems to evaporate or dry up.

Graeme
I agree with that: WD40 is what I had to hand at the time!

Also, brake fluid crystallises over time; mine did that (over many more than 5 years though).
It is hydroscopic, but I don't know if it is better to leave the fluid in the pipes or drain them off for the long term ???

And, it's a Toyota, so top up the "red-special" coolant - maybe to a stronger solution than the usual 50/50.
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Old 9 Sep 2013
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you can get bags for cars, I think it's called a carcoon
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  #6  
Old 10 Sep 2013
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For the engine internals this maybe a good idea:

AMSOIL Engine Fogging Oil

Plenty of other options available from boat yards or online I'm sure.

You can definitely get fuel preserver for petrol (it does deteriorate over time) but I'm not sure about diesel.

Oh and assuming it's in a relatively small garage a dehumidifier will work wonders.
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  #7  
Old 10 Sep 2013
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One year not too bad 5years nightmare ! The only way is very complicated and will require considerable reactivation work as well . I sold a immaculate discovery that we had from new because it became impossible to maintain it without use , even with keeping in a well ventilated garage, the biggest problem is humidity which leads to rusting , corrosion etc . You would be better lending it to someone you can trust to use it a limited amount . JMHO
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Old 10 Sep 2013
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that's what I did with my Landcruiser, put it in a barn where they store caravans and stuff near my mum and dads. once every 3-4 weeks they would take it out for a drive, a good 10miles+, enough to get everything warmed up.
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Old 11 Sep 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moggy 1968 View Post
that's what I did with my Landcruiser, put it in a barn where they store caravans and stuff near my mum and dads. once every 3-4 weeks they would take it out for a drive, a good 10miles+, enough to get everything warmed up.
+1 and give interior a good clean , so no traces of food to attract mice, also set a few traps , inc under bonnet , as mice can be a real pain , esp when it gets real cold , they will "taste " almost anything to see if its edible !
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Old 14 Sep 2013
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Thanks for all the tips--I really appreciate it.

It's being stored in a (modern) barn with a number of other vehicles, campers and bikes. I had it there for 1.5yrs and it was inside but I have never seen so much rust develop in such a short time. (It is use to being in Australia and never having to deal with the European winters)

Thanks for the carcoon tip...I checked it out and it seems like a possible solution, only not sure I can plug it in to a mains in the barn I'm using.

Will see how it goes......

Thanks again for all the tips.

Cherrs
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  #11  
Old 14 Sep 2013
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I noticed and increased amount of "rust" on my 110 back in uk ,after being in Australia for 15years , think it might be to do with the high iron content of the red dust but it does appear to be very surface type
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Old 4 Dec 2013
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With mine I got my 110 as clean as possible with a powerwasher. Got it warm again (a good dry run), took out all the carpets and mats (where water and moisture could be held against the steel and then coated the whole (underside, in the doors, under the bonnet etc) vehicle with clean engine oil.
I didnt have access to a shed so I kept it in a sunny place, alley way where the wind could blow and allow the rain to dry as quick as possible.

It worked reasonably well last year (when it was stored for a year) apart from I didnt get it clean enough in some places and the wettest year in ages in Ireland.
H
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Old 5 Dec 2013
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Its a pain to do, but when I overhauled the 90's brakes I removed all of the caliper pistons and hoses, cleaned them out, fitted stainless pistons, new seals and used silicone brake fluid which is non hygroscopic, so no problems with corrosion in brakes.
Keeping vehicle on axle stands so the tyres don't flat spot and if vehicle is left out in sun cover tyres with some ply/canvas so sunlight does not degrade the rubber and make them crack - MOT fail.
If properly on axle stands the vehicle can be run in gear occasionally too, as mentioned its better to run them occasionally than to mothball them.
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Old 6 Dec 2013
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or, you could put it in for renovation to the garage that's doing my Landcruiser and 2 1/2 years later it's still there!!
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  #15  
Old 7 Dec 2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moggy 1968 View Post
or, you could put it in for renovation to the garage that's doing my Landcruiser and 2 1/2 years later it's still there!!
what are they doing to it Moggy? replacing one bolt per day
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