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  #1  
Old 8 Nov 2008
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40.10 w engine replacement

Hi all

converting 1993 iveco 4010w driving down to asia not sure about engine.

Contacted Iveco do not supply whole lump only parts? probably because its pre euro etc....

Does anybody know if a later engine would fit, would also like to keep timing chain and maybe upgrade to 2.8.

Or does any body know where i can locate a low mileage lump of same type? or do I just service and hope? Engine has done about 120 k.

any and all advice would be welcome

thanks Mark
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  #2  
Old 8 Nov 2008
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Engine Swop?

Hi Mark,

What makes you think you need to change it? Is it not in very good health? 120K, if that’s genuine and assuming it’s been looked after is nothing.

My preference is to always keep things as standard as possible. If you swop it for a non standard replacement and with an engine of unknown history IMHO that’s asking for hassle.
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  #3  
Old 9 Nov 2008
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I agree with Russ. 120k is just run in.

If you have a non standard engine, it just makes things so much harder if something does go wrong. Most manufacturers use the VIN nowadays to identify what parts are required - if you are in the middle of nowhere with language problems then any parts supplied will probably be for the original engine.

Engine swaps are always twice as expensive as the quotes, its rare that everything "fits" at the first attempt and you end up having to relocate other bits to accomodate a different engine, eg; new engine mounts, clutch lines, brake lines, radiator, heater..........as you move one thing you have to move another. Some can be absolute horrors.

If the engine feels tired then have it thoroughly checked over before you head down the new route. Compression tests, fuel system, timing, etc.
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  #4  
Old 10 Nov 2008
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thanks for the wise words I have a bit f a knocking coming from the bottom end which is a little worrying But I suppose Il never know without a strip down will change the oil etc and generally tested as a first stop

thanks mark
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  #5  
Old 24 Nov 2008
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Keep it (almost) standard

Hi.
There is a 2.8l unit from around the same period, maybe a little more recent. The chain system bolts straight onto it because the block is the same.
However I've heard bad stories about the bored out 2.8 engines; walls too thin, heat too much etc. better stay away.
However if it’s power you’re after there is an intercooler retrofit that goes straight into any Daily. I can’t remember the name but I’m sure google will help. With an intercooler you can up the injection and get a bit more power without danger (I guess it depends how much boost you put in)
More power won’t get you there faster, but it might help in the soft stuff (how much will you really meet?)

You might as well keep it as it is. Dailys are slow; when you’re driving around in Europe, it’s a pain.
Once you’re away from the frenetic “got to be there NOW” western European mentality, and off the main arterial roads, the slowness isn’t a problem.

How long have you had it? They’re bloody clattery, noisy engines anyway; maybe you’re just not used to the racket it makes.
I guess it depends how mechanically confident you are. The owner’s manual shows a great strip down procedure that wouldn’t be too hard to follow, just not in the wild.

Wanting to radically reduce the possibility of engine trouble we had a complete rebuild done before setting off to West Africa.
A superb engine refitting factory near Turin did the whole thing including 24 hours on a test bed for 3000€ cash – no VAT!

What hurt was that while the engine was out it was so much easier to do the little things that niggled (wires rerouted, new fuel hoses, work on the steering rack), that the supplementary labour bill was higher than the engine rebuild! D’oh!

Get a spare set of radiator hoses and clamps before you go, those funny curves are difficult to duplicate with what may be available locally. (not that I’ve heard of anyone having trouble).

When are you off?

Luke
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  #6  
Old 26 Nov 2008
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mine made a right rackett at tick over, I thought it was the flywheel centre bearing. Very cheap but expensive to replace as you have to remove the flywheel with all that entails. replaced the clutch at the same time. it turned out that the idle speed was to low. does your knocking increase with the engines revs?

The keep it standard gets my vote

Graeme
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  #7  
Old 28 Nov 2008
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Keep on rattling

Hi Mark,

I’ve had three of these and they have all sounded like the engine is about to s**t it’s self in a very expensive way, but none of them have. They are a noisy engine which is not helped by the lack of sound proofing as its only on the cab floor and bottom half of the bulkhead that has any. The large thin flattish panels don’t help.


Confidence is not aided by the alarming amount of time it takes for the oil light to go out when starting (1-2 seconds on all three of mine). I’ve now fitted an Accusump for peace of mind and oil pressure before I even turn the key, (Canton Racing Products)

You could try taking it to your local Iveco dealer or commercial workshop and ask them to have a listen. If they have been working on the normal 4x2 Daily’s for years they should be able to tell you if it’s normal ‘diesel clatter’, timing chain or big ends as it’s the same engine with a belt instead of a chain.

Some Iveco dealers will not have seen one of these before (mine hadn’t until I arrived) so be cautious if they say they think it ‘might be’ the timing chain as I believe the chain, tensioner slippers etc are around £500 which is an expensive way to find out it wasn’t that. Usually the timing chain is quirt from cold and rattles more when the engine is hot.

Having said this I think these are a Superbly capable 4x4 van and for my needs I would not have anything else.

Best of luck,

Andy
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  #8  
Old 20 Apr 2009
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adding intercooler to iveco 40-10

Hi all,
I wonder if I could get more precise info about the intercooler fitting kit. I have been extensively and unsuccessfully looking on google. I own an Iveco 40-10 with the 2800 engine and was thinking of this as an improvement, unless someone has suggestions on how to specifically increase power in the low RPM range (1000<>2000) where the need is real especially when fitting 255/100 tyres.
Many thanks to all repliers.

Ciao

Adriano
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  #9  
Old 22 Apr 2009
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Increase engine power, how about adding a little gas.
Gas Tek Global - Diesel Gas Injection Systems

ivanll
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  #10  
Old 22 Apr 2009
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Hi ivan,
wel... I just managed to get rid of the awful (heavy and rusty) big GPL bottle by turning onto diesel heating (webasto). In this way a 3 L bottle lasts for one year only for cooking. How much gpl is needed for the application you are talking?

Thanks for the suggestion anyway

Ciao

Adriano
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  #11  
Old 25 Apr 2009
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Hi what was involved in fitting your accusump

for intercooler fitting info go to B90 Story and look in the forum section

mark

p.s be great if we could put new subjects under new thread headings that way it becomes easier to find
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  #12  
Old 25 Apr 2009
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Word of caution the 2.5 block fitted with a belt is not the same as the chain driven engine,the crank& block are different.The crank is longer to allow for the chain gear & the block has no pre drilled oil way for the tensioner.Best repair the old one if you want to keep the chain they all rattle a bit when warm & if poss fit a manual tensioner.
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