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Equipping the Overland Vehicle Vehicle accessories - Making your home away from home comfortable, safe and reliable.
Photo by George Guille, It's going to be a long 300km... Bolivian Amazon

I haven't been everywhere...
but it's on my list!


Photo by George Guille
It's going to be a long 300km...
Bolivian Amazon



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  #1  
Old 3 Jan 2006
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200 TDI suggestions
For better or worse, my reliable old slug 2.5 n/a is being replaced by a 200 tdi next week.

The tdi is of unknown milage and age, but comes from a previous supplier of good quality 2nd hand engines and the garage I'm using are offering a one year warranty with it. I trust them etc.

We are going to change the timing belt and give it a good service.

Just wondering if anybody can suggest some things to check and change on the engine before it goes in? I don't know anything about tdi's.

As an example, the old 2.5 n/a had it's rear main oil seal leak, as well as the front one into the timing belt chamber just after I purchased it. Does a tdi have these and do they leak very often?

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[This message has been edited by dj@roamingyak.org (edited 03 January 2006).]
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  #2  
Old 4 Jan 2006
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Once you get it running I would add some injector cleaner to the fuel. On my own 300 tdi it makes a very noticeable and measurable difference to the power and economy. Any brand seems ok but Millers works out the most economical imho (lasts for several tank fulls rather than 1 or 2 tank fulls per bottle). Then you need to repeat the process every 3 months or so to keep the injector spray pattern tidy and unclogged. Well worth it.

Maybe also use flushing oil before an oil change and consider using synthetic for a longer engine life ???

Andrew.
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  #3  
Old 5 Jan 2006
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If you're unsure of the milage, then possibly a new set of injectors. i changed them on my 300 and it made the world of differece.
You're already doing the cambelt, which is good, but also i'd change the idlers that the belt runs on... i've had a couple let go in the past (the bearings break up)

Rear oil seal whilst it's out, and also the seals on the front of the crank (inside the cam-belt chamber)

Other than that, once it's running you should see any other leaks that occur. you may have hassle with the fuel lift pump, but thats only a 10 minute job to change.
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  #4  
Old 30 Mar 2006
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Hi - You must check that they have replaced the timing belt. Every 60k miles it must be replaced, as it is a rubber belt rather than a timing chain in most engines, and does wear out. Mine broke, but I was v v lucky as I was just idling, and not much broke in the engine. It was more expensive than replacing the timing belt!
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  #5  
Old 30 Mar 2006
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Definitely consider an aftermarket intercooler.

The pro's and con's have been debated ad nauseum but on balance I think most owners love them.

The largest ones seem like overkill, but the straight swop variety make an enormous difference and really seem to de-stress the TDi when used with a light foot whilst giving impressive grunt when required. Get silicon hoses as the rubber OE aren't up to the job.
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Old 30 Mar 2006
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Don't put synthetic oil in an engine that is used to mineral oil, just use a good mineral oil. this was discussed in detail in a previous posts and it seems there are problems with suddenly switching to a synthetic oil on an older engine

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Old 31 Mar 2006
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I've got a 300TDi in my '83 Rangie and before it went in the following were changed;

Head gasket
Timing belt & tensioner & idle bearing (they do go)
Front & rear crank oil seals

Ok, it's a 300 not a 200 but the same applies. It's far easier to do on the bench than in the engine bay.

Ben
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  #8  
Old 10 Apr 2006
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timing belt - if its not 100% certain that its been done, do it anyway.
the intercooler - the people who I know that have it fitted really like it. Agreed the smaller one is the way to go. Will almost certainly fit one to my 200Tdi, although it goes faster than a lot of TD5s for some reason.

Not sure I agree about the synthetic oil. When I bought mine with 120k kms it already had synth, still does and runs really well.Change every 5k kms.
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