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Yamaha Tech Originally the Yamaha XT600 Tech Forum, due to demand it now includes all Yamaha's technical / mechanical / repair / preparation questions.
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  #1  
Old 22 Oct 2007
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Wink XT 600 e Kick Start

Hi anyone got any info on fitting a Kick start to the XT, 1998 model. Cheers
Is it a good idea or an unessasary expense.
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  #2  
Old 24 Oct 2007
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kickstart

Hi,

My tuppenceworth,

I got a kickstart fitted to a 2001 XT600e by Dave Lambeth. Very expensive and never had to use it in anger on my trip.

Save your cash for traveling, buy a new battery and take a set of improvised jump leads.

Hope this helps.
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  #3  
Old 1 Nov 2007
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Thumbs up Cheers

Thanks for that, this site is great for info like yours that could take years to get by word of mouth. I shall save me coppers and go for the new battery and jump lead option.

Stu
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  #4  
Old 18 Apr 2008
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It's easy to fit the kickstart on the XT600E and it was the first engine work I'd done on my 1990 XT600E.

Check this 1989 XT600 microfiche that I guided myself on...

here are the parts I fitted on mine:

http://www.powerpartsplus.com/pages/...600W_-_1989%29
Here on the "Crankcase cover" page you need to get part 28

http://www.powerpartsplus.com/pages/...600W_-_1989%29
Here on the "Starter" page you need to get all those parts except the for the parts form 27 to 34.....

A good thing you can do is search for a kickstart shaft on eBay and get just these parts from the "Starter" page:

9,10,11,12,13,14,15,16,17,18,19 AND get a complete kickstart+boss kick crank....(I think I got my kickstart+boss kick crack from a XJ 650)

That setup doesn't include decompressor! but if ya want decompressor, just ask...


Vando

Last edited by bacardi23; 11 Oct 2012 at 03:51. Reason: added link
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  #5  
Old 21 Apr 2008
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Decompressor

Hi Vando, Would appreciate if you can post the information on installing the decompressor. Thanks. Cheers, Tom.
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  #6  
Old 21 Apr 2008
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Hi Tom... I prefer the manual decompresser because it is the most simple, easiest and cheapest to put and looks good in my opinion...

so...Question is, manual or automatic?

Vando
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  #7  
Old 21 Apr 2008
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Manual Decompressor

Hi Vando, I would prefer the manual decompressor. I'm kinda old fashion still! Thanks. Cheers, Tom.
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Old 22 Apr 2008
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Hi tom.....

http://www.powerpartsplus.com/pages/...600W_-_1989%29
Here on the page of the Cylinder head you have to get the parts 28,29,30,31 and 32.

On the page "Camshaft Chain" you need to get the part number 12 or you can make your own cable bracket(holder)...

Besides that, you'll have to get a small bicycle-type of lever (the left lever with the bracket) that will fit securely on your handlebar, a cable with those things to put on the end to "close" the cable at the length you want AND one of those bicycle outer cable guides ( which the cable goes in )....

To put in the part number 28 on the cylinder head you can CAREFULLY punch a hole in that small black cap... I MEAN CAREFULLY so nothing falls into the cylinder and just pull the cap off...

You can lean the bike to it's side to help avoid anything falling into the cylinder....


DON'T FORGET to clean the hole without the cap or any small particle that fall into the cylinder will almost certainly damage the cylinder sleeve!

Vando

Last edited by bacardi23; 11 Oct 2012 at 03:54.
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Old 22 Apr 2008
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To put the part number 17 of the Starter page you will have to take the clutch out.....

After you take the clutch springs and that plate out you will see a weird shape nut. Try not to mess around with it...
When you take that weird shape nut, you can see the axle is "hallow"(don't know how if it is written like that) and there is a small metal ball in the axle, DO NOT LOSE IT..

Take the clutch plates out but don't loose the order of the because two of them are different and only fit in that specific order!


To take the clutch boss out you will need one of those air guns so you can take the lock nut from the inside.... but take a look before taking that nut out because it has a special spacer that helps hold the nut so it won't vibrate loose... it's easy! also, check the workshop manual for the XT600E so you know how tight you'll have to lock the nut back in on reassembling...

As for the clutch springs, be careful when you tighten them back on because if you over tighten it, the boss hub might brake ( it happened to me because I didn't have the workshop manual back then).....

Vando
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  #10  
Old 22 Apr 2008
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Thanks

Hi Vando, thanks for the information. Looks like a pretty big job. May not fit the decompressor if I can kick start it. I am trying to source out the parts now. Thanks. Cheers. Tom.
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  #11  
Old 22 Apr 2008
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Hi tom... The decompresser looks good on the bike and is quite simple to do in my opinion... I don't need the decompresser because I can kick it with no hassle so it would be just something to do in the future because now I'm doing some things on the bike....

Vando
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  #12  
Old 23 Apr 2008
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Decompressor

Thanks Vando. I may as well get the parts and if it is not too big a job, I will go ahead with the decompressor when I am at the kickstart installation. Cheers, Tom.
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  #13  
Old 26 Jan 2010
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Im going to bring this one back from the dead.

Ive just acquired an 84 XT600 for parts and i would like to add the kick starter to my 90 XT600E. The engine from the 84 is dead, sat outside for years without a sparkplug. Im going to be pulling my 90's engine apart soon to do the clutch and want to add the kick starter.
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  #14  
Old 26 Jan 2010
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Info for you... The 2001-2005 Yamaha Raptor 660 ATV clutch kit is the same as for the 1990 XT600E.

I actually bought a Tusk clutch kit shipped for my '90 XT600E yesterday for 49.85USD on fleabay!


Vando
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  #15  
Old 26 Jan 2010
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If the bike is 1998 the clutch arm is probably on the top of the clutch cover, that makes it a much harder job, I've just done my 1999/2000, on the older models you can fit an earlier clutch cover with the shaft hole already machined out behind a rubber plug but the earlier cover won't have the clutch operating arm fitted, you will need to machine the hole out yourself, the boss is cast into the inside and fairly accurate to centre up on a mill, once a small hole is drilled through you can turn the whole casting over and re-center from the outside and finish the shaft bore and oil seal recess.
I have a spare kickshaft and idler gear but no return spring, also a couple of shims are required as well as the guide and stopper plate but they are surprisingly cheap to buy new.
I think a manual decompressor would be easy to do on the head with a well shaped piece of 12mm bar and return spring, I'll tell you when I've finished mine.
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