Roads to Van, Turkey
I noticed that Jason's advice above about the roads to Van being closed, has just been circulated in this month's ezine, so I thought I'd better point out that this is out of date. They are all now open!
I went about two weeks ago, on a return trip from Dogubayazit (sadly not by bike since my Enfield has died), and had no problems getting through the check points. No other foreigners there at the time, as I was told is still the case by a couple of Germans who had taken the Tatvan-Van ferry a few days ago. Van Castle and the Lake are great, so go there if you're in the area!