Go Back   Horizons Unlimited - The HUBB > Technical, Bike forums > BMW Tech

BMW Tech BMW Tech Forum - For Questions specific and of interest to BMW riders only. Questions comparing which bike is best etc go in the "Which Bike" forum.
Contact Overland Solutions for all your custom modifications and setup for overland travel.

7 Litre Camel Tank Lets You Explore More, Click to Find out More!

Like Tree2Likes

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 30 Dec 2010
The Raven's Avatar
Gold Member
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: liberty, Maine
Posts: 154
R80g/s buildup

Hey everyone,
I'm currently in the process of building up my 81 R80G/S. It is currently stock and I wish to build it in such a way that down not modify the OE components, so that should I ever wish to return it so I will be able to with an afternoon and some grape or barley therapy. I would really appreciate your input, and suggestions.
__________________
I'm Raven, a forever banished exile from ADV,

Check out our blog at
www.nomapnomads.com

Last edited by The Raven; 2 Jan 2011 at 22:09.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 30 Dec 2010
The Raven's Avatar
Gold Member
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: liberty, Maine
Posts: 154
I've been reading the threads lately about guys who have done different modifications to thier bikes. About this time last year I was spamming the internet trying to find a G/S. I had found two, one fell through but I think my enthusiasm made the owner love it. The other I got and became good friends with the PO. I ended up getting it in NM, blowing the charging system and rear main seal and had to fix it on the go with no clue how to do it.

Well, I'm looking to get a new bike again...this time not in NM, CA or Germany, but in my 16x20 shed that's in the woods. That's right, my own G/S. I want to mod it and make it suitable for overland travel.

_____________________________________
The list vendors used, services performed and prices paid. Information I find valuable so I hope others would too.

Max BMW, New Hampshire

Woody's Wheel Works, Denver CO

Powder Plus, Bangor ME

Motorrad Elektrik, Good guy and has helped me out a jam before


Ebay, Advrider classifieds, IBMWR classifieds, HUBB classifieds
-Fairing@ADV-$75
-BMW accessory outlet kit@eBay-$35
Corbin Seat-single@ IBMWR classifieds-$175
R100GS forks/tree/axle/spacers@ IBMWR classifieds-$400
R100GS fender@IBMWR classifieds-$60
ME Omega 450w@Ebay-$400
R100GS subframe @IBMWR -$250

The restoration begins :evil;

Currently seeking list:
-Fork seals
-R1150RTP switch holder with early K heated grip switch
-Hot Grips
-A set of good (small) aux lights
-Ignition Euro spec light switch and left hand switch housing
-front section of the headlight pod
-Touratech Rear carriers
-upgraded brake caliper....R1100gs twin pot conversion
-SS brake lines to match with caliper*
-R100gspd or R100GS skid plate
-R100GSPD air dam
-R100GS front wheel


The Plan:
-remove front cover, starter box, air-box and battery box (1 hour)---Take to have coated-$75
-Remove front fender, side covers and keep with tank for later painting.
-Remove front and rear wheel
-remove handlebars, and other items including pod for cleanup.--Send for coating
-replace worn switchgears with euro spec
-Replace ignition with eurospec
-Upgrade charging with enduralast or Omega
-General degreasing and cleanup throughout
-Replace all connectors to Amp Superseal
-Run three dedicated #4 grounding wires, all from the battery (-) to rear of diodeboard, frame ground and tranny' lower left mounting bolt
-Install inline deadmans switch on battery to kill any parasitic drain on extended shutdown and for security
-Fix stripped FD drain plug
-Fix leaking brake lever on FD
More to come


Before Photos


Left side


Right side


Oil stained FD...brake lever and Drain


Oil wet from RMS or oil pump. Not sure what to make of it. Both are new, and it gets like that every 1-2 k miles? Thoughts?


Rims are only dirty, even the spokes are rust free. Will only polish them to a shine, not send off for upgrade as I do not see the point.

Front even has the sticker intact


Find a better, more professional way of mounting the shock reservoir, pull the god awful R100gs racks and the redneck rear hoop


Pull and powdercoat, install bash plate


Hot Grips and new switchgear to clean up the fading, may change out guards to black

__________________
I'm Raven, a forever banished exile from ADV,

Check out our blog at
www.nomapnomads.com

Last edited by The Raven; 2 Jan 2011 at 22:10.
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 30 Dec 2010
The Raven's Avatar
Gold Member
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: liberty, Maine
Posts: 154
Latest update 12/30/10
I managed to score some R100 forks, fender and brake





Now I need to find a wheel and figure out how to turn the forks black...
__________________
I'm Raven, a forever banished exile from ADV,

Check out our blog at
www.nomapnomads.com

Last edited by The Raven; 31 Dec 2010 at 00:06.
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 30 Dec 2010
Ekke's Avatar
HU CanWest Meeting Organiser
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Redwood Meadows, AB, Canada
Posts: 360
Looking forward to the build thread Shadow Raven...
__________________
Ekke Kok

'84 R100RT 141,000 km (Dad's!)
'89 R100GS 250,000 km (and ready for another continent)
'07 R1200GS Adventure 100,000 km (just finished Circumnavigating Asia)


www.ekke-audrey.ca
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 31 Dec 2010
The Raven's Avatar
Gold Member
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: liberty, Maine
Posts: 154
12/31/10 update:

Spent the day pulling stuff off of the r80g/s subframe, pulling the exhaust, and removing the shock for reconditioning by Works Performance.

Per the Recommendation of Greg Hutchinson I am having the Res line extended to 24" and terminated at a 90 degree for mounting under the R100gs subframe

__________________
I'm Raven, a forever banished exile from ADV,

Check out our blog at
www.nomapnomads.com
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 1 Jan 2011
The Raven's Avatar
Gold Member
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: liberty, Maine
Posts: 154
1/1/11 Update

Scored a Omega 450 kit on Ebay...$400!!!

Spent this afternoon:

Pulling the carbs:
They need some serious cleaning, degreasing and polishing.
Can I just remove the diaphragm and bowl then drop them in carb cleaner? Will that kill the o-rings?

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_xRqdeMG80P4/TR...0/IMG_0088.JPG

Removed the emissions lines (very easily), what plugs do I need to close those holes?

Pulled the airbox, opened the starter cover, and alt cover to gain access.



Planning on pulling the swingarm and trans to replace the clutch as it grabs when hot :becca. I may send it to Anton to get updated.

I want to send the timing cover for powdercoating but I'm uncomfortable with the timing situation. Can I just pull the beancan and replace it in a close position when replacing? If I replace the timing chain/sprockets is it fairly straightforward with markings etc etc?


Went and removed the shifter lever and realized that it had been broken off at one point and rewelded :eek1....will be replacing with a new one.


One last question;
Has anyone used this stuff?
__________________
I'm Raven, a forever banished exile from ADV,

Check out our blog at
www.nomapnomads.com

Last edited by The Raven; 2 Jan 2011 at 00:05.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 2 Jan 2011
The Raven's Avatar
Gold Member
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: liberty, Maine
Posts: 154
Wish there were more comments. I like to hear others thoughts....
__________________
I'm Raven, a forever banished exile from ADV,

Check out our blog at
www.nomapnomads.com
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 2 Jan 2011
Registered Users
HUBB regular
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 27
Shadowraven, you have taken the front casing off, I hope the battery was disconnected and stays disconnected when you refit the case, if you short out that diode board ( and it is easy to do, believe me......)

then your alternator will not charge.

just sayin..............



oh and you may want to check the condition of the connections on the fuse-box. now is a GOOD time to upgrade to resettable breakers, expensive, yes, but much easier than buggering about with fuses.
__________________
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 2 Jan 2011
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Stockholm - Sweden
Posts: 316
Tried to comment - >½ of my replies were not encluded...

Your overhaul is well thought through.
There are more that you could do to the frame and stands.

Have a look on these photos of my overhauls/tunings:
Engine heater:
www.webstruktur.com/svea/board/messages/5/103.html?torsdagden18november19992306

Alternator:
www.webstruktur.com/svea/board/artik/bilgen.html

www.webstruktur.com/svea/board/artik/mont_bilgen.html

Carburetor gooey solution:
www.webstruktur.com/svea/board/artik/carb.html
Click on the link "Nästa Sida" (next page), or copy and past the adress.
__________________
Drive Safely,
Albert
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 2 Jan 2011
Redboots's Avatar
Contributing Member
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: On the border - NE FR
Posts: 841
From your photos, you need a new front break rotor. Bin that caliper and get a four pot unit and make up a mount from 10mm alloy plate.

Get your starter checke for the glue holding the magnets in... or buy a Bosch or Nippon Denso unit.

Whats the "metal wax" for... polishing? If its the carbs you want to clean, ultrasound is the way to do it.

Beers,
John
__________________
Nostradamus Ate My Hamster
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 2 Jan 2011
The Raven's Avatar
Gold Member
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: liberty, Maine
Posts: 154
Quote:
Originally Posted by Redboots View Post
From your photos, you need a new front break rotor. Bin that caliper and get a four pot unit and make up a mount from 10mm alloy plate.

Get your starter checke for the glue holding the magnets in... or buy a Bosch or Nippon Denso unit.

Whats the "metal wax" for... polishing? If its the carbs you want to clean, ultrasound is the way to do it.

Beers,
John
Thanks for the comments, It's always useful to get input from guys who travel and know the mods that work.

I picked up a r100gs fork set for it and I am trying to find a r100gs wheel which will come with a new rotor. I will be dropping a caliper from a R1100GS oilhead on the R100 forks.

The metal wax is to just remove the surface corrosion that is evident throughout and protect it from further cosmetic issues....I want a pretty bike too...at least to start

So I continue:
1/2/11 update

This morning was spent writing articles to pay for the afternoons fun

I bought a cool parts cleaner called chem-dip (cancer in a can?) To help with the degreasing. Seems to work well. I took the adjustable shift linkage that was all greasy, shaft rusted and frozen and between the dip, a stainless steel brillo pad thing and that metal wax I was able to bring it back to new.

I started to work on the carbs but the cap screws were all screwed up. I was able to pull one, but the other was going to strip. I deep creeped it and hit the second carb preemptively. I'll let it soak for an day and try again tomorrow

I also disassembled the clutch assembly and soaked/cleaned that stuff. This got me thinking. Due to the upgrades i've already bought there is no way in hell I am going to be able to afford to do a pro level restoration. I would like to at least paint the nicks and such, but really don't want to do an ass job of it. I am planning to powdercoating the big bits but the small intricate stuff I imagine will be too labor intensive?

How do you guys suggest painting the clutch and throttle assemblies, and anything else that needs touched up?

From here I pulled the throttle assembly and the old nasty brake line that was falling apart in my hands . Did someone say stainless replacement?
I gave the handbar a quick cleaning and will be removing it tomorrow to transfer to the powdercoat box

Dog was cold again so trekked back to the Yurt. Thank god the buddy heater 2 is coming this week. I hate to say it though; the shed is better set up than my garage EVER was.
__________________
I'm Raven, a forever banished exile from ADV,

Check out our blog at
www.nomapnomads.com

Last edited by The Raven; 2 Jan 2011 at 22:14.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 2 Jan 2011
The Raven's Avatar
Gold Member
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: liberty, Maine
Posts: 154
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martyn Tilley View Post
Shadowraven, you have taken the front casing off, I hope the battery was disconnected and stays disconnected when you refit the case, if you short out that diode board ( and it is easy to do, believe me......)

then your alternator will not charge.

just sayin..............



oh and you may want to check the condition of the connections on the fuse-box. now is a GOOD time to upgrade to resettable breakers, expensive, yes, but much easier than buggering about with fuses.
Martyn,
Thank you for the advice. Yeah the battery was number 3 thing removed following the seat and tool box. You mention the resettable breakers. Please elaborate. I'm quite interested in the modification.
Adam
__________________
I'm Raven, a forever banished exile from ADV,

Check out our blog at
www.nomapnomads.com
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 3 Jan 2011
AliBaba's Avatar
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Norway
Posts: 1,350
Nice, we don't see many build-threads here.

Quote:
Originally Posted by shadowraven View Post
Oil wet from RMS or oil pump. Not sure what to make of it. Both are new, and it gets like that every 1-2 k miles? Thoughts?
You are sure it's from the engine and not from the gearbox?
Beside the seals itself there are a few possibilities:

Oil-pump cover:
It should be perfectly straight. Put it on something completely flat (glass) to check.

RMS:
RealOEM.com � BMW 47E3 R 80 GS CRANKSHAFT/CONNECTING ROD/MOUNTING PARTS
Is #5 in good condition? Have you replaced the o-ring (#6)?

Engine case:
It's extremely rare but they do crack. Check it carefully.

Quote:
Originally Posted by shadowraven View Post
Can I just pull the beancan and replace it in a close position when replacing?
I usually mark the position, it's good enough to get the engine started. When the engine is running I use a timing-gun.

Quote:
Originally Posted by shadowraven View Post
If I replace the timing chain/sprockets is it fairly straightforward with markings etc etc?
Yes, it's marks on the sprockets so it's pretty easy. It's rarely necessary to replace the sprockets, most people change the chain, guide and tensioner.
If you decide to change the sprockets you might find the upper one hard to remove, the lower is easier but you need to remove the camshaft.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by shadowraven View Post
Run three dedicated #4 grounding wires, all from the battery (-) to rear of diodeboard, frame ground and tranny' lower left mounting bolt
I see your point but I wouldn't have done it this way. It's a hassle to install the cables and you introduce several weak points. A vehicle should have only one main-ground connected to the battery.
I can write more about this but by introducing several ground-conditions you increase the chance of fires, periodical problems, burned components and problems with charging and you get a system which is hard to repair.

Basically you want your ground-cable to be short and fat, personally I have it fixed to the lower left mounting bolt but the original position is better because it reduces cable-length.

There are a few things that can be done to improve the original setup but (beside the rotor) BMW did a great job designing this.


Quote:
Originally Posted by shadowraven View Post
Install inline deadmans switch on battery to kill any parasitic drain on extended shutdown and for security
Again I see your point but it's difficult to do this without introducing voltage-drops to the system. Voltage drops leads to hard starting and charging-problems.
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 3 Jan 2011
The Raven's Avatar
Gold Member
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: liberty, Maine
Posts: 154
Alibaba,
I see the thinking..basically its a matter of KISS (Keep it simple stupid). Don't add anything that unnecessary and keep it all low tech and BMW originally designed.

To address the points you brought up,

The oil leakage:
I did have to replace the RMS, flywheel ring and oil pump cover this past spring, I may have screwed something up, I know I did not torque the oil cover bolts as I did not have a consensus on the values. I will check once I get the trans off. The leakage you see there is about 1000mi worth in hot temps, not a major leak, but a leak just the same.

Timing chain:
I guess I'll do what the consensus does and just do the chain, guide and tensioner. No sense messing with what works.

Electrics:
I guess I'll make sure to limit the runs of wire. I have heard to make sure the timing cover has good contact with the case too.

Disconnect:
I plan on using marine grade stuff for this. It may introduce future issues, but the added security is well worth it to me
__________________
I'm Raven, a forever banished exile from ADV,

Check out our blog at
www.nomapnomads.com
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 3 Jan 2011
The Raven's Avatar
Gold Member
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: liberty, Maine
Posts: 154
1/3/11 update

Today I spent further pulling stuff from the bike. I am going away for a couple weeks in Feb so want to have it ready for the powder coaters so it'll be ready for reassembly when I return.

Holding off on the handlebars till the end. I'm actually balancing the bike part removal process front to back and vice versa. Should I pull too much off of each end the bike would tilt off of the lift.


Trying to decide if I want to aluminum coat the covers, I took mine and hit it with the metal wax today. Worst I can say is that the oxidation that came off got imbedded into the metal and slightly darkened it. Doen not look too bad though. I may save myself 30-40 bucks and just leave it as is.


Pulled the bean can and the charging system except for the rotor....waiting on the tool. Very dirty in there, and there was a combination of rocks, spiders and other nasty things



Take a look at the rotor in the last photo...looks melted doesn't it???
Some closer photos. Anyone have any ideas, nothing else is melted. I'm guessing it's where the wires come down from the slip rings.



The dirty beancan, marked throughly to aid in replacement.


The next project is to rip into this. What are my upgrade options here...especially if I go to a R1100 caliper


The box of replacements and extras is getting bigger
__________________
I'm Raven, a forever banished exile from ADV,

Check out our blog at
www.nomapnomads.com
Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 Registered Users and/or Members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Mitsubishi Canter/FG 140 4x4 buildup Douglas Hackney 4WD Overland Tech 15 26 Jul 2007 01:14
R80G/S Disc Bradd BMW Tech 1 25 Oct 2005 01:07
Buying a R80G/S Bradd BMW Tech 5 1 Jun 2005 16:22
R80G/S speedo ?? Cameron BMW Tech 6 29 Jun 2004 05:58
R80G/S tyres bryan Sahara Travel Forum 5 23 Jan 2002 13:07

 
 


HU DVD Summer Special!

Now that summer is here, get On the Road! Take 30% off the Achievable Dream - On the Road! 2-DVD set until August 31 only. Get On the Road! Learn the tips to staying healthy, happy and secure on your motorcycle adventure!

Our veteran travellers share their tips (and great stories) for staying healthy, happy and secure on your motorcycle adventure.

"A fantastic, informative and inspirational DVD."

"It's brilliant - thank you very much!"

Check it out at the HU Store! Remember to use Coupon Code 'ONTHEROAD' on your order when you checkout.


Renedian Adventures


Renedian Adventures

What others say about HU...

"I just wanted to say thanks for doing this and sharing so much with the rest of us." Dave, USA

"Your website is a mecca of valuable information and the DVD series is informative, entertaining, and inspiring! The new look of the website is very impressive, updated and catchy. Thank you so very much!" Jennifer, Canada

"...Great site. Keep up the good work." Murray and Carmen, Australia

"We just finished a 7 month 22,000+ mile scouting trip from Alaska to the bottom of Chile and I can't tell you how many times we referred to your site for help. From how to adjust your valves, to where to stay in the back country of Peru. Horizons Unlimited was a key player in our success. Motorcycle enthusiasts from around the world are in debt to your services." Alaska Riders

contest pic

10th Annual HU Travellers Photo Contest is on now! This is an opportunity for YOU to show us your best photos and win prizes!

NEW! HU 2014 Adventure Travel T-shirts! are now available in several colors! Be the first kid on your block to have them! New lower prices on synths!

HU 2014 T-shirts now in!

Check out the new Gildan Performance cotton-feel t-shirt - 100% poly, feels like soft cotton!


What turns you on to motorcycle travel?


Global Rescue, WORLDwide evacuation services for EVERYONE

Global Rescue is the premier provider of medical, security and evacuation services worldwide and is the only company that will come to you, wherever you are, and evacuate you to your home hospital of choice. Additionally, Global Rescue places no restrictions on country of citizenship - all nationalities are eligible to sign-up!


New to Horizons Unlimited?

New to motorcycle travelling? New to the HU site? Confused? Too many options? It's really very simple - just 4 easy steps!

Horizons Unlimited was founded in 1997 by Grant and Susan Johnson following their journey around the world on a BMW R80 G/S motorcycle.

Susan and Grant Johnson Read more about Grant & Susan's story

Membership - help keep us going!

Horizons Unlimited is not a big multi-national company, just two people who love motorcycle travel and have grown what started as a hobby in 1997 into a full time job (usually 8-10 hours per day and 7 days a week) and a labour of love. To keep it going and a roof over our heads, we run events (22 this year!); we sell inspirational and informative DVDs; we have a few selected advertisers; and we make a small amount from memberships.

You don't have to be a Member to come to an HU meeting, access the website, the HUBB or to receive the e-zine. What you get for your membership contribution is our sincere gratitude, good karma and knowing that you're helping to keep the motorcycle travel dream alive. Contributing Members and Gold Members do get additional features on the HUBB. Here's a list of all the Member benefits on the HUBB.


Books & DVDs

amazon

All the best travel books and videos listed and often reviewed on HU's famous Books page. Check it out and get great travel books from all over the world.


Motorcycle Express for shipping and insurance!

Motorcycle Express

MC Air Shipping, (uncrated) USA / Canada / Europe and other areas. Be sure to say "Horizons Unlimited" to get your $25 discount on Shipping!
Insurance - see: For foreigners traveling in US and Canada and for Americans and Canadians traveling in other countries, then mail it to MC Express and get your HU $15 discount!




All times are GMT +1. The time now is 06:17.