Ok I am a beginner. Don't know anything about Jap bikes.

I want to buy a bike and modify it for long distance on and off solo riding.
I want a light, strong, durable bike. Parts easy to find around globe and easy to fix and maintain.
Not much electronics please.

KTM and F650 is out of the list, KLR too.

Shortlist is:
1. XT600
2. DR 650
3. DRZ 400
4. XR650R

I would like to hear comments and experiences for the bikes, especially at remote riding (Mongolia, Russian steps etc).

Do you think DRZ 400 is capable for long distance riding, even for RTW?

Can you add recommended modifications shortly who has experience with!

Possibly will go for a second hand bike which is 4-8 yrs old.
Appreciate your comments.

Thanks a lot...

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"where the traveller goes, nobody knows ! "

I have not ridden any of these, but I would say, any of the first 3 would do fine. The XR650 belongs in a padded cell, I'm told. Plus the "R" does not have lecky start, where as the "L" does.

The 600 and 650s will, as expected have more torque and power, so a high top speed/cruising speed etc. They will be heavier, (expect about 30kgs more that the 400), but that does not make them heavy... IYKWIM. They should also carry luggage a bit better, IMO.

The 400 will be lighter on power etc, but, in its favour, will also be lighter in weight and fuel consumption.

I don't think any would need huge work to make them good overlanders. Perhaps only bigger tanks, and perhaps upped headlights if they do not run 55-60w H4s. If you want GPS, Heated grips and heated jackets etc, then perhaps an upgraded alternator may be in order to boost the Wattage output. This is not a definite. If the stator makes about 300W or more, You could be fine.

Pluses and minuses aside this is a throttle you will be twisting and a saddle you'll be sitting on for many many miles, so rather than deciding on spec, find some, and test ride them. Its the best way to know which suit you best...

I love shopping for bikes.....NEW TOY, NEW TOY!!

Hi Samy! Check out http://www.paochow.com/DRZguide/DRZadv.php for drz info - but these bikes are equipped with a thin saddle (as are XR650r's) due to them being originally designed as a racebike. Super-reliable, apparently, if kept stock engine-wise. I have a late-model XT600e and it's reliable but they do have little faults which keep you getting the tools out - it's never failed me though. The Xr is a very tall bike, mind, so you might take that into account. Are you tall?

I have DR-Z400S. Nice bike for slow going on backroads but not enjoyable at highway speeds. Also, rear subframe (aluminium) is not as strong as on bigger bikes, so soft luggage is preferred and capacity limited. If you like going slow on small roads then it is a nice bike. I have 28l Aqualine tank, it gives 500-600km range.

The DR650 gets my enthusiastic vote. I have 16000 miles on mine now, 12000 of those miles thru Africa, virtually problem free. It's a very strong and durable bike.

The DR650 is light and agile enough to get you thru the worst terrain of Mongolia, the Russian steppes, what have you.

The DRZ 400 is too small for comfortable long distance travel IMHO. Sure it can be done, but it's whiny and you will not be a happy rider on long stretches of pavement. The payoff on rough stuff is nominal.

The XT600 -- I rode one briefly, and IMHO the DR650 beats it hands down.

Sounds like you've ruled out the KLR ... not a bad bike IMHO. If I had to rank for international adv riding I would say DR, KLR, XT in that order. Good luck & happy hunting.

I agree with Mark. (Howdy Mark! .... good to see you posting here!)

It looks like DR650 win over XT600.

I am amazed. If we listen Chrsi Scott XT600 is far the best machine to ride in African dunes !

I knew that XT is an undestructible bike especially in hot weather !

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"where the traveller goes, nobody knows ! "

You forgot one bike off that list...

The Yamaha TT600R Belguarda the RE isn't as good heavier as its made from steel and it also has more weight due to leccy start and inferior suspension to the R version.

In that its an XT600E engine put in an alloy frame, with adjustable suspension all round (Ohlins) , with a slightly different twin carb setup , and a front brembo brake as stock. weighs 140kilos dry and 159kilos wet. But its kick only the RE has electric start and the lack of battery reduces its weight even more.

I'm umming and aring about a DR650 or a TT600R, the DR650 is well tested and is known to have only 3 problems as it has had nigh 19 years of development (it evolved from the DR600).

The TT600R is a mutant variation of the XTZ600 XT600/XT600E , in that in 1996 Yamaha went to Italy and told them to improve their XT and they came up with the TT600R, and has only had 4-5 years od development stuck ontop of the XT600 developments. And had electrical problems of some kind.

The DR650 has a bigger tank though stock 17.8 litres, the TT600R has a tiny 10 litre tank.

But the DR has 9.1:1 compression , the TT 8.7:1 compression and thus will run on low octane fuel!.....

Its a very tough choice.

The DR650 is an excellent travel bike .... This is saying a lot.

To confuse matters more (sorry for the blatant thread hijack) I've found an absolute mint DRZ400 unsure if it is S or E model (its yellow and has a electric start and is it very tall).

I think something that rules out the DRZ400 both the S and the E model is the compression ratio, 12.2:1 on the E version , 11.x:1 on the S model.

The S model runs ok on 87 MON petrol , but Russia averages out at 85 MON petrol and also once you get farther to the east it it drops to about 80MON and then in mongolia is said to drop down to 60 Mon fuel , the DRZ400 will probably suffer severe pinking and premature detonation burning massive holes in the cylinders me thinks , I'm going to see somebody to see if the compression can be reduced to something lik 9.5:1 else it isn't so good.

And would not be good for some parts of South America either as some HUBBers have stated octane in Ecuador and Bolivia can get as low as 40-50 Octane, I wonder how Saajak Lucaasen made it through there on his R1 with 12:1!.

S works with poor petrol. This summer I did round trip in 'stans and there is generally poor fuel plus thin air in high mountains. Typical petrol available in countryside is 70-80 octane (even less in reality). My S worked generally OK, even in mountain passes as high as 4500+ meters. Of course there was big power loss but the engine kept going. I have stock engine. I have not looked at the piston, though.

This is good news.

Actually there is pinging-knocking noise when low octane fuel is used, but only when revs are too low and engine has no power to move the bike (when going very slowly at low revs for example). My terminology may be also wrong, not sure if that is meant by "pinging".

Pinging will happen

Yes, it looks like we are talking about the same thing. If revs are kept higher pinging can be usually avoided.