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No doubt the GIVI bags look goofy on the DR... .but it's what I had laying around. I know the Pelicans and would certainly consider that set up, thanks for the heads up!
I know they are tough bags...I have used them in my work since 1985. Even got a couple free ones when baggage handlers did minor damage to two of mine in Africa.
I'll look into them and adapting them to the GIVI racks.
I don't like the way they open that much...all your stuff falls on the ground.
I guess you have to get the inner bags?
If the GIVI's get busted up i'll just jetison them and use a large duffel bag found locally or have leather saddle bags made. The GIVI's you see on there came off my old Vstrom, which hit the ground twice....just some scrapes on the GIVI's. No other damage. Just lucky I guess.
Bark Busters coming...they are cheapo ones (TusK) so not sure how they'll work. Thanks to Lone Rider and others I've narrowed down my tires.
More to do:
Ordering new chain and sprockets next. (DID VM X ring)
Installing HD Metzeler tubes w/SLIME.
Decided against windshield after doing several long rides.
Still to do Springs front & rear.
Paper work, reading and research.
Yep, I tend to use what I already have as well so I can certainly see the merit in not spending any more money
The Pelicans become much more user friendly when attaching a small wire from the opening lid to the main compartment that prevents it from opening more than about 80-90 degrees. And as you suggest, inner bags are great because you can grab them and carry into your accomodation without bringing the dirt along. The specifically made ones are about $100 online or a approx. smae sized old duffel or back pack works pretty darn well. And if I can find the right seamstress in some small town...
Yes heavy, but no more so than a set of aluminum panniers.
Soft bags, much lighter. Good for many applications, especially shorter trips and yes carry most things. But on longer trips tradeoff is:
1. Slightly improved security for hard bags which depending on your ride you may or may not need. For example, popped into the monastery in Kharkorin in Mongolia and left hard bags locked outside in front of vendor area. Felt fairly secure that someone wouldn't sidle up to the bags unnoticed and go through noticable effort required to break in. Would not have felt secure leaving a simple soft bag where the the usual crowd milling around squeezing the levers could have gone through the bags without too many people noticing. Personal perception I agree, but I certainly would not have felt safe enough to leave a soft bag unattended, even with a lock.
2. Crashability: They simply bounce better. At low to moderate speed crashes they simply bounce and don't require any straightening. The attachment hardware or racks might depending on your system, but the good old soft bags will eventually get a little ripped and torn and require some repairs or extensive bungee cording. It can be done, and when you get to a town you can get them sewn up or a rack made to hold them but after a while they may not work as well they originally did. Of course, that is all moot if you never crash
Inline fuel filter....and a bottle opener..dunno
When are you going, generally where and for how long?
Thanks for the reminder. I've got a couple I'd like to try out. Which ones work the best on the DR? The IMS tank limits space and hose routing...ideas?
Bottle opener? ah, right....not many twist offs down south!
I'm trying to leave in September. Plan is to see some place in Mexico I haven't seen in years. Real de Catorce and the dirt roads around there (Peyote country), some of the highland towns, a friend in Oaxaca, southern coast.
Explore some of Guate, visit where I used to live in Solola', onto Salvador for some water sports, Caribean side of Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica.
Panama? Not sure. Need help there. I may continue on, depending on time and money...into S. America to hook up with friends in Argentina in January. All this time premitting.
Originally Posted by Lone Rider
They're secure, tough...and heavy. They can be mounted by the lid, rather than the bottom, which can help in packing and unpacking.
What are you packing that can't be carried in soft side bags and a soft rear bag?
Good question. Nothing special. I could easily go with soft bags, I just want to try something new. I've done three multi-day dual sport rides with the soft bags. Even for just a 4 or 5 day ride....they were FULL! I guess I need to lighten up. I know how to do this...(honest) but don't want to! I'm old, and set in my ways. I may change my mind yet. Some serious thinking/evaluation about this now.
Thanks for all the great comments too! I didn't know the Pelikan lids were strong enough to mount. Interesting.
The whole security issue is always of concern too....nice outline.
i've been there. I've also learned not to have cool doo-dads on my dash or handlebars. Quick and clever fingers will see them disappear in an instant.
Thanks for the reminder. I've got a couple I'd like to try out. Which ones work the best on the DR? The IMS tank limits space and hose routing...ideas?..............
You can find paper filters in clear plastic case at most all auto parts chains. They're commonly used for lawn mowers.
You will need to loop some fuel line. I recommend using regular 1/4" automotive fuel line. It's cheap and doesn't kink near as easily as tubing.
I can send a pic of my setup (screw up) if that would help.
If you decide to use this and loop some line, remind me to explain about air pockets and what to watch out for.
Sounds like a fantastic trip, really. :thumb
Take one spare oil filter. If you start with a fresh one, that one spare can take you to 15k miles following mfger recommendations.
Plugs are spec'd for 12k, but I put close to 20k on my first set, and they still ran fine.
You know that 14t front will wear your chain faster...but that's life.
Be careful with the soft alum threads on the oil filter cover thingy. I just had to tap mine out to 1/4".
Check the front brake line where it routes inside the left fork and see if it's rubbing 'into' the soft fork.
If you don't need a real knobby style tire, maybe give the IRC GP110 a try. It's an unusual design and works very well on the road. I've gotten 5k each from 2 rears and many miles (I forget) from a front.
Chaparral has them at decent prices. Even the 5.10 will fit, if you want to go fat.
Bob, our '00 DR650 had GP110 tires on it when we first bought it (used) about 4 years ago. I always thought they were a great tire for the DR650 if knobbies like the Dunlop 606 tires weren't required. Because of the riding we have locally between Moab and the San Juan mountains, the D606 tires are what we use, but were we to do a trip like your Mexico trip, I think the GP110s would be about ideal.
Oh, before the last trip we took to Moab on the DR650s, I adjusted the valves on my '05. I got about 1/4 mile before the bike quit. I had forgotten to "bleed" the looped fuel line I use with the IMS tank when I reinstalled the tank. I seem to make that mistake about once a year...
.......... I had forgotten to "bleed" the looped fuel line I use with the IMS tank when I reinstalled the tank. I seem to make that mistake about once a year...
It happens to me if I forget to switch to reserve quick enough. I think that problem often gets blames on the petcock, which it's not.
I remember reading about a rider who 'turned' the carb inlet tube. Used a vise and some pliers, I think.
A simple bleed valve could be added to the line - just ain't done it yet.
The only rear knobby I've run on the DR has been the 606, and that was on the Divide Ride. I feel like I'm throwing money away because they don't last many miles, but it sure does inspire more confidence...and speed.
With some trepidation I bought the Tusk Handguards from Rocky Mountain. I've owned many handguards over 20 years on dirt bikes...Acerbis, Moose,
MSR, and more. Most cost between $80 and $100 with all the fitting kits.
I feared the worst.....but low and behold the $30 TUSK items are not only the best quality of ANY Alu handguards I've seen, but also have the most clever mount system that offers the best adjustability of any I've mounted. Being cheap I did not order the kit for $15 to allow them to fit on Pro Taper Fat bars. Nor did I order plastic shields but choose instead to re-use the stock DR
ones. I used my grinder to "widen" the standard pieces to fit Pro Tapers. No problemo, ten minutes and all fit nicely.
The cam insert that goes into the end of the bar is clever too....for standard 7/8" bar you use the rubber insert, for Alu bars go without it. I did have to grind just a hair off the insert collar. Easy.
I did not have to cut the ball ends off the levers, only angle them down, as they should be anyway. No serious interference from clutch cable or brake line or wires. Check 'em out.
Looking good, in particular they look strong! (and that is a great price).
I've tried a quick internet search and there are lots of outlets for these in the US but not much showing up for Europe or elsewhere.
I guess you are now about ready to travel.
Working on Tool Kit. Discovered several sizes not on the DR650....like 17mm. Only the mirror bolt. OR....13mm.
Haven' found any on external nuts and bolts....inside the motor, trans or clutch these sizes may exist...I Don't plan any roadside rebuilds.
So I'm leaving my 17mm and 13mm wrenches/sockets behind. Also, I've limited my Allen Key set to DR sizes only. I think three are used.
Old Tool kit
The new kit (still in progress) shown contains supplies and parts too. I use four places to stow all this stuff, and several things aren't shown. Like tire irons which are in bash plate. Hard parts mostly go in PVC tool tube under bash plate, stock tool kit holds tire repair and nut/bolt kits (extensive). Elec.gack in tail pack with glues, Volt/ohm meter, and much more. Other stuff in hard bags and Camelback Mule bag. Too much crap!
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