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I've read Colebatch description of this adventurous track and I am planning to try it.
My idea is to do it the other way around - from Kyzil to Kosh Agach.
I know I would need some kind of border zone permit to do this, but I will try without one.
What´s the worst case scenario?
I can´t find any routes to the Altay region coming from east, south of Abakan, so I guess I would have to go back all the way almost to the m53, to get to Altay.
There's a railtrack from Abakan to Novokuznetsk, would that be an option? Kind of BAM road thing?
On another subject:
Going east of the Chuysky Trakt, to Ust-Kan, do one as to go north, or would it would be possible to go east naer the border to the Shemonaika border. On google/osm it seems possible...
If you are caught in a border zone without a permit:
-5000 Rouble fine
-Deportation from Russia within 10 days
-5 year ban from entering Russia.
I don't advise it. I speak from (very) near experience of the above.
The track from Kosh Agach to Khandagayty is epic, though the people on the Tuvan side could at best be described as hostile. The worst people I have ever met. Even other Tuvans are scared of the area.
The border permit is quite easy to get in Kosh Agach - the snag is you need to be registered there. I, with a Russian friend, registered myself in Kosh Agach at the PVS office in Gorno-Altaisk. The other way to do it is to get the guesthouse manager in Kosh Agach to register you.
Actually, Colebatch and I never got a written permit.
We were stopped by a Border Guard on the road south of Kosh-Agach just where we intended turning left. He wanted to see Mongolia Visas to justify our continuing along the main road south. C showed his and waffled beautifully - knowing I didn't have one, never intending to go there!
He let us go and a Km or two down the road we cut across country to pick up our intended route!
The off duty border guards in Murg-Aksi, once they had become friendly, directed us to the garrison about 20km west of Murg-Aksi. We intrioduced ourselves to the Commandant who, after sharing tea and biscuits, said we could proceed as long as we remained on the road (now there was one).
We never had a written permit - just verbal consent for half.
(I hope no-one links this post with my RUS Residency Permit application that has been accepted and currently being processed !!!)
The track from Kosh Agach to Khandagayty is epic, though the people on the Tuvan side could at best be described as hostile.
Pretty much my thoughts too ...
Stunningly beautiful. Challenging roads, and yes the people ... they have a reputation for hostility, and while we werent threatened in any way while we were there, there wasnt the usual openness and friendliness we saw everywhere else in Russia.
I do recall noting while I was there that pretty much every single male was drunk ... at all times .... 10am, 4pm, 11pm.
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Not on topic!
Well, I'm determined to get this thread back on topic . . .
What if you're coming FROM Krasnoyarsk (the East) . . . where is the border permit acquired in that case.
Agreed, no problem here!
From Krasnoyarsk you would be taking the opposite route to our own, following the M54 to Kizil then turn right to Chadan and there south to the Trakt turnoff which was (if I recall corrctly) is opposite a blue painted building.
Somewhere there will be a large Borderland signs in Cyrillic (I can't remember the wording/name - young Colebatch will assist my failing memory!). From there on you can only, in theory, continue along the main road to the border and should have a visa to support being there.
Any deviation requires a permit (or unofficially, as in our case, verbal permission of the Commandant responsible for enforcing it).
A few shallow river crossings, otherwise good gravel or tracks to Murg Aksei. After that no gravel - just grass or earth/mud if wet, Some rougher river crossings and makeshift bridges and, if you want to go via the Khindikhtig Khol lake, quite a bit of riding over trackless heather type covered hills with snow melt bogs beneath.
I must say this was the first area of my part of SibEx and later events over the ensuing months have tended to eclipse the wonder and beauty of this area in my memory. This and the other revived thread (plus a local ex-pat forum here in MOS) have all, this week, reminded me of it and the absolutely haunting lonely beauty and space of the area.
What if you're coming FROM Krasnoyarsk (the East) . . . where is the border permit acquired in that case.
hey Kurt ... 2nd post in the thread, 2nd paragraph ... I dont know exactly where the border zone starts or exactly where there will be a pogranichniki office. I am guessing there will be an office either in Chadan, or in Khandagayty (about 5km after the border road turn off).
There will definately be a border (pogranichniki) office in Khandagayty because its the main crossing between Tuva and Mongolia there (for locals only). But there will be an office there and you will be able to get a permit there. The only question is does the border zone begin before then ... in which case I would also stop in Chadan on the way and ask around town if there is a pogranichniki office there. If there isnt, the locals cops at Chadan will either ignore you or direct you to Khandagayty.
PS... please get me a waypoint for the pogranichniki office on that eastern side of the track
we are going to go the summer of 2013 in Altai and Tuva Track.
from Ak-Dovurak there are 2 possibilities to go to Krasnoyarsk:
1 - directly north via A161 road to Abakan and then M54
2 - to Kyzyl and then up on M54.
Do you have any recommendations? (regarding the picturesque of the landscape)
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