Go Back   Horizons Unlimited - The HUBB > Regional Forums > Northern and Central Asia
Northern and Central Asia Topics specific to Russia, Azerbaijan, Armenia, Georgia, Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan, Turkmenistan, Mongolia, China, Japan and Korea
Photo by Daniel Rintz, Himba children, Namibia

The only impossible journey
is the one
you never begin

Photo by Daniel Rintz,
Himba children, Namibia



Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 14 Apr 2006
Registered Users
HUBB regular
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 37
Road of Bones: Who's done it?

I know of three journey's within the last few years on motorbikes; Adrian Scott's solo, a group of riders (Blue-dunes.com), and of course the three guys in the long way round (counting the Swiss cameraman, as he deserves as much credit). I'm about to ride this same route traveling Westward from Magadan in mid-late June~early July, and wonder if perhaps I'm a bit insane to do this without any company. Wonder what the chances are that I'll find another riding this same route and direction around the same time frame? Any tips?
Thanks, Mark
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 15 Apr 2006
simmo's Avatar
Contributing Member
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: melbourne
Posts: 555
Of course you are insane, have you seen siberian mosquitoes, the mud, the rain, but thats not got anything to do with it. It must be one of the worlds more challenging rides, especially if you like Taiga. You know it can and has been done solo or in a group, it just depends on how you choose to do it.
__________________
Close to Antarctica and a long way from reality
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 15 Apr 2006
Contributing Member
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Idaho, USA
Posts: 212
I can add one rider to the Road of Bones list. Last summer somewhere west of Birobidzhan I encountered a young woman named Sasha Melnikova (I hope I have her last name right), 23 years old, who had ridden solo from her home in St. Petersburg to Magadan, shipped from there to Vladivostok, and was in the process of riding back to St. Petersburg (which she successfully did). The amazing thing was her motorcycle, a 10 year old 350 cc Russian made two stroke piled high with luggage and gear. It would do about 45 - 50 mph maximum on level ground, slowed down badly on any incline, appeared to have a bent frame since it didn't track straight, and a worn out shock causing it to bounce badly over any bump of significance. And, she bent a rim during the four days we rode together, which she pounded out somewhat with a big hammer borrowed from a tire repair shop.

More details, and pictures, about Sasha and riding with her are on my website, www.rtwrider.net. After hearing of her adventures I couldn't help but feel very sheepish about all the time, preparation and money I had put into my motorcycle for this trip (although I'm glad I did). She is an amazing rider.

Regarding the biting insects, I found them to be much less a problem than most Siberian travelers have described because I went during the last half of August. By then the nights were getting chilly (apparently killing most of the bugs) but the days were sunny and pleasant and there was no mud.

Mike
Idaho
__________________
Mike
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 16 Apr 2006
Registered Users
HUBB regular
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Melbourne, Vic, Australia
Posts: 50
insane?

I do not consider myself (technically) insane, although there were moments alone in the taiga/swamp/bog/frozen rivers when I did lose my sanity temporarily. Thoughts like "what the **ck do you think you're doing here you idiot" flashed through my mind quite often...

I just looked at the map, saw a red line and knew others - including the now departed SImon Milward http://www.millennium-ride.com/ had done it. Simon also went solo, although his state of mind at the time can be questioned (refer to the poems he wrote about the road of bones.....).

I was naive, didn't know any better and certainly would not have got through without the help of others (truck drivers, kind villagers, etc etc). So, of course it's possible, just frikkin hard. Depends how much you like your own company and can manage your bike alone in the mud and rivers. I reckon the acid test is being able to pick it up fully loaded from when it falls down and down and down and down (including underwater) and also being able to push it through for long distances through the bogs by yourself. In reality the hardest stretch is the 400kms or so from Kadykchan to Tomtor. The rest is off road gravel and no sooo bad, although the 100kms east of Khandyga, beyond the Aldan River is awful if its been raining.

Go for it. Good luck finding others. I asked a couple of friends and they all laughed in my face....

Let me know if you have specific questions. I know some great places to get arc welding done and fractured bones fixed.

Adrian

www.users.bigpond.net.au/AdrianScott

Hi Alec!
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 22 Apr 2006
Chris Scott's Avatar
Super Moderator
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Jun 2000
Posts: 4,801
Let's not forget Mondo Enduro did it, but at least 10 years ago when it was in much better shape (they tell me). With little or no maintenance since then it gets worse and worse, so get in there before it turns back into taiga. A brilliant book on the area is 'Kolyma Tales' - absolutely chilling...

Ch
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 23 Apr 2006
KJ KJ is offline
Registered Users
HUBB regular
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Posts: 29
Hi Mark

I read about a couple of polish guys who went through last summer as well and they said the going was "favourable" - not sure what that means !!

I've sent you an email as well to run an idea by you - I'm doing a loop similar to the Long way round guys but out Vladivostok, your post made me think about reversing the direction - see what you think !

Kevin
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 24 Apr 2006
Registered Users
HUBB regular
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 37
Thanks for all your replies and my apologies for not replying sooner. I've been very busy trying to get the bike sorted (still in parts, and only has 21 miles on it-It's a KLR650) and getting all the stuff I'll need for the trip.

Mike and Adrian; I’ve read each of your web sites a few months back with great interest. Your web pages offer considerable amounts of valuable information, not only in regard to the ride itself, but the people and the customs first hand. Adrian; it was your experience on the Road of Bones that made me decide on Magadan, I look forward to the challenging riding. I must admit though, I'm a bit apprehensive about the waist deep mud holes, river crossings and possible encounters with hungry bears emerging out of hibernation.
Mark
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 24 Apr 2006
Contributing Member
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Gloucester, England
Posts: 419
Mika Kuhn has also ridden this road.

Regards, Mick
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 24 Apr 2006
simmo's Avatar
Contributing Member
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: melbourne
Posts: 555
Mark, remember that waist deep for Adrian is neck deep for the rest of us.
__________________
Close to Antarctica and a long way from reality
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 25 Apr 2006
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Australia
Posts: 103
Quote:
Originally Posted by liketoride2
I can add one rider to the Road of Bones list. Last summer somewhere west of Birobidzhan I encountered a young woman named Sasha Melnikova (I hope I have her last name right), 23 years old, who had ridden solo from her home in St. Petersburg to Magadan, shipped from there to Vladivostok, and was in the process of riding back to St. Petersburg (which she successfully did). The amazing thing was her motorcycle, a 10 year old 350 cc Russian made two stroke piled high with luggage and gear. It would do about 45 - 50 mph maximum on level ground, slowed down badly on any incline, appeared to have a bent frame since it didn't track straight, and a worn out shock causing it to bounce badly over any bump of significance. And, she bent a rim during the four days we rode together, which she pounded out somewhat with a big hammer borrowed from a tire repair shop.

More details, and pictures, about Sasha and riding with her are on my website, www.rtwrider.net. After hearing of her adventures I couldn't help but feel very sheepish about all the time, preparation and money I had put into my motorcycle for this trip (although I'm glad I did). She is an amazing rider.

Regarding the biting insects, I found them to be much less a problem than most Siberian travelers have described because I went during the last half of August. By then the nights were getting chilly (apparently killing most of the bugs) but the days were sunny and pleasant and there was no mud.

Mike
Idaho
Right lastname - Teplyakova. Alexandra (Sasha) Teplyakova :-)
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 25 Apr 2006
Registered Users
Veteran HUBBer
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Berkeley, CA USA
Posts: 312
I think more people have done it than we know. I rode from Vlad. to Ulan Ude and met some Germans on the way that were heading to Magadan. I've never heard from them again or read stories on the internet. They had all their information from friends of theirs who had done it that I have also never heard about online. I wouldn't do it myself mind you, but I bet it is done more often than we think.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 26 Apr 2006
Registered Users
HUBB regular
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Melbourne,Victoria,Australia
Posts: 27
Many unknown trips

We also met 3 riders from Canada 1 up and 2up on Kawasakis who arrived in Chita the same time we did, they had come from Magadan. We never heard from them again. They had some great photos of sucken bikes and mud. It looked great. Dont know if they are known of or not. Many people are on these roads that never come to light.
Ill keep that trip for a later date.
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 28 Apr 2006
Registered Users
HUBB regular
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Melbourne, Vic, Australia
Posts: 50
Others on the Road of Bones

The "Canadians" recorded their journey at www.motodreamers.com If you like mud and mud and water and taiga and mosquitos, there are many many photos here, videos and some stories. These guys went in 2005 two weeks ahead of me, before it rained a lot.......

Re: the bears, according to the locals they are really hungry in Spring time when they wake up (about May), less so in "Summer" in July, although I saw plenty of evidence of them along the road (apparently Russian bears do not s**t in the woods....)

Adrian
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 2 May 2006
Registered Users
HUBB regular
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: USA
Posts: 37
Excellent info., thanks! Lots of interesting pics and info, still need to review it all. Rather than going through a shipper, Jacek and Greg & Natasha shipped their bikes as checked-in luggage. I tried contacting Magadan airlines directly but the phone number is not in service.
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 3 May 2006
Registered Users
HUBB regular
 
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Melbourne, Vic, Australia
Posts: 50
Shipping to Magadan

Forget it. Too hard to line up the shipping schedules and there's not so much traffic anyway. I also got my Bike to Magadan on an airplane (from Vladivostok). They made me pull the wheels off and lots of other stuff then I wrapped it in cardboard then they stuck on top of the mail bags inside the hold of the plane...

I tried and tried to organize shipping, even via Anchorage without success. I also tried Air Alaska but it was all too hard.....I would recommend Magadan Airlines ("Mavial"). Money talks and anything is possible....

I ended up dealing directly with the president of the Airline (in Vladivostok) and he was most helpful.

Good luck.

I have a contact in Vladivostok who helped me do all this. Let me know if you want his contact details.

www.users.bigpond.net.au/AdrianScott
Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 Registered Users and/or Members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Round road trip from Pakistan to London Switzerland khurramkhan Route Planning 3 13 Apr 2010 07:48
Round road trip khurramkhan Travellers' Advisories, Safety and Security on the Road 4 7 Mar 2008 19:05
Chita to Khabarovsk route description Chris Scott Northern and Central Asia 3 23 Feb 2005 17:13
djibouti - eritrea miles murray sub-Saharan Africa 3 13 Jan 2005 18:56
The Stilwell Road beddhist West and South Asia 0 21 Nov 2004 03:12

 
 

Announcements

Thinking about traveling? Not sure about the whole thing? Watch the HU Achievable Dream Video Trailers and then get ALL the information you need to get inspired and learn how to travel anywhere in the world!

Have YOU ever wondered who has ridden around the world? We did too - and now here's the list of Circumnavigators!
Check it out now
, and add your information if we didn't find you.

Next HU Eventscalendar

HU Event and other updates on the HUBB Forum "Traveller's Advisories" thread.
ALL Dates subject to change.

2024:

Add yourself to the Updates List for each event!

Questions about an event? Ask here

HUBBUK: info

See all event details

 
World's most listened to Adventure Motorbike Show!
Check the RAW segments; Grant, your HU host is on every month!
Episodes below to listen to while you, err, pretend to do something or other...

2020 Edition of Chris Scott's Adventure Motorcycling Handbook.

2020 Edition of Chris Scott's Adventure Motorcycling Handbook.

"Ultimate global guide for red-blooded bikers planning overseas exploration. Covers choice & preparation of best bike, shipping overseas, baggage design, riding techniques, travel health, visas, documentation, safety and useful addresses." Recommended. (Grant)



Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance.

Ripcord Rescue Travel Insurance™ combines into a single integrated program the best evacuation and rescue with the premier travel insurance coverages designed for adventurers.

Led by special operations veterans, Stanford Medicine affiliated physicians, paramedics and other travel experts, Ripcord is perfect for adventure seekers, climbers, skiers, sports enthusiasts, hunters, international travelers, humanitarian efforts, expeditions and more.

Ripcord travel protection is now available for ALL nationalities, and travel is covered on motorcycles of all sizes!


 

What others say about HU...

"This site is the BIBLE for international bike travelers." Greg, Australia

"Thank you! The web site, The travels, The insight, The inspiration, Everything, just thanks." Colin, UK

"My friend and I are planning a trip from Singapore to England... We found (the HU) site invaluable as an aid to planning and have based a lot of our purchases (bikes, riding gear, etc.) on what we have learned from this site." Phil, Australia

"I for one always had an adventurous spirit, but you and Susan lit the fire for my trip and I'll be forever grateful for what you two do to inspire others to just do it." Brent, USA

"Your website is a mecca of valuable information and the (video) series is informative, entertaining, and inspiring!" Jennifer, Canada

"Your worldwide organisation and events are the Go To places to for all serious touring and aspiring touring bikers." Trevor, South Africa

"This is the answer to all my questions." Haydn, Australia

"Keep going the excellent work you are doing for Horizons Unlimited - I love it!" Thomas, Germany

Lots more comments here!



Five books by Graham Field!

Diaries of a compulsive traveller
by Graham Field
Book, eBook, Audiobook

"A compelling, honest, inspiring and entertaining writing style with a built-in feel-good factor" Get them NOW from the authors' website and Amazon.com, Amazon.ca, Amazon.co.uk.



Back Road Map Books and Backroad GPS Maps for all of Canada - a must have!

New to Horizons Unlimited?

New to motorcycle travelling? New to the HU site? Confused? Too many options? It's really very simple - just 4 easy steps!

Horizons Unlimited was founded in 1997 by Grant and Susan Johnson following their journey around the world on a BMW R80G/S.

Susan and Grant Johnson Read more about Grant & Susan's story

Membership - help keep us going!

Horizons Unlimited is not a big multi-national company, just two people who love motorcycle travel and have grown what started as a hobby in 1997 into a full time job (usually 8-10 hours per day and 7 days a week) and a labour of love. To keep it going and a roof over our heads, we run events all over the world with the help of volunteers; we sell inspirational and informative DVDs; we have a few selected advertisers; and we make a small amount from memberships.

You don't have to be a Member to come to an HU meeting, access the website, or ask questions on the HUBB. What you get for your membership contribution is our sincere gratitude, good karma and knowing that you're helping to keep the motorcycle travel dream alive. Contributing Members and Gold Members do get additional features on the HUBB. Here's a list of all the Member benefits on the HUBB.




All times are GMT +1. The time now is 10:52.