We've just spent a month or so in British Colombia and it seems like five minutes. Our time there was packed with doing stuff, seeing stuff and at times seeing absolutely nothing at all through the rain. As we expected it was pretty cold up North but it was worth it. We got there just that little bit too late to get as far North in Canada as we'd have liked but that's life. We just made the most of where we could get to.

After staying in Kalso (see last update) we rode over to Revelstoke for the annual Horizons Unlimited Canada Meeting. It was great to spend time with a bunch of like-minded semi-mad people from all over the world. Some we knew, most we didn't but 89 people all coming together with one thing in common makes for an interesting and fun weekend, which it was. An international pavilion seemed to spring up on the campsite made up of all the people who are currently on the road and each evening we'd huddle round the fire and talk in several languages simutainiously. My German and Japanese vocabulary of swear words has certainly come on. (Thanks!) Its surprising how quickly new friends are made at events like this when you all have something so profound in common like getting dirty and smelly everyday. By the end of the weekend Liz and I knew we had become very popular when we returned to our tent to find a bottle of wasps had been left for us with simple note: "Love Ramona, Uwe and Derek" Thanks, it was very touching!

From Revelstoke we acted on the advice given to us by people over the weekend by totally ignoring it and heading North. With heated jackets and winter gloves we made our way to Bella Coola on the mid coast of BC to catch the ferry to Prince Rupert. The theory was that if the weather was too bad to ride we'd hire a pickup, throw the bike in the back and drive South again. That way we'd at least get to see more of Canada. Having ridden 300 miles, most of it dirt roads, to the port we found that the ferry had stopped running for the winter six days before. We did manage to see the funny side of it but we were also disappointed. Nevertheless we made the most of it and turned right round to ride to Vancouver. Neither Liz or I are 'big city people' but we'd heard good things about the city so thought we'd give it a go. We got off to a good start when Liz booked us into a hostel right in the middle of Vancouver's red-light district. At any time of day there was everything on offer for every taste. Our room didn't have a TV but we soon found that one wasn't needed as we pulled the chairs up to the window and watched the prostitutes and punters across the road. Business did seem to be slow for the poor girls though.

There's two very different faces to Vancouver it seems. I don't think I've ever seen so many desperate people living on the streets of a city in the 'Western World' before. Everywhere you go there are people sleeping in doorways, looking for hand-outs and shooting up. Its sad to see. On the other hand Vancouver is very cosmopolitan, vibrant and captivating. Whether visiting or living there there's so much to do and see its outstanding. We took a bus ride to the Museum of Anthropology on the University campus which is well worth a visit. 170,000 exhibits of 'stuff' from native tribes from all over the world. We spent a full day there walking round, sitting and just taking in all there was to see.

The following day we visited Stanley Park which is lovely in itself but we went over to see the Vancouver Aquarium. We'd both been to the Blue Planet Aquarium in the UK and didn't expect that Vancouver could rival it. In some ways it doesn't as its older and a little less well designed but in terms of what's on show it surpasses. Top of the tree has to be the sea otters. I defy any seal-clubber not to melt and want to take one home with him (alive!) When we saw them they were just floating around on their backs holding paws and fast asleep. Occasionally one would open an eye, get a fix on where they were in the pool and push off the side with one lazy leg and float back in the direction they had come. Liz regressed to the age of 4 instantaneously and started jumping up and down pulling on my shirt while making odd noises akin to a child in a sweet shop. Other attractions were the seals and sea-lions, sharks and jelly-fish and the Amazonian fish. However, top of the 'ugly stakes' were the Beluga whales by a stubby nose. There were 8 of them and every one had the features only a mother could love. They were every cosmetic surgeons dream with rolls of blubber hanging off them all over the place. Unlike your average blue whale or orca these things had it hanging off them like off white curtains. As for their heads, they must be a very advanced species because that brain is dieing to push out straight through the centre of their foreheads. It makes them look like they've been sucking too hard on a air compressor. Having spent another full day at the Aquarium we went back to the hostel to watch the nightlife again before being up early the next morning to go whale watching. A fast boat ride out across the mouth of the Frazer River and we were amongst a big pod of transient Orcas. There were twenty or so of us on the boat and as soon as we cut the motor the boat started listing from side to side as we all ran around with cameras glued to our right eyes. Obviously Liz and I were above this sort of behavior - not. We had chosen an ethical tour operator so we kept a reasonable distance from the whales so as not to disturb them. Of course all those people on other boats who went with 'Mr Cheap and Cheerful Operator' ignored all the rules and got right up close and personal with them. Sometimes I question my ethics! In all we saw 3 pods amassing to 50 whales or so and even though we didn't get as close as others did it was fantastic to see these things just doing what they do and living as they should.

Vancouver was a surprise to us in that it was far better than we thought it would be and after 5 days there we left satisfied and headed south again for the US border - again. We've been back in the States for four days now and are zig-zaging our way down Highway 101 at a relaxed pace. There hasn't been much to report here yet other than on day 1 across the border we got rather lost and nearly ended up back in Canada. On day 2 we, well I got pulled over by the ever so lovely State Troopers for speeding. I was a little surprised to see the officers lights in our mirror at first but when he explained that I'd just overtaken the red pickup who he was following for speeding he thought he'd pull me instead. All was OK though when Liz showed a little leg and I got off with a Caution.

Well, we didn't expect to writing another update quite so soon but we've seen so much in the last few days that we thought we'd do one before we forgot just what we have done. After waiting out the weather in Jackson Hole, Wyoming we decided to bite the bullet and ride on to the Great Teton National Park and then to Yellowstone. As soon as we cocked a leg over the bike the inevitable happened. The weather got worse. The only reason we know we rode through the Great Teton National Park was the fact that the Ranger at the entrance gate asked to see our National Parks Pass. However, having asked she took a further look at us and told us not to bother showing it, just to ride on through. Sometimes pity does have its advantages! When we got to the other side of the park we stopped at the Visitor Centre and bought a postcard so we would know what the Tetons looked like. The cloud and rain was pretty impressive too!

The Tetons and Yellowstone Parks abut each other so having left one park we immediately entered the other. On entering Yellowstone it stopped raining. It started snowing instead! Luckily Liz in her role as 'Tour Company Rep' had booked ahead for us to stay in a cabin beside Old Faithful Geyser so we only had 30 miles or so of the snow to contend with.

Yellowstone was one of the top places we really wanted to see in the States and even though the weather was against us on arrival we were pleased to be there. Old Faithful is one of around a hundred or so geysers in its immediate vacinity but is the most famous. Every 92 minutes (+/-10) she erupts sending a flume of steam and water hundreds of feet into the air. At each eruption hundreds of people gather around her jockeying for position and the noise of the geyser is almost drowned out by the sound of hundreds of camera shutters going off. Both Old Faithful and the crowds are impressive in different but equal measure. Having booked a cabin Liz and I had a couple of days to wander around the area so during the day we would head off into the forest and mountains to explore and in the early morning and last thing at night walk around the geysers. As we wandered off into the wilderness we stopped to talk to a Ranger. I asked him if there was anywhere we shouldn't go. He replied that the next thirty million acres were all ours and to enjoy. We did too, although we probably explored closer to a hundred acres though. It all looks the same anyway (not!).

In all we stayed for four days in Yellowstone and after the wintery ride to the park the weather turned round the next morning and we had wonderful sunshine. Yellowstone was far beyond our expectations. Friends had told us it was wonderful and even shown us their photos but its one of those places that descriptions and photos can't do justice to.

From Yellowstone we rode across Montana which overall had to be our favorite State just for its beauty but our goal was the Canadian border. We finally crossed the border on the 31st August. For both the USA and Mexico taking our bike into the countries had meant a pile of paperwork at each Customs Post but Canada being a Commonwealth country only required a stamp in our Passports. It took all of 5 seconds for an entry permit with the bike valid for 6 months. That'll do nicely. British Colombia is huge and we've only been here three days but what a change from the States. The people are totally different (aside from the usual physical characteristics that the human form generally has of course). Stereotypically attitudes to life are different and the way people talk with each other is different. Its difficult to explain how so I won't but take our word for it. This part of BC is mountains, trees, trees, trees and water. We're a little way outside Calgary beside the Kootenay Lake. Its not too wide but it's 97 miles long which is quite impressive as lakes go. We've booked into a cabin beside the lake for a few days while we explore the area. There are hot-springs to swim in, sea kayaking on the lake, walks in the mountains and perhaps surprisingly best of all a kitchen to cook in. We haven't had a kitchen for 6 months and aside from our own toilet its the one room of the house we miss the most! So tonight it'll be a culinary delight like never before - good or bad we'll have to see but we'll enjoy it either way.

In some ways we're killing time a little as rather than head further north for the moment we're going to go to the Horizons Unlimited Bike Meeting on the 9th-11th and talk bikey / 'overland' stuff for a few days with mad people like ourselves. Its going to be strange catching up with friends we've never physically met before but seem to have known for a long time over the Internet.