Horizons Unlimited - The HUBB - Finding Freedom...World Wide Ride

Horizons Unlimited - The HUBB (https://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hubb/)

- Ride Tales (https://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hubb/ride-tales/)

- - Finding Freedom...World Wide Ride (https://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hubb/ride-tales/finding-freedom-world-wide-ride-65365)

We crossed the border into Austria and stayed on the small roads as usual and also because we had not yet bought a toll vignette. This is a sticker you must have to take the highways. It is 5 E for 10 days per bike.

https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8810/2...1ddce974_b.jpg Zell Am See CC-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

There started to be more clouds, but we went for it and continued past Lientz. Riding north from Lienz is very scenic and you get to Heilgenblut am Grossglockner without paying any tolls.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8512/2...097b361d_b.jpg Zell Am See CC-15 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8355/2...04abe10c_b.jpg Zell Am See CC-14 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8882/2...d3a5359c_b.jpg

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8233/2...c9574c33_b.jpg Glossglockner-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

The 48 km Grossglockner has an outrageous toll of 25 E, but it must be done and “at least they give you a sticker!” After paying the toll you head up the first set of switch backs and at the T intersection you go left first towards the Pasterze, Glacier.

https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8631/2...2d5df88e_b.jpg Screen Shot 2016-07-20 at 21.06.29 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8692/2...1264cec0_b.jpg Zell Am See CC-16 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8651/2...95485900_b.jpg Zell Am See CC-17 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8705/2...73b38827_b.jpg Glossglockner-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

The plan is to head to the camp ground at the north end of the lake, set up and hope they have a restaurant. If not it is a 5 km ride to the town. We arrive to the packed camp site, but found a patch of grass in one corner just big enough for our tent. We started to set up and a couple of Dutch riders came over with a plate of grilled meats, vegetables, and bread for us. They said “ you have arrived so late (7 pm) that you must be starved and you must eat this”. Then they said “ We are just over there and we have beer so see you soon”. Super nice group of Dutch and Swiss riders that we spent a very nice evening with. Luckily the tuk shop was still open and we could get some beers for them as a thank you. Got to LOVE the biker community!

https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8728/2...1f1a9f93_b.jpg Glossglockner-17 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We woke up to a nice sunny day and since we only had an hour and a half drive to Salzburg we planned a loop out into the Austrian hills.

https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7683/2...2ce72898_b.jpg Screen Shot 2016-07-20 at 21.15.52 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

This was thru picturesque Austrian villages, past several lakes, and thru the mountains. It is very green, clean, and very pretty here. Austria is AWESOME!!

https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8607/2...b0f086dc_b.jpg Salzburg CC-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8436/2...e683719c_b.jpg Salzburg CC-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c4.staticflickr.com/9/8102/2...dbb7a3f7_b.jpg Salzburg CC-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8677/2...7f1ca57e_b.jpg Salzburg CC by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We pulled into the city at just after 4 and it was 28 degrees in the shade and the sun was blazing.

“Salzburg is an Austrian city on the German border, with views of the Eastern Alps. It’s known as the birthplace of Mozart and setting for the film “The Sound of Music.” The city is divided by the Salzach River, with medieval and baroque buildings of the pedestrian Altstadt (Old City) on its left bank, and 19th-century Neustadt (New City) on the right.”

We hid out in the hotel until after 6 and then walked the 2.5 km into the city centre. Here we wandered around the very pretty down town area and then crossed the river and explore the walled old city. Here there are narrow pedestrian streets with smaller interconnecting alley ways. You have several large squares, a number of churches and the castle towering on the hilltop.

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8756/2...ed68e50f_b.jpgSalzburg-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8683/2...f5eac337_b.jpgSalzburg-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8485/2...970d8083_b.jpgSalzburg-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Even Mc Donalds in the old city has a fancy sign.

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8771/2...0f2414db_b.jpgSalzburg-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7671/2...976b123a_b.jpgSalzburg-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

People are like gerkins we are all different.

https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8849/2...8dcd2a65_b.jpgSalzburg-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8622/2...b60b4bae_b.jpgSalzburg-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8843/2...754a3c0c_b.jpgSalzburg-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8652/2...92a75c39_b.jpgSalzburg-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8525/2...89ea3eef_b.jpgSalzburg-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8729/2...b7dbe190_b.jpgSalzburg-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We are crossing the north of the country from Salzburg to Wien (Vienna). On the small roads the trip is 5 hours, but on the toll road it is only 3. Since we plan to take the toll road to Slovenia later in the week we opted to just get the vignette today. You can buy them at any gas station and this allows you to drive on the highways, but some of the tunnels have extra tolls. So we had a quick, but fairly boring ride to Vienna.

https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8578/2...637b3a86_b.jpg Screen Shot 2016-07-20 at 21.16.57 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We planned to stay 2 days in Vienna and since hotels and especially the parking rates are outrageous in the city centre we stayed outside the downtown, but with free parking and at a reasonable rate. The hotel is directly on the 71 tram line to the centre. Dan’s 800 was doing some weird things on the way into the city. The dash lights flashing on and off, the fuel light coming on and off. The bike itself was running normally. This had happened one time in Italy for a few seconds, but today it was coming and going. Luckily we were close to the hotel. We hooked up the GS 911, but noted the fuel sensor was displaced from the port by quite a bit and he pushed it back in. The 911 said there was a loss of communication from the cam bus and there were hundreds of fault codes. The problem did not recur and the bike is running well, but there must be a loose or frayed wire somewhere as the fault codes are still occurring. We will have to do a thorough check to find out where.

Such Great Pictures and detail. Remember some of those from the 60's. Keep it up. Much appreciated.

Quote:

Originally Posted by lectron (Post 544474)

Such Great Pictures and detail. Remember some of those from the 60's. Keep it up. Much appreciated.

Hey thanks! headed to the Transalpina and Transfagarian this week in Romania! Cheers Sara

From Vienna we were on a bit of a mission to make it to the Slovenian capital of Ljubljana for Friday afternoon since our friends there had taken the day off to show us around. This meant another boring 4 hours on the toll / vignette highway to the south and then west. Arriving we were greeted by our friends Goran & Šanin (Sha-neen) who we had met in Cumbuco Brazil in 2014. They told us to come just for the “human fish” found here, but Slovenia is such a great place to visit you don’t need tourist a gimmick Gogy!

https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8269/2...2f5c215c37.jpg Screen Shot 2016-08-01 at 18.43.02 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7780/2...e698c5b5_b.jpg cave-dwelling-human-fish-lays-eggs-136403951126203901-160212141358 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

“The olm or proteus is an aquatic salamander in the family Proteidae, the only exclusively cave-dwelling chordate species found in Europe. In contrast to most amphibians, it is entirely aquatic; it eats, sleeps, and breeds underwater. Living in caves found in the Dinaric Alps, it is endemic to the waters that flow underground through the extensive limestone of the karst of Central and Southeastern Europe, specifically southern Slovenia.”

We strolled the city, had a few beers (with free hot dogs..love this place) and then some ice cream from a local Slovenian shop called Cacoa.

https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8846/2...6442d3c2_b.jpg Ljubljana-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7767/2...e2c67ee5_b.jpg Ljubljana-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We ended the eating spree with a visit to “open kitchen” which is a street food party held here every Friday night. We had amazing ribs, local Dragon beer, and wine served in real classes. It was packed. They even have a gin and tonic stall. The town is full of people having a good time.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8667/2...5f2eacb5_b.jpg Ljubljana-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8105/2...7105ac65_b.jpg Ljubljana-16 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8376/2...4cef65fa_b.jpg Ljubljana-17 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We finished the evening with a stroll along the lake after sunset and some caipirinhas.

https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7778/2...abfe0e01_b.jpg Ljubljana-15 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8799/2...5d91b1a6_b.jpg Ljubljana-18 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We back tracked to Bled, which is said to be one of the most picturesque spots in Europe. There is the Bled castle, and the church on the island. Here also at the largest hotel there serve the traditional Bled cream cake Kremmna Rezina or “Kremsnita” of which Dan had 2 slices (delicious).

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8658/2...59946609_b.jpg Ljubljana-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7499/2...7c92c064_b.jpg Ljubljana-19 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8810/2...7b8bb0c9_b.jpg Ljubljana-31 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7510/2...f03387e0_b.jpg Ljubljana-27 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8757/2...63e07881_b.jpg

From Bled we headed back to the city and to the famous Hood Burger for the best burgers we have ever had and served from a metal shipping container in the SPAR parking lot!

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8404/2...94e08b2e_b.jpg Ljubljana-13 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Sunday we had another sleep in followed by coffee at the base of Mount St. Mary (which we were to lazy to hike up the 600 meters), then we visited the cemetery, and finally the Metelkova district ( a former squatters village turned into street art and night club venue). We had a great Chinese lunch and then took a tour of the Ljubljana castle to appreciate the view. From here we headed to the Iconic Dragon bridge and then the Sky terrace for some Radlers and a view of the castle.

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8798/2...d3514796_b.jpg Ljubljana-35 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8802/2...628c0920_b.jpg Ljubljana-36 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8031/2...7d786261_b.jpg Ljubljana-32 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8809/2...b5e44114_b.jpg Ljubljana-33 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7673/2...a6448ff4_b.jpg Ljubljana-34 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

So sad to leave the amazing hospitality of our friends, but the adventure continues. Slovenia is a very nice country that we never hear anything about in the west. That is probably because life is good here.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8715/2...26485883_b.jpg Ljubljana by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Today we want to stop by the Akrapović factory that is just 35 km away in Ivanca Gorica. They were very nice to meet with us and gave us some cool Akrapociv gear! They are unable to give tours of the factory due to corporate security issues.

https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8575/2...63b2c6d6_z.jpg Screen Shot 2016-07-25 at 22.49.52 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8116/2...d7066010_b.jpg S6E1 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Looks like Dan's getting used to that camera, great photo's and nice to keep my mind off work :D

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rondelli (Post 544605)

Looks like Dan's getting used to that camera, great photo's and nice to keep my mind off work :D

Yes he is doing a great job with the pics! You need to try harder to get fired and severance!!! xoxo

This Slovenian rider stopped us at a round about and said “ do you speak English? Then he asked us to show him how to get to Ljubljana?!”

https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8508/2...7dd18c0a_b.jpg Sara Pics by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

It was quite funny when we arrived on this very small country road to a border check. It was a sort of which country is this moment. We hoped it was the crossing into Croatia. For a second it was confusing since the sign said Hrvatska, which your brain translates as Hungary!

https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8694/2...acfe80de_b.jpg Sara Pics-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

This is a Schengen crossing with an out of the zone stamp from Slovenia and then one into Croatia, which is not in the Schengen despite being in the EU. We continued across Croatia to finally enter Hungary, where there is another Schengen check since Hungary is both in the EU and the Schengen.

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8239/2...011cb99c_b.jpg Sara Pics-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We had to wing it a bit after the Croatian border since we had taken our paper map home and deleted the Croatia maps from the GPS since we needed the space.

We had a short trip from the border to the fair sized town of Nagykanizsa. For Hungary they also have a vignette system, but it is not only for the highways, but some other major roads. It is easy here as it is an E vignette that you get online and is 5 E/10 days for bikes. It is also more sophisticated here as they have video surveillance for the tolls. We walked to the near by square for a traditional Hungarian meal of fried potato dumplings.

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8625/2...35418e57_b.jpg Hungary by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8716/2...bd41c720_b.jpg Sara Pics-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

This morning it is pouring as forecast, but it was to stop at 11 and so we waited it out, but though it was less rainy it was till raining at 1030. That said we got 50 km east and to lake Balaton (largest lake in central Europe) and the sun came out and we stripped off the rain gear. We stayed on the north side of the huge lake and then hit the highway for the last 100 km to Budapest.

https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8784/2...a60b84fc_z.jpg Screen Shot 2016-08-04 at 19.16.43 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We had booked into a cheap hotel that was 600 meters from the M2 subway line. This gave us quick access to the city. We had originally planned two nights, but this meant leaving when the forecast was terrible after the second night and then the next day was supposed to be very nice. So we booked for 3 nights in the slightly sketch hotel. After arriving we headed to what is now our new favourite European capital. The city is very clean, very easy to get around, stunning, and very alive. We did a walking tour of the city centre and along the Danube.

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8067/2...f52517ea_b.jpg Budapest-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c4.staticflickr.com/9/8759/2...276ae7d7_b.jpg Budapest-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8849/2...cec682ac_b.jpg Budapest-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8811/2...f040d5bc_b.jpg Budapest by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8817/2...b1b5aa4b_b.jpg Budapest-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8673/2...bfb15e4e_b.jpg Budapest-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Tonight we have been invited to the home of fellow rider Dirk and we took the train about 30 km away for a nice evening in his home with a very nice homemade lasagna. We made a stop to see the castle that was Mozart's summer house.

https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8582/2...9ce8af59_b.jpg Budapest by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8637/2...14b33795_b.jpg Budapest-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flicke

https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8322/2...f6c1435d_b.jpg Budapest-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

As forecast we woke to torrential rain thunder and lightening. This eased off after 2pm and we headed into the city to meet our pilot friend Jason who had just flown in from Toronto. We had just missed him in several spots in Italy and as well in Athens this summer.

We made a stop at the largest synagogue in Europe on our way to the bar!!!.

https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8167/2...b2da7abe_b.jpg Budapest-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8362/2...6d96b0b1_b.jpg Budapest-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c4.staticflickr.com/9/8836/2...c8533468_b.jpg Budapest-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

This is a memorial to those shot on the banks of the Danube by Arrow cross militiamen

"The Shoes on the Danube Bank is a memorial to honor the Jews who were killed by fascist Arrow Cross militiamen in Budapest during World War II. They were ordered to take off their shoes, and were shot at the edge of the water so that their bodies fell into the river and were carried away. It represents their shoes left behind on the bank.”

https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8810/2...808b699e_b.jpg Sara Pics-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8732/2...476f2f21_b.jpg Sara Pics-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Also as predicted it was a beautiful sunny day when we awoke. The plan today is to head 27 km south west to the moto24 shop where thanks to Dirk we had arranged for oil changes with just 1 days notice. We arrived at 9 and they were ready and waiting for us.

https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8619/2...c7762515_b.jpg Screen Shot 2016-07-29 at 21.37.22 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8632/2...657dff3d_b.jpg Budapest-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8668/2...0dedfd70_b.jpg Budapest by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

That done we headed back north initially to Budakeszi in a fair amount of traffic.

https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8671/2...73411bd8_b.jpg Screen Shot 2016-07-29 at 21.36.30 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Once we started towards Pilisszentkereszt it thinned out.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8621/2...2f08493e_b.jpg Sara Pics-19 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Finally you enter the park and the road was narrow and winding thru the trees. At Esztergom you hit the Danube again and we ran south along it to the village of Visegrad where you can get the ferry across for about 4 E each. It runs every hour and was just returning to our side when we pulled up. It is a barge pulled across the strong current of the river by a tub boat and so not a true ferry in that sense.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8275/2...15e1f76c_b.jpg Screen Shot 2016-07-29 at 21.38.02 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8871/2...17848f70_b.jpg Sara Pics-21 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

On the other side you arrive to the village of Nagymaros and then follow the river on the other bank for a while before heading north east to Felesotold our destination near to Holloko.

https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7541/2...480f9359_b.jpg Screen Shot 2016-07-29 at 21.38.37 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

On the way you pass hundreds of fields of corn and sun flowers.

https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7602/2...07a468b6_b.jpg Sara Pics-20 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8675/2...e34aaf72_b.jpg Sara Pics-22 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7499/2...27bb1726_b.jpg Hungary-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c4.staticflickr.com/9/8162/2...cc0e2cf7_b.jpg Hungary-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

This small village in the hills has many of the old traditional style Hungarian houses in the ancient part of town and at the base of the hill where the castle sits.

https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7482/2...ba011350_b.jpg Sara Pics-23 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c4.staticflickr.com/9/8640/2...8d2e8ef7_b.jpg Sara Pics-24 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

From near to Holloko we went south a short way and then east and into the parks.

https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8687/2...82f167b5_b.jpg Screen Shot 2016-07-29 at 21.40.46 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Part of the route we took was an unmarked crossroad thru the trees. We saw mostly people fishing and picking mushrooms. The road was paved once and is still pretty good, but just off the centre track it is deep bog and very slippery.

https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8860/2...73ec292b_b.jpg Sara CC by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8748/2...4a4d0723_b.jpg Hungary by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Feel like your going Mad sometimes?

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8429/2...1defb33d_b.jpg Sara CC-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Once we got back to the more major road we knew we were on the right track since there was a steady stream of Saturday bikers coming towards us. Also when you get to some intersections there are big signs that say bikers this way with an arrow. The best part of the road was after Sirok and until Lillafured thru the Bukki Nemzeti Park. This is a great narrow curvy road thru a dense forest.

https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8531/2...761a5345_b.jpg Screen Shot 2016-07-30 at 20.38.46 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

From here we routed thru Miskolc and to the wine region around Tokaj. Wine has been made here since BC, but its fame is mostly because of Tokaji aszú wine, the world's oldest botrytized wine.

“Noble rot is the beneficial form of a grey fungus, Botrytis cinerea, affecting wine grapes. Infestation by Botrytis requires moist conditions. If the weather stays wet, the damaging form, "grey rot," can destroy crops of grapes. Grapes typically become infected with Botrytis when they are ripe. If they are then exposed to drier conditions and become partially raisined this form of infection brought about by the partial drying process is known as noble rot. Grapes when picked at a certain point during infestation can produce particularly fine and concentrated sweet wine.”

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8149/2...49c4ab87_b.jpg Hungary-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Then we rode south west to the small town of Tiszadob. To get here you had to cross the river on a small cable ferry. We stayed in a traditional Hungarian house with a straw roof.

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8701/2...fc42eff9_b.jpg

https://c4.staticflickr.com/9/8627/2...9914db5e_b.jpg Sara CC-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8836/2...ea9a07a1_b.jpg Hungary-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8879/2...72506a75_b.jpg Hungary-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Hungary is a nice country. It is very clean. The people are friendly and the drivers are very courteous. They have Goulash which is very delicious!!

"Goulash is a soup or stew of meat and vegetables, seasoned with paprika and other spices. Originating from the medieval Kingdom of Hungary, goulash is also a popular meal in Central Europe, Scandinavia and Southern Europe"

Today the mission is to get to Transylvania (Timisoara) and so we booked it south in eastern Hungary to get to Gyulac and the Romanian border. These may look like highways, but they are secondary roads with very little traffic until you hit the A1 after Arad.

https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8274/2...f3f8f655fa.jpg Screen Shot 2016-08-04 at 18.32.37 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c4.staticflickr.com/9/8199/2...6590082c_b.jpg Sara CC-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

You pass the old and defunct Hungarian border control booths and then pass the welcome to Romania sign before you get to the new border controls. Despite both Hungary and Romania being in the EU there is passport control for the Schengen zone, which Romania is outside of. So not sure why the Hungarian official wanted the bike title, but she did and they exit stamped the passports of course. For Romania they stamped us in, but did not care about the bike papers, and neither wanted to see our green card insurance. They were quite keen to look at our route map on the pannier and all the country flags.

https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8899/2...58b61ae4_b.jpg Sara CC-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8683/2...033894c6_b.jpg Sara CC-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Entering Romania at Arad there are a lot of grand avenues and buildings. We continued from here onto Timisoara.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8599/2...05c8ac5a_b.jpg Sara CC-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Our destination is Oravita only 110 km away, but of course we made a 360 km loop out of it to get to and ride along the Danube.

https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8727/2...6883ee37_b.jpg Sara CC-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8614/2...af119f2e_z.jpg Screen Shot 2016-08-02 at 21.15.39 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We booked it south on the main road to get to Orsova. From here we looped west along the Danube.

https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8887/2...9c972076_b.jpg Sara CC-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

On the way there is a huge rock sculpture.

“The rock sculpture of Decebalus is a 42.9 m in height and 31.6 m in width carving in rock of the face of Decebalus, the last king of Dacia, who fought against the Roman emperors Domitian and Trajan to preserve the independence of his country, which corresponded to modern Romania. The sculpture was made between 1994 and 2004, on a rocky outcrop on the river Danube, at the Iron Gates, which form the border between Romania and Serbia. It is located near the city of Orșova in Romania.”

https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8601/2...bcce98b5_b.jpg Romania-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8157/2...f438f95b_b.jpg Romania-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We turned not again at Moldova Veche and here the road is a good windy mountain crossing in dense forest. This is the first country we have been in that the GPS routing is a real problem. Despite putting waypoints on your road of choice the Montanas just will not route. It is weird especially since the road signs clearly indicate that This way is the correct path to your destination. Because of this we were thankful for the paper map and road signs.

The “one horse” town or Oravita is old school Soviet era buildings.

https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8572/2...29935a79_b.jpg Romania by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

The forecast has gone from nice all week to rain and thunder for the next 2 days. This will require some alteration to the plan as we do not want bad weather for the Transalpina and Transfagarisan roads.

Today it was almost a straight shot east from Oravita to Novaci at the base of the Transalpina road.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8607/2...3f31aef9_b.jpg Screen Shot 2016-08-02 at 21.17.35 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

The first part is on a narrow windy mountain road. It was a bit drizzly and fairly foggy, but at least there was little traffic. This goes thru the Cheile Nerei-Beusnita National park.

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8733/2...f5becce0_b.jpg Sara CC-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8765/2...94a3304f_b.jpg Sara CC-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

You then hit the main road for 20 km and take the road to Targu Jiu. The GPS will not route this way for some reason. This is also a small windy road thru the Domogied-Volea National Park, which has a lot of thermal springs.The road then crosses more farm like lands and you get to the Carpathian foothills.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8372/2...b4c07fc2_b.jpg Sara CC-13 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8600/2...8b87a93b_b.jpg Sara CC-14 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8676/2...f5c45ca3_b.jpg Sara CC-15 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7469/2...8b67de8e_b.jpg Sara CC-16 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

The Town of Novaci has little to offer besides a launching spot for the famous road.

https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8633/2...a5a1bc5e_b.jpg Romania-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We had originally planned to go up the Transalpina and back to Curtea de Arges to the start of the Tranfagarasan so we could go up and back there and then to Bucharest the next day. When we arrived to Novaci there were black storm cloud covering the mountains and it made no sense to attempt the mountain pass today. Plan B was to do two passes in two days, but decided if we awoke to a nice day we would try to do both in one day (340 km , but a 10 hour trip) since the forecast is not that good in the next few days.

https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7761/2...65bf86ce_z.jpg

The pension we stayed at also ran a bakery and they delivered fresh baked loves to us!

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8034/2...ea453472_b.jpg Romania-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c4.staticflickr.com/9/8802/2...d839e3f2_b.jpg Romania by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We got our wish and woke up to a very nice sunny day. Starting out north up the Transalpina there are wide sweeping switchbacks that get tighter as you go higher.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8711/2...78045fe0_z.jpg Screen Shot 2016-08-04 at 18.56.23 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7616/2...c2b3351f_b.jpg Romania-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8193/2...b1a19454_b.jpg Sara CC-17 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

When you get even higher you are in the clouds with limited visibility st the summit. There are the usual tourist stalls here, but very treacherous pull off spots and poor bike parking so we did not stop.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7586/2...17c561f7_b.jpg Sara CC-24 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8858/2...a249b344_b.jpg Sara CC-25 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

On the descent you come out of the clouds to more spectacular views. The road continues north winding thru the valleys. The road surface is intermittently smooth as silk, patchy, and pot holed where large patches have been removed for repairs. At Obarsia Lotrului there are a few stalls and we managed to find a sticker.

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8644/2...a313b356_b.jpg Sara CC-26 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

From here you continue to Sebes and then there is a 100 Km stretch on the highway to make some time and get east to the 7C/Transfagarisan highway.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8711/2...78045fe0_z.jpg Screen Shot 2016-08-04 at 18.56.23 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

You ride across the plain to see the Carpathians rising infront of you. Here we saw a steady stream of bikers, but not as many as we expected.

https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8889/2...15f94e25_z.jpg Screen Shot 2016-08-04 at 18.58.01 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8422/2...a6cd9d45_b.jpg Sara CC-27 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

The ride starts again with some sweeping switchbacks, which tighten as you rise. There is some traffic including sheep jams.

https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8589/2...3fa5f3be_z.jpg Screen Shot 2016-08-04 at 18.58.58 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8620/2...5de6f17b_b.jpg Sara CC-28 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8687/2...38d9f0af_b.jpg Sara CC-29 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

There are a few stalls here for your sticker acquisition. There is also paid parking lots can you believe it!

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8174/2...0fee2176_b.jpg Romania-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

just after the summit is a 1 km long very narrow dark and wet tunnel to the southern summit view spots. From here is is a quick descent to the valley.

https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8747/2...62ac8237_b.jpg Romania-17 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7633/2...690902ce_b.jpg Sara CC-33 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8721/2...91f5fd01_b.jpg Sara CC-34 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Most of the rest of the ride south is along the river valley and for a long way to circumnavigate half of the huge lake.

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8016/2...0a540813_z.jpg Screen Shot 2016-08-16 at 20.22.36 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We arrived to the Camping Arges about 7 pm and set up camp. This is a nice little private camp spot with great facilities including a full kitchen, a washer and dryer! We camped under the fruit trees and awoke to another nice day.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7646/2...e4592b0d_b.jpg Romania-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8778/2...85460fb0_b.jpg Romania-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8347/2...06d52684_b.jpg Romania-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

To be honest its too hot, Bucharest is not that nice and we are exhausted. So we spent 2 days not doing much besides getting the clothes and suits to the laundry mat, sleeping, and catching up on season 6 of game of Thrones!!

https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8469/2...7a7db5bc_b.jpg Bucharest Romania CC by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8654/2...c792ec4b_b.jpg Romania-15 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8052/2...1872f2b5_b.jpg Romania_-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8835/2...f1a89859_b.jpg Romania_-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8828/2...534f56cd_b.jpg Romania_-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8799/2...3da21b8b_b.jpg Romania_-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

It was also very hot so we did not feel the need to venture out until after 6 pm except to get our clothes and very stinky riding shuts to the laundromat. Romania is a bit rough around the edge and does not have a European feel about it. The drivers are impatient, aggressive, and pass in unbelievably dangerous locations especially for ultrapassing a line of cars/trucks. In general we are a bit disappointed in Romania. I think we had built it up to much from all we had heard about how amazing the riding is. Now the Transaalpina and Transfagarisan are nice, but they are not the Gavia, Stelvio, or Grossglockner. Between the interesting bits there is just tons of traffic and not much else over large distances.

From the capital we wanted to make some tracks back to the north, but did want to stop by to see Bran or Dracula’s castle. We took the “main road”, which is a dual lane road thru many small towns. There was an almost 10 km stretch of cars where the road goes to 1 lane where traffic is essentially stopped. Passing on the right of the right lane was hard as there was little room and a deep ditch as well. Finally we had to pass the left lane on the left in the oncoming lane and cut back in when we could this worked well for a while, but in the end we lost 2 hours to traffic today. Driving thru Bran was also 1 lane and mobbed with Saturday tourists.

https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8561/2...4628b65917.jpg Screen Shot 2016-08-08 at 21.59.18 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8653/2...b8e1ed4b_b.jpg Bran Romania-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We did a drive by and then headed back on the secondary access, which is partly gravel.

https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8180/2...4daf6cdb_b.jpg Romania_-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8504/2...2dbd2d7f_b.jpg Romania_-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7630/2...00ef467e_b.jpg Bran Romania-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

From here we had less traffic, but had to wait 20 min at a train crossing as the gates were down long before the train crossed.

https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8304/2...96836aa5_b.jpg Bran Romania-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8618/2...dc26f28a_b.jpg Bran Romania-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Luckily we had the GPS coords of the campground at Sovata and we pulled in there about 630. We had a nice spot under a big apple tree. This spot has pretty good facilities. We were very hot and very thirsty. I saw another camper with beer bottles he was returning and asked if he spoke English. He did not, but when i asked where he got the beer he said he would get us some while he was there. Fantastic we had beer delivery for tent set up! We met Andy and Vanessa traveling in their Yellow WV van and they invited us over to share a bottle of real Champagne! We had a pretty good night with only a few apples dropping on the tent in the night!!

https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8765/2...2a6fa37e_b.jpg Romania_-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We did however see a lot of bikers today. This Romania rider pulled up beside Dan and asked “are you really from Canada?” After the short version of the story he said “respect”.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8435/2...a15f2732_b.jpg Dornei Romania CC-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8427/2...6258d099_b.jpg Dornei Romania CC-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

The 650 has just not been handling normally for the last 2 days. I just could not figure out exactly what the issue was. After a couple of hours of very rough paved road and about 60 km from our destination the rear shock on the 650 did not feel at all good. We pulled right over and it was spewing oil and was totally blown! %$#@!!

https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8634/2...9eabbd7d_b.jpg Romania_-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8828/2...1660099b_b.jpg Romania by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We headed to the campground and as it looks like rain and they have very cheap nice cabins (50 ron= 13$) we booked onto one. There was no wifi so we walked to the center and the first restaurant we found was packed and had great wifi. Here we sent off some mails and pleas for assistance. We found the nearest large EU and Schengen city is Kosice Slovakia 470 km away and so we are headed there. They at least have a KTM shop and hopefully can help us out. We can remove the shock look at what it needs and ship it to Madrid to DMX if worse comes to worse. This does kibosh the plan a bit since we were headed east to Moldova and not west again. If we can get this fixed and not loose more than a week we will back track thru the south of the Ukraine to Moldova and then to kiev, Liviv and to Krakow. This likely means we do not have time for much else in Poland, the rest of Slovakia, and the Czech republic. The later 2 are not a big deal as they are on the route south next year to Armenia…. Time is running out this year as we have to be in Leipzig in 28 days.

Good news today we had reply from my HU and ADV posts and both recommended K-moto in Kosice and fellow rider Bevin in Slovakia has set up the contact. This is what can happen when you order breakfast and do not speak the language. We ordered one omelet with cheese and one with cheese and mushrooms. At least we got the two cappuccinos.

https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8635/2...6db1c9af_b.jpg Romania_-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8851/2...4fc4584d_b.jpg Romania_-13 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We awoke to a very nice sunny day and just 200 km to Kosice. We devised a basically diagonal route that was the shorter distance, but the same time as the 80 km longer major road route.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8655/2...0d3ff9eb_z.jpg Screen Shot 2016-08-08 at 22.02.26 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

The road surfaces were mostly pretty good especially after we left Romania for Hungary. We had a short stop at the border for the Schengen passport control and we were on our way. They are smart here they have a sign that says toll vignettes are needed and a place to buy them just before the border if you did not do that on line already.

https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8110/2...c28319f9_b.jpg Kosice CC by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c4.staticflickr.com/9/8330/2...ae382a89_b.jpg Kosice CC-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8610/2...7c87149b_b.jpg Kosice CC-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

There is no border control for Slovakia as it is both in the EU and Schengen zone. The route was on small narrow roads thru clean quite villages until basically you arrive to the outskirts of the s second largest city in Slovakia.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8625/2...bb72a89d_b.jpg Kosice CC-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We headed straight to K-moto to meet with the owner Kamil to sort out what we can do. They will look at the bike this afternoon. They want us to get a new Tourtech shock, which is actually the easiest and cheapest at 150 including shipping or to send ours to Touratech Prague for service. The issue is my shock is Touratech outside and custom DMX inside. If we just go with a new Touratech it does not come in short spring size, and if they rebuild it they will replace inside and it will again not be custom lowered like mine. If we have to ship I think better to DMX in Madrid. Our luck there is a pretty nice pension almost across the road from the shop and they had a room for the next few days if we needed.

https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8217/2...cfeacec2_z.jpg IMG_7002 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

It is very hot here in Kosice today and after dropping the bike off at K-moto we walked over to the mall to enjoy the air con and a very good meal at the Vietnamese takeout! We got in some Olympic coverage and saw Canada take the bronze in women’s synchronized diving! YEAH Canada! By 7 it had cooled off enough for a walk and we caught a glimpse of the very nice looking city centre from the hill side. When we arrived back there was a business card taped to the door of our room with a yellow post it note that said “Please call me” and a number. The card was from a realtor and when i looked him up I was pretty sure we had not met. As we don’t have a phone I sent an email that said as much and “i’m sorry do we know you?’….Silver lining.

https://c4.staticflickr.com/9/8623/2...cf80b3ea_z.jpg FullSizeRender by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c4.staticflickr.com/9/8849/2...0e63bac3_z.jpg IMG_6982 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Well more good news today at K moto the shock itself is good, but the seals are blow from overheating. They did all the repairs, replaced the front fork oil and mounted a new front tire.

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8235/2...08cde309_b.jpg Slovakia-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Today it is much cooler and cloudy. When we arrived at Kmoto in the morning we met Tomas, the owner of the yellow post it note. The story is funny. He was at the shop dropping his bike the day before and saw my BC plate. He took a photo and called his wife to say “ I saw a bike at the shop from Canada. They are traveling around the world. I want to meet them. Come over and speak English for me” So the note! We made a plan to meet for dinner. It began to rain very heavily about 4 pm and continued on and off.

Tomas and Majka picked us up and we made a tour of the centre with stops at several awesome locals. We had some great craft beer, traditional Slovakian food, and more beer!

https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8147/2...f35cc50e_b.jpg Slovakia by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8650/2...5e04881d_b.jpg Slovakia-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8432/2...93bb9f8b_b.jpg Slovakia-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

These people are incredible! Tomas has been all over on his many different bikes over the years. His trips include Tunisia, Syria, Jordan, Israel, all over Europe, and a circle of the Black sea! They are so hospitable! They even made us a huge goodbye breakfast to send us off to the Ukraine.

https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8838/2...d1de5908_b.jpg Slovakia-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8618/2...1e8836f1_b.jpg Slovakia-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8710/2...c66288a5_b.jpg Slovakia-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7570/2...c0806af7_b.jpg Slovakia-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Today it is cool and cloudy, but not raining. We set off from K-moto about 11 for the 90 km to the Ukraine border.

https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8320/2...980ffbd3_b.jpg Screen Shot 2016-08-12 at 21.17.41 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8633/2...463a85b1_b.jpg Stryi CC by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

The first step was to get in the long line of cars to exit Slovakia. Luckily after about 2 minutes the official came over and waved us around the line and up to the front. Here they wanted the passports and the bike documents. There was some serious checking of the VIN and papers to exit the EU. I think because once they leave if the are stolen vehicles they are gone gone gone once they enter Ukraine and so they are super careful. At first there was some issue and several of the official consulted about our bike titles. They could not believe our bike papers were a single flimsy sheet from ICBC that looks fake. Now were have been to 59 countries so far and no one has questioned the authenticity of our papers. I admit they look pretty pathetic and there are no fancy stamps, embossing or other “important document” stuff. Finally they agreed to accept the titles. We were waved thru the gate to no mans land.

https://c4.staticflickr.com/9/8775/2...422abae5_b.jpg Stryi CC-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8883/2...41cfdb8a_b.jpg Stryi CC-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8545/2...e41ec567_b.jpg Stryi CC-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Here you drive up to a rusty metal gate blocking the road at the X-ray machine and a guy with a machine gun. Here they hand you a small slip of paper on which they write your plate number. From experience when you get one of these at a border there are usually several hoops to jump thru and you get a number of stamps and signatures on this paper, which must be presented at a similar gate beyond the border area.

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8735/2...0f0061ae_b.jpg Stryi CC-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8699/2...449fcca6_b.jpg Stryi CC-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

They let the vehicles thru in batches. Next you drive up to Ukraine border control and to the green “nothing to declare” lane. When we got to the front the first official asked for the passports. Another then wanted the bike documents. Here again there was an agonizing 30 minutes while they kept coming back and forth to us and the bikes and asking for the rest of the bike documents. They also could not believe these were the only papers we have for the bikes. No one of course spoke and English. They asked for our green card next, which we know is not valid for the Ukraine and we must buy insurance here and said that. We though for sure we were going to get denied entry. As this was taking so lone we were asked to move the bikes ahead of the booths and off to the side. A good sign we thought. Finally after another 10 minutes of discussion an over 6 ft woman wearing 5 inch black patton platform pumps and the shortest uniform skirt you can imagine was called over. She seems in Charge. She spoke English well and again asked us to give them the rest of the bike papers. Finally they decided to believe us and she process the papers for us.

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8752/2...88605c59_b.jpg Stryi CC-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

After this we were waved thru to the last check where our small white slip now covered with stamps and signatures was collected. The nice guard there then said “welcome to Ukraine have nice trip”. We made it!!!

https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8887/2...1c1b6c85_b.jpg Stryi CC-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c4.staticflickr.com/9/8705/2...21f5581e_b.jpg Stryi CC-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Ha ha I think you got the same border guard as us when we went to the Ukraine, or her sister, 6 foot tall blonde straight out of James Bond movie, must be a pre requisite

Ride safe

Gino

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rondelli (Post 545351)

Ha ha I think you got the same border guard as us when we went to the Ukraine, or her sister, 6 foot tall blonde straight out of James Bond movie, must be a pre requisite

Ride safe

Gino

I so wanted a picture of here, but no way that was going to happen!! Ha ha

sp

From the border we planned to stick to the more main roads since we had a late start, a long way to go and we did not know how long the border would take (our friends waited 4 hours on their last visit). The road surfaces were pretty good and the rain mostly held off. It is however a chilly 11 degrees.

https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8197/2...41f77dc9_b.jpg Stryi CC-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8347/2...3ca70ee0_b.jpg Ukraine-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8608/2...9cdf4f39_b.jpg Ukraine-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8747/2...2e2149c5_b.jpg Ukraine by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8684/2...81409e28_b.jpg Ukraine-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

The tradition here is no traffic in either direction passes a funeral procession. Even on the highway! This was a long slow up hill crawl!

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8622/2...0213bdcc_b.jpg Kamyanets UA CC-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Since we did not stop to get money yet we decided to try our luck at the Wog gas station. They have very nice cafes and we had “moo” burger with fries!

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8019/2...e60d70a0_b.jpg Ukraine-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We did finally get to Stryi at 6 (it is 1 hour later here). When we pulled into the hotel and checked in there was a group of Ukrainian guys in the lobby having some drinks and snacks. One spoke English perfectly and came out to talk to us. He asked how we liked Ukraine and we said we did , but we had only been here a few hours. He noticed my panier with the flags and wanted to know why I did not have Ukraine on yet. I said I just go here and his reply “ you have had 3 hours” ha ha. He wanted a photo of me putting the flag on. Next they invited us for a shot of whiskey.

https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8825/2...7d98320c_b.jpg Ukraine-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We walked next door to the restaurant and with no English help we managed to get soup, salads, and a nice lemon cake for dessert. Next time I might try my “point it” book.

https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7648/2...b315ecd2_b.jpg Stryi CC-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8746/2...dc9715fe_b.jpg Stryi CC-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We woke to a rainy day. The plan today is to go 330 km to one of the oldest cities in Ukraine Kam’yanets-Podil’s’kyi.

https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7561/2...acb6aab7_b.jpg Screen Shot 2016-08-12 at 21.18.58 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We first stopped at the auto insurance shop in town to see if we can but green cards. We had a hard enough time getting into this country we are worried that if we go to Moldova we might not be let back in. No luck however. The side stand on the 800 seemed a bit loose and on inspection the lower bolt was sheared off. Strike 2. We did zip tie and wire the stand to prevent any loss and headed out. Step 2 get gas ….no power at the station strike 3. They did have a money exchange to get some cash though! This came in handy about 45 minutes later when we drove by a motorcycle repair shop.

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8562/2...1fe86c4d_b.jpg Kamyanets UA CC by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We arrived to the city and the sun was now trying to come out. We did a bit of a walk around the old town and visited some of the many churches. There is a vey nice fortress here too.

https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8826/2...3277857e_b.jpg Kamyanets UA CC-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8643/2...be876d2e_b.jpg Kamyanets UA CC-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8226/2...69d5c0e3_b.jpg Kamyanets UA CC-13 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

“Modern Kamianets-Podilskyi was first mentioned in 1062 as a town of the Kievan Rus' state. In 1241, it was destroyed by the Mongolian invaders.[4] In 1352, it was annexed by the Polish King Casimir III. In 1378 it became seat of a Roman Catholic Diocese. In 1432 King Sigismund I the Old granted Kamieniec Podolski city rights. In 1434 it became the capital of the Podolian Voivodship and the seat of local civil and military administration.[4] The ancient castle was reconstructed and substantially expanded by the Polish kings to defend Poland from the southwest against Ottoman and Tatar invasions, thus it was called the gateway to Poland.”

https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8861/2...cfb98d04_b.jpg Ukraine-14 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8582/2...361e1e46_b.jpg Ukraine by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8763/2...a263d2c2_b.jpg Ukraine-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

It is a bit warmer today at 15 and the sun is trying to come out. We need to try to get insurance if we want to go to Moldova. There is one agency listed in this town. When we had the hotel call all we got was the answering machine. When we went to the address the neighbors say the place is closed down.

https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8004/2...36833b4a_b.jpg Zhytomir UA CC by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Well decision made. We are headed towards Kiev. Today we will go the 280 km to Zhytomyr and this will take about 6 hours despite what google maps says.

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8856/2...07e5c007_z.jpg Screen Shot 2016-08-13 at 22.16.29 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8557/2...70fdf9c4_b.jpg Zhytomir UA CC-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Today started out cloudy and gloomy, but dry. We only had 140 km to Kiev on the highway, which is smooth as silk, but decided on the 186 km route thru Fastiv. You go 30 km on the highway and then exit to the village roads. The first 20 km of these roads were pretty bad, but then improved since there was little traffic and no trucks. Check out the centre line.

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8485/2...5d2f7549_b.jpg Kiev CC by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8281/2...9ba0e0fe_b.jpg Kiev CC-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8728/2...9fc72e53_b.jpg Kiev CC-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8205/2...d2e3be16_b.jpg Kiev CC-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8114/2...1bcc086f_b.jpg Ukraine by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8088/2...656c5d87_b.jpg Kiev CC-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Leaving Fastiv you do get on the P19, which is a major road under construction and the surface is pretty bad in sections. It is Sunday an a major religious holiday here so getting into the city was pretty easy. We had chosen an old school hotel right out of the Soviet era in design and Motel 6 cheap as well.

https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8341/2...ef176aa3_b.jpg Kiev CC-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8530/2...bfbd498c_b.jpg Ukraine-32 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

From the main square we made for the huge Friendship of Nations arch.

“It is dedicated to the unification of Russia and Ukraine within the Soviet Union. It was opened November 7, 1982 to commemorate the 60th Anniversary of the USSR and the celebration of the 1,500th Anniversary of the Kiev city. On 20 May 2016 the Ukrainian government announced plans to dismantle the arch as part of its decommunization policy. In its place is planned a memorial dedicated to veterans of the Russian-Ukrainian war.”

“The monument consists of three sculptural elements an arch and two statues.

1.A huge, 50 m (164 ft) in diameter, rainbow-shaped arch, made of titanium.
2. A bronze statue depicting a Russian and Ukrainian workers holding up the Soviet Order of Friendship of Peoples
3.A granite stele depicting the participants of the Pereyaslav Council of 1654.”

https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8501/2...2581b63d_b.jpg Ukraine-13 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

There are several spectacular churches nearby including St. Andrews with its golden spires and the St. Sophia Cathedral. Inside the first we found scarlet robed monks chanting and singing in front of the gold encrusted alter. There are no seats in the church and the faithful stand in a semicircle around the monks. It was now after 6 and St. Sophia was unfortunately closed for the day.

https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8024/2...bba78f32_b.jpg Ukraine-15 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Today the weather is much better and sunny, but windy. We walked thru the Mariyinski park and past the palace, which is the official ceremonial residence of the President of the Ukraine and which is under major renovation.

https://c6.staticflickr.com/9/8372/2...951888c0_b.jpg Ukraine-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Next stop is at the Memorial of eternal Glory,

“The Park of Eternal Glory to the Soldiers of The World War II has a spectacular view on the city and it showcases the monuments dedicated to those who gave up their lives while protecting the Motherland. The Glory Obelisk takes the central place in the park. It was installed in 1957. At the pedestal of 26meter stella you can find a Grave of an Unknown Soldier. The Eternal Fire also reminds us about heroic deeds of our ancestors. The Flame for ceremonial opening was brought directly from the field of the Stalingrad battle.”

Also located here is the memorial to the victims of Holodomor. The monument to the Victims of Starvation Times 1932-1933. In the center of the monument you can see a bell tower in shape of a burning candle. “

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8331/2...1acbd8fa_b.jpg Ukraine-18 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We then walked down to the open air part of the Museum of the history of the Ukraine in WW2. There are a large collection of military items and sculptures depicting war time struggles. The museum is dominated by the Mother of the Fatherland statue.

“The Motherland Monument is a monumental statue of stainless steel that stands 62 m (203 ft) tall upon the museum building with the overall structure measuring 102 m (335 ft) and weighing 560 tons. The sword in the statue's right hand is 16 m (52 ft) long weighing 9 tons, with the left hand holding up a 13 by 8 m (43 by 26 ft) shield with the State Emblem of the Soviet Union. The Memorial hall of the Museum displays marble plaques with carved names of more than 11,600 soldiers and over 200 workers of the home-front honoured during the war with the title of the Hero of the Soviet Union and the Hero of Socialist Labor. The sword of the statue was cut because the tip of the sword was higher than the cross of the Kiev Pechersk Lavra monastery”

https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8451/2...4f8a90aa_b.jpg Ukraine-25 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8491/2...21a61db5_b.jpg Ukraine-23 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c8.staticflickr.com/9/8010/2...7e1f601a_b.jpg Ukraine-24 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8022/2...c107033d_b.jpg Ukraine-26 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8317/2...52f5fd67_b.jpg Ukraine-21 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8017/2...50dcc600_b.jpg Ukraine-22 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

This is where we were headed next. This is a huge complex of churches that is inside a small walled city inside Kiev. Here all women must be wearing a skirt or borrow one there and they must cover their hair inside the churches and the caves.

“Kiev Pechersk Lavra also known as the Kiev Monastery of the Caves, has since its foundation in 1051 been a preeminent center of Eastern Orthodox Christianity in Eastern Europe. Together with the Saint Sophia Cathedral, it is inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. While being a cultural attraction, the monastery is currently active. It was named one of the Seven Wonders of Ukraine on 21 August 2007”

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8334/2...3c8092cd_b.jpg Ukraine-19 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8515/2...88092dc1_b.jpg Ukraine-20 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

One of the most interesting things to visit are the caves. To get there you must find the entry (ask we had to even after following the caves this way signs), which is at the bottom of a very long covered freestanding stairway. Both sides of the narrow lane are lined with stalls selling candles, honey, flowers, and other religious items. Once you have run the gauntlet there is a sign that says cave entrance. There is no entry fee, but you must buy a bees wax candle for 3 Hryvina (about .15 $ Canadian) and you will need it. Once you descend the stair to the cave system it is pitch black except the candle lights. Walking into a tunnel is like going into deep space. Along the walls are carved out areas that the monks created to display the sacred relics. Here you can see the caskets and bodies of Eastern Orthodox religious figures. It is very dark, very hot, and very crowded down here and so is not for the even mildly claustrophobic. There is a larger “room” which was crowded with the faithful and a service was going on. Most of the people are here to pray and honour those buried here. The tradition is of one kissing the relic after saying a quick blessing.

“The Kiev Pechersk Lavra caverns are a very complex system of narrow underground corridors (about 1-1½ metres wide and 2-2½ metres high), along with numerous living quarters and underground chapels. In 1051, the monk Anthony had settled in an old cave in one of the hills surrounding the Kiev Pechersk Lavra. This cave apparently grew, with numerous additions including corridors and a church, and is now what we know as the Far Caves. In 1057, Anthony moved to a cave near the Upper Lavra, now called the Near Caves.” There are over a hundred burials in the Lavra.

https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8311/2...0886c8b3_b.jpg Ukraine-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8005/2...f971e404_b.jpg Ukraine-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8138/2...ccbf981b_b.jpg Ukraine-27 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8264/2...7166b7d5_b.jpg Ukraine-28 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8263/2...eec9aa4c_b.jpg Ukraine-29 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8764/2...5cb9157a_b.jpg Ukraine-14 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8271/2...a9d30069_b.jpg Ukraine-17 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c1.staticflickr.com/9/8393/2...c0c1a6fc_b.jpg Ukraine-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c3.staticflickr.com/9/8198/2...cab4891e_b.jpg Ukraine-30 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c7.staticflickr.com/9/8782/2...ee1706a1_b.jpg Ukraine-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://c5.staticflickr.com/9/8138/2...f68ba133_b.jpg Ukraine-33 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr