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We were glad to meet up with Sergio, Mary, Sara, and Mario who were so excited about our trip.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7051/...153f8546_b.jpgRoberto by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7518/...deb1b9c9_b.jpgRoberto by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr The guys decide to go thru the construction zone. To give Roberto credit he did ask this guy who said we could get thru….ahh not. We managed to make it home on Saturday 10 minutes before the torrential rain started, but 20 min after it did on Sunday! https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7707/...a783e8e0_b.jpgFILE1962 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7694/...81d47d99_b.jpgFILE1964 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7576/...1d146518_b.jpgFILE1969 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
We have booked ferry tickets to Bastia,Corsica from Livorno, Italy. We chose this crossing since it is only 4 1/2 hours and leaves and arrives in the day time. The more southern crossing to Sardinia is an overnight ferry with the need for an expensive stateroom. The ferry is also a lot cheaper on Tuesday and so we have a day to ride in Tuscany instead of riding directly the 185 km to the ferry we did 346 km, which took 8 hours.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7493/...c7d7efa0b0.jpgcorsica_ferries_map by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7781/...655ea626_z.jpgScreen Shot 2016-05-10 at 22.00.19 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
First we backtracked a bit from Roberto’s over some of the roads we had been on just so we could get south. We traveled on the tiny roads south to Bagni san Filipo and then over the mountains to Pitigliano.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7789/...27b3d7db_b.jpgFILE2017 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7101/...f0c5f6fe_b.jpg https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7255/...1bc50f39_b.jpgRoberto Villa-17 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7566/...10d92fd6_b.jpgFILE2026 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7230/...54b6e3d0_b.jpgRoberto Villa-19 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7769/...248f3d0e_b.jpgFILE2028 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7213/...fd2ec052_b.jpgFILE2029 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
Pitigliano is perched on the shear cliff side. They have dug caves into the walls and there are shops and businesses inside them.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7643/...c1a3a8c5_b.jpgRoberto Villa-22 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7765/...462ab4cc_b.jpgFILE2048 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7630/...78a34649_b.jpgFILE2074 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7667/...1aa4b92a_b.jpgFILE2084 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7067/...6f132a0b_b.jpgRoberto Villa-23 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
From here we continued west to Termes di Saturnia, but did not visit as the smell of the sulphur from the road was enough for us. We did have to stop at an ATM to get cash since the unattended gas pumps sometimes will not take a chip card.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7007/...f3ff3760_b.jpgFILE2095 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7463/...a01d21e5_b.jpgFILE2122 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr Then we went north again to visit the Abbey at San Galgano. “The Abbey of Saint Galgano was a Cistercian Monastery found in the valley of the river Merse between the towns of Chiusdino and Monticiano, in Tuscany. Presently, the roofless walls of the Gothic style 13th-century Abbey church still stand. Nearby are the chapel or Eremo or Rotonda di Montesiepi (1185), the tomb of Saint Galgano and the purported site of his death in 1181, the sword said to have been planted in the ground by Galgano and a chapel with frescoes by Ambrogio Lorenzetti.” https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7326/...1962cb19_b.jpgRoberto Villa-25 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7158/...bfdf59fd_b.jpgRoberto Villa-26 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7146/...a68ba72b_b.jpgRoberto Villa-24 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
They were very organized with the loading and the staff and signage on the car decks. They were quick to set up all the bikes and each spot was already laid out with tie downs. Dan had to duck so as not to hit his head on the upper deck.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7754/...64f85805_b.jpgFILE2251 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7551/...b4d1dc75_b.jpgFILE2255 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7726/...bc1f9a93_b.jpgFILE2261 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7139/...9ab11710_b.jpgFILE2270 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7057/...0e0ff68f_b.jpgCorsica by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
We got up on deck and scored some comfy deck chairs to work on our tans.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7052/...fdc621c0_b.jpgCorsica-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7580/...9e1313d8_b.jpgCorsica-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr It was a very calm sunny crossing, but arriving in Corsica it was totally fogged in. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7792/...ef21803c_b.jpgCorsica-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flick |
We disembarked at 715 and so our plan to ride a bit was kiboshed by the time and the weather. We had a 23 km ride from the port of Bastia to the seaside town of Saint Florent, but this was over a high pass and took 45 minutes.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7206/...9373d935_b.jpgFILE2298 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7151/...ddb56f91_b.jpgFILE2305 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7650/...7f9d6142_b.jpg The fog hampered visibility to the point I could not even see Daniel in front of me and this was over steep hairpin switchbacks. It was extremely windy as well making for a stressful half hour. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7779/...de4b1c4d_b.jpgFILE2332 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7567/...defe2bc9_b.jpgFILE2343 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr On the other side of the pass the weather was still very windy, but much better. Arriving at the hotel we found a dozen other bike already parked there. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7285/...aaf17c3d_b.jpgFILE2347 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7393/...48e8b05f_b.jpgFILE2355 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr We did a small tour of the sea side and had cheese and crackers for dinner since we could not stomach another bad and expensive tourist meal in the local restaurants. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7028/...d1f70189_b.jpgCorsica-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
The forecast was for rainy weather, but it was downgraded to occasional thunder showers in spots, but we got up to a cloudy but dry day. Step one was to head back over the pass(still foggy but better) to Bastia since we wanted to ride around the Cap Corsica (the northern peninsula), but counter clock-wise so as to be on the sea side lane while riding.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7547/...10c1bacb_z.jpgScreen Shot 2016-05-11 at 22.11.38 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7526/...53383d94_b.jpgScreen Shot 2016-05-11 at 22.12.23 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr Everyone all set to go in different directions. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7314/...9e6cca19_b.jpgCorsica-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
It was nice leaving Saint Florent, but of course the pass was a white out, but not nearly as bad as the previous evening for fog or the howling wind.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7359/...e3e95771_b.jpgFILE2380 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7508/...2706fa5b_b.jpgFILE2390 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr Headed up the east coast of the cape! https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7710/...5694abed_b.jpgFILE2393 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7145/...15f4caaa_b.jpgFILE2401 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7400/...6d3267f0_b.jpgFILE2416 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7400/...6392f4d2_b.jpgFILE2430 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7355/...93cb0193_b.jpgCorsica-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7656/...3942992d_b.jpgCorsica-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7496/...78fe2879_b.jpgFILE2445 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
The weather held out and was actually sunny and hot by the time we got to the small roads to the tiny sea side towns of the north cape.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7033/...3f8235ea_b.jpgFILE2472 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7571/...c74ca1d4_b.jpgFILE2478 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7777/...455eb399_b.jpgFILE2502 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7146/...e64ae2fb_b.jpgFILE2505 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
NORD!
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7112/...1ebbf05a_b.jpgCorsica-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7730/...f72a2bfc_b.jpgCorsica-13 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7101/...9b1974cb_b.jpgCorsica-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7522/...9f506530_b.jpgIMG_5863 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7709/...217346d8_b.jpgIMG_5867 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7423/...ea1ab23e_b.jpgIMG_5865 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7347/...e0b57633_b.jpgIMG_5866 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7056/...50227b1b_b.jpgIMG_5872 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
On the ride back south on the west of the peninsula the road hangs on the cliff side with spectacular views of the aqua blue ocean.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7623/...b5e8eb45_b.jpgIMG_5875 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7594/...691fd5c2_b.jpgIMG_5881 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7342/...f2bd3f33_b.jpgFILE2532 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7770/...5e9a2f85_b.jpgIMG_5883 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7611/...e19a9539_b.jpgFILE2548 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr These guys did not think the counter clockwise think thru! https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7431/...62bb070b_b.jpgFILE2557 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
The wild west coast of the Cape.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7550/...0b158cdb_b.jpgFILE2597 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7628/...dbb6a399_b.jpgCorsica-16 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7547/...21fb22c6_b.jpgFILE2618 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7573/...015e2291_b.jpgFILE2621 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7171/...477fea7c_b.jpgCorsica-15 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7717/...f225ab23_b.jpgCorsica-14 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7540/...519b1a33_b.jpgFILE2657 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
We arrived to Lile-Rousse just before the torrents of rain started! It did not last too long.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7677/...7d539a67_b.jpgCorsica by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr The forecast is still sketchy, but despite that we woke to sunshine again. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7330/...5ee71a81_b.jpgCorsica-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr After a brief stop for gas and then at a bakery of coffee and a croissant we were excited to see the wild west coast of Corsica. We planned a 255 km route to stick as much as possible along the shore to Propriano. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7138/...157e7a28_z.jpgScreen Shot 2016-05-12 at 19.22.57 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
The road at time was very narrow and hanging on the cliff. The views of the crystal blue sea were stunning.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7218/...f571d3a0_b.jpgCorsica-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7442/...a1494237_b.jpgFILE2760 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7063/...b1655139_b.jpgCorsica-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7558/...d527eaff_b.jpgFILE2755 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7077/...010879b3_b.jpgFILE2775 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7479/...259daee0_b.jpgFILE2757 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7659/...3fc25bc5_b.jpgFILE2778 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7060/...e5b7d416_b.jpgCorsica-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7605/...265e4c83_b.jpgFILE2788 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7789/...1efef352_b.jpgFILE2780 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7140/...400edd36_b.jpgCorsica-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7728/...64767762_b.jpgCorsica-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7686/...ea89a528_b.jpgFILE2828 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7534/...a095b5b6_b.jpgFILE2829 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7187/...6589bba4_b.jpgFILE2888 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7785/...a507f247_b.jpgFILE2889 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7324/...7d2f4dbc_b.jpgFILE2895 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7276/...105657d4_b.jpgCorsica-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7673/...646d2b19_b.jpgFILE2916 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
Sometimes there were some obstacles on the road!
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7127/...18099e32_b.jpgFILE2852 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7050/...c81cc711_b.jpgFILE2855 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr Stopped for the selfie of the day! https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7646/...17f7bee4_b.jpgCorsica-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7245/...c44048fe_b.jpgIMG_5892 (1) by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr The small hotel on the private beach was right in the town. It was sunny for a short time and Daniel took a plunge in the frigid water. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7261/...42092dc9_b.jpgCorsica-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7787/...6edcb1be_b.jpgCorsica by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
Todays forecast is for rain at times, but we were again mostly lucky. The plan was to take some of the mountain roads in the south of the island and then head for the 5 pm ferry to Sardinia.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7199/...ed81ba8a_b.jpgScreen Shot 2016-05-14 at 18.32.32 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr We started out on a small paved road that then was not paved and fairly rain damaged. This was ok on the street tires, but it soon became a dirt bike no pannier road and we had to turn around. Sorry no photos of the bad bit too busy driving to turn on the camera! https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7632/...425b1df9_b.jpgBonifacio CC by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7772/...af4bb558_b.jpgBonifacio CC-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7627/...504c19cf_b.jpgBonifacio CC-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7182/...d9e5ea20_b.jpgBonifacio CC-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
Oh well we rerouted and found some great roads up over the mountains and thru sell villages hanging on the cliffs.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7270/...72025646_b.jpgBonifacio CC-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr Then we headed up onto the pass for some spectacular scenery and a cool 9 degrees. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7023/...312dd4e0_b.jpgSanta Teresa Gullara CC by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7061/...6637c280_b.jpgSanta Teresa Gullara CC-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7716/...94e0b306_b.jpgCorsica by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7377/...f31190e2_b.jpgCorsica-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7524/...d88eaaa7_b.jpgSanta Teresa Gullara CC-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr We did get caught in a short downpour on one of the passes, but the worst was when we were in the store getting groceries so we miss the bad part. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7712/...6b0e9bdb_b.jpgSanta Teresa Gullara CC-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7174/...01a1f23e_b.jpgSanta Teresa Gullara CC-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
Arriving at Bonifacio we saw the stunning fort on the hill, but decided to go to the ferry to see about tickets and come back to see the very cute town. The time was 255 and the 330 ferry was in the dock. The ticket guy said the 5 pm was likely full and we did not want to chance it. A bonus was this ferry line is 10 E cheaper per bike for the crossing than the Moby line listed online.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7485/...3c88653a_b.jpgSanta Teresa Gullara CC-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7667/...18cf2be7_b.jpgSanta Teresa Gullara CC-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7004/...f1116bcc_b.jpgSanta Teresa Gullara CC-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7730/...161fe72d_b.jpgSanta Teresa Gullara CC-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7098/...fcbf48dd_b.jpgSanta Teresa Gullara CC-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7361/...3c6a2fc9_b.jpgSanta Teresa Gullara CC-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7393/...171d4faf_b.jpgSanta Teresa Gullara CC-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7502/...f637459f_b.jpgSardinia-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7014/...5fa1e18e_b.jpgSardinia by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
We did get some incredible views as we were leaving the harbour.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7667/...1d4f6be9_b.jpgCorsica-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7688/...6cccdde8_b.jpgCorsica-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7610/...36f42068_b.jpgSanta Teresa Gullara CC-15 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7039/...d0fef755_b.jpgSanta Teresa Gullara CC-16 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7077/...2d43cff3_b.jpgSanta Teresa Gullara CC-17 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
The crossing is about an hour and a half and on this very nice day quite rough. I’d hate to go on a bad day.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7779/...99daef28_z.jpgScreen Shot 2016-05-14 at 18.34.04 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7249/...66cc67b04f.jpgScreen Shot 2016-05-14 at 18.33.02 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7310/...787df7d3_b.jpgSanta Teresa Gullara CC-18 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
We arrived to Santa Teresa Gallura and the sun was shining.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7162/...4fc1f917_b.jpgSardinia-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7293/...36d51ed6_b.jpgSanta Teresa Gullara CC-13 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr We rode out to the near by Cabo Testa. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7400/...10252855_b.jpgScreen Shot 2016-05-15 at 22.27.10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7650/...a0a8a2f3_b.jpgSanta Teresa Gullara CC-14 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7680/...b8c572c3_b.jpgSardinia-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7045/...55a77b1f_b.jpgSardinia-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7120/...e79590da_b.jpgSardinia-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
Today we have planned some coastal and mountain riding for about 240 km to Alghero.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7715/...4f8515fa_b.jpgScreen Shot 2016-05-14 at 18.38.35 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7439/...dcf10e7e_b.jpgScreen Shot 2016-05-14 at 18.34.57 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr The forecast today is 80 % rain until noon an then 20%. The weather is moving away from us and so we had a late start at 11 almost managed to avoid the rain. That said we had cloud and some drizzle for less than an hour. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7707/...feceabf3_b.jpgAlghero CC by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7245/...f2357dc6_b.jpgAlghero CC-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7407/...9be0bea4_b.jpgAlghero CC-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7749/...49711469_b.jpgSardinia by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
The sun was out by the time we arrived to the famous La Pelosa beach near Stintino. The colour of the water here is unbelievable.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7540/...1c20d29b_b.jpgSardinia-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7361/...46fa4aa5_b.jpgSardinia-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7297/...9df16682_b.jpgAlghero CC-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7229/...822c3b35_b.jpgAlghero CC-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
Then it was a small detour to the ghost town of Argentiera.
“Located halfway between Stintino and Alghero is the abandoned coastal mining town of Argentiera, a ghost-like place standing on one of the wildest sections of Sardinia's coast. The silver mine at Argentiera dates back to the Roman era and was once the largest Sardinian producer of this precious metal. It was as recently as 1963 that the seams were finally exhausted and production at the mine ceased. Apart from fencing off some of the more unstable buildings nothing has really been touched since the closure. Shafts and workings, administration buildings, miner's quarters and chapel all stand in an empty, eerie silence like something from the old wild-west. “ https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7083/...16c4b77e_b.jpgAlghero CC-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7011/...f00ceb6d_b.jpgSardinia-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7483/...379b5961_b.jpgSardinia-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
Quote:
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Thanks so much good timing for sure!
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From here it was a short 30+ km to Alghero for a 2 day rest.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7254/...43bbeb33_b.jpgAlghero CC-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr We really needed a day off the bike mostly so I could get the suits to the coin laundry for a much needed wash. It was very windy here, but in the old city with the narrow streets it was quite pleasant. The old city wall and ramparts are breezy for sure. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7465/...4e4f144c_b.jpgAlghero-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7135/...f7da6153_b.jpgAlghero-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7342/...1ec854a7_b.jpgAlghero-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7731/...bd331105_b.jpgAlghero-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7092/...83087afd_b.jpgAlghero-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7739/...b085393a_b.jpgAlghero-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7476/...0fca6f83_b.jpgAlghero-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7634/...7a0a4cd5_b.jpgAlghero by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7124/...91560f75_b.jpgAlghero-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7246/...be0161e7_b.jpgAlghero-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
We are making for the mountains again and crossing over to the east side of the island. We will go south about 2/3 of the way down since we have been told the riding further south is not very interesting. We are headed to Lanusei.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7769/...8028c42f_b.jpgScreen Shot 2016-05-17 at 09.16.59 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr Riding south we headed first to Bosa along the coast road. It is nice, but not like the coast of Corsica. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7581/...d7c45b6d_b.jpgLansuei by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7163/...d6aa6cbc_b.jpgLansuei-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7108/...f950fff1_b.jpgLansuei-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
From here we rode cross country for a boring hour to get to the hill country. There were several small villages where you had to snake thru the streets to find the main road again. Thank goodness for the directional arrows for the one ways and the GPS!
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7477/...f2f7d031_b.jpgLansuei-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr We did find a small off road route, which takes you past one of the bronze age Nuraghe. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7364/...788c9e3d_b.jpgLansuei-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7543/...d3942d34_b.jpgLansuei-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7706/...bf9cd261_b.jpgLansuei-17 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr “The nuraghe is the main type of ancient megalithic edifice found in Sardinia, developed during the Nuragic Age between 1900 and 730 BCE. Today it has come to be the symbol of Sardinia and its distinctive culture, the Nuragic civilization. More than 7000 nuraghi have been found, though archeologists believe that originally there were not fewer than 10,000.” https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7104/...d27b4295_b.jpgLansuei-21 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7193/...4afa5682_b.jpgLansuei-18 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
Here we were on the right track if the number of bikers we saw was an indication. it was vroom vroom in both directions. Once we got to Ghilarza the riding was much better. By the way finding your way points here can be a challenge since the Sardinian spelling is used on the GPS so you have to look that up for every town on wikipedia. Even then it may not help since Gairo is listed on line as Gàiru, but as G?iru on the GPS. We were up over the mountains with switch backs up and down several passes. There was almost no traffic if not for the bikers.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7473/...880d6c35_b.jpgScreen Shot 2016-05-17 at 09.17.23 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7192/...7c74139e_b.jpgLansuei-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7633/...2b5493e2_b.jpgLansuei-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7349/...f8a1f05b_b.jpgLansuei-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7205/...637a8d4b_b.jpgLansuei-16 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7768/...59ebb84f_b.jpgLansuei-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7494/...fbe9f5fc_b.jpgLansuei-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7271/...59e1d382_b.jpgLansuei-14 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
We arrived to Lanusei (Lanusèi), which is a town on the cliffside and the approach is up some very steep streets, but we had an amazing view to the coast. Walking into town was a lot easier then the km walk back up the stairs and hills. I was a good way to walk of the pizza we had for dinner.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7122/...b6fda268_b.jpgCala Ganon by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr We had only about 100 km to go today to the small beach town of Cala Ganone, but we managed to make it more interesting by going “the direct route”. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7653/...558a50d3_q.jpgScreen Shot 2016-05-17 at 15.37.42 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7337/...74968c35_z.jpgScreen Shot 2016-05-17 at 15.36.34 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
First we back tracked a bit up the mountain and then did a cross country route. The one section started at the back of a small steep town with twisty cobbled streets. Initially it was paved, but rapidly the road quality deteriorated.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7074/...54d0b5a0_z.jpgScreen Shot 2016-05-17 at 15.37.04 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7385/...67fa383b_b.jpgCala Ganon by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7712/...c6e2483c_b.jpgCala Ganon-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7767/...5dac50b6_b.jpgCala Ganon-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7625/...94863355_b.jpgCala Ganon-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7471/...fcabe894_b.jpgCala Ganon-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
Several sections of the road have fallen away from the mountain and there is a dirt track around.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7500/...c57d19dd_b.jpgCala Ganon-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7012/...7e603c64_b.jpgCala Ganon-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7501/...a0f3cf5f_b.jpgCala Ganon-22 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7673/...d06e4f0f_b.jpgCala Ganon-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7320/...1fa9e778_b.jpgCala Ganon-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7045/...9a477c1a_b.jpgCala Ganon-23 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
In one area there was a large landslide and instead of clearing it they just pored a concrete path over the top.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7633/...e68fa2b6_b.jpgCala Ganon-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7324/...695ab703_b.jpgCala Ganon-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr This route was only about 20 km but a bit of an adventure anyway. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7087/...8baec2d0_b.jpgCala Ganon-13 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7296/...7078f5e0_b.jpgCala Ganon-29 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7306/...d68ec08e_b.jpgCala Ganon-31 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
The rest was your standard curvy mountain roads.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7211/...de75f609_b.jpgCala Ganon-14 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7132/...3ce0aa74_b.jpgCala Ganon-15 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7596/...7b2e0623_b.jpgCala Ganon-16 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7478/...fa258a37_b.jpgCala Ganon-17 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7470/...27fdbf06_b.jpgCala Ganon-18 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
The entrance to the beach on the other side of the mountain is thru the mountain via a tunnel and then a switch back road down to the coast. This is a nice small beach town with a smooth rock beach and still chilly water. There are a number of excursions out of here to even nicer deserted beaches, but we just chilled in the sunshine for the rest of the day.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7780/...86641e31_b.jpgCala Ganon-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7406/...d595e9b7_b.jpgCala Ganon-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr Cala Ganone is in shooting distance to the ferry at Olbia in 110 km and 1hr 40 min away. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7724/...37b121c2_z.jpgScreen Shot 2016-05-21 at 16.57.25 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7699/...5a94a5c2_b.jpg3 civitivecchia by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
The ferry leaves every day at 12 30 for the 7 hour crossing to Civitivecchia.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7268/...b003391c_z.jpgScreen Shot 2016-05-21 at 16.54.02 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr We followed the signs to the Porto Touristica and then to Imbarchi! Here we checked in with the police who asked for our tickets and passports. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7024/...18bb4218_b.jpg3 civitivecchia-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7738/...a4f46fb4_b.jpg3 civitivecchia-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr You are then directed to the pre boarding parking where we found only a few cars and several transport trucks waiting. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7305/...503b0435_b.jpg3 civitivecchia-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7732/...262723bd_b.jpg3 civitivecchia-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
We were loaded first as usual and then directed to the upper deck. We were placed against one of the sides of the deck and the staff came over to say that we did not need to worry they would secure the bikes. They did a very good job.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7659/...45d2ee3a_b.jpg3 civitivecchia-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7146/...5b25c023_b.jpg3 civitivecchia-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7771/...ca5d5573_b.jpg3 civitivecchia-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr On our huge cruise ship there were maybe 100 people. They have state rooms, but a hefty 150 euros! We slept in chairs in the lounge, ate our picnic lunch, and watched crazy Italian TV shows. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7160/...7ce821c9_b.jpg3 civitivecchia-13 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
It was a very smooth sailing, but we did dock a bit late with all the coming and going from this busy port we have to wait our turn. It is amazing the small spaces these huge boats have to maneuver in here.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7216/...dbb85544_b.jpg3 civitivecchia-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7654/...1a0f790d_b.jpg3 civitivecchia-14 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7541/...1c1da25a_b.jpg3 civitivecchia-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7782/...93b132f8_b.jpg3 civitivecchia-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
The forecast was for sun, but it rained in the night and continued on and off al day. It was a chilly 12.5 as well. The goal is to get to Norchia area where the national parks area starts.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7208/...5fd22fe1_b.jpgScreen Shot 2016-05-21 at 17.03.05 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr We rode thru several small towns and into the old walled cities despite the weather. The nicest is probably Bevanga. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7605/...e5cd16f0_b.jpgPreci by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7539/...c2dfede6_b.jpgPreci-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7206/...6b764670_b.jpgPreci-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7762/...131005ca_b.jpgPreci-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7619/...d3285406_b.jpgPreci-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7593/...5168e120_b.jpgPreci-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7162/...23fd30b4_b.jpgPreci-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7419/...c5e8c2fd_b.jpgPreci-17 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7528/...c9533536_b.jpgPreci-18 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7452/...d78fbc3b_b.jpgPreci-19 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
Finally we got a bit of a break in the afternoon with the rain stopping for a while at east in order to get to the campaign spot near Preci.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7555/...549a149c_b.jpgPreci-14 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7733/...015aefdb_b.jpgPreci-22 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7122/...27ff1dfb_b.jpgPreci-23 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7681/...8d4f22f3_b.jpgPreci-25 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7256/...bdb6591a_b.jpgPreci-26 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7741/...4df55a46_b.jpgPreci-27 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
Get rid of these clouds before we arrive :scooter:
Gino & Fiona |
Only sunshine and Curves are in your future!!!
https://c1.staticflickr.com/6/5636/2...c069b366_b.jpgroad trip day 4 32 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
It then proceeded to pour rain all night long, but was down to a drizzle by 9 am and we packed up to leave. The route today is thru the national park of Parco Nazionale del Gran Sasso e Monti della Laga.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7586/...20c0bc15_b.jpgScreen Shot 2016-05-21 at 17.08.42 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
First we headed to Norcia for gas and then up into the hills.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7772/...6607e03c_b.jpg5 poggio picenze by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7385/...41a5cd06_b.jpg5 poggio picenze-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7604/...eb632946_b.jpg5 poggio picenze-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7673/...3494d664_b.jpg5 poggio picenze-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
It was 3-4 degrees for the most part and when we got to the ski area it was raining and foggy as well.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7424/...63460a59_b.jpgScreen Shot 2016-05-21 at 17.04.53 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr We pressed on mostly on the roads where the surface is so bad and you see almost no cars and so you start to think the road is closed, but on the passes at least there is an OPEN/Overt sign. We rode along the huge reservoir and over the bridge. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7502/...d4bc70a2_b.jpgScreen Shot 2016-05-21 at 17.06.16 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7432/...f44c69d2_b.jpg5 poggio picenze-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7083/...07bb08fd_b.jpg5 poggio picenze-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7019/...8f57a1a1_b.jpg5 poggio picenze-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7131/...0f2e528b_b.jpg5 poggio picenze-14 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr The last pass on the was to Santo Steffani is unreal. The road is in terrible shape and with the rain and dense fog it was very hard to avoid even the biggest of the holes. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7592/...08f868cb_z.jpgScreen Shot 2016-05-21 at 17.09.39 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
We were now frozen and starved as we were waiting to eat at the famous Bbq places at the top of the pass. Needless to say insult added to injury when we got there it was pouring and 2.5 degrees and they were of course not open. We were icy by the time we got to Poggio Picenze.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7017/...ff6ae590_b.jpgScreen Shot 2016-05-21 at 17.10.10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7255/...35e4c357_b.jpg5 poggio picenze-16 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr Wandering in the town is a bit eerie. There was an earthquake here 8 years ago and most of the old buildings are condemned. People are living in “temporary” houses and many of the building are braced with wood and metal supports. https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7496/...e518dc7b_b.jpg5 poggio picenze-17 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7301/...12b53113_b.jpgPoggio Picenze-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7132/...5a48fb3a_b.jpgPoggio Picenze by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7203/...d5cda4f9_b.jpgPoggio Picenze-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
The forecast was unbelievably for sun and we woke to a bright blue sky. We decided to go back up the mountain to see the views under better conditions. We back tracked to the top of the pass in the cathedral of mountains and from here down the back side thru Castel del Monte. From here we set a direct path to Pompei on the secondary roads.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7685/...1b66114f_z.jpgScreen Shot 2016-05-21 at 17.15.02 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7561/...97dcfc73_b.jpgCastel del Monte-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7730/...113d38ba_b.jpgCastel del Monte by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7673/...3bbe2531_b.jpgCastel del Monte-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7636/...394a3e29_b.jpgCastel del Monte-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
This whole booking it south thing worked out well for the most part until we made a mistake just north of Naples and this put us on a direct route thru the city.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7773/...22fa00ca_z.jpgScreen Shot 2016-05-21 at 17.15.42 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr This place is nasty. There is garbage everywhere. It looks post apocalyptic. There are “professional” ladies sitting in plastic chairs or standing all along the side of the road wearing what look like bad Halloween outfits. Added to their the traffic is crazy and there is basically no one following any rules of the road. Red lights it seems are “just a suggestion”, people will turn left in front of you from beside you in the right lane, they will turn left on coming to you when ever they want and then look at you as if you are nuts. These people make Peruvian taxi drivers look like angels. This is added to the national pastime here of driving incredible fast and about 1 meter from your back tire even at highway speed. The round abouts and the 4 way “stop” intersections are a complete free for all. Basically you have to ride very aggressively and give not even an inch to any other vehicle. If you hesitate even for a second they will pull in on you, cut you off, or drive in your path from any possible direction. Add to this a huge number of scooters weaving in and out of traffic. Once past the city it calmed and we were on the “coast” road and so there were no lights or cross streets to deal with. https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7319/2...fa56d9c8_b.jpgTo Sicily CC-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
We are here to visit the ancient city of Pompei that was burred under 6 meters of ash when the nearby Vesuvius volcano erupted suddenly in AD 79. We started at one end and wandered thru the major roads to see the Amphitheater, the Theatres, and many villas with painted frescos. Large sections of the site are closed either for repairs or lack of funding to maintain them.
https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7114/2...a69caeb1_b.jpgPompei-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7132/2...51c4f582_b.jpgPompei-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7438/2...8d27f8cc_b.jpgPompei-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7205/2...5b5945c9_b.jpgPompei by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7521/2...c0379613_b.jpgPompei by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7521/2...a3293797_b.jpgPompei-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7621/2...d2f8f548_b.jpgPompei-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7255/2...f90f9198_b.jpgPompei-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7298/2...9c9e3f4e_b.jpgPompei-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7705/2...6c74c345_b.jpgPompei-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7760/2...c490d77f_b.jpgPompei-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7309/2...4cc02aa3_b.jpgPompei-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7200/2...f5b9757b_b.jpgPompei-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7389/2...1e7e2a0a_b.jpgPompei-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7497/2...2ba9360a_b.jpgPompei-13 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7248/2...1d794080_b.jpgPompei-14 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7365/2...4e142685_b.jpgPompei-17 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7501/2...a170f13a_b.jpgPompei-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7696/2...da171d6b_b.jpgPompei-16 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7463/2...37c7d829_b.jpgPompei-19 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7182/2...79ae9cdf_b.jpgPompei-20 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7763/2...b9fe232b_b.jpgPompei-21 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7602/2...36c485c9_b.jpgPompei by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7053/2...c685c8e6_b.jpgPompei by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
We planned the exit from the city on the route of least resistance and this went well. We had big plans for the day to get down the Amalfi coast and then thru the Cilento and Vallo di Diano National Park to just before Maratea. Big because just the 52 km section from Pompei to Amalfi can take over 2 hours. We went on a Monday and there was not too much traffic. The predicted 15 km/hr did not happen! That said the 236 km did take all day.
https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7324/2...9bf3915f_b.jpgScreen Shot 2016-05-25 at 20.58.36 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
Leaving Pompei you get on the SS 145, which is a 2 lane very narrow road hugging the coast. There is heavy traffic in both directions until you pass the exit to Sorrento. At one point an oncoming SUV tried to squeeze past the transport truck in front us and at high speed in a space to small he hit his mirror on the cliff wall. That stopped the traffic behind us for sure! The village of Positano hangs on the cliff side. The city visitor’s cars were parked on the side of the road started about 2 km before and continued 2 km after the town. They have numerous traffic wardens directing the mayhem. Mostly the bikes are let thru when they are holding the cars to let traffic pass in one direction at a time. The streets are too narrow in lots of spots for 2 cars to pass and there is no way the busses can make it. Most corners have mirrors so you can see if someone in coming on the sharp narrow corners. Past Amalfi the road is still coastal, but normal in width.
https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7435/2...6f9c61c7_b.jpgAmalfi by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7697/2...3e33e386_b.jpgAmalfi by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7342/2...f58b7f5c_b.jpgAmalfi-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7563/2...e95fc017_b.jpgAmalfi-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7745/2...daab6c31_b.jpgAmalfi-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7714/2...49205cfd_b.jpgAmalfi-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7552/2...fc1d0489_b.jpgAmalfi-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7335/2...6acff69b_b.jpgAmalfi-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7143/2...c5d41b00_b.jpgAmalfi-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr There is so little parking they built one inside the cliff. https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7799/2...607e65d2_b.jpgAmalfi-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7581/2...31f4d802_b.jpgAmalfi-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7461/2...7bd4384c_b.jpgAmalfi-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7496/2...75c018ab_b.jpgAmalfi-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7725/2...1e4ff862_b.jpgAmalfi-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7120/2...be41b591_b.jpgAmalfi-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
From Salerno we headed inland and on the main road to make up some time and to get to Paestum for a brief visit to see the Greek ruins here.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7431/2...db9914f4_b.jpgAmalfi-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7769/2...905a9b52_b.jpgAmalfi-13 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr “Paestum was a major ancient Greek city on the coast of the Tyrrhenian Sea in Magna Graecia (southern Italy). The ruins of Paestum are famous for their three ancient Greek temples in the Doric order, dating from about 600 to 450 BC, which are in a very good state of preservation. The city walls and amphitheatre are largely intact, and the bottom of the walls of many other structures remain, as well as paved roads. “ https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7611/2...b25c2547_b.jpgAmalfi-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7298/2...29a1f9dd_b.jpgAmalfi-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7224/2...a503a805_b.jpgAmalfi-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7287/2...8479c950_b.jpgAmalfi-15 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
We then went back to the small roads thru the park where there is almost no traffic on the small curvy roads. Finally we hit the sea side road again just before Sapri.
https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7205/2...7fbea654_b.jpgAmalfi-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7344/2...4e632ca9_b.jpgAmalfi-14 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr The hotel we had booked was down the cliff from the main road and there were about 6 tight hairpins to get done there. https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7339/2...d1d435b0_b.jpgAmalfi-16 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
Today we are headed to or at least towards Sicily depending on how the day goes. We stuck to the coast road, on which we made very quick time and we were at Cabo Vaticano by about 230. So we decided to make a run for the ferry at Villa San Giovanni.
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7120/2...a2b711e9_b.jpgScreen Shot 2016-05-25 at 21.10.21 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr Getting in and out of the cape was a bit hairy as following the GPS some times can be. We were on some very steep ups and downs with tight hairpins. At times on a very steep hill that you had to yield to traffic crossing! Also we were off road a bit on a track grown in with bamboo, which we had to pull bits out of the crash bars after some bush whacking. Getting out was a bit easier once we found the right tiny steep narrow path and back to the main road. https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7375/2...14d7d4c5_b.jpgTo Sicily CC-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7454/2...bfef1ec2_b.jpgTo Sicily CC by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7531/2...dda43ba0_b.jpgTo Sicily CC-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7286/2...93a83e1e_b.jpgTo Sicily CC-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7488/2...5506dfbe_b.jpgTo Sicily CC-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
It is a bit windy today!
https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7420/2...d147ba21_b.jpgTo Sicily CC-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7319/2...075332ea_b.jpgTo Sicily CC-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7620/2...9b679d5f_b.jpgSicily-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7381/2...ea6b387a_b.jpgTo Sicily CC-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
We arrived to the ferry dock at about 4 and they ferry was just unloading. They are so busy here they are unloading one boat at the same time as loading another so the traffic is crossing. It is a 35 min ride to Messina Sicily. We rolled up and there is a massive sign over the road in English that says BUY YOUR TICKETS HERE!
https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7507/2...97f303ed_b.jpgScreen Shot 2016-05-25 at 21.18.31 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7670/2...27c37f66_b.jpgTo Sicily CC-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7493/2...932479ba_b.jpgTo Sicily CC-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7520/2...1aa8823b_b.jpgTo Sicily CC-13 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7731/2...5fa092ae_b.jpgTo Sicily CC-14 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7306/2...10e40ea8_b.jpgTo Sicily CC-15 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7384/2...0c78b1f8_b.jpg |
Here in Messina we stopped for groceries as we planned to camp tonight. We had first though to just go the 28 Km to the first camp place, but decided to press on. It actually took over 2 hours in traffic to get the 62 km to the campground on the cape and we were an exhausted mess by then.
https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7132/2...ef233342_b.jpgTo Sicily CC-16 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7272/2...2bc70f64_b.jpgTo Sicily CC-17 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7511/2...b11e51bf_b.jpgScreen Shot 2016-05-25 at 21.23.54 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr The traffic is heavy and people are parked all over both sides of the road. The buses are stopping every 2 minutes! I will say the Sicilian drivers are better than the Italians in general and we actually saw driver courtesy a few times today. They do not drive right on your back tire and pass with more care. |
Setting up camp we were both tired and crabby, but luckily we had a great Malaysian coconut chicken curry (Thanks Faizal) for dinner and a comfy nights rest! They also had extremely hot showers which did help a lot. The camp spot has a nice beach and restaurant.
https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7313/2...2a79892a_b.jpgSicily-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7076/2...9bd8fd40_b.jpg https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7568/2...dc92385e_b.jpgSicily-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7501/2...23a890f4_b.jpgSicily-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
Today we are headed to Palermo, which on the toll road is 209 km and takes 2 hr 28 min. If you avoid the toll road it is 222 km and 4 hr and 40 min.
https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7472/2...58e31ab9_b.jpgScreen Shot 2016-05-25 at 22.57.38 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7408/2...1621c584_b.jpg https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7398/2...7b032271_b.jpgPolermo by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7099/2...4d27a7fb_b.jpgPolermo-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7433/2...c12f2ee2_b.jpg |
We planned to take the coast road, but after 3 hours to get 116 km we had had enough and headed for the toll highway. It was not too bad except for the traffic in the towns where you were going 15 km /hr.
https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7295/2...039a2c53_b.jpgScreen Shot 2016-05-25 at 21.28.55 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr This is almost a continuous set of tunnels of 300-3000 metes with small breaks between. We were a bit worried how much it was going to cost for the 100 km since there was so little traffic, but it was only 4 Euros per bike! At the price of gas here were are even on time saved. https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7326/2...de27b04e_z.jpgScreen Shot 2016-05-25 at 21.29.32 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr The price of gas here varies widely even if 2 stations are in the same block. Today we say from 1.39 E to 1.72 (7.27 USD/ gallon). Arriving To Palermo the traffic was actually following the rules of the road (I know novel concept here in Italy). |
So getting into Palermo was a cake walk compared to Naples. The hotel we booked as about a 40 min walk from the historic centre and so we headed out to explore. Here we really appreciated the gothic and baroque buildings.
https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7695/2...9e829fdd_b.jpgSicily-19 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7150/2...035596cf_b.jpgSicily-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7780/2...39311f44_b.jpgSicily-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7360/2...0ee44b85_b.jpgSicily-24 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7325/2...687154ed_b.jpgSicily-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7219/2...b35c9b6b_b.jpgSicily by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7337/2...aa3496b1_b.jpgSicily-13 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7566/2...00473df1_b.jpgSicily-14 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7352/2...6e9f7362_b.jpgSicily-15 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7785/2...9d66b247_b.jpgSicily-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7649/2...559e7c71_b.jpgSicily-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7663/2...a988ea6c_b.jpgSicily-23 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7385/2...6658108f_b.jpgSicily-22 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7450/2...fd885ff2_b.jpgSicily-21 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7005/2...2b22f6be_b.jpgSicily-20 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7592/2...fb3ec539_b.jpgSicily-17 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7334/2...7001b07a_b.jpgSicily-16 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7048/2...cbf45ce4_b.jpgSicily-18 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
Getting out was even less of an issue and we were quickly on the main road west to Trapani. This is a quick 107 km and there was very little traffic. It was non existent getting into Trapani.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7727/2...26fd74da_b.jpgScreen Shot 2016-05-26 at 22.26.58 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr We are headed to the Suzuki dealer here to arrange oil changes and new brake pads for both bikes. In addition the water pump on the 650 has a small leak, which we noted about 10 days ago. Daniel had brought a new one with him since he was worried it would fail on the 800, but its’ poor Lulu with the runny nose. We were told of the shop by our Swedish friend Orvar who had service done on his 1200 2 months ago. The owner created us and was happy to do the work. the only issue is it is some sort of holiday here today on a Thursday and the device shop is closed. He set us up for 830 the next morning. Now it is 1030 am and we have to change plans. https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7156/2...d066c60b_b.jpgTrapani Bike Service-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr Bulk wine!! You bring your own container. https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7354/2...1b022512_b.jpgTrapani Bike Service-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
So its tomorrows route today.
https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7388/2...929d501d_b.jpgScreen Shot 2016-05-26 at 22.37.12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr We back tracked on the highway over the farm land to get to the foothills. https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7300/2...6756c180_b.jpgSicily-27 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr We want to visit Corleone! https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7571/2...f877aac2_b.jpgSicily-25 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr Many of the roads we took are “unmaintained” according to the signs, but its hard to tell the difference since the road surface is pretty bad in parts on the regular roads. We went 20-30 min at a time and never saw another vehicle. https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7370/2...a8e14f80_b.jpgSicily-26 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr Then we made a track out to the beach at San Vito lo Cabo. This 253 km loop took 6 hours with stops. https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7306/2...f38c75e1_b.jpgSicily-28 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
We were up early to head to Suzuki super bike and they had dropped everything to get our bikes done for us.
https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7511/2...08e1c140_b.jpgTrapani Bike Service by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7380/2...ca522002_b.jpgTrapani Bike Service-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7329/2...77a2f6d6_b.jpgTrapani Bike Service-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7378/2...99759e2f_b.jpgTrapani Bike Service-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
Leaving the shop at 230 pm it was 37 degrees. We had planned only a short day since we did not know exactly when they would be done. This worked for us as we had a few hours poolside this afternoon. We met a great couple here from Bonn Ulla and Martin also on an 800 GS.
https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7280/2...c3cd7254_b.jpgScreen Shot 2016-05-28 at 20.47.27 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr There was a bit of cloud cover today and we had hoped for cooler weather, but no it was 35-36 most of the 188 km to Catania. It did cool to 28 about 20 km from the coast. https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7352/2...51dc9da5_b.jpgScreen Shot 2016-05-28 at 20.46.18 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
We made a route past the valley of the temples, but in this heat we decided against the 4 km walk thru the park.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7425/2...8b8489ec_b.jpgCatania CC-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7438/2...7f099e6f_b.jpgValley of the Temples Sicily by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7539/2...ee36966f_b.jpgCatania CC-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7316/2...dc78008a_b.jpgCatania CC by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
The drivers here are so un Italian is was a breeze to get into the city. Finding the B&B was a bit more difficult since the GPS coordinates were correct, but there was no sign and the GPS said the street address was one street over. This is at 30 degrees on narrow warrens of roads, many of which are one way and some dead ends. Finally we asked for direction, but that was not help. Ultimately we went back to the first spot and by then the owner was out looking for us!
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7356/2...a4755846_b.jpgTo Mainland from Sicily CC by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr We spent the day walking in the historic centre.This town is definitely a bit gritty. The drivers here have some manners though. There is graffiti on all the buildings in the historic centre. Several of the big landmarks once open to the public are in ruins. https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7135/2...ac8ea280_b.jpgCatania-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7445/2...7fbf61b7_b.jpgCatania-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7349/2...c6e2f606_b.jpgCatania-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7531/2...67630b5b_b.jpgCatania-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7385/2...66de6d0b_b.jpgCatania-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7318/2...c634d28e_b.jpgCatania-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7511/2...f193a957_b.jpgCatania-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7668/2...f92cedd5_b.jpgCatania-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7566/2...51da62dd_b.jpgCatania by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr There are ruins of a Roman amphitheater buried under the city. They have excavated a small part. https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7257/2...87296ecb_b.jpgCatania-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
That said we had an enjoyable afternoon and some great ice cream with the ladies who had just left one of the many wedding we saw in the city today. For dinner we stopped at a road side Bbq spot for some MEAT! Of course a gelato.
https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7166/2...6934079d_b.jpgCatania-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7360/2...cfd3c11484.jpgCatania Iphone-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7228/2...d279f4d29a.jpgCatania Iphone by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7462/2...1a95dc9cf5.jpgCatania Iphone-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7407/2...55f9f7ba27.jpgCatania Iphone-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7232/2...9e212fde_b.jpgCatania-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
Todays plan is just to get to the ferry dock, back to the mainland, and then about 250 km north east. If you take the coast road from Catania to Messina it is 104 km and takes 3 hours, but if you take the toll road for 3.50 E it is 96 km and only take 1 hr 15.
https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7522/2...160df80814.jpgScreen Shot 2016-06-02 at 16.07.48 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7303/2...fcc1f2d9_b.jpgScreen Shot 2016-06-02 at 16.07.30 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr We also decided on a side trip on the loop road up on the Etna Volcano. This is a 48 km loop off our course that adds 1 hr 20 min. There are a ton of guys racing up and down on donor cycles and some of them in packs will come up on you at serious speed. https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7459/2...19925397_z.jpgScreen Shot 2016-06-02 at 16.08.26 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7496/2...12d1b9fd_z.jpgScreen Shot 2016-06-02 at 16.08.45 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
Up the south side you can see the lava flows and you arrive to the base of the active cone, where you can get the gondola up.
https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7425/2...8befb66b_b.jpgTo Mainland from Sicily CC-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7330/2...95175f06_b.jpgTo Mainland from Sicily CC-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr On the north side it is treed, but you can see the real cone and the smoke coming out from it from this perspective. https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7653/2...dbb15d26_b.jpgTo Mainland from Sicily CC-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7292/2...af034370_b.jpgEtna-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7352/2...ea9e0739_b.jpgEtna-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7233/2...185a07a3_b.jpgEtna by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
Arriving to the dock we only had about a 15 min wait for the next ferry.
https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7688/2...a4bede56_b.jpgTo Mainland from Sicily CC-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7047/2...ed2a5b28_b.jpgTo Mainland from Sicily CC-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7075/2...1f23e641_b.jpgTo Mainland from Sicily CC-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr Routing north the only option is to stick to the main highway as even if you enter avoid all highways you are still routed here since on the small roads it would take days. We headed 226 KM north east to Lombardo and finally got some time on the highway pegs. https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7533/2...288ccd27_z.jpgScreen Shot 2016-06-02 at 16.10.51 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr The gas here on the highway is 160 plus and we decided to hyper mile the last 60 km to get off the highway to get gas in the village (still 1.50). The small hotel we booked was in a tiny town, but it did have a hip bar/gelateria with good cones. |
Today we are going to Bari in 304 km to get the ferry to Durrës Albania.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7186/2...77ca03c0_b.jpgScreen Shot 2016-06-02 at 16.12.12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7424/2...8476a277_b.jpgBari CC by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr On the way we had an itinerary of sights to see. The first stop was at Matera. This is a town where until the 1960’s people still lived in the caves here. “Matera has gained international fame for its ancient town, the "Sassi di Matera" (meaning "stones of Matera"). The Sassi originated in a prehistoric troglodyte settlement, and these dwellings are thought to be among the first ever human settlements in what is now Italy. The Sassi are habitations dug into the calcareous rock itself, which is characteristic of Basilicata and Apulia. Many of them are really little more than caverns, and in some parts of the Sassi a street lies on top of another group of dwellings. The ancient town grew up on one slope of the rocky ravine created by a river that is now a small stream, and this ravine is known locally as "la Gravina". In the 1950s, the government of Italy used force to relocate most of the population of the Sassi to areas of the developing modern city. Until the late 1980s the Sassi was considered an area of poverty, since its dwellings were, and in most cases still are, uninhabitable. The present local administration, however, has become more tourism-oriented, and it has promoted the regeneration of the Sassi with the aid of the Italian government, UNESCO, and Hollywood. Today there are many thriving businesses, pubs, and hotels there.” https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7583/2...8806fcd1_b.jpgWhite Cities-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7465/2...0a488090_b.jpgWhite Cities-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7317/2...2da2c2f6_b.jpgWhite Cities-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7310/2...02212a8a_b.jpgWhite Cities-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
This lovely lady I helped up the stairs is 89 and her very stylish sunglasses she said she has had for 50 years!
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7591/2...e7042f87_b.jpgWhite Cities-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr We also checked out the south side of the valley where the more ancient caves are located. https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7378/2...c0228688_b.jpgBari CC-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7532/2...10363a92_b.jpgBari CC-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7433/2...7cc4ca38_b.jpgBari CC-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7168/2...02904e339c.jpgBari Iphone-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7207/2...ba4615b9_b.jpgWhite Cities by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7784/2...0ef4eb9c_b.jpgWhite Cities-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
From here it was to Albertobello which is the centre of the zona di Trulli. This is where they are concentrated, but for about 10 km around many buildings are built in this fashion.
“A trullo (plural, trulli) is a traditional Apulian dry stone hut with a conical roof. Their style of construction is specific to the Itria Valley, in the Murge area of the Italian region of Apulia. Trulli were generally constructed as temporary field shelters and storehouses or as permanent dwellings by small proprietors or agricultural labourers. In the town of Alberobello, in the province of Bari, whole districts are packed with trulli.” https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7354/2...91edc7fc_b.jpgBari CC-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7186/2...4724f65a_b.jpgBari CC-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7368/2...3c86dafa_b.jpgWhite Cities-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7725/2...655ebb8a_b.jpgWhite Cities-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7439/2...91577b03_b.jpgWhite Cities-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7316/2...11bcf1d7ef.jpgBari Iphone-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7434/2...15779b6903.jpgBari Iphone-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
We hit a mile stone today as well.
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7106/2...67ac81b5_b.jpgEtna-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr It was then a stop to stock up on supplies for the ferry. The boat leaves at 10 pm, but the check in closes at 7 (actually 9, but on line it says 7). We arrived at 615 to Bari. You just follow the signs to the port and you follow then about 2 km past where the boats are docked. Finally there is the port entry. Here you follow the signs to check in. It is a bit unclear, but first you make a left to the actual ferry company check in. Here you get your tickets for you, you bike, security, and your cabin. https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7206/2...0a759393_b.jpgBari CC-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7337/2...9f0e0c69_b.jpgBari CC-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
From here you are directed to the security check.
https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7579/2...2e21609c_b.jpgBari CC-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7382/2...1336ccf5_b.jpgBari CC-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7308/2...f86df479_b.jpgBari CC-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr Next you are directed to the boat area, which is back the 2km on the inside road. Here there is a further ticket and passport check. https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7044/2...530bcb76_b.jpgBari CC-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7092/2...47a5f646_b.jpgBari CC-13 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7420/2...9b1f8d8a_b.jpgBari CC-14 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7739/2...3a46864e_b.jpgBari CC-16 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7514/2...3f8732cc_b.jpgEtna-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7375/2...59f0b3c8_b.jpgEtna-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7281/2...43eb327d_b.jpgEtna-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7345/2...67969560_b.jpgBari CC-17 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
You are then directed to the loading area and ushered on board. As usual we are up on the second deck. Here there are friendly Pilipino crew members getting the vehicles parked. The bikes are tucked under a ramp. The cars and trucks must back into the ferry.
https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7547/2...f43ec192_b.jpgBari CC-18 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr We grabbed our supplies and made for a cold drink and a shower! It was a bit of a rough nice and not because of the sea. The vibration of the ferry was strong, but we did not sleep much since the frequency kept changing so much it would wake you. https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7014/2...cb9ac559_b.jpgScreen Shot 2016-06-02 at 16.13.04 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7451/2...bf597f97_b.jpgEtna-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7393/2...4221f166_b.jpgBari CC-19 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7062/2...8664a9d6_b.jpgBari CC-20 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7310/2...5c86585f_b.jpgBari CC-21 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7016/2...51b997a7_b.jpgEtna-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7360/2...d7b6a1ac_b.jpgEtna-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7339/2...c3410949_b.jpgLeaving Italy-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
We were up and out of the cabin at 7 and we could see the port of Durres. The offloading was quick. Once you unload you head to the police check. Here they want your passport, title, and green card and you get a passport stamp. This was very quick.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7639/2...4093a932_b.jpgRubik CC by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7329/2...fa72cb1b_b.jpgRubik CC-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7443/2...f3018498_b.jpgRubik CC-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr From here we were waved thru the next gate and then waved into the area to by Albanian insurance (15 E each for 2 weeks). https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7408/2...5c49c64e_b.jpgRubik CC-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7283/2...8fa1dfcf_b.jpgRubik CC-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
Then we were fancy free in country 46 Albania. There is certainly no shortage of gas stations (and car washes) here and at least unlike Italy all have a very similar gas price (1.10 -1.15 E). We stopped for a coffee and cold drinks at a cafe and again for a much more reasonable price. The plan today was to get up to the north part of the country to ride in the mountains. We hoped to ride as far as the loop to Kolsh, but had a back up on the SH30 thru Gojan if time ran out. Since we were off the ferry and out of customs by 805 we will likely have time. The gas attendant spoke English perfectly.
https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7309/2...1e54b098_b.jpgScreen Shot 2016-06-02 at 16.15.02 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7658/2...a8be6a43_z.jpg https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7785/2...69e8f74c_b.jpgRubik CC-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
Another great change here from Italy is the drivers here follow the rules of the road and drive like normal people!! They are very courteous. We booked it up the highway and then took the secondary roads. We came across a few small towns and lots of people in the fields. All were friendly and lots waved and yell out Hello!
https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7346/2...7916038e_b.jpgAlbania by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7116/2...71a3c524_b.jpgAlbania-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7322/2...f30bc1b1_b.jpgRubik CC-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7107/2...80118640_b.jpgRubik CC-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7734/2...c16b20f6_b.jpgRubik CC-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7450/2...ba5110b9_b.jpgAlbania-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7546/2...ff0b6ff7_b.jpgAlbania-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7377/2...440dd897_b.jpgRubik CC-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7368/2...81bfb7d2_b.jpgRubik CC-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7319/2...981fdaf0_b.jpgRubik CC-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7381/2...fa49bf88_b.jpgRubik CC-13 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7354/2...a2b57be3_b.jpgRubik CC-21 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
We took a small off road detour to see this mosque we could see in the distance.
https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7170/2...47959a6f_b.jpgRubik CC-14 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7601/2...c5ce080d_b.jpgRubik CC-15 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7338/2...af70fe9d_b.jpgRubik CC-16 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7300/2...b3c743c0_b.jpgRubik CC-17 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7358/2...b1ef1e10_b.jpgRubik CC-18 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7309/2...38a6c901_b.jpgRubik CC-19 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
Dan did a little mountain climbing with his Anakee 3!
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7284/2...12defb3b_b.jpgRubik CC-20 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7307/2...f8dc161c_b.jpgRubik CC-22 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7339/2...2557cf6d_b.jpgRubik CC-23 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7600/2...b48afa7e_b.jpgRubik CC-24 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
We stopped at the turn off of the SH 30 to decide if we should continue on the longer loop or take the cut off to Rubik (73 vs 133 km) . Several locals stopped to tell us to keep going and not turn off on the way they we going on the SH30. They all seemed very concerned we follow their advice. Since it was so early is the day we followed it.
https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7320/2...6d928dff_b.jpgRubik CC-25 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr This took us up again into the hills and then along several valley. https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7300/2...22261620_b.jpgRubik CC-26 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7368/2...f4c1c75d_b.jpgRubik CC-27 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7436/2...9ba443d3_b.jpgRubik CC-28 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7231/2...4b6d9351_b.jpgRubik CC-29 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7440/2...a6ac7ebe_b.jpgRubik CC-30 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr The hotel we had booked was in the middle of no where up a small road off of the SH 30 and along side a creek. https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7284/2...caa6133b_b.jpgAlbania-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7422/2...db25c3d4_b.jpgAlbania-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
From here we were headed south to Berat, but decided on an off road route. We are well aware of the risk of off road route in Albania, where the conditions of the roads can be very bad, but the plan was about a 20 km stretch or so we thought. The first part to Klos is paved as is the first 2 km up the side road.
https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7467/2...7d815ba5_z.jpgScreen Shot 2016-06-02 at 16.17.21 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7397/2...5f389d51_b.jpgBerat CC by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7709/2...e71d88fe_b.jpgAlbania-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7689/2...a44e55d3_b.jpgAlbania-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7781/2...aa050a86_b.jpgAlbania-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7650/2...f0a2c653_b.jpgBerat CC-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
It is then unpaved and much of the time un road like. It was a challenging 8 hours to finally get back to the pavement. As usual as the road got worse, we got more tired, and the stress level increased the photo taking was abandoned. You can see how close the every 15 min SPOT dots are at times! So heer are some pics of the easy bits.
https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7290/2...94ab3ac4_b.jpgScreen Shot 2016-06-02 at 16.19.59 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7568/2...7bfb083e_b.jpgScreen Shot 2016-06-02 at 16.22.11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7226/2...d2929a30_b.jpgScreen Shot 2016-06-02 at 16.22.46 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7302/2...0fd1aba9_b.jpgScreen Shot 2016-06-02 at 16.20.21 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7368/2...8e086fd8_b.jpgAlbania-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7078/2...069141ca_b.jpgAlbania-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7360/2...a50b5559_b.jpgAlbania-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
The initial part was up over a mountain pass and then down across a bridge into a small village. We met this herdsman who actually spoke English very well.
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7437/2...b2f6d7e8_b.jpgBerat CC-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7592/2...371fa2e2_b.jpgBerat CC-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7010/2...e9fc8846_b.jpgBerat CC-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7432/2...ee949909_b.jpgBerat CC-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7176/2...3c2e36f0_b.jpgBerat CC-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7302/2...072a1546_b.jpgBerat CC-13 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7315/2...8080000e_b.jpgBerat CC-14 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7377/2...0e3bbe44_b.jpgBerat CC-16 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7302/2...b6c65bbb_b.jpgBerat CC-17 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7567/2...69a735e7_c.jpgBerat CC-19 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
We stopped for a drink in the “restaurant “ in Xiber murriza and headed out again. And looking back now we had mad a turn somewhere off the main road. How we are not sure, but after here is where the route got really tough at times and mostly donkey track.
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7421/2...b06498a5fa.jpgScreen Shot 2016-06-05 at 13.16.46 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7571/2...8d4bb168_b.jpgBerat CC-20 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7330/2...5a870dda_b.jpgBerat CC-22 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7476/2...57daa5be_b.jpgAlbania-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
In the base of several of the valleys the route was more like a river bed and there were a number of water crossings.
https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7247/2...bb7caf7e_b.jpgBerat CC-23 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7304/2...f4d6aa60_b.jpgBerat CC-24 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7722/2...bf7271d4_b.jpgBerat CC-25 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr There were some pretty steep and rocky up and downs and a lot of switch backs. https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7407/2...b44280cc_b.jpgBerat CC-27 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7370/2...c47bd64c_b.jpgBerat CC-28 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7751/2...8ecf5e8e_b.jpgBerat CC-29 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7535/2...28928cf5_b.jpgBerat CC-31 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7052/2...65c083fa_b.jpgBerat CC-32 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7564/2...a6aaf74e_b.jpgAlbania-13 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7758/2...a680f94b_b.jpgAlbania-14 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7189/2...b33e4353_b.jpgAlbania by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr This is the only other vehicle we saw and this is 5 hours in. https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7072/2...3980406a_b.jpgBerat CC-33 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7366/2...5447521e_b.jpgBerat CC-34 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
These bunkers are located all over Albania. There is a great article done by Merlin and Rebecca Merlin and Rebecca: The Concrete Pillboxes of Albania
“Over 700,000 bunkers in Albania were constructed during the nearly forty-year rule of Enver Hoxha – one for every four inhabitants. The bunkers are still a ubiquitous sight in Albania, with an average of 24 bunkers for every square kilometre of the country. Hoxha's programme of "bunkerisation" resulted in the construction of bunkers in every corner of the then People's Socialist Republic of Albania, ranging from mountain passes to city streets. They had little military value[citation needed] and were never used for their intended purpose during the years of Communist rule (1945–1990). The cost of constructing them was a drain on Albania's resources, diverting them away from more pressing needs, such as dealing with the country's housing shortage and poor roads. The bunkers were abandoned following the collapse of communism in 1990. Most are now derelict, though some have been reused for a variety of purposes including residential accommodation, cafés, storehouses and shelters for animals or the homeless. A few briefly saw use in the Balkan conflicts of the 1990s.” https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7364/2...fa3410f4_b.jpgAlbania-15 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr Here is one from the south. https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7621/2...2dbb388b_c.jpgBerat-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
At about 6 hours in it started to poor and luckily we came upon a village soon after. Here we took shelter under some trees, but we were soon asked into a grocery shop for shelter. Here the family gave us cold drinks, peaches, and walnuts from their tree while we waited the worst of the downpour out. We stayed about 45 min, but as we still have a long way to go we headed out again.
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7368/2...40fc4a02_b.jpgAlbania-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7406/2...47298458_b.jpgAlbania-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr Lulu did have a few dirt naps today. https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7364/2...4dfef2c8_b.jpgBerat CC-36 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7424/2...febb8286_b.jpgBerat CC-37 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
We came to this cross road and after scouting both routes they were both really technical. We went back to the last settlement. We stopped again to ask these kids for direction and again they spoke English well. We had missed the turn on the “road” since it did not look very road like.
https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7447/2...6752bb89_b.jpgBerat CC-38 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7304/2...257dee32_b.jpgBerat CC-39 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr The route then was across a river bed for a km or so, but at least we finally saw vehicles!! https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7585/2...97fd877f_b.jpgBerat CC-40 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7405/2...6d4fa404_b.jpgBerat CC-41 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7359/2...cf1f265c_b.jpgBerat CC-42 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7343/2...c68cc58b_b.jpgBerat CC-43 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr After this the last half hour finally the route was like a road and we could make some time. We hit the SH 61 finally for a maintained gravel road. https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7229/2...a316472a_b.jpgBerat CC-44 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7021/2...0b165798_b.jpgBerat CC-45 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
This brought us to the capital Tirana at about 730 pm. At this round about we were in the left lane and about 3 minutes later we were pulled over by an unmarked police car. This would be the first time in 4 years. He cut Dan off to force him over3 lanes and could have caused an accident. This was all just to warn us that in Albania motorcycles are not allowed to drive in the left lane. Hard to know since there are almost no motorbikes or scooters in this country.
https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7354/2...cd1dc6bf_b.jpgBerat CC-46 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr We then still had 123 Km to go to get to Berat on the highway. https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7391/2...8ec544c087.jpgScreen Shot 2016-06-02 at 16.18.17 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
We arrived here after dark and had to get directions to the hotel since the GPS was telling us to drive up a stairway on a path. The hotel is actually inside the walled hill top Castle of Berat. This is up a brick road and into the walled city. Here we were warmly greeted out on the road by the owners, who had begun to worry about us since we arrived so late. They had heard the motor coming up the hill and came out to make sure we found the way in the dark. We felt so grateful for the family of Bora, Leo, Xeno, and Klea for taking such wonderful care of us. We were so exhausted we stayed 2 nights.
https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7512/2...68087caf_c.jpgBerat-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7193/2...5ea8807e_c.jpgBerat-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr We rested most of the day but did take time to tour the small old city and the museum and take a walk down into the city to see some of the churches and mosques. https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7302/2...24c5985a_c.jpgBerat by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7484/2...84ba7086_c.jpgBerat by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7058/2...273145a1_c.jpgBerat-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7547/2...341cccaf_c.jpgBerat-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7444/2...35812a91_c.jpgBerat-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
We headed this morning out of the castle walls and then cross country to the city of Fier. Nearby is the ancient city of Apollonia, which was a very important place in the past.
https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7377/2...5ca3dbdd_b.jpgScreen Shot 2016-06-03 at 20.12.58 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7373/2...d3bd5467_b.jpgSarande CC by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7407/2...a5a69824_b.jpgSarande CC-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7680/2...47baff87_b.jpgApollonia-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7402/2...bc9cea53_b.jpgBerat-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flick https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7405/2...715b8907_b.jpgBerat-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7289/2...22ecb963_b.jpgBerat-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
In Ancient Apollonia we toured the museum and the ruins.
https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7203/2...94a4ff5d_b.jpgApollonia-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7316/2...a5153b9e_b.jpgApollonia-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7445/2...21e2fba4_b.jpgApollonia-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7094/2...73aa60f5_b.jpgApollonia by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7620/2...3c8505c9_b.jpgApollonia-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7215/2...7b11009d_b.jpgApollonia-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
From there we are going to the coast and down the scenic SH8. Some of this is thru the Kombetar Llogara National Park. (Goggle will not route thru from Ducat to Dhermi in the park). The road climbs up and down the mountain over numerous switchbacks.
https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7353/2...8575efd8_z.jpgScreen Shot 2016-06-03 at 20.14.27 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr From the top you have a view of the southern Albanian coast and the Greek island of Corfu. We ended the day in the beach side town of Sarande. https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7579/2...3c2cce46_z.jpgScreen Shot 2016-06-03 at 20.13.57 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7565/2...086a040f_b.jpgSarande CC-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flick https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7383/2...767c93e6_b.jpgMeteora by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c8.staticflickr.com/8/7159/2...e650ebed_b.jpgSarande CC-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7199/2...4bee430c_b.jpgSarande CC-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7191/2...8c351d4d_b.jpgSarande CC-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7739/2...ed8ddfa3_b.jpgSarande CC-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c4.staticflickr.com/8/7294/2...53cb7455_b.jpgSarande CC-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c2.staticflickr.com/8/7306/2...e5ea2e42_b.jpgSarande CC-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://c3.staticflickr.com/8/7304/2...176d8df1_b.jpgSarande by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
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