Horizons Unlimited - The HUBB - Finding Freedom...World Wide Ride

Horizons Unlimited - The HUBB (https://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hubb/)

- Ride Tales (https://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hubb/ride-tales/)

- - Finding Freedom...World Wide Ride (https://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hubb/ride-tales/finding-freedom-world-wide-ride-65365)

Leaving from the north side we did walk about 800 m to a popular Chinese Restaurant for lunch. We decided against food available inside the museum. Again out driver Mr Tang did an amazing job. Every meal he studies the menu and chooses unique dishes. Today we had a sliced beef dish made with “numb” peppers and when you ate it your tongue went numb. We also had a minced pork with chilies that you spoon into bread cups sort of like lettuce wrap style.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4343/...9377ac6b_b.jpg Forbidden City by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4378/...0202b028_b.jpg Beijing_-22 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4397/...c490ffb4_b.jpg Beijing_-26 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4357/...e0a3ba4d_b.jpg Beijing_-34 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4377/...dcd6cd57_b.jpg Beijing_-27 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

From here we planned to walk thru the Jingshan Park park and ascend to the temple for a 360 degree view of the city. Jingshan dates back to the Jin Dynasty 1000 years ago. The 46 m artificial hill was constructed in the Ming Dynasty and from soil excavated for the moats of the Imperial Palace and nearby canals.

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https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4380/...463a5b4a_b.jpg Beijing_-21 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4382/...ab711aa1_b.jpg Beijing_-29 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4454/...8bd74e79_b.jpg Beijing_-31 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4379/...a0d3fa21_b.jpg Beijing_-30 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4474/...b21e666a_b.jpg Beijing_-32 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4425/...0ce94bb9_b.jpg Beijing_-33 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

It is another beautiful day here if a bit cool at 14 this morning. We have 344 km to Datong and then a further 19 km west to the Yungang Grottoes.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4422/...22775156_b.jpg Screen Shot 2017-09-22 at 21.40.29 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4396/...e159de64_b.jpg Screen Shot 2017-09-22 at 21.48.30 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We are leaving this early as we need to get to the 5 th ring road and then across Beijing and out before the traffic mayhem. We did not too badly actually and we were out and 120 km away by 9 am. Leaving the city we again had some stunning views of the Badaling section of the Great Wall.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4450/...52b8e16c_b.jpg FILE1062 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

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It is also strange in a country we think of as crowded with 1.4 billion that there is so little urbanization. Between the high density cities there is nothing. The highway exits can be 50 km apart. We stopped for some breakfast at 9, gassed up as we are in the same county still we can use the pumps, and then hit the road again.

They are such concrete rule followers here and it can be very frustrating. For example you can ride you bike to the pump, but once you have the gas you must push it past all the pumps and out of the gas up area. So that could be 5 or 20 meters…. we backed up 3 and rode away.

We had to run the gauntlet of 4 toll stations as well today, which to be honest is quite stressful. In Beijing Big bikes are allowed on the highway and it it 1 RNB per 2 km (6 RNB/USD) and so very expensive. The driver paid 1700 RNB to get to us at the border and this is one reason why booking a tour here is so expensive. As our guide says everything in China costs. It is the best when there are a few big trucks waiting on the far right as we can sneak up beside them and get by easily. There is a wide lane and they pull over far left to reach the toll taker and thus we have lots of room to get by. Occasionally if they see us coming the run out or wave us to stop, but we must keep going. Dan and I don't feel that great about this, but this is the way it is here. The law says no motorcycles (scooters, 3 wheel jobs with large….. by the millions here that can only go 50 km/h) and they can not just their thinking to the big bike that can keep pace with the traffic or more.

https://youtu.be/rxDn535ARhE

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4465/...9352b957_b.jpg FILE1159 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

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What is amazing in a country with this population is the vast tracts of nothing outside the cities. Here there is little urbanization. There is also little farming because of the short season. The landscape gets more and more industrial closer to Datong and the air is a dense fog of pollution.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4509/...ec282279_b.jpg FILE1155 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

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It was another 150 km to have a break on the side of the road and then 80 more to the Grottoes. The approach to Datong is a sight from Mad Max. Our eyes were burning and the massive cloud of solution over the city is insane. They burn coal to make electricity to sell to the south of China. It seems a high price to pay if you love here. Driving around the outskirts of the city it looks post apocalyptic. On the west side of the city the sky is clear and the air quality much better.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4396/...e159de64_b.jpg Screen Shot 2017-09-22 at 21.48.30 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

The Yungang Grottoes are rock-cut architecture and one of the three most famous ancient Buddhist sculpture sites in China. The stone carvings are from the 5 th and 6 th century. The grottoes are excavated in a sandstone cliff 2600 ft long and 30-60 feet high.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4466/...12943b2c_b.jpg FILE1130 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

They are such sticklers about the parking every where here too. Motorcycles must park in motorcycle spots. It does not matter that we have 4 huge bikes and the spot is for 4 mopeds. There is no way they will let you put any number of bikes in one car spot even if the lot is empty. “They are for cars”.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4411/...609c55d8_b.jpg China Datong Grottos-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4466/...fdffdc5f_b.jpg China Datong Grottos by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4463/...9297a277_b.jpg IMG_9880 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We had on the itinerary to back track 60 km and then ride 30 are to visit the hanging temple, but we decided against this as we were leaving the grottoes at 330. We also decided to change hotel locations to a Huairen 55 km south of Datong. It is much smaller and not industrial. The access is easy off the G35 and is on a 6 lane road with almost no cars! Are we in China???

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The hotel restaurant staff having a pep talk.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4461/...ed19d262_b.jpg China On route to Pingyau Acient City by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4469/...7a58a942_b.jpg IMG_9949 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

For dinner we headed down the street and had the best meal yet. The staff was so pleased we liked it and they all wanted a photo with us.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4514/...4c0b3094_b.jpg China On route to Pingyau Acient City-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4483/...dae6b3f4_b.jpg China On route to Pingyau Acient City-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We stopped after 125 km to take a break and make a coffee in the parking lot. This drew quite a crowd. The scenery today more green with some terracing of the hill sides. We had a few set backs today as it rained on and off and even before it rained on us the road was wet and filthy and we were covered in dirt. Almost too late we put on the over suits. About 30 min later the sun's out, but we were trapped in a massive 10 km long traffic jam. We pulled over to un-suit as is was now 27 degrees and then we had to drive backwards on the highway thru the trucks to get over 2 lanes to lane split thru the “parked” 3 lanes of cars and trucks. The cause was a semitrailer on its side and they had all lanes merging into 1. It was smooth sailing after this and we arrived to Pingyao at 2 pm.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4512/...b09433d7_b.jpg FILE1276 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

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We awoke to a lot of yelling in Chinese at 630. Apparently an entire bus of Chinese tourists had checked in here as well. We and the bikes are filthy after the rain and dirty roads yesterday. It is almost impossible to get laundry done here. We have hand washed the clothes, but the suits need a machine. A car wash for the bikes is a much easier thing….maybe we will just pressure wash ourselves?! We set out at 730 and made the toll entry like pros.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4470/...cd181b65_b.jpg FILE1308 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We have 502 km to ride to Xi’an, which is where the Terracotta Warriors are found.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4449/...e4dd5a14_z.jpg Screen Shot 2017-09-22 at 21.53.14 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4464/...def46d6b_b.jpg Xi'an China-49 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

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Again they will sell you gas for the bike at the pump at the highway stations where bikes are not permitted!

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4508/...5858bde8_b.jpg FILE1328 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Orvar blew past the direction to Xian exit and had to ride back on the verge as who knows where the next exit to turn around might be!! We had decided to ride about 150 km to near Linfen to refuel and get breakfast. We parked at the restaurant and this caused a huge crowd to gather. They all wanted a photo with the foreign bikers.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4476/...d704b40f_b.jpg FILE1338 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4470/...a259453a_b.jpg Road to Xi'an-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4466/...0029d86c_b.jpg Road to Xi'an by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4479/...b9cab136_b.jpg IMG_9962 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

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This guy with the phone was secretly taking pictures of Dan in the pharmacy!!

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4512/...659163b4_b.jpg IMG_9978 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We were up early and walked up the street to get a Chinese breakfast pancake! YUM! Next door to the vendor is this fancy bakery!

https://youtu.be/lYuyh0jX48w

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4459/...bd7d30a3_b.jpg Road to Xi'an-14 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4507/...30f58c9f_b.jpg IMG_9970 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We had a big day planned as we are trying to make miles over the next few days to Tibet. It is 550 km to Dinxi and we planned the upper route as there is less speed control for the van and less tunnels for us.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4380/...0cd20012_b.jpg Screen Shot 2017-09-24 at 18.14.27 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Orvar’s new Frankenscreen for highway driving.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4501/...41094978_b.jpg Road to Lhasa-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We did not too bad setting out at 7 am and getting out of the city and onto the G70. The scenery is more hilly, but you can barely see it do to dense pollution.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4448/...3bff4723_b.jpg FILE1425 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

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We stopped after 2 hours for breakfast and were making good time until we ran into G70 construction and the road was diverted onto the secondary road. We are pretty sure one of the drivers who was following us reported us to the toll booth as they were out in force to prevent us from getting back on the highway. Much yelling in Chinese and we had to turn around. The detour was thru an apple growing region and each fruit was individually bagged for protection.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4478/...39f6e8ef_b.jpg FILE1473 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We went up and over a mountain range and on the down side there was some kamikaze trucks passing each other. There was a huge collection of trucks at the toll and when we drove up on the right 4 agents were blocking the way. We went to the next access point, but they had obviously called ahead as the police were there too. They were very nice and spoke English. They said they had called further ahead and “thanks for helping us by turning around and going not the side road”. This was not too bad except the average speed on what is supposed to be a bigger milage day.

There are a few villages, but also long stretches where you can get some speed. Passing the small trucks loaded with corn was a challenge.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4496/...a6ba73d2_b.jpg FILE1484 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

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We passed a few entry points to the G70 and then took the bypass road around Pingliang. Just after here we easily made it on to the highway, but there was 3 separate toll stations over the next 15 km. Then we had several very long tunnels. We exited from a 10 km one to find comparatively clear horizons. The pollution level has dropped 90% and we can actually see our surroundings.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4501/...df11483f_b.jpg FILE1543 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

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We met up with our guide and driver finally at the service centre at Jingning 130 km from Dinxi. The last part we were on the G22 and there are no tolls until the city, but getting off here was a tight squeeze beside the trucks. We are staying in a hotel owned by the Electric company. A bit run down, but easy access and exit from the city.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4495/...225cbe1e_b.jpg Road to Lhasa-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4477/...7c493fb2_b.jpg Road to Lhasa-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Road to Lhasa

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4463/...04fbdf73_b.jpg Screen Shot 2017-09-24 at 18.16.47 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We left the hotel just after 745 and easily got on to the highway as there were no vehicles at all. This is a difficult access as the lanes are so narrow you can not pass easily. Sara has taken her panniers off also to try to make it easier after almost not making it last night. Her’s are so low they can hit the barriers curbs.

We had eaten at the hotel and so wanted to make some distance early for our 492 km day to Gong He.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4433/...181b44bd_b.jpg Screen Shot 2017-09-25 at 19.24.18 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

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It is very industrial and polluted to Lanzhou.

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The number of tall apartment complexes is astounding.

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The money being spent on infrastructure here is unbelievable with roadways, tunnels, and elevated train tracks.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4463/...6b8fc036_b.jpg FILE1704 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We stopped about 30 km past Lanzhou for a break and to make a coffee. The driver and Toni left before us and said we would catch up. Dan posing for photos.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4446/...b1623c4f_b.jpg FILE1684 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

The next toll is 36 km and in fact you exit one, go 4 km and enter another. We made it thru these easily and as we passed by the next rest station we saw the guides there about 400 m away and they jumped into the van.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4458/...da0c8f9e_b.jpg Road to Lhasa-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

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Then at Xining we got separated as there are 2 bypass roads. They had told us to stay on the G30, which is the right bypass road. We had messaged them to confirm that we would take the right, but for some reason they took the left. This meant that when we got to Huangyuan and messaged them they were now actually ahead of us.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4449/...2bd3d8a1_b.jpg Screen Shot 2017-09-25 at 21.16.14 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We stopped there to message and met a bunch of Chinese bikers also on their way to Lhasa. They are totally decked out and all had the coveted A plate from Beijing. The station would not sell us gas as we did not have a police permit. No worry we had enough and were just trying while we waited to figure out where our team was.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4461/...14816a01_b.jpg Road to Lhasa-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

In the end they were just 10 km ahead on the side of the road. The 4 lane divided highway suddenly ends on a 2 lane city road and the limit is 60 for the first 30 km, but then its back to the highway. You climb up the mountain and one 5 km tunnel lets you out at 3400+ meters.

Then it is down down to Gong He (Qbaqa on open street) at 2900 m. We stopped at the first gas station, but here motorcycles have to go to one certain station and so off we went. They would not pump into the bikes, but at least the jugs they used are metal with a long metal spout and they do not leak. Plus at 10 later it was a lot faster than the 4 l leaky kettle with the rubber tube.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4489/...3ca58da6_b.jpg Road to Lhasa-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

The town is not much to speak of, but the hotel is surprisingly good and thankfully today clean. We had not eaten since 7 except some snacks as there were no service stations after Xining. Starved we headed out for fresh noodle soup.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4459/...8dc5b9ae_b.jpg IMG_0049 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Then we had a long walk about the town and it seemed longer because of the elevation.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4513/...8b1433c8_b.jpg Road to Lhasa-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Oxygen anyone??

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4495/...40c0a235_b.jpg Road to Lhasa-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We had a great night sleep, but woke up before 6 to the rain. It was light and in fact had stopped by the time we set out at 730. We did still all put on the over suits mostly as it was only 8 degrees. We have a very long day of 682 km to Ge Er Mu (Ge’er Mu, Geermu, or Golmud it is confusing as towns all have traditional, Tibetan, and Chinese names).

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4502/...3f5acbcb_b.jpg Screen Shot 2017-09-26 at 21.46.33 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

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First we booked it 145 km to Cha Ka where the road forks and stopped for some noodle soup for breakfast. It was still only 9 degrees, but by noon it was a pleasant 15.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4445/...d6253740_b.jpg Road to Lhasa-13 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

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We continued west to Delingha or Haixi, the capital of Haixi Mongol and Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture.

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We stopped here to refuel and the gassed the bikes no problem at the pump! It is now 1 pm and we have 320 km to go and so we made another 45 km to a service center and had some lunch cooked under a tarp in the parking lot. The soup was good, but we could not manage the organs just the veg and fresh made noodles. The local ladies were very keen for some photos.

https://youtu.be/wnXOywp0FRk

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4476/...00478930_b.jpg IMG_0052 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4454/...68d14478_b.jpg IMG_0058 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4510/...8d698a11_b.jpg IMG_0065 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

The toll stations here are in general much easier as they are wider and the agents don't try to stop you. There is now only one road to Lhasa and so there is no toll fee for bikes so they let us thru.This toll gate was a bit narrow and Dan’s rain jacket got hung up until the sweeper unhooked him. Lulu was right at handlebar height so was even more tricky.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4511/...84eeb04d_b.jpg FILE1863 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

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We arrived to the city, which is pretty cosmopolitan with tall building, parks with huge sculptures, and lots of restaurants. The parking is inside the courtyard and the bikes had their own spot, which the guards showed us they were watching with the night vision cameras when we came in from cleaning the chains. We are are feeling pretty good at 2900 m.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4453/...b5f0b859_b.jpg FILE1886 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We were met also by our Tibetan Guide Pam, who just arrived after a 16 hour train ride form Lhasa. He will take over from Toni once we hit Tibet. We walked over to a massive Muslim restaurant where when you drive you go into the huge covered courtyard, there are two levels of room and each table is in a private room (the windows can be curtained off for privacy). The food was amazing again and we sampled Yak meat (delicious and not gamey). The hotel we had was very nice and very comfortable and the breakfast buffet was huge.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4477/...3aae23af_b.jpg Road to Lhasa-14 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4462/...cac714df_b.jpg Road to Lhasa-15 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Today is is sunny, but 4 degrees when we set out at 8 am. We have 418 km to Tangulazhen on the China national Highway 109 that connects Beijing to Lhasa. (We have been on this route since Xining and this portion is called the Qinghai-Tibet Highway).

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4514/...3b8b89bd_b.jpg Screen Shot 2017-09-27 at 18.29.11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We will be starting our assent to altitude today from 2900m and Dan and Sara started Diamox, which is a medication that prevents altitude sickness. We will be sleeping tonight at 4600m and this difference is way above the recommended 400 m per day above 3000m. Not much we can do as the next lowest place is Lhasa 1100 km away. Orvar and Trevor decided against prophylaxis against the doctors recommendation.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4506/...b54c0446_b.jpg Road to Lhasa-16 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4457/...90c3018e_b.jpg FILE1910 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

You only drive about 20 km and you hit the First checkpoint. The level of security checks in Tibet is mind boggling. There is control over everyone's movements and they know where everyone is at all times. Gas is also controlled and you have to register and line up to buy it. This is a big control point and is the pre-check for the Tibetan boundary we will cross half way thru tomorrow. We did not have to do anything but had over our passport, Chinese DL, and plate card to Pam, who did everything. The police took just under an hour and we finally got the call from the higher powers in??? Beijing that we could pass the checkpoint.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4462/...00f0e09f_b.jpg FILE1912 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

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The road is paved, but badly grooved and damaged in sections. There are huge whoops and today riding the bike was like riding a wild horse at times. Your ass was off the seat quite a bit.

There is almost a continuous line of trucks full headed south and empty headed north as the 109 carries 85% of the goods in and out of Tibet. The oncoming ones can often be in your lane trying to avoid some rough road and many times today there was 2 semis oncoming at you. We took the dimming covers off our accessory lights and this helped.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4486/...e55cd764_b.jpg FILE1937 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Hi Guys
I am keeping up with the RR, and I see you are getting very close to Thailand now.
As I am presently riding in North Thailand it would be my honour to meet up and shake all you Guys hands for such an interesting RR you are kindly posting for us all to read.
So if you can post or PM me your expected route with dates in Thailand I would love to meet up somewhere along the way.

Ride Safe

Steve

:scooter::scooter::scooter:

We made another 80 km to where we got gas (from a jerry can, but at least it held 10 litres and had a great no drip spout) and had some lunch (most expensive so far 12$ for one meat stir fry and some rice). It is only going to get worse as we head south.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4444/...2149c7c0_b.jpg FILE2061 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Now we have another 150 km or 2 + hours to Tanggulazhen. As were having lunch the traffic was stopped by the military and 86 huge trucks in a convoy pulled out headed south. We caught up to them in 50 km, but amazingly there was almost no oncoming traffic and we could pass 5-6 of them at a time even up the hill to the second pass of the day at 4639 m.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4449/...5b1f6373_b.jpg FILE2081 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4478/...8ba1108e_b.jpg FILE2022 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4457/...4ea82de9_b.jpg Road to Lhasa-25 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4469/...72e22d02_b.jpg Road to Lhasa-26 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4505/...77e2d533_b.jpg Road to Lhasa-27 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4487/...bf14aab1_b.jpg Road to Lhasa-28 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4444/...a6c2eea7_b.jpg Road to Lhasa-29 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

About 50 km later we found the reason for the limited traffic. A crew was putting tar on the road of a bridge with small shovels. There was about 10 of them blocking the traffic in both directions. The semis could not get thru and the cars going north had pulled beside them and were blocking the south bound lane as well. We went around and then squeezed past the row of cars on the dirt verge.

Now just 50 more km with still lots of trucks to pass, but without much difficulty. Finally we arrived to the town and again gassed up with a good spouted can (It is the small things really that make your day!). We were amazed to see a Maybach filling up here and driving on these terrible roads.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4445/...57bf473c_b.jpg IMG_0082 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

The hotel looks pretty sketch from the outside, but it is actually much better than expected and nice. Heated floor and on demand hot water. It is the most expensive place (400 RMB or 80$) we have stayed yet more than Beijing or Xian. We are happy our Lhassa hotels are “included” as a 3 star runs 200$ US a night. None of us is feeling that bad, but neither of us felt like eating dinner. Dan against my advice had a beer and really regretted it the next day. The town is pretty polluted with coal smoke and this does not help us with the lack of oxygen here.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4491/...9abab46a_b.jpg FILE2126 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4485/...4b5c21d0_b.jpg IMG_0083 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4459/...0fcc0ffb_b.jpg IMG_0084 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4512/...cee033da_b.jpg Road to Lhasa-31 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Dan got a free beer “for being handsome “

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4468/...83e24673_b.jpg Road to Lhasa-32 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4502/...bf86f9fc_b.jpg Road to Lhasa-33 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We were in bed by 10, but up several times to pee as Diamox has a diuretic effect. Then we had banging on the door at 330 and it was Trevor saying Orvar was not well. He had gone down to the bike to get water and was dizzy. We woke the guides and they got some O2 from the car. Sara went in to assess him. He did not have altitude sickness, but more of the same general fatigue and poor nutrition. While she was there Trevor started vomiting. Now this is something to worry about as he clearly has altitude sickness. Sara started them both on Diamox anyway and we all tried to get some sleep. Orvar has lost a lot of weight and is not taking care of himself, but he does not appear to have Altitude sickness at least.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4444/...e9d89c24_b.jpg Road to Lhasa-34 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Trevor was nauseated and had a headache in the morning and he bought an O2 travel bag and some nasal tubing. After sucking back one bag he felt pretty good and the hotel filled it up again for him to take for tonight.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4511/...8082d226_b.jpg Road to Lhasa-36 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

When we went out to the bikes they were covered with frost and it was -1. We decided to wait a bit for it to warm up. We thus set out an hour late at 9 am and it was 2.5 degrees. We have 412 km to Nagqu Tibet!

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4462/...ca4e3ce38b.jpg Screen Shot 2017-09-27 at 18.32.15 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4476/...ce8bf09c_b.jpg Road to Lhasa-35 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4449/...c92898f1_b.jpg IMG_0088 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4491/...6b5fdf08_b.jpg FILE2130 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

The road today is again in pretty bad shape and the number of trucks is insane. This is a real work out and probably some of the most intense all round days we have had. There is almost nowhere to stop. If you must stop on the verge you are taking your life in your hands.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4460/...22e1d6ba_b.jpg Road to Lhasa-37 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4459/...b9a8527c_b.jpg FILE2157 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4477/...a5c125e2_b.jpg FILE2243 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We hit the first check point of the day and this took about an hour. A lot of checking of paper work and searching the gear. Trevor had his Jetboil fuel canister confiscated. While we were checking Trevor noted his Nescafe jar had opened in the top box and he cleaned it out and took it off to get the worst out. About 10 km later he was just in front of us and the top box came crashing off…he did not notice. Dan picked it up and waited for the van. Top box that was born in China died in China!

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4473/...9c6600a4_b.jpg FILE2194 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4449/...aab8b150_b.jpg FILE2202 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We did stop at the highest pass today at 5234 m, but did not stay long.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4499/...ece71fe4_b.jpg Road to Lhasa-38 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4505/...8125201b_b.jpg Road to Lhasa-39 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4506/...1e291fbd_b.jpg Road to Lhasa-40 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4477/...34e0fd63_b.jpg Road to Lhasa-44 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4490/...93870661_b.jpg Road to Lhasa-45 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4503/...1da44e88_b.jpg IMG_0092 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

I have followed your travels from day one. I am totally blown away from your adventures. Not sure where your final destinations will take you but will be following your progress and hoping for the best. Take care and safe journey.

Quote:

Originally Posted by lectron (Post 573491)

Thanks so much! We are in Cambodia right now and plan to ship to Oz in early December!!! Cheers. S&D!

It was then down from there to Amdo after 276 km. We had crossed into Tibet, but there is no marker at least in English. The last 20 km it was raining and at times almost snowing. It was pouring when we got to the town, but by the time we made it to the far side it was sunny. The gas stations here you must show your ID card even to get into the station. There is a gate and a policeman checks ID. They saw us and let us in first and then asked for our DL and gladly sold us fuel…from a can. We had to wait a while for the guides as we knew there was a police check point at the end of town and so we heated up some noodle soups.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4463/...8be435da_b.jpg Road to Lhasa-47 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4451/...37c24f90_b.jpg Road to Lhasa-48 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4457/...f8fb860e_b.jpg Road to Lhasa-46 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

The sky is again looking black in our direction. While we were waiting at the police check there was huge dust storm and the fierce winds blew the black clouds away. We had some wet road, but no rain.

You descend from 4600 m at Ando, but rise again to 4863 over another pass. The descent continues to 4500 m at Nagqu. The number of truck in lines in both direction is mad. About 15 km from the town the road is totally destroyed and the trucks are jostling for position to avoid the deepest holes. We weaved in and out to keep us some speed to get over the biggest dips, which are death defying at a snail crawl.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4468/...15988945_b.jpg FILE2263 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4482/...c0ed590e_b.jpg FILE2288 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4473/...6f928f01_b.jpg FILE2305 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4505/...8e981112_b.jpg FILE2312 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

There is another police check 8 km from town and our guides were 45 min behind us because of the insane traffic. The police were very nice to us, asked us out of the line to park ahead, and invited us into the office with the coal burning stove to warm up and get out of the now brief rain shower. So happy we have the 20$ SIM cars as it has come in so handy to text the team as they are usually far behind us and for the police to call them. They made 3 call while we waited here as they to talk to Toni and Pam, which meant that once they showed up all they did was photocopy our Tibet permits and we were done in 5 min.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4467/...ebc83889_b.jpg FILE2354 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

The ride to the city was uneventful and we were into the hotel by 6. Orvar is again not well but it seems he has what I had in Mongolia more of a low salt issue than altitude. Trevor was initially ok and came down for dinner and then was sick again. He has his O2 bag and we refilled it. Neither has now eaten all day. The plan is to get an early start as we are down hill all the way to Lhasa at 3500 m. The hotel was again ok and pricey. We had just an ok dinner in the hotel “dining room”.

We were again asleep before 10 and had a restful night (no calls or knocking). The hotel include breakfast was also ugh, but there was steamed buns and boiled eggs and we had our own Nescafe so we survived. Both the other 2 did not eat this morning. It is sunny, but 2.5 degrees. We geared up and were about to set out when Orvar was again very dizzy. He recovered and insisted on riding. We had only gone about 6 blocks when he pulled beside be to saw he was unwell and we pulled over. He was sweaty and ill looking and likely hypoglycaemic. We pulled out the glucose ampules we had and he felt better in a few minutes, but we convinced him to ride in the truck.

We have 332 km today to Lhasa and if it is like the last two you need all your wits.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4462/...b414c568_z.jpg Screen Shot 2017-09-29 at 21.53.40 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Our driver Mr Tang is a motocross rider with lots of experience. Orvar’s BMW suit is 4 sizes too big for him and so fits the much larger Mr Tang pretty well. His wind breaker as well, but the helmet is another story since he could not do up the chin strap or put the visor down…this made for some cold riding. We taped up the legs of the rain pants that he wore over long johns and jeans.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4473/...652b0aa9_b.jpg Road to Lhasa-49 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

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https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4494/...0bd0894f_b.jpg FILE2455 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Prostrating Pilgrims on the way to Lhasa.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4488/...fb69d3a7_b.jpg FILE2494 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4446/...b8fef57f_b.jpg FILE2515 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Mr Tang rode the first 160 km to the first check point. We had to stop a few times so he could get the helmet off and warm up. We also stopped a lot today unlike the last few for pictures. The altitude rises to 4700 m and does not drop until about 80 km from Lhasa, which is at 3656 m. It is cold and windy for sure this morning, but better than yesterday. We sure saw a lot of Yaks today. We passed thru a number of small villages, which are much tidier and nicer than most of the Chinese ones we have seen.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4485/...ef55c246_b.jpg FILE2550 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

The road surface as well today is very good. There is much less truck traffic as they stop in Nagqu in the day and then drive at night because they are not allowed to enter Lhasa after 730 am until late in the evening. There was however almost constant construction as they are reinforcing the road on both side with a concrete pad. There is nowhere for construction vehicles to be off the road so they are parked there and traffic fights to get around them.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4498/...cd78e62c_b.jpg FILE2579 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

There was a checkpoint 160 km from Naqgu. We stopped just before it so Orvar could ride the bike thru the Police check. It was fairly quick to get thru. Then we rode the 6 km to Danxung where we got lunch and gas. It was mayhem at the gas station with all the local with small bikes and only 3 cans to fill with. There was some pushing and shoving inside as the locals prepaid for their gas and then running to get a can from a guy filling his bike. For us we could pay after, but you always have an extra liter or 2 and you can not just put it in the jerry can. Dan bought 2 litres from the guys beside us who had too much and so we got a can!!! Orvar gave us his 2 litres he had and then Dan gave a local guy the 1.5 we had left….pay it forward.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4458/...83636a4f_b.jpg Road to Lhasa-66 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4498/...9e0d5e44_b.jpg Road to Lhasa-67 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4473/...4cd04ba5_b.jpg Road to Lhasa-65 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Lunch was noodle soup cooked in a pressure cooker as we are still above 4600 m. We also ran into a Chinese rider here on his way to Lhasa.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4495/...719f9dd4_b.jpg Road to Lhasa-68 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

There is a huge festival starting Oct 1 in 2 days time and Lhasa will become very crowded. All the non tourist businesses will be closed for a week. All the hotels will be booked. This is partly why we have had to press so hard as we had to pre-book and prepay the hotel there for 3 nights (200$ us/night 3 star and this is a good deal for Lhasa). Ours is a very popular hotel as it has an excellent location.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4477/...a0d00227_b.jpg Road to Lhasa-69 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4507/...5e363f1b_b.jpg Road to Lhasa-70 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4484/...75e3f0aa_b.jpg Road to Lhasa-71 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4454/...0b1bf497_b.jpg Road to Lhasa-72 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

For the last three days we have been along or near the new rail line and for all this way there is a security guy is a yellow jacket at every bridge, pillar, overpass, or spot you could plant a bomb. This means every 500 m to 2 km!

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4468/...efa2afcc_b.jpg FILE2592 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We have seen a few crazy bicyclists an a few walkers in the last 2 days, but today we saw many more pilgrims along the roadside. Some were walking 3 steps then throwing themselves to the ground in prostration. They wear special paddles on their hands that slide out along the ground as they slide out flat on their belly. That makes for a very long 300 km. 35 km fro the city we saw masses of pilgrims and in fact they had the oncoming traffic blocked for a km.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4466/...97f4e118_b.jpg FILE2637 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4494/...235d55a0_b.jpg FILE2638 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4483/...21a0dee0_b.jpg FILE2644 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4474/...408544e6_b.jpg Road to Lhasa-73 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Yet another amusing bathroom sign in China

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4499/...6970dcb1_b.jpg Road to Lhasa by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Once we dropped in altitude it suddenly became green everywhere. 63 km from Lhasa there is a checkpoint and we pulled up and were asked to park to the side. We did not have to wait for the guides long and were only there 5 min after they arrived. There is another checkpoint 43 km from the city and it was the same story. We hardly had time to get off the bikes. The road now is thru a deep valley and is more winding.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4493/...782d3c57_b.jpg
About 25 km from the city it is suddenly a 8 lane divided road. We waited for the guides 15 km from the center and then followed them to the hotel. This was a bit of a stressful drive, not that there was that much traffic, but the number of times we were almost taken out by people pulling into our lane from right beside us or merging at high speed was crazy. I think Dan beat his personal record of number of car doors and hoods slammed in payback for nearly hitting one of the 4 of us. It was a long 15 km. About 2 km from the hotel we actually rode right by the Potala palace! We can see it from the street in front of the hotel.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4498/...5058f371_b.jpg FILE2654 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4462/...c6b196fc_b.jpg FILE2662 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4506/...7cc76c53_b.jpg FILE2685 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4455/...29c5f65f_b.jpg FILE2695 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

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https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4459/...a2cc1508_b.jpg FILE2713 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4501/...b0d7894a_b.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4447/...50239132_b.jpg IMG_0097 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4495/...5170175b_b.jpg

In our hotel lobby-an altitude sickness treatment center.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4467/...a824299f_b.jpg IMG_0104 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4499/...3fe7286b_b.jpg IMG_0156 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

THE most important issue now it to get the suits to the laundry as they have never been so disgusting. Luckily there is a laundry across the road and 200 m right from the hotel. The guy there said he could not guarantee how they would look as they were so bad. He has huge industrial machines and so we are sure it will be ok and it is what it is. We are all bagged and made a minor effort to see the streets near the hotel.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4448/...e1222976_b.jpg Lhasa-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4504/...ce74ecb8_b.jpg Lhasa-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

There is a pedestrian overpass 200 m left from the hotel and a great spot for photos and then dinner at steam bun only place. Time laps of Lhasa.

https://youtu.be/d-EvzySU9cE

Today were were up and out by 8 and took the city bus down to the Potala Palace for some great photos. We were delivered here by Pam, but handed off to another guide from his company Suran as Pam needs to secure the Everest base camp/border permits for us. We have to be inside and up some of the 365 stairs to get in for our ticket time of 10.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4473/...4a17ecee_b.jpg Lhasa-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4489/...cc39a883_b.jpg Lhasa by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4464/...6d71cda0_b.jpg Lhasa-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4445/...207753b7_b.jpg Lhasa-13 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4472/...8bb267ff_b.jpg

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https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4467/...c598e16f_b.jpg Lhasa-15 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4489/...8da7d2e6_b.jpg Lhasa-16 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

There are 2 security checkpoints and 2 ticket check points. You can not buy tickets the day of only the day before, which Pam did yesterday after the hotel was finished with the passports. (They must register the passports with the local police here in China). Pam was happy to see we had a coveted 10 am time slot. The ticket has a time and your passport number on it. There are hundreds of locals walking clock-wise around the Palace up to 3 times (2 hours) per day. Some are prostrating the whole way and this takes 3-4 hours for one circuit.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4451/...e9ae8d71_b.jpg Lhasa-20 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4488/...366fcc4e_b.jpg Lhasa-33 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4450/...ebcc0068_b.jpg Lhasa-34 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4461/...c069f1e8_b.jpg Lhasa-35 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

At the first security check point the guard noted that Orvar had a different number on the ticket and the passport he has his Chinese visa in. He had to be in Sweden to get the Chinese and Russian visa, but as they will not issue them more than 60 days before entry that was not possible. In Sweden they have a loop hole for this and will issue you a second passport that you can have the agency obtain visas for you. He had clarified this with Ride China and the Chinese and Tibet entry paperwork had the right number, but they did not update the Tibet travel company here in Lhasa. They decided to let him in, but at the second check point it took a lot more talking by the guides to get him in. This means there may be an issue getting the Everest permit as the paperwork they submitted will have the wrong passport number. Pam has gone off to try. You walk up slowly and take lots of breaks at we are still at altitude. Once you enter the palace there are no photos and you must be in and out in an hour or the travel company will be declined further entry with their groups.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4486/...a957a95f_b.jpg Lhasa-22 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4443/...97eba59d_b.jpg Lhasa-21 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4460/...b753db84_b.jpg Lhasa-23 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4471/...6ebdb3b5_b.jpg Lhasa-26 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4487/...0ca2cb82_b.jpg Lhasa-27 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4468/...1b12fb8a_b.jpg Lhasa-28 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4505/...1aaed99c_b.jpg Lhasa-29 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4494/...2f929c49_b.jpg Lhasa-30 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Then it was a death defying rickshaw ride back towards the hotel and the Jokang Temple. The poor driver got cut off by several cars and then a bus!

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4511/...86c418fe_b.jpg Lhasa-36 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4478/...e2fb610c_b.jpg Lhasa-37 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://youtu.be/UClkWtKnBHE

The entry to the Jokang square is thru a security check, which took some taking as Pam has our passports right now. There are hundreds of people walking around the temple here also and dozens prostrating at the gates.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4497/...7c3d877f_b.jpg IMG_0134 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4444/...00e90cc2_b.jpg Lhasa-38 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4487/...565aa29f_b.jpg Lhasa-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4514/...a30d4762_b.jpg Lhasa-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4496/...5481f07c_b.jpg Lhasa-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Just inside the main Jokang temple gate entry there are separate queuing lines for pilgrims and tourists, but then they all join back up after 20 m and then funnel thru the one narrow door into the central building. There are also people exiting this way even though it is not the exit and this is causing mayhem.

Inside the line to the left is not moving because several hundred pilgrims are waiting in a special line to get closer to the “living” Buddha. We went right and into the main assembly/ chanting hall. From our side of the barrier we could see the naked Buddha, but the crush of people pushing on the other was truly something else. It was actually a bit scary. There are no photos inside.

The real exit is thru the stairs to the upper patio and then back out onto the street. Only the tourists are going this way and so the crowd is much thinner.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4443/...28e0b54c_b.jpg Lhasa-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Counting the money donations!

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4508/...2dc57244_b.jpg Lhasa-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4507/...6bcf6ca5_b.jpg Lhasa-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4474/...7f8857fc_b.jpg Lhasa-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4507/...0c16b9f2_b.jpg Lhasa-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4450/...990a60dd_b.jpg Lhasa-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4508/...9b455a9e_b.jpg Lhasa-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4497/...786fc7d6_b.jpg Lhasa-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We are hungry and had a quick lunch and then headed to the hotel at 2 for a well deserved rest. We only went out at 4 for a few minutes to get our clean laundry and SUPER clean suits!!!

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4467/...3f546cf3_b.jpg Lhasa-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We did not venture out again until after 6. We walked the 20 minutes down to the Potala square for some photo op and dinner at a local only place.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4511/...3bb5be16_b.jpg Lhasa-13 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4454/...e6edda4e_b.jpg Lhasa-15 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4487/...64a74c2c_b.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4493/...21dbfc2b_b.jpg IMG_0146 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4476/...b3eecd8a_b.jpg Lhasa-16 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4492/...9bbca28c_b.jpg IMG_0157 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

The Swede is not doing well physically. He has not been eating or sleeping well for several months and is malnourished. This with being 65, a brutal week so far, and the altitude he is done. We sent him off to the state clinic for assessment. He was seen there and got some IV fluid, glucose, and vitamin for a whopping 20$ US.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4470/...bb7297e8_b.jpg IMG_0166 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4474/...c3b12a5d_b.jpg IMG_0167 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4498/...2636c5d2_b.jpg IMG_0168 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4446/...68054bf9_b.jpg IMG_0169 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Today the rest of us are headed to the “KTM” Lhasa’s shop , which is about 5 km from the city center. They have agreed to let us use their shop and drop our used oil there. It is a very clean and nice shop. In the van we had brought the oil organized by ride China, but surprisingly they have oil here (unlike every other motorcycle dealer sine we left the EU) !! They also had a replacement lamp bulb for the 800 Adventure and a power washer to give the bikes a bit of a clean. Trevor was kind enough to do the work on Orvar’s bike since his Twin was done in Beijing.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4470/...2fd12cf1_b.jpg IMG_0162 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4450/...82272f7a_b.jpg IMG_0163 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4504/...2af9e7c0_b.jpg IMG_0165 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4494/...d6aa75f2_b.jpg IMG_0170 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4489/...913e1442_b.jpg IMG_0174 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Just as we were leaving 3 Chinese riders pulled up and they are also on the way to Everest. They told us they had met other rider that said the road to Tingri (staging town to get to the Everest base camp) is closed daily 0730-1930 for construction AGGGGGH).

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4480/...7063ba39_b.jpg IMG_0179 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4493/...408408e3_b.jpg IMG_0182 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Lunch was at a Muslim place so Lamb ribs and beef. We stopped on the way to sample these “egg Mcmuffin” deals.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4503/...38d4f98b_b.jpg Lhasa-18 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4465/...18b6693c_b.jpg Lhasa-17 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We took the bus back down to the Potala square to take part in the daily ritual of the locals to walk clockwise around the palace spinning prayer wheel as you go. It is not too crowded at 430 as the busy time is the morning.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4446/...943516ba_b.jpg Lhasa-19 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4484/...22af64e3_b.jpg Lhasa-20 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4467/...3c35b2ef_b.jpg Lhasa-21 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4506/...b6c6af70_b.jpg Lhasa-22 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4499/...906c688c_b.jpg Lhasa-23 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4505/...dea2b949_b.jpg Lhasa-24 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4458/...25da6802_b.jpg Lhasa-25 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We hopped the bus back to the Jokang temple area and the old town and wander on Barkhor Street. We did but a small set of Tibetan prayer beads and a souvenir. This also allowed us to do some of the circuit of the Temple itself that again the local and pilgrims walk clockwise. Our guides met us for dinner tonight on their day off, which was nice as Mr Tong can really order the best food.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4512/...320c20fa_b.jpg Lhasa by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Today we are only going 272 km to Shigatze (Rizkaze, Riz Ka Ze, Xigatze depending on which language you use) on a good quality road that winds along the river. The best part is we only go up 300 m.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4466/...38863d7b6e.jpg Screen Shot 2017-10-01 at 22.26.39 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4472/...91d6de6d_b.jpg Screen Shot 2017-10-01 at 22.26.27 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

First drama of the trip occurred as we were leaving the hotel and turning right onto a 4 lane divided road. There was a bus parked in the right lane and the van pulled out into the left lane as no traffic was coming. Trevor was the first bike and when he pulled out there was an idiot on a moped going 50 km/h the wrong way down the the road and ran right into him. Bike down, but no damage. The guy of course took off. Trevor was not hurt in the crash, but wrenched his back as he was getting the bike up. He is in a lot of pain and all we have is Advil. We rode 8 km to the outskirts and stopped at a pharmacy and the guides went in and came out with some sprays. I gave him my Kidney belt and off we went.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4501/...2d200485_b.jpg FILE2724 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4448/...0e846ab2_b.jpg FILE2725 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

There were 3 police checks in the first 150 km and we were waved thru. We stopped 144 km from the city for lunch and gas. There is a major check point 100 km from the city and we arrived about 15 minutes before the guides, but once they arrived we were out in less than 5 minutes. There is much less traffic on the G318 and almost no big trucks. There are several nice canyons and a few small neat Tibetan villages along the way.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4502/...0ec6ebd9_b.jpg FILE2741 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4496/...34d0f92a_b.jpg FILE2758 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4514/...79c895d9_b.jpg FILE2764 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4474/...fa2d0516_b.jpg FILE2807 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

San dunes as well!!

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4479/...1f9aea92_b.jpg FILE2783 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

That said it still took 7 hours to get 272 km to Shigatze.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4458/...3025943f_b.jpg Shigatse by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

The hotel does not look like much from the outside, but the lobby is amazing with ornate woodwork painted in bright colors. The rooms have the look of a sultans bedroom.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4508/...82253ecb_b.jpg IMG_0188 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4465/...fce4a0dc_b.jpg IMG_0189 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4449/...a9f30256_b.jpg Shigatse-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4501/...93ce4fec_b.jpg Shigatse-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We took a taxi across town for 2$ to a traditional Tibetan restaurant and tried “Yak” butter tea, which is actually quite nice as well as other local specialties.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4476/...8581623a_b.jpg Shigatse-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We have confirmed the road closure for tomorrow even though we had hoped there would be a break in the construction this week for the national holiday. This means we must be past the police check point before 0730 and this is 150 km away at Lhaze. We need to be up at 4 and on the road by 430 for the 237 km to Tingri.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4460/...ac0780d6_b.jpg Screen Shot 2017-10-01 at 22.28.04 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4489/...56ce2d4d_b.jpg Screen Shot 2017-10-01 at 22.28.28 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We had packed all our gear in the truck last night and the guides left before 4 as they have to deal with the speed control. They did however get us a packed breakfast from the hotel for later this morning. The moon is full and lighting our way.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4482/...57bd986e_b.jpg FILE2825 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4497/...f460dfe4_b.jpg Shigatse-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4444/...5196e79e_b.jpg FILE2830 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

There is not that much traffic in either direction until about 15 km from the checkpoint. The road condition for the first 100 km is pretty good, but in the next 50 there are large sharp cut outs all over the road, which is a challenge in the dark. We passed the guides about 30 km before the check point and before the first pass. It was 4-6 degrees most of the way. We arrived to the checkpoint at 7am and the guides at 715. It is just a few km to the “construction zone”. This is the 90 km of road that is closed daily. The first 20 are fresh smooth asphalt and then another 20 of old, but not too bad road. This rises to a pass at 5234 m and it is -4. The real road construction started just before the summit (marked with a gate) and then down the other side. It is about 6 km in total of bumpy rock/dirt road (In the dark with lots of truck throwing up dust and blinding us with the oncoming lights) We were so happy to see this was not the entire rest of the way.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4460/...1c5c215f_b.jpg Tingri by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4454/...66c30eec_b.jpg

The sun was just rising as we made the descent. This was lucky as we then hit the old road that was paved, but in terrible shape over large sections with huge heaves and holes. The last 50 km it was 0-2 degrees and at the next summit we saw Everest in the distance just as the sun was hitting it…Magical.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4498/...08fa0818_b.jpg Tingri-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

About 3 km from town there is a police check and we went inside to warm up and wait for the guides. The team had also nicely had arranged that we could check in to the hotel when we arrived at 930.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4475/...9db2deb4_b.jpg FILE2855 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4456/...66efbb59_b.jpg FILE2885 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4494/...5dfb2da2_b.jpg FILE2888 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We spent most of the day in the room with the heat on and under the duvets. It is bright and sunny out and the air temp is about 8, but when the sun hits your skin it is like a laser. We are at 4300m. We did a slow walk of the town, which consists of a few small hotel and guest houses, a gas station, restaurants, and tons of small grocery shops. Orvar has decided he will not ride the bike to the base camp, but will go in the van and he also says he will hire a truck to take the bike back over the mountain (too cold and bad road). We thought it was cold, but not horrible and mostly our toes and finger tips suffered.

We had dinner at at local place and our driver had words with the kitchen because the portions were so stingy (this is so not the Chinese way).

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4473/...e071f0e9_b.jpg Tingri-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
There is solar hot water here and they turn it on at 7, but when we came back from dinner there were two large tourist buses at the hotel and of course no more hot water. Kettle boiled water and a sponge bath it is.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4471/...5bc7b165_b.jpg Tingri-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

The plan for the day is to ride 118 km to the Everest Base Camp at the top of the world.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4467/...227749c5_z.jpg Screen Shot 2017-10-01 at 22.30.12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We can not talk Orvar into going at all now, which seems so crazy as we have ridden all the way here for this! We had a expensive and marginal breakfast at the hotel and set out at 8 to the gas station. The fueling of 3 bikes took a total of 20 min! It was 0.5 degrees when left town. The first stop is the military check point 7 km from away. Here everyone must go into the building and line up for the 1 officer who is entering the ID data by hand into a ledger by hand. Another 20 min here.

There is an incredible new paved road to Everest Base Camp at 17,050 ft or 5200 m. The road crosses multiple 5,000-meter-passes with incredible views of five 8,000-meter peaks.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4496/...6b340711_b.jpg IMG_0233 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

After the check point you then ride another 5.5 km to the entry point for the newest section of the “Friendship” (Chinese-Nepal) highway from Lhasa and pay the 180 RMB each (36$) to pass. The gate is 98 km from the base camp.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4444/...194bcd91_b.jpg Everest by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4471/...849d6899_b.jpg Everest-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Just after here we saw an off road hill climb and of course went up for a better view. Our driver Mr. Tang said he really wanted to follow us up, but was not sure the Jim Bei was up to it.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4444/...5c883079_b.jpg Everest-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4491/...523b7564_b.jpg Everest-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4477/...11a5c2ea_b.jpg Everest-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

About 5 km later at the second view point you get a great vista of the switch back on the down side as well as the cloudless blue sky and the panorama of the mountains. We were all so hot now we had to peal off layers and its only 14 degrees.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4514/...fd6f5fbf_b.jpg Everest-14 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4487/...46e1a039_b.jpg Everest-15 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4461/...f9c64735_b.jpg Everest-16 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4454/...ffe4be9a_b.jpg Everest-17 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Once you descend you ride about 30 km again across the flat valley bottom and then thru several small villages. The last 30 km is again uphill and with some switchback and peek a boo views of Everest. There is a ticket check point and then about 3 km from the end of the road (to where tourist are allowed to drive to) there is another Police passport checkpoint. Then its the last few km with a spectacular view of the mountain. The road ends at a gravel lot surrounded by small tent restaurants.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4467/...b6590b64_b.jpg Everest-34 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We had some noodle soup in one of the tents and then walked 200 m to the “monument” that marks the altitude for a group shot. The guides then headed slowly back now at 230 and we will meet them at the check point at Tingri.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4489/...9626dd04_b.jpg IMG_0206 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4513/...8a07d8fa_b.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4504/...81239f81_b.jpg Everest-19 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4487/...0b8e8be5_b.jpg Everest-22 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

From here it was another 200 m to the monument that marks the elevation at the top of Everest. You can not walk the 500 m to the actual tenting area of the base camp unless you have a climbing permit. The climbers can actually drive to their tent site now. The river water here is slightly murky like glacial runoff and very soft. We enjoyed our time here, but but by 345 we were all tired and Sara had a bit of a headache.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4493/...4d65dfd6_b.jpg IMG_0228 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4446/...6de13ae4_b.jpg Everest-30 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4509/...2b6233cd_b.jpg Everest-31 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4453/...173ac13b_b.jpg Everest-33 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4495/...39f6b501_b.jpg Everest-35 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4513/...fe40e30b_b.jpg Everest-37 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Check out our video from the ride to base camp!

https://youtu.be/yr5BVNR1dLA

Still can not get the embed video link to work on HU!

We did not need to stop at any of the checks for 100 km until Tingri. On the way back we ran into a Vietnamese guy on a tour with ride Asia. His guides bike was in the back of the truck looking thrashed from a car crash. We had no issues at the check point and we passed our guides about 5 km before so they did not have to wait long for us. The line up coming the other direction was insane!

https://youtu.be/TZW5KeBtjvk

In town we went to the gas station and we are getting better at guessing the exact volume of gas we will need. Back at the hotel we put the bikes up on the stands and Dan did his daily once around check that all seems ok. NOT there is a serious issue with the shock on the 650 GS. The shock has snapped off the bottom aluminum shaft and is now swinging free. It must have just let go with the force to get the bike on the stand. WTF do we do now in this tiny village. Well luckily the guides had already made inquires about a truck for Orvar’s bike as he says he will not ride it back over the pass at 5236m. They found a guy with a truck in “Old Tingri” 60 km away thru a fixer. We negotiated him down from 3200 RNB to 2500 (500$). This includes loading and securing 2 bikes, hotel tonight and tomorrow in Shigatze, fuel, and delivering the bikes 250 km away, and returning 310 km home. We still have the same issue of the road closure and we loaded the bikes tonight as we need to pass the Tingri check point before 630 am.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4524/...88a0bbed_b.jpg Tibet Everest by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We were up and out and at the check point for 630 and the truck with the bikes had gone earlier and was thru already. It is 3 degrees when we left town and minus 6 at the top of the pass. Dan said he had to stop and take his gloves off and put his hand down into his pants just to get them warm enough to keep going.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4453/...5e0d42f5_b.jpg IMG_0238 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Luckily it was soon 8 degrees on the down side as the sun was now up. We had 90 km to go of the construction zone and we met Trevor and Dan at the check point at 8 am. They had been cruising, but only beat us by 10 min and the bikes on the truck arrived shortly after us. It was all downhill 150 km to Shigatze and we met the guys at the edge of town.

We were at the same hotel and there was no good spot to unload the bikes, but luckily there is a construction site next door and a bunch of the men there helped to lift the bikes out. Then to get the shock out! Not as easy as it seems as the top bolt is bent. We could unscrew it and release the fitting, but could not thread the bolt thru. So brute force and repeated whacking with a pipe on the socket extender did the job. Lunch was a quick beef noodle soup across the street. Also for a well deserved beer.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4574/...8664df93_b.jpg Tibet Shigatse-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Dan and Trevor, the driver ,and the Tibet guide spend 3 hours driving around to find someone to weld for us and also to find a new top bolt. They wrapped the shock in wet towels during the weld, but we are worried about the seal.

Bathroom at the welders

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4549/...9a7d5f03_b.jpg Tibet Shigatse-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

The install was smooth a silk and we hope then weld will do the job. The seal seems OK so far. We went back to the same place for dinner and Mr Tang came thru again with a great meal. The owner gave us a huge discount as well (dinner is usually 35-50 RMB each and tonight with this huge meal it was 25).

We only gave 93 km to go today to Gyangze (Me la) at 3977 m and so we got to sleep in and leave after breakfast at just after 9.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4510/...d7a9750d_b.jpg Screen Shot 2017-10-06 at 21.32.35 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We came down to the bike and unfortunately there is a small pool of shock oil. The weld seems good, but the shock was spewing oil one we got going. Not much we can do now. We will try the bicycle inner tube and tie down trick to try to get out of China. We will contact YSS Germany thru the dealer we used there and see what they can do for us. So far this shock has cost us 1400$ including purchase price, shipping, truck transport, and welding. It has been stellar otherwise especially the height.

We set off and kept the speed to 90 km for the ride today. Arriving to the city they would not sell us gas at the first station at the edge of town. We were directed to THE station in the city center that motorcycles can buy gas at and told us we would need to register with the police to be able to get gas there. At the station there was a line of 10 guys at the pump and the side of the lot was full of bikes. The computer system was down and who knows when it will be back up. So to the hotel is and we will try in the morning.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4517/...ee79df96_b.jpg Tibet_-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We arrived to the Yeti hotel, which again looks like a disaster on the outside , but it is lovely inside.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4504/...64d998fe_b.jpg IMG_0244 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We contacted Wolfgang in Germany who had purchased and shipped the shock to us. He contacted the distributor, who contacted YSS and explained the situation, and Tomas at Twowheel got back to us with the Bangkok head office contact within an hour. This is Friday afternoon of course. We contacted YSS and they got back to us within 3 hours that they would send us an express post new shock ANYWHERE and ASAP. Wow amazing service. The issue for us is we need to sort out whether we can have this shipped to China (not likely or long delay with duty involved) or more likely to northern Laos.

Well we are at a new low for theta today! Trevor is unable to even get out of bed this morning with the spasms and pain in his back. He is in agony. We really have no choice but to get him moving or we will have to make up the km tomorrow. We loaded him up with Advil and Flexeril and after 2 hours he could walk to the van. The guides spent that 2 hours trying to find a truck for his bike with no luck. Mr Tang has agreed to ride it the 310 km to Shannan (Lhoka) he even fits into all of Trevor’s gear.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4503/...9c53117d_b.jpg Screen Shot 2017-10-09 at 18.29.13 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Mr Tang did buy his own helmet in Lhasa after the Orvar experience. This means we left the hotel at 1030 instead of 830 and we still had an additional 30 min just to get gas.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4498/...c1d6c24e_b.jpg Frame-19-10-2017-15-41-56 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4470/...889832cb_b.jpg Frame-19-10-2017-15-43-01 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4545/...fe41d0ef_b.jpg Tibet_-19 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Well WE THOUGHT we had hit rock bottom as a team 3 hours ago, but that was until 10 km from town when the weld let go on the 650! Sara pulled over immediately when she felt the clunk. To be honest she is totally demoralized right now and actually burst into heart broken tears. WTF do we do now. Stuck on the side of the road with an un-drivable bike and 10 days from the Chinese border with Laos. We had already tried unsuccessfully to hire a truck for Trevor. The guides think it will be impossible here in Tibet for any amount of money. The truck drivers simply don’t want to do it.

Dan has an idea! Mr Tang to the rescue as he agreed if we measured the bike we could try to put it in the van. No issue with the windscreen off and the bars dropped. We siphoned off the fuel we had just put in and lifted Lulu into the van, settled her on the side stand and packed all the other gear to support her.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4562/...5b5bab22_b.jpg Tibet_-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4545/...6a6c4a46_b.jpg Tibet_-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4519/...93ddaca8_b.jpg Tibet_-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4552/...f44de454_b.jpg Tibet_-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4545/...742de951_b.jpg Tibet_-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4531/...e1937979_b.jpg Tibet_-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

That means 2 up for the WWR. The views today are stunning. The first pass is up to 4600 M and past the dam and reservoir. We are trying to put on a brave face, but with Trevor in agony and Lulu a disaster it is pretty hard right now for all of us. We are on the edge anyway as we are mentally and physically exhausted after the last 6 months.

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https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4552/...78563f0c_b.jpg Tibet_-13 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4544/...a272a05c_b.jpg Tibet_-14 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

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https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4515/...6ce6c325_b.jpg Tibet_-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4555/...24870aac_b.jpg Tibet_-23 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We headed further up and past a glacier hanging on the mountainside.

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https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4553/...d0f339c8_b.jpg Tibet_-18 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4547/...d7647317_b.jpg Tibet_-26 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Just around the corner there was a commercial view point. Once the guide van showed up where some guy walked up and wanted 10$per bike each for parking….we said ahh no. We had already taken our pics anyway!

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4547/...36f302d2_b.jpg Tibet_-20 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

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https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4541/...989475cb_b.jpg Tibet_-28 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

The last 70 km were hell with the truck traffic. We had 4 police checks today and we made it thru with the bike as cargo. It is illegal to have cargo and passengers in the same vehicle in China. The guides told the police that Trevor was too sick to ride and appealed to their sympathy. It worked for day 1. We arrived to Shannan and finally found THE gas station for bikes. With all the “issues” of China/Tibet with government control and insane rules this was 1 hour to get gas for 3 bikes. Finally to the hotel at 715. This is a common design feature in the bathrooms of China…. Not so good for Orvar and Trevor! The shower in the toilet/sink space is not ever a good idea!

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4513/...4a60bbae_b.jpg IMG_0252 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4501/...458f00c8_b.jpg IMG_0253 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We walked to a local place for dinner and the whole kitchen staff came out to check us out. We had tea leaves deep-fried with pork and chillies, cauliflower with bacon in a hot pot, shrimps and vegetable, and glutenous rice with pork.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4457/...a1ff2ccb_b.jpg IMG_0255 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4500/...5dd8f961_b.jpg IMG_0260 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4472/...e8858eb8_b.jpg IMG_0261 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Now what to do with Lulu? Our options for the next 5 days in Tibet and to keep her in the van and hope the police will let us go. This means Sara must ride in the van a play sick at the checks. This means we could be fined 40-400$ if the police refuse to let us thru. The other option is to try and find a truck in Tibet, which will prove very difficult and very expensive. We will take our chances. From Shangri-La in China we could have ride China pre-arrange a truck to transport Lulu from there the 5 days to the Chinese/Laos border. This still leaves us with a broken bike there, but there is “not a no mans land there” and we would only have to "push the bike 200 m” to get to Laos according to Toni. We should be able to get a truck easily there as well according to MotoLaos. We also need to have the shock shipped asap from Thailand.

Today we thought we would have 451 km to Nyingchi (Nyinzhi).

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4464/...cb8ed13a_b.jpg Screen Shot 2017-10-09 at 18.32.45 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

I had consulted the Ride China itinerary and it was clear to me that a portion of the day was unpaved or pavement in poor repair. I thought for Trevor’s back this would be an issue and so I consulted our “guide” Toni. He assured me the road was entirely paved and “exactly like today’s road”. It will become obvious later that he had no idea what the road is like and just blew me off with what he thought I wanted to hear. Trevor is well enough to ride today and we set out just after 830. We had gone 50 km and thru 2 police checks to find the road closed for construction and we were sent on a detour to the next road over and this rejoins our original route. Then another 10 km later we are at another police check and It is clear to me from the arm waving of the police to other drivers that there is an issue ahead. I bring this up with the guides and they again blew me off. We went another 25 km up the mountainside on switchbacks to a 4 th police check with a gate blocking the road. They say the road ahead is very bad and too rough for the van. So back track 40 km to the more major road and finally head east. It is slow going in the van with the speed camera and the point to point speed checks.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4500/...86f53e98_b.jpg Screen Shot 2017-10-09 at 18.33.35 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4495/...27dbf675_b.jpg IMG_0265 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

I lost count of the number of check point we went thru today. One even had dogs sniffing the van inside and out. None of the police seemed to care there was a motorcycle in the van. We stopped for lunch at 3 and we still have 234 km to go. There was gas here and that took 20 min for the 3 bikes of course. After lunch there were very few checkpoints and at most we were just waved thru.

We were still 88 km from the city at 645 and it will be dark at 730. The guys were ahead and as there were no real check points they ended up 12 km from town on the secondary road (motos not allowed on the express way) when they called us. We had just spent 5 min sitting on the side of the road to make the minimum time for the point to point speed cameras and we are 50 km from town. The driver decides we must have gas with 50 Km to go! We pull into the gas station where there are 3 cars in line. They gate off the stations here that have 6-8 pumps, but only let one vehicle in at a time and only after registering with the police. We pulled in and the driver got out to register for gas and when he got back he pulled in behind the third car. After 10 min 2 cars had moved and another policeman came to tell him that he must have cut in and go to the back of the line which now has 10 cars in it. (Much yelling and arguing in Chinese followed) and we left.

It is now 745 dark and raining. I had told the guide that the guys were on the secondary road at a gas station 12 km from town with no-one in line. Despite that they flew by the turn off and onto the expressway. AGH! Lucky I could call the guys back and they went to town to the first exit of the expressway. We had 50 km to go and the tank supposedly on fumes. We did meet them luckily since the guides idea was to send them the name of the hotel in Chinese and told them to ask for directions. I informed him that would not help much as they were highly unlikely to understand the Chinese directions. 2 km from the hotel the driver again decides he should get gas at a station with 8 cars in line! Its 9 pm and raining and the guys have been on their bikes for 12 hours except the 20 min for lunch. I though Dan would loose it. Luckily the pair of them changed their minds and went directly to the hotel instead. That said we are all pissed off and shattered when we arrived to the hotel at 9 pm showered, and went straight to bed without dinner.

Dan and Sara had a team meeting at breakfast to discuss our concerns with how it went yesterday (total disaster). We stated that we know it is not the Chinese way to confront issues like this directly, but that it is the western way and we need to deal with the problem before we can go on. We said that the guides inability to admit he did not know the road, caused us not to have enough information to make a different decision, and eventually caused the riders personal safety to be jeopardized. If we were on our own we would not have just blindly gone with an injured rider. We vented and said our safety depends on them and we need to be able to trust them. We decided to put it in the past and move on. We also again expressed how grateful we are to Mr. Tang for transporting the bike and of course we do not expect him to do this for free.

Today at Mr Tang’s suggestion we cut the itinerary short to just 231 km to Bome (Pome), so that we could have a shorter day and also stay in a bit larger town with more hotel options than the one we originally planned and is farther down the road.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4478/...8d98bbce_b.jpg Screen Shot 2017-10-09 at 18.34.04 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

The road is curvy most of the day and we had a few sprinkles of rain until the last 10 km when it was heavier. Sara was in the van today for the first 100 km and until the first traffic police stop. Unlike the checkpoints who could care less about the bike in the van the traffic police were very concerned. They were actually more upset that a foreigner was IN the van as our permits here are only for “riding on a motorcycle” and not riding in a car/van. They decided to let us thru with a warning, but as soon as we caught up to the guys she suited up and rode with Dan.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4464/...28b03db2_b.jpg IMG_0270 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4554/...4957d804_b.jpg Tibet_-37 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4550/...d66f8278_b.jpg Tibet_-38 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4574/...47b469ff_b.jpg Tibet_-39 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4549/...11ae1bb3_b.jpg Tibet_-40 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4575/...50129e57_b.jpg Tibet_-41 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4519/...207e2ef9_b.jpg Tibet_-42 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4561/...15022279_b.jpg Tibet_-43 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Amazing as always guys, sorry to hear about the issues. Looks like road fatigue is setting in big time now, be good to get some R&R in Oz methinks. Keep on keeping on!

Gino

Yes we are burnt! We have rearranged our schedule to take the pressure off. Also getting into Thailand was a huge relief.

We spent the day at YSS and they cheered us up with custom build front and rear suspensions for both bikes. A silver lining to the disaster. They were even personally adjusted for us by the head of their race division who flew in from Amsterdam today coincidentally for the Chaing Mai bike week.

Cheers.

SP

There were only 2 other minor stops the rest of the day and they were not concerned with the bike in the van PHEW! The other nice thing today was there was very little traffic and almost no heavy trucks. The views are mostly from the valley floor along the river except for first thing when we ascended one pass to 3000 m . We saw a lot of bicycle riders on their way to Lhasa and quite a few pilgrims as well.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4582/...584781c1_b.jpg Tibet_-48 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4521/...1c144a7e_b.jpg Tibet_-49 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4528/...7daf0c45_b.jpg Tibet_-50 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We arrived to Bome just after 4 and managed to get gas in less than 30 min. We of course had 1.5 l too much and they freaked out when we suggested the jerry can and so we gave it to the girl on the scooter behind us in line and she was thrilled!

The hotel is across the river in the new/Chinese part of town, but very nice. It started to pour just after we got here and it is pretty chilly. They have electric heating pads on the bed (which is still hard and like sleeping on plywood) We are getting closer to Sichuan and Yunnan and the food is spicier here for sure.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4446/...d6d4ac32_b.jpg IMG_0273 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

We have heard from YSS Suspension and they will ship us the shock to Luang Prabang ASAP!! We have also been in contact with the riding community and have had advise and offers of help from Gt-Riders, Ride Asia, and Moto Laos! Thanks to you all for assisting us!

Today we have a whopping 410 km to Zogang and 2 passes with the first just over 4600 and the second at 5000m. This will be a slow day of switchbacks especially with the rainy weather predicted. The van is the limiting factor mostly because of the point to point speed cameras. It poured rain all night and it was still light rain at 715 am when we loaded up in the underground parking. It was light just before 730 and we set out. Sara opted for the van with the 5 degrees and rain, but it actually cleared up pretty quickly.

The road is very good and there is really very little traffic. There was only one real military check point today and they did not care about the bike. The rest of the day there were 3-4 police checkpoints, but none of them even looked at us when we slowly rode by. We made it just over 100 km and over the first pass to have breakfast about 945. It was still raining on and off until about 20 min later and Sara was able to finally get out of the van and pillion again.

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4461/...b30d615d_b.jpg FILE2996 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4470/...1199887c_b.jpg FILE3057 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

“Pillion’s view”

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4457/...14252fdc_b.jpg FILE3055 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr

Your ogoning adVenture

Hello your pictures are beyond description. You mention Shangrila in one of your comments (one of my required readings in junior high school.). Really empathizing with the things you were expierincing as you were getting close to Laos. Hope you made connection and got your shock replaced. You guys are amazing and I have adopted your moto. I'm sure destiny is favoring your future. I hope to meet you down the road. Have ridden all the lower 48 states.