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Today we will drop the bikes off at the SDV freight forwarders, which is 18 km from the city at the cargo port. They have agreed to store the bikes for the 2 weeks no charge. We rode out there and parked in the warehouse only to be told we had to go to customs first (in the city) and get the carnet cancelled. (They failed to add this in the email to us of course!)
This is a crazy system, because once we get the stamp we could technically sell the bike here is Oz and fly out and still collect on the carnet?!? Whatever, we did just go to customs, get and stamp, and then rode away without them even asking for proof that we had booked export! Then it was back to the SDV to pass away the riding gear, disconnect the batteries, and lock up the luggage. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1756/...bd25706a_b.jpgDarwin_-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/981/2...53b8e7ce_b.jpgIMG_2680 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/962/4...467c70a6_b.jpgIMG_2679 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1739/...d4b602cc_b.jpgDarwin_-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
Not sure when we will have internet capable of updating and uploading photos of the road trip in OZ, but here is some good news!
We arrived to Timor last night and the bikes are arriving on the ship tonight!! https://farm1.staticflickr.com/975/4...b2eb49b6_b.jpgTimor Leste by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
You two have been my lunch time entertainment for some time now. Thank you for staying the course. Enjoy Timor
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Glad to have you along! Timor Leste was epic. We are now on Flores. 12 hour ferry arrived last night at midnight. So currently zzzzzz
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https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1739/...72f20cf7_b.jpgScreen Shot 2018-06-04 at 20.29.27 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr
Today we pick up our free “rental” van for repositioning. It will cost us about the same as 3 bikes would on gas for the same distance. We were told to come to the agency at 10 am, but we could not get it until 1230 as there were putting on new tires. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/973/4...f2703d7b_b.jpgIMG_2683 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr They loaned us a station wagon to do some running around and to get groceries. We finally set out at 130 and headed back down the Stuart Highway to Mataranka Homestead. We managed to miss happy hour by 7 minutes, but at least they had some good live music again. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/955/4...4d1772df_b.jpgScreen Shot 2018-05-06 at 20.37.06 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1755/...318c7cb9_b.jpgAustralia Van by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
Today we have a big day as we hope to get past 3 Ways and hopefully to the Devils’ Marble’s in 668 km. We finally set out at 930 south again.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/943/4...9aff93c4_z.jpgScreen Shot 2018-05-06 at 20.37.23 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1751/...5338ab02_b.jpgAustralia Van-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1757/...7c42fbc5_b.jpgAustralia Van-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
Most of the day we were retracing our steps 547 km to the Three Ways Roadhouse and past millions of termite mounds (oddly dressed up in clothes every so often). From here we had another 121 km south to Devil’s Marbles Conservation area.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1751/...eb60cb6d_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1749/...f8dee2af_b.jpgAustralia Van-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1743/...c94f2859_b.jpgAustralia Van-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr We arrived here just after 430 and there flies were horrific. We got a “site” for $3.30 pp and donned our bug nets. The “marbles” are pretty cool and the light at sunset was stunning. The best part of sunset is the flies disappear. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1760/...9b8c4de9_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1738/...1609ecea_b.jpgDevils Marbles Australia-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1725/...41b32490_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1744/...7a1127fa_b.jpg We also went back after dinner to get some milky way photos. It is so dark here even right after sunset you can see the Milky way. Usually we have to get up in the middle of the night, but it was clear as day at 830 pm. It is a bit chilly tonight and I think it was around 10 in the night. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1758/...ecf5e83c_b.jpgDevils Marbles Australia-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1732/...441c7415_b.jpgDevils Marbles Australia-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr Dan got up at 615 for sun rise. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1745/...8efa94f0_b.jpg |
We set out south again 412 km for Alice Springs. We were expecting some Outback back eddy out in the middle of nothingness.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/971/4...ce93a727e3.jpgScreen Shot 2018-05-06 at 20.37.38 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr The road is almost straight and the landscape flat, but surprisingly pretty green with small trees and brush. We stopped in at Whycliffe Wells Road house for gas."But Wycliffe Well is not just another roadhouse — it is the self-proclaimed UFO Capital of Australia. According its own brochure, "UFO sightings are so common, that if you stayed up all night looking, you would be considered unlucky not to see anything, rather than lucky to see something”. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1722/...223becac_b.jpgDevils Marbles Australia-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1739/...5978aeed_b.jpg About 30 km north of Alice we crossed the Tropic of Capricorn. You can not stop for long as the flies are terrible . We had to make and eat our lunch inside the van. To go out you have to wear your bug hat or the drive you mad. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1733/...43e6c4cb_b.jpgTropic of Capricorn Australia by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1722/...eaf2dd4e_b.jpgTropic of Capricorn Australia-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr Alice is quite a big modernish town and not quite what we expected. They did have a large Coles to stock up and a BWS. The police are stationed here at the liquor store to monitor purchases, but they seem only interested in those who people who are aboriginal! https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1741/...2194e09a_b.jpgAlice Springs Sign Australia-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1747/...1a04dc64_b.jpgCoober Pedy Australia-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr For a treat we booked onto a powered site at the G’day mate park. They have huge grass sites and great showers. The flies are not too bad here even in the daytime. In the desert here is 35 in the day time, but often as low as 5 degrees at night. In fact last night they said it was 2 degrees. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/965/4...4a98f791_b.jpgIMG_2704 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
Now for the big rock at the “red center”! South from here it is 204 km to the turn of at Erldunda to see “The Rock” and it really is getting redder in colour. There are also no more acres of termite mounds as it must be to hot and dry here.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/824/4...c993473e_b.jpgScreen Shot 2018-05-06 at 20.37.57 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr On the road to the centre there is views of mount Connor (the rock everyone mistakes for Ayers rock), low bush, and NO wildlife. In 56 km at Mount Ebenezer Roadhouse there is a free camp, free showers, and gas (199/l up from the usual 155). We have 212 km still to go! https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1734/...414a4dde_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1738/...4dd69833_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1749/...09681413_b.jpg You can see the Ayers rock from a long distance and we arrived to the view point nearest, but outside the paid area. We decided that 75$ for 3 of us was just too much to get closer to a rock. We checked out the “town”, which is basically a gas station (202/l), some hotels, and a camp ground. It has 220 unpowered sites, and there was not one left when we arrived at 430 pm. We had planned to use the free camp 10 km back down the road, but thought we would check here. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1750/...ae8104fc_b.jpg We headed back to the view point for sunset and the relief from the flies! https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1749/...6f5a55f8_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1721/...be052c02_b.jpgUluru Australia-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr The free camp is just off the road 10 km back down the road and we got here just as it was getting dark. In this van we can only go 500 m “off road” in a camp site and plus the road any farther was pretty steep and sandy so we set up camp in the last spot before the sandy hill. From here we walked about 1 km on the road over the next 2 ridges. In the dark we could not see the rock, but we managed to catch it in the Austral photos. We had a good night as it was totally quiet. There was only 2 other vehicles here. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1759/...116d916e_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1747/...259b93a4_b.jpg Only Dan got up for the sunrise! https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1728/...013f1568_b.jpg |
We retraced our route to Mount Ebenezer for gas and a free shower! It is another 56 km to the turn off at Erldunda. From here it is 487 km and 5 hours to the next town of Coober Pedy and we will not reach there by dark.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/947/4...6c0aa484_z.jpgScreen Shot 2018-05-13 at 18.13.57 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr We drove on an almost straight road thru pretty much nothing for 380 km and then pulled off into a free camp 100 km north of Coober Pedy. The ground is red red dirt and it gets EVERYWHERE. There is no one else here and we had tons of dead fall for a nice fire. We had arrived at 530 and had to hide in the van until well after sunset and the flies were HORRIFIC! If you stepped out you had 30 on your face and ears in seconds and they are aggressive. Luckily as soon as the temperature dropped a few degrees they completely disappeared. AHHH the relief. We had another almost cloudless night for star shots. It was getting chilly by 9 pm and so time for bed. The guys stayed up with the fire and a large bottle of scotch! https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1743/...880b3ee0_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1747/...c262554a_b.jpgSouth Australia-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
We had to pack up ASAP at 8 am as soon as the temperature started to rise and the flies were early risers. It was coffee and go. It was an easy 100 km to Coober Pedy.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/955/4...c1c8af7edb.jpgScreen Shot 2018-05-13 at 18.17.17 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1731/...31f35a1d_b.jpgSouth Australia-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr We have slowed it down a bit as at 90-100 we get 150 km more range then at 100-110. On the way to town you pass acres of opal mine fields. There are shafts dug down with huge piles of dirt beside them. In town we asked some locals and were told the best place for breakfast was the Shell station and they were right. This is a weird town with opal fever. It has an amazingly well stocked IGA and with very reasonable prices (for OZ). Like the Big Mac index we have the Magnum index of prices here in OZ( 4-7$ each). There are a few odd underground stores and hotel in old mines and quite a few opal shops as well. I would describe it as weirdly weird. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1728/...ae0e5e5c_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1733/...07e7538c_b.jpgCoober Pedy Australia-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1745/...1c68f5fa_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1757/...eb9c9559_b.jpg The road south from here is incredibly straight. We did see a number of Emu, but only a few road kill kangaroos until very near to Port Augusta where we saw a number of big greys. The terrain is flat mostly, with the occasional rolling hillock. There are a number of dry lakes along the way as well. There are absolutely no real services between Coober and Port Augusta. We really wanted a hot shower and so we were motivated to drive the 45 min after sunset to arrive at a caravan park at 615. We had a cold night here as it id fully cloudy and might even rain. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1745/...fb4116c1_b.jpgSouth Australia-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1748/...061bf547_b.jpgSouth Australia-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1726/...c0009448_b.jpgSouth Australia-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
Today we may not go that far, but as it is inclement weather it is not fitting with our plan to head to the beach at Streaky Bay or onto Smokey Bay for 2 nights.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/903/2...93d51565_b.jpgScreen Shot 2018-05-13 at 18.18.45 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1758/...59b696eb_b.jpgSouth Australia-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr It is extremely windy especially in this high top van. We drove west on the 1 towards Wudinna and then took the cut off road to the coast to meet the B100 at Port Kenny. Here we did a small side trip to see the Murphy's Haystacks. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1733/...44274e38_b.jpgSouth Australia-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1754/...0f161cc6_b.jpgSouth Australia-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr We continued to Streaky Bay, which is not a bad little town with the caravan parks on the sea, but it is blustery and not very nice out. We continued 73 km father to Smokey Bay that is famous for their oyster producers. We stopped by one and bought 2 dozen. We then needed to get to the store for chardonnay and a shucker! It is cold and there are a few drops of rain at times and we are glad to have the van. the local here shared their advice on oyster shucking as well as some of their fresh caught grilled squid! https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1733/...0d62aacb_b.jpgSouth Australia-13 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1728/...43488c26_b.jpgSouth Australia-15 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1738/...970466f3_b.jpgSouth Australia-16 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1731/...f5028abf_b.jpgSouth Australia-17 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
We realized this morning that they have a clothes dryer here and so laundry day it is! We had it all done and were still on the road by 10.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/905/2...97449426_b.jpgScreen Shot 2018-05-13 at 19.24.48 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr We headed back north to join the A1 and then west again. In Ceduna we found the first real shopping for days and we stocked back up, but bare in mind we will hit the WA border quarantine tomorrow and can not have any fresh fruits or veg. Then it is on the LONG STRAGHT Nullabor Highway. Between Ceduna and Ecula for 493 km there are basically only road houses with small shops, camping, and gas pumps. We planned to end our day about 30 km from the border at the Bunda Cliffs. Today we saw quite a few Emu, but no Kangaroos dead or alive. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1733/...6376d050_b.jpgSouth Australia-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1745/...3d187171_b.jpgSouth Australia-18 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1758/...00e2734d_b.jpgSouth Australia-20 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr The exit to the cliffs looks nondescript. You drive 500m thru the dunes and park between them out of the wind. From here it is 150 m to the cliff side that are sheer and very high. It was a bit windy and rainy and we did not have the fire we planned and had collected wood for. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1723/...afc9de86_b.jpgSouth Australia-21 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1757/...93745c60_b.jpgSouth Australia-25 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1750/...25877152_b.jpgSouth Australia-23 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1732/...06cb1dd4_b.jpgSouth Australia-24 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1737/...4fc68a3f_b.jpgSouth Australia-22 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
Setting out today it is cold and cloudy again on the long road west.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/960/4...f9250945_b.jpgScreen Shot 2018-05-13 at 19.25.24 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr We are back on the Eyre Highway for 30 km until we reach the “border” of Western Australia where we will enter our final OZ state. This is really just a quarantine station. You can not bring any fresh fruit and veg. They show you a plasticized card and ask you if you have any of the prohibited items like garlic or potatoes. Then they “search” your vehicle, but come on if you really wanted to smuggle grapes it would be pretty darn easy unless they were in your glove box, fridge, or van kitchen cupboards. They did not look in any of the placed you would actually hide anything. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1747/...6cd1c649_b.jpgSouth Australia-19 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr At Ecula we met Jax who has been riding her postie bike around Australia for the last 3 1/2 years. She is friends with our pals Todd and Chantelle in Darwin as they are Posties too. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1752/...877c4aca_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1759/...c6d5fc83_b.jpgWestern Australia by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr There are only road houses, fuel pumps, and a few stations with RV parks in the 710 km from Ecula to Norseman. The road today even flatter and straighter. We are trying to push as far as we can today in order to have a shorter day tomorrow to Esperance on the beach. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1729/...5fb2f830_b.jpgWestern Australia-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1749/...a960a14e_b.jpgWestern Australia-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr We managed to get to Fraser Range Station by 5pm and checked in just before sunset. There are a huge number of Emu and kangaroo munching on the fresh grass in the camp ground. They have a great camp kitchen here that is warm and cosy. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1740/...57ba7849_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1751/...5f3383e5_b.jpgWestern Australia-13 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1735/...a01488e4_b.jpg |
From here we have a bit of a long day and 483 km to Albany, but all of us have friends there that we want to see.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/952/4...eff1d506_b.jpgScreen Shot 2018-05-13 at 19.26.16 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr It is cloudy and quite cool today and we are all wearing jackets. The scenery today is much more farm land and we did see quite a few Emu with even one herd of 20 or more. We arrived to Albany at the Middleton beach RV park and though the beach was nice it was blowing a gale and 12 degrees at 230 pm. It did get a bit warmer later and enough so that we could walk the 4.5 km to town to meet our friends. Antoinette and Ronnie we had met in Franz Josef glacier in New Zealand. They had arranged for us to meet a few of the people from their motorcycle club. Wow these people have ridden in a lot of places! https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1753/...2259ac8c_b.jpgWestern Australia-19 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
For our last day of touring in the van we will head north west on the secondary roads towards the wine region near Margaret River.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1740/...fbcf4039_b.jpgScreen Shot 2018-05-15 at 20.56.44 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr This is a very scenic windy and perfect motorcycle route! There were maybe a dozen other vehicles all day. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1729/...a39c24d3_b.jpgWestern Australia-20 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr We arrived to Pemberton after 2 for a lunch of pies at the “award winning” baker and then we booked it to Pierro Winery by 415 to taste their chardonnay said to be the best of the region. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1729/...1dccb62d_b.jpgWestern Australia-22 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1758/...c5cc7a35_b.jpgWestern Australia-21 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr It is warm in the sun today, but we still need a sweater. After the tasting we rushed back to Gracetown beach (famous for the 2 recent shark attacks) to enjoy our wine and the sunset. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1731/...faedb580_b.jpgWestern Australia-23 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1739/...c26af7e1_b.jpgWestern Australia-24 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr We had checked into the small RV park here with lots of kangaroos hanging around. We all snugged in the van to warm up. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1747/...8710846e_b.jpgIMG_2757 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
We have just 265 km to go on our trip to Freemantle, but we backtracked back to Margaret River for a fab smoked salmon benny.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/890/4...f3ed9790_z.jpgScreen Shot 2018-05-15 at 20.57.05 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1724/...4c2117d7_b.jpgIMG_2764 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1736/...3dd90b34_b.jpgIMG_2765 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr We managed to finally hit the road after 1030. It is basically straight up the highway all day and we arrived to the Rv park about 330. We are celebrating the end of our road trip with some Margaret River Shiraz and some T bones. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1748/...bfc8c726_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1723/...0e7cc4d6_b.jpg |
We headed to the car wash to clean up our ride and then dropped our luggage at our rental for the next 3 days. The van drop off location is outside the city, but is just a few hundred meters from the metro station. We then took the train into Perth city to do some shopping and sight seeing.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1760/...aee1a12a_b.jpg It is an easy transfer to Fremantle via train as well. This is nice tourist town to hang out in and it is full of cafes, chic restaurants, and bars. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1747/...96bf8f30_b.jpgWestern Australia-30 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1757/...488b546b_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1746/...fc9f55b6_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1745/...494f7338_b.jpgWestern Australia-34 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1725/...fc46ca3a_b.jpg |
We had an Uber pick up at 645 am for the 30 km trip to the Perth airport, a 3 hour flight on Qantas to Darwin, a 2 hour layover, and then a 1 hr 1 5 min flight on Air North to Dili.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1723/...fa8783b4_b.jpgScreen Shot 2018-05-21 at 15.31.56 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1759/...fee2fd9d_z.jpgScreen Shot 2018-05-21 at 15.32.20 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr You change time forward and then back and so we arrived at just before 5 pm. The air was hot and humid and we walked down the stairs to the tarmac. They have an efficient Visa process here on arrival. It is 30 USD (the local currency) and they just put a visa sticker in your passport. It was then a s second line up for passport control, but this was also efficient and easy. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1727/...5bcbf4b5_b.jpgTimor-Leste by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr The taxi’s here are fixed rate and so no problem as well. It is 10$ to the city and most of the area around. Our accommodation is in a traditional Timorese home, that is actually the Mexican Consulate as well. We were greeted by the security guard who gave us a key and said that we could check in after 7. It is Timor Independence Day today and everyone is out at celebration events. We went for a walk in the neighborhood and had dinner at a local hotel on the beach. The people here are friendly and smile and wave. The driving is calm and courteous. YEAH! We returned to the Casa Sandalo to find the owners who warmly greeted us an d told us we had been upgraded to an apartment with a kitchen! We were in bed and asleep by 10 and woke up 12 hours later! We walked over to the ATM for some USD! Then around the corner to the grocery store frequented by the expats and NGO workers. Here you can get a decent coffee and croissant! https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1721/...b558ef6a_b.jpgTimor-Leste-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
Outside it is 34 and humid and the sun is a laser. Our mission first is SIM cards and data! We managed this easily just a few blocks away and got an email with the bills of lading and confirming the ship left Darwin 2 days ago at 430 pm. This means it should be in tonight.
The SDV is actually 3 blocks from out Hotel, but when we stopped in today they are closed until tomorrow. Bad news for Orvar we got an email from SDV in Darwin with the way bills they also sent an email admitting that when they loaded the bikes in the container on the 15 th (its the 21 st) They dropped his bike and smashed the windscreen!!! Bit late to tell us now since we can not replace it here in Timor Leste. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1760/...bfc5c8d9_b.jpgTimor-Leste-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1745/...52876892_b.jpgTimor-Leste-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1758/...40f0b67a_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1728/...8224ddff_b.jpgTimor-Leste-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1755/...1678fe88_b.jpgTimor-Leste-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
We arrived at SDV at 10 and they drove us over to Customs to get the carnet signed and then back to the office. The ship is being unloaded as we speak and our container will be off and available after 3. So we are to come back then, pay out port fees (120 USD each) and then we can go and get the bikes. To kill a few hours we walked into town for lunch and then toured the Museum of the resistance. This chronicles the history of their fight for independence, the genocide by the Indonesians, and the collusion of the USA and Australia with Indonesia to obtain sea oil rights.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1729/...2f92893e_b.jpgTimor-Leste-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1746/...db4eefaf_b.jpgTimor-Leste-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1723/...2ec2da9e_b.jpgIMG_2789 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1726/...0364eb79_b.jpgIMG_2790 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
At 3 pm we get our way bills payed and hop in a taxi to the port. Here we are met by a SDV agent and walked back to the container. They cut the seal and then unload the boxes in front. The 3 bikes are all upright at least and only OV’s is damaged. We unload them, get the batteries connected, and head off to get gas.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1738/...9a811d61_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1751/...e017d43c_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1754/...1baab6cf_b.jpgTimor-Leste-15 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1754/...80147841_b.jpgTimor-Leste-16 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1755/...69ff0e34_b.jpgTimor-Leste-17 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1751/...fcaa0409_b.jpgTimor-Leste-18 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1734/...4458f52a_b.jpgTimor-Leste-19 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1741/...29e1b2cf_b.jpgTimor-Leste-20 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1737/...fedc59d3_b.jpgTimor-Leste-21 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1726/...768c4ba0_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1728/...3dcb7828_b.jpgTimor-Leste-24 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1742/...49f1ce69_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1737/...75b229e2_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1734/...7845e71b_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1751/...01787324_b.jpgTimor-Leste-30 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1726/...8f81fbec_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1724/...7ae3a226_b.jpgFrame-04-06-2018-21-11-01 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://youtu.be/qLLWbtvX3GQ |
Since it is only 430 we are already hot and sweaty we rode the 8 km out to the end of the road to the Jesus Christos on the point.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1748/...e6edc6c6_b.jpgScreen Shot 2018-05-30 at 15.16.13 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1721/...62baca0e_b.jpgFrame-04-06-2018-21-11-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1748/...0133715c_b.jpgTimor-Leste-32 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1752/...329221ee_b.jpgTimor-Leste-33 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1731/...3a044a06_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1756/...2241398e_b.jpgFILE4996 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1757/...0667ba00_b.jpgFILE5000 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1746/...c8b59fce_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1733/...87e6f713_b.jpgTimor-Leste-37 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
At the advise of the consul we want to get to the Jaco national park, which is on an island off the eastern tip of this island.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/902/4...25896c71_b.jpg Today rain is predicted, but it looks fine. The clouds are welcome shade for us. We left the hostel at 830 and at 30 degrees. We took the sea road along the coast that meets with the main road to the east. This road is half unpaved, but has some stunning views. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1730/...f675727e_z.jpgScreen Shot 2018-05-30 at 15.17.04 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1729/...1245690f_b.jpgFILE5004 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1746/...4ef83463_b.jpgFILE5005 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1756/...65d873c2_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1755/...aaaca774_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1756/...f1aa1e0d_b.jpgFILE5069 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
We had been told that the entire 150 km to Baucau is under construction and it was true. The first section has very short intermittent sections of pavement with firm gravel between. It is also along the sea at times. The next is long stretches of very rocky bumpy dirt road. Luckily there is little traffic since it is very dusty.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1751/...ca5860fb_b.jpgFILE5074 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1723/...7876ef42_b.jpgFILE5076 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1750/...c5fcb837_b.jpg |
The mountain section was a bit of a challenge with very poor and rough surface and often only 1 lane. Not too bad until you meet a bus or a truck. Then it was paved more often and at the sea again. We stopped in the first small village we can to and had some almost cold drinks.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1744/...f41f47b7_b.jpgScreen Shot 2018-05-30 at 15.14.23 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1725/...445bef00_b.jpgFILE5105 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1725/...6e37cfce_b.jpgFILE5109 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1728/...6e6c97f2_b.jpgFILE5114 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1738/...62e66f87_b.jpgFILE5121 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1729/...eb463a71_b.jpgFILE5129 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1740/...47b09c7a_b.jpgFILE5137 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1745/...21959b25_b.jpgFILE5140 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1760/...847d49c1_b.jpgFILE5149 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1739/...320423a5_b.jpgTimor-Leste-38 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1740/...583b3431_b.jpgTimor-Leste-39 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
The road is not too bad until the next village where it is closed and you are diverted onto the village beach road for several km.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1739/...47b09d67_b.jpgFILE5158 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1751/...d955fc9e_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1758/...792f2232_b.jpgFILE5171 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1746/...a7607d34_b.jpgFILE5173 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1721/...9788cb6c_b.jpgTimor-Leste-41 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
Just before Baucau the scenery changes again to agricultural with lots of rice fields and water buffalo. We rode along with the guy and the goat for quite a while. The drivers here are very courteous. The trucks and buses will pull over onto the dirt verge to let you pass on the 1 lane paved sections. There was one section where they had just covered the road with huge chunk of rock making for quite a rodeo ride. We did finally make it to Baucau at 1230 and had a pretty good lunch there.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1746/...929dc3f3_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1741/...bcc8c84b_b.jpgTimor-Leste-42 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1727/...b6a81c18_b.jpgFILE5191 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1833/...2ddc7739_b.jpgDSC03338 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1745/...cb8b4b3f_b.jpgFILE5203 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1727/...b6ee13d6_b.jpgTimor-Leste-40 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1745/...5fabc3a4_b.jpgTimor-Leste-43 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1757/...5ae84dfd_b.jpgTimor-Leste-44 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1824/...9726d47e_b.jpgIMG_2791 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
Leaving town the road was paved and the view panoramic. We even got up to 70 km/h for small stretches. There is the odd road defect to keep you alert.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1760/...fb53123b_b.jpgFILE5214 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1757/...5fcb9bd9_b.jpgFILE5221 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1760/...407d9cfd_b.jpgFILE5222 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr On the way you pass thru a number of small and mostly tidy villages. The road continues along the sea until Lautem where it veers inland. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/893/4...dd9a86f8_b.jpgScreen Shot 2018-05-30 at 15.13.37 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1730/...0d25a613_b.jpgFILE5226 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1724/...49c9c65b_b.jpgFILE5232 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1744/...f3f0f19e_b.jpgFILE5238 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1751/...b16f19d9_b.jpgFILE5251 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1745/...9ba93a43_b.jpgFILE5259 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
We even had a few sprinkles of rain, which were nice and cooling. We have also had cooler temperatures as we have been at higher elevation and it has been cloudy. About 3 km before Fuiloro there is a modern gas station in the middle of nowhere. The Bacua - Lospalos road turns off at Fuiloro and is paved, but very patchy. There are still fairly frequent small villages with lots of smiling kids waving.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1729/...77ffc783_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1742/...c18c1a4e_b.jpgFILE5276 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1741/...e896d909_b.jpgFILE5278 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1733/...c1380830_b.jpgFILE5283 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1732/...587f5be7_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1748/...5b0839ef_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1760/...777fbd6c_b.jpg At Mahera we stopped to read the map on the sign. The road is good for a while from a few km after Tatuala and it was not! https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1734/...ab23ce92_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1732/...9ce5cc11_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1760/...0599c210_b.jpgFILE5403 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
At Tutuala the “ road” hair pins right onto a rough dirt/gravel track and then into a road construction zone with initially a good surface and then to a very rough a 4WD track/for the last 3 km of the 8 km.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1733/...e38c5d7c_b.jpgScreen Shot 2018-05-30 at 15.09.57 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr There are very rough steep sections, rutted soft dirt and one 500 m section with deep thick sticky mud also in ruts followed by a muddy very steep descent. And that was the “good part". It gets worse from here and is very steep down hill, narrow, and very loose. No time to take the hands off the bars for photos! There was some praying and butt clenching, but no one came off (while I did get bucked up off my seat and my rear wheel was well off the ground, but managed to hang on in a very rocky steep decent)! WE even had to stop part way down on a flat spot just to catch a break. We all made it intact to the last km, which is a nice gravel lane way! https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1724/...c40a4b60_b.jpgFILE5420 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1820/...25350b9a_b.jpgDSC0E3353 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1731/...e1859479_b.jpgFILE5429 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
We finally arrived at Nino Konis Santana National Park at 530 pm. What you get when you arrive it a pristine beach and the national park. There is one place here with small cabanas. squat toilet, and a bucket shower. They do have power and OV has 3G with his provider! We immediately stripped to our undies and went in for a swim in the glorious warm water as the sun was setting.
They did prepare dinner for us that was just edible, but only 5 dollars for rice, veg, and fish (some sort of fatty mackerel like fish). Orvar just became a vegetarian. We opened all the windows and took down the mosquito net for max air flow (no bugs), but with the heat and the very loud waves crashing we were all up late. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1742/...25a32055_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1726/...46f45168_b.jpgTimor-Leste-50 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1730/...5547e690_b.jpgTimor-Leste-46 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1750/...1e5e958a_b.jpgTimor-Leste-51 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1726/...5bed4283_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1725/...09a2f5d2_b.jpgTimor-Leste-64 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1731/...0977f5d2_b.jpgTimor-Leste-47 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
We did wake at 3 am and needed a blanket as we were now freezing. I was up several times in the night to see if the predicted rain materialized. We were pretty worried about the 500 m of steep deep mud if it poured all night. The bike cover were totally dry in the morning. We decided to skip the offer of breakfast and ate a can of peaches from our ER rations and Orvar’s left over “Rose cream” cookies.
Setting out today we backtracked 1 km on the nice gravel track with the grass center and then hit the steep loose rises. The worst part are the large rock chunks. After 1 km of this we ran into a dump truck that was the source of said chunks. Once past him we rode another km of this to then hit the first of the mud sections. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1730/...74097ae5_b.jpgFrame-24-05-2018-19-39-57 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1727/...65713d67_b.jpgTimor-Leste-52 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1754/...3a8e9c5f_b.jpgFrame-24-05-2018-19-40-38 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1728/...5b63b729_b.jpgTimor-Leste-54 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1729/...f07675d5_b.jpgTimor-Leste-55 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1756/...fcba680c_b.jpgTimor-Leste-56 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1746/...11805ce9_b.jpgFrame-24-05-2018-19-40-44 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1723/...54313041_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1752/...c0098aa8_b.jpg |
At the first it is a steep gravel approach and then a long moderately steep wide rise of thick mud rutted by the trucks. Phew made it thru this… Next the long steep mud hill with the 100 meters of rutted muck at the top. Then we are home free.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1753/...733253a2_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1727/...c8049144_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1784/...b4106a45_b.jpgDSC03371 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1765/...8f2e8d3c_b.jpgDSC03375 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1758/...1521b2fa_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1761/...87575abe_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1753/...87cc3f2c_b.jpgTimor-Leste-65 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
The route now is good gravel to the village at Tutala and the hairpin turn towards the “main road”.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1729/...e510ca00_b.jpgFrame-24-05-2018-19-49-14 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1757/...f070ebe8_b.jpgFrame-24-05-2018-19-49-26 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1721/...52fe8469_b.jpgFrame-24-05-2018-19-49-50 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1743/...af3e7960_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1748/...324a09ca_b.jpgFrame-24-05-2018-19-52-33 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
Here the road is pretty good again and we stopped at the gas station just past Mahera for some snacks. We had not left until 945 and it is now 11 and we have gone 38 km. The road gets better and better though there are a lot of rough patches especially in the villages until we got to the turn off to the main road at Fuiloro.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1757/...0546ab03_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1735/...004cc55f_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1760/...9fbe842b_b.jpgFrame-24-05-2018-19-55-27 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/899/4...d1af6784_b.jpgDSC03390 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1734/...883a8f5e_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1740/...01da1dc6_b.jpgFrame-24-05-2018-19-56-49 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1749/...93f88ecf_b.jpgFrame-24-05-2018-19-57-33 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1729/...67f1771a_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1733/...3f4eace6_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1743/...c8f58f6e_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1733/...f8ec2eb7_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1745/...45b34d4d_b.jpgFrame-24-05-2018-20-01-08 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1728/...052831a1_b.jpgTimor-Leste-69 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1757/...314ed912_b.jpgTimor-Leste-70 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1759/...d0717fa7_b.jpgTimor-Leste-73 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1751/...4e00fd3e_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1740/...86d24bd5_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1723/...9a3e68e7_b.jpgTimor-Leste-76 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1755/...98e8352e_b.jpgTimor-Leste-77 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
We arrived to Baucau at 230 and went back to the same place (Victoria) we had the great lunch and they also have rooms. We did check out a few others, but they were not nice or very nice (70 USD per person). Here we had a good room hot water air con and breakfast for 40$ all 3 of us. It was a bit hot in the room and we had a few annoying mosquitoes and then the roosters started at 6am.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1723/...ffaac19c_b.jpgTimor-Leste-71 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1755/...ac6f2cee_b.jpgTimor-Leste-72 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/887/2...36f11e2d_b.jpgIMG_2794 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
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We set out at 930 and the road out of Baucau is a single lane and paved for the first few km.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1735/...62ba4cfd_b.jpgScreen Shot 2018-05-30 at 15.13.53 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1757/...81165609_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1758/...8f7534aa_b.jpgTimor-Leste-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1747/...98da119e_b.jpgTimor-Leste-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1725/...8e789eb4_b.jpgTimor-Leste-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1751/...b7dbe5a0_b.jpgTimor-Leste-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1737/...ec430cf2_b.jpgTimor-Leste-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
The construction zone of the next 120 km then starts. This varies from dirt sections to gravel. The section with the big rock chunks has now been grated and easy to ride over. The road is rough, but seems better than the way out. We stopped for gas in Manatuto where they have a new station.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1726/...f2449686_b.jpgFrame-25-05-2018-16-42-07 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1755/...8ac45df6_b.jpgFrame-25-05-2018-16-42-18 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1735/...bb0f2bf1_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1733/...c037ded9_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1732/...e5e53a08_b.jpgTimor-Leste-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1723/...436c87b8_b.jpgTimor-Leste-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1751/...ede92cf0_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1732/...130f3794_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1737/...06602c35_b.jpg |
The mountain section today was better as there was less traffic. It was only the occasional NGO “do gooders” driving their white Land Rovers like Mario Andreti that was an issue on the tight corners.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1739/...6e7d25ed_b.jpgFrame-25-05-2018-16-51-23 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1739/...dc2a6507_b.jpgFrame-25-05-2018-16-51-38 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1740/...893ae92b_b.jpgFrame-25-05-2018-16-55-04 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1738/...c84f012f_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1745/...9d825dd2_b.jpgFrame-25-05-2018-16-58-28 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1737/...ac4e48a3_b.jpgFrame-25-05-2018-17-00-19 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1754/...5c5f4d7b_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1740/...4d01130b_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1722/...253c1f39_b.jpgFrame-25-05-2018-17-04-08 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1758/...f6ec7299_b.jpgTimor-Leste-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
On the way into Dili we found a hardware “store” in order to replace the 4 bolts that we lost on the way to the end of the island…now that is a rough road. Dan lost both bolts from his headlights and Sara 2 bolts from the windscreen. I will say the YSS suspensions have performed very well during this beating.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1735/...12d8d6a2_b.jpgFrame-25-05-2018-17-07-35 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1733/...705d1160_b.jpgFrame-25-05-2018-17-08-02 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1790/...8f3e739d_b.jpgIMG_2812 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr It was 35 degrees and very humid when we got into the city and we were all too baked to keep going today. It is 1 pm and we stopped into OV’s hostel where they only had 1 bed and so we found a place near by. Then it was get the clothes to the laundry before it closes today! We had dinner at the hostel with OV as they have a communal dinner served family style for 5$. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1756/...6cb896a1_b.jpgTimor-Leste-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
Our place had a fairly decent breakfast and we headed out at 830 to the laundromat and it was already 30 degrees! There was not a cloud in the sky either for protection. We picked up the Swede and then headed to the mountains.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/901/4...33d124a6_z.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1735/...eeee5aea_b.jpg The road is decent for about 5 km and corkscrews up. It then deteriorates but other than bumpy it is not too bad. There are a ton of groups of kids out on scooters this Saturday and lots have Timor Leste flags flying. The trucks and buses are nice and pull over on this 1 lane road for us to pass. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1760/...49e42d62_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1745/...b1cbef2c_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1741/...52e2c690_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1744/...7851969e_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1745/...6af2d9da_b.jpgTimor-Leste-13 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
When you get 15 km fro Aileu suddenly the road is perfect new pavement with line markings.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1746/...35db88a6_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1728/...0a7db71e_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1726/...6d6a81d1_b.jpgFILE5599 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1752/...7f621d28_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1758/...51e96176_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1730/...acce4d8d_b.jpgTimor-Leste-14 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
We stopped here in Aileu for a cold drink and to chat to some of the friendly locals. We had fun especially with the lady who ran the shop we parked infant of who was all smiles with her red stained betlenut teeth! The market across the road was crowded with weekend shoppers and the people watching was fantastic. The bikes again draw a lot of attention because of their size. It is amusing to see peoples heads all turn when Dan rides past them. We met quite a few locals with very good English as well.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1729/...a755c93c_b.jpgTimor-Leste-18 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1751/...8f7e460c_b.jpgTimor-Leste-24 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1723/...ceb65200_b.jpgTimor-Leste-19 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1737/...8d31d456_b.jpgTimor-Leste-20 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1759/...cebe8381_b.jpgTimor-Leste-21 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1742/...43d6b3f9_b.jpgTimor-Leste-22 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1727/...10e37bda_b.jpgTimor-Leste-23 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
From here is is just another 25 km of twisty road to Maubisse where we plan to stay tonight. It is a pleasant 25 degrees here as well.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1733/...96bd674e_z.jpgScreen Shot 2018-05-30 at 15.18.22 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr The good road continues until about 3 km from the town where it is under construction. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1730/...eaf0e76d_b.jpgTimor-Leste-16 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1751/...0fbac5a6_b.jpgTimor-Leste-17 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1755/...6e229b5f_b.jpgFILE5618 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr We headed first to the Posada Maubisse up on the hill, but they were fully booked and was their guest house in the town. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1806/...8d9db873_b.jpgTimor-Leste-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1784/...5b26d282_b.jpgTimor-Leste-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1803/...117d80fc_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1831/...63758d9b_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1752/...1d7296b2_b.jpgFILE5626 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
Back at “the “ roundabout there is the guesthouse and restaurant Sara and so f course we went there! A very nice family runs it and the food is very good. A sprite, chicken, rice and soup was 3.50$!
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1752/...c430b036_b.jpgFILE5629 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/892/4...d5cffb32_b.jpgTimor-Leste by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr Dan and OV went out for an afternoon ride and saw some spectacular views. They even came across a wedding celebration. Dan gave rides to 3 guys including one carrying a sac of rice down and grotty dirt road and a 14 your old the 7 km back to the village at 530 pm. The road construction extends past the town 3 km and so there is a constant stream of trucks from 630 am until its dark at 7. They are making amazing progress and you can tell even in the few hours that the guys went and returned. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1837/...ae6fc66d_b.jpgTimor-Leste-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/896/2...ab5ae7ec_b.jpgTimor-Leste-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1779/...ab41c66a_b.jpgTimor-Leste-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1769/...4aef6cd2_b.jpgTimor-Leste-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/900/4...69fccf7e_b.jpgTimor-Leste-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1828/...a564db73_b.jpgTimor-Leste-13 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1791/...7d24dc36_b.jpgTimor-Leste-14 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1817/...bfca2575_b.jpgTimor-Leste-17 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1831/...106474f1_b.jpgTimor-Leste-15 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
In the morning we were up with the trucks at 630, but we had asked for breakfast at 830. It is Sunday and we walked into the village , which was packed with vendors. The street was mobbed, there are trucks trying to get both ways and animals all over. A bit of mayhem. Lots of great photo op!
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1788/...d71f4036_b.jpgTimor-Leste-22 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/887/4...f345fc5a_b.jpgTimor-Leste-23 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1805/...9ec1a381_b.jpgTimor-Leste-24 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1819/...0469dcd1_b.jpgTimor-Leste-25 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1833/...2c295e44_b.jpgTimor-Leste-26 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1767/...572c9deb_b.jpgTimor-Leste-27 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1775/...e5a7266b_b.jpgTimor-Leste-29 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1803/...5f76b152_b.jpgTimor-Leste-18 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
We planned a loop of 168 km today from Maubisse to the coast and then west to the other main road for the trip back. We had been told it was all paved and good road (ha ha).
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1751/...96b5c475_b.jpgScreen Shot 2018-05-30 at 15.20.23 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1765/...f9b848a9_b.jpgTimor-Leste-21 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1803/...44db6dee_b.jpgTimor-Leste-34 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1788/...97b76fd5_b.jpgTimor-Leste-20 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1829/...54b72775_b.jpgTimor-Leste-28 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
Setting out from town at 9 there is the 3 km of road work with some muddy sections and then you hit perfect new road for the next 55 km.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/885/2...ea1f266d_z.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1732/...d397d20a_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1807/...38c7338c_b.jpgTimor-Leste-32 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1796/...4bdb6ec0_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1751/...de58b6e1_b.jpgFILE5663 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1827/...93c9149a_b.jpgTimor-Leste-36 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1753/...e12156c1_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1756/...7de5f011_b.jpg FILE5704 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1760/...e4ed5fd0_b.jpgFILE5710 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/880/2...f6a947d5_b.jpgTimor-Leste-19 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
There was one small village on the way with for some reason a road in pretty bad condition for a few km.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1744/...9b4e037d_b.jpgFILE5713 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1822/...dbfafaf7_b.jpgTimor-Leste-40 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1791/...69d5fe85_b.jpgTimor-Leste-41 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1825/...ebdbbd29_b.jpgTimor-Leste-43 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1734/...a610f33d_b.jpgFILE5717 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1755/...f8024b6f_b.jpgFILE5724 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
We stopped on the side of the road for a swim in the crystal clear water. We were taking photos at a view point and a car pulled up with the Indonesian Consul to Timor and his entourage .
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1725/...dba86655_z.jpgScreen Shot 2018-05-30 at 15.20.56 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1796/...c742121d_b.jpgTimor-Leste-49 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1755/...d34af61f_b.jpgFILE5744 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1727/...bfdbabba_b.jpgFILE5754 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1726/...e50935cb_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1766/...7c9a63e6_b.jpgTimor-Leste-44 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1790/...6d64f472_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1831/...07d0b961_b.jpgTimor-Leste-30 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1762/...ed82d1a2_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1835/...88178394_b.jpgTimor-Leste-38 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1824/...aa748b69_b.jpgTimor-Leste-39 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/892/4...61ba1f6f_b.jpgIMG_2817 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1800/...621f3bce_b.jpg |
The town of Same is 43 km away and we got some fuel here.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1729/...5b50e0c8_b.jpgFILE5782 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1782/...21fdee73_b.jpg Arriving to the cut off we decided to go the 13 km to the coast. The road deteriorates from here, but it was no challenge. We passed thru another very clean and orderly Timorese village with lots of traditional houses. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1741/...15eab09cb9.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1728/...80ef7c47_b.jpgFILE5794 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1834/...a38543f2_b.jpgTimor-Leste-52 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1760/...d6e4439e_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1788/...95ec2b82_b.jpgTimor-Leste-55 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/892/4...c3255a9e_b.jpgTimor-Leste-59 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1771/...75111eff_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1743/...4c9cd426_b.jpgFILE5826 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
At the beach there is a warning sign for alligators! The beach is grey course sand and the water warm, but we did not swim. There was a very small “restaurant” in a shack near by and we had rice and delicious grilled small fish.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1771/...743bb002_b.jpgTimor-Leste-50 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1792/...b7faecb6_b.jpgTimor-Leste-51 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1791/...0512a642_b.jpgTimor-Leste-58 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1783/...f64be66c_b.jpgTimor-Leste-57 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
We left here at 130 and backtrack to the Y in the road. Here we are headed 25 km to Cassa and the road is in terrible condition where it was paved.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1740/...2f759bce_b.jpgScreen Shot 2018-05-30 at 15.22.22 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1811/...84d1dc5e_b.jpgTimor-Leste-64 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1794/...259ac416_b.jpgTimor-Leste-66 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1764/...a0dc3a20_b.jpgTimor-Leste-68 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr It was paved once long ago. The worst is the sharp edges of the remaining pavement. There are some washed out area and some mud of course. The road heads west and up into the mountains and from the top there is a panoramic view. The down slope was steep loose gravel, but ended at perfect pavement. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1757/...ddcb97a3_b.jpgFILE5833 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1757/...7cfd0a37_b.jpgFILE5843 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1749/...46134850_b.jpgFILE5856 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1746/...ff3ece7a_b.jpgFILE5858 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1745/...c87d5950_b.jpgFILE5859 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1737/...54667b58_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1740/...7768e86f_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1738/...3f3cc534_b.jpgFILE5880 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1723/...5d18929f_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1739/...bd0a7077_b.jpgFILE5897 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
Once we hit the main road again it was paved and smooth. This lasted a few km and then the road was intermittently paved and destroyed. We finally had some views of Timor's highest peak Mt. Rameleu. About 15 km from the main road we hit road construction again for 5 km and it was quite muddy especially in one section where we had to wait 15 min for a truck to be loaded with dirt. From here the road bed was prepared and smooth for the last 12 km to the other Y in the road home. Then we backtracked to Maubisse to arrive at 530. We were all tired an hungry.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/878/2...6922cac9_z.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1750/...37360100_b.jpgFILE5907 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1749/...90632f19_b.jpgFILE5914 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1735/...34670a04_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1756/...4244f3a3_b.jpgFILE5958 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1758/...c1d5a0cb_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1775/...30bdcab6_b.jpgTimor-Leste-62 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1794/...870b5e96_b.jpgTimor-Leste-63 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/891/4...093873e2_b.jpgTimor-Leste-65 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1735/...e37a14ae_b.jpgFILE5971 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1759/...fcda65c6_b.jpgFILE5984 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1751/...3f655928_b.jpgFILE5996 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1743/...afeac18d_b.jpgFILE6012 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1747/...d1215c9f_b.jpgFILE6024 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1725/...21d66514_b.jpgFILE6026 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1757/...fe437d8b_b.jpgFILE6030 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/891/4...a77a74c0_b.jpgTimor-Leste-67 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1744/...3ac9b452_b.jpgFILE6034 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1722/...547fd332_b.jpgFILE6040 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
We were up with the roosters again today, had breakfast, and were on the road by 9. We have not decided where we are headed except to get near the Indonesian border.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1741/...2dbca11b_b.jpgScreen Shot 2018-05-30 at 15.25.22 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr We had 2 km of muddy construction to get out of town and then 32 km of good curvy road to back track to just past Aileu. There is a circle route from here to the coast thru the coffee region towards Gleno instead of going back to Dili. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/894/4...ba20b945_z.jpgScreen Shot 2018-05-30 at 15.23.59 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr The turn off is about 6.5 km past Aileu. The road is good for about 1 km and then disintegrates. I had put my memory card in the camera, but did not click it in perfectly and unfortunately I don't have pics of the more challenging parts! https://farm1.staticflickr.com/893/4...89f1d419_b.jpgScreen Shot 2018-05-30 at 15.25.53 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr The first 4 km are gravel with some old pavement, but the next 10 are deeply rutted dried mud, steep rocky section, and very dusty. This was quite challenging on Lulu who is very low and the bash plate hits a lot of things and the panniers in the deep ruts can be a challenge. It is hard to believe but we did meet some small trucks on the route. Then suddenly 5 km from the main road there is a beautiful paved 1 lane road. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1806/...b4ff590e_b.jpgTimor-Leste-72 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1808/...ed33bebe_b.jpgTimor-Leste-69 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1768/...7f5ff530_b.jpg https://farm1.staticflickr.com/895/2...80f1ccdd_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1817/...1421eaf3_b.jpgTimor-Leste-73 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
Just north of here on the way to the coast we stopped for a brake at a fruit stand and then had an amazing curvy paved road down.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/901/4...c0f709f3_z.jpgScreen Shot 2018-05-30 at 15.26.28 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1803/...cbc08e39_b.jpgTimor-Leste-74 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1795/...745ece56_b.jpgTimor-Leste-75 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/883/4...141c377e_b.jpgTimor-Leste-76 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr We had some not great gas yesterday in Same and at the coast found some premium to top up. Here we had 99 km to go to the Indonesian border town of Batugade. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1727/...194a78e4_b.jpgScreen Shot 2018-05-30 at 15.27.04 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr The road is newly paved in section, but others are washed away or falling apart. There are a few “tourist” sights, but the one prison ruins we stoped at was boarded up. The views are stunning along the coast and often the waves crash on the rocks right beside the road. We arrived to Batugade and as we had seen nowhere to eat all day and lunch was bananas, cookies, and chips! The desperation meal of the adventure rider! https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1773/...7ba9b8cc_b.jpgTimor-Leste-77 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1832/...4fddaf66_b.jpgTimor-Leste-78 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1800/...fcbb2768_b.jpgTimor-Leste-85 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1802/...1b2d5716_b.jpgTimor-Leste-83 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
Here we decided to ride the 14 km up to Balibo where there is supposed t be a hotel in an old fort.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/886/2...3063a41e_b.jpgScreen Shot 2018-05-30 at 15.27.40 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr The road is good for the first 8 km and then is destroyed. The town is not much to speak of and neither is the fort. The hotel here is very expensive (95USD) for nothing special and she then offered us 120 for 2 rooms, but they do not even take in the spectacular view. There is a guest house in the grocery store in town, but no way! You walked thru the ramshackle store and then the even worse store room that smelled of rotten meat, thru the garage where for some reason a truck was running with the doors closed, up a rickety rusted spiral staircase past the owners outdoor living quarters to the rooms (24 USD no fan). The rooms were not that bad it was all the rest. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1821/...f92a01bf_b.jpgTimor-Leste-70 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1777/...3ef44d28_b.jpgTimor-Leste-71 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr It is 330 and we decided to make for the border, which is !18 km away. This means a back track the way we came and then 4 km past the town. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1754/...8e546bdf_b.jpg |
Well that is it for Timor Leste!!
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1741/...f1798c96_b.jpgScreen Shot 2018-05-30 at 15.39.45 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr When you pull up to the Timor Leste border area there is to the left before the actual border a covered area with 2 desks. Both have police sitting at them, but one desk has a crumples paper sign that says Timor Leste to Indonesia and the other the opposite. Here the officer checks your passport and carnet and sends you on to the real border where you park under the cover. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1789/...0e1d7b8c_b.jpg Here you fill in an immigration card (they have them in English). You then walk 30 m across to the customs officer. She was very nice and stamped the 3 carnet asap. You then walk back 15 m to the immigration to get your exit stamp and hand in the immigration card. We were all done here before 430. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1840/...cf3484c9_b.jpgTimor-Leste-87 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
You then drive across the bridge to the massive elaborate Indonesian border. Here you pass the first police check and then take the second left to customs (there are no signs for directions and no one directing you and so we went around the round about and straight to the border complex. Here the very nice guard said we had to go back to customs first).
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/933/4...fe67fddc_b.jpgIndonesia by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr There you park and go into the customs office. They also hand you a Customs declaration card in English. We had to wait a while for the head man to return to stamp the carnets. By then it was 450 and the border closes at 5! Now instead of just going forward you have to turn left down a dirt alley and then back track to the other border buildings. Here we parked again and rushed into the office with our passports. You have to fill in an immigration card and then you go to the officer at the border port at the left. Here they were a bit confused as we had visas, but they called in the boss who spoke English and he told them just to process the entries. He advised us on a choice of hotels and gave us his cell number in case we had any issues. The last step it to go to customs declaration and hand in the card. Here they wanted us to put out riding jackets thru the X-ray and “your luggage”. We just grabbed the seat dry bags and came back in. No one told the poor X-ray guy (who had shut down the computer and the X-ray machine and was already walking out the door) and he had to restart the machines to scan the last 2 bags. We where out of there by 520 and into Indonesia. We were treated to perfectly paved road and until the city of Atambua no traffic. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/901/4...648bc8ca_z.jpgScreen Shot 2018-05-30 at 15.29.21 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr They do not follow the rules of the road like in Timor Leste, half are not wearing helmets, all drive like mad men, and in the city in under 20 min nearly all of us could have had an accident if we were not being aggressively defensive. The worst is the scooters on your right who come up beside you and then want to turn left right infant of you. We made it alive, starved and tired to the hotel. 40 $ Canadian for a very nice huge room with bath and air con. We pigged out in the restaurant and it was 11$ for 3 of us! Nice not to pay the Dili price for things that have been so inflated by the UN and other groups. We also had a walk about the morning market in search of SIM cards. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1797/...0efd656f_b.jpgIndonesia-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1771/...3a96f0fe_b.jpgIndonesia-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1817/...aaf12e8e_b.jpgIndonesia-19 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
We were woken at 430 am by loud talking and people walking down the hotel hallway. Then 15 min later the bellow of the call to prayer. We have not heard this for a long time. The Muslim population here is not visibly very large, but the entire city is woken at 5 am anyway.
We have been unable to get the Indonesia maps on open street to load or function and so we are running of of Google and maps.me for an exit route from the city. We do have some map overlapping from the Malaysia tile for the Kupang area. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/901/4...dd0be93d_b.jpgScreen Shot 2018-05-30 at 15.30.06 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr We set out just before 9 with the plan to just get as far at So’e in 167 km since we do not know what to expect from the road and traffic and can not predict the travel time. The road smooth as silk and very curvy. There is not much traffic, but it was still very slow going and we made the city after 4 hours. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1777/...a1c66b9e_b.jpgIndonesia-17 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1835/...d54fe30f_b.jpgIndonesia-18 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1758/...0ea444d9_b.jpgFILE6045 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1734/...2b478c30_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1749/...20ced247_b.jpgFILE6078 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
We stopped in So’e and finally after a lot of searching found a restaurant. This is a bit of a challenge here as most eating places just have precooked food that they serve up. The cold fish and chicken sitting our with the flies is less than appealing. We managed to find a spot with a hot fire grill and had some amazing half chicken meals and a coke for 3.50 each.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/851/4...810fac99_b.jpgIndonesia-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/862/2...1dc19520_b.jpgIndonesia-10 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr It will be a long, tiring, and hot day, but we decided to go for Kupang so we can stay 2 nights in the same spot. We are headed to the hotel recommended by the riders we met in Darwin. With a good location, underground parking, and a value price. The day went well with major curves and several mountain crossings. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1745/...1be8e5f9_b.jpgFILE6084 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1756/...b245b791_b.jpgFILE6093 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr There was almost no problems until the last 35 km with the heavy truck traffic and the ADV moron (first rider we have seen) on a V Strom who was passing on a blind corner and was head on in Dan’s lane. The scooter riders have not been as bad as expected either, they are pretty chill and school like fish. They obey the signal lights and most use their turn signals. They are much better than in Atambua. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1776/...f207f76e_b.jpgIndonesia-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1779/...48fe874b_b.jpgIndonesia-13 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr We arrived very hot and very tired and happy to find the hotel nicer than expected. We did a bit of a walk around and then ended up in the hotel for dinner. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/928/2...2f1c08e5_b.jpgIndonesia-11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1793/...c2f497f8_b.jpgIndonesia-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr We were please to see a real breakfast buffet with Asian and Western choices. They even had pancakes! Today is errand day. 1. Get new SIM cards this is 1 month 17 GB for under 10$. And stickers! https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1788/...d709eea0_b.jpgIMG_2837 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr 2. Get a GRAB taxi the 11 km to the port to confirm the ferry will go to Larantuka on Flores tomorrow and at what time (web says 1300, concierge called the office they say 11, guy at the port say 12??) We we be there at 830 and get the tickets (265,000 R for 1 bike and rider or about 25$). The ferry takes 13 hours and usually leaves at 1300 and arrives at 0200! “quote” https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1840/...cc2acea8_b.jpgIMG_2832 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr 3. Get to the car wash….Amazing wash job, air hose dry, and plastics polish. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/862/4...678293be_b.jpgIndonesia-14 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1791/...74f7baba_b.jpgIndonesia-15 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/936/2...ece3709a_b.jpgIndonesia-16 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1796/...b82745cc_b.jpgIMG_2836 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr For dinner we had found a pork BBq place on line and a Carefour! We set off the 1.3 km to the store hoping to get some great snacks for the ferry, but when we got there it was mostly clothing and some fruit and NOT a real Carefour supermarket. From here it is another 1.5 km to Aroma! We had a pretty good all meat meal! Luckily there was a grocery next door, but really all they had was water and cookies that would be suitable. We got a GRAB home for 10,000R =1$. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1812/...4ed47ddb_b.jpgIndonesia-20 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
We had our breakfast and were on the road at 8 for the 11 km ride over to the ferry dock.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1734/...48203ef8_b.jpgFILE6114 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr We arrived at 830 am and were directed to the right to a covered lane filled with bikes. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1730/...81b8e279_b.jpgFILE6119 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1742/...87d5886d_b.jpgFILE6131 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/930/4...490ee0fe_b.jpgIndonesia-21 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr There were 2 other ferries going this morning. We were told the Larantuka tickets go on sale at 11! Well that is good news that it is actually going. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1749/...932429df_b.jpgScreen Shot 2018-05-30 at 15.31.53 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr We had fun during the wait chatting to the other riders. Promptly at 11 the ticket man called to Daniel and told him to come buy his tickets. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/937/2...e1bfa032_b.jpgIndonesia-22 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1835/...b72ab080_b.jpgIndonesia-27 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1811/...c38cfc6e_b.jpgIndonesia-25 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1815/...41879197_b.jpgIndonesia-26 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr At 1130 we were told to board. This meant ride thru the gate to the next gate where they check your ticket and your destination. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/860/2...9afea8a4_b.jpgIndonesia-24 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1722/...00bf54ff_b.jpgFILE6139 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1725/...14c5dd6c_b.jpgFILE6146 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
You ride up the metal gangway to the “fully loaded” boat. They had to push Dan back as there was no room to the left and he was sent right.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1730/...7022f888_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1756/...80091d24_b.jpgFILE6158 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr The space between the big trucks and the cargo on the deck was just wide enough to get thru. Dan and I got a spot with the stairway nearby so there was a bit of room. Orvar was at the back parked sideways behind a truck. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1745/...e63fc3b8_b.jpgFILE6160 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1722/...591a243f_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1756/...e5a0c569_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1730/...3fbd30e7_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1760/...4b95ea57_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1734/...93d4c712_b.jpgFILE6185 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1738/...45def3dd_b.jpgFILE6188 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1792/...2b0286c3_b.jpgIndonesia-23 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
The trucks are all lashed down. We had our tie downs and set to work fixing the bikes to the 1 deck point we had for the 2 bikes. An unorthodox set up, but it worked and passed inspection of the crew who came to check. Sara had go up on deck to try and get some seats as dozens of people had loaded after us. I did find a table and seats on the top deck, which is open to the air, but not comfortable and would be cold after dark. The boat left at 1220. The deck crew said we could climb the ladder beside the bikes to a small utility deck. This was very clean and quiet and we set up our chairs. We could lie down for a nap on a huge coil of rope.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1799/...1f5cd277_b.jpgIMG_2838 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1829/...f9cd3a65_b.jpgIMG_2840 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1812/...2e73b851_b.jpg https://farm1.staticflickr.com/856/4...f918ed4a_b.jpgIndonesia-28 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr The only issue was at dinner time the people throwing garbage and half drunk coffee off the upper decks flew in at us. So we moved down as it was cold anyway to the car deck itself. We had purchased some ramen noodles for dinner to add to our fruit and cookies. Sara managed to sleep most of the way! https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1816/...ea0cf0b7_b.jpgIMG_3466 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/916/4...05c85b35_b.jpgFlores by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
We made good time and actually docked about 2330 an hour early. They let the foot passengers off with the bikes so it was a bit of mayhem. We got stuck behind some dork not at his bike, but the crew was great and got one of the trucks moving so we could get past. We met the Swede just a few minutes later and then rode east towards the town.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1761/...74db9f44_b.jpgFlores-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1826/...1db47fb8_b.jpgFlores-13 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr We had looked up a few places online and stopped at the first. It was clean and with partially working aircon, but cold water. We did not expect much after midnight, but this place was not too bad for 300,000R. They also had secure parking under the hotel. We actually gad a pretty good night sleep, except the call at 430 am. We were also surprised the rate included breakfast! https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1810/...1ac6ec7e_b.jpgFlores-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1767/...d527dcfd_b.jpgFlores-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
The plan is to ride the supposedly wildly curved roads to the western end of the island for the diving, snorkelling, and the dragons! How long could 665 km take anyway.....4 days!
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1733/...a8114cd8_b.jpgScreen Shot 2018-06-04 at 18.39.43 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr We set out quite late at 930 for the ride 133 km to Maumere. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1744/...daf900fd_b.jpgScreen Shot 2018-06-04 at 18.40.11 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1754/...91efb008_b.jpgFILE6193 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1802/...73f6138b_b.jpgFlores-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1751/...70ab678d_b.jpgFILE6194 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1757/...2ea9e708_b.jpgFILE6202 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1823/...e0ae3afd_b.jpgFlores-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1721/...28011f62_b.jpgFILE6231 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1768/...628845f0_b.jpgFlores-7 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
The road is pretty curvy and hilly, but there is very little traffic. The surface is perfectly smooth.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1744/...5cfe771e_b.jpgScreen Shot 2018-06-04 at 18.40.35 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1742/...89f9bc21_b.jpgFILE6244 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1744/...624d7659_b.jpgFILE6250 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1747/...7f0b3135_b.jpgFILE6253 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1829/...e9b89e82_b.jpgFlores-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1725/...78b90e4d_b.jpgFILE6261 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/916/2...303bd330_b.jpgFlores-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1739/...a0174e88_b.jpgFILE6270 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/833/2...b58ba0fb_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1767/...cbe2cd1c_b.jpgFlores-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
It was very hot and humid by the time we reached the town and we stopped for a huge fish lunch. This was probably a mistake in the heat as we were all now drowsy. Notice the guy holding up the fallen power line with a stick!
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1743/...2ae1b19c_b.jpgFILE6288 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1730/...dac0ca1f_b.jpgFILE6307 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/883/4...ffa1aec3_b.jpgIMG_2845 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1812/...9676ef62_b.jpgIMG_2849 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr We had planned a short day anyway and backtracked 10 km to a “resort” on the beach with very nice cabins. We arrived at 130 VERY hot and had to rest in the air con and fan after a cold shower. We surfaced after 430 when it cooled off and went for a swim. The ocean was warmer than the pool and that was warm. The sun set was truly spectacular. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1755/...1fc3962b_b.jpgFILE6322 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
We decided to start out earlier today and were on the road by 830. We have 265 km today and google says 7 hours.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1732/...405b62b9_b.jpgScreen Shot 2018-06-04 at 18.41.26 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr The road surface is very good, but it is just that curvy. You head south west and end up across the island again at about the half way point in Ende. It was basically 7 hours of curves and only a brief stop for lunch in Ende. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1723/...bd813eb0_b.jpgScreen Shot 2018-06-04 at 18.41.52 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1734/...56af7477_b.jpgFILE6334 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1752/...e87901ab_b.jpgFILE6346 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1727/...3bc3e23d_b.jpgFILE6355 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1750/...669f361e_b.jpgFILE6362 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1754/...7e53c10f_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1723/...ab3dcda0_b.jpgFILE6381 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1754/...a56e1235_b.jpgFILE6385 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1739/...49d1df2a_b.jpgFILE6399 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1733/...bc1ddbb0_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1763/...1f381ec0_b.jpgFlores-14 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1760/...ccce51cc_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1729/...7463d0dd_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1749/...7021be51_b.jpgFILE6441 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1754/...bc373cde_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1744/...8f9bc665_b.jpgFILE6458 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1746/...631fcc2a_b.jpgFILE6461 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1741/...04c9337b_b.jpgFILE6468 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
The traffic is very little an it is almost all scooters. From End you cruise along the ocean before heading up into the much cooler hills.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1760/...93416b8d_b.jpgScreen Shot 2018-06-04 at 18.42.34 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1781/...0c616b19_b.jpgFlores-16 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1748/...68d6650c_b.jpgFILE6506 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1722/...99c4af17_b.jpgFILE6508 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1801/...065e5532_b.jpgFlores-24 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1752/...35157c5a_b.jpgFILE6518 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1733/...896a7ed1_b.jpgFILE6527 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1757/...a0f1a0e3_b.jpgFILE6538 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1732/...01aa57ff_b.jpgFILE6582 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1785/...e0f2ee80_b.jpgFlores-15 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1807/...060cd2da_b.jpgFlores-17 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1829/...1f565075_b.jpgFlores-18 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/843/4...0fbecb55_b.jpgFlores-19 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
We stopped in the town of Bajawa, which has a number of hotels and restaurants. This is a tourist destination for the volcano and the colored lakes near by. We checked into the Edelweiss 2 guest house, which was very clean and run by a very nice family. We have hiked up enough volcanoes for one lifetime so we will skip the 4 am wake up for that.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/925/4...bb51bf72_b.jpgFlores-25 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr We had a walk about town and to the large mosque with a catholic church directly across the street. On the way back this nice lady Selena called out to us “where are you from?” from her small kiosk shop. We had a nice chat with her and the family that live on that corner. She also recommended a place for dinner. You can tell this town has tourists because of the number of hotels and real restaurants. We went to her suggestion and had a very good meal with a bunch of locals. Our hotel was very quiet and we did not hear the call or the roosters. But it is just next to what looks like a high security prison and they Bugled the call to the post at sunset and sunrise. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1805/...8f5b2194_b.jpgFlores-20 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1764/...d5d0f790_b.jpgFlores-21 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1825/...a4b15702_b.jpgFlores-22 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1765/...5b9e23e1_b.jpgFlores-23 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://youtu.be/AqDsJ6OKP5Q |
We planned to set off at 0830 for Laban Bajo in 266 km. This is supposed to take over 7 hours on Google and the first section of road looks like a cork screw on google maps.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1724/...49790b9c_b.jpgScreen Shot 2018-06-04 at 20.48.20 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr We had heard from some other guests about the Bene traditional village just 15 km away and decided to make the trip, which is about 30 min. The road is up into the hills past the volcano and though 1 lane is paved! https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1734/...ea1aaac4_b.jpgScreen Shot 2018-06-04 at 18.44.21 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1731/...81f5cbb1_b.jpgFILE6589 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1739/...62561f30_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1737/...d984418e_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1734/...7c9c0531_b.jpgFILE6636 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1737/...ace63aa2_b.jpgFILE6643 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
The “village” is a tourist reenactment and not a real village, but showcases the local houses and way of life from times past.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1781/...71a1d37a_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1805/...19bf688f_b.jpgFlores-38 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1737/...54512d29_b.jpgFILE6665 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/917/2...091a46fd_b.jpgFlores-39 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1781/...21259ebe_b.jpgFlores-40 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/913/4...e2dbd1ce_b.jpgFlores-41 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1827/...2931a46d_b.jpgFlores-26 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1762/...60dc7e87_b.jpgFlores-27 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1810/...f729ffe0_b.jpgFlores-28 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/844/4...60490507_b.jpgFlores-29 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/918/4...6a38c3ac_b.jpgFlores-30 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1810/...67a4684f_b.jpgFlores-31 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1829/...95f18a3d_b.jpgFlores-32 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/844/2...92e17763_b.jpgFlores-33 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1724/...5c3e3a16_b.jpgFILE6671 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1735/...127b3c15_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1828/...71c6663c_b.jpgFlores-42 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/841/4...ca695390_b.jpgFlores-34 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
By the time we got back the main road it was 0930 and we set off west and north.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1772/...efd53f65_b.jpgScreen Shot 2018-06-16 at 21.43.24 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1749/...82742670_b.jpgFILE6701 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr The road is mostly well surfaced and there is literally almost no other vehicles outside the towns. It is CURVY! We had a few sprinkles intermittently. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1786/...f0edd8d6_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1743/...f3ceabb0_b.jpgFILE6716 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1737/...9ed5e6a5_b.jpgFILE6721 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1786/...efdfef48_b.jpgFlores-35 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1748/...81c38463_b.jpgFILE6722 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1755/...29a81321_b.jpgFILE6724 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1723/...69584777_b.jpgFILE6736 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1759/...2393ac51_b.jpgFILE6739 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1755/...4becf72c_b.jpgFILE6741 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
Stopping in Kampoeng Mborong the only thing we could find to eat was the usual cookies and chips!
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1772/...efd53f65_b.jpgScreen Shot 2018-06-16 at 21.43.24 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1721/...3725788d_b.jpgFILE6746 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1739/...9540d4af_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1726/...602a6e2a_b.jpgFILE6792 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr We were very hot and very tired by 130 when we got to Ruteng and decided to stay here after 159 km since there is no reason to push on the 132 km (3 hours plus) to Lauban Bajo today. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1769/...e11eceea_b.jpg We had had a recommendation from friend to stay in the convent here, but they we’re unfortunately fully booked. We checked out a few home stays (NO) and finally settled on the MJR Ticketing Guest house. This is run by a nice Japanese family. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1766/...84fb4654_b.jpgFlores-43 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/844/4...18e4fcd0_b.jpgFlores-45 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/839/4...397a4cb0_b.jpgFlores-46 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
Today we will make it the final 132 km and we set out just after 0830.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1756/...4d8b602e_b.jpgScreen Shot 2018-06-04 at 18.48.57 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr There is a fair amount of traffic leaving town, but most of it is scooters. There is much more agriculture here and though the roads are windy it is more sweeping curves. The road condition is not as pristine either. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1745/...6ae30e4e_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1723/...8600ffd8_b.jpgFILE6868 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1769/...fab19aa1_b.jpgFlores-47 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1781/...5e0478d8_b.jpgFlores-50 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1828/...7c32fdfc_b.jpgFlores-48 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1724/...78aa940f_b.jpgFILE6878 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1748/...4fe24662_b.jpgFILE6882 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1725/...281ff36f_b.jpgFILE6895 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/920/4...115663fa_b.jpgFlores-49 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1805/...1e093679_b.jpgFlores-51 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1736/...7d754907_b.jpgFILE6896 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1746/...2fffc4da_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1728/...209880b6_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1758/...54bcdc9a_b.jpgFILE6954 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/919/4...33b2ac92_b.jpgFlores-52 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/919/4...c18ffba2_b.jpgFlores-53 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
There are a few sections with very tight steep of camber hairpins, and combine this with disrupted payment and meeting an oncoming vehicle it can be a bit hairy. We decided to go straight the whole 3 hours just to get it done.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1750/...5a2f77ea_b.jpgScreen Shot 2018-06-04 at 18.49.59 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1722/...c45b4e73_b.jpgFILE6838 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1746/...b640a3e3_b.jpgFILE6962 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr It is pretty hot today and we were soaked when we arrived to the town. There is traffic, but it moves at least and they have a one way road thru the centre. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1759/...a0b2878e_b.jpg |
We arrived to the ferry dock to see if we could find a schedule. It is a bit confusing where the boats go, but they have dates and times. There is no open office as no boats leave today. There is a PALNI ferry to Makassar tomorrow according to the schedule posted.
We left the yard and out on the street stopped at a travel agent to ask where the ferry office is. It is just 1.8 km farther down the road and we had passed it on the way into town. The staff came out to greet us when we parked the bikes out front and spoke some English. Well enough at least to tell us the PALNI ferry line is to Makassar, but passengers only. The ASDP line we had used to Larantuka takes the vehicles, but to Bira on the south east of the island of Sulawesi. Conveniently their office is just across the road. We walked in to find the staff lying on the couch with no shirt on and half eaten food all over. He ran out to get dressed. He did speak some English as well and we determined that the ferry goes every Tuesday at noon and it is a 24-25 hour trip. He did also tell us that next week when we want to leave it will be 3 days before the holiday to end the fasting month of Ramadan the eid alfitri. and so will be crowded. (Orvar was at the dock the next day to see and they crammed the last vehicle into the boat. So we will be at the dock very early for sure next week). We also found out that they boat does not leave from the usual docks ( we had seen a temporary cardboard sign yesterday pointing to a dirt track off the main road about 100 m before the PALNI passenger dock) This is a very narrow vehicle entrance and I imagine it might be mayhem! https://farm1.staticflickr.com/841/4...46d47b35_b.jpgFlores-55 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/923/4...9ff032be_b.jpgFlores-56 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1806/...3dd94c17_b.jpgFlores-57 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1789/...143217ba_b.jpgFlores-104 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
We have checked into resorts on the beach and 4.5 km out of the town.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1725/...c3927dc3_b.jpgFILE6972 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1759/...d6104262_b.jpg https://farm1.staticflickr.com/841/4...899d1809_b.jpgFlores-59 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1762/...f26f95fe_b.jpgFlores-68 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/899/2...6402547c_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1761/...820a9248_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1783/...04465913_b.jpgFlores-63 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/922/4...1862d167_b.jpg https://farm1.staticflickr.com/916/4...b551d3ea_b.jpgFlores-66 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1801/...bcf67fc9_b.jpgFlores-65 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
The town itself is very grubby and either under construction or falling down or both. The main street is full of tourist amenities like hotels, restaurants, dive shops, and tour companies. This was convenient as we could plan a day trip to the Komodo island and get the laundry and suits cleaned (12$ all our clothes and 2 suits). We decided on the “fast” boat for the day and this cuts the trip to Komodo from 3-4 hours to 90 min. We had to be on the pier at sunrise for the pickup.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/916/2...de9df99c_b.jpgFlores-70 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr Part one of our day was hiking and we are glad we did this early as it was too hot even then. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1786/...31503323_b.jpgFlores-81 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1785/...126ba4d6_b.jpg https://farm1.staticflickr.com/838/4...40a952b1_b.jpg We saw 3 large dragons on the beach, one big guy in the jungle and one baby. They hatched about 2 months ago and live in the trees for 3 years as the adults eat them. The deer on the island are dragon food! https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1764/...1fc4fa49_b.jpgFlores-82 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/837/4...e282ac91_b.jpgFlores-93 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/913/4...4d63f3e7_b.jpgFlores-87 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1823/...bc132b8b_b.jpgFlores-88 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1802/...3b7f7148_b.jpgFlores-89 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1789/...d73b96d6_b.jpgFlores-90 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1805/...fd1b4f9c_b.jpgFlores-91 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1786/...91dce0a9_b.jpgFlores-92 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/926/2...8bc778f2_b.jpgFlores-83 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1804/...cf7fe70e_b.jpgFlores-84 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/841/4...da97aeb9_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1787/...e8a392dc_b.jpg https://farm1.staticflickr.com/843/2...179c1397_b.jpgFlores-78 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr Our day also included a few snorkel stops and a visit to a pink sand atoll. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1733/...f40546e5_b.jpgIMG_2892 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1761/...476a4120_b.jpgFlores-85 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/916/4...e0746c25_b.jpgFlores-86 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
The rest of our week here was taken up with relaxing, snorkeling, and kayaking. Outside of the resorts the island are covered with plastic bottles thrown from boats or from the outer islands. They must buy all their drinking water and then they toss the bottles. Its horrible to see this when we were out kayaking from the resort. The next tiny island is just off shore and has a lot of monkeys and the shore is littered with garbage!
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/840/2...ac5e93ea_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1783/...47ccd8cc_b.jpgFlores-95 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/835/4...8d57c256_b.jpgFlores-110 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1821/...faaaf7a4_b.jpgFlores-111 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr The snorkeling off the resort pier is pretty good with lots of fish and some live coral. We have had enough relaxing, but we still have a few days left to wait for the ferry. The hotel asked Dan to do a photo shoot for some promotional material for the spa. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/918/4...be8d9cf1_b.jpg https://farm1.staticflickr.com/840/2...02a79579_b.jpgFlores-97 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1788/...6c9595da_b.jpg https://farm1.staticflickr.com/842/4...f6c1fe97_b.jpgFlores-102 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1732/...49a429fc_b.jpg This is the last night we will see the Swede as he will get the ferry tomorrow towards Bali and Java, while we will go to Sulawesi. This is goodbye for now after riding with him on 6 continents! https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1765/...c3ca4379_b.jpgFlores-103 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1784/...9134a0d5_b.jpgFlores-105 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
We have been told the ferry leaves every Tuesday a 1300 for Bira and that we should be at the terminal at 9 so we showed up at 830. It is a bit confusing, but there is a small sigh on the main road before the main terminal, which directs you right on a dirt road thru a construction site to the ASDP dock.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1735/...a325b5b6_z.jpgScreen Shot 2018-06-04 at 18.53.15 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1750/...9a650408_b.jpgFILE6994 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1721/...6aece33a_b.jpgFILE6999 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1737/...cb739ef3_b.jpgFILE7005 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr Here there are dozens of bikes parked, a few cars, and some small trucks. The ticket office is off to the right and we had scouted this out last week. We arrived and confirmed the boat is going today at 1300 and we can buy tickets at 10. You can not pre buy tickets at the terminal or on line. This is because the staff on the ferry actually come off and sell the tickets after they dock. There is some mayhem as the ferry to Bima leaves daily at 9 and most people are going there. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1724/...46a69786_b.jpgFILE7012 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/915/2...2d5d857f_b.jpgFlores-112 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
The Bira ferry docked at 930 and people poured off. The unloading took 2 hours as they would drive empty buses and small trucks onboard and load them with cargo from the deck. The vehicles came off packed to the rafters and with towers of stuff on the roofs.
Jo a rider from Jakarta also showed up to get in line. He had hedged his bets as he was not sure he could bet a ticket and he left all his gear at his hostel. Finally at 10 they started selling tickets for the sailing. You have to buy 2 the first to Pulau Jampea and the second from there to Bira. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1786/...5d46cfdf_b.jpg After the ticket sales started the foot passengers and moto-riders all went on board to claim their spot for the night. We had planned to ask the crew for a bunk room. We finally loaded after 1. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1770/...145b2b32_b.jpgFlores-114 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1725/...0d193c46_b.jpgFILE7017 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1756/...e6ab16b9_b.jpgFILE7019 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1728/...e388220a_b.jpgFILE7027 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/838/4...65eb0a4c_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1751/...64e3f7a7_b.jpgFILE7030 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
They crammed all the vehicles into the rear of the ship. We were asked to park as close to the wall as possible and so close Sara had to put a piece of cardboard between her pannier and the wall. We did the tying down, but several crew members came to check on it.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/899/4...37c4e95c_b.jpgFILE7033 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1754/...e95f3942_b.jpgFILE7051 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/895/4...7abbe308_b.jpgFILE7052 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/895/4...421e69c5_b.jpgFILE7190 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1742/...315d7c18_b.jpgFILE7217 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/916/2...1a539cf4_b.jpgFlores-116 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
Sara went upstairs to check on Jo (on the very top deck at a table under the shade cover) and see what was up (not a place we wanted to be as it was too exposed and would be the most sea sick inducing).
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1723/...9008947a_b.jpgIMG_2932 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1763/...f69cd857_b.jpgFlores-119 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1822/...7274b453_b.jpgFlores-120 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1768/...2c9c5241_b.jpgFlores-124 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr EVERY surface that was flat was covered with people and their luggage on the 2 upper decks and the tops of the main car deck cargo areas. There are several hundred humans on board and bunk beds for about 60. There are people lying on every floor surface except small walkways. It is insane with the screaming babies, load music, smoking, and roosters crowing. (They actually had cock fighting and gambling on deck in the middle of the night). The place is already a mess from the voyage over. The bathrooms however were quite clean as they are aqua toilets with bucket for flush. People actually were “showering” in here and so it was very wet, but clean. They also leave there shoes outside , which helps. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/925/4...4e6a986a_b.jpgFlores-123 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1782/...5e3bd145_b.jpgFlores-125 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1821/...5fa23e3c_b.jpgFlores-126 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/914/2...e043d35e_b.jpgFlores-127 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/835/2...b7d590ee_b.jpgFlores-128 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/924/4...c3d2eb3c_b.jpgFlores-129 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
Sara managed to get one of the crew to rent us a 3 berth bunk room for the 26 hour trip (for way too much, but with very cent). This had clean linens and air con! But best of all did not smell like goat urine from the truck full of goats and was nearly silent except for mild engine noise. We even had a port hole.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1784/...8852e343_b.jpgFlores-117 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/835/4...2271331a_b.jpgFlores-118 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1721/...80629ef4_b.jpgIMG_2930 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1722/...9f8fc04f_b.jpgIMG_2929 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1805/...a5fd3bb4_b.jpgFlores-121 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr It would have been a very difficult crossing if we had to sit on our chairs on the deck in the garbage and animal mess. In fact we had a pretty good night. We bought the usual instant noodles for lunch and watched the craziness going on around us. We were needless to say the only foreigners on board and quite a novelty. When Dan went up to the toilet the men in line for “showers” let him to the front of the line. We were up at 4 am when we docked at Pulau Jampea and Dan went out to buy some rice, noodles, and chicken in wax paper packs from one of the ladies that came on board to sell them. We also could get pretty good hot coffees. The sea was a bit rough on the way here and Sara did sleep well with some Gravol. We ate our meals after 9am and then relaxed in our sanctuary. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1763/...cbb451eb_b.jpgFlores-130 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1809/...1b60cab0_b.jpgFlores-134 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1722/...6eb1d157_b.jpg https://farm1.staticflickr.com/840/4...228b78b5_b.jpgFlores-131 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1829/...9bf733b1_b.jpgFlores-132 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1806/...19203628_b.jpgFlores-122 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1826/...158defae_b.jpgFlores-133 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
At 3 our ship tied up beside another ship that was already docked at Bira and was almost fully loaded and all our foot passengers climbed off the upper deck onto the main dock itself.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/892/2...8db860fd_b.jpg We had to wait until this other ferry was loaded and left the only docking station. We finally were almost off after 26 hours, but the truck blocking us in was dead and they had to push it off. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/883/2...c730b16a_b.jpgIMG_2942 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1725/...58647b44_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1758/...098011e3_b.jpgFILE7231 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/919/4...9fa6887f_b.jpg https://farm1.staticflickr.com/896/4...3abf00dc_b.jpg https://farm1.staticflickr.com/884/4...f29f0bc8_b.jpgFILE7244 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
Then we rode toward the main road to meet up with Jo for a photo and to say goodbye. We will stay here near Bira tonight and head west on the coastal route towards Makassar, while he will go up the east coast a bit today.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/920/4...d4f0e375_b.jpgSulawesi-2 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/875/4...445d7355_b.jpgFILE7251 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1741/...c375720d_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1744/...61744bb6_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1763/...5b6cdf9d_b.jpgSulawesi-8 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr Our plan on Sulawesi https://farm1.staticflickr.com/892/4...f5d04c9b_z.jpgScreen Shot 2018-06-09 at 14.40.44 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
Makassar is only 189 km from Bira, but google says it takes 5 hours….should be lots of traffic then? There are a lot more Muslims here so far than we have seen on Timor or Flores (where they were very sparse) and so a lot of Mosques. Arriving to the guest house we were already very hot after just 30 min in the suits. We had our cold water only shower and then walked down to the beach. Several people asked to have their photo taken with us?! The tide is out and all the boats are beached! The sand is white, but has a clay like feel. It is pretty humid here and so after a quick meal we retreated to our fan and air con.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1730/...1fac1992_b.jpgFILE7341 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1751/...d3359943_b.jpgIMG_2944 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1829/...63dc3677_b.jpgSulawesi-9 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/920/2...0f5fc10c_b.jpgSulawesi by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/927/4...649042d6_b.jpgSulawesi-3 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/835/4...8c58c4bb_b.jpgSulawesi-5 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1822/...9fc61e25_b.jpgSulawesi-4 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/843/4...43cd1d37_b.jpgSulawesi-6 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr We had a “halal” breakfast of deep fried plantains and donuts and coffee so strong it was thick with grounds we had to let them settle. |
Hey Sara!
We might be in Toronto when you roll through, PM us when you get close! Have a safe journey home! |
We set out a bit late at 9 and headed back to the road thru Bira the 189 km to Makassar.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1791/...48014788_b.jpgScreen Shot 2018-06-14 at 20.40.55 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1734/...4abe5a72_b.jpgFILE7357 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr Initially there was little traffic and we headed north west and along the sea. There is a history of boat building here and there are quite a few on the shore between the garbage! https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1723/...60b44828_b.jpgFILE7367 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr There is a lot of traffic and almost constant urbanization and a stream of traffic. Several of the villages had roadside hand pumps with regular benzene. We also passed many villages drying the seaweed from the nearby beaches. We also passed the greenest rice fields we have seen yet. This 39 km to the main road at Jalan Poros took 90 minutes. This included 30 minutes at the gas station waiting in line at the 2 pumps that were in use. We passed other stations during the day and though not as bad all had lines. There is no gas in Bira except from water bottles on the side of the road. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1737/...98a05b1a_b.jpgFILE7371 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1748/...edaf8189_b.jpgFILE7380 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1723/...cbdcae57_b.jpgFILE7390 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1743/...af1f5631_b.jpgFILE7398 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1751/...aa71aac4_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1788/...c2843b54_b.jpgSulawesi-12 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/879/4...3082b6fc_b.jpgFILE7422 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
On the main road the traffic was almost constant, but mostly moving. The flow is hampered by cars driving for some reason at 20 km per hour that need passing, but there is an oncoming stream of vehicles as well. There are slow moving scooters and tug tug and horse drawn cars as well. Add to this scooter boys who think they are in the moto GP in passing close to you in both directions and the cars oncoming who are often half in your lane. We have an aggressively defensive style that serves us well in this situation and though intense we survived unscathed. We passed huge salt farms as well.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1727/...dbaca0b9_b.jpgFILE7438 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/896/4...2cfe9f1f_b.jpgFILE7445 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1741/...f9c9512d_b.jpgFILE7455 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1723/...f31b95ef_b.jpgFILE7464 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1727/...efd68822_b.jpgFILE7481 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1737/...80833498_b.jpgFILE7511 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr We stopped at 1300 after 4 hours and only 90 km for lunch of fried chicken! The guys there wanted a photo Op. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1781/...97401e9a_b.jpgSulawesi-13 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr The traffic after entering the city was actually much better as there were finally 2 lanes. Because of Ramadan the hotels are empty and we could get a room at the 4 points Sheraton for 45$. We paid more for the sketch cold shower no flush toilet place in Bira. They have a nice pool area on the 9 th floor and even their own mosque. We had a simple dinner in the hotel restaurant. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1810/...2cb75bfa_b.jpgSulawesi-19 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
We had been contacted by a local rider Aditya, who had seen our friend Jo’s post on What’s app Overland Indonesia thread. Jo was letting people know to watch out for us. Actually Orvar is on this stream and so even he was sending us messages about this guy looking for us.
We had only planned one night here, but we could not miss the opportunity to join in the annual Hari Lebaran celebration to mark the end of the fasting month of Ramadan. On the first day of Lebaran you go from house to house of the senior relatives. We had a convoy of 10 vehicles. Aditya with his wife Isti, and the very cute Mika chauffeured us all day. You greet everyone with “Selamat Aidil Fitri”. We were warmly welcomed by the entire family and fed very well at each of the 6 stops. This was a very special day for us to experience! https://farm1.staticflickr.com/919/4...c2d4ef37_b.jpgSulawesi-14 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/839/4...667beca6_b.jpgSulawesi-15 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm1.staticflickr.com/842/4...785d2b8d_b.jpgSulawesi-16 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1789/...ddba8aa5_b.jpgSulawesi-17 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1808/...37cce899_b.jpgSulawesi-18 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr We did not eat dinner of course, but met up with Aditya, Isti, and Mika for breakfast. Well at least we ate as they are parents and up at 630 so have eaten, plus it is day 2 of Lebaran and they have a lot of food to get thru again today! He also took us to a station that sold 98 octane and also on th route out of town. https://farm1.staticflickr.com/915/4...1dc757f3_b.jpgSulawesi-22 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
We are headed north, but by the central route that is supposed to have less traffic and also leads us to the Toraja region with its unique culture. The plan it to get 193 km to the lake at Singkang.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1785/...dfd9f45d_z.jpgScreen Shot 2018-06-14 at 20.51.27 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr We set out on the main road north in fairly light traffic. The turn off is about 28 km from the hotel. https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1784/...ce0f6804_b.jpgFILE7515 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1817/...e4665f67_b.jpgFILE7522 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1834/...6f7a1196_b.jpgFILE7527 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
The traffic here in the countryside is worse actually and this was accentuated when we hit the curvy tight road up over the mountains. There are swarms of scooters who pass dangerously and we are stuck behind a line of 10 cars behind an old man driving the corners at 16 km per hour. It took over 20 minutes for us to get past him.
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1775/...5ebf4182_b.jpg https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1833/...d9840c02_b.jpgFILE7543 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
The rest of the day at least we made 45-50 km/hr. The middle section of the road is more sweeping curves, but the last is much straighter and we made better time. We stopped after 2 1/2 hours and 90 km for a drink and then made the last 90 km in 1 1/2 hours.
https://farm1.staticflickr.com/892/4...994a4d61_b.jpgFILE7552 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1787/...eb3ba83e_b.jpgFILE7554 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1820/...87158a00_b.jpgFILE7555 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1838/...bc24bec4_b.jpgIMG_2955 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr We arrived to the town and there was quite a bit of traffic jam. The first hotel we tried was sold out, but luckily the second had a room left. It is petty intense riding with all the noise and honking and people parked in the middle of the road and the scooters whizzing past. We did not get lunch and both the restaurants near by are closed due to the holiday. In the end it was ramen in the room and a roll of Oreos. There was some riveting TV! https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1765/...3cf5c8be_b.jpgIMG_2956 by Sara & Daniel Pedersen, on Flickr |
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