Definitely "do Etosha National Park. ...We rented a 4
WD truck and parked the bike at our hotel in Tsumeb for a week.
With the truck, we were able to tour the park on our own, camping
in the campsites run by the Ministry of Environment and Tourism
here." Truck rent from Imperial Rental in Tsumeb was very
South of Tsumeb, go to "Okonjima guest ranch. This place
was worth the 24 km on dirt roads to get to it. Okonjima is
the home of the Africat Foundation, and they use the revenue
from guest accommodation to fund its activities. They serve
as a home for orphaned cats.
Cheetahs wander on the lawns, and caracals, which are smallish
wildcats (about the size of a medium-sized dog) with very long
pointy ears, walk right into your room just like a house cat.
They also have playful lions, and wild leopards coming to a
hide to eat."
Very expensive, and you must reserve in advance, but absolutely
one of the BIGGEST HIGHLIGHTS OF OUR TRIP IN AFRICA. Incredibly
close to the animals, very well run and ecologically responsible.
Most of the money you pay goes to supporting the animals.
Sossusvlei in Namibia is also well worth a visit - spectacular
sand dunes, desert, Gemsbok etc.
Let us know how you do!
Have a great trip, hope this helps, Grant and Susan
Hi Susan and Grant,
Checked out your site, keep getting impressed.
Loved the new photos of the penguins
Can you help me with more details of the visa to Libya?
How long did it take in Tunisia and if you can remember how
Was it compulsory to take a guide?
Any other relevant info would be great.
We hope to arrive from Malta either direct to Tunisia or maybe
we will have to go back to Italy for the crossing. We are also
trying to get to Algeria, don't know if you had any info on
Any help greatly appreciated
Keep in touch
Peter and Kay Forwood
(Peter and Kay are from Australia, travelling around the world
on a Harley, started 1996 and going to whenever Harley's 100th
anniversary is. http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/forwood/
Hi, Peter & Kay. Good to hear from you. Various responses
<<Can you help me with more details of the visa to Libya?>>
See below - it is a hassle but worth it, in our opinion - the
alternative route of going back from Tunisia to Europe and across
to Egypt from Greece would have been way more hassle.
<<How long did it take in Tunisia and if you can remember
how much?>> Once you have the "invitation",
it's only a couple of days in Tunis. But the invitation takes
7-10 days after you've agreed details with the tour agency.
Our contact name in Libya is Tareg El-Badri, ITC Touring Center,
Tripoli, Libya. His phone number is Country code 218, then 21-75013
(also a fax machine) or 218-21-73811, or mobile 218-91-21-24472.
He does speak English.
<<Was it compulsory to take a guide?>> We were
told that was the case, but I suspect it depends on nationality.
We did hear of Europeans who were allowed in unescorted, having
obtained their visas at the various Libyan embassies in Europe.
Germany and Italy are both on good terms with Libya as they
are oil customers. As for Australians, I don't know what the
rules would be. Canada is just too close to the U.S. to be in
the Libyans most favoured nations list!
<<Any other relevant info would be great.>> You
will have to get your passport details translated into Arabic,
which your embassy in Tunisia should be able to do for about
<<We hope to arrive from Malta either direct to Tunisia
or maybe we will have to go back to Italy for the crossing.
>> We saw ferries from Malta in Tripoli when we were there,
but don't have any further info on them.
<<We are also trying to get to Algeria, don't know if
you had any info on there?>> We didn't go to Algeria,
but did meet a couple in Tunisia who had been there - this would
be summer of 1997, and they thought it was great. We read the
State Department Advisories, but take them with a grain of salt.
Your own embassy in the neighbouring country can also be a good
source of info, but they are also very conservative - just in
case you go somewhere and get killed or kidnapped, they want
to be able to say they warned you!
<<Any help greatly appreciated. Keep in touch. >>
Good luck. Spend lots of time in Tunisia - it's also known as
Arabia for beginners, and it's far more oriented to tourists
than either Libya or Egypt. You do have to be able to speak
enough French to get by, though, unless you speak Arabic. Tunisia
will help to prepare you gradually for the other parts of North
Africa or the Middle East.
We cannot recommend Egypt with a vehicle, as you will see from
the saga on the web site.
Suggest checking in Europe, esp. Italy on boats through the
Suez Canal to bypass Egypt.
All of the north eastern part of black Africa is dodgy but
changeable - Eritrea and Ethiopia are sniping at each other,
Sudan is still closed as far as we know, northern Kenya and
Somalia are considered pretty dangerous for overland travel.
You might be able to hook up with a m/c tour group. We met a
guy at the BMW rally in Montana this summer who runs tours through
Africa. He seems okay - can't vouch for him, though, as we have
always avoided organized tours. David Fisher, Director, Tours
for Africa USA Inc., P.O. Box 450926, Westlake OH 44145, USA,
1-440-327-6664, 1-440-327-6665 Fax.
There are also a number of m/c tour companies in Germany you
may already have details for, let us know if you need the contact
Once you get to Tanzania, your main worry will be road conditions
- and they will be lots of fun in Tanzania and Malawi. Zimbabwe's
infrastructure is good, as is Namibia and South Africa, and
lots to see in all of southern Africa. Kenya and Tanzania are
more well known for wildlife, but it's just as good in the south
and more accessible.
Keep in touch, Susan and Grant
From: Gloria Duda
Date: 29-Jan-99 7:27 PM
great web site.we can really relate to the egyptian border
story as we crossed from israel to egypt with a caravan and
a motorbike. your crossing had computers, where we crossed the
customs man had a chair with only 3 legs, the 4th leg was a
pile of rocks! we are starting to plan a 1 year africa overland
north to south on 2 enduro bikes. there is one area we can not
cross so will fly our bikes across that section. did you find
shipping your bike by air very expensive? any other advice?
thanks in advance. by the way we live in white rock so if you
are ever home it would be great to get together for a beer.
Hi Gloria and ?
Glad you liked the web site!
We would have been better off without the computer (singular)
at our crossing - it was worth about an additional 2 hours on
everybody's crossing time as it had to create the form you had
to carry with you for the licence plates and it was unbelievably
slow - 10 minutes per form!
We had originally planned to drive through Sudan, but the border
was closed tight, and there was no way through at all. We chose
to fly to Kenya, not Ethiopia, as we heard some real horror
stories about the Ethiopian paperwork if you were bringing in
a vehicle - like two weeks to get the vehicle cleared at customs
to bring it in! Pretty awful.
Also, when we were in Egypt, there was a lot of tension in
Kenya because of the upcoming election - we decided we wanted
to get through Kenya and on to Tanzania quickly to avoid the
problems. A good thing, as there was a major riot a block away
from our hotel in Nairobi the day after we left, which was reported
in all the major world papers and CNN etc. The country really
went to hell after that, and was very dangerous until some time
after the election. We were pleased to have missed it, and if
we had gone to Ethiopia as we originally planned we would have
been right in the middle of the shit in Kenya!
Shipping the bike by air from Cairo to Nairobi was an experience
- not to be repeated. Cost wasn't too bad, about US$1170 for
the crated bike at a total weight of 550 kilos.
Price was Egyptian pounds 4.4 per kilogram. Exchange was EP
1.00 to US$0.30
We hired a local importer exporter to do the paperwork for
Emad and Hany Fwzy El-Adawy
African Union for Import and Export
6, Darb El Barki
Ramses, Cairo Egypt
Tel 20-2-589-7155 or 20-2-393-4807
Flights worked out at US$1550 for the two of us.
The problem is that Egyptian customs won't stamp the carnet
until the bike is actually IN THE AIR - and of course you want
to be on that same plane. Problem. After a day and a half of
wrangling (I will be writing that story someday and posting
it) I finally got a Colonel in the Tourist Police at the airport
to come to customs and help - it took another two hours with
his assistance to get the carnet stamped. Note that all during
this day and a half the bike was in the customs impound area
at the airport. The fact that we couldn't get it back was irrelevant
- it had to be in the air and irrevocably gone before they would
risk stamping the carnet. They even offered to stamp the carnet
and mail it to Nairobi for us! Yeah right. Like I was born yesterday.
Emad and Hany have now been through the experience and it may
be no problem the next time...but you never know. If you use
them, tell them I sent you and you know all about the problem
with customs. Also they really don't understand how to build
an adequate crate - go with them to buy the materials. The materials
they originally supplied to build the crate (at the airport)
wouldn't have held a moped safely.
Plan on doing most of the planning and organising part of the
building of the crate and supervise their guys carefully. They
work hard but don't understand the strength required for big
Landing in Nairobi is straightforward, somebody will try to
get you to hire them to do the customs clearance for you - it's
normal to do so, but clear with them what their charges will
be - don't take "not much" for an answer - and how
long it will take and how much in "tips" to get it
through. Expect US$100+ if you want it in a few hours, as in
sometime today. You can try yourself, but it's pretty chaotic
and you don't know who and how much to "tip," although
you can probably figure it out eventually.
Uncrating the bikes is easy - let it be known that you don't
want the crates and they will disappear in seconds before your
eyes - they will do all the uncrating. Since you are doing two
bikes, make sure you do one bike at a time and both of you watch
or stuff will disappear.
As you can probably gather, I don't recommend the flying out
of Egypt method, but there isn't much else, so have fun, don't
let it get to you, relax, appreciate the experience, and good
Grant and Susan Johnson