Gonzalo Figueroa and Nina Maria Eidheim...

LA to BA

UPDATE 2, Dec. 5 2000, Baja California Hola amigos y que viva Mexico!

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When you first enter Northern Baja California you can't help asking yourself what the hell you are doing there. The first impression is that the whole thing is a junkyard wasteland. You expect Mad Max to show up any minute. I have often wondered where all the old American cars go... Well, the answer seems to be Mexico. They are all over the place. Either on the road or decorating the landscape and peoples gardens as piles of rusty metal.

But first impressions can be deceiving. Once we came to Bahia de Los Angeles on the Sea of Cortez the Baja Bug began to get hold of us. We intended to stay only a day and ended up staying five. I understand now why you see so many old motorhomes which just seemed to have been parked a decade ago a have not moved ever since.

Baja California has so many fantastic places that you could (and should) spend a few months exploring it. The past two weeks we have just been jumping from beach to beach. And each one keeps getting better. At one point we followed an old school bus from Canada. It started in British Colombia with only two people in it. Two weeks later the caravan was composed of 10 individuals, one car with some fantastic Aussies, one motorbike (us), a bicycle and a dog. When we rode into town it looked like the circus had just arrived. We became such good friends that it was difficult to say good bye. But we did, and rode to one of Baja's best kept secrets. If you want paradise and want to be alone, find and go to Agua Verde. I'll give you a hint: Kilometers 63 and 64 south of Loreto. If you get there, ask one of the 80 people living there how to get to Ensenadita. We had a whole little cove with crystal clear water and white beach to ourselves. We ran around like children without clothes, swam and ate the biggest shrimp we had ever seen. What a place. Mountains and deep green sea.

We are currently in La Paz, the capital of BCS. We've been camping for the past two weeks so I am very dirty and happy! We are taking the boat over to Mazatlan in the mainland in just a couple of hours. We have just got an extension on our permits so we expect to stay in Mexico over new year. Everybody in the USA made it sound like once you crossed the border terrible things would happen. What can I say: so far so perfect. Everybody is extremely nice, friendly and helpful. Anyhow, I probably smell so bad that I think I can scare off any "bandidos".

Internet is not always available but we will try to keep all of you informed. As I said, we will try to send some updates twice a month but it all depends. A special hello goes out to all in Norway and if you get tired of the dark winter come to Baja. Sun every day.

Here's some useful info for all those who are coming or riding behind us:

1) Some highlights in Baja California: Bahia de Los Angeles, Mulege and Agua Verde.
2) You can camp for free on just about all the beaches. It's safe and you'll meet plenty of other travellers.
3) When you enter Mexico make sure to get the amount of days you require. To extend your tourist card you will have to pay 170 pesos one more time. Ouch.
4) Boat prices on most guides are out of date. Current price to La Paz to Mazatlan is aprox. 30 USD per person plus 66 USD for a bike.
5) If you have a tent, don't even bother with getting a room in La Paz. Drive to Playa Tecolote (aprox. 25 km from town, only 5 from the ferry terminal) and camp there. Great place. Safe and clean. And try the food at Mario and Socorros restaurant called "La Concha de Tecolote". The best meal we've had in Mexico so far.

We'll be in touch, Gonzalo and Nina

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So who are we?

Update 1, November 2000, First road report

UPDATE 2, Dec. 5, 2000, Baja California, Hola amigos y que viva Mexico!

UPDATE 3, Dec. 17, 2000, Central Mexico

UPDATE 4, January 4 2001, Southern Mexico

UPDATE 5, January 31 2001, Guatemala

Update 6, Feb 7 2001, Honduras and Nicaragua

Update 7, Feb 15 2001, Costa Rica

Update 8, Mar 8 2001, Huaraz, Peru

Update 9 April 7, 2001, Cusco, Peru

Update 10 April 23, 2001, Bolivia

Update 11: May 15, 2001, Buenos Aires, Argentina

Story and photos copyright © Gonzalo Figueroa and Nina Maria Eidhein 2000-2001.
All Rights Reserved.
Grant Johnson

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