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Riding the globe...

Horizons Unlimited
Motorcycle Travellers'

in cooperation with
Quality Touring equipment worldwide.

Are you a TRAVELLER? Are you interested in gun-battles at the Ecuadorian border, sidecar milkshakes, container ships falling from the sky, camel safaris in Jaisalmer, close encounters with yaks, grizzlies and relentless vicious swine, hairpin curves in the snow, asphyxiated in Nepal, alien monsters and much more...?

Then you're reading the right newsletter!

In this e-zine:

Community News
Final Thoughts
Home Again
In Progress...
New Links
Repair Shops on the

Seen on the road
Travellers Community
Who's on the Road
Your Privacy
Become a Horizons Unlimited Contributing Member or Gold Member!

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Motorcycle Travellers' News Report

August 2009, 74th Edition

Welcome to the 74th edition of the HU e-zine! Since our last issue, we've been in the Spanish Pyrenees hosting the 3rd annual HUMM motorcycle orienteering event. We then raced through France to Niedereschach, Germany to visit Herbert at Touratech and see the factory and new showroom, which is very impressive!

We carried a spare tyre (or tire) all the way from England to Germany and then to Switzerland searching for the perfect remote Alpine pass to change the front tire and videotape it for DVD3. Of course, things didn't go exactly to plan! I'm sure eventually Grant will look back with amusement on the whole experience, but for now I am sworn to silence about what actually transpired. We did get the footage we wanted, but I can tell you that the out-takes will be priceless some day ;-)

Back in the UK for just a couple of weeks and then Grant flew to North Carolina for the first of several HU meetings in North America - North Carolina, Colorado and California. I dropped him off at the airport and picked up my assistant Editor, a.k.a. my sister Gerri, for a visit. Of course, she doesn't just get to play here at HU headquarters. In fact, she spent all day yesterday working on the e-zine so we could get it out by the end of August! She was last heard muttering something about sweatshop working conditions when she headed off today for a train journey to Norwich.

Grant is 'out of office' for all of September, having a well-deserved two-week off-road trip in Colorado and a family visit in Vancouver before heading to the first HU California meeting end of September, then back to the UK. That means your editor IS Horizons Unlimited for most of the month. The good news is that we do have a real video editor again to work full-time on the DVD project, so I only have 2 instead of 3 jobs ;-)

But enough about us. Our intrepid travellers are making the most of summer, chasing the sunshine in Kyrgystan, Argentina, Brazil, Chile, Belize, Guatemala, Mexico, Alaska, Yukon, Ecuador, Croatia, Peru, Russia, Korea, India, Gabon, Nepal, Switzerland, France, Pakistan, Indonesia and Thailand. And those are just the ones we tracked down! So, get out there on the road - we want YOUR adventure stories and pics!

Susan Johnson, Editor

The new 'Achievable Dream' DVD Series! First press reviews in!
Achievable Dream DVD series - The Motorcycle Adventure Travel Guide - DVD1 - Get Ready!

"The 'Achievable Dream' part one DVD is a heart-warming and inspiring video. It simply makes you want to chuck it all for an adventure. Immerse yourself in the Achievable Dream for a few hours and I'll guarantee that you’ll watch it way more than once. I am positively salivating for the next instalment. Two dusty riding thumbs up!" Motorcycle Mojo, July 2009

"Its tips will save you money, help unravel the red tape and might keep you out of jail. The DVD is also inspirational and makes the point that you don't have to be a super rider, super fit or have loads of dosh to give it a go." Motor Cycle Monthly, May 2009

Have you been inspired by the stories you've read in this e-zine? Or perhaps you watched the 'Long Way' series and it's got you thinking of a motorcycle trip to distant climes – the markets of Marrakech, the Karakoram Highway in Pakistan, the salt flats of Bolivia, the Bungle Bungles of Australia, the Pan American to Tierra del Fuego?

Did you finally fork out for that dream bike built for high adventure, and you know every highway and byway within range of an annual vacation? Is something indefinable calling you farther afield… to the next country… the next continent?

But you've got questions:

* Is it safe?
* What do I need to know?
* Where and when should I go?
* And what the hell's a carnet anyway?

Answering these questions - and many more - is the goal of the new definitive 'how-to' DVD series, "The Achievable Dream - The Motorcycle Adventure Travel Guide".

We took what we learned from our own travels, and since then, from helping other travellers, to create this series. We also asked the many veteran travellers who attend Horizons Unlimited meetings to tell us their stories, give us their opinions, and share their hard-earned knowledge from their amazing motorcycle trips to every country on earth. And they have lots of opinions, sometimes contradictory, so you'll get lots of great ideas. You'll hear from Sam Manicom, Chris and Erin Ratay, Greg Frazier, Austin Vince and many others. We've even interviewed Ted Simon in California, and Peter and Kay Forwood while on location in Samoa!

What's covered? Everything you ever wanted to know about motorcycle travel!

  • Now Shipping - Get Ready! aims to inspire you to take the plunge, and start to prepare for the trip. Topics include planning, travelling solo or with others, money, paperwork for you and the bike, off-road riding, health and medical.Achievable Dream DVD series - The Motorcycle Adventure Travel Guide - DVD4 - Ladies on the Loose!
  • Now Shipping - Ladies on the Loose! Here, for the first time ever, is a motorcycle travel DVD made for women, by women! An intrepid band of well-travelled women motorcyclists share their tips to help you plan your own motorcycle adventure - choose and maintain a bike, decide what to take and tackle tough terrain. They also answer the women-only questions, and entertain you with amazing tales from the road! This DVD is directed and presented by Lois on the Loose, veteran solo traveller through South America and Africa and author of 'Lois on the Loose' and a new book out now: 'Red Tape and White Knuckles'. Lois' husband Austin Vince (Terra Circa, Mondo Enduro) is her director and cameraman, and also wrote the music for the whole series!
  • On the Road! covers shipping the bike, border crossings, language, culture shock, cultural do's and don'ts, food, accommodation, safety, dealing with emergencies, staying healthy on the road and much more.
  • Gear Up! covers the Kit - bike and other stuff, including which bike, preparing the bike, what to take and how to pack it.

For the new series, we have invested in professional filming, editing and production. Filmed in broadcast quality wide screen, incorporating multiple cameras and with custom written vocals and music.

More positive feedback on 'Get Ready!' and 'Ladies on the Loose!'

"I thank you very much for the first DVD - it was very inspiring and convinced us that everyone can participate in the global bike adventure regardless of financial capacity, choice of bike and age." Mick, Australia

"I watched 'Get Ready' on my own and with a little coaxing got him to watch 'Ladies on the Loose' with me. By the end I could see the cogs ticking over and he looked at me and said 'People really do this - I think we could too!' Success!  That is why it is called the 'Achievable Dream' series darling! Even though the debate still rages about one bike or two (I will have to get my licence) we now have a source of info we can refer to time and time again. Thank you guys- keep up the great work!" Lisa and Stu, Australia

"Keep up the fabulous work! We loved the first 2 DVDs and have no worries about waiting for the next ones if more time is required, we do however await them anxiously as the content is great - kind of like waiting for Christmas! Thank you for putting these together! Hope you are getting as much enjoyment from making them as we are from watching and being inspired by them." Angela, Canada

"I just finished watching Ladies on the Loose! with my girlfriend. She said the sidecar looked quite comfortable... hmm... I guess it's gonna take me some more effort to put her behind riding bars then!  ;) Great job, I was glued to it." Pascal, Hong Kong

"'Ladies on the Loose' arrived last week and we watched it over the weekend. We both enjoyed it very much, especially my wife so again very well done. My wife was really inspired by the stories of these strong women and I was a little demoralised as their skill, mechanical knowledge, courage and determination far exceeds mine. Was great to see Lois on video as I had recently read both her books." Stephen, Australia

"I echo others' comments about the quality of 'Ladies on the Loose' DVD as it is excellent! Good job." Bill, USA

"The quality of the first two (1 & 4) is really professional and an absolute credit to you. Thanks once again we do really appreciate your efforts in making 'The Achievable Dream' an excellent series." Allan, Australia

"We received the DVDs yesterday! We already watched part 4 and it was great. Invaluable for the preparation for our own trip! Looking forward to the others." Xander, the Netherlands

"We received our copy of 'Ladies on the Loose' a few weeks ago and it has got me all fired up to go out on my own adventure. You all did a fantastic job on the DVD and we are eagerly awaiting the final DVDs. It sounds like such a huge job but the final results have been invaluable to future motorcycle travellers." Kath and Rob, Australia

When can you get it?

We are taking orders now for all DVDs. 'Get Ready!' and 'Ladies on the Loose!' are shipping now. We will ship the others as they come available, and we're offering free shipping worldwide on pre-orders only (i.e. until all DVDs are in production).

We don't expect to ship 'On the Road!' before end-October. There's almost 12 hours of rough cut content to edit for 'On the Road', and we've done a first pass to take it down to 8 hours, but then it gets harder as you're possibly throwing away useful material. To be honest, when we wrote the script back in April 2008 we took our best guess as to how long the DVD would be, but we probably underestimated what was needed to cover the topics. Now we think it will likely be a 2 DVD set totalling 4-5 hours (at no extra charge for pre-paid orders). For example, Grant's demo on 'Tire Changing' is almost an hour, and 'First Aid' is half an hour. Since these are both topics that are very popular at the HU meetings, we know many people are interested in them, but clearly if you devote 1.5 hours of a 2.5 hour DVD to those two topics, you'd squeeze many other important topics out, such as language and culture, border crossings, accommodation and bodges!

We're expecting 'Gear Up!' to be shipping in November. It is actually further along than 'On the Road' in some respects, but we will be shooting more footage on bikes and bike prep to complete some of the chapters, which is why it will be the last to produce.

We do appreciate the pre-orders, as the cost of doing all this has been huge, and we're grateful for your patience. However, some of you have been waiting patiently for quite a long time! Since we don't want anyone to feel we took their money under false pretenses, if you don't want to wait and would like a refund, let us know and we'll be happy to provide it. We will then notify you when each DVD is ready so you can reorder at that time.

Watch the trailer for DVD 1 'Get Ready!' and order now!

Special thanks to our generous sponsors of the Horizons Unlimited Achievable Dream Series, Touratech and Michelin!

Everything for the motorcycle traveller.    Michelin Tires, quality tyres for motorcycles and cars.

Note: Sponsor opportunities still available!

2009 Photo Contest for 2010 Calendar - Closing 15 September!

The contest is now an annual event, where you can showcase your best photos, and they can help inspire others to get on the road too. The best 13 photos will be used in the calendar, and those photographers will share equally in half the proceeds. Winners will also get a free 2010 calendar, and 1 year Gold Member status on the HUBB.

To be a winner, so we can publish the calendar, you must have available at least 2300x1800 pixel or greater files, at a high jpg quality. Either dimension - or both can be larger! Photos must clearly portray MOTORCYCLE Travel. The whole bike doesn't need to be in the picture, but it must be obvious that it's a motorcycle trip. Remember, contest closes September 15, 2009, so get your entry in soon! Anyone can win!

How to contribute, and become an HU Member

As always, thanks to all our generous supporters for helping us to keep going. For those who haven't yet contributed, or haven't recently contributed, here's how you can help, and the benefits to you!

Benefits of becoming a Horizons Unlimited Contributing Member or Gold Member!

Can't/Don't want to use electronic payment? Support HU via Snail Mail


It's our advertisers, sponsors, and sales of the HU DVD series that make it possible for us to make the website and e-zine available to you. We hope you'll check out their products and services and if you plan to buy these products, do it from our site or links.

If you do use the services of one of our advertisers/supporters, we hope you'll let them know that you're buying from them because of their support for HU - and of course that they have a great product or service! :)

If you know anyone who should be advertising with us (anyone who sells motorcycles or motorcycle accessories, riding gear, camping equipment and clothing, transports motorcycles, organizes motorcycle tours, or has motorcycles to rent should be advertising), please let us know or even better send them to our Advertisers page with your recommendation.


If you've had problems receiving the e-zine due to spam filters or insufficient bandwidth, remember you can subscribe to the 'Notice' edition instead of the full HTML version. The Notice edition is a short, straight text message that contains a URL to bring you to the full text on the website. Because the Notice email is so small, it downloads in a flash, and leaves your mailbox uncluttered. Change to the Notice version here.

We now have an Syndicate this Channel RSS feed for the e-zine (you'll need an RSS Reader to use it) and all the travellers' blogs have their own feeds. The HUBB has a full RSS feed here. If you're not sure what that's all about, there's a detailed RSS Guide here.

Please submit news reports, web links etc. to us for inclusion in this newsletter.

We try to link to your website if you have one. And if you don't have a website, we can help, and it won't cost you anything.

This newsletter is provided as a complimentary service for travellers everywhere, both on the road and (temporarily ;-) off. Your support is greatly appreciated.

your editors, Grant and Susan Johnson, (about us, contact us)

up to top of pagespacerHorizons Unlimited Travellers Meetings...

Meeting Reports

HUMM 2009, Spanish Pyrenees - July 20-22, 2009

The weather co-operated beautifully for riding for the 3rd annual HUMM in the Spanish Pyrenees. Over 40 teams participated, and while we aren't publishing the 'league tables', we do want to recognise the trophy winners:

Off-road Over 645cc

  • First Place - Iain Woolley and Ian Chappel reclaimed their title and top score overall - congrats!
  • Second Place - newbies Paul and Hans Jorgen Ostergaard (Team Viking)
  • Third Place - Charles Fleming, Jon Boella and Mathieu Preveraud (Charlie's Angels)

Off-road Under 645cc

  • First Place - James de Ville, Trent Whitta and Peter Baird - the Mushman Candidates retained their Team #40 from last year so they didn't have to repaint their bikes! Well done, guys!
  • Second Place - Bernard McKevitt and Peter Ferris (Pog Mo Thoin)
  • Third Place - Dave Austen and Linda Hughes

Paved Road

  • First Place - David Pointer, Gary Smith and Matt Pope
  • Second Place - Steve and James Grant

Team Garage Night has put together a video of their experiences at the HUMM this year. Here's the short version on the HUBB, and you can also watch the full length version on their website. Ian Chappel, Mike Pocock and Chris Milne have sent us a bunch of photos. Here's just a few of them, we will get others posted on the HUBB asap.

I'm sure the checkpoint is here somewhere!

I'm sure the checkpoint is here somewhere!

Washing the bike.

Washing the bike the hard way!

After a hard day's riding, it's nice to relax by the pool!

After a hard day's riding, it's nice to relax by the pool!

Some nice comments from the participants:

"Thanks for organising the HUMM 2009. I had such a good time and made friendships which are set to last a long time."

"You are to be congratulated on creating and running such a brilliant and unique event. Surely ranks amongst the top ten 'best fun' biking experiences I've had the pleasure to be involved in."

"First time to the event for me. Thought it was fantastic."

"With riding in Europe I find it difficult to know which dirt roads are public - I love the fact that someone has marked out publicly rideable but challenging roads that can be undertaking legally (despite occasional cow-herding locals bailing up riders and whacking them with sticks!)."

"Thanks so much for organising the HUMM again this year, we had a brilliant time."

"The location was great, the Hotel's facilities were good too (especially the spa). The people taking part were great fun - such a diverse crowd."

"First time I've ever done anything like this and was lots of fun. Will be back for the next one."

"Beautiful scenery, good mix of easy/challenging terrain, aircon garage for bikes/spannering, great mix of people, well organised."

"Grant and yourself have once again managed to pull off a fantastic event and social. We had a great time and really enjoyed ourselves, so from us a massive thank you, and we are looking forward to next year."

"Thanks for all your efforts in organising such a great event, I still can't stop smiling!"

You are all very welcome! Thanks so much for all the great feedback and ideas, which we will try to incorporate into next year's event. Mark your calendars now for 27-29 July, 2010, and we'll get the registration page up as soon as we can.

Canada West - August 6-9, Nakusp, BC,

Ekke and Audrey Kok and Andy and Luciana Miller hosted this event, and did a brilliant job according to the 100+ attendees.

Andy Miller demonstrating proper riding technique at the HU Canada 2009 meeting.

Andy Miller demonstrating proper riding technique at the HU Canada 2009 meeting

In Ekke's words:

"We wanted to send a thank you to the presenters and volunteers. You are the ones that made the 2009 Horizons Unlimited Meeting in Canada a fantastic success, we couldn't have done it without you.

  • Andy: The flat fixing and ergonomics presentations were well attended and by all accounts very helpful. Also thanks for helping with registration;
  • Lu: Thanks for printing out the name tags;
  • Bill: A great presentation on the back roads up to Alaska, there is so much more to explore;
  • Dale: A fun presentation and great tips on how not to load a motorbike into a truck;
  • Bob: South America looks like a great place to ride;
  • Helen: Thanks for leading the "Women Only" session;
  • Kevan: By all accounts a very informative session and I hope the video turns out so that I can see it;
  • Jeremy: Thanks for the preview of the next book, we can hardly wait;
  • Carol and Peter: Thanks for showing that an old Airhead is still perfectly viable for world travel (even an RT);
  • Monica and Trent: Thanks to your energy and enthusiasm Colombia looks like an amazing place to travel;
  • Rene: What a great idea to focus on just one country from your extensive travels, and a neat, out-of-the-way country it was too;
  • Tom: I wish I could say we planned the perfect finale to the meeting (an exciting adventure in our own back yard) but we just got lucky;
  • Onno: Thanks for taking the time to videotape and photograph the event.

We've had a number of very positive e-mails and the discussion on the HUBB is very positive as well. Thanks and we look forward to seeing you next year! Ekke & Audrey"

Ekke and Audrey presenting at the HU Canada meeting.

Ekke and Audrey presenting at the HU Canada meeting

This year we weren't able to get to the Canada meeting, but we do want to thank Ekke, Audrey, Andy, Luciana, the presenters and volunteers and all the participants - you make the meeting!

USA East - August 20-23, Iron Horse Motorcycle Lodge, North Carolina

This event just over, no written reports in yet but Grant was there, said it was great and an enthusiastic bunch of folks. We want to thank Mike Kilpatrick for a superb job organizing, Linda and Denis Blaise, David Bowers and Merrill Glos for presenting, and all the participants. And also thanks to John and Charlene at Iron Horse for the superb venue and great food! burp...

Why Come to a Horizons Unlimited Motorcycle Travellers Meeting?

You can meet people who don't think you're crazy for wanting to ride your bike to South America or Africa or across Asia, or even around the world! Admit it, all your 'normal' friends and most of your family fear for your sanity! So, this is your opportunity to meet the people who will encourage you in that craziness, share their experiences and advice on how to do it, and maybe you'll meet them again in Mongolia or Timbuktu!

Also importantly, the meetings help to make HU more than just a website, but a community of motorcycle travellers - real people, not just e-mail addresses ;-) And last but not least, they make a significant contribution to HU revenue, thus helping us to keep the HUBB and website going! So thanks to everyone who comes!

Meetings and Events, 2009. Mark your calendars and sign up now!

USA Colorado, Gunnison, - August 27-30. New location with new roads and trails to ride! Details here - Online registration is now closed, but there is plenty of space left at the meeting, so come along!

Spain, Malaga, September 11-13. Same location as last year. Mini-meeting - no charge but donations for food gratefully accepted. NOTE: There will be a One Day HUMM (or is it a HUMMM?) on the 13th! Contact Alison Makin for questions and to let her know you're coming.

USA California, September 24-27, the 'Lost Coast', Special Guest - Ted Simon! Register now!

Deutschland Autumn, October 23-25, same location. Register now!

2010 Meetings

UK 2010 - 24-27 June, 2010. Register now for early bird rates!

HUMM 2010 - 27 - 29 July, 2010. Mark your calendars, registration will be open soon and numbers are limited!

Bulgaria has been added to the events list! Details to come.

More dates to come as we get them.


How about you? We're all here to learn, and there's LOTS to learn! We want to do more presentations and seminars - but we need volunteers to give them! Any topic you can contribute having to do with motorcycle travel, maintenance, planning etc, lasting 20 minutes or more, would be great. Please contact us here to volunteer.

Volunteers and Hosts

Volunteers for all meetings are needed, just a couple of hours of your time makes it all a lot easier - and fun - for all. You can volunteer a few hours of your time for any meeting here.

If you'd like to host an HU Meeting in your area, please see the How To Host a Meeting page for details.

See the Meetings page for more details on all events.

See you there! Grin!

Grant and Susan

Help support the Horizons Unlimited E-zine - visit our sponsors!
Please be sure you tell them how you heard about Rukka
. Thanks!

The Rukka brand name has become a synonym for high quality textile motorcycling apparel, and year after year the Finnish manufacturer has caused sensations pioneering highly innovative solutions for those looking for maximum quality, comfort and protection.

Adventure motorcycling clothing for the demanding traveller
Grant: We've been wearing Rukka since 2002 and highly recommend it!

Horizons Unlimited
New Links...

Too many to list! If you haven't checked out the Links page it's time you did - it's scary long, but it's a fascinating browse.

Get your website listed in the LINKS Section

by listing Horizons Unlimited on YOUR web site, let me know you've done it by mailing me a link to the page, and you may get listed here in the next newsletter and on the Horizons Unlimited web site Links page. To make it easy for you, we even have our logo and link code here!

All sites will be considered for listing, but must be a MOTORCYCLE or TRAVEL site, useful or of interest in some way to travellers. We reserve the right to refuse to link back.

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up to top of page A host of
volunteers for 'People en route !'

There are many 'Helpful People' listed on the Links page, a huge thanks to all of them. How about you? Or you can join a Community, or start your own!

up to top of pagespacer Repair Shops...

Do you know of a good shop 'on the road,' other words, somewhere there isn't a large number of shops? (Also of course any shop that specializes in travellers equipment and repairs is of interest.) But we're particularly looking for those rare items, good repair shops in South America, Africa and Asia etc. Please post your info in the Repair shops around the world Forum on the HUBB.

There are now 100's of shops listed in out - of - the - way places, from Abidjan to Ghana to Peru! Be sure to check out the HUBB 'Repair shops around the world' forum if you need work done!

up to top of pagespacerWho are they?

When you meet people on the road, and they haven't heard of this e-zine or the website, we'd appreciate it (and hope they would too!) if you'd get their names and email addresses and send it in to me.

Thanks, Grant

Request for info

Wouldn't YOU like to know all about the border you're approaching - what it should cost, paperwork required, 'tips' needed, and who to talk to, etc.?

When you cross ANY border, take some notes, and pass them on to us. Thanks!


The Shipping page on the site is HUGE! It can be reached directly or from the Shipping link on the Trip Planning page.

Travel Advisories:

The Foreign Office in London's Travel Advice Unit advises against travel to all sorts of places. Check out the listing before you start!

The US State Department regularly issues updated travel advisories, information and/or warnings.

Motorcycle Rental, hiring Honda's Transalp for touring Argentina and Chile. Ride across the Andes, from the Atlantic Ocean to the Pacific, lakes, deserts, salt pans, waterfalls, beaches, rain forests, glaciers...
Motocare Argentina

Motorcycle Therapy, by Jeremy Kroeker.

Motorcycle Therapy, by Jeremy Kroeker

From the Canadian Rockies to the Panamanian Jungle, Motorcycle Therapy rumbles with comic adventure as two men, fleeing failed relationships, test the limits of their motorcycles and their friendship. Get it here!

Achievable Dream DVD series - The Motorcycle Adventure Travel Guide - DVD1 - Get Ready!

Get the Achievable Dream DVD's NOW and learn how YOU can hit the road!

Achievable Dream DVD series - The Motorcycle Adventure Travel Guide - DVD4 - Ladies on the Loose! Get it now!

up to top of pagespacerWho's on the road, and where...

Tiffany Coates, UK, UK to Mongolia, in Kyrgystan,

"...Highlights from Kyrgystan: Horse riding for a day though the world's largest walnut forest on horses that had wooden saddles, not the most comfortable of rides with my notoriously bony backside.

Riding some of the best roads I have been on - steep mountain tracks, challenging enough to be enjoyable and high enough to experience eagles swooping in at 3000 metres for a closer look at the bike Tobi and Claus catching us up having ridden from Germany to Kyrgystan in nine days! just the thought of it is enough to make my backside go numb again.

Tobi collecting dry cow dung for a local style fire - more smoke than any flames unfortunately and that was only with a bit of petroleum assistance.

Lunching in a yurt with a family who invited us in when we turned up in their village looking pathetically hungry

Ladies' ride

Trying kymys - fermented mare's milk the nomadic families don't cultivate anything but have lots of horses so they make their alcohol from the milk. Kymys has a poor reputation but to be honest it was OK, tasted a bit like scrumpy (rough cider) but with a yoghurt after-taste. I was ready for seconds but thought I had better not as I still had 100kms of riding to do that day.

Camping at 3000 metres and the rain freezing to the outside of the tent.

Followed by swimming in the lake at the same altitude- a brief but refreshing swim, the others would not believe me when I said it was a similar temperature to the water at Porthcurno.

Yak herd


Trying to get close enough to the yaks to get a good picture but getting a bit spooked by the nasty look in their eyes and so retreating."

White desert sunset

White desert sunset

Ed. Tiffany shares her top tips for travelling in the new 'Ladies on the Loose!' Achievable Dream Series DVD - shipping now!

Help support the Horizons Unlimited E-zine - visit our sponsors!
Please be sure to tell them how you heard about Compass Expeditions. Thanks!

Discover the extraordinary with Compass Expeditions.

Johan and Charmaine Claassens, South Africa, RTW, in Argentina and Chile,

strange tree

Strange tree - Chile

"The road between Mendoza (Argentina) and Los Andes (Chile) has the reputation of being one of Argentina's most scenic, and to top the amazing scenery we had a perfect sunshine day to make it one of our most enjoyable rides between the two countries. The scenery was stunning as we rode past a few ski-resorts and saw people on their snow boards or skis coming down the steep white slopes. It was the kind of scenery we as South Africans only get to see in postcards and overseas travel magazines. We considered ourselves extremely blessed to be able to see it in real life.

Snowy road to Chile

Snowy road to Chile

After the border crossing, on the Chilean side we stopped and played a bit in the light fluffy snow next to the road. This type of snow was different than what we have experienced before, as it was more like dry-ice, and we did not get wet playing with it. It was an amazing experience. The road itself was perfect with no ice on the surface, which made the riding a pleasure. Yes it was cold, but with scenery this beautiful who cares about the temperature?

The road took us down to the town of Los Andes, where we had an empanada (meat pie) and Pap (local cool drink) for a snack, before we headed on to Santiago. As we rode past the rolling hills covered with vineyards we both agreed that the Chilean side of the mountains are much more scenic and nicer than in Argentina. In Santiago we stayed at the same hostel we stayed two months ago. Unfortunately the owner of the hostel was away on holiday, so all rules and regulations were not being enforced like last time we were here. The place was a mess, and guests were noisy until 2AM. In Santiago we fitted a new set of tires on the GS, as it is cheaper here than down under in Melbourne. The guy at the BMW shop told us bikes have gained amazing popularity here in Chile the last two or three years. While we were there waiting for the tires to get fitted, we witnessed a student and his dad buying a brand new blue F650. It reminded me of my first new bike, an excitement you can't explain and can only experience once in your lifetime.

hairpin curves

Hairpin curves

The next Sunday we left for Valparaiso. This would be our last ride on this Continent on this journey, and I wanted to make it a memorable one. Instead of riding on the main dual carriage highway, we rode a scenic road over a winding mountain pass and past the lovely Vina del Mar Resort-town. There was not a cloud in sight and it was the perfect final day on the bike for us."

Oliver Abrahams, UK, in Belize and Guatemala, Honda XL650 Transalp,

"When it actually happens you don't have any last thoughts!

Being constantly confused is frightening. I now understand what my grandma (with dementia) is going through and I really feel for her. Today I woke up in a strange place and had no idea how I got there. At first I thought I'd got really drunk and found my way here. Then as bits started to come back I realised it wasn't the drink that hit me but the road. A guy called Winston found me wandering around a dirt road near Placencia, Belize. He stopped and apparently I asked him where I was. He pointed to the spot on my map and I then said, 'No. What country am I in?'

At that point he realised something was wrong and he brought me to Lisa and John's beach resort in Riversdale, Belize. It appears that I either hit a rock or mud, came off my bike and hit my head pretty hard. Thank God for bike helmets and body armour. More importantly, thank God for people like Winston, John, Lisa, Bill, the doctors that treated me, Maria, Rosie and everyone else at the Lost Reef Resort, Belize.

These people have taken me in, had me seen by world class doctors and are doing everything they can to make my stay here as enjoyable and comfortable as possible. I can't tell you anything about the accident because I'm still pretty confused about a lot of things and my short term memory is shot. I'm told it will eventually return but it's a matter of time. The good news is that I banged myself up very close to paradise, so the convalescence is an enjoyable experience.

I'll fill you in soon on how these people are looking after me and what they are doing to help my body and mind recover.

In the meantime I need to reiterate how important proper motorcycle equipment is.

Oliver's foot after accident.

Oliver's foot after accident.

If I hadn't been wearing motorcycle boots I could have lost my right ankle. If I hadn't been wearing knee and shin guards I could have lost my right kneecap or perhaps leg below the knee. If I hadn't been wearing a proper (certified) helmet I would not be writing this now. It doesn't matter how hot it is or inconvenient the motorbike kit is to wear. It's definitely worth it. A picture of the bike on the road - no idea if I took it!

bike crash

Much later - from Guatemala -Ollie is much recovered and on the road again.

...Much as I'm enjoying myself here I'm starting to get itchy feet and feel I need to get back on the road. Following the advice of all the doctors I know I've given my brain the recommended 4-5 weeks to recover, reducing the chances of serious problems if I have another knock. So I'll be heading off at the end of the week."

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Daniel Shell & Jacquie Brazier, USA, in Mexico and Belize,

"...From Campeche we had a hard ride on a dirt road 21miles down to Celestun to see the pink flamingos. The 'short cut' added about an hour to our journey, and caused a not insignificant amount of tension between Jacquie and I, but that was all washed away on the boat trip to see the Flamingos the next day.

Flamingos in Mexico.

...From there, it was a straight shot to Cancun, via the amazing, and very expensive, ruins at Chichen Itza. It was blistering hot again, but the site was incredible.

Chichen - pyramid

Pyramid - Chichen

It was a shame that it is no longer possible to climb the pyramids, apparently health and safety is making a rare appearance, however, the ruins were irresistible to explore. After a few hours scrambling round the huge site, we rode down to the nearby Sambula for a quick refreshing dip in one of the Yucatan's many cenotes - an underground pool of water, before heading to Cancun.

(later, Daniel continues alone, in Belize)

...I continued down the road a little further until I reached my turnoff, and started the 25 mile dirt and gravel track, bumping and bouncing my way down to Placencia.

Cafe - Placencia

Cafe - Placencia

...arrived hot, tired and hungry at Placencia and set about the arduous task of finding a reasonably priced room that wasn't too shabby, or at least clean. In some places this is an easy job, in Placencia it was a chore. With the help of some friendly locals I found Oscar's Guesthouse, unloaded my gear, and set out in search of some good old Caribbean fried chicken. I wasn't too taken with Placencia, and set off after a hearty breakfast burrito back up the dirt road, along the wooden plank bridge, and towards Guatemala."

Wooden plank bridge, Plasencia

Ed. Lots of great pics and stories on Daniel and Jacquie's blog, here on Horizons Unlimited!

Stephen Bray, Ireland, Argentina to Alaska, in the Yukon,

"The thermals are on. Woke up today in my tent with freezing toes, reminds me of Patagonia. It takes frozen toes to remind me of the setup: Motorbike jacket goes under feet. Rookie mistake, won't happen again. We were camping out on a forestry access trail last night and some guy drove by and warned us about Grizzlies, hide your food after dinner!

Chips and beans, delicious. Camping food always is. The mozzies ate well that night too, they were relentless vicious swines.The next morning the Canadian hunter guy rocked by at 6am, he had a chat and we wasted some time. The friendliness of the Canadians is really holding us back, don't they realize this is an arctic sprint, hahaha, Oh yaa...

Entering the massive YUKON territory ...Welcome to Watson Lake, A town with the most stolen signs in the world... something like 70,000!

From Venezuela to Austin and from every corner of the world

From Venezuela to Austin and from every corner of the world.

We looked and we couldn't find one from Ireland, it was late and we just wanted to get to Barry's... so this is as good as we could get."

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Ian Moor, UK, Wrong Way Round The World, in Canada, F650GS,

"Nova Scotia- It's good to be in a county that has money with the Queen's face on it again! Canada is HUGE. Lying in my tent playing with the GPS as you do, I discovered my house in Newcastle, England was 2611 miles away. The Alaskan border was 3162 miles away in a straight line and 4849 miles by the shortest road route.

Cabot Trail

Collecting the bike, a BMW F650GS from Adrian's Cycles in Moncton, New Brunswick mid afternoon in hot sunshine I headed for Nova Scotia. The 12,000 mile service cost $324 Canadian (180 pounds sterling). Probably a good deal cheaper than a BMW dealer although I hadn't checked. Adrian, a Dutchman who emigrated in 1957 had a BMW dealership but now in semi-retirement has a shop selling spares, the occasional second hand bike and does servicing and repairs with his son.

Campbellton, New Brunswick from Sugarloaf Mountain

Campbellton, New Brunswick from Sugarloaf Mountain

Gaspesie, Quebec

Gaspesie, Quebec

There is a monument in Moncton commemorating the French who had settled Nova Scotia first, in 1604 (apart from the First Nation 'Indians' of course). A treaty signed the area over to the British who from 1755 to 1765 rounded up the French and shipped them back to France or one of the French colonies. Some escaped and settled in Quebec. A similar monument in Nova Scotia celebrated the first Scottish settlers from the Highland Clearances, making no mention of the French they replaced. So, we forced the French out to make room for the Crofters we were evicting from the Scottish Highlands. Makes you proud to be British."

Ed. See Ian's blog here on Horizons Unlimited!

Simon Fitzpatrick, UK, Americas, in Ecuador,

"Proper, Sensible Motorcycle Travel Advice Section. La Tina is a really easy border crossing if you're going from Peru to Ecuador. I was out of Peru in 15 minutes and into Ecuador in 60 (only because the Ecuadorian Customs computer is a Windows 95 pig-stool). There was no suggestion of a back-hander at any point. The one issue you might want to look out for is the possibility of a gun-battle between Peruvian smugglers and the Ecuadorian army. I missed one by 10 minutes.

Catamayo border crossing

Border crossing, Catamayo, Ecuador

...I stagger home at 10pm from Bar Lovely in Happyville and decide it's time for a haircut. I'm armed with an electric razor and sheer, bloody-minded, booze-enhanced willpower. I am, literally, Mad Britney, with way less cash. A tramp, if you will.

I haven't had a haircut since Margate in September last year, and my shaver is crap, so it takes 2 hours, but at last it's done. Something that looks like a flattened adult cat is left on the floor. I look in the mirror. I am Telly Savalas. Cool. Bedtime.

The next morning I blunder towards the mirror, confused, dehydrated and vaguely ashamed. Oh goodness. I am Telly Savalas, but as he would look now if you dug him up and punched him in what used to be his face."

Fitzpatrick post haircut

Telly Fitzpatrick?

Ed. See lots of pics and very funny stories on Simon's blog here on Horizons Unlimited! Warning, some profanity!

Laura Bennitt, UK, in Croatia, Honda Transalp 650,

"Once the weather finally cooled down, I set about exploring Split. It is very similar to Dubrovnik, Kotor, and all the other old towns along the coast - a pedestrianised city centre with tiny winding alleys and cobbles slippery as the fish sold in every restaurant. Split does have a bell-tower as well though, so you can peer down on the muddle from above.

Roman ruins - Salona

Roman ruins - Salona

Next day was supposed to be very cultured. I stopped off in Solin and wandered round its extensive Roman ruins. A hippy appeared out of nowhere and started singing the Cranberries to the tune of a small guitar, which combined with the already intense heat to make me feel oddly detached from my surroundings. The information boards around the site include computer reconstructions of how things would have looked - but there are no people in them. The reason these places fascinate, the reason they catch our imagination, is that people once lived there, saw these temples and streets the way we would see our local church or high street. People so very like us, yet so different we can't begin to put ourselves in their shoes.

Kravnice waterfalls.

Kravnice waterfalls

Between Split and Trogir supposedly lie a string of castles, which were next on my list. I rode through a lot of villages with 'Kastel' in their name, but not a fortress in sight, so I carried on to my intended final destination for the day, Krka National Park. I wasn't quite sure what I'd find there, but dutifully followed the signs, and to my horror ended up in a packed car park surrounded by garish cafes and tacky souvenir stalls. The price list shamelessly proclaimed that admission in summer is three times the winter price. If I decided to visit, I could be bussed to some waterfalls for €13. Up the river is an island, where a monastery houses an old illustrated copy of Aesop's fables, which I really wanted to see. To get there by boat, with only half an hour on the island, would cost a further €14. If, as planned, I wanted to camp overnight then walk the next day, I would have to buy yet another €13 ticket. At that point I realised I genuinely disliked Croatia. It's the perfect example of what happens when greed and capitalism get hold of a beautiful place. Everywhere else since I left Austria, people have wanted to show me their country, to make sure I didn't miss anything worth seeing. Here, they're not interested in people any more, only in milking the tourist cash-cow.

So I left. had I been nearer the border, I might have left Croatia altogether. Instead, I compromised and went to Murter, where I hoped to be able to kayak in the Kornati National Park archipelago. After many enquiries I realised this wouldn't be possible, and that if I wanted to see the islands I'd have to take a boat tour. Luckily, my hunt for a kayak had led me away from the main tour operators, and my instructions on booking were 'look for the smallest boat'! Where others were packed with a hundred people or more, ours had fewer than twenty people on it.

I became even more bemused by Croatia's idea of a national park, when the captain explained that all the islands in Kornati are privately owned by twenty or so families, his own among them. We stopped on 'his' island, a tiny place with a picture-perfect beach, a restaurant, and not much else. After a brief swim, I left the rest of the group sunning themselves and climbed the hill next to the beach. Then the one behind it. You can only really appreciate the archipelago from above: mostly bare islands lie scattered haphazardly in a sea by turns deep blue and pale turquoise, depending on its depth."

Ed. See Laura's blog here on Horizons Unlimited!

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Carol and Ken Duval, Australia, RTW (again), in Brazil,

"...While we were enjoying our time in Parati we received an email from another motorcycle traveler who had suffered the square wheel syndrome after hitting a large square pothole (man made) due for a repair job. Several spokes were broken and she was now waiting in the small village of Lencois for the repair to be completed in Salvador. Cecilia (Swiss) rides a weathered R100GSPD and her reputation preceded her as we had heard from other travelers of her adventures and problems experienced in South America. Cecilia sent us an email saying things had gone a little astray and she had been waiting in Lencois for almost six weeks.

Cecilia in Lencois, near Salvador

Adjusting our planned schedule we headed to Lencois to see if we could give some assistance and also there was the chance we could have a riding companion to Belem should the work be completed as she was also heading in that direction. Lencois looked like a two to three day ride from Belo Horizonte.

...We arrived the day Cecilia's wheel arrived back in town after she had bused to Salvador to collect it. We road with her on a test ride and noticed the wheel was still severely buckled. The decision was made to head to Salvador and try to fix the problem there as we had been in contact with the XT600 Clube and they were confident the problem could be fixed.

...There is quite a blend of races in Salvador and the African culture plays a significant role in this city as well as providing many of the tourist attractions.

Nice outfits - Salvador, Brazil

Food is also very different here; in fact it varies a lot from state to state in Brazil. The weather in Salvador was wet and dry alternating wildly from one hour to the next. We often got caught in torrential downpours followed by a baking sun."

Gold in the Cathedral, Salvador

Gold in the Cathedral, Salvador

Ed. See all Ken and Carol's stories and great pics on their blog here on Horizons Unlimited!

Andy Berwick and Maya Vermeer, in Peru, BMW R100GS+sidecar,

"We are in the middle of the drug growing area, but we don't have any problems. Everybody is just so surprised to see a sidecar, something they have never seen before. The Lonely Planet says this is a no go area, but we think that is wrong, we don't feel unsafe here at all, but the roads are in a unbelievable bad condition, not able to transport back packers easily.

Sidecar on bad roads

The days of riding are long, the jungle is beautiful, but not too hot. The people are friendly. We move slowly, the mud is deep in places...

Mountain pass, Peru

Mountain pass, Peru

My bra is in fourth gear, I bounce around and all the stuff in the sidecar is bouncing with me. I get tired. At night we stay in a room without windows, it's raining all night and the mosquitos are attacking us continuously. The cockcrow never stops impressing the ladies, so the next morning, after a sleepless night, we promise each other that we never will sleep in the same bed, in the same room again and for sure not in the same hotel.

As I said, it rained all night, but there is no water to flush the toilet or to wash ourselves. I saw the woman who owned this place taking the lice out of her daughters hair, I didn't have the guts to shake hands when we said goodbye...

Canoe ferry

Canoe ferry

...Andy impresses me by riding the bike over a very small and damaged wooden bridge. He does that again when we have to take a ferry, which is made of two big canoes and planks. The tracks are still stony and if I was a banana I would have ended up as a milk shake."

Ed. Read Andy and Maya's stories here on Horizons Unlimited!

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Visit the Motorrad Elektrik website for more info!Motorrad Elektrik has been offering the best in electrical parts for classic and modern BMW's for over 11 years. From 12 volt conversion for /2 to better than stock replacement parts for your late model 'R' or 'K', we've got you covered. Specialty parts for 'hardening' the charging and ignition systems for world-travelling Airhead GS's. Riders like Bob Higdon, Dr. Gregory Frazier, Grant Johnson and hundreds of others depend on Motorrad Elektrik components as they wander the globe.

Our Omega system has solved the charging problems for 1970-95 Boxers with 400 Watts Output, and our Nippon Denso starter is the perfect cure for Valeo syndrome. NOTE: Omega has been upgraded - now even more power!

Grant says: "The Omega system is simply a must-do for all airheads" (And I just got the starter too!)

Annette Pearson, London, UK, in Ecuador,

"Lots of people ask me if I get lonely riding by myself. But always when I need it the most I meet really nice people like the Austrian girls who were on my whale watching trip as well as meeting up again with Myles from Ireland who I first met in Honduras. Finding this poem by Bryce Courtney (who wrote the Power of One) helped me make a living changing decision years ago. Actually the path sounds a lot like some of the roads I have ridden.

'Dare your genius to walk the wildest unknown way. Go where you've never been before. Dream up a destination, a path to follow, a wildest unknown way, over rocks and scrag, across high hills where the winds bite cold with malice, through deep mysterious valleys where the wild things roar and echo and rumble and stamp and hiss great clouds of steam from their terrible hugging ways.

Dream the impossible dream and start walking towards it. On the way you'll be beaten up, chewed, spat out, mauled, ripped apart, given up for lost. Quite soon you'll learn what it feels like to be beaten up, chewed, spat out, mauled, ripped apart and given up for lost.

This is called 'experience' and it's very, very valuable in life, because what you mostly learn from it is that you were more afraid of what might happen that what did happen. Most successful outcomes are achieved by calling a series of conventional bluffs.

One bright sunny morning you'll discover that the wild and unknown way you took is carpeted with moss and strewn with tiny flowers. It has become a familiar path, a well trodden direction which has put you miles ahead of anyone else and much, much closer to achieving your once impossible dream.'

Annette Pearson

...Rather than head south and catch up with the few other bikers I have met I have decided to go to the coast as I have been told that the whales are jumping out of the water and really wanted to see it. It was a hard decision as I would really like to ride with someone else for a while.

When I asked Oisin (an Irish bloke I met in Anchorage who rode from Alaska to Argentina) how his trip was going he said it was all ups and downs. Then I had one of those days. I slept in, my laptop wasn’t working and I couldn’t find my bike keys. I finally got on the road and I was stopped by the police and for the second time on my trip they asked to search my panniers (which meant taking all my bags off). The police told me that my intended route had bad roads and was unsafe. So I had to go almost back to Quito which was annoying. Then I did probably my best of riding along a beautiful road winding through these huge hills. But overall it took me 13 hours to ride to the coast including almost running out of petrol as the two petrol stations I passed had no gas so I ended up buying some off this young boy. I hope those whales are worth it!"

Erdem Yucel, Turkey/USA, RTW, in Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan, Suzuki V-Strom 1000,

"There have probably been two or three other times I wrote about topping-up my best biking route throughout this journey. Well, it happened again. The road to Bishkek from Tashkomur is absolutely the best one so far. It climbs up to the top of the mountains where you ride so close to the clouds. It usually rains if it's not snowing. The plateaus in between are full of yurts and herds of horse scattered around. Road conditions are perfect. Lakes and rivers originating from the nearby glaciers have an unbelievable illuminated turquoise color to them. You see horses courting each other and mares feeding their offspring under sublime rainbows. Water is springing from every crack on the steep mountain hills. Everything is so ridiculously beautiful, even my camera couldn't take it and broke down.

Glacier lake between the mountains

Glacier lake between the mountains

...DorDoi is the biggest bazaar in Central Asia. The most unique aspect of it is that it's made of shipping containers. Hundreds of them… It looks as if a transatlantic container ship fell from the sky in the middle of Asia. There are sections divided into types of goods and origins of goods. You can find anything here as long as you can find the container it's being sold in... It was amazing to walk through the alleyways and get lost in the vastness of the place.


Dor Doi bazaar, Kyrgyzstan

very large motorcycle

Biker bar in Kazakhstan

Ed. Check out Erdem's site for lots of good pics and video as well as really good writing!

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Murray and Joyce Castle, Canada, in Brazil, on Katie & the Bumblebee,

"...Sometimes, well OK, on rare occasion, an innocent event provides an unexpected Ah-Hah Moment. Our innocent event starts out as a need to repair the steering head bearing and ignition circuit on the Chicitita. An internet search reveals a BMW dealer in Belo Horizonte. In two days we are there. Luckily, like looking for a needle in a haystack, in this case a haystack of three million people, we find Euroville BMW on first try. No sooner have we explained the mechanical problems to attentive staff than boom, the Chicitita is wheeled into the shop, up on the mechanic's lift and being fixed. We get an immediate good feeling about this BMW auto and bike dealership and the folks here.

The Ah-Hah! moment arrives with two new BMW motorcycles from the factory. Still in their crates, the new bikes pass by as we stand visiting in the shop. We think, hey, those are good crates....we want to ship our bikes to Texas soon - hey, wonder if we could crate and ship our bikes right here from Euroville? To communicate important questions like, can you fix the bike; how long will it take; can we ship our bikes from here; can you recommend a logistics agent; etc, etc, we need a translator. Up steps Danielle Zubeu, Euroville receptionist and totally fluent in Portuguese and English. As a young girl she spent several years in the USA. Over the next week we utilize the translation skills of this intelligent and personable woman a number of times. Thank you Danielle, estamos muito obrigado a vocês.

Chicitita is ready the next morning. Good news but not as good as what Cassius Nunes, Gerente Comercial, tells us next. He confirms, much to our delight, that yes, Euroville can crate and ready our bikes as air cargo; and yes, he can introduce us to a local shipping agent. Cassius recommends we come back in a couple of days to start the process. In the meantime, why don't we check out nearby Ouro Preto? Only 2 hours drive away, the former capital of the state of Minas Gerais is famous for its baroque architecture and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We agree it's a must-see.

Joyce Castle in Ouro Preto

Joyce in Ouro Prêto

Ouro Prêto, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, was capital of the state of Minas Gerais from 1822 until 1897, when the needs of government outgrew this opulent berg wedged in a narrow valley. We approach the city by angling down a mountainside, arriving just above the city centre. We stop and look down. From here it looks like 90% of the streets are black diamond runs made from cobblestone.

Tightly packed tile-roofed buildings, like an over-eager crowd, squeeze in too closely both sides of the streets. Motorcycles and cobblestones are not friends. Cobblestone, especially made from soapstone, and rain are not friends. We could have fun getting back out of here.

Crating Bumblebee

Crating the bike at Euroville

Leaving Ouro Prêto in late afternoon, we ride toward our rendezvous with Euroville tomorrow to begin the process of shipping ourselves and motorcycles home."

Ed. See Murray and Joyce's blog here on Horizons Unlimited!

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Nathan Thompson and Akiko Nishikura, Taking the slow road round the world, on the cheap, on a postie-bike... 2-up, in India,

"We have been in Jaisalmer for the last couple of days. Its the biggest city we have been in since Chennai but actually is nice to ride around in. Lots of little bazaars and back streets, plenty of Chai-Whallas and street stalls, at first we were kind of relieved to see such luxurious trappings.

Street wildlife also appreciative of the abundance of Jaisalmeri wealth/generosity. Cows and dogs roaming the streets here seem fatter and happier than in other parts.

Sacred cow - Jaisalmer

Sacred cow - Jaisalmer

Damn hot though.

We went out to see Tilon-Ki-Pol too, otherwise known as 'Prostitute's Gate'

Prostitute's Gate - Jaisalmer, India

Prostitute's Gate - Jaisalmer, India

In 1658 while the King was away doing what kings do, his favorite concubine, Tilon had the gusto to build a monument to herself just outside the fort walls on the banks of Gadi Sagar Lake, a place she liked very much. When the King returned he threatened to knock it down but Tilon quickly built a Temple to Krishna on top of her gate rendering it safe from the kings aggressive threats. Unfortunately it also ended Tilon's hopes of spending cool relaxing days at the lake. Women are forbidden to walk over, under or through Krishna Temples.

The main reason tourists come to Jaisalmer is for the Camel Safaris. On every corner there is a shop selling 1-4 day all inclusive packages to get you, oh wealthy foreigner, both more acquainted with these large animals and closer to the 'nature' seen in these parts.

We were unable to meet our camels before paying our money so we decided to head out into the desert to look for some friendly camels of our own, sans the greedy middle man. It proved very easy as the Sand Dunes just 40kms outside Jaisalmer are covered with camel-wallahs renting, Indian tourists flogging and plastic bottles a-rolling.

Not a particularly savoury situation but as we were not sold on spending the time and money for an overnight 'Safari' we decided to rent a couple for an hour and see if it was for us...

Camel ride

Camel ride

Unanimously it wasn't. The camels didn't seem to be too happy and our rear ends just couldn't make the needed adjustments. Perhaps we will try it when we reach the Sahara on a real Arabian Beast..."

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up to top of pagespacerBooks

Motorcycle Therapy, by Jeremy Kroeker.

Motorcycle Therapy, by Jeremy Kroeker

From the Canadian Rockies to the Panamanian Jungle, Motorcycle Therapy rumbles with comic adventure as two men, fleeing failed relationships, test the limits of their motorcycles and their friendship. Get it here!

Red Tape and White Knuckles: One Woman's Motorcycle Adventure Through Africa

Lois' new adventures in Africa!

"Alone. No support vehicles, no fancy GPS and no satellite phone. Leaving from London, finishing in Cape Town - and the small matter of tackling the Sahara, war-torn Angola and the Congo Basin along the way - this feisty independent woman's grand trek through the Dark Continent of Africa is the definitive motorcycling adventure." Get it here!

Distant Suns, by Sam Manicom

Adventure in the vastness of Africa and South America

"Sam Manicom's dynamic third book transports you to Southern Africa, South and Central America in an action-packed three year voyage of discovery... a thought-provoking mix of scrapes and encounters with people which illuminate some moments of true darkness... acute observations on everything from human behaviour, to remote and stunning locations. Distant Suns grabs you, enthrals you and spits you out as a convert to the dream of overlanding these amazing continents." Buy direct from Sam here!

Adventure Motorbiking Handbook.

Adventure Motorcycling Handbook, by Chris Scott

Into the Den of the Bear and the Lair of the Dragon on a Motorcycle.

Into the Den of the Bear and the Lair of the Dragon on a Motorcycle. Werner, 66, was born in Germany and worked in Canada until his retirement. He has authored a number of books since getting bit by the motorcycle travel bug, including

-8 Around the Americas by Motorcycle,
-Into the Den of the Bear and the Lair of the Dragon on a Motorcycle
, and
-Africa Against the Clock on a Motorcycle
All his books are available directly from Werner. Tell him we sent you and get US$5.00 off the regular US$20 price!

For details on his books see here.

video cover picture

The Producers of Mondo Enduro present Terra Circa, Around the World by Motorcycle (6 x 20 minute episodes).

Regular readers of this newsletter will remember Terra Circa's adventures around the world, and especially the Zilov Gap. Now's your chance to see it in video. Austin Vince is a very funny guy and the video is hilarious, as he leads his intrepid crew through misadventure after misadventure.

"This is adventure motorcycling" says Chris Scott, who wrote the book, so he ought to know!

Contact Aimimage for the PAL video or all format DVD. Don't forget to tell them you heard about it on HU, we'll make a bit, and it won't cost you any more.

Looking for a travel book for someone special?

Go to our Books pages, where we have listed some of the best motorcycle travel books, as well as a number of BMW books, general motorcycle books, and travel guides.

There's links to Amazon USA, Amazon UK, Amazon Canada, and Amazon Deutschland, so no matter where you are - you can order books at great prices, and we'll make a dollar or a pound or a Euro, which goes a very little way to supporting this e-zine.

There's also links to search Amazon sites for all their products, books, CDs etc., and yes, we get a tiny piece of that too. We really appreciate it when you start your book search from our website. Thanks for the support!

NOTE: If you buy a book starting with one of our links below, we get a little bit to help support the website!

buy from Amazon USA buy from Amazon Deutschland Shop at Amazon Canada

Book suggestions please!

If you have a book or want a book that you think other travellers would be interested in please let me know and I'll put it on the site. Thanks, Grant

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ISSN 1703-1397 Horizons Unlimited Motorcycle Travellers' E-zine - Copyright 1999-2009, Horizons Unlimited and Grant and Susan Johnson. All rights reserved.

Redistribution - sending it on to friends is allowed, indeed encouraged, but other than the following requirements, only with permission. You may forward copies of the Horizons Unlimited Motorcycle Travellers' e-zine by forwarding it yourself by hand. You must forward the issue in its entirety, no fee may be involved. Please suggest they Subscribe!

Legal gibberish: (particularly for those in countries that have more lawyers in one town, just for instance, New York, not to name any names, than some whole countries, as another example, Japan. Again, not naming anybody specifically you understand) Recommendations are based on positive or negative experiences of somebody, somewhere. Your mileage (kilometrage if you insist) may vary. We are not responsible in any way for any product or service mentioned, and do not warrant any such mentioned product or service, and are not responsible for any bad things that may befall you. You are responsible for yourself! Act accordingly. We check all links and information given as close as possible to publication, and all info is correct as best we can determine at that time.


Motorcycle Rental, hiring Honda's Transalp for touring Argentina and Chile. Ride across the Andes, from the Atlantic Ocean to the Pacific, lakes, deserts, salt pans, waterfalls, beaches, rain forests, glaciers...

Motocare Argentina

Motorcycle Therapy, by Jeremy Kroeker.

Motorcycle Therapy, by Jeremy Kroeker

From the Canadian Rockies to the Panamanian Jungle, Motorcycle Therapy rumbles with comic adventure as two men, fleeing failed relationships, test the limits of their motorcycles and their friendship. Get it here!

Achievable Dream DVD series - The Motorcycle Adventure Travel Guide - DVD1 - Get Ready!

Get the Achievable Dream DVD's NOW and learn how YOU can hit the road!

Achievable Dream DVD series - The Motorcycle Adventure Travel Guide - DVD4 - Ladies on the Loose! Get it now!

up to top of pagespacerShorts...

Peter and Kay Forwood, Australia, around the world since 1996, 193 countries two-up on Harley Davidson, in the UK,

"With last nights rabbits stewing on the stove for dinner, and after a relaxed morning, we all headed out to the Long Meg stone circle for a bit of history and peace. Helen described the place for us, dating back to a similar time to Stonehenge, the seventy odd stones arranged as a meeting place, also oriented towards the summer solstice. Giving the rabbits a slightly better chance we took the gun out for an afternoon shoot, another four rabbits, frozen for a later meal, while we enjoyed last night's rabbits in a stew with a few ales and wine.

A call to Paul, the workshop manager at Thames Valley Harley-Davidson, the dealer who will be repairing our engine, and he agreed to collect the old engine from Full Bore Motorcycles, pull it apart and see what work is necessary. So we can now relax on that score.

11903 feet high, someone must have changed the sign??

11903 feet high, someone must have changed the sign??

It was no surprise and little consolation to hear that last July in the UK was the wettest for over 100 years, and the way August is going it will likely be the same. Heavy rain again this morning delayed our departure till 1pm with the forecast clearing in the afternoon. We had booked accommodation, again over the internet, again reasonable with the travelling public (both business and tourist) numbers down. 300km's to Ayr via Stranraer, and we were now in Scotland. The coast road between Stranraer and Ayr was spectacular in the afternoon sunshine, as we were still enjoying the smooth running of the new engine in the motorcycle. "

Horizons Unlimited is proud to host Peter and Kay's complete RTW story and pictures here!

Mark Hammond, USA, from Morocco to Cape Town, in Gabon, Suzuki DR650,

"...It rained hard the night before. We had lodged in Ndende, Gabon. It was a tiny town with a single but decent hotel called Le Barbecue, 30 miles from the Congo border. In late afternoon, I marveled at a colossal cumulonimbus storm cloud that sprouted like a mushroom in the tungsten blue sky of the southern horizon.

Monstrous African Thunderstorm

By 8 p.m., the storm had arrived. It was a monstrous African thunderstorm, theatrical in scope and as riveting as an Oscar-winning film. Lightning flashed behind the low clouds and thunder cracked like cannons. The rain pelted down furiously, and I stood outside my motel-style room and listened to the staccato drumming of raindrops in the sheet metal awning above me and watched as Mother Africa turned the yard into a muddy swamp."

Ed. Mark's got more great stories and pics on his blog.

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Malawi, Mozambique, Botswana, Namibia, Zambia and South Africa - A truly memorable African Adventure!

Simon Roberts, UK, The Road to Kathmandu - the comic strip - in Nepal!

"...'You must return to Delhi for a new Visa...' the customs official calmly announced. ' Your Visa is out of date'. 'Or you can make a small extra payment', said his identical twin.

A 'small' payment was infinitely more appealing than a ride back to the offices of Delhi so it was with some relief that I crossed into Nepal. So far so good, but now which way?

You are here sign - Nepal

You are here

In truth, my visa had run out the day before but I'd arrived at the border at Sunauli at night and, not wanting to cross into Nepal in the dark, had decided to return the following morning.

I'd booked into a rough 'hotel' nearby and was duly asphyxiated by the exhaust fumes from their generator which chugged and coughed beneath my window through the night. Oh for some fresh Himalayan air..."

Click on the picture to see the rest of the story!

Ed. See Simon's 'Road to Kathmandu' comic strip on Horizons Unlimited.

Alastair Todd, Round the World, in Korea,

"...A couple of days in Seoul, a few days in Tokyo, 5 days in Vancouver. It will resume when I (hopefully) pick up the bike in Vancouver and get back on the road.

But I couldn't resist posting this picture of a bike courier, Seoul-style. And I thought I was carrying a lot of stuff!

Bike courier in Seoul

Bike courier in Seoul

Notice how, even with a load like that, he's still filtering past the traffic. Spectacular!

Crating the bike

Crating the bike

It's amazing watching the crating guys hand build made to measure crates for each bike, but I wish they'd do it faster."

Xander and Tam Kabat, UK, in Switzerland and France,

On the morning we left Zurich, Kerstin remembered that the H.R. Giger Museum lay in the direction we were heading. Giger is the creator of the Alien movie monster and is Xander's favourite artist. The lure of seeing a museum set up by the painter himself was too much to pass, and it turned out the location was very worth visiting itself - Gruyeres, home of the cheese, with a walled chateau housing museums and shops and nestled under part of the Alps. The museum was fantastic, and next to it was a Giger-designed bar,

Giger-designed bar

where we couldn't resist spending more money for hot drinks as the rain plummeted down and a massive thunderstorm took place!

House in France.

House in France

Darius and Jane Skrzypiec, RTW 2008-2011, in Pakistan, Africa Twin,

"...Riding the first 600km from Islamabad to Gilgit is more of a pain than pleasure. The KKH is in a desolate state making us swerve between the potholes all the way. There is no view of any importance and the traffic is just as bad as it could get. We're not experiencing any kids throwing stones at us or trying to hit us with sticks but the conservative region of Indus Kohistan isn't really a pleasant place for tourists to stop over."

Finally on the Karakoram Highway

Finally on the KKH

Long way to Europe

Long way to Europe

Ed. Not many words but lots of pics on Darius and Jane's trip in their blog here on Horizons Unlimited.

MedjetAssist is an air medical evacuation and consultation membership program and is HIGHLY recommended by us and many others for all travellers. The regular MedjetAssist program is for citizens or residents of the US, Mexico and Canada, and gives hospital of choice protection virtually anywhere in the world and air evacuation as needed. (See below for more on the Foreign National Plan) Click the logo below for US, Mexico and Canada citizens to find out more. (NOTE: It's still in progress for the final HU version, but you can get MedjetAssist now!)

Get MedjetAssist for your next trip!

For OTHER nationalities it is currently a little more complicated. There IS a Foreign National Plan, but you can't enroll online. It's a faxable enrolment and subject to underwriting approval. The rates are the same, but transport is restricted to 'back to home country - hospital of choice' rather than 'anywhere in the world - hospital of choice'. We are working on improving that, but at least it IS available! Go here to contact MedjetAssist and inquire about the Foreign National Plan. Be sure to mention Horizons Unlimited.

Michael Paull adds his endorsement of MedJet (and he DID use their services - twice!):

"...After an additional three days in Beijing, I was deemed stable enough for air evacuation back to the University of Washington Medical Center in Seattle, WA, in the company of my wife Aillene (who had flown in from Japan), and an air transport trauma nurse provided by the company that I had procured medical evacuation insurance from, MEDJET Assistance - without doubt, the best insurance coverage I have ever purchased in my life. A small plug here - these people were remarkable... If there was ever a better case for '...don't leave home without it.', MEDJET Assistance is at the top of my checklist, no matter where I travel (and I hope to do a LOT more)."

Note: Per the Medjet Assistance site: "...a medical transport between Europe and America can run more than $35,000. Middle East and South American flights range from $60,000 to $80,000. Transport from Asia often exceeds $100,000." Sounds like $205.00 for a single is pretty cheap insurance!

Mark and Maggie Allenspach, Australia to Switzerland, in Iran, BMW 1150 GS,

Market - Shiraz

Market - Shiraz

"...One of the problems in Iran is the food. Menu choices are very limited, even though there is all this fresh vegetable and fruit available on the markets, all we can get is Chicken Kebab, Chicken Kebab with rice, rice with Kebab and so on, it gets a bit boring after a while.

The good thing in Iran is the petrol price, we are paying about 55 cents a litre and thats the tourist price, the locals only pay about 14 cents a litre.

From Esfahan we go north to the coast of the Caspian Sea and a town called Anzali, the water looks great, but in Iran the ladies are not allowed to swim in public places so none of us go in to the water.

From Anzali we travel along the coast to Astara and then head inland to Tabriz and on to the Turkish border."

Ed. See Mark and Maggie's blog here on Horizons Unlimited!

Distant Suns

by Sam Manicom
Distant Suns by Sam Manicom.

Sam Manicom's dynamic third book transports you to Southern Africa, South and Central America in an action-packed three year voyage of discovery... a thought-provoking mix of scrapes and encounters with people which illuminate some moments of true darkness... acute observations on everything from human behaviour, to remote and stunning locations. Distant Suns grabs you, enthrals you and spits you out as a convert to the dream of overlanding these amazing continents.'


"It's been a pleasure to read as it makes me feel as if I'm there seeing the people and landscape that Sam describes. He has a gift for painting pictures with words, which is rare amongst long-distance riders… In summary, a damn good read, not to be missed." Dave - BMW Club Journal

"…as the book progressed and the story unravelled, it developed into a truly involving and enthralling read. Distant Suns doesn't just document the journey, Sam also describes cultural differences, traditions and lifestyles of the various countries they cross, whilst painting a vivid picture of the terrain they cross… A really great read that'll doubtless give you itchy feet…" TBM - Trail Bike Magazine

"Distant Suns' is based on what Sam acknowledges are Birgit's wonderfully descriptive diaries. The result is a strangely powerful combination of Sam's already masterful writing with the added perspectives of a travelling companion who is both in-tune and adding a different melody line to the rhythm of their journey together." Nich Brown - The Road Magazine

Signed copies available directly from the Author here.
Order your copy now!


Peter Hendricks, in Kupang, Indonesia,

"July 2009: We have reached Timor, the last island of our Indonesia trip. The bikes will stay here while we fly back to Bangkok, where Su will apply for German and NZ visas, so we can visit my parents. All going to plan we should be back at the end of August to continue to Timor Leste. We haven't decided yet whether we will travel to Australia.

...(In Java) We try to ride along the South coast as much as possible. This makes for a much longer distance, but nice scenery. At a lunch stop we meet a nice bunch of bikers from Jakarta. To my surprise two of the women also ride.

At a lunch stop we meet a nice bunch of bikers from Jakarta. To my surprise two of the women also ride."

Jakarta bikers

Freight hauling in Bali

Freight hauling in Bali

Rice paddies in Bali

Rice paddies in Bali

Oliver Francis, Wales, in Koh Tao, Thailand

"It's either ironic or fitting that my journey ended the same way it began. A long ride, a short night's stopover, once with my brother and once alone, and a badly timed boat crossing once from and once to an insignificant yet deeply personal island.

I've been here a month now yet a part of me still itches, still waits to leave. I know myself I am staying but how to convince that part of me that sent me out here in the first place? People here ask me 'where next?' and I don't really have an answer. The plan is still there but does it fit any more? Is it even possible? Money? Time? Desire? There are too many questions and no answers because honestly I am happy here. Why think about the future when it is now that is good? Tomorrow the only decisions I have to make are: 'Do I dive? Do I lay in my hammock? Night in or night out?' They are not hard questions and whatever the answer it is always the right one. So I lay in my hammock and as I drift off I know it is over. For now, at least, I've stopped."

Overland to India

Overland to India book by Gordon May

by Gordon May

Paperback, 21x14.8 cm 234 pages incl 8 pages of colour photographs. £9.95.


In 2008, Gordon May set off on an 8,400 mile ride from Manchester, UK, to Chennai, India, on his 1953 Royal Enfield. Despite encountering intense heat, suffering a crash in the Baluchistan desert and battling against some of the worst roads and driving standards on the planet, Gordon and his old Bullet did make it to Chennai.

In Overland to India Gordon describes how he restored his beloved motorcycle, the build up to departure, the larger-than-life characters he met and how he tackled the many challenges that came his way. He also recounts the more personal highs and lows of life on the road. Above all, Overland To India is a heart-warming book that reveals that there is much human kindness and hospitality to be found, sometimes in the most unexpected places and situations.


What I really liked about Overland to India was the sheer determination of the rider. Gordon's love of his motorcycle shone through too; he often thanks it for getting him to his various destinations along the grueling route and I liked reading about his running repairs. I felt his joy, his euphoria, at being out on the open road. I also felt his exhaustion. When Gordon suffered a crash I could almost feel those bruises and also his fear following an attempted highway robbery. What was also really striking was the generosity, friendliness and humility of many of the people he met along the way, who Gordon describes with real warmth. It's uplifting to discover that it's a welcoming world out there. Overland to India is a lesson to all of us who have a dream and want to pursue it. Inspiring. Judith Coyle


Hubert Kriegel, France, Sidecar-ing the world, in Russia,

"At Aralsk, I parked my sidecar in the house of these people who would not let me go before breakfast.

breakfast in Aralka

Breakfast in Aralsk

Ed. Check out Hubert's website for lots of great pics!

Frank Butler, Papua New Guinea, RTW, in Belize and Guatemala,

"Belize was a breath of fresh air ... literally, the wind was coming of the Caribbean Sea and it was fresh... ahhh. I changed some money with yet another friend and went to customs and immigration . 'How long ya staying ?' he says with a smile. I say 'a month', he says 'you can extend if you want to when you get to Belize City'...

I said that I would bear that in mind. I went to the customs man who had an even bigger smile and asked about the bike. He said that I could have five days transit straight away or I could have it for a month but that was more hassle. I asked what kind of hassle, he said that he would have to fill in a form, that kind of Hassle. I asked him to do his best with the form. It took about half an hour in between searching bags and answering the phone. It was as simple as that. Laid back.

By the time it was all completed it was nearly lunch-time so I started looking for something to eat. I was riding through the little town of Corozal looking for a likely spot when I looked down a street and saw the emerald green Caribbean for the first time ... I was In Love.

Corozal, Belize.

From El Rumate I headed south again and stopped at The Finca Xobela, which is a little farm that has become a travellers mecca. At the moment it is overrun with Israelis, they are fun to watch... very unselfconscious people.

Aussie Bikers in Guatemala.

At Finca Xobela I ran into a couple of young Australians who had decided to buy a couple of small bike and ride through central America, they were great, made me feel very proud ... don't know why... It was something about giving it a go..."

Book special just for Horizons Unlimited Readers!

"Into the den of the Bear and the Lair of the Dragon on a Motorcycle"
"8 Around the Americas on a Motorcycle"
"Africa Against the Clock on a Motorcycle"
"From Nordkapp to Cape York on a Motorcycle"

Werner Bausenhart has written several books on his travels around the world, and has offered them to HU readers at a great price. Tell him we sent you and get US$5.00 off the regular US$20 price!

For details on his books see here. Contact Werner now via this link to get the deal.


up to top of pagespacerHome again (temporarily) ...

Rob Jardine, UK, Melbourne to London, on Honda Transalp,

"After 7 months, 25 countries, 38,000km, 3 punctures and a few tumbles, I rolled off the Pride of Dover onto the Dover quay side...

The exact moment of landfall


After that, all that remained was the final 200 miles up to York to see my parents. And sure enough, the English weather lived up to its reputation. By the time I reached Newport Pagnell on the M1 at 8 pm, the rain was so heavy and the spray was so bad that I had to put on the high-vis vest that had not been required on the entire journey thus far...

Is that a gun, or are you just pleased to see me?

Is that a gun, or are you just pleased to see me?

So did the trip live up to expectations? Of course, it far exceeded them. I had more fun, met more interesting people, and saw more incredible sights than I could ever have imagined. And the Honda Transalp performed absolutely flawlessly - the only maintenance required was routine replacement of tyres, filters, brake pads and chain, in spite of some pretty rough treatment and a few big stacks. It was always up to the job, even though it was up in the snow at 4,800 metres one week and in the sand at 50 degrees the next. It always started first time, even though it didn't get a service for almost 40,000km - hopefully this will still be the case after I've stripped it down and rebuilt it next week...

Would I do another trip like it? Of course - in fact I'd happily do the same trip again. But hopefully the next big ride will be Argentina to Alaska - may be a few years away though... "

Paul Read, UK, back from Malaysia,

"Paused - While the website was down, due to issues outside of my control, things have taken a big change with an opportunity coming along for me to join the company building the cars for one of the new F1 Teams. I will be based just outside Oxford, developing the race engineering software again. So I will return to Malaysia in September to bring Vafa back to the UK and the trip will be 'paused', allowing me to spend more time with Abi. Maybe in a few years time together we will explore NZ and Canada - two of my dream destinations. Until then a big thank you to everyone who has supported me in any way whether by sponsoring me, hosting me or just following me on this website. Paul."

Sign - wet means wet

High tide means wet road

Support Horizons Unlimited - check out the HU Souk for jumpers / pullovers, mugs, steins, t-shirts, hats and other products with a variety of slogans!

Baby doll T-shirt - front.Check out t-shirts and other goodies at the HU Souk. Support your favorite website!Check out t-shirts and other goodies at the HU Souk. Support your favorite website!

Thanks! Grant and Susan

up to top of pagespacerTraveller's Community News...

New Communities:

We've now reached an amazing 606 Communities in 101 Countries as of August 11, 2009!

A big thanks to all those who took the first step and established the Community in their area. New Communities are too many to list!

If you are on the road, do check out the Communities - don't feel like you're imposing on people! They signed up for a Community because they want to meet travellers - that's you! You'll have a great time, so go to the Communities page and let them know you're coming. Please remember that they are volunteers and offering to help because they're great people - common courtesy helps! When you write, tell them who you are, that you're passing through, and would like to meet them. Let them know if you need anything, and I'm sure they'll help as best they can.

For details on how you can join a Community in your area, or use the Communities to get information and help, or just meet people on the road or at home, go to the Community page. Send me some photos - with captions please - and a little text and you can have a web page about your Community! A few links to web pages about your area would be useful too.

Just a reminder to all, when you Join a Community in your area, send a note to the Community introducing yourself and suggesting a meeting, or go for a ride or something. It's a good way of meeting like-minded individuals in your own town.

Become a Horizons Unlimited Contributing Member or Gold Member!

To help with the cost of creating and distributing the newsletter and running a huge website, which has been a full time job for Grant for ten years, Susan as much as she can, plus a couple of part time assistants, we gratefully accept contributions via PayPal, credit card, and cheque. Members also get additional privileges on the HUBB, such as more PM's, custom avatars, and more photo space.

Support this Newsletter by becoming a Contributing Member today, by PayPal, credit card, or cheque.

Become an HU Contributing Member!

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If you want a t-shirt or other logoed merchandise, go to the Store.

All contributions will be acknowledged and gratefully accepted. If you later decide you do want a t-shirt or other member logoed merchandise from the store, let us know and we will arrange access to the Members Private Store.

More ways to support your favourite website!

How to Link to Horizons Unlimited

Also, you can just click on any Amazon link on the site and we'll get a small commission on your purchase of any Amazon merchandise - and it won't cost you any more!

Thanks, Grant and Susan


up to top of page Subscribe!

To subscribe, or even UNsubscribe 'now why would you want to do that?' to this e-zine.

up to top of pagespacerIn Progress...

I am working on a listing of people who have ridden around the world, as well as what I call 'significant journeys' e.g. the first across Africa. Any information you may have on this topic, please let me know. Preferably e-mail me direct. I currently have information on over 800 world travellers listed, but there are many more. Have YOU done it? Let me know!

up to top of pagespacerFinal thoughts...

We hope you've enjoyed this issue, and do please let us know your thoughts. It's your newsletter, so tell us what you want to know about!

It is not the unknown, but the fear of it, that prevents us from doing what we want...

We'd like to think that Horizons Unlimited; the website, the HUBB, the Communities and this newsletter help to push back the fear through knowledge and connecting with others, and teach all of us about the world and it's wonderful people.

See you on the road!

Grant and Susan Johnson

Live the dream! at:

Riding the globe...

All text and photographs are copyright © Grant and Susan Johnson and their respective authors or creators, 1987-2009.
All Rights Reserved.

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