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Yamaha XT 600 personalization
Hey there!
My name is Tadas and I'm from Lithuania. I got my XT 600 last spring and I fell in love with it. The frame and all other parts had rust, scrapes, etc., engine had some corrosion too. So for the whole year I wanted to make it nice again. I was hoping for all the work on it to go quicker, but as always, it takes more than you expect. First things I did to it were usual maintenance: changed air/oil filters and oil. Then I got this sweet carbon fiber exhaust. The difference in power compared to stock was huge. And, if I remember correctly, the carbon fiber exhaust weighs 0.5kg, and stock 5.5kg (or 7.5kg?). Yamaha XT 600 3TB with Carbon Fiber Yoshimura Exhaust - YouTube Then, after driving for a few times at night I got disappointed about the lighting of a regular halogen bulb (Philips) and I decided to get a Bi-Xenon kit for it. Improvement was immense! Yamaha XT 600 3TB Bi Xenon Conversion 55W 6000K - YouTube September last year I got Acerbis gas tank. My original gas tank had it's left fairing missing, and the tank itself was pretty small. Acerbis tank was pretty sun-faded and spray painted black, to this spring I had to scrape all the paint and brittle plastic (~1mm thick) off and sand it to perfection. As I was disassembling the bike I found a power limiter: a thin sheet metal plate with smaller hole on the right side between cylinder and carburetor's rubber fitting. So that went to trash! The rubbers themselves were in very poor condition so I ordered new ones. I've done the exhaust header modification as one guy on Youtube did: YAMAHA 600 XT modif - YouTube New brake pads also will be fitted. As will new wiring harness, because old one was so bad that I threw it away. Some wires were too tight, some were too loose, some were connected by a person who doesn't know who is he doing. It was a total mess, looked like a spiderweb. As the bike itself is 1993, the engine is newer, 1997, and in 1993 bike there's no connections for the starter motor and switches. I was preparing for that: bought another throttle housing that is separate from ignition switch, and bought a 2009 Yamaha R6 ignition switch/starter switch assembly. Looks awesome, not outdated like original XT600E switch. Also bought a clutch switch for that. After disassembly I sandblasted almost all metal parts, sprayed on epoxy primer, following by black paint. The engine (not including the cylinder and header) got also sandblasted, coat of epoxy primer, silver metallic paint and clear-coat. Plastics were covered in primer for plastics, now awaiting good weather to cover in primer them again after filler/sanding, and paint it in dark metallic green. Dark metallic green will go on all plastic parts + front forks. I'm anxious to see how it looks at the end. Hope that will be in next two weeks. |
Hey there!
Glad to see you came here! :thumbup1: As you can see there is a lot of information here on the forum! So, what made you replace the engine for a 1997 model? If you could post some pictures of your rebuild It would be awesome! Vando beer |
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I bought the bike like that, it was already replaced in Germany (where it was imported from). I was thinking that the engine was 1995, but then before sandblasting I found the date (1997) scraped in the paint at the place there rear swingarm's axle go through the engine, so I suppose it's 1997, but I'd be glad to verify it by engine number.
As far as I know the old engine had some electrical failure and no one bothered to fix it and just swapped the engines. Sorry for the lack of pictures, I was uploading when I made the topic, but after I got error I hadn't got the time to upload them again, so I'll do that now :innocent: |
Hey!
Nice pictures! :) I wish the painter who painted mine would go stick his paint gun up his arse for the job he did on my bike XT... :censored: From pictures, the engine you have is from either a XT600 (ténere) OR just the Left hand side engine cover from a Ténere engine...but I don't know if the engine cover compatible with the XT600E's so it's probably the whole engine :) Maybe that electrical problem it had was the stator and they just bought and replaced the LHS engine cover? here is a picture from google for a XT600Z (ténere), look at the engine cover: http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/98/dsc05232h.jpg |
I do all the work myself, so only person I could blame is me, haha!
Nope, they had swapped the engine. But I admit I am a bit puzzled over the engine. 1. The bike itself was not supposed to have a starter. No starter button, no wiring for it, and the bike is too early for starter. 2. The engine number begins with 3TB. 3. The engine has both kick-starter and electric starter. 4. As far as I know if you replace LHS engine cover for 1993 engine you still won't be able to fit electric starter. 5. The XT600K engine has the engine cover just like mine does, so it can be not only from Ténere. 6. Why there was 1997 scraped in the engine's paint? Not a real proof, but... I know 1997 model is a bit different. |
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Late update:
five days ago painted plastics black three days ago painted them (+ front fork) dark metallic green color bier in the pictures the color is a bit lighter, actually it's deeper green, changing into almost black at a bend. Today was the first day of assembly. And here's the progress. Oh, and the fork seals were changed with new ones, and filled with new oil (the old fork oil was so stinky!). New carb-cylinder intake rubbers fitted. While trying to fit the engine to the frame the engine's paint was scratched :crying: anyway, I'm planning to do the engine rebuild someday, and then I'll fix that, but I think it won't be soon, as the engine runs great for now. |
The bike is fully assembled during today - the second day of assembly.
The only problem is now, that there's no spark... NO IDEA why. Is it hard to fry CDI unit or generator? How to check CDI, generator (if possible) and ignition coil? :confused1: |
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I've spent all day searching for a problem, but unsuccessfully.
All I know now is that the ignition coil doesn't get a positive charge to it, only ground. Does anyone have a diagram where I could see how a positive (+) charge is coming from battery to ignition coil? I need to see where the circuit is between a positive connector at ignition coil and...? I cannot find it anywhere in wires/connectors! I may (possibly) somehow bypass it if I knew where it should be. It's an 11 wire CDI unit (like diagram attached). I don't know how to check my CDI, and I would hate to spend 200$ for a new one if I don't really need it... Positive from battery is connected just as in the diagram attached: one wire goes to ignition key, another to relay-regulator for battery charging, and the positive then comes with all three white wires from relay-regulator to the engine. And I can't find a positive coming from the engine to a CDI. So not sure if it's the CDI or something in the engine... |
Do you have Electric start on your bike?
If you do, You've got the wrong wiring diagram! Plus.. Does your ignition coil have two prongs or only one? Ignition coil with two prongs + E-start: http://img843.imageshack.us/img843/1...fik3tbedit.jpg The positive is the Orange cable that goes to the TCI (1) to the ignition coil back!! One more question.. what exactly happens on the bike when you try to start it? do you hear any noises, any clicks anything? Vando beer |
Thanks for a quick reply!
Unfortunately, I do have a right diagram... Yes, the engine has electric starter, but it is not compatible with the wiring and the bike itself (there was no starter button, no clutch switch, no connectors for them in the wiring). Because the engine is newer than the bike. The CDI (or TCI, whatever it is..) has connectors exactly like in my diagram: two sockets (one with 2 and another with 3 wires) and 6 other wires that are "solo". So 11 wires total coming out of CDI. CDI connectors matches the engine connectors and the bike was previously running (same engine, same CDI). There might something happened during my attempt to fix the wiring loom that was completely trashed, and now the wiring loom is new, fits perfectly, everything works, except for the damn spark! Ignition coil has two connections. And I have the positive orange wire. The only thing is that the orange (positive) wire doesn't have any positive charge in it :confused1: |
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Pic. 1.: ignition coil.
Pic. 2.: three engine connectors (+ blue wire for neutral). Pic. 3.: CDI connectors. |
I'd bite my finger off and say that is surely a Tenere engine you got there..
Do any of the pictures on this site relate to your wiring? xt wiring diagrams This is one from Mezo: http://members.iinet.net.au/%7Emezo/...iagram%201.jpg Vando ;) |
Yes, there's one that matches my wiring. Site Builder
But it's the same as I have posted above. It says "XT600K_91_94_3TB" and mine got it's engine number *3TB-097266* My CDI has 11 wires, so other diagrams don't match. So anyway, my wiring fits perfectly, everything works, except for God damn spark! doh If someone, who has the same wiring in his/her's bike, could check where does the continuity go from orange wire at ignition coil I would highly appreciate it! On Monday or Tuesday I'll go to see a wiring guru, who deals with all sorts of cars (even Ferrari...) and bikes and hopefully he should be able to tell me what's wrong in just a few minutes. Hopefully... Time moves so slow when you are waiting :funmeterno: I suspect the CDI. Hopefully I'm wrong and I just need to connect some wire somewhere and that would fix it :( |
...check the CDI with a multimeter? set it on continuity and see it it beeps to any of the other terminals. Also, check for voltage drop and switch the multimeter cables from red to black and black to red while doing the same check!
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Thanks for the tip!
I was checking but didn't know what to look for, can't believe I didn't think of it before... Checked all wires coming out of CDI for continuity among them (when CDI is disconnected with all wires). There's continuity between all wires with one wire or another, as it should be I suppose, but EXCEPT for orange wire, that goes to ignition coil as positive charge. So, there's no continuity between orange and any of other cables, no matter if I connect multimeter's red or black connector to orange wire. So when I attempted to fix the old wiring loom I shortened something out, and the ignition coil heated and "spat" some dark material from inside of a crack in the ignition coil's connectors side, and I suppose it wasn't the only thing that heated up... The orange wire must have heated up too to a degree that it failed inside a CDI unit "frying" it up, and the orange wire lost continuity with the wire it supposed to have. So if the CDI is unrepairable part, because it is incased in resin, I will have to get another one. Any suggestions? :( |
And before I rush into buying one or another... Maybe someone has owned a Hyperpack CDI? Is it worth the money? Or should I just get a used one that's a third or even half of a price cheaper?
YAMAHA XT400 XT 400 XT550 XT 550 XT600 XT 600 HYPERPAK IGNITION IGNITIONS CDI | eBay |
Did you check for continuity in the actual orange cable?
Is your multimeter digital or analog? the CDI has diodes, meaning only current from one side can go thru and not back. If your multimeter is a digital one, when you touch the orange terminal on the CDI and one at least one of the other terminals on the CDI your multimeter should show you a voltage drop! IT WON'T make any continuity noise! just display some values on the multimeter display.. Either infinity: 1 OR it usually shows around .500ish voltage drop. If it shows 1 on the display, switch the wires (where you had the black switch with the red and vice-versa) and it should be around .500ish. That means that that specific diode is working good! If ya need help I'll add some pictures later tonight as an example.. STILL you haven't told if when you press the e-start button if you hear any noises or clicks or whatever! Does the e-start motor turn? Is the battery good? Do you hear a click from the solenoid? HAVE you checked the FUSE?!?!?! Is the sidestand switch bypassed? Is the clutch switch bypassed? It could simply be your start cut-off relay malfunctioning and not the CDI! In this case, when you press the e-start button you won't hear anything! Vando beer |
Continuity in the orange cable (from ignition coil connector to CDI connector) is good.
The multimeter is analog. Yes, I understand the diodes, and that's why you say to check for continuity two times on every two cables. With analog multimeter there's no continuity in CDI's orange wire with any other CDI's wires. Quote:
E-start motor turns and runs when powered. Tested - works. The battery is good. Bought it new last summer. But the bike used to kick-start without the battery anyway. Solenoid works and clicks. Fuse is good, everything else on the bike works (lights, etc.). Sidestand switch is not bypassed. But anyway it shuts the motor only when you select a gear and the sidestand is down. There's no clutch switch. And it doesn't have a connection to the wiring harness. There's no other places too look at, just the CDI :confused1: |
Can't wait to ride, so I bought another CDI, used, but a good one. I hope I'll receive it this week, as it shouldn't take long - shipping from Germany to Lithuania.
I hope I'll see the spark (at the end of a tunnel) now! jeiger |
Updates???? :)
Fitted my bi-xenon 55w 4300k today.. had to hack it but it was worth it! :innocent: Vando beer |
Still waiting for the CDI to be delivered :censored: by the tracking info I should receive it in about two days... I see that Hermes is pretty slow :thumbdown:
Glad you're done with it! How and why did you hack it? Where did you place the ballast? I thought I will post some pictures of my bike's xenon installation for you after I receive the CDI and get the bike running, so I could put the headlight on, but as I said the CDI is still on it's way... :scooter: did you have any problems with the light bulb's rubber cover? |
I thought it would've arrived there already...
Well.. the bulb is kinda dodgy Chinese stuff... The two little screws that tighten the metallic casing to the H4 plate around the bulb were practically loose so I had to tighten them but the bulb still vibrates a lot! After that I found out I had to disassemble the bulb LOol... remove the metallic casing, pull out the H4 plate, rotate and pull out a black plastic part so I could fit the stock rubber thingy, put in that metallic ring that holds the bulb in the headlight, refit the black plastic part, refit H4 plate, refit metal casing and tighten the screws Properly...and clean everything I touched... Still, as I mentioned, the bulb still shakes in the headlight socket as she isn't tight and has some play.. I can touch it and feel that it doesn't fully stay in there.. Have to figure out what I can do to that F:censored:G bulb! I fitted the ballast on the outside of my fiberglass airbox right behind the Left hand side seat plastic cover.. Fitted the 100cm extension cable I also bought to connect the ballast to the bulb... Had to hack the cables from the relay that makes the bulb move up and down... The small two cable plug that connects to the bulb for the High/low I had to extend it... I cut it about 15cm from the plug, soldered and heatshrinked some cables and fitted larger heatshrink (but didn't shrink so it stays flexible) over the cables to protect them and tidy things up.. Also had to solder and heatshrink the other two cables that connect to the H4 socket so when I choose hi or low beam on the handlebar switch it'll work. On the end of these two cables, I soldered and heatshrinked the pins I removed from an old broken H4 lamp so they fit nicelly in the H4 socket.. I plan on trimming down the excess cable that goes from the relay to the battery terminals..it has about 60cm just "hanging" there... The only thing that I don't quite like is the 23000volt thingy...I only secured it tightly with electrical tape...I'll fix that later on probably.. I'll take some pictures tomorrow to show you how it looks fitted... P.S.: Don't forget to let us know when the CDI arrives! ;) Vando beer |
Received the CDI today. I was soooo excited, as I was thinking where will I go for a ride!
Installed the CDI unit, turned the key, kicked the bike over, and... kicked again... and again... and again... THERE'S STILL NO SPARK!!! All I need now is a piece of strong rope, a strong tall tree, and I can hang myself! There's no continuity between new CDI's orange wire and any other wires, so: either my old CDI is good, or the new CDI is not working either. If someone could measure the continuity of a running bike CDI's continuity between orange and other wires I would REALLY appreciate it (11wire CDI). |
Also:
Pickup coil resistance meets specifications; Stator coil resistance meets specifications. :hang: |
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I don't get a clue of your debate with Bacardi (electricity seems too abstract for my limited understanding), but still enjoy a lot your "conversation", feels like when you see a friend talking Chinese, then he makes a joke and all Chinese break into laughs and you think: he has to speak very well damn mandarin indeed! Good luck and go on! The final reward will be even sweeter.bier Esteban |
Tadas... Can you tell us the reference number on your stock CDI and the reference number on the newer used one?
If it is the same as any other of our bikes we can check some wiring diagrams. Also you could post a pictures of the plug connectors (of each or two/three at a time) since the back of the bike until under the gas tank (ignition coil included)! Regulator/rectifier, CDI, Battery, fuse, DIODE, stator, starter motor, solenoid, front and rear... One more thing.. on the youtube clip it shows you can turn on the headlight...could you turn it on before you put the bi-xenon on there? We gotta figure out what's wrong with that bike... Vando ;) |
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Okay guys, I won't do that. Yet... :innocent:
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Vando, the reference number on both CDIs are the same: 3YP - 00 070000-2180 QAC18 There's a picture of ignition coil in the previous page. There's also pictures of engine's connectors and CDI connectors, but I'll add some more. Yes, the headlight was working perfectly before I installed the xenon kit, and it is working now. Everything works except that there's no spark... It's pretty late and pretty dark right now, so sorry for bad pictures. It seems that I have a limit of how many pictures I can upload (?) The starter relay is installed at the back of the bike, close to the regulator/rectifier, as there was no other place to put it to. Done the wiring, starter works nicely. I've received the clutch switch that I bought off eBay, I'll install it later. (all the wiring for the starter is made by me, so don't bother about it, the bike HAS to run, and used to run, without all the e-start stuff). There's the bike when it was assembled (almost- there's just the muffler, hand guards and the skid plate missing), and I thought I will go for a ride that evening. Now all the plastics are off again. |
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CDI. Why battery? Fuse is okay. Diode does not exist in this wiring harness, nor it existed in a previous trashed one. There's a diode in the XT600E wiring that I have, but that wiring doesn't fit my bike. I haven't opened the engine to see the stator, I will probably do that tomorrow. Starter motor is as all starter motors, it gets it's positive wire from battery through starter relay to the motor, nothing to look for there. Solenoid works, but it also doesn't belong to the original wiring. Front and rear? Sorry for the lack of pictures, I'll need to start uploading them to the imageshack or somewhere else, because I reached my upload limit here as I see. |
You don't need to open the motor to check the stator!
You said you've checked it but just to check: You need to check for continuity between all three WHITE wires (two at a time). There has to be continuity between all three. Also test for continuity between every single Whites and a good frame ground! There can't be any continuity there! One thing.. you said the sidestand switch isn't bypassed... try bypassing it to see what happens?! The problem with a sidestand switch failing is that it'll "tell" the CDI that the sidestand is always down! Yeah, you need to make an imageshack account.. it's the best way to keep pictures and it's free! Another thing sometimes happens and doesn't allow the XT to start is the ignition coil cable that connects to the sparkplug CAP might not be making a good connection thus not allowing for it to start! One thing that happened to me when I fitted the bi-xenon kit.. The fuel tank pulled the Orange cable off the ignition coil and the bike wouldn't start! Orange is connected to the TOP PIN on the ignition coil! Vando.... |
Hey! Where is your frame ground?!?!?!?!?
On my model it's a cable that goes from the battery negative to one of the e-starter motor bolts that hold it to engine! but since you ain't got an e-starter motor you need to have another good ground!!! Remember, paint and primer don't allow for good grounds! Check that out! Vando beer |
Hey there!
I had one of those EUREKA moments today! (and I hope I'm right...) After checking the stator if it gives AC current (and it does), I checked for continuity between all white wires (there is continuity, and resistance meets manual's specifications) and between all whites and ground as you said (there's no continuity between whites and ground). So then I've checked the regulator/rectifier. The three whites gives it AC current, but the red wire that goes to battery and to the ignition lock gives AC current too! As far as I know, and if I'm correct, the red wire should be DC current! My rectifier does not rectify the current, haha! So my first question is: should the bike run with the regulator/rectifier disconnected? And how to (properly) check it? So onto responding. The side stand switch is good, I checked it, also tried bypassing - no spark. Anyway, the side stand switch is there to cut off the engine if it is in gear with side stand down. The spark plug cap and ignition coil has good connections. And the gas tank doesn't pull on wires. The gas tank is taken off while I'm looking for the spark anyway. There's two different size connectors on the ignition coil, so there's no way to swap them. There is a ground wire. It was a very horrible one before, so I had it re-done, and fitted it again. Before fitting the ground wire I scraped off some paint and primer to make a good ground connection. The ground is connected to the place where one of the chain rollers is bolted on. Imageshack - dscn7339f.jpg |
Unless the battery is good, the bike won't run without the charging system working; sounds like you need a new reg/rectifier.
Well done! I would charge the battery and retry as that will power the coil if all else is good. Reg/rectifier units are cheap on e-bay. Good luck. |
That "eureka" moment was not the case for the bike not running. The battery was almost dead, but still had enough power to run all lights. My battery charger (the device) is toasted, I need a new one, so at the moment I don't have a battery charger to use.
But I had another EUREKA moment, and this one was the one I needed!!! THE BIKE RUNS! I figured out what's wrong with it after sitting for quite a while and watching the wiring diagram. Long story short: the "ENGINE RUN" switch was OFF. Long story long: The wiring diagram shows that when you set the switch at "RUN" it disconnects the two wires, and connects them when you set it at "OFF". That's not what I was logically expecting. :oops2: I thought that if you want to start the engine you have to connect some wires... As I mentioned before I fitted the '09 Yamaha R6 engine kill switch and starter button assembly. That assembly connects two wires for "RUN" and disconnects for "OFF". The original XT switch connects the two wires when "OFF" and disconnects when "RUN". So now I have to set my new switch at "OFF" to start the engine and set it on "RUN" to kill the engine. After I figured that out the bike started on the second kick :clap: and after all the plastics were fitted I was off to the woods! :scooter: Anyway, the wiring was a good purchase, the ignition coil was a good purchase too, because the old one is toast, but I'm not sure of the CDI. My old one might have been a good working one all the time (I'll need to test it). So I will have one for spare or for sale. My regulator/rectifier looks like it's charging the battery, because the starter barely turned the engine over and now it's stronger than before (it will need some more charging I guess). But it has some cracks in the resin casting over the micro-scheme. So it will be replaced sooner or later. Tip for myself and anyone else: don't buy a bike with trashed wiring; don't experiment with wiring - just get a new/working one and save yourself some damn money! |
And here's some pictures.
Xenon kit - just where I had put the ballast, and the rest is pretty much stuffed and ziptied together with all the other wires. Installation was plug and play - one wire went to battery +, another to the ground, and the final socket connected to the original light bulb connector. No adaptations needed. Only had to disassemble the light bulb to fit the protective rubber. Imageshack - dscn7348e.jpg Imageshack - dscn7351.jpg Imageshack - dscn7352y.jpg Imageshack - dscn7353n.jpg Imageshack - dscn7354j.jpg Imageshack - dscn7359f.jpg Imageshack - dscn7358q.jpg Imageshack - dscn7360.jpg |
Oh my oh my... I could punch you in the gut right now if I could! :P
Well, you do have space to fit the ballast there with the stock headlight bracket...but I ain't got that anymore.. I'll try to post up some pics tomorrow of how I mounted my kit.. have to go fix the flat rear tire first ;| I'm wondering here... If your engine has the placement for the e-start and you don't have the e-start motor, what is covering the hole on the LHS engine casing where the e-start motor fits? Ride safe! Vando beer |
Yeah, I wanted to punch myself too... doh
I wouldn't have EVER thought that Yamaha could think of this: to disconnect wires for the engine to be ON, and connect them for "ENGINE STOP". The other switch (the new one) does it's job just as the common sense would tell me: it connects two wires for the engine "RUN" and disconnects for "STOP". Well, I guess the lesson is that the common sense isn't always right. You are wondering what's covering the starter motor hole, but I'm wondering why you are thinking that there's no starter motor? I haven't said that there's no starter motor. Just the bike's wiring is not compatible with e-start, that's why I had to wire the e-starter myself and swap the RHS switch assembly. Maybe misunderstanding/miscommunication? There is a starter motor: look closely at all pictures. The starter motor is painted black, so it's a little harder to see. If there would not be a starter motor why then would I swap the "engine run/stop + starter button" assembly, that caused me a lot of troubles? And why would I install the starter solenoid and all the wiring? Where's your common sense? :D Have you swapped the headlight and that's why there's no room for ballast? Waiting for pics :thumbup1: |
Oh.. I thought you didn't have the e-motor at all...lol
oh..the switch... didn't think of that...Touchée! xD Pictures later today hopefully...need to go fix my rear tire..it's flat but there's nothing stuck on the tire.. :| Bike stands on top of a chair right now xD Vando beer |
Yep, the switch was the problem. Who could have thought that original switch works completely opposite from what it "says" it does... doh
Inflate the inner tube (but not too much) and dip it under water - you will see bubbles. And carefully feel the inner tire part with your hand for the cause of the puncture, if it's still there. Hope you get your bike on two wheels soon bier |
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After dinner went to start it, nothing. Kicked and kicked it. Kickstart that is!. Pushed it three miles towards home before i realised some dick had turned the kill switch onto stop. Never made the same mistake again Atb and well done |
If only I kept the original switch assembly I had the bike running quite a while ago!
All the problem was in that new switch assembly: the new switch markings were opposite in function to the original switch. As we say here in Lithuania: you live, you learn, and still you die stupid :smartass: |
Moving on...
After I've ridden my bike again I felt the front brake disc jamming (don't know how to call that) a little more when stopping - I mean as if the disc was bent in one place. It's not visually bent, but I feel the bike shaking forward when the wheel gets stopped more in one part of the disc. And that feeling increased after I changed the brake pads. The original disc may perform well enough but if I'm changing the disc I'd like an upgrade: never mind that little extra price to pay. Of course I would love the double front disc upgrade, but single disc is enough to lock the front wheel and send you over the handlebars, so double discs would be just for the looks (and too pricy to pay for just the looks...). New front disc should not only perform better than the original but also look better too :cool4: and as I'm changing the front one I may just change the rear one as well :innocent: brake pads are new and haven't set in just yet. So the obvious choice is to change the front brake disc, but the question is - what new disc(s) to buy? :confused1: |
I doubt its a disc problem.
Your brake caliper neads rebuilding! |
I doubt its a disc problem.
Your brake caliper neads rebuilding! |
I doubt its a disc problem.
Your brake caliper neads rebuilding! |
What can cause the caliper to act like this?
But I doubt it's the brake caliper. The brake disc is shiny due to wear, but one part of the friction part is darker due to less wear (about 10cm of it's perimeter). I drove it slowly, breaking, and I noticed that when this darker part meets the brake pads the friction releases, and after that when brake pads are on the shiny part again the friction increases throwing the bike (and me) forward. I tried to take a picture but it cannot be seen on a picture due to a lot of shine. I took a marker and painted some black stripes on the disc, and the stripes on the "darker part" of the disc lasted longer. The brake pads are not completely on the brake disc, and the brake disc is not fully used (about 2/3 of the disc is used). Is that normal? The old brake pads where touching each other when I took them out. |
When you are riding and then brake does it judder or can you feel a pulse through the brake lever? If so the disc is warped.
But a brake holding on is most definately a xaliper problem. The piston is seizing in the bore. What happens is moisture in the brake fluid has corroded behind the seal. Expanding it and not allowing the piston to move freely. |
When you are riding and then brake does it judder or can you feel a pulse through the brake lever? If so the disc is warped.
But a brake holding on is most definately a xaliper problem. The piston is seizing in the bore. What happens is moisture in the brake fluid has corroded behind the seal. Expanding it and not allowing the piston to move freely. |
Oh, no no no, the wheel turns freely when the brake is off. The caliper piston is not seized (I moved it when I changed the pads).
The only problem is when I press the brake lever. I don't feel any pulsing though: if there is pulsing in the brake handle then it's really minor and the bike shaking overpowers the feeling of the handle. So now - what new disc(s) should I get? |
I was suspecting that there's something wrong with the front disc (besides it being warped, ofc.). And now I measured it.
The outer diameter is 267mm, and the brake pads uses only 2/3 of the disc, so I think there should be 282mm disc (???). |
I fail to se how you should get more brakepad touching the disc, by going to a bigger disc. The whole brakepart of the bigger disc will be 10mm more "outward" the whole way around.
Try to hold one of the used brakepads up to the wearpattern on the disc, the pads are "too small" to use the whole part of the disc. From the back of my mind I would say they only use 4/5 of the disc, but 2/3 might just be correct. The bigger disc was first added in 1996 (as I recall) It sure doesnt sound like a warped rotor. I would take the caliper apart and clean it thoroughly. Not only the pistons and the grooves for the seals, but everything. Regrease (lightly) the appropriate things with appropriate greases. You need, or atleast I use: Special brake grease for brake piston and seals. Coppergrease for the pins, the little leafspring-plate-thingy which the pads rest on, and ordinary grease for the sliding joints of the caliper. Add fresh fluid, and take it from there. If you want a new disc (it would g great with fresh pads and a rebuildt caliper) just buy the cheepest one you think looks good. Ebay has a lot of nice wavediscs ect. :) |
As you say it would be more "outward" the whole way around, but 7.5mm, not 10mm.
Maybe my expression of 2/3 was incorrect and confusing... The old brake pads were ~6mm off the brake disc, and as they were worn they started touching each other. So the bigger disc would "slide" under the pads, so the pads would be touching the disc with all their surface. There's two wear marks on the disc that I can define: one very old and pretty minor, and one from the old brake pads I removed. By the older wear I see that you are correct - 4/5 or even 5/6 of the disc was used. By the newer wear I can tell that it used about 2/3 of the disc (because ~6mm of pads were off the disc). Difference between these two wear marks is about 6-7mm, so at some point of my brake disc's life it was used, probably, in another bike or with another caliper. 282mm disc fits to XT600 Front 95-04 as this eBay listing says (I don't take blame if that's wrong): Disc Brake Rotor Yamaha V-Star 1100 XT600 Virago XV250 | eBay In (near) future I will take care of my both calipers (sandblast, repaint, rebuild), but now I'm just too convinced it's the disc. 1. disc is a little darker (not so shiny) from less wear at the warped part. 2. caliper is not seized and works nicely (all parts moves as they should). 3. the disc is most likely to be wrong for the bike, because the brake pads are ~6mm off the disc. 4. a too unlikely coincidence that 267mm disc has 7.5mm less friction surface for the pads than 282mm disc and my old pads were 6mm of the disc? Regarding the new discs: the wavy ones would look great, but they are either very expensive or made in China :dots: I found these discs: Yamaha XT 600 E 90 Disc Rear Kyoto Wavy Parts at Wemoto - The UK's No.1 On-Line Motorcycle Parts Retailer Yamaha XT 600 E 90 Disc Front Kyoto Parts at Wemoto - The UK's No.1 On-Line Motorcycle Parts Retailer I'm not sure of the size these discs are, I'll need to get a quote from the seller. |
Zergman, where did you get your new wiring loom? I'm planning on doing similar stuff to my 1994 XT600E soon, and I'd like to replace the wiring loom. Previous owner had cut and bodged it, and I think a whole new loom would give me peace of mind. I think they are still available from Yamaha, but at a very high cost.
The bike looks great, by the way. |
I dont care where parts are made, so I guess were a bit different that way (which is fine by me :D)
Heres a picture of the wearpattern on my front rotor, so you can compare to youre own. http://www.tenere.dk/forumnew/upload...4230resize.JPG |
Thanks BlackDogZulu!
I got my wiring loom from eBay - eine der größten deutschen Shopping-Websites, as well as all other parts I needed: ignition coil, CDI (well I didn't need that, I think I'll sell it...), Acerbis gas tank, etc. Used parts are cheaper there. New parts (seals, brake disc pads, carburetor to cylinder rubber fittings) are cheaper elsewhere (.com; .co.uk). The wiring loom cost me 45EUR and shipping another 14EUR. Don't hesitate to bargain, most or the German sellers speak English, and you can get these items you need at a lower price than usual (I did, although I don't remember how much cheaper...). I made a mistake and thought that I can repair an unrepairable wiring loom, and being a cheapskate cost me four times as much as it could if I just replaced the wiring loom... Never again will I experiment with a wiring loom! doh I also bought a wiring loom that I didn't use (bought a wrong one, so I just took the flasher relay and fuse+holder). It is from 1992 XT600E (3TB). The number on the harness is 3TB-82590-11. And it also has a device that I don't know what it's for, it reads: 12R-01 omron 0691D6 The harness looks fine, I didn't cut it anywhere. If you need some pictures of the sockets just PM me and I'll email you the photos. Cheers! Tadas. |
Hey Jens.
Well I would not care too, but Chinese usually makes a lot of low quality stuff. Although they can make good products if they want. So I'm not sure if these brake discs are low or high quality. If someone has tried them out, and can recommend brake discs made in China, I'll give 'em a try. Your disc wear looks as it should (as my old wear looks like). The new (shiny) wear is different. I'll modify your pic to show you guys. The zone marked red is obviously your disc wear pattern, but the blue is mine. http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/9748/brakesl.jpg Uploaded with ImageShack.us |
Got a reply from Wemoto - the front disc is 267mm in diameter.
Did some searching and asking, as soon as I get all replies I will buy something beer If no better option comes up I think I'll get these two beauties Disc Brake Rotor Yamaha V-Star 1100 XT600 Virago XV250 | eBay Yamaha XT 600 E 90 Disc Rear Kyoto Wavy Parts at Wemoto - The UK's No.1 On-Line Motorcycle Parts Retailer P.S. no Chinese discs are significantly cheaper (they are even more expensive sometines!), so I don't think it's worth buying them. |
Tadas!
Check this thread I started: http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...ve-brake-50243 Also, to update the link for the rear disc brake rotor: Front Brake Disc Rotor Fit For Yamaha TW200 TW225 200/225 | eBay I fitted one of those but for a 2002 YZ250 front end! (I got one 2002 YZ250 front end on my 1990 XT600E) and it is good, and brakes even better than the stock XT front disc brake rotor.... Vando beer |
Thanks!
Well for now I will have to be satisfied with just the new rotors :rofl: I would love a new front end, but that will have to wait. How did you fit it and what modifications were done would be great! (I could not find that info on your mod. thread) I found some stuff over here: http://www.galferusa.com/WebExchange/DF%20W2007.pdf Pages: 283 (item 459, front), 285 (item 467 rear, 470 front), 291 (493 front). But the question is how to order them? :confused1: I've been drooling over these S3 Performance discs for a while now. Do they need countersunk bolts? And where to get them? |
Hey guys!
Bought these two beauties: Disc Brake Rotor Front XT600 and XT600 95-03 Tenere 91-98 Disc Brake Rotor TTR225 XT225 XT600E Can't wait to receive them... :clap: Pricy little suckers... 220AUD including shipping to Lithuania. Now... Any recommendations on the countersunk bolts for the front rotor? Cheers! bier |
I see you went for the expensive ones..
I believe the front disc brake rotor needs M6 bolts but please make sure... So, for M6, take a look here: M6 Countersunk Head Allen Socket Screws High Tensile 10.9 Black Pack of 10 | eBay I bought some of these for my front disc brake rotor... M6x35mm You just can't go wrong with these! Vando ;) |
I got my countersunckbolts from the local hardwarestore.
Btw, nice discs.... Looks like the ones I've got for my offroadwheels: http://www.tenere.dk/forumnew/uploads/987/DSC01227.JPG http://www.tenere.dk/forumnew/uploads/987/DSC01233.JPG |
I didn't want to go cheap this time... Especially on the brake discs! God knows what can happen if the brakes fail: could cost a lot to fix the bike, or fix me!
Anyway other discs, like original ones, or even ones made in China aren't that much cheaper, and good looking, and in one place (from one supplier). So I went for these. I'm not guaranteed, but the disc might need 8mm bolts? Then what: should I re-thread the hub? Or it it just bolt's head that's 8mm? :confused1: Quote: Rotor Diameter 282mm Rotor Thickness 4mm Inner Clearance 132mm Bolt Centre 150mm Bolt Diameter 8mm Weight 0.98kg Jens, I was expecting your reply earlier bier I wanted to ask where did you bought your discs? I could not find that info on the forum... I might get the bolts like that in my not-so-local hardware store (I'm living in a town of 2500 people, so limited demand and supply for such kind of stuff...) but I would trust harder bolts more. Also, how is your wavy discs and brake pads holding on? Has the wear increased? |
Im pretty sure my front rotor uses 8mm countersunck bolts, I'll check upon that.
I recall the rear using normal 6mm bolts. I got the discs from ebay, I believe they were sent fra Australia. :D They're wearing very nicely, almost no wear. :scooter: |
Nice to hear that!
Well I thought they are the same, as I can see the product code on your discs in the photos, and it looks like to be the same as in S3 Performance catalog. Got some bad news from the seller... Quote: Unfortunately we have sold out of one of the discs (DBFSDT285) that you ordered. We will have more stock in about eight weeks time but we will try and get production completed a bit earlier. Eight weeks?!?!?!?! They are out of stock for the rear disc, but I mainly need the front one... The rear disc could wait, but the shipping is still the same (60AUD). Don't know what to do :confused1: |
they'll have to ship the rear disc at their own cost.... unless they'll wait the 8 weeks to send you both discs!
My "China" disc is doing very good still looks brand new and I always use the front brake, and mostly never use the rear brake (only on offroad I use the rear and not the front) so I can't see why you went with those guys from S3 performance... I'll be surely buying the other disc, the rear disc that is, from China.. They are most likely made in the same place but the S3 performance ones have their logo laser itched... Vando beer |
Yeah, they want to wait the eight weeks to ship both discs.
I still haven't received a reply from them, but if I can't get those discs shipped separately at the cost I have already paid for shipping of both discs, then I think I'll get a refund. What I will do then - I'm not sure. I think I'll buy the rear disc from China, although no one on eBay ships them to Lithuania, so I'll need to talk to the sellers. S3 Performance states that the discs are made in Australia, and as a company makes their product they try to make it as good as possible. Chinese don't have the responsibility for their product though. But the biggest problem is the front disc: I need it 282mm in diameter. Also, rear and front discs should look like a set, not like random discs bolted on... So S3 Performance discs are looking like a set, and the Chinese rear disc matches by the looks. But there's no front disc that I found looking like it should. Option No. 1: For the front Disc Brake Rotor Front XT600 and XT600 95-03 Tenere 91-98 the disc they have in stock For the rear Front Brake Disc Rotor Fit For Yamaha TW200 TW225 200/225 | eBay but I have to get it shipped to Lithuania. Option No. 2: For the front Disc Brake Rotor Yamaha V-Star 1100 XT600 Virago XV250 | eBay For the rear Yamaha XT 600 E 90 Disc Rear Kyoto Wavy Parts at Wemoto - The UK's No.1 On-Line Motorcycle Parts Retailer but they don't look too good, and the front one is expensive. Anyone has any idea on the front disc? :helpsmilie: |
ask for a refund on the rear brake rotor and partial shipping costs and get the disc from somewhere else...
|
Front!
Front Brake Disc For TDR125 XV/XV S125 250 SRV 250 NEW | eBay still looking for more! if I find any I'll let you know! ;) |
Found what you want! ;)
Motorbike Rear Brake Disc YAMAHA GTS1000 FJ1100 1200 FJR 1300 V-MAX 1200 XV1700 | eBay You can cross reference with these two links: "FJ1100 L,N Front/Rear 84-85" Disc Brake Rotor V-MAX FJ1100 FJ1200 FJR1300 GTS1000 | eBay Yamaha FJ1100 L,N Front/Rear Brake Disc Rotor 84-85 | eBay Motorbike Rear Brake Disc YAMAHA GTS1000 FJ1100 1200 FJR 1300 V-MAX 1200 XV1700 | eBay Check these out and let us know! ;) Vando beer |
Thanks Vando! bier
Now I know some more models that uses a disc like that! I haven't received a reply from S3 Performance, maybe because of the weekend. I think I'll ask for a refund... Or buy the front one from S3 P. and then a rear one from China! So, if I use the smooth round disc for the front, like Front Brake Disc For TDR125 XV/XV S125 250 SRV 250 NEW | eBay , what rear disc would match and look like a set? Sorry for being picky for the looks :innocent: Option No. 3: For the front V-MAX 1200 V MAX 1200 Rear brake disc 130 W | eBay nice wavy one, thanks Vando for finding a model! For the rear Front Brake Disc Rotor Fit For Yamaha TW200 TW225 200/225 | eBay or Yamaha XT 600 E 90 Disc Rear Kyoto Wavy Parts at Wemoto - The UK's No.1 On-Line Motorcycle Parts Retailer (but doesn't look as bad-ass as the one above). Option No. 4: For the front Motorbike Rear Brake Disc YAMAHA GTS1000 FJ1100 1200 FJR 1300 V-MAX 1200 XV1700 | eBay For the rear ?????????? Cheers! |
Front Brake Disc Rotor Fit For Yamaha TW200 TW225 200/225 | eBay
And all other sellers from eBay for that disc replied: Hello, Sorry,we don't ship to Lithuania . Best regards Lin All of them "signed" as Lin, so it's one person everywhere selling the disc. What next? doh |
Hi, how about theese bad boys, ebay.de is always worth a look for Xtparts (sorry if they're already listed above)
Front: Bremsscheibe 282mm für Yamaha XT 660 / XT600 ab 95 vorn | eBay Rear: Hintere Bremsscheibe 220mm für Yamaha XT600 / XTZ660 | eBay |
Thank you Jens! bier
That's a beautiful set of brake discs! I'll get a refund from S3 Performance and buy these :clap: I've tried searching eBay.de but unsuccessfully, probably because in my mistake in spelling German words... :oops2: |
Any updates? :)
|
Bought these discs from Germany that Jens has found :clap:
The seller has listed that for extra 20EUR he can supply better quality discs, quote: "Brake disc are non original discs, but out of a highly alloyed steel.Racing approved. Discs have a thickness of 4mm, otherwise it is wrote. For 15 Eur more I can alternative offer the disc in racing quality that means original steel, especially heat treated and plane grinded of a tolerance less than 0.01mm." So I'll have to wait a few days till he gets the front disc so he can ship it to me (guess what? Out of stock too, haha!). At least a few days, not a few months... Also waiting for my money to be transferred back from S3 Performance. |
Tadas...Has S3 refunded you yet?!
:offtopic: P.S.: I'll try to take the xenon kit pictures tomorrow when I take of my carburetor to adjust the fuel screws.... Oh, and my HID bulb has failed keeps going on and off by itself although the battery voltage is constant....so I'm back to the stock halogen bulb :thumbdown: had to buy a new one because the motha F**** chinese is ignoring my emails and won't replace the bulb that came with the kit! Bought a 55w H4-3 6000k bulb this time from an good reputation ebay seller.. for $15,50 USD shipped.. Vando beer |
Yep, S3 refunded as they had promised, apologized for the inconvenience and etc. Quite nice guys, just messed me up and cost me a lot of time and trouble :funmeterno:
I'm waiting for the discs to be shipped from Germany, the seller said that he might be able to ship them on Monday. Too bad your xenon bulb died :( it may well be a faulty bulb, but if you already have left positive feedback then Chinese guys won't reply to you... Maybe it's a loose contact or something else? Well you will know when you get your new bulb, it might be a ballast or that other high-voltage thingy. Check everything! My xenon kit cost 28.45GBP ("free" shipping), that was last October, and now I found a kit exactly like mine, even the box matches! 55W 50w HID Xenon Motorcycle Slim Kit H4-3 Bi-xenon High Low 6000K Moto Bike | eBay I didn't need to cut a single wire. Just plug and play. |
It's most likely the bulb... I had the multimeter attached to the battery with the bike running and the battery was a stable 13.4v charging and the lights just flickered on and off repeatedly several times...
I bought my kit directly from an Alibaba seller for 26€ shipped and with 2x100cm extra extension cables.. I have the pictures on my camera... forgot it in the garage earlier this night.. I'm gonna go get them and upload them... Vando :) |
Pics:
ImageShack Album - 6 images The 23000v part was better secure before but the cables were a bit tight and while trying to figure out what the problem was I secured them in that black electrical insulator tape... Vando beer |
These ballasts are made better than, let's say, for cars.
I had installed two Xenon kits to my car (not bi-xenon), and after a year or so one headlight (out of four: two low beam and two high) started flickering. It was because of poor sealing of the ballast: moisture got into it and started messing it up. When I opened the ballast I saw that when it's buzzing (you know how ballasts do...) the sound was also "flickering" along with the light, and I saw a spark jumping from one electronic component to another (inside the ballast). But I doubt that that's the case in your bike. Anyway, let's wait for the new bulb and then it will be clear what's causing it. Alibaba is full of fraudulent sellers, and it's good that you have received your purchased item at all. I wouldn't have bought from there if I were you :) Everything is going to be okay, and you will be able to make other drivers blind just like me :mchappy: I'll need to adjust my headlight, because I feel it's too low (I had the headlight completely disassembled during sandblasting and painting...). P.S. can't wait to get my brake discs!!! :scooter: |
Moisture in there sounds probable! I noticed immediately when the kit arrived that it sure wasn't waterproof... some screws weren't fully tightened of the ballast and there were tiny gaps on were the two thick cables go into the ballast.. I told the f*ing chinese and he just ignored that part of the email.
When I get my new bulb back, if it doesn't solve the flickering on/off I'll remove the ballast, open it up, dry it with a hair drier and non-conductive epoxy glue the inside of it like it's supposed to be! Vando :) |
If the new bulb doesn't solve your flickering problem, I really hope that opening and coating the electronic elements inside with epoxy would help!
At first I tried swapping the bulbs with non-flickering ones to test if that was the bulb's fault, but the "good" bulbs also flickered with that faulty ballast. Then I've done the same thing on the ballasts: I dried the ballasts on the radiator in my living room for a few (2-3) days, to make sure they're completely dried (there was some condensed moisture on the inside of the covers), and then I applied lots of silicone sealant before putting the covers back and screwing them into place. Didn't help at all, flickering continued... The damage may have been done, so I would suggest to open the ballast now and dry it ASAP. I ignored the flickering for a month or more, don't make the same mistake as me and act! Cheers! bier P.S. if you end up buying another kit I would recommend the one like mine: it's completely sealed, meaning you cannot disassemble the ballast, and no moisture can get inside because there's no leaky covers! |
Flickering xenon bulb sounds like a ballast problem.
Everytime the bulb shuts off, it needs a new boost of voltage to make the xenon burn. The ballast only does that when you turn on the ignition (if things work properly). So if voltage gets too low and the bulb goes out, you need to cycle the ignition to turn it back on, where a normal bulb just dimmers. So if it turns on/off by itself, it sure sounds like the ballast is shorting someway. |
It can be both things!
Most likely it's a Bulb problem...Toyota US was law-sued because the same happens with most Toyota Prius with HID lights from 2006 to 2009, once the bulbs are replaced everything works properly. So I went with the bulb. Will find out when it gets here.. I saw an youtube clip a couple of days ago and it shows several dead HID bulbs and what happens when the guy tries to turn them on. Very same problem as I'm currently having! So yeah, bulb! |
Okay, let's say it's a 50:50 chance that there's either the bulb or ballast:
but the bulb is cheaper to test so prior to buying a more expensive ballast you should go with the bulb :thumbup1: Cheers! jeiger |
Hey there!
Still no brake discs - the seller dude said the machine broke down and he'll ship the discs on Monday. I can't ride due to crappy weather anyway (lots of rainy days). Vando, how's the xenon repair going on? Still no new bulb I guess, but have you opened/dried/filled with epoxy to try and fix it before you get the new bulb? Cheers! bier |
Ahoy xD
You should've gone with the normal rotors as I did... Do you really think those ones from S3 Performance are any different from the Chinese ones? Well, Still waiting for the bulb..hopefully this week it's here but probably only next Tuesday or Wednesday.. I disassembled the back case of the ballast and nothing looked burnt.. It actually looked almost nicely covered in epoxy.. still I'm gonna fill it up better after googling how to properly do it.. Vando :) |
Vando, why does it seem that you ain't reading the posts? :rolleyes2:
I didn't go with the S3 brake discs. I got refunded from them. I would have gone with the discs that you bought previously, the ones from China, but the Chinese don't ship the rear disc to Lithuania. :censored: And after Jens showed this matching set of brake discs, that are pretty much the same price (or cheaper) as the other discs, I went with those. These discs are made in Germany. Also, should be shipped today :clap: So no, I didn't go with S3 discs, and the Chinese refused to ship the rear disc to Lithuania, so f**k them. :taz: Regarding the ballast - my faulty ballast didn't look burnt too. Try turning the lights on when the ballast is open, and look for a jumping spark. Also listen, the ballast buzzes when turned on, so it should go bzzzz-UM bzzzz-UM (when bzzzz is normal buzzing and UM is when the light bulb flickers). Well we won't know for sure until you receive the bulb. Cheers! jeiger Tadas. |
Hey there!
I do read the post! I actually read the threads from beginning to the end.. Unless it's a Mezo rebuild.. than I just go for the pictures and a few posts! :oops2: Damn those Chinese with the rear rotor... Almost as bad as the British.. I want a Venhill braided front brake hose for the YZ250 front suspension I got on my XT and the F*****s won't ship it to Portugal! :taz: So, have the rotors arrived yet? Regarding my ballast it's working ok for now.. I opened it up, added some "3-second glue" on some parts that looked not properly covered with epoxy that came with it, let it cure during the day in the pool house, closed it and used some liquid gasket to seal the seams all around the ballast. Went to try it and... FAIL! Flickering on/off problem was still there! So, after scratching my head for a couple of hours searching on google tonight, looking for a way to solve the problem I realised the only thing I hadn't tried yet was running the ballast power straight from the Headlight socket (it was previously connected directly to the battery using a special relay harness that came with it) and guess what, It now works! doh Usually it's the other way around... but at least it's fixed! And there won't be any problem with the myth of "melting wire" by running the ballast power directly from the headlight socket.. 1mm2 cable can handle around 16.5 amps and the ballast only takes 5.2 on warmup and 3.2 running! Now at least I got a spare bulb! :thumbup1: Vando beer |
Hi!
Sorry Vando, I thought you might not have read or maybe forgot (or maybe I wasn't clear enough) that I didn't go with the S3P :laugh: So maybe there was something bad in your wiring loom hacking? If you can't get the hoses shipped directly from seller maybe forum members can help re-shipping them to you. Yesterday I was gone whole day kayaking, but still I was expecting for the brake discs to arrive. After I got back home after baking under the sun for a whole day and getting a heat stroke, I found the discs - they were delivered! So, never mind the headache, I went to change the discs on my bike, and after 20minutes, at about 11PM I was done. You know, I couldn't have slept if the discs weren't changed :oops2: that night there was a thunderstorm, so I had to wait until this morning to test drive the bike... And the bike stops great! Brake pads are still bedding in, but there's no more "jittering" in the front when I brake. Also, the bike looks great :cool4: does anybody know what for is the large rubber ring between the original brake disc and spokes? Here's some pics after first 20km ride :mchappy: http://img607.imageshack.us/img607/9...cn8343u.th.jpg http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/6610/dscn8346.th.jpg http://img593.imageshack.us/img593/8...cn8348x.th.jpg http://img831.imageshack.us/img831/6761/dscn8350.th.jpg And here's the outline of the old brake disc: the old brake disc left a groove in the brake pads. It's still bedding in. http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/5...cn8347t.th.jpg Cheers! bier |
I think its there to minimize vibrations. I removed mine, couldnt tell a difference =)
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Quote:
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Tadas.. they look pretty good!
You should've changed the brake pads as well! For now I'm kinda broke so, no braided brake lines for now lol My wiring hacks weren't the issue. I only cut the ballast negative to shorten it and extended the ballast positive to the headlight low beam and it stopped the problem. When before, the ballast positive was connected directly to the battery positive, the voltage would surge from 14.3v to over 16 when I blipping (hard) the throttle and the ballast shuts down momentarily as over-voltage protection. Now, at least I got a spare bulb! lol :P Vandobeer |
Well, I'm glad you've sorted that out!
Yep, I did change the pads. I did that with all the bike assembly after painting it. And I've done ~200km with old discs and new pads, so the pads aren't yet fully bedded in. So I think it's okay. I'm kinda broke too (at least in spare money for the bike), haha! I have another project, an oldtimer Russian KMZ K750 made in 1964. So that's next, but it's not fit for the enduro forum I think... Cheers! jeiger |
I love the carbon yoshimura exhaust, where did you get it? I cant find it available anywhere
Mark |
From a local used parts dealer in the market. He has lots of crap, but sometimes you can find something good. The dude (old guy) didn't know what he was selling. But it was obviously not made for the XT600, because I needed to make an adapter. Don't really care what it was made for (make/model), sounds sweet and performs way better that the original. That's the most important.
Paid about 8 USD for it. I consider that a good buy, haha! :rofl: |
Hi folks.
I haven't done anything since fitting the new brake discs, too much to do over the summer. Now, winter is coming, it's getting colder, and I'm preparing for spiked tires to ride on ice. Here's a couple of pictures, first one is just days (June 10th) after firing the bike again since all the stupid trouble I've gone through. Under the train bridge in Lyduvenai, highest bridge in the Baltic Countries. http://imageshack.us/a/img33/4074/nuotrauka0256.th.jpg Second one is today. At the lake of Brydvaisis (hopefully one of my winter ice tracks, haha!). Sorry for the quality, but I hope that scenery makes up for a crappy (phone)camera. http://imageshack.us/a/img17/2830/nuotrauka0265.th.jpg |
No serious updates for quite a while...
I've bought a set of original XT600 wheel hubs, and I'm going to make a set of SM wheels, hopefully by the next summer. Not sure where I will get the stainless steel spokes, but I'm sure I'll find some supplier, because I've seen people lacing original hubs to 17" rims. As for the rims, I'm most likely to get these: supermoto Felge Felgenring RIM goldspeed 17 x 3,50 KTM SXV SMR RR excel talon | eBay 17" 3.5 front supermoto Felge Felgenring RIM goldspeed 17 x 5,00 KTM SXV SMR RR excel talon | eBay 17" 5.0 rear (maybe 4.5 if 5.0 is too wide) Anyway, it's not that big priority now, I have hubs, everything else can wait (at least until next summer). I have decided to get SM wheels because: I want to have two sets of wheels, one for road and another for off-road/winter; these tires I have (Trail Wing) are crap on roads - quite slippery on turns/junctions (a few times I've felt rear wheel sliding/drifting), sh*t on mud/grass/gravel/sand; and also wide SM wheels look SOOOOOO SWEET! I also have a wish list :innocent: Front fork transplant (WP?); to increase performance, wheel travel, and maybe bike height. Rear shock swap; to increase performance, wheel travel, and maybe bike height. (I know it's very expensive, so most likely will have to wait...) Trailtech Vapor speedometer assembly; to cope with SM wheels and enduro wheels. SM front fender. SM wheels. Neoprene fork gaiters (maybe). Handlebars (more rigid - thicker pipe walls). Handguards with aluminum framing. Bash plate. Stainless steel headers, and maybe exhaust muffler change (this one is a bit too loud, "bangy" if you know what I mean). Braided brake lines. Wider footpegs. Chain guide. Oil cooler (maybe). Engine rebuild including cylinder honing, high compression piston, etc. (when there will be a need for that). Oh, there's also a horn swap :rofl: I already have it, just need to repaint it where needed, and replace the pathetic existing one. New one is no miracle, but should cause some heart attacks if used at road crossing (zebra) :rolleyes2: I know that front fork swap could mess up my SM wheel build as the axles may be different thickness, but I would get another hub and match to the fork I use. I'm not sure which one (forks or SM wheels) will be done first, so first I'm matching wheels to original forks, and then we'll see... And so that my wish list would not look as big as it is, here's the "Done!" list: Complete sandblast and paintjob. Wiring loom change. Throttle housing and ignition switch assembly change. Acerbis gas tank. Carbon fiber exhaust. New brake discs and pads. Carb inlet rubber change. Xenon headlight bulb change. Front fork seal and oil change. Engine oil and filter change. New battery. And custom hand-made and polished stainless steel inserts at the back :Beach: (between rear light and seat, on top of painted fender) Regarding my "wish list": I would really appreciate any suggestions and advice. For example - what front forks would be good to get, so I would not need an engineer to make me triple clamps from scratch, and so on... That's it for now, Cheers! Tadas. bier |
17 x 4.25 rear rim is the perfect size for the XT! ;)
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The problem is - there's no 4.25 rim at this shop :( only 5.0 or 4.5... Or wider/narrower.
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