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So, the wheels are "coming to me" faster than expected, haha! :D
Today I've bought Suzuki DRZ wheels with Takasago Excel rims, 3.5 and 4.5 inches wide. Rear wheel is in great condition, front one had been slightly hit, and probably will need specialist's attention. I will use only the rims, and maybe spokes (for the front wheel). I will sell the hubs. Paid only 130EUR for the set, and it came with inner tube and a pretty good tire (for rear). I won't use the tire, well maybe for drift training or some similar activity that rips tires to shreds... And I think I'll go tubeless. :rolleyes2: Wheels and hubs will be painted green (bike's color), and spokes will be stainless steel. I am also swapping the front forks with KTM EXC 520 WP up side down forks. Will need the hub from a KTM, axle, caliper, disc, and probably another set of triple clamps (with proper steering stoppers). If so, will sell the KTM triple clamps too. I haven't received the forks yet, has to be shipped from Austria, so I can only post seller's picture. 191EUR+30EUR shipping for the forks. I will be painting front fork plastic protectors (the plastic ones at the bottom) bike's color too. Here's some pictures to lay your eyes upon! http://imageshack.us/a/img839/5756/dscn0308g.th.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img42/1469/dscn0309xx.th.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img22/4022/dscn0310r.th.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img811/5117/dscn0311r.th.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img197/1682/dscn0313m.th.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img826/8238/sake.th.jpg |
Cool, I hope you will do a writeup for the ktm fork fitment, with a lot of pictures :D
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I will post as many pictures as I can, to make a sort of "how to" for others. I see a lot of "oh, I made a conversion..." and there's no info on HOW TO DO THAT. Haha!
I hope I succeed and I'm very happy with it. But we'll see! Correction on the forks: it's from a KTM EXC 525 2003. Cheers! beer |
This is getting expensive really fast, haha! :oops2:
Brand new front wheel axle (with used side bolts): 34USD (fixed price, -25% discount, usually 45USD) + 19USD shipping. Front wheel hub: 112.66EUR + 20EUR shipping (won at auction). Phew! I suppose the spokes I got with the wheels aren't stainless, but I'll have to investigate this a little further. http://imageshack.us/a/img33/471/asis.th.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img141/5945/stebule1.th.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img268/4460/stebule2.th.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img42/6277/stebule3.th.jpg To do: straighten the front rim; sandblast both rims and hubs, paint them; buy spokes, lace wheels, get tires, mount them; buy new seals and bearings for hubs and assemble. To buy: front brake caliper (maybe not a stock KTM, maybe something a bit more extreme if possible), and new pads; oversize brake disc and caliper mounting bracket; electronic speedometer; source the triple clamps and new bearings; OR: modify/make fit KTM ones. We'll see... To do list will increase as I go, but for now: to be continued... P.S. I was quite pissed when I saw this auction: Ktm Exc Gabel +Federbein | eBay but heck, you can't ever know... |
Hey guys.
Received the forks and axle today. Axle is perfect, just as described. And the forks aren't. :taz: Seller listed them as 2003 EXC 525 forks, but these are 2000 year model, thus the axle and hub won't fit, as 2000 year model has 20mm axle and 43mm lower shock parts. 2003 model has 26mm axle and 48mm lower parts. There's a date cast on the lower part of the fork, and it says "00" meaning 2000 and it's in a sun-like circle with 12 "sun rays" meaning months, it's on 1st "ray". There's also a print on the inner part of the plastic fork guards, with an Art. No. which ends in "01092000", so it's 2000year January 9th. Fu**!!!:censored: |
File a "item received not as described" ebay complaint and if you win, have the seller send you back a full refund (includes shipping costs) and have he pay the shipping costs back to you! |
Thanks Vando, I'm already watching these forks bier
A friend of mine is helping me to communicate with the seller (because seller's English is pretty bad), and he helps by translating my messages to German. He's a really big help. Seller claims that these forks are the same as 2003, and KTM made 48mm forks with 26mm axle only since 2004, but I have found information that 48mm forks was an upgrade since 2003. (If anyone has confirmation on that please share it, it would really help me) Plus, he misinformed my about the year of manufacture, he said it's 2003, and actually it's 2000, as I've said before. I will open a dispute, but now I'm trying to negotiate on friendly terms: I guess I'll have to fail a complaint even if he agrees to accept return, as a guarantee to receive refund. Anyway, today I received the front hub, and it's really nice. I'll keep you updated! Cheers! :scooter: |
If they advertised the forks as 2003 EXC 525 forks but they are not, then they are 'not as described' and you must be fully refunded. It's eBay policy and I think it's law in most countries. Where eBay flouts 'distance selling' laws, however, is with return costs - indicating to sellers that they do not have to reimburse return 'shipping' charges. In fact, in the UK, the law states that you merely have to 'make the item available to the supplier'.
For smaller items, you'll normally find that the eBay seller will reimburse your return costs to encourage you not to leave them negative feedback - which, of course, you're bound to if you are out-of-pocket with absolutely nothing to show for it and all because of a lying, cheating description of the item for sale. I don't know how you'll fare with eBay or PayPal, though, because when it comes to return costs - even if their client acted dishonestly in making the sale - they do not seem to give a flying :censored: about buyers' return-costs. As far as I recall, when you open an eBay 'case' to try to get your money back, nothing is done for a week. That's whether (a) it's the first time you have even mentioned it to anybody or (b) you've already had numerous exchanges and got absolutely nowhere with the seller. The seller should respond (make a comment) during that time but eBay don't do anything until you give up on the seller and force the case onward to eBay. I would start an eBay case as soon as possible (you can always cancel it early - as 'resolved' - if the seller pays up) in which you state the problem and what you would want to happen (i.e. full refund). One thing: if what you have said is true, you are COMPLETELY in the right and the seller is COMPLETELY in the wrong... But go easy on the seller because he may have legitimately broken a 2003 bike, to which a former owner/keeper had added different forks, yokes, axle, wheels, etc. to rebuild the front end after a crash. That seller may not have even suspected that the parts were not the original ones. On the other hand, they may just be yet another "eBay bastard seller" - but you don't know that (yet). Anyway... Good luck, Zergman. You must be pretty disappointed. Hope this helps. |
You should never go by Year of the bike!
There are transition years where one bike can be sold in one country as a "test sale" and not sold in other countries. For example, the XT600E was stopped being fabricated in 2003 and there were people claiming some were 2004 model which is impossible as it was discontinued in 2003! You have to do your homework properly before engaging in anything similar to what you are doing! I spent WEEKS researching compatibility part numbers for the several year models of YZ's and WR's when I went on buying the parts to replace my front suspension! And in any doubt, ask the sellers to take measurements of the details that aren't making sense about the item so you can be 100% sure on what you are buying! Talk to the seller, give him 48hours to respond. If he doesn't, just open the item received is not as described complaint! One important thing, don't ever threaten the seller on any of your messages to him! Good luck! Vando ;) |
Thanks, Bigfoot. Yes, I am disappointed, and most likely I will loose some money. That always sucks.
I don't know if I will be perceived by eBay as right, or maybe as wrong. The situation is complicated, compared to other eBay deals I've had (selling and buying). I might have messed up myself. Seller listed these forks as: "Sie stammt aus eine KTM 520 EXC und passt sicher auch auf andere modelle (450, 520, 525, 530, EXC und SX)" Meaning the forks are from 520 EXC, and will fit other models (450, 520, 525, 530, EXC and SX). There was no date in the listing. Over eBay messages I asked what year it was, and now he said it's from a 2003 KTM EXC 525. Okay, I've checked the sources and found out that it's 48mm forks. Paid for it. Payment was made via Bank Transfer. So this might be the most complicated part of returning an item, I think. But there's markings all over the forks that these are made in 2000. Why lie? To make yourself some more unnecessary problems? Here's some pictures, correct me if I'm wrong on the date... http://imageshack.us/a/img827/1334/bild0159m.th.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img21/9418/bild0155.th.jpg Anyway, I measured the top clamp of the triple trees (of this 43mm fork), and I'm worried if 48mm forks would clear the gas tank! I mean the top clamp could hit the tank, or could clear it by a couple of millimeters. I actually could reduce the turn of the front fork, thus not letting the triples reach and hit the tank. That would reduce the maneuverability, but by very little. When riding, I haven't turned the handlebars till it hits the stopper. Have you? Only when maneuvering the bike in garage or etc. Is it still a good idea to swap the front end? :confused1: was it a stupid idea from the beginning? I don't know, probably we'll just have to wait and see. One more question for you guys: if anyone has a KTM, or any other bike with 48mm forks for that matter, could you measure the width of the top clamp, and the distance from the middle of the stem to the widest side of the clamp (where you measured the overall width)? That would help a lot! |
2003 was the year when KTM upgraded the suspension. Parts I bought for the wheel (hub, axle) was also listed in year range starting at 2003.
I don't think I could find any info on the compatibility of KTM parts for Yamaha... Yes, I know I messed up on that, and it's because I've never been "burnt" by anything like this when dealing on eBay. Every seller was very competent. I should have asked for measurements even if I knew the year. But let's not be Captains Hindsights here, hehe. Seller hasn't responded to my last message for well over 24hrs. He had responded earlier. I haven't threatened him, and I know I can't, that would only make things worse. I am trying to be as polite as I possibly can. |
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Got a partial refund from the seller, so I'll be keeping/selling the forks, whichever I find appropriate and good for myself.
I'm having doubts on whether I should continue on my quest for the KTM front swap. Maybe I just should make SM wheel set for original setup, and save the money on a real KTM? Because I want a hard enduro bike, and I am listing this bike for sale. But, if I'm not getting the price I want (what the bike cost me) I'm keeping it. I'll earn the money that I would get for selling this bike, but I don't think I can earn back the bike with all the love put into it! And a little update: new tires, Mitas C-02 and C-19. Who said the season is over when the snow falls??? :rofl: (sorry for the crappy phone-camera) http://imageshack.us/a/img194/751/nuotrauka0272.th.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img20/8267/nuotrauka0271.th.jpg |
Any updates? :)
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Not much going on right now. I'm trying to enjoy this (a bit crappy) winter. Waiting for ice to thicken over the lakes.
I made a DIY studded rear tire (in the picture it is before welding and shortening): http://imageshack.us/a/img707/8885/dscn1311c.th.jpg And it's made like this (process-not my video): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ohkpcaim6EU Scrapped the "KTM front swap" idea at least for the moment. Regular maintenance: got a new air filter. I'm searching for another set of wheels for summer MX tires (so I would not need to re-fit everything every season, as it's not too good for tires and rims), re-balance everything, etc. Fitted rim-locks to the winter wheels. Also gave the front damaged SM 17" rim to the (not-so-good) specialists (but there's no better ones in 200km radius), straightened it a bit, but it needs to be laced and trued to see if it's really usable. I think it is. Bought FAG bearings (yeah... who gave those bearings that name? >.< ) for rear wheel, seal, still need some more stuff to rebuild the hubs for SM. Need spokes, contacted Buchanan's, I'll order both sets once I have some spare money. I should ask for a discount, as my second name is Buch, it's "my company", hehe! (in Lithuanian it has an ending -as, so Buchas). Anyway, it's listed for sale at 1800EUR + summer and winter tires 100EUR/set: if I sell it - I'll buy a hard enduro (probably KTM/Husaberg). If not - I'll keep the bike, "personalize" it further, and save money for another bike! You can never have too many of them... :scooter: |
Cool tire :clap:
I used to use small woodscrews to put in the tire, for driving in the winter when i lived in Denmark. Then you drive on the screw heads, works quiet well as long as you dont put to many. Otherwise the tire have no grip on dry road. bier |
Thanks :thumbup1:
I had the same idea, haha, it's similar to Kold Kutter screws. But these are special nails, meant to be shot into concrete (yes, SHOT, with a special nail pistol, and special rounds with gunpowder). They are made of very tough steel! The problem is that you have to put something inside the tire to protect the inner tube from the nail heads rubbing and puncturing it. I used an old firefighter's hose (cut it along one side, then glued it with silicone, and pressed the hose to tire with inflating the inner tube). Downside of that... Approximately 12 hours of pure work. Drilling, fitting nails, hammering washers and huts, welding, cutting, gluing... 285 nails in the rear tire. Others are using wood screws that has a tip to go through metal sheets. Looks like this: http://www.soloscrew.co.in/full-imag...ead-733848.jpg on clean ice these are unbeatable. Very very good traction. But a little softer metal, means on gravel/tarmac they will wear quicker. It's -15C outside, and I'll go check the ice tomorrow! Can't wait! :clap: P.S. yes, there's no grip on dry road, but on ice - twist the throttle and the bike does a wheelie! |
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Not sure what the cops would say about it tho'.....They'd probably go :nono: |
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My front tire is factory made, with original studs, and they have carbide tips. Anyway, it's sh***y traction on the tarmac, so I would not drive and risk an accident to happen. It's only good on ice, and on fields (grass) with snow. Gravel/sand roads in the woods has packed snow because of the cars and heavy machinery, but that snow is too weak to hold the bike steady and too tough for knobbies to go through. I've been for a drive last night in the woods and it was a constant battle with the bike to keep it straight and steady. Haven't got into the Lithuanian laws yet, what's allowed and what's not during the winter for the bikes. My bike's insurance has ended, so I don't have it for the moment: it's money wasted as I can't ride in the winter now (excluding a few forest blasts...). But anyway, I'm not riding in town during winter (I live in a town of ~2500 people). And if I go to the lake (there's a couple nearby) I'll probably take the bike with me on a trailer, to keep the rear tire from touching the tarmac and rubbing the spikes. Checked the ice on one of the lakes yesterday: the thickness is 19cm closer to shore, and 14cm where it's deeper water. I checked up to 100m away from shore, as the middle of the lake, where it's deepest is ~700m away, too long of a walk, and still the ice will be too thin and dangerous anyway. So MAYBE I'll test the ice somewhere closer to shore, maybe up to 50m away, or maybe I'll wait for some cold weather to come. It's now ~-7C and there's ~15cm of snow on the ice, doesn't let it to freeze properly :thumbdown: When it comes to ice riding - global warming sucks! :censored: |
:helpsmilie:
Guys, have you encountered carburetor frosting? If yes, did you solve that problem, and if yes - how? Today I went to the lake, to have some fun, and after 5-6 minutes of driving the engine started loosing power, misfiring, and then I understood that the carb has frozen. I barely got home (2-3km) and probably the vacuum valve (or however it's called: right part of the carb) has frozen, and when I'm not giving gas it's still RPM-ing high. Thoughts: take some copper wire/tube/rod (~3-5mm thick), one end of it bend around the exhaust pipe at the cylinder, other end - around carb, so the heated copper rod heats the carb. OR make some hot air "pickup" from the exhaust pipe to the air filter. Another thought is to make some sort of "hot air catchers", and they would direct hot air from cylinder to the carb. And maybe last thought: electrical heater for a carb (???). Like this one off a KTM, if possible (SOMEHOW) to adapt it to the XT... Brand New KTM Carburetor Heating Kit XC XCW 2006 2012 55131003044 | eBay |
Use gas with ethanol, or ad some carb-defrosting-alcohol (dont know the english word for it)
I've ridden down to -21C and have had no problems. |
Thanks Jens!
Gas with ethanol will probably be unavailable here, I'll have to check that out. Is that carb-defrosting-alcohol available in gas stations or in alcohol shops (and maybe moonshine, which actually ethanol is)? :laugh: what quantities must be used, let's say, with 1 liter of gas? Hmm, maybe someone has tried pouring vodka to the gas tank? Hope the bike doesn't start vobbling around and loosing traction jeiger P.S. here's the vid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TPdoGoO06Rk |
Here you get the carb-alcohol in most bigger supermarkets and at just about every gasstation. Its around 1 liter of this, for 30 liters of petrol.
Looks like this, often also awvailible in 1ltr bottles. You also use it for when you have/have risk of - small amount of water in the fuel. This mixis both the fuel and water, so the water "burns" away, rather than being "stuck" in the gastank or carb. Its called ethanol or the technical term isopropylalcohol http://www.harald-nyborg.dk/images/600/8692.jpg |
Thank you again, Jens!
I will certainly check this out. I found this on Wikipedia: "It will dissolve ethyl cellulose, polyvinyl butyral, many oils, alkaloids, gums and natural resins." so in concerns me, won't it dissolve rubber o-rings at the petcocks, plastic gas tank, rubbers in carb? Or these rubbers and plastics are not "natural" and will not dissolve? Anyway, if it's used in this product, it must be safe :confused1: Tomorrow - going shopping for this stuff! |
Couple of thoughts:
Ethanol has been linked with serious problems with plastic fuel tanks - it is thought that it softens the plastic and causes it to deform. Ducati have had a huge court case against them in the States over this, and boat owners (with tanks moulded into the hull) are very worried too. Triumph plastic tanks are known to 'grow' a few mm when taken off the bike if ethanol fuel has been used, and have to be refitted pretty brutally. Probably linked with keeping the ethanol-added fuel in the tank for a long time, so the occasional use would probably not be a problem, perhaps up to a 1:10 ratio. When I had my 1200 Bandit I used to get a lot of carb icing (even though it had carb heaters) and I used Silkolene FST in the fuel, about 5 ml per litre. That worked fine. |
Probably adding a little alcohol on occasion during winter then burning it off would be a good idea to keep the tank from rusting where the water sits.
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Okay, now I'm a bit more worried.
So if I use it in a ratio of 1:30 as Jens said, maybe it's okay? Or use it in very small quantities like you BlackDogZulu? Or maybe I should swap the gas tank for the original metal one for the winter? And hope that ethanol-based additives don't damage the carburetor components? Maybe I just need to use vodka or moonshine? :innocent: Hmmm, I think I will have to check this out by testing... Mix in a little bit of additive and see how it (does or doesn't) frost. |
Don't worry. If you are using the bike regularly and changing the fuel, I don't think there is a problem. If you left a high-ethanol mix in the tank over winter, maybe ...
If you are leaving it unused, then adding fuel stabiliser or draining the whole system is best practice anyway. But if it's just to cure carb icing as per the original post, then I'm sure a bit of ethanol added to the mix won't do any harm. |
Thanks BDZ.
So yesterday I bought some of this stuff. Ingredients: propan-2-ol (Wiki says it's the same, Isopropyl alcohol - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia ) Instruction says 500ml bottle is enough for 60l of petrol. So should be enough for three tankfuls. Testing awaits, hopefully today, and I'll keep you guys updated :thumbup1: Thank you all for the help! |
Okay:
filled the tank, poured "the stuff", bike started nice. I let it idle for a couple of minutes, then gave it some throttle, and it's not responding well. My guess is, that the vacuum part of the carb (or some other part, maybe a jet?) is still frozen. Now it's unfreezing (hopefully) from the engine's heat, and soon I will be going to check it again, and, if it's no better, I'll start heating the carb with a hair dryer (hopefully that's enough). If the garage would be heated then it would be better... |
Sooooo......
Started the bike, while it is idling I took off the seat, and blew warm air straight into the air filter. That worked. For a while. I thought "I need to test it now", and I drove to the lake, drove around on ice for a few minutes, and again, carb started frosting. :freezing: I don't know if this propan-2-ol will help. Maybe it's moisture in the air, or what, but it doesn't help. I need to make some sort of warm air pickup, and only then it will work, I'm afraid :( Older cars also has warm air pickup from the exhaust manifold. Don't know what and how to do......... doh |
SOunds weird, perhaps cleaning the carb couldnt hurt?
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Maybe. Never had any problems though, and the problems started when I began driving full-throttle on the ice. I'll check that, and clean the carb if I can't find a solution.
Here's a bit of Wiki: Carburetor heat - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia So probably the only cure is getting some hot air to the carb...? |
Does the problem go away if you let it idle for a bit? that should easely bring enough heat to the carbs, of carbicing really is the problem.
You cen get direct hot air to the carb somehow, and <I've seen people talk about cobberwire going round the header, and then around the carb, to "pic up" heat and transfer it to the carb. But you have to wonder, why are you the "only" one having a problem with carbice? :( Be sure the carb is in fully working order, before you go all in on the Mcgyver action :thumbup1: Good luck, and keep is updated. |
Just additional info on carb ice.
Carb Ice is not new, aircraft with carbs have a built in carb heat you turn on, mainly at landing time as you have backed off power, reducing normal heat flow. This just keeps the carbs clear of ice for the landing sequence and assures you will have full power if you need it. The heat is ducted from the engine only when needed as it does reduce power. I have seen it on my bikes ridden in winter cold and depends on temp/humidity. Like was said above, it you do ice up, just stop a while and it WILL melt away. Rather hard to do in an Aircraft.... Well the stopping is not hard, but restarting may be rather hard if you are in a heap....:thumbdown: |
No, Jens, it doesn't go away if I let it idle for a while. :frown:
It stays frosted (even from the outside of the carb you can see frost buildup), because it is sucking cold air as it idles, and is cooling the carb. If the carburetor-to-cylinder manifolds would be made not of rubber, but metal (aluminum/copper, any good heat conductor) then the carb would heat up from the cylinder's heat. Here in Lithuania it's not only me who is having such problems: in the Lithuanian enduro club forum people are talking about the same thing. And no one has solutions, unless carb has electric heating, like KTM EXC 300, like this Brand New KTM Carburetor Heating Kit XC XCW 2006 2012 55131003044 | eBay Maybe you saw me talking about this copper rod/tube a few posts above? :cool4: Quote:
I'm thinking what electric heating could I make... I will need to test how much heat can a light bulb produce. Maybe the simple fix would be a light bulb, or two, in the air filter, producing heat :rofl: |
Zergman, what temperatures are you having? It might help those of us in moderate climates to understand the problem better. My experience of carb icing has been only on cold, damp days (say around 0-3 deg C with high humidity). Strangely, I have never had a problem in really cold weather, perhaps because in this country cold temps usually mean dry air.
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When I was riding my bike it was approximately -10C
During day it may get to -7C, during night ~ -17C. So I would think that moisture in the air should set on trees, etc. Maybe it's also moisture from the snow, melting when it hits the cylinder and exhaust headers, and evaporates. :confused1: I've also read that icing may occur even at, let's say, +10C, when gasses (air, petrol...) are sucked, they expand and cool (+something with air speed...), thus frosting the carb. I'm not good at thermodynamics, but that's what I found out through my basic knowledge and research. When I lived in UK for a month (all October) it actually felt like the air is moist, even when breathing, it "tickled" my lungs, and made me cough more, haha! Everybody from Lithuania, who visits UK, says the air contains more moisture than here. Hadn't measured the moisture though, can't tell by numbers, only how it felt like. |
Carb icing isn't necessarily related to freezing temperatures. As you correctly say, it's to do with the movement of air through the carb. The air/fuel mix drops in pressure as it squeezes through the carb venturi and this causes a sharp drop in temperature. Wikipedia. The same principle keeps your fridge cold. The moisture in the air condenses and freezes onto the carb surfaces and partially blocks the airflow, meaning less power and rough running. It's most common with moist air around 0 to +5 degrees. Below freezing point, the air is usually drier and it doesn't happen as often.
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Okay... Long time no updates.
Carb frosting problem wasn't solved this winter. But I noticed when I'm driving normally on trails/roads in the woods (not full-throttle all the time) the carb isn't frosting (or at least less). Only when I'm on the ice going flat out sideways the carb starts frosting (+snow thrown onto cylinder/headers by the front wheel, melts, evaporates, and the steam is picked up by the air box, later frosts in the carb...). Front right blinker bulb has burnt out, and I found out that to replace the blinkers completely would be cheaper than to replace all four bulbs (I wanted LED). So I got those 4X 18 LED Motorcycle motorbike Turn Signal Lights Bulbs Indicators Blinker Amber | eBay at 20$. Quite nice, but now I need an electronic blinker relay to compensate for lower power consumption of LED modules. Didn't thought of that when I was buying them... Oh, the modules are a bit rattly inside, not secured very well, so I think pumping in some clear silicone sealant should hold the modules tight. I'll do that later on, when I have some better access to the blinkers. http://imageshack.us/a/img547/6679/dscn3616i.th.jpg And finally I got another set of wheels. :clap: A bit worse condition on the chrome compared to my old wheels. 150EUR/set including shipping and a gift: aluminum Magura handlebars (seller said it's a very strong set of handlebars, they were very popular in the 90's). I don't know if/when I'll mount those. http://imageshack.us/a/img844/6822/dscn3611cc.th.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img189/5814/dscn3610w.th.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img42/4420/dscn3609m.th.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img202/1088/dscn3608t.th.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img18/5255/dscn3607a.th.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img341/1353/dscn3606t.th.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img839/602/dscn3605w.th.jpg And now I am a bit wondering and I need your suggestion... My original plan was to keep my winter tires on my old "winter" wheels (better chrome) because it's a pain in the ass to fit/take off the tires every season, balance them, etc.; these new (worse) wheels to make my "summer" wheels with MX tires: take them apart zinc plate the spokes, and paint hubs/rims green color of the bike. And I have almost ready to make my supermoto "road" wheels for good road traction (these will be painted bike's color regardless). Should I paint my summer MX wheels or not? I thought that mud/sand/small stones can chip the paint and make my work wasted. My other option is to mount the winter tires on the new worse wheels and mount MX tires on my old better wheels. What do you think I should do? :confused1: P.S. I understand that 3 sets of wheels can be a little too much, but you know... I like tinkering with my baby :cool4: |
Well well well... My topic got some moss growing on it, so I need to refresh it :rofl:
Not much going on with the bike. What's done since the last update? Bosley stainless steel foot pegs, "bark buster" handguards, Replaced the blinkers. Unpleasant surprise after the last ride: my chain guide broke off doh it was cracked so it was supposed to happened sooner or later... Any suggestions on a replacement? I'd prefer some guide which "hugs" the chain, I mean goes around it, rather than just being bolted on one side of the chain... There are some 45EUR ones on Kedo or eBay though... Picture album (made for Bosley): ImageShack Album - 13 images http://imageshack.us/a/img845/3954/brmh.th.jpg Cheers, Tadas. |
Ice in carb
In response to putting light bulbs in the air cleaner, I think they would get cooled too fast to be of any benefit. You need direct contact with the carb throat with a heated wire, maybe pulled from some old heated gloves. Then wrap insulation around. It won't take much constant heat to stop the problem. Just do not overload the charging system. Like I say, heated glove wiring may work as it is engineered heating.
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Hey Steve, the light bulbs were just a silly idea which probably would have never worked anyway :blushing: a mod lower in this post I hope will solve my problems. Keep reading... :rofl:
Moving on... Still no chain guide. But, there will be some progress in the performance sector :thumbup1: Due to my spark plug looking "lean but OK (?)" (spark plug chart was here in the forum displayed several times), I decided to make a carb swap, and after talking to Vando (bacardi23) I bought the Raptor 660 carb. It's already shipped to me, was really dirty, but now cleaned and shiny :clap: Raptor 660 intake boots (carb-air box) are in transit, as well as the air filter and billet fuel screws. Unfortunately Vito's jet kit (like Vando's) were discontinued, so unavailable to me. I'll probably need another set of needles and (for sure) will need another set of jets. Those will be bought separately from...somewhere. Not sure yet from where and what sizes. Choke is different, so I will probably end up buying something like this: Magura 14AL7 Choke Lever Assembly 0550845 M211524 | eBay Throttle is also different, with one cable, so I'll probably buy something like this: Quick Action Throttle Set 1 4 Turn Universal Fits on Road Off Road Bike | eBay (there was a throttle handle similar to this recently on this forum, but I can't find it!) Any suggestions are welcome bier That's it for now... And here's some pics. Some screws were changed as old ones were damaged (two M8 in the bottom will also be changed), everything disassembled to the last screw and cleaned. Seals, diaphragms are good, so I haven't changed them... http://imageshack.us/a/img821/9268/xgyh.th.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img837/78/1cv2.th.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img545/6746/b0yf.th.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img842/1279/7c01.th.jpg |
Sorry guys, long time no updates... :oops2:
While I'm working I don't have the time to go get the camera, etc., so mostly I take pictures with my phone, if I take pictures at all :innocent: But I promise I'll make some HQ pics when tinkering with my bike later on (and I will be, because the carb needs some more adjusting). If you have any specific spots you want to see please feel free to ask, once I'm taking pictures I will show you what you want to see. I ended up buying: Raptor 660 billet aluminum fuel mixture screws http://imageshack.us/a/img18/9027/yas6.th.jpg Raptor 660 air ducts http://imageshack.us/a/img18/8541/hiee.th.jpg RU-4710 K&N air filter and filter oil + cleaner http://imageshack.us/a/img853/254/ngck.th.jpg Outwears pre-filter (air filter cover) Honda CR throttle handle assembly http://imageshack.us/a/img837/8346/hpt6.th.gif Honda CR throttle cable Some "pit bike" throttle cable that had a 90 degree bend http://imageshack.us/a/img822/5948/cptc.th.jpg Mikuni pilot jets #22.5 and 27.5 (#25 was already installed) Mikuni main jets from #137.5 to #150 (#165 and #170 was installed) Mikuni small main jet #80 for choke (#95 was installed) Magura choke lever http://imageshack.us/a/img856/2386/vujb.th.jpg Jet needles were already some after market performance ones, so I was happy I "saved" on them :rofl: http://imageshack.us/a/img42/2571/osdb.th.jpg Moving on to the "work" station: the rubber cylinder head - carb boots were slightly modified, some excess rubber was cut out so that the carbs could go deeper in the boots. I had cut approximately 1-1.5mm, the "rim" that keeps the sealing collars (I guess that's what they are called) from moving too far to the carb side. Not in the pictures, but I'll make some pics later on... The carb itself was ground down in the places that touched the intake boots, also to make it slide deeper in the boots. Carb was re-jetted to Vando's specs (#25 pilots, #145 mains and needles on the second (I think) groove with thick plastic shims, which I later changed to #22.5 pilots and #142.5 mains, which are probably too lean... "to be continued"). Throttle handle, cable, 90 degree bend (from another cable I bought) were installed. http://imageshack.us/a/img59/1733/5elj.th.jpg Choke lever and cable installed (cable was re-used, the one I took the 90deg bend off). The choke cable was shortened, and a cable tip that came with the Magura choke lever was soldered on. http://imageshack.us/a/img22/4274/ffgz.th.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img812/2/kku3.th.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img801/5783/zny5.th.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img812/654/1iqj.th.jpg Both carb diaphragm breather pipes were cut, shortened to approximately 1cm, to make more room for the breather hoses so they could clear the frame. (picture with uncut pipes) http://imageshack.us/a/img594/856/08n5.th.jpg Then came the hard(er) part: how to join the Raptor 660 air filter-carb boots to the air filter? It had to be something simple, yet durable and small enough, so that the air filter is close enough to the carb that it clears the frame tubes. I got the joining part made from a 60mm metal pipe (yeah, I know, not too light, but heck, maybe in the future I'll get it made from aluminum). It came out great, with two attachments to the original air filter box mounts (the third had to be cut off the frame). It also had a crankcase breather pipe, so my headaches of "where to connect it!?" were finished. And the air filter won't wobble up and down under the seat... http://imageshack.us/a/img593/4893/8vgp.th.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img20/9697/ojnw.th.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img40/4863/xeog.th.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img856/9606/hxie.th.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img94/4323/hcnu.th.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img30/4883/udy1.th.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img30/4883/udy1.th.jpg Okay, now I need to cover the air filter and mount the battery somewhere. But where? I thought I might need to make a special mount for the battery, then make the covers from tin metal (very thin sheet metal). But that's a lot of unnecessary work... And a heavy custom part too. So I took my old air filter box, and started cutting it :devil2: I butchered it to the point where I had probably less than 60% of it left. So I saved the battery mount, flasher and fuse mounts, most of the mudguard surface. I also had it clearing the air filter and the metal pipe connector, so all good. http://imageshack.us/a/img202/4605/m61e.th.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img443/1262/w41l.th.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img546/1701/ludh.th.jpg Now I need to fit the seat - I cut it up too. http://imageshack.us/a/img9/6490/fxjm.th.jpg And now I must protect the air filter from all the crap the rear wheel will be throwing at it. So I made a small air filter protector from two bits of tin metal (thin sheet metal). Pop-riveted those two parts together and to the original (cut up) air filter box. Also used a piece of plastic sheet, like 3mm thick, to make a cover that doesn't allow water or mud running under the seat, on the sheet metal "lip", and under the air filter. Looks good :thumbup1: http://imageshack.us/a/img20/8372/ekp5.th.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img28/4752/vk68.th.jpg I'm off to the test drive! Whee! :scooter: I'm flying towards the forest, off the tarmac to the gravel road - hello potholes! DRRR! And the rear wheel touches the tin metal air filter guard :censored: it bent it a little. (see the previous picture - yeah, it's bent a little) Next day: I straightened it out, re-painted, and had to get the "heckhöherlegung" riser-thingy made. That's what I came up with after welding it from two pieces of scrap metal. The only thing I had to do was to cut off the shock's "spacers" (that tube where the top shock's bolt goes through). 25mm from a hole center to a hole center, gave around 5cm of lift in the back, now I can jump my bike and not worry about bending anything :cool4: http://imageshack.us/a/img62/8791/kdz9.th.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img9/1979/3s1d.th.jpg This carb woke up a new animal, a beast, inside the bike. It pulls very very well, has MUCH more power, although it still needs more adjusting of the carb, which I can't do right away as I have some other more important work to do. But still, it rides insanely well, and I do not regret doing his modification, even when it cost me around 400€ to complete. Many thanks to Vando (bacardi23) for sharing the experience in the same mod bier |
Steve, sorry mate, I don't understand what are you talking about :confused1:
Inhibiting the spark...? Actually my bike runs great now, besides of needing to adjust the carbs a bit. Can you explain what you meant to say? |
He postet in the wrong thread..
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Yoshimura Slip-On exhaust muffler for a Yamaha FZR600
Anyone know if this would work on a '93? Thanks
http://images.craigslist.org/00808_c...1R_600x450.jpg |
Just try it, wont do any harm anyway.
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Pic of exhaust
http://images.craigslist.org/01212_k...kL_600x450.jpg
Thoughts? It's $20.00. |
Tank Bag that fits
What tank bag have you found that fits well? Tall and skinny, my old one doesn't fit well.
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I don't have a tank bag. Yet.
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GUTTED!
Front fork swap 2.0 So, more than a year ago I had an idea to make a front fork swap for my XT. And it didn't end well (didn't even started!). I bought a 2003+ KTM EXC 525 wheel hub and axle, and I was after a front fork. I bought, what supposed to be a 2003 EXC 525, front fork. And it was a 2000 EXC 520... Pissed off, I sold the hub, sold the axle, scrapped the idea of a fork swap. Tried to sell the forks, but no one bought them... The forks were standing in a corner of my room for all this time, and the fork swap idea started brewing again. I don't have where to use the fork, nobody buys it, so heck, I might end up what I started! (plus 48mm front fork setup would be WAAAAY more expensive...) I bought the wheel (with a brake disc (not sure yet if it's truly straight) tire and axle), bought the caliper, steel braided brake hose and a Magura master brake pump (my original XT pump isn't worth reusing), 28mm handlebar risers (still missing the handlebars, in a worst case scenario I will temporarily use original XT risers and handlebars), new steering head bearings for the XT, new oil seals for the forks. Total spend so far ~600Euro. Today I received the bearings and gutted the bike's front end. My old bearings were horrible, lower bearing had quite a bit of rust and water (even though I greased everything well a couple of years ago). Off they went, and also the outer bearing races. A good friend 30 ton hydraulic press done some pumping and pressed out the KTM and Yamaha steering stems. OOOOHHHH boy was a happy! The steering stem diameter for the lower aluminum clamp is the same! 30mm! KTM http://imageshack.com/a/img585/3909/zb4l.jpg XT http://imageshack.com/a/img853/5647/m1b0.jpg Only the length of the stem that is pressed in the lower clamp is different. XT has 23mm and KTM has 29mm. XT http://imageshack.com/a/img24/8619/e5sy.jpg KTM http://imageshack.com/a/img34/6516/p598.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img33/231/dr0g.jpg Solutions? Not sure yet. I have two options: 1. Machine the bottom of the lower clamp to a ~32mm diameter, so that the steering stem goes 6mm further in the clamp. 2. Loose the retaining ring on the XT stem, press it in the lower clamp 6mm further than it would with the ring on, and then drill a 5mm hole through the clamp and stem, tap the hole for a 6mm bolt, and it would secure the stem to the clamp. But that seems to be a hillbilly way of doing it. And I want to do it right. Now let's say it's done. Then the lower triple will be in it's place, secured with all original XT nuts and bearings, and I'm a happy camper bier Then the top triple doesn't fit right. What to do? http://imageshack.com/a/img849/2427/lhnd.jpg Solutions? I only got one: 1. Cut off the top of KTM steering stem and make a "spacer" from it, drill it's hole to the diameter of the XT top clamp hole, and cut through the "spacer" so that it could compress when I'm tightening the top KTM clamp. http://imageshack.com/a/img600/2759/2pfq.jpg Even the original XT ignition switch will fit it! I will need other bolts (KTM 8mm XT 6mm) and to slightly shave off some aluminum off the top clamp, because right now the ignition lock is touching the clamp and the bolt holes don't quite align. http://imageshack.com/a/img534/5559/so8y.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img843/2007/ol5o.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img811/4343/tn3c.jpg Now... the last headache I have is how to replace the old top steering head bearing seal with a completely different new seal. I bought those from Pyramid Parts, and they are "Yamaha XT600 E 90-03" as described. Any ideas? Top one is old, bottom one is new. http://imageshack.com/a/img200/351/hw1q.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img822/9600/ajdl.jpg Comments, suggestions, etc. are welcome! |
Done. Sort of...
I've visited a "lathe master" on Friday. Cool dude. He's hitting 70 this year (round birthday), and in his living room, 2 meters away from his bed, he has a lathe. Yeah... that's what you get for working 49 years with lathes and stuff. So he trimmed all the parts I needed: bottom clamp, top clamp, and also made a spacer from a bit of a KTM steering stem. Lower part needed machining so that the XT steering stem presses 6mm deeper into the KTM lower clamp. I had the original KTM steering stem pressed back in the KTM lower clamp, and then the stem was machined along with the clamp (those extra 6mm). Then original KTM stem pressed out and XT's stem pressed in. TADAAAAMMMM! An "XTM" custom lower triple :thumbup1: http://imageshack.com/a/img801/5383/c3sh.jpg Sitting 6mm deeper than the "surface". http://imageshack.com/a/img600/416/sl1o.jpg Also machined the top clamp 2mm on both sides (to make the thickness the same as XT top clamp's thickness). http://imageshack.com/a/img198/5913/n7w6.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img203/3188/cwgr.jpg Spacer (which was later cut diagonally, so that it could compress). http://imageshack.com/a/img545/6901/bfmo.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img844/7771/fy1l.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img543/6893/8a3m.jpg Pressed down and greased the bearings up, and the clamps went in. The dilemma was how to make the steering stoppers. The solution might not be the prettiest one possible, but at least for now it's going to be okay. Until I think of something better. By the way, I still don't get it how the new Pyramid Parts top bearing seal must be used, and how it works (because it's different than the original) so I used both. http://imageshack.com/a/img823/3193/dre8y.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img34/1792/j0sy.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img716/5761/q3t8.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img691/9526/se4r.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img819/6679/3ii6.jpg Had to grind the top clamp a bit so the ignition lock fits. That's it. I also cut off the steering lock parts off the frame, spray painted it (will do until more mods and frame re-paint), kinda put it back together, bled the brakes and took it for a test ride. http://imageshack.com/a/img849/6096/31zl.jpg The forks doesn't have enough oil in them, the seals must be changed too, but already the forks work much better than the original XT forks, and the front feels lighter, easier wheelies. I have everything ready, now I just need a 2000 KTM EXC 520 repair manual to figure out how they disassemble. Polisport LMX headlight and Free Flow fender ordered. We're going from green to BLAAAAACK! Polisport LMX Halogen Lampenmaske SCHWARZ Scheinwerfer +BEFESTIGUNG Bike Enduro | eBay Polisport Schutzblech FREE FLOW Schwarz +BEFESTIGUNG Bike Fender Kotflügel | eBay Still need to buy: a speedometer (Trail Tech Vapor...?), 28mm handlebars, heavier/progressive front fork springs (??? don't know yet, need to rebuild the forks and ride a bit more to decide, they feel a bit soft for this heavier bike) and some stuff I might have forgotten now... Still need to do: rebuild the front fork (seals and oil change), sort out the wiring (it's okay, just doesn't fit well under the headlight...), lengthen the side stand, rebuild the front wheel (seals and bearings), probably make/buy new wheel spacers (old ones look worn), re-mount my enduro tire instead of this MX tire, and some other stuff along the way. |
good job! bier
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Monday: bought Renthal Twin Wall RC High handlebars. Little used, straight, top condition, and a price...half of what they cost new.
Tuesday: received the handlebars and fitted them immediately. Sweet! http://imageshack.com/a/img43/4857/qfit.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img513/9612/ov7r.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img34/7206/v07r.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img577/2978/x8au.jpg Today (Thursday) rebuilt the forks with new oil/dust seals and new oil. Old oil was pretty dark, with some metal particles. And from both fork legs only ~400ml came out, that's approximately half of what should come out. I cleaned everything, put back together, installed Pyramid Parts seals and filled with Repsol 5W fork oil. Both legs were filled with ~400ml each (each leg) leaving oil level at 120mm from top. http://imageshack.com/a/img853/8193/q19jf.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img600/4008/pu0j.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img208/4185/o5mg.jpg Still waiting for the headlight and the fender to be shipped... |
I had Pyramid Parts oil/dust seals installed in my original XT fork two years ago. Held up well, just the right side dust seal sometimes wanted to pop up... The XT clip for holding the seals (both) in place didn't fit with Pyramid's seals.
As for KTM fork they fitted perfectly, and we'll see how they hold up. But I still don't get it how the top steering stem bearing seal should work... :confused1: Now for the cockpit there will be a Trail Tech speedo with the indicator lighting kit, just need to order it. The biggest challenge will be CLEANLY sorting out the wiring. Headlight and fender shipped to me yesterday. Mmmm... The smell of NEW. http://imageshack.com/a/img35/471/3a83.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img268/2325/53k8.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img706/6156/xs7l.jpg |
Fitted the new stuff.
http://imageshack.com/a/img32/504/hbbf.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img36/8162/tg62.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img42/864/6kvo.jpg Polisport universal fender fittings worked great, no drilling required. Fender will stay on. Relocated the brake line guide. http://imageshack.com/a/img837/5053/mm62.jpg The headlight is temporarily fitted. I will have to make a set of aluminum headlight holders (instead of these plastic ones, don't mistake them for the rubber clamps!). The holders will also have to function as the mountings for the blinkers. Also the Xenon HID kit will have to be re-installed, and the ballast relocated (along with the relays probably). http://imageshack.com/a/img844/5083/scd5.jpg Tiny problem: the rubber clamp hooks are hitting the gas tank on the left side. Will probably have to cut them off... http://imageshack.com/a/img62/7951/9olx.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img839/508/7ky2.jpg Plenty of space for the Trail Tech Vapor... http://imageshack.com/a/img69/7961/0q9s.jpg |
Ugh! Yes! After a year or so since the bike was re-painted, the color/clear coat of the paint started bubbling in some places. Firstly around the petcocks. Then under the seat (a huge bubble, not visible though with the seat on), then smaller bubbles here and there (I popped them with a needle, pressed with a finger and they are invisible).
But only the color/clear coat, primer is staying on stuck to the plastic. I had started considering wrapping the plastics with a black vinyl sticker. Now I might only wrap the gas tank, and the plastics will be changed along the way during other mods...? We'll see. |
The only solution would be to coat/seal the tank from the inside, so the fumes cant go through.
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How would you seal a plastic gas tank from the inside?
There's two options, I guess: 1. get a black gas tank (or other color you want that is possible to obtain) 2. wrap the gas tank in vinyl When wrapping I think the problem would remain, but the vinyl sticker is easier to "repair" than paint coats. Sticker should be "lifted" in a form of bubble, just like the paint. You could then just pop the bubble and smoothen out the surface with a finger, and it would be pretty much invisible that something happened there. But paint cracks, falls off... And you're screwed. |
I have used Caswell on 4 tanks, good stuff. I do have a bubble appearing on one tank since gas has been in it. I suspect I did not get it coated completely. It takes quite some time to get it all around the inside. This tank had the restricted unleaded filler and I could not shine a light all around to see. I guess I'll get another smaller kit and do it again concentrating on the area in question then fix the paint bubble...:helpsmilie:
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Ohhh, that looks like a possible solution :thumbup1:
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Done some shopping :thumbup1:
Ordered (finally!): Trail Tech Vapor speedo (stealth) Trail Tech Vapor dashboard Motion Pro fork bleeders MSR forged clutch lever with perch (my original one is too worn and wobbly, can't stand it) MSR front wheel bearing/seal kit MSR front wheel spacers All Balls front fork oil seal/dust seal kit, as my Pyramid Parts oil seal on left side fork leg is leaking oil (can't blame it on the manufacturer, it might be my fault, as right side fork leg is OKAY) and so that I don't mess up the seals again(???) Motion Pro fork seal driver and Motion Pro bullet. http://imageshack.com/a/img540/1406/ggQTHo.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img540/7140/54avCV.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img911/4915/BVBITf.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img539/3716/vE4nMz.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img661/3855/m7jDqo.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img912/6987/WLbS3I.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img538/7240/FeVL1r.jpg Installation pictures will be uploaded once I receive the parts bier |
At last the parts have arrived. I have installed the fork bleeders, not much to show there. Also installed the clutch lever (and immediately chopped it off to my required length, haha). I also installed the Vapor speedo and dash. The wiring isn't complicated, so not much to show there too.
I tapped into the orange wire (CDI to Ignition Coil) for the RPM, and for the speedo I'll need another sensor (this one is a plastic one, I need a screw-in type, like KTM original). The most complicated bit was mounting it. With lots of cardboard templates I made a crude mount from some 3mm scrap aluminum. It's mounted under one side of the ignition lock and there's one screw hole in the top triple (elongated mounting holes are there because the "legs" of the mount are 2-3mm too short). So all good Now I'll force my friend to make an autocad 3D drawing of it and laser cut it (and headlight mounts) from a new piece of aluminum. http://imageshack.com/a/img540/9620/UnCqm0.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img673/2191/pzvrsn.jpg The engine needs a rebuild now. More here: http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...uy-where-78159 |
I'm slowly buying the parts needed for an engine rebuild...
So far I've bought a 10:1 Wiseco forged piston, TKRJ connecting rod, NOS cam chain, K&N oil filter and Repsol oil, valve guide seals. I still need a cam sprocket, but also I want to replace the lower sprocket, the only problem is I can't find it for sale... Also bought, shortened, got welded, and adapted a new side stand off an Aprilia RXV 550. Sexy, aluminum, and Italian :cool4: now I just need a new spring and it's good to go. http://imageshack.com/a/img745/8769/QbbPn3.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img538/1098/vKi8Te.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img537/8219/12uG9v.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img746/9093/bS6Krf.jpg |
The rebuild is going slow due to work, but I should finish it when the warm weather - the riding season comes :)
Meanwhile, here's a pic of the sweet sweet honed cylinder. http://imageshack.com/a/img908/504/uQUjJv.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img538/1047/IraXO2.jpg |
When I bore my cylinders I take a face mill and just kiss the top gasket surface to make them perfectly flat and square with the bore. .003" is all need usually unless a person wants to up the compression just a bit, I've taken .012" off my last one and slotted the cam sprocket holes so timing can be adjusted. Usually non of this is necessary but I'm anal about stuff like that.
I'm keeping an eye out for one of those Aprilla sidestands , most are way different than yours. |
Soooo... back to the bike, during my free time.
The engine is completely disassembled. I've bought a gasket kit, Athena. Also all the oil seals of the right dimensions. As for the engine bearings I decided to keep the existing bearings, as they are in perfect condition. As well as all the gears and stuff. Everything looks great, I'm happy. The flywheel would not require a rebuild if not for the piston pin seat... it got a bit scored and the play (of the new piston pin) in the old con rod is too big compared to a play in the new con rod. The bearing in the con rod had no play, and I would not have gone to lengths to rebuild it. Only when disassembled the crankshaft showed some wear. It took 7 tonnes on one side and 10 tonnes on the other side to press out the con rod bearing pin. I've ordered a micrometer and two micrometer holders (because one micrometer I already had). Should arrive next week. In the meantime, today, I made myself a led hammer. I'll need that later on to true the crankshaft. Probably next week. So now what still waits: rebuild the crankshaft strip off the old paint off the engine re-paint the engine re-assemble it rebuild the cylinder head and give it some porting Not much, but with little time it's not going to be done soon. But I hope I'm wrong :) http://imageshack.com/a/img540/5905/ZTHynt.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img633/9050/AJVXC1.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img537/1765/dgp6Vw.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img661/2787/Oz09WZ.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img905/6296/WEIAtM.jpg |
How are you planning to press the crank back together perfectly lined up with each other, it is critical in pretty much every aspect to be aligned, not just straight. I've seen plates with the shape of the crank hubs for the top and bottom of the press so both halves are trued when they go together. I'd love to setup for doing these, be easy to do stroker cranks then !
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I don't have any cleaver jig to help me out, and I don't have the materials at the moment to make one. So I'll need to figure it out as I go.
Even if I would have a jig, the crank would still need to be trued with the two micrometers (one might be enough though) I have ordered and a led hammer that I made from scraps yesterday (copper hammer would do just fine too, or even better). I think I'll do something like this (start watching at 3:40): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HxcWz4D7BmA And truing: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=saARVyy4pdY |
http://imageshack.com/a/img538/1098/vKi8Te.jpg
Kind of surprised you didn't drop the motor. Is there enough room for me to do base gasket with motor still in frame? |
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I didn't have much room on the shelves at the moment, and I didn't want the engine laying on the floor, so I left it in the frame. Until now, and now it's completely disassembled, I wonder how I'll put it all back together :rofl: easily, maybe... Mezo, I would gladly make something like that on my lathe, but I don't have a piece of metal big enough for that, haha! So an engineer's square will do for now, probably... |
Crank halfway done...
Today I have reassembled the crank back together. Turned out quite well, looks pretty close to being true, but I'll check that next day with a micrometer, after I make a jig to hold up the crank while I'm turning it and measuring. Firstly I pressed the pin into the right side crank half, where the oil feed is. After careful measuring I calculated that I need a 0.5mm washer to stop the pin from going too far, so that the oil feed passages are directly on top of each other. Then came the bearing and the con rod. The engineer's square got me a bit off at the first try, when I pressed the second half on (not fully on though). After the second try I got it spot on (I think :innocent: ). Big end side clearance is 0.35-0.65mm so I made it 0.5mm, the golden middle. But the crank is not 75mm wide, but 73.95mm wide, but the width is consistent over all perimeter. I think the big end side clearance is more important that the overall width... So that's it for now, truing to come. I don't know how my led hammer will perform, as it needed 15+ tonnes to press it all back together :rolleyes2: To be continued... http://imageshack.com/a/img538/3471/SRQOEM.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img673/3513/EtloC4.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img540/1487/SnAEaV.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img912/1025/59h8J6.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img540/3563/ljvsek.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img537/9471/QgUUWr.jpg |
I'd say the clearance between the rod and crank halves is the key measurement like you said. I like to put things on the tight side of tolerances, keeps stuff quiet. The thrust on the side bearings can be adjusted with shims but to an extent. Total length between bearing shoulders must be held also to keep the crank from moving side to side.
Be fussy about things now, it'll pay off down the road with a smooth motor. How heavy is that lead hammer? might take a bit of pounding to get it to move. I like that jig Mezo posted , it should help keep those 2 halves lined up . As long as the hammer can get them to move and get into spec. :thumbup1: |
Done! Done! Done!
After making a simple jig to hold up the crank, I trued it with a micrometer. At the beginning it was 0.15mm off center at the shafts. So I got it pretty close with an engineer's square. With a bit of hammering I got it to 0.01mm at the right side and 0.02mm at the left side. Since around 0.04mm is okay (as far as I know), I got it better than required, and I'm happy about finishing the task I was dreading the most bier My led hammer is a bit over 2kg in weight. Took quite a bit of beating... It looks like the crank isn't moving, but it actually is. My crank didn't have any shims at the big end bearing, also the con rod kit didn't include any shims, so I made it as it was. Now I need some paint stripper, some paint, stainless bolts for all the engine, do the cylinder head and it can be reassembled. http://imageshack.com/a/img537/1668/wuGBba.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img540/8193/TVhEts.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img901/2738/Z0rTLk.jpg http://imageshack.com/a/img540/5857/eDB3Jf.jpg |
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Hello, where did you get the jets? What kinds did you end up with? Did you find all the correct parts you needed? I have ordered the carbs, and i will order the intake manifoilds as well. What kind of cables did u end up using? Looking forward to a reply. Fingers crossed:scooter::scooter: Ended up ordering these carbs: https://www.ebay.com/itm/392631109475 Any 1 know what kind of jets is used? Where i can order correct for the xtz 660? |
Zergamn = Belsm?
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I think not, Blesm just messed the quote up, fixed now. |
BTW - a tip on truing cranks - you can put it in a vise, kinda crossways a bit, using soft alloy jaws of course, and squeeze to align the wheels. Used to do two stroke cranks all the time that way. Then squeeze the faces or put a chisel in between to align the other direction. Rarely used a hammer except on the chisel.
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