DR650 Prep for Long Haul
 

I'm the lucky owner of a new (to me) 2006 DR650. The deal was just too good
to pass up. The bike came with 4.9 gal. IMS tank, FMF Q2 pipe, Corbin seat,
stock rack, TT engine case protector plates, Utah skid plate, extra new sprockets, all stock parts (never used), license plate mod done, air screw drilled, added, charger, all this and only 733 miles showing on the clock. Truly showroom condition and of course it was a good bargain.

So now begins the task of fitting some decent mods. I'm starting with jetting
as the bike was a bit lean and popping badly on de-cel. This will be ongoing.

I'm also thinking about luggage. Soft or Hard? I like soft bags for their narrow, small quality, but that hot pipe will have to be dealt with. I'm working on building a stand off. I'm looking at tank panniers as well but worry about adding weight up front when off road in deep sand.

Thoughts on this?

I've seen the Pelikans but they seem quite large, GIVI's too.

Also thinking about putting the bike on a major diet without compromising
comfort, utility or safety.

So far I have removed:
Passenger pegs.
Rear license plate light and assembly
helmet lock (ground clean off frame)

I will going though and replacing some bolts with Aluminium in unstressed
locations. There are several places on the bike with thick steel brackets
and way over sized steel bolts that I intend to remove or study.

I may re-do the entire headlight assembly, losing the speedo, stock light,
front subframe and going with a tri beam Acerbis off road light, Panoram speedo. Thoughts?

I also intend to remove the HUGE turn signals and go with small ones on
flexible rubber stocks.

I need frame guards of some kind. Anyone do this? My boots will quickly make
a mess of the frame rails.

I may replace the tail light with the off road, low profile one. The stock one
is a bit vulnerable but very bright. (bright is good)

Enough for now, pics to follow.

Patrick
:scooter:

The Virgin
http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...05477349-M.jpg

put small indicators on only if you dont want anyone to see them. their there for a reason, ok they may break in a fall but atleast you wont get knocked off turning .
whats your plans for the bike, mud sand gravel long distance short trails.
these bikes are pretty good stock so you wont have to do much but remember for every tuning engine mod you may sacrifice some reliability.
alloy bolts in steel frame sound like youll be rounding them off constatly. the different metals are likely to sieze more easilly especially if your getting it wet and dirty, which i hope you intend to.

i was always led to believe popping on decel was due to richness not leanness, therefore i would guess your pilot jets too big and your main is too small. does it start really easy from cold with no choke?? a sign that its rich on pilot jet. dont just start changing stuff and drilling out jets till you know what your doing and the effects of the changes you make.
Adjust one part of the carb at a time, eg main jet, then pilot and then needle clip. or before long youll end up with a bike that doesnt run at all.

Thanks for the tips.

Actually, popping on de-cell is definitley the result of a lean condition.

A long time friend owns Factory Pro, they know a bit about tuning and have
help me out on several singles I've owned.... Since my XL600R back in 1987.
Actually, they kind of "invented" jet kits and dyno tuning...or re-invented it?
Check it out.
http://www.factorypro.com/

BTW, swapping out to a larger pilot eliminated the popping of decell completely. Sorted. The bike runs perfect, much better than stock.
I'm hoping the fuel economy will still be over 50 mpg.

You are correct about mixing of disimiliar metals. As a former A&P mechanic
(aircraft) I am well versed in electrolosis and the results of same. A good heads up nonetheless.:thumbup1: I think there are a couple nonstressed points on the DR where fasteners are overbuilt. Its these I will focus on.

I'll be riding in mixed conditions but lots of rough pavement, dirt roads, pot
holes and such. No motocrossing or desert racing mind you. I have a race
bike for that. :scooter:

I'm working on Stand offs to protect soft luggage from the hot pipe.
I have a proto type, will post pics at some point.

Cheers,

Patrick:D

Fuel economy/range is important to me at times, so I left the bike stock. That 4.9 doesn't last long if you're at speed, sucking fuel. Maybe with an 8.9 gal Aqualine....

I wouldn't want to loose the odo. It's very useful when trying to follow maps in furrin countries....no signs, etc.

I like the BBQ rear rack, now renamed 'Diamondback' rack.

The chain rollers should be upgraded, from what I've read. Still need to do mine.

I added an inline fuel filter. They're cheap, available at all major auto pats stores....made for lawn mowers. By using stiffer automotive fuel line, the filter is well supported and doesn't require clamps. The 1/4" line can be pushed over 5/16" inlets/outlets. You know as well as anyone here what can come out of barrel gas. Clean carbs save trips...:)

My DR isn't a dirt bike, but a light(er) touring bike...that can get me into trouble if I choose that path. :)

Also, Suzuki offers their extended warranty for up to 4 or 5 years....with no limits on mileage. It's available to the original and 2nd owners, if purchased before the factory warranty expires. I will be a customer of this extended warranty as I plan to exceed 50k miles in the 1st year. Also valuable when selling the bike.

Congrats on the new bike Patrick,

FWIW, my KLR pops out the exhaust on decel here in the mountains of Ecuador, when I am closer to sea level it doesn{t. Naturally it runs stinking rich at high altitude, so don{t assume your bike is lean. Friends of mine that have used jet kits that richen the mixtures have had trouble at altitude.

Peruvian border tomorrow!

Hi Andy,
Man, you are covering some ground! Be careful out there man! Drink some
Chicha for me (Aymara beer!), have a Saltena, Ricoto Relleno's and enjoy
the Chefa's in Lima.

I must be mixed up...I could have sworn backfiring was a sign of lean-ness....
what you've said and my testing tday reveals that you are right and I'm wrong!!:eek3:

My apologies to Smokin Rider. I'll look into this. Thanks for the heads up.
Damn, one thing for sure....don't get old.

Exploring my back yard on the Blue Virgin Today!
http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...05681144-M.jpg

Rode my new DR for about 150 miles today.
Wow, this bike is weird. But fun. Even though I had a testbike DR last year for over a month I'd totally forgotten the "nature" of the bike.
But fun and pretty nimble, very easy to ride. I really enjoy slow cruising on it. Still, my Vstrom would murder it everywhere at the limit on all
but the tightest roads or dirt..... and with better comfort to boot. Oh well, I think I'm going through a "Period of Adjustment".

The suspension lacks damping and sophistication. I can fix that.

That Diamond back rack is interesting. You can carry a LOT of stuff on
there. Wonder how the sub frame will handle the weight?

The Corbin passes a LOT of vibes to the riders butt and must weigh 30 lbs.:cursing: Nice flat platform if not a bit firm....I think the compadres down in Hollister must be using dried Horse Shit to stuff that seat with...and lead.

Any chance the DR mill will smooth out with miles? (mine has about 800 miles on it now) My KTM Duke really smoothed out after about 2000 miles.

I succeeded in eliminating the power surge. The bike runs well but isn't blazingly fast. More jetting changes to follow, but bottom line is that it has to
get at least 45 MPG on the highway at 70mph. I think I can achieve this.

I plan to run some sort of ODO and may just stick with the stock set up
and headlight. You can run all kinds of bicycle odo's that have multiple trip meters. The DR has a crummy odo which goes only to 100 miles, same as my XR250. How can this be? Its mechanical and heavy. A nice digi Panoram might be nice. Then you can lose the cable and a lot of useless crap.

I've heard about the chain rollers. The stockers really are poor quality. I wonder how they let that slip by for so long? :nono: On my list.

Fuel filter is a great idea. I'll check out the auto parts store. Also, I think its probably a good idea to pull out that IMS petcock from time to time for a cleaning... what do you think?:detective:

Thanks for the heads up on the extended warranty. How much is it? Sounds like a plan. I too intend to do some miles but no where near 50K in a YEAR!!! :clap: That's a serious commitment! Go for it. I'll be lucky to make 10K this year.

Patrick


These roads are part of the Sunday morning ride in Marin County
along US Highway One. Perfect venue for the DR! Just don't screw up or
you'll need a parachute!
http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...681191-M-1.jpg

no problem, its just the plug on my dr is black as your hat and it pops like a chinees firework factory on fire. it looks great though when it spits flames out. the poppings due to the unburnt fuel ignighting in the hot exhaust.

you seem to know your stuff so i wont drone on,
do a plug chop and check the plug colour, adjust main jet as required,
set the tickover up then fiddle with the pilot screw( Jesse @ keintech might be able to get you a t screw one of these so you dont have to keep taking the carb off to get to it) to get the highest rpm on tick over then readjust the tickover screw to get that set to the right rpm. ride it and depending on how it feels up or down on the needle to get it smooth.

My odo reads to 999.9 which is plenty for my needs.

The BBQ rack is the only one I've found of substantial size and it handles a large MotoFizz style bag very well.

To achieve your goal of 45mpg you can't run at high speeds. I've gotten as low as the high 20s at 90mph for extended miles, around 50 at 65-70mph and around town riding, low 40s at 75mph or so. Pushing wind sucks the fuel fast.

I'm using a tall Parabellum wind screen which is great for highway travel., but dangerous for dirt work. Using wingnuts and thumb screws, I can remove it within a couple of minutes and store it under a net on the rear. I prefer the nekkid bike and will leave it that way when not traveling high speeds for long miles.

I'll probably only clean the petcock if it becomes blocked. Blowing air thru the fuel hose, back thru the tank, might clear ir...dunno.

What Andy typed about the high altitudes and jetting was good. That's another reason I wanted to retain the stock setup. At 14,000 ft, I'm not sure if I'd have the energy to even change a plug. :)

The warranty is pretty cheap, imo. Something like $540 for 4 or 5 years extended. Just over $100 per year, you pick the numder of years. It's offered thru the dealers.

Having raced two stroke enduro bikes I know about plug chops.
Yesterday I did exactly as you described above and the idle cleaned
right up beautifully, very smooth.

I still think I may be just a tad rich so I'm going back to the stock pilot (42.5 on US 49 state model) I've got a 45 in there with two shim on the stock needle. It actually runs very well, no jumps in power, smooth linear. But overall power, I think could be better.

It starts from cold with no choke, so maybe its a bit rich?

Cheers!
:scooter:

Patrick

Thanks for the info!
 

You're totally right on the ODO, my mistake, I'm still learning this bike! :blushing:

My buddy Bob tested a big MotoFizz mounted on his Tiger on our last Mex. trip. Its huge, maybe too complicated. I have a Wolfman, a Cor-tec and the new Nelson Rig. The Nelson Rig is the best but small for a RTW bag. Perfect weekend bag though. It's stiff and stays supported and like the Fizz, every compartment is expandable but easier to use, IMO.

Great tips, thanks. I tried different cruising speeds yesterday. 70 to 75 seems
fine for me, and on nice roads I'm slowing down more to take in the scenery.
Must be getting senile:helpsmilie:

Great! I agree about preferring the naked bike but a screen is a must for the long hauls. I'm looking at screens. Are they all handlebar mounted?

By the time I'm done fiddling with jetting my bike will be as lean and economical as stock. Guaranteed. Since the bike is going on a serious weight reduction program, part of that is getting rid of the stock boat anchor pipe which is unbelievably heavy. So basically I'm jetting for the FMF. Once thats
done....I'm done and it should run well at altitude.....but nothing is going to do well at 14K ft!!

I am going to talk to Suzuki about this. Cheap insurance indeed!

I saw your stuff for sale on ADV. When are you heading out? November
if I recall? Perfect timing! Hope you'll post more ride reports or link your
videos somewhere.

Patrick
:scooter:

It mounts to the forks and handle bars. It's big, comfy on-highway...and I can always leave it somewhere if it becomes tiresome to carry on back. It actually gives me more protection than the AeroFlow did on the big GS.

I'll be curious to see how your jetting, etc comes along. I was originally planning the airbox, pipe and dyno kit mods, but after hearing about the loss of fuel economy decided against it. I'd also like to ditch some weight.

The speedo reads 5mph fast.

Yes, you do gets some strong vibes thru the seat. :(
I recently installed some new foam grips on the bars and should know how well they do or don't work within a week.

Late Nov departure...

getting shot of the stock pipe in favour of a good aftermarket one is a good way of saving a fair bit of weight as well as letting it breathe better which will increase its poke. obviously youll have to go back to square one ishe and rejet to suit the pipe. a few 1" holes in the top of the air box should also help it breathe better.
check out www.keintech.com very helpful with jetting queries an mods for all dr's. if its been done jesse there will probably know about it. may also be able to advise on your suspension setup.

Also.........

You might find the side stand too long, especially when loaded.
I need to remove 1/2-3/4" from mine.

The odo is spot-on.

Yea, I've already noticed the side stand is a bit long. Just have to find some
place right to park. Loaded this may be a hassle. I may go for an stiffer spring
at some point....not sure yet. Anyone know the ideal sag on the DR? Most
Dual sport and dirt bikes like about 3" to 3.5"

I'll be testing air box and jetting mods in the next couple weeks. I've got the
FMF which is too loud and requires repacking way too often. If you ignore repacking it gets REALLY LOUD. The FMF is light weight and beautiful but it may be going on the block. Remus require NO repacking, are quieter and made of Titanium...stronger and better wear than Aluminium. I have had a set on
my Vstrom since 2002. Best pipes I've ever owned.

Jesse is on my to call list.

I am shopping shields too. Post some pics of yours, I'd like to check it out.

On the seat....do you have a Corbin? or stock? Other? I'm thinking maybe its
partly the Corbin letting the vibes get through. Wonder if the stock one is
the same?

Tonight I installed ProTapers....its never easy!! :mad2:

Also a trick LED license plate light, the PO eliminated the entire license holder and light. Next I swapped out the HUGE and ugly stock signals for small (and cheap) turn signals that look much better and are nearly as bright as stock.

I found three unused 12 volt switched plugs available too. Nice. One up in the headlight, another above the shock and a third on the right near the CDI box.

Anyone know for certain the alternator output of this bike? I heard 200 watts,
is that right?

I custom made gromets to allow the use of my stock bar ends on the ProTaper bars. I got the Protapers in a trade from a guy on the Vstrom list.
I've had them for over a year....finally got something to use them on.
The mounting kit cost $40 :eek3: They look great...I will post pics next
week.

I'm building a custom tool kit for the DR as well. I've also found a trick place to stash my two 9 inch tire irons down in the skid plate (Utah) on the right side along the frame rail, zipped tied in. Wrapped in inner tube, they are secure, won't vibrate or do damage. Perfect.

This weekend I'm pump shopping at bicycle shops. Need a trick tiny one. I could go with an electric pump or CO'2's, but in the end a pump always seems
to be best. Not much storage space on a DR, not like the cavernous Vstrom.
On the Strom I've got stuff stashed in the fairings, side panels and the huge
area under the seat. Great bike for storage.

I've ordered the countershaft sprocket spacer for the 15 tooth sprocket to get rid of the "clicking" sound. Also Iridium dual element plugs and a replacement for the lower chain roller which is prone to failure.

The stock chain is a low spec 525 DID O ring. A good chain but if I were heading to Central America I'd get the DID 525 VM X-ring. It will last double of the stocker or longer.

I may also sell off the IMS 4.9 gallon tank. The quality is crap, the finish
junk and I don't need that much fuel. Acerbis make a 4 gallon tank that looks
and feels much smaller. This for the future.

Additional mods :

1. I'm hoping Fast Way will do pegs for the DR. If not then I'll go with IMS pro
series wide pegs. I've got them on my XR, had them on two other dirt bikes.
Really reduces fatigue while standing for hours dirt riding.

2. Wrap header pipe. Engine runs cooler, will get better mileage.

3. Shield of some kind....no idea which.

4. Experimenting with soft bags but may end up with hard bags.

5. Tires. Mefo and other endurance tires.

6. Heated Symtec grips.

7. Louder horn. (relay)

Should keep my busy for a while.

Patrick:scooter:

That's 5 extended on top of the 1 factory?

Patrick
 

I like my translucent 4.9 IMS. Fits well and I can see how fast I'm sucking the fuel, do mental calculations if needed, and slow down or keep shoveling the coal to her. Finally, I have a real fuel gauge. :)

A stock 49 State tank is 3.4 (CA is 3.2). So, a 4 gal would give you an additional 20-30 miles - not that much more.
Hell, if San Fran and El Arco were out, you're gonna be doing some praying between Bay of LA and Vizcaino. :)

I figure the 4.9 gives me a solid 200+ miles unless I'm romping on it. That Aqualine is dear, but I'd like to have one.

I'd also like to try some larger foot pegs.

I still haven't solved my hand guard problem. I just hate buying stuff until I'm fairly certain that it's the ticket for me.

Am I typing 'I' enough? :)

I bought the AeroStich wrap-on heated grip thingies. They take a couple of minutes to put on...and really work. No problems losing heat thru bars and grips. But they are another thing to store when not being used....

Lots of guys are going the Spitfire and Nat'l Cycle wind screen route. My Prabellum is huge compared to those - a barn door.

Also wired (w/fuse) a cheap marine 12v outlet to the battery and mounted it under the BBQ. The inexpensive Airman plugs in quick, and I can recharge batts for cams while on the road.

Personally, I think the CO2 route makes no sense for touring as they have to be replenished - 1 time use. Donde es el paintball gun llanta? Did you ever use one and then later realise that you left the valve core out? I must have aired up other guys tires 6 or 7 times when in CC a few weeks ago using the cheap Airman, with a gauge (mine is accurate). A backup bike pump makes survival sense, but that's a lot of work and won't seat a tire bead. Also, the air pumps weigh next to nothing. A better survival pump might be a spare air pump with the guts removed from the housing... There's 12v on any '68 Ford passing by.

I like your search-for-storage, and I need to find my own system. :thumb
Those are gonna be hot tar arns. :)
Personalizing a new bike isn't always a quicky, but is kinda fun.

Patrick ,
This is an interesting project , I have always thought that the DR was the most promising of the 650 thumpers . [It appeals to my tastes anyway ]

When you are done with the mods and have some serious miles on this bike, a head to head comparison with the V Strom would make great reading .

All the Best
Dodger

Really good point. I ran out of gas TWICE on our DR test bike, and
that was in civilization!! :helpsmilie: No guarantees about fuel availability down south....then you've got things like wrong currency difficulties, stations closed and who knows what.

I think in moderate touring mode you'll go further than 200 miles if your jetting is right. In my testing over the weekend I did 175 mi. till reserve and this includes spilling some gas a few times, hammering it to red line and doing stretches at 100mph indicated (all in the interest of testing of course)

Once on reserve I kept going, climbed Mt.Tam (sea level to 3K ft.) "at speed" mostly full throttle for 30 miles, then back into town where it ran dry at 38 miles. I carried an Acerbis 1 gallon backup "Jug" on the bike, but as it turns out when it died I just wiggled the bike a bit and rode a couple miles to a station. There was still gas in the tank!! (maybe a quart or so? Hard to see) I'm quite sure in more moderate use I could make 50 miles on reserve.

I figure the main tank with moderate to fast riding will go 220 to reserve no
problem, maybe more. Then add an easy 40 to that number for reserve.

BTW....when (or if) your ever run your IMS dry you'll find it actually takes
5.3 gallons of gas!

BTW, I pulled the air box snorkel off for last 100 miles of this test, the other 100 the bike was running richer. Now the bike now runs like a raped ape. Straight up and down wheelies through first and 2nd gear all on the throttle.

So this is what I've got:
Main: 140 (stock, I believe)
Pilot: 45 (stock is 42.5)
Air Screw : about 1.5 turns out
Needle: Stock needle with two shim washers.
Air Box: Snorkel removed, no other mods. Stock air filter.
FMF Q2 pipe.

I can't express strongly enough HOW MUCH MORE FUN THIS BIKE IS TO RIDE
NOW!! :scooter: Huge improvement to my earlier test rides and driveability is
still perfect everywhere. :clap:

I will do another economy test next week. I now officially hate the Tripmeter.
All you have to do is bump it and you've LOST your reading, its not a pop out
type stem as it should be. Crap. This could screw you on a trip in the middle
of no where, no? Go ahead, bump your trip meter! Sigma BC800 on order.
(bicycle computer)

Wide pegs are very nice. Not a total necessity but on long tours I think you'll
like 'em. Of course the prices are highway robbery.

Hand Guards are a personal thing. Go to a dirt bike riding area and see what
guys are using. There are MANY and some won't fit well on the DR. They will
really save your HANDS, levers and brake resevoir in a fall.

I don't like those things. I totally lose feel with the bike. The Symtec ones
are $30 or $35 and will COOK your hands and only draw 30 watts.

I like something small, mimimal coverage.

Good thing to have.

Its hard and the only real way to know for sure is to take it on the road.
Every bike is different. I'm learning the DR too. I've never taken a single
on the road for more than a six weeks. So I'm not sure on some stuff.
The Corbin seat actually works pretty well but it ain't no Vstrom seat.
Still, I can see 300 mile days after some Butt-ditioning. (500 on the Vstrom)

Patrick
:scooter:

Tire Iron stash spot!
http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...06446668-M.jpg
http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...06446677-M.jpg

I'll be very! interested in your future fuel economy tests...and the controls you use. :thumb

The Fastway pegs on my GS are like freaking 'steps', very comfy.

I've done several 450 miles days on her so far, but that's stopping every 100 miles or each hour for a short water/cig break, letting the butt get a break. It's no long haul machine, but short breaks make me ready to ride again. Going from nut-hugging the tank to sliding back...and repeat, gets me more miles.

The bar ends mounting is wimpy, easy to push them out. Maybe after you settle on the right bars, just spray glue them in...dunno.

I'm not using a tank bag. The simple Dirt Bagz take it's place...even better.

This is fun. :) Ride on, guy....

Bags
 

I'm using the Happy Trails bags on my DR 650.

The soft bags are OK but will not keep out prying fingers in when the bike is not being watched !!:thumbup1:

I agree for security, totally, but I won't use hard bags/boxes off road.

I've done a bit of this in my longish Vstrom rants on the Suzuki tech forums
and such. Remember, we had an '05 DR650 test bike last year for about 4 months. I had it to myself for about 6 weeks. We put 3500 miles on it.

My current bike has quite a few good mods from the stock bike. The seat is a big improvement and jetting changes have perked up the bike as well.

I'll let you know how it goes. I plan to more off road stuff, Utah, Baja and
maybe a venture into Mexico and Central America. Ultimately, if you don't need to do super rough roads or dirt....the Vstrom is the better bike.

More room, smoother, for comfy, faster, almost zero maintenance, better two
up.

But as soon as things turn muddy, sandy, rocky or rutted you'll want the
DR650. Its a great bike....Hell....they're BOTH great bikes! That's why I"ve got one of each:thumbup1: :clap:

Patrick:scooter:

More to follow.....

Drive chain
 

Loose the stock chain for a quality DID X - ring as long as the sprockets are new. I had the stock chain on one of my DR's snapping after some 12000 km and way from wear limits. The chain broke a side plate through the hole, the link then disintegrated and the chain dropped out onto the street without getting entangled.
I was lucky to get a dirt cheap combined harvester type 525 roller chain which did 2000 km back to Cape Town with no problems although it needed adjusting on a daily basis. On the same trip I had a second DR of similar mileage and we also replaced the chain after the other bike had snapped its chain. (DR #3 was on a brand new X - Ring and doing fine. The stock chains were wearing quite unevenly after only a few thousand km and the uneven slack and cheap quality seem to take their tribute as I heard from other bikes with snapped low mileage stock drive chains. The DID X-ring easily do 30000km+ mostly on dirt roads with Castrol Chain Wax.

Like comparing apples and tomatoes. They have nothing in common beyond the Suzuki name. The VS is a road bike with high bars, high exhaust and enduro tyres. Reminds me of the scrambler fad in the 70's.

The VS engine is more powerfull, even at low revs, smoother. The bike is heavier and the suspension rock hard by comparison.

I just got to test ride the VS of my friend here in Adana and I've got a DR myself.

Thanks mate , no offence but I am aware that the bikes are not alike .
Patrick is a very knowledgeable guy and is doing some very interseting mods to his new bike .My point was that when he is done with the mods and has a chance to test out the bike ,what would be his impressions of the modified bike [and I stress "modified "] as compared to a VStrom .
I quite fancy a DR myself and would snatch one up if I could find one locally for the right price .
A very good South America touring bike ,I would think !

While not really "Apples and Tomatoes" the two bikes are substantially different. But some are surprised where a decent off road rider can manage to
take a Vstrom to.

http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/photos/70321183-M.jpg
http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/photos/73595321-M.jpg

I've always thought of stripping a crashed DL650 down and trying to make
a semi-dirt worthy bike out of it. In the meantime I've got both bikes and you just have to choose your weapon.
http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/photos/54089718-M.jpg

The DR will never match the Vstrom on the highway no matter what you do.
The easy grace, smooth power and exceptional comfort put the STrom ahead
of even the most modded out DR650.

http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/photos/47665871-M.jpg
http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...078822-M-1.jpg

But get into deep sand, mud or rocks the things can quickly get ugly on
the big bike. The 150 lbs. weight difference quickly becomes apparent
in these circumstances.

Patrick:scooter:

DR650...slowly moving ahead
 

The DR is slowly getting a few things. I'm doing research but so far its like
pulling teeth. There really is just not that much support for the poor red headed step child DR. A few things I've done.

The rear section has been modified to give a smaller, cleaner look. It needed a
light on the plate.

Tiny LED Light for license plate
http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...07252931-M.jpg
http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...07253009-M.jpg

I've burnt up bags before on another DR650...and melted that very expensive
plastic side cover as well. I carry Wine and other heavy items so the bags
really press down hard. The bags shown are EMPTY, when loaded they
hang straight.

Home made stand offs for bags
http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...07252937-M.jpg
http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...07252941-M.jpg

The Pro Tapers I got free. They look nice and reduce vibes maybe a bit.
Very strong, won't bend. Hand guards next...maybe.

Pro Taper Bars
http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...07252943-M.jpg
http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...07252949-M.jpg

With weight in and heavy boucning they don't seem to touch the pipe.
on the left I have a securing standoff to keep the bag swinging into the tire.

Also, I added small turn signals. These ones are cheapo and one burned it bulb (23 watts!!!) on the first day. But the main prob with them is they do not have flexible stems. So they are temporary.

Tour master bags (empty, not secured)
http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...07253016-M.jpg
http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...253022-M-1.jpg

Cheers,

Patrick

Mods for the DR
 

I just got back from a 6000 mile 5 week tour of Mexico on a DR. Perfect bike for it. MEFO tires went the entire way with some serious dirt and rock sections; I recommend them. They don't hook up quite as well as TKC80's but they are a smoother ride on pavement and last much, much longer. I bought the Happy Trails rack and put Pellican side cases on the bike. I crashed on the dirt 4 times and one was at 35-40 mph I'm guessing. My friend hit a horse at 50. The Pellican cases did not have any side effects from these crashes except for minor causmetic damage. I was extremely impressed. On the other hand, the next bags I get are going to be top loading. Period. What else can I tell you? Hmmm. My friend had a DR650 with the FMFQ2 and used a 160 jet with a K and H. It worked well. We drove several times up to 11,000 from sea level and used the fuel screw and idle adjustments to deal with the altitude. No problems. I used a collapsable camp chair in addition to my corbin which made long days easy. That and a throttle lock. The only thing I would do different is to sort out some sort of windshield. I don't mind wind but I think I damaged my hearing. I used the MRA streetshield which wasn't enough to get the wind up over my helmet (which I am used to on my dl1000). Oh well, it is a dirtbike. Anyway, congrats on your purchase and I love my dr. It is the perfect dualsport bike for me.

Thanks for the tip on the Mefo's. I was curious how long they would last.
How are they on wet pavement in the twisties ridden hard?

What was your route through Mexico? Baja too? Did you find much dirt riding
in Mainland Mexico?

:thumbup1: I agree about top loading cases. This is one reason I like my
GIVI E41's on my Vstrom. They have a top compartment you can open without opening the main clam shell door up. Nice.

El Davo just posted some pics of some nice Nelson-Rig soft bags. Nicer than my Tourmasters. The overall quality is much better on the N-R's and the ones
shown are quite roomy!

On a long mostly road trip a good shield is imperative IMO. Man, I hope you
were wearing EAR PLUGS!! :( If not, then yes, you HAVE damaged your hearing) I'm a sound mixer so I know about such things. :smartass:

YOU MUST WEAR EARPLUGS ON YOUR BIKE OR YOU WILL GO DEAF AT A VERY EARLY AGE.:eek3: Simple as that. You may recover some of it but six weeks
is a lot of exposure.

How did the DR's do mechanically? Any issues at all?
Thanks for the report.

I'm slowly piddling away on my DR. I've solved theTok Tok sound from the chain guide (white plastic thing below chain) I've carved out a gruve and glued in heavy rubber to silence it. So far, its dead silent. Ah, what a relief. I hear everything.

I'm deciding on a shield too.

Let us know if you have a ride report with pics anywhere.

Cheers,

Patrick

more DR
 

The MEFO's did very well for me in all conditions. Never so much as a hiccup. Other tires with a larger distance between blocks seem to work better for loose rocks and chunks of dirt but overall the stress my friend went through looking for a new tire after 3500 miles was way too much for the amount of dirt that we did. I am going to buy a new pair when these wear out and use my knobbies for local dirt. Highly recommended for the DR.


What was your route through Mexico? Baja too? Did you find much dirt riding
in Mainland Mexico?

We live in Seattle and we drove to Mexico from here using dirt from Bend, OR to Nevada and some sections in Nevada. Then Hermisillo (sorry if I am spelling these towns wrong), Creel, Batopilas, Los Mochis, El Fuerte, MZT, Durango, Zacatecas, Guanajuato, Morelia, the coast, DF, Houston. There is a lot of dirt to be done. My favorite part was Batopilas to Los Mochis but there were many, many times when I was glad for the ground clearance of the DR when finding camping spots, riding off through hardly used tracks for a good lunch spot or getting our bikes into hotel lobbies. With a little inginuity and patience, there are many dirt roads and lots of good camping in mainland Mexico. Beaches, desert, mountains- I was suprised at the diversity.

I think I am going for Happy Trails aluminums with the Wolfman 4 liter gas tank saddle bags to get some of the weight up front. We rode with some bikers from AZ and that system looks good on their KLR's. On hard dirt, my biggest problem was too much weight in the back (well, besides my inexperience). My front end would pop up when the road got really steep.


On a long mostly road trip a good shield is imperative IMO. Man, I hope you
were wearing EAR PLUGS!! :( If not, then yes, you HAVE damaged your hearing) I'm a sound mixer so I know about such things. :smartass:

I did wear earplugs all the time but it wasn't enough because my ears are still ringing 2 weeks later. It really wasn't that bad until the return trip when I was riding all day for 10 days. I tried many types of disposables as well- the best they had at Home Depo. I think the final straw for my ears was riding from Matamoros to Houston. There was a cold front with a wind gusting 50 mph and I was going 50 to 60. It was comming from the side of the bike so what little the screen did was circumvented. I never had a problem on my vfr or DL1000 so I was suprised. I am willing to spend whatever it takes and I don't care if my bike looks like the popemobile to do it. Any suggestions? What about professional musical earplugs?

How did the DR's do mechanically?

Flawless. Perfect. I love my DR. Just love it. I lost a chain clip and the chain broke. We were doing some rough stuff for days and I think I let the chain get too loose and it popped off. Bent the chain laterally when it went through the sprockets. I had spare master links but the chain was bent on 10 links or so. It limped until I could get a new one. I had a hard crash and bent the handlebars on the throttle. It was a little sticky.

I am new to the dirt aspect of things. I have been riding street for 10 years but just forest roads until now. You know what struck me? I am amazed at the constant abuse that I inflicted on my DR and how well it did. I just never thought that a bike could take that much. Wow. Especially crashes. And deep river crossings. I am glad I didn't have a bigger bike on those days. People tell me they can ride their BMW1200 adv on stuff like that and I just can't see how with all those big rocks.

Thanks for the report.

It is my pleasure- thank you for being interested in my trip.

[QUOTE=mrdnd]...............am willing to spend whatever it takes and I don't care if my bike looks like the popemobile to do it............... QUOTE]

I mounted a tall Parabellum shield and it actually gives more protection than the AeroFlow on my GS. It's very close to you and not for off road riding. Cuts the wind noise by 80-90%??
Using thumb screws/wing nuts/plastic knobs, etc to mount, it's quick and easy to remove. Stow it under a net on the rear, or something similar when not running fast or planning some dirt.
I do too many highway miles to not have a good shield.
I'm 5'10" and look over top of the shield.

A few new Farkles
 

I've done a few new things to the DR in the last week, thought I'd post a pic or two.

Patrick:scooter:


One thing I did was install heated grips. I have a pic of the grips switch zipped tied to Idiot light module. I bought a rubber sleeve for the toggle and made a a rubber "dam" out of inner tube to go over the switch itself.
http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...12618385-M.jpg
http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...12618380-M.jpg

I also thought a PVC pipe for tools would be good so I fabbed one up today.
Holds quite a bit of the heaviest items and then some. I used 3" HD PVC
about 10" across with a cap on one end and a rubber cap with a hose
clamp on the other. I could have used a threaded end but it was bulky.
http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...12618390-M.jpg
http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...12618405-M.jpg
Most of this stuff fits in. I don't carry the VOM in there or the glue and
patch stuff. The nut/bolt kit will have to someplace else. But the big tire iron
fits and all the hard tools.
http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...12618374-M.jpg

Thanks Lone Rider
 

I will try your windshield for this comming spring and summer. Thank you for directing me to a good product. -Mark

What's Left
 

The ATV hi-bend Protaper bars, gel grips, new sprockets, new x-ring chain, TKC 80 frt tire and hand guards will arrive this coming week. Aside from maybe a lower chain roller, spare clutch cable and maybe pegs...she's finished, personalized, and ready for a good trip.

I'll fill the bars with #9 lead shot and try to keep the stock hand shields with the new alum hand guards. The stock shields aren't the slickest looking, but do offer good weather protection.

The bike is now 3 months old with 9,800 miles. Due for another oil change in a few hundred, factory chain looks great, no discernable wear on the rear sprocket, but I can see some slight elongation and the beginings of hooking on the front. It's probably good for another 10k miles, but I'm unsure. The upcoming trip to Mexico and Central America might be a 10k deal. I hate not getting full use out of equipment/parts life and at the same time I don't want to haul an extra chain and sprockets along with me. Packing light is my method and mantra, but the video/photo gear is necessary and will be my handicap.

The bike gets new sprockets and a chain before I leave. :)

She will probably return with new shoes scavenged from some southern country, yet to be known.

I love mi moto... :)

It's the only wind screen manufacturer I've ever heard of that offers a 30 day money-back trial.

Sounds good! Ready to roll!:thumbup1:
At close to 10K on your stock chain I'd say changing it out is prudent. Based
on LeCap's comments regards stock DR chains and my own experience with sinlges, I'd guess the stocker is good for between 10k to 15K miles.

Here's the thing about chains.....and I wish you'd leave your original on so you could see this happen.....is that once they start to go....they go very quickly! :eek3:

Planning on posting any video clips on line anywhere? Have a great trip!

Patrick

:scooter:

On Blinkers (indicators)

There are some cheap small honda XR replacements around .. they come with 10 Watt globes .. you can get 23watt globe that fit (and don't melt the housing!) .. that means they are bright enough.

I blot the front ones under the handel bars .. using the mirror mounting .. behind the bark busters. This means they are less likely to get hit!

On the panniers .. I use the pelican 1550 .. but they are avalible in different sizes. Place the rear blinkers inside the panner line and they are safe.

The only advice I've had for DR650s is the starter motor can get crap in it .. may be a yearly clean out?

Thanks Frank,
Latest blinker I heard of that looks good are the GasGas trials bike turn signals. Same as the ones on the Buell. Small, bright, and supposedly very
inexpensive. Have to check them out.

Patrick

These are the ones I tried first. I switched them to the front. No pics of that.
http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...253022-M-1.jpg

Then I put these on the back. $16 pair at Cycle Gear. Diamond lights.
Bright enough, I made them flexible using rubber fuel hose.
http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...12260989-M.jpg

Smart thinking. :thumb

I haven't messed with the stock ones. If they get knocked off, I'll probably gaffer tape or zip-tie them to 'something'. I'm kinda big on hand signals even with blinkers.

Frank,
The Peli's are great boxes, but I'm staying away from hard luggage. Yeah, possibly losing some security in certain situations, I know.

BTW Patrick, the rear Mefo feels very planted on-road. The front Trail Wing is unreal - betting it would go over 13k of mostly high speed running- but I'll change it out later this week. I'm thinking it's the 21' frt keeping me from feeling so cozy just quickly plopping the bike over into a turn, like I felt on the GS. A learning thing...

Frank,
When are you exporting yourself and bike from that big island?

Patrick,

I like the idea about the Remus. Are you sure that they make one for the DR though? I looked on their website and couldnt find one. Maybe I will drive over there and see what fits, they are only 1 hour from where I live.

If you decide to sell the IMS or the Corbin let me know as I am probably going to pick up a stock 00 this weekend.

Lukas

I would call Knut (pronounced Kanoot) Wagner at Remus in SF.
He'll know for sure. The Remus can will fit, its the mid pipe they
probably do not have. Buts its possible Knut could order this
from Austria or have it made locally...ain't that big a deal.

The Ti cans are great but pricey...they also make Aluminum and
Carbon fiber cans, both cheaper (but NOT better) than Titanium.

Not selling anything anytime soon.

Patrick:scooter:

Spare clutch cable came in today and gets zip-tied on tomorrow. Plastic and gaffer tape over the ends.
The back ordered JT sprockets were finally shipped out on Monday.
The MSR brush guard adapters for the Protaper bars...and the plastic shields are somewhere in a Brown Truck..late.
Still haven't mounted the front TKC sitting on a table in the living area, but do fondle the knobs at least one time each day.
I really don't know what else to do for the bike right now except for riding it several times each day. :)

Maybe some spare levers to zip-tie underneath the rear rack....

Sounds like your ready to pull the trigger! :thumbup1:

I think levers are good, cheap insurance. OEM ones are only $8 or $9 from Ron Ayers. I've carried them on my dirt bikes in my tool kits for years.

Your MSR hand guards (bark busters) should protect the levers but sometimes they get snapped off. I leave the bolts on the perch caps just a bit loose so they rotate instead of breaking in a fall. Be sure to Loc-Tite the bolts. They should stay in place but if pushed on hard, should move.

I'd strap that TKC on the back and wear out your current front on the highway going south. It'll be gone soon enough.

I think Team Brown are having a melt down this year. Too much cost cutting(read profit taking) I expect. Everyone I've talked are complaining about UPS and FedEX. USPS seems to be doing great however.

Have a great trip!

Patrick:scooter:

I like the way you think. :)

Have you put in new springs yet? The Eibach or Progressive F&R replacements make an amazing difference in the DR650's suspension. Highly recommended!

My wife and I each have DR650s. My '05 is set up with the DynoJet kit, drilled slide, opened airbox top, Twinair air filter, stock exhaust, Spitfire windscreen, IMS tank, Corbin, Eibach springs, ProTaper SE bars, Meier Woods Pro hand guards, Ram mount for a hard-wired Garmin 276C, Baja Design license plate holder w/LED license plate light, DRZ250 replacement tail light unit, Dunlop 606 tires, heavy duty tubes, a fused BMW-style Powerlet outlet mounted on the left side cover for a charger/tender or heated vest or air pump, 14/45 gearing, Moto-Sport pannier rack, Pelican 1520 case panniers, Suzuki rear rack. It is a wonderful all-terrain light-weight touring bike and one of the most reliable and inexpensive do-it-all bikes out there!

Sounds like a really nice set up!

Any idea what spring rates are needed for what weight rider?
I know the front needs help, very soft. The rear is OK but the preload is jacked way up so I know I'm too heavy for the stock spring.

With all my gear on I'm pushing 200 lbs.
Can you help with spring rates?

I've planned to do this for a while but some other project have got in the way of the DR. I will get back to it soon.

Hey, can you post some pics of your bike and all the good mods you've done?
I haven't seen a DR with Pelikans yet! :thumbup1:

What sort of mileage do you get with the jet kit? I'm still messing around with mine trying to retain power but get better mileage.

Cheers,

Patrick:Beach:

Patrick - For the exact spring rates for you, call Jesse at Kientech.com. I just gave him my weight, bike configuation and installed aftermarket equipment and how I use the bike and he prescribed the Eibach spring rates for me. Installation is simple, maybe a 3-4 hour job, and one of the best modifications you can do to a DR650. Highly recommended.

I am getting around 45mpg with the jet kit up here in the mountains, but I haven't done a precise calculation in a while. I start looking for gas at about 200 miles but have never hit reserve with the IMS tank.

There are pictures of my DR650 with the Pelican 1520 cases in my Smugmug account HERE. These pictures were from last summer before I had the Spitfire windscreen and the DRZ250 tail lights.

So you have some experience with both brands of springs? I was wondering, the Progressive ones (at least, the ones sold at Dual Star) don't seem to be tailored to any particular rider weight. What's your opinion on the difference between them?

Sorry if I was misleading. I only have second hand information about the Progressive springs. I have the Eibach springs on my DR650 and do heartily recommend them from first hand experience.

They work okay on the street and dirt? I'm a 80% street kind of guy, might be getting some 'tard wheels on her too.

You will be very happy with them both on and off road. After getting rid of the extreme front end dive under braking, you'll wonder why you waited so long.

I'm now set on what springs I need. Been in contact with Jesse.
I looked at the Smugmug shots...nice set up! :thumbup1:

Are those the Happy Trails racks holding the Pelicans? What additional mods were done in order to mount them? I see the bottom mount rails....good idea! When you get somewhere how hard are the bags to remove? Since I own 5 Pelikan cases already (for work) I may retire a couple and go this route at some point.
Does the Caribou guy sell any mounting hardware?

Cheers,

Patrick:scooter:

Patrick - I am using the Moto-Sports pannier racks. I chose those because I didn't care for the rear stabilizing bar on the Happy Trails rack. The Moto-Sports rack doesn't have that and they seem quite strong as they are. I did not have to do any additional mods to mount the racks, they are basically bolt on, I just messed with some washers as spacers. I used a universal pannier mounting kit that I also got from Moto-Sports to mount the Pelicans to the rack. It consists of some large washers, flat hex head screws (for mounting to the top of the rack) as well as the brackets that work as the lower mount. To remove the panniers with the way I did it, you need to remove two hex screws from the inside of each pannier. Only takes a minute. I will probably still try to come up with a better quick release system (Jesse-like cam lock???), but this works well for my purposes now.

I haven't been in contact with the Caribou guy except about possible liners for 1520 Pelicans (he only has them for 1550), but he does sell his modified Pelican cases separately. I'm not sure if he has his rack system ready for the DR650 or not. I think his stuff is first rate, but I am more than happy with the setup I have for under $450 total ($200 for the racks, a little under $200 for two new generic 1520 Pelicans from the internet and about $50 for the universal pannier mounting kit).

We’ve spent a bit of time preparing the bikes for the trip to Russia, so I thought I’d put some details and pictures up.

The bikes are 2006 DR650SE’s from Dannevirke Suzuki. The blue one has been lowered by altering the rear suspension and turning over a spacer in the front forks.

The first thing we did was replace the screws in the bikes with stainless steel cap screws, especially on the carburettor, switch blocks, coil, and body work. The Suzuki fasteners have a reputation for being very soft, and after a few years they become seized and impossible to remove. I got the fasteners from EDL and they cost about $110 for the whole job.

The next thing we did was start constructing the luggage racks front and rear. The rear luggage rack is a simple truss structure, I wanted the frame to be as far forward as possible, but still wanted to be able to remove the seat with the frame attached. This has worked pretty well and I’m happy with the final design. I’ve designed the rack to enhance the strength of the rear sub-frame, but we’ll see how it goes. According to Chris Scott’s Adventure Motorcycling Handbook, sub-frame failure is the second most common problem after punctures. Plenty of good welders in Russia though, so if it breaks it won’t be a show stopper.

To try and get a slightly more even weight distribution over the front and rear, we’ve also decided to add front pannier bags. These are Ortlieb Front Roller cycling bags. I’ve bent the rack up out of 10 mm plain bar and got it zinc coated at Perry’s Metal Coaters in Seaview. I must say I would not recommend their services to anyone. They took about a month to do the job, lost some of the parts, which I had to remake in my own time and cost, and worst of all the job looks like a kindergarten kid did it. The zinc is uneven and lumpy and they’ve missed some bits altogether. The Ortlieb bags themselves are fantastic and we’re really happy with them and the way they sit, taking wind and rain in their stride.

Next we’ve added some tough Factory 909 handle bars and big hand guards thanks to the guys at SportsPro.

We then added a home made headlight guard bent up from a piece of Lexan and added some Givi A601 windscreens, donated by the Givi importer Eurobike. The windscreens have made a huge difference to the wind fatigue and have made riding the DR’s quite a bit more comfy. I’d highly recommend the windscreens if you’re planning to do lots of road miles.

Next we added Scottoilers, also donated by the Scottoiler importer Eurobike. These have kept our chains very clean. I think I’m a Scottoiler convert for life now. Clean, easy, no worries. We mounted them on the main frame near the carb, cutting into the vaccum line for the fuel tap.

We then added some tough B&B bash plates from B&B engineering in Aussie. Really happy with them.

We’ve also added inline fuel filters, and put new oil filters in courtesy of Champion.

We're using a peice of 80 mm drain pipe to put tent poles and tools in. We've attached in the place of the existing tool kit. You can clearly see it in P7.

Then we added our Aluminium pannier boxes, courtesy of Ullrich Aluminium and Velocity Engineering. They’re 1.6 mm thick which is quite thick, but they’re tough enough to handle the weight of the bikes when changing tyres etc. They also make a nice seat. Right pannier is 170 x 300 x 400 mm (WxDxL) and left pannier is 205 x 300 x 400 mm. Overall the panniers are the same width as the handle bars.

Lastly we put on some meaty Continental TKC80’s which are awesome tyres. Highly recommended. Tried them out on and they hook up fine on grass and gravel even when the bikes are well loaded up. Seem to have good grip on the road too. We’re carrying two rear spares and one front spare each, which we’ll send ahead.

For extra fuel we’re using MSR Dromedary bladders and for water we’re using some MSR Dromedary Lite bladders.

We've strengthened the main wiring loom by putting some spiral wrap around where it chafes on the head stock.


Total weight with all our equipment, spares, main fuel etc (but no food, extra fuel and water) is 205 kg average (Jane is 10 kg lighter, Bartman is carrying all the tools and spares). Food water and extra fuel will come to about 20kg, so we’re looking at 225 kg loaded to maximum capacity, which is a bit heavier than I’d hoped but still a full 120 kg lighter than the ‘Long Way Round’ guys. Most of the time we won’t have to carry the extra fuel and water, it’s only through a short 3000 km section, where fuel and water are sparse.

I’ve cut down the side stand on the bikes too, because when loaded up the suspension squats down quite a bit, meaning that they’re very unstable on the side stands.

Spare parts include:
A spare pair of brake pads each
A spare set of wheel bearings each
Spare throttle and clutch cables
Spare brake and clutch levers
Spare inner tubes front and rear
Tyre repair kit, consisting of tyre levers, glue, patches and a small hammer.
Spare valve cores and valve caps
A selection of fuses, electrical connectors and o-rings
Locktite instant gasket
Kneed-it
Rubber and molly grease
Anti-seize compound
Locktite 262
A spare regulator/rectifier courtesy of Eurobike
2 spare rear Continental TKC80 tyres and one spare Continental TKC80 front tyre each
Cable ties
Lock wire
Electrical wire.

I'd be interested to hear your comments.

It sounds like you've gone over the bikes well. Wiring scuffing, fasteners, etc. I'm not a fan of hard panniers for off road use, but that's just me. I don't know how many miles you plan to cover, but if you're shipping tires forward, maybe chains and sprockets wouldn't hurt either. I assume you have the tools needed.

It looks like you're packing a lot of stuff.....

This is a good thread.

Hi, thanks for the reply. Not a fan of hard panniers either... but for security in countries I've never traveled in I think they're a bit better. Hindsight may tell me otherwise though, but we'll see. The panniers are also very useful for propping up the bikes and as a seat and food preparation surface.

Planning on doing about 15,000 ks in Russia, Mongolia and Europe starting at Vladivostok. Thought about chain and sprockets. We got Scottoilers free so we're hoping that will do the trick. Will carry a front sprocket though. May still pack chain and sprockets and send them ahead with the tyres.

I don't think we're packing too much for 5 months on the road, just a tent, cooker, sleeping bag, basic eating utensils, 1 set of clothes each, socks, underwear, wet weather gear, shoes (which take up heaps of room!) and the spares mentioned.

We've got basic tools to do most routine jobs, Allen keys, spanners, few sockets and a ratchet, small continuity tester, small file, pliers, knife and small hacksaw. A major engine job is going to require a workshop anyway, so there ain't much point dragging a torque wrench and impact driver along.

Thanks again for the comments....

Mark

Funny, I just wrote a detailed message...then went back to edit a small error and the whole message was deleted. Interesting. :censored:

I'm not re-typing the whole thing over....so quickly, here are a couple ideas:

Springs, front and rear. To not do this is a safety issue, IMO.

Seat. I can't see getting too far on the stock seat.

Tank. Bigger please. At least 5 US gal.

Do a longish test ride in the desert fully loaded in deep sand, mud et al.
See how you do with the bikes. Now imagine doing 300 kms. of the bad stuff.

Can you break the bead on the rear tire? Using what?


Best.

Hey there.
Don't know much about the springs. They seemed fine on the test ride. If you're really concerned send me some better ones and I'll fit them.

Got a Dromedary bladder for fuel. This is 10 L giving a total of 23 L I'm confident this should be enough, according to others who have ridden in the areas we are planning to go. We're not afraid to take local advice though, and if locals tell us that there's no gas available we need to we'll buy some jerry cans on the road.

We've got a bit of sheepskin for the seat. Done several 500 km days on the DR without complaint. What's more to say that we're not going to get far with the stock seat is plain rude. We're using the stock seat and we're going to do 15,000 ks.

I'm sure its going to be tough in the mud and sand. Thats part of the challenge. A guy has ridden a gold wing across Russia, and another guy who I know personally has taken a yamaha FJR, there's also the 2 actors who used big BMWs. I'n not saying it won't be tough, I'm sure we'll make it.

I break the bead using the other bike's side stand. Done this many times.

Thanks for your useful tips. If you've got any more I'd love to hear them.
Mark.

What size sprockets are you running?

Maybe I missed it, but something like JB Weld for fixing a holed case might be good.

You won't be needing them. I'm sure you can simply ride 'round it. If they were fine on your test ride then I guess you're good to go! Sounds like you've got all this suspension stuff under control.

I'm not familiar with a Dromedary bladder. 23L is 6 US gallons. Should be great. Jerry jugs come in handy. How is this 2.5 gal bladder carried? On the bike? On your back? Does it slosh around at all? Leak?

Ah, Sheepskin, of course! Sounds like you've got it all sussed out. What a great solution! Now why didn't I think of that before spending good money on a Corbin! :cool4:

Confidence is good.

No Doubt.

Hey there, got 2 sprockets. Standard gearing for the road and one with fewer teeth for when the going gets tough.

We've got some Kneed-it for holed cases etc. It's a hard epoxy putty, sounds very similar to JB Weld. Can be used on gas tanks and radiators too.

Cheers.

Fuel Filters
 

I like the clear-cased paper filters that are used on lawn equip.
IMO, much better than the little rock element sifting filters.

You guys have thought this out well.

Hi there, the bladder straps onto the top of the left hand pannier case.. You can see it quite clearly in the middle photo.

The main advantages of a bladder is that they don't slosh at all, becasue there's no air in them, provided you tie it down properly, and they pack down small when you're not using them, which is about 2/3s of the time.

Several members of HU seem to be using them... Had a mate who went around Aussie using one and found it to be fantastic. There's a risk of rupture in a big crash, but a plastic jerry can will rupture too if it hits the deck at speed.

Cheers,

Mark.

dr650
 

Hey Batman like the look of your dr. I rode my dominator over here from the UK and just picked up a dr to do the next trip to south america or africa or er can't really decide yet. I have only done a couple of thousand km on my dr so far but can't belive how good it is even loaded down with luggage on rough tracks great choice I think. I down in Timaru if your going for a spin round the country before you leave would be good to catch up cheers richrtw@hotmail.com

Dual-Star email Address
 

It's my understanding that they advertise a centerstand, and have done so for many years, but are not able to actually deliver one. This isn't a recent problem.

DR650 Center stand
 

Beyond the SW Motec one, I don't know any other companies that make a center stand for the DR650. I'm sure the SW one is fine. I don't think the Vstrom
one would work however, quite a different bike. (I'm on my 2nd Vstrom).

Cheers:scooter:

From Soft To Hard...for the long road.
 

DR650 update:

Well I've learned alot in the last 3 or 4 months about the DR. Reading back is funny, as I see all the things that haven't worked out and mistakes I've made.

I've managed to put on about 4000 miles on this bike so far, done a few nice dual sport rides loaded up and am continuing with mods as budget allows.

As the suspension has broken in the soft front end has become a problem. And the static sag on the bike also is a No-Go. So Jesse at Kientech is on my list to get the Eibach springs front and rear. Must have been those nasty rocks sections and whoops out in Death Valley that did it.

I've also decided that for Mexico/Central America that soft bags won't hold everything. So since I have a GIVI rack for a DR650 and GIVI bags sitting in my garage, I'm going to use them. The GIVI bags are from my old Vstrom....and the rack from a friends blown bike. I got all of it free so may as well use it.

I'm also struggling over tires for this upcoming trip....I'll post about this later.

Patrick
Still in Prep mode!




Soft bags too small
http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...253022-M-1.jpg
GIVI racks alone
http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...80673963-M.jpg
Just bags
http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...80674033-M.jpg
With top bag
http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...80677018-M.jpg

If you don't need a real knobby style tire, maybe give the IRC GP110 a try. It's an unusual design and works very well on the road. I've gotten 5k each from 2 rears and many miles (I forget) from a front.
Chaparral has them at decent prices. Even the 5.10 will fit, if you want to go fat.

Mollydog,

Won't those boxes scrape in corners? They look pretty low.

Low is good. I leaned the bike way over with the bags on in the garage...seemed like plenty of clearance. I'll let you know if they touch when I do a test ride. This is the first time I've had them on the bike....haven't even put a mile on the bike with bags mounted.

They look low I think because that side stand leans the bike way over.

What I really liked about the way GIVI did this set up is that they put the bags
pretty far foward and low to maximise mass centralzation. Makes a huge difference in handling and stability when you start adding weight and going fast through corners.

Lone, I'll take a look at the GP-1. I used one in Baja on my XL600 in 1992. It lasted well but sucked as a knobbie ....but most 50/50's do I guess. See my other plea for help I just put up.

Patrick

Not the GP1, but the GP"110". They are very different tires.

The GP1 is similar to a K270.

Bags
 

Patrick,

Great looking bike, but it looks to me like the bags look a little out of place on the DR. Dirt orientated DS bike matched with a street orientated luggage system. Not sure if I could resist having a nicely set up bike with offroad capabilities like the DR without getting drawn into some interesting terrain and then when the inevitable fall happens, wishing that I had more dirt orientated bags.

You might want to consider a set of Pelican 1550s, they are only $100 each online, (cheaper even if you wait for them on ebay) one can easily make a home made attachment system, and if one hits the dirt, IMHO they survive crashes better than aluminum boxes at moderate speeds and look even better with a few scratches on them!

No doubt the GIVI bags look goofy on the DR...:rolleyes2: .but it's what I had laying around. I know the Pelicans and would certainly consider that set up, thanks for the heads up!

I know they are tough bags...I have used them in my work since 1985. Even got a couple free ones when baggage handlers did minor damage to two of mine in Africa.

I'll look into them and adapting them to the GIVI racks.
I don't like the way they open that much...all your stuff falls on the ground.
I guess you have to get the inner bags?

If the GIVI's get busted up i'll just jetison them and use a large duffel bag found locally or have leather saddle bags made. The GIVI's you see on there came off my old Vstrom, which hit the ground twice....just some scrapes on the GIVI's. No other damage. Just lucky I guess.

Bark Busters coming...they are cheapo ones (TusK) so not sure how they'll work. Thanks to Lone Rider and others I've narrowed down my tires.
More to do:
Ordering new chain and sprockets next. (DID VM X ring)
Installing HD Metzeler tubes w/SLIME.
Decided against windshield after doing several long rides.
Still to do Springs front & rear.
Paper work, reading and research.

What am I missing?

Cheers!

Patrick:mchappy:

[QUOTE=mollydog;146281].........What am I missing?

................QUOTE]


Inline fuel filter....and a bottle opener....:dunno

When are you going, generally where and for how long?

Re: Bags
 

Yep, I tend to use what I already have as well so I can certainly see the merit in not spending any more money :)

The Pelicans become much more user friendly when attaching a small wire from the opening lid to the main compartment that prevents it from opening more than about 80-90 degrees. And as you suggest, inner bags are great because you can grab them and carry into your accomodation without bringing the dirt along. The specifically made ones are about $100 online or a approx. smae sized old duffel or back pack works pretty darn well. And if I can find the right seamstress in some small town...

Pelicans....

They're secure, tough...and heavy. They can be mounted by the lid, rather than the bottom, which can help in packing and unpacking.

What are you packing that can't be carried in soft side bags and a soft rear bag?

I like the suggestion about mounting at the lids.

Yes heavy, but no more so than a set of aluminum panniers.

Soft bags, much lighter. Good for many applications, especially shorter trips and yes carry most things. But on longer trips tradeoff is:

1. Slightly improved security for hard bags which depending on your ride you may or may not need. For example, popped into the monastery in Kharkorin in Mongolia and left hard bags locked outside in front of vendor area. Felt fairly secure that someone wouldn't sidle up to the bags unnoticed and go through noticable effort required to break in. Would not have felt secure leaving a simple soft bag where the the usual crowd milling around squeezing the levers could have gone through the bags without too many people noticing. Personal perception I agree, but I certainly would not have felt safe enough to leave a soft bag unattended, even with a lock.

2. Crashability: They simply bounce better. At low to moderate speed crashes they simply bounce and don't require any straightening. The attachment hardware or racks might depending on your system, but the good old soft bags will eventually get a little ripped and torn and require some repairs or extensive bungee cording. It can be done, and when you get to a town you can get them sewn up or a rack made to hold them but after a while they may not work as well they originally did. Of course, that is all moot if you never crash :)

Thanks for the reminder. I've got a couple I'd like to try out. Which ones work the best on the DR? The IMS tank limits space and hose routing...ideas?

Bottle opener? ah, right....not many twist offs down south! :thumbup1:

I'm trying to leave in September. Plan is to see some place in Mexico I haven't seen in years. Real de Catorce and the dirt roads around there (Peyote country), some of the highland towns, a friend in Oaxaca, southern coast.

Explore some of Guate, visit where I used to live in Solola', onto Salvador for some water sports, Caribean side of Honduras, Nicaragua, Costa Rica.
Panama? Not sure. Need help there. I may continue on, depending on time and money...into S. America to hook up with friends in Argentina in January. All this time premitting.

Good question. Nothing special. I could easily go with soft bags, I just want to try something new. I've done three multi-day dual sport rides with the soft bags. Even for just a 4 or 5 day ride....they were FULL! I guess I need to lighten up. I know how to do this...(honest) but don't want to! I'm old, and set in my ways. :cool4: I may change my mind yet. Some serious thinking/evaluation about this now.

Mountain Man,
Thanks for all the great comments too! :chinese: I didn't know the Pelikan lids were strong enough to mount. Interesting.

The whole security issue is always of concern too....nice outline.
i've been there. I've also learned not to have cool doo-dads on my dash or handlebars. Quick and clever fingers will see them disappear in an instant.

Will update this soon....thanks to all!

Patrick :thumbup:

You can find paper filters in clear plastic case at most all auto parts chains. They're commonly used for lawn mowers.
You will need to loop some fuel line. I recommend using regular 1/4" automotive fuel line. It's cheap and doesn't kink near as easily as tubing.
I can send a pic of my setup (screw up) if that would help.
If you decide to use this and loop some line, remind me to explain about air pockets and what to watch out for.

Sounds like a fantastic trip, really. :thumb

Take one spare oil filter. If you start with a fresh one, that one spare can take you to 15k miles following mfger recommendations.

Plugs are spec'd for 12k, but I put close to 20k on my first set, and they still ran fine.

You know that 14t front will wear your chain faster...but that's life.

Be careful with the soft alum threads on the oil filter cover thingy. I just had to tap mine out to 1/4".

Check the front brake line where it routes inside the left fork and see if it's rubbing 'into' the soft fork.

Take a multi-meter.

Fuel filter, self supporting..

http://velvtride.smugmug.com/photos/181527249-L.jpg

No clamps on line?

None needed.

Bob, our '00 DR650 had GP110 tires on it when we first bought it (used) about 4 years ago. I always thought they were a great tire for the DR650 if knobbies like the Dunlop 606 tires weren't required. Because of the riding we have locally between Moab and the San Juan mountains, the D606 tires are what we use, but were we to do a trip like your Mexico trip, I think the GP110s would be about ideal.

Oh, before the last trip we took to Moab on the DR650s, I adjusted the valves on my '05. I got about 1/4 mile before the bike quit. I had forgotten to "bleed" the looped fuel line I use with the IMS tank when I reinstalled the tank. I seem to make that mistake about once a year...

It happens to me if I forget to switch to reserve quick enough. :) I think that problem often gets blames on the petcock, which it's not.

I remember reading about a rider who 'turned' the carb inlet tube. Used a vise and some pliers, I think.

A simple bleed valve could be added to the line - just ain't done it yet.

The only rear knobby I've run on the DR has been the 606, and that was on the Divide Ride. I feel like I'm throwing money away because they don't last many miles, but it sure does inspire more confidence...and speed. :)

Cheapo Tusk Handguards are a SCORE!
 

With some trepidation I bought the Tusk Handguards from Rocky Mountain. I've owned many handguards over 20 years on dirt bikes...Acerbis, Moose,
MSR, and more. Most cost between $80 and $100 with all the fitting kits.

I feared the worst.....but low and behold the $30 TUSK items are not only the best quality of ANY Alu handguards I've seen, but also have the most clever mount system that offers the best adjustability of any I've mounted. Being cheap I did not order the kit for $15 to allow them to fit on Pro Taper Fat bars. Nor did I order plastic shields but choose instead to re-use the stock DR
ones. I used my grinder to "widen" the standard pieces to fit Pro Tapers. No problemo, ten minutes and all fit nicely.

The cam insert that goes into the end of the bar is clever too....for standard 7/8" bar you use the rubber insert, for Alu bars go without it. I did have to grind just a hair off the insert collar. Easy.

I did not have to cut the ball ends off the levers, only angle them down, as they should be anyway. No serious interference from clutch cable or brake line or wires. Check 'em out.

http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...82132289-M.jpg
http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...82132281-M.jpg
http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...82132292-M.jpg

Patrick:mchappy:

Mollydog,
Looking good, in particular they look strong! (and that is a great price).
I've tried a quick internet search and there are lots of outlets for these in the US but not much showing up for Europe or elsewhere.
I guess you are now about ready to travel.
Regards,

Working on Tool Kit. Discovered several sizes not on the DR650....like 17mm. Only the mirror bolt. OR....13mm.
Haven' found any on external nuts and bolts....inside the motor, trans or clutch these sizes may exist...I Don't plan any roadside rebuilds. :eek3:

So I'm leaving my 17mm and 13mm wrenches/sockets behind. Also, I've limited my Allen Key set to DR sizes only. I think three are used.

Old Tool kit
http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/photos/45914715-M.jpg

The new kit (still in progress) shown contains supplies and parts too. I use four places to stow all this stuff, and several things aren't shown. Like tire irons which are in bash plate. Hard parts mostly go in PVC tool tube under bash plate, stock tool kit holds tire repair and nut/bolt kits (extensive). Elec.gack in tail pack with glues, Volt/ohm meter, and much more. Other stuff in hard bags and Camelback Mule bag. Too much crap!:helpsmilie:

Patrick:scooter:

http://patricksphotos.smugmug.com/ph...82227023-M.jpg

Looks like you're ready for surgery. :)

I carry a 3/8" ratchet w/short extention that helps me with the oil drain plug, along with 8 and 10mm sockets. The OEM tool kit ain't that bad, but it 'is' missing some things. Dikes and needle-nose seem like a duplication to me. I have a small Crescent (adjustable wrench) and my pliers come in the Gerber 'fix-the-world' thingy. Actually the Gerb does the needle-nose and dike thing too.
Why do you have several long ratchet extentions?
I was going to suggest not carrying an extra tube of Slime, but I carry a can of Fix-a-flat with me, so I'm not one to talk. :)

I really enjoy these kinda threads.

Not bench racing, but similar in a way....

I screwed up....the drain plug is a 17mm. So back in with the 17mm Socket !:censored:

I need to think about the needle nose/dykes. Maybe a small leatherman could
cover both? I need the dykes to do electrical work and a million other jobs.
I could probably do without the needle nose....I rarely use them.

The long extensions go with the Snap-On quarter inch drive ratchet. Sometimes you just need to reach something far inside. Small. I have an 8mm
taped on one, 10mm on the other. Very commonly used.

Actually, the SLIME is not making the trip...its' in the tubes....and you can buy it down south. The Teflon Spray is out too. Too big. I will take my 90wt
gear oil and call if good. Chain cleaning with Diesel.

Here is what is there...or will be there at some point (mostly)

Sockets: 8,10,12,14, and now...17.
Ratcheting Box ends wrenches: 8,10,12,14
8" Crescent wrench (to fill in the gaps (mirror nuts!)
22mm, 24mm w/breaker bar (rear axle nut)
Multi screw driver
Allens, various
mini hack saw (very effective with vise grips)
feeler gauges (DR only)
Jewelers screw drivers
Plug socket (customized)
Vise Grips (mini)
Valve stem tool
Telescoping magnet
Lighter

Glues and stuff

QuiK Aluminum
Loc Tite (blue-non permanant)
Two part Epoxy (15 minute dry)
Gorilla Glue (water activated)
Super Glue
Extra vulcanizing tire patch glue

Elec. kit

Flash light
fuses
VOM
solderless connectors/various
Elec. tape

Spares / supplies / parts

1 oil filter
1 spare turn signal
1 Master link & 4 spare links (525)
6 Carb jets
2 spare spark plugs
1 bulb, tail light (headlight is dual circuit)
1 countershaft sprocket (stock is on now.. 14-T?)
1 front tube (21" inch available on road)
2 regular rear spare tubes (bike now has 18" rear Bridgestone super HD)
4 pairs HD surgical gloves

This is a NEW bike, so no spare clutch cable or throttle cable.

Still shifting through...adding and subtracting stuff. Lots of details. Hope the pics and lists help someone else doing prep. Feel free to be critical or offer good alternatives or point out obvious errors or things I've missed!

Patrick:mchappy:

Stock CS sprocket is 15t.

Here are my 1550 Pelican cases mounted with the lid against the bike. This way they hold more in them when you open. Tough, waterproof, and can take a drop. My only complaint is that they scrape sometimes when I'm on the twistiies.

http://personalpages.chorus.net/jroe...0and%20Ray.jpg

Torches
 

10R10R,
Looks like the kids are all set to go on the long ride!

Mollydog,
I take along a head torch (the type on an elastic band around the forehead) with LED bulbs so that the batteries last for ever, in place of a flashlight (usually end up with a mini maglite packed as well!).

The head torch is great for working in the dark on the bike, loafing around in the tent or even crawling back across the fields from the pub, or ......... :rolleyes2:

The Pelikans look good....and I can tell your girls adore you....you are very lucky!

The head torch idea I have not written down but will do so NOW! These things are the bomb. Question is: Where can I find one at a reasonable price? REI (fancy outdoor store here in USA) has them for like $50 or more!!!

Nothing more indispensable for camping and doing roadside repairs. Thanks for the reminder.

Patrick

I got my headtorch from ebay (two of them) for about £10 each (about $20).
They are the "Energizer" brand (same as the battery brand) which I think is from the US but now made in China (like most other things nowadays!). Never let me down and the batteries go for ever.

As I mentioned, I still carry a mini maglite though.

Thanks for the heads up Dave. I'll start perusing on line to see what I can find.

Patrick:mchappy:

vague hijack
 

How long's the haul, Pat? What's the plan? Good to see you getting back on the road again...

Suerte, Dan

Hijacks welcome!
 

Not quite on the road yet...still prepping and turning things upside down.
Hope to do a little round-a-bout in Mex and Cent. Am. Working out routes now.
Any tips?

Patrick