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Yes, that's another point. But how far from the vehicle? A 30m coil of textile reinforced rubber hose costs ca 20 quid and you can combine several sections on demand. Do you need the compressor physicall right on the spot where you do the to work?
------------------ Roman (UK) www.overlandcruiser.info |
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Hi,
It's a Sanden SD-709. I guess the main unit is the same as in other Sanden models except the clutch. If you want more info about Sandens, try emailing Brad from OnbardAir (http://www.onboardair.com. He's a very helpful bloke. I have a York SC209 Super-Compact compressor with a double V groove clutch. I bought it from Motor Climate in Birmingham, 66-102 Cherrywood Road, Bordesley Green, Birmingham B9 4UD, Tel: +44 (121) 766 5006, Fax: +44 (121) 772 8397, info@motorclimate.co.uk. It could be very near you! The main difference between York and Sanden is that the latter seems to have a lower cfm output and needs externail oiling. York is the most popular option as it easy to mount - almost any position is OK and it's oiled internally. Hope it helps. ------------------ Roman (UK) www.overlandcruiser.info [This message has been edited by Roman (edited 25 January 2005).] |
yes, the Sanden 709 will work. A friend of mine has one installed. However I too like Roman prefer the York.
------------------ A.B. OasisPhoto.com – Images from the Magical Sahara. ShortWheelbase.com – Jeep preparations. Coordinates Converter – Lat/Long <-> UTM Conversion Tool. |
Thanks A.b and Roman. The info you have given us has really helped. Concerning oiling the Sanden, do you have to do this on a regular basis like so many hours use? And it it a matter of taking it to bits or is it a simple job? Will give the supplier for the york pump a ring today, as I cant seem to find anyone in the UK who sells the York compressor. Found a supplier for the Sanden they are £400 each. So I suppose the ones on ebay are a bargain. Give them a ring and they sell them with delivery for £85 brand new.. I also bought a starter motor off ebay for £10 so I am also going to try the iead of running the Sanden off that. I need the compressor to blow a rubber duck (boat) up in remote locations thats why I need a portable one. Anyway thanks for the help and if you could give us some more adive on the starter motor theory it would help.. Cheers
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Roman is right, the inflating power available from an engine driven compressor is way beyond any portable solution, but there are still arguments for and against.
IMHO, if you're going to fiddle around under the bonnet to install airlines and tanks, there's little point in sticking another electric motor in there, once it's not portable it might as well be really powerful. Having said that, unless you live on the edge of the desert you're going to use it such a small proportion of the time. Is it then worth putting another idler pulley and a non-standard belt on to the engine? It's yet another bearing to seize, and how do you blow out the air filter on your own car? (not something I've done but I'm told it's necessary) The duty cycle on a starter motor is horribly short, around 60 seconds before you start overheating. I like the idea of compressor driven by a winch motor, why not use a hydraulic winch motor? All the advantages of hydraulic drives are outlined in the Mile Marker sales patter; and I can't see the disadvantages. Just an idea... |
Luke,
I agree, if you need a compressor once or twice a year, just don't bother with an engine driven one. But once you have it fitted there and it performs almost like a workshop compressor, you will be amazed how often you will find it useful. As for hydraulic winches - normally they are powered by a belt driven hydraulic pump (forget those run by the power steering pump as they are almost useless). ------------------ Roman (UK) www.overlandcruiser.info [This message has been edited by Roman (edited 26 January 2005).] |
What's the advantage of a compressor driven by a hydraulic (winch) motor? Engine drives hydraulic pump, drives hydraulic motor, drives air-compressor... Hey, we could use the air to drive a pneumatic motor, to run a generator, which we could use to power an electric winch! http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/ubb/smile.gif
(Off topic PS: I have to diagree with Roman regarding the Milemarker winches. Mine (an H12) is driven by a power steering pump, and it's a real workhorse. Cheap, light, small, powerful, reliable, safe, 100% duty cycle... You only need a big volume of fluid pumped if you want the winch to operate FAST under load.) Regards, Michael... www.expeditionoverland.com |
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Don't start me ... or at least under a different thread name ;-) ------------------ Roman (UK) www.overlandcruiser.info |
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Oiling is where the York really shines since its a 2 cylinder upright engine with the crank chamber at the bottom just like a normal engine. You fill this chamber with oil and top it up every once in a while. The Sanden has 5 or 7 cylinders (depending on the model) with a rotary type crank but it's laid on its side so keeping it lubricated required more care, but it works. You also fill it with oil and check the level every few hours of operation or so. You can buy or fabricate dipsticks for both compressors. Using either compressors you must use an air filter downstream like those you see in regular compressors to filter oil and any water condensation if you're using a tank. . Oil does come out with the compressed air and it must be filtered. Oil insides the tires degrades them quicker for one. Quote:
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A note on portable compressors: if you're not going to depend on your vehicle how are you going to power the compressor? Are you going to carry a battery or a generator to the site? That's a problem especially if you're going to use a York with a winch motor, that's going to need serious juice. I think Roman's suggestion of a very long hose is ideal, although a buddy in the car and a walky talky would come in handy http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/ubb/smile.gif. If you absolutely need to be independent of the vehicle and need serious air, a CO2 tank would be best. ------------------ A.B. OasisPhoto.com – Images from the Magical Sahara. ShortWheelbase.com – Jeep preparations. Coordinates Converter – Lat/Long <-> UTM Conversion Tool. |
Looked into it a little more. One needs a Lubricater on the inlet side of the compressor( variable oil setting is preferred) and on the outlet of the compressor a Coalescing filter (this removes the oil via centrifugal forces) And secondly keep topping the Sanden compressor up with oil in its chamber. These two methods will make sure the compressor is oiled internally (bearings etc) and externally (pistons etc)
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I am about to buy a 7.5 tonne DAF, and need a compressor for it.
Any ideas - the two main differences are that it is 24V, and that the tyres are obviously a lot bigger! Sam. |
As time marches on, so one's desire for space and comfort enlarge... (I attribute it to age, but it's probably the desire to oblute in privacy :-))
Surely the DAF will have air assisted brakes and therefore a good engine mounted compressor already? If not, Lee (Highlanderhead) should have taken delivery of his Flash Air by now, you could link up with him and try his out (I think his is 12V but it's available in 24V) You'll be pleasantly surprised... Luke |
Hi yes eventually bought the flash air 12v. Took 4 weeks for it to arrive though. My first thoughts when I took it out the box was its not very well made, but then for £200 what do you expect. Secondly what they never told me when looking at the specs on their webside was the fact that the figures where for the 24 volt not the 12v. So the 12v only pushes out 2.12 CFM. During the 4 week wait for the airflash to arrive, I decided to take on my own project and build my own. I bought a york air con pump off ebay from the USA and a 4.6HP 3500 watt winch motor. I have already started the project, building this monster which will push out 12cfm at 100psi. This is made possible by the high power winch motor that spins at 3000rpm no matter what the load, its a serious bit of it. So far I have mounted the compressor and the motor on a piece of aluminium, and I am just about to couple them together using a spider Ruland Coupler. It will then be mounted in a aluminium flight case. i will post some pics when the project is completed. All in all it will take 40 sec to pump a landi tyre up from flat maybe even less. As far as the FLASH AIR goes well its ok but I wont be taking it with me on my trip, only for short local trips in the UK.
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how did it go?
Success with the home-build?
Sam. |
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