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What size of tyre iron
after doing about 10-12 tyre changes with a couple of cheap 12 inch tyre irons over the past four years I finally had a bit of a hissy fit in the garage after a particularly horrific change of some very cold and narrow tyres in the garage for my little 50cc.
It wasn't helped much by the fact I have a few cracked ribs at the moment, but, although the 12 inch irons are a good travel companion ,just in case I get a puncture on the road, I was wondering weather 18 inch or even 24 inch models make for easier changes and if there are some super quality ones that make changes easier and how. Any useful experience out there? cheers Dave |
Hey Dave,
Welcome to the bloody knuckle hissy fit club! :D I can't imagine a 50cc bike causing much trouble, but I will take your word for it. It's all down to good technique. If you're having trouble breaking the bead, then I'd recommend a few things: I use a big "C" clamp to break the bead. Works well even on stiff, steel belted tires. I put a couple little wood blocks to spread pressure on Clamp. Works well even on very stubborn tires. Some guys can break even stubborn beads just using 8" tire irons and somehow wedging them in, working them around the tire. I've tired using bike side stands, car jacks and long 2 X 4 lever set ups, all with MIXED results. On side of the road you will be limited. The C clamp works but is HEAVY and LARGE ... but many other solutions out there. Another popular tire Iron now used are the Motion Pro ones: BeadPro Tire Bead Breaker and Lever Tool Set BeadPro FS (Forged Steel) The long (16"), steel irons best for home/shop use, the Alu are 10" long, perfect for packing on the bike. These require using them in tandem to create a lever and POP the bead. Videos are about on the net showing how they work. I don't own these but a friend did a change with them (short ALU ones) on his KTM 950 rear tire and they worked a treat. Impressive, and faster than using my BIG heavy C clamp. I will buy a set of Alu ones at some point. Best I've seen, and work for getting tire on and off as well. I don't have much trouble once bead is broken, goes for removing tire/tube and getting all back on. I carry rubber lube on board called RU GLIDE. Many brands for sale, Motion Pro sells everything for tire changes. At home I have a set of 16" irons. With these you really have to be careful, you can break the steel bead in your tire or can damage your wheel badly ... I'VE DONE BOTH! doh One trick I like is using BIG HD plastic Zip Ties to clamp tire together. This helps to force it deep into tire Well easier, allows you to lever tire on opposite side. Keeping tire deep into tire "well" is key to getting tire on easily, even with short 8" irons. Less chance you will pinch your tube as well. SMALL BITES ONLY! Also, never get greedy when levering on tire. Take small bites and keep constant pressure to force tire deep into Well as you work round the tire. Multiple Irons best for me. A buddies BOOT can help too to force tire into Well as you work round. One important thing many forget! ALWAYS REMOVE VALVE CORE FROM AIR VALVE STEM. If you don't do this ... you will never, ever break the bead. (but might break tire or wheel!) Let new tires sit in Sun or bring inside. I carry 3 tire Irons. (essential, IMO) But whenever possible I let a tire pro do the work. Thing is, the more you do it, the easier it gets. It's still a terrible, bloody job. I've been on Baja rides where we had 5 flats in a day. Really sucks, eats up riding time badly. We had one guy on one ride who was a ISDE level guy, could change a tire in under 5 minutes if plied with Beer! Me? A good half hour if things go well. bier |
What really pees me off is that after struggling for hours I take the wheel to some backstreet dump in the medina and a wizened old guy whips the tyre off with what looks like a couple of bent tea spoons.
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Thanks for that Mollydog.
I'm not quite sure why i found my 110/80/18inch so hard to get onto my Derbi Senda. It made my 130/80 17 inch going on my Pegaso seem very easy. Perhaps its just me, but I find the narrower tyres more difficult. What caused the hissy fit more than anything was the cold (+3-5 deg C) and lack of a good tyre soap. I was using a bit of water and washing up liquid, and I probably really need to invest in something that does the job a little better. I've never had any problems with breaking beads but I guess it it very tyre and rim dependent. So Tyre soap first, and if that doesn't make it any easier, a 6 foot long tyre iron! cheers Dave |
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Yeah some people are irritatingly good at a whole host of things that I find near on impossible..... And your not even allowed to be grumpy about it because it really is uncalled for!:( |
I have used so many types of tyre levers. In the workshop and on the road..
I've found that £4 Ebay spoon ends are the best. They can handle almost anything. The ends are perfect. The shafts are strong and the handles take the pain out of it. It makes the job far easier and that's important when levering tyres. It's tiring and sometimes very hard. If you can't get your tyres on and off with these then it's your technique, not the levers. Give them a shot. Two working together are perfect. They're well worth the pack space if you're expecting punctures. Extra Long 12" 30cm Deluxe Tyre Lever Removal Tool 300mm Motorcycles Motorbikes | eBay |
I'd say they are a bit of a step up compared to the ones I currently have which I think are actually a bit of the Mir space station that didn't burn up on its way down from space. Once you have got to the critical last bit to flip on they are being spat out because they are so thick!
The good thing with mine is that they have a little foot on on end that help with breaking the bead and in tandem, they can quickly get the job done. Do you use those ones to bead break or have you got another method? |
They work for everything. Braking the bead is best done in a rotating combination of lubrication, teasing with the lever and the heel of your boots ;)
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qw0B2gIwbBg
I always watch this video before a tyre change at home...sort of a refresher course, he uses window cleaner, I sometimes use WD40 which is the best if you let it dry after the change... |
I guess the next thing is what is a good tyre soap to have in your garage, and also what is the best stuff to take on a trip.
And of course, what is the usual household stuff that does the job at 1/10th of the expense? Window cleaner? |
I take a 50ml bottle with 75% Washing up liquid and 25% water. Works very well. Tyre soap is nice but you have to buy it by the bucket usually.
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However my attempts at home have generally been at more of a 99% water 1% washing up liquid, so next time, I'll give your concentration a go! cheers Dave |
WD40 is even better....
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Definitely lots of dish soap and a little bit of water - I usually grab a bottle that is part used and top it up with water - then it doesn't evaporate off so quickly and the tyre stays 'slimy' so easier to slip the levers in, spoon levers do work pretty well, I was sceptical of them, but thy are pretty good and don't pinch tubes so easily, if you really need levers much over a foot long then you are doing it wrong. Warm tyres do make a difference too, hard to warm them up in Winter though, If I can I put them on the roof (with asphalt shingles) or in direct sunlight in Summer somewhere bloody hot they slip on much easier.
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