Lights drain battery
 

Any clues where to look on an XT600E 3tb that is draining / killing the battery when the lights are on ? Getting nearly 14 V until the lights are on and then the reading starts sliding downwards.
The AA recovery man described it as the alternator breaking down under load ???

Cheers
Min

" The AA recovery man described it as the alternator breaking down under load "

He might be right; there again, he might be wrong - most of these folks out on the road nowadays with the AA/RAC are quick to get you off the highway and less inclined to fix modern, complex vehicles on the side of the road.
Generally, they are even less keen when called out to a bike, even one with old school technology! :innocent:

Anyway, for your current issue, you should explain if the engine is running when you check the symptoms; basically, provide as much relevant information as possible.

The state of charge/discharge of the battery depends on such factors.

Its probably the regtifier going bad....

Results just in.
 

Battery fully charged on trickle/load charger this morning. Didn't take voltage but it should have been 13.8v or higher.
24 miles later, no headlights being used 13.2 V

Tickover no lights :14.15 V
Headlight on : 13.2V which after a few minutes is down to 12.7V

Then I took it out twice , 2 miles commuting run 30mph 3rd gear to keep the revs up a bit;

No Lights : Start 13.42 V returned with 13.85 V

Lights : Start 13.85 V returned with 12.60 V

Same route same traffic same ....


Thanks
Min

You still know more about this bike than anyone else
 

So,
Your tests indicate that the bike is charging when the lights are off but it is not charging when the electrical load is higher, with the headlight on.

As Jens says, maybe the RR is failing.

Answers nearly always generate more questions!

Do you have a wiring diagram for this bike?
How is the condition of the wiring loom?
Are all the earth/ground connections good?
Is the battery a known quantity - a good 'un?
Have you changed anything recently?
(An electrical fault might be the result of a particular single event or a gradual deterioration in the loom or a component).

Have a read through this thread for some ideas about fault finding:-
http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hub...charging-67094
The beginning and the end are most relevant, unless your loom is as bad as the one discussed in that thread.

You need to be logical with mechanical problems and even more logical in faults of electrical circuits.

It is relatively simple to do some resistance readings on the stator to check that it is ok. After that suspect rectifier/regulator. Use your manual to find the readings you should get.

You don't have supper bright headlight globes do you? Nor driving lights?

Sounds like the regulator/rectifier is dying and cannot keep up with the load if the lights are on.

What is the charging voltage both with light off and light on, idle and higher speed. It should keep the voltage above 13.5 under load if working correctly and perhaps more.

See above for the voltage readings. I will go through the Electrex fault finding found here....

http://www.electrosport.com/media/pd...ng-diagram.pdf

No big headlights, will whip the rack off and check RR earth etc under the tailpiece.

speak y'all Tuesday

Thanks
Min

It's hard to beat a flow chart for a dose of logic; nice find.
Enjoy!

So I went to Page B after doing the START page and at the bottom of B where it says about the AC voltage out of the stator and three readings not being equal. Two of the readings were around the 70V level and one was 2V ! So what I am going to check next is the wiring closer to the stator to check for continuity to the three way block that goes to the RR.
Makes sense to me and is looking more like the stator according to the flow chart.

Min

Yep,if you lose one of the 3 phases, you are at 2/3's capacity. Good find. I hope you find a wire problem and not the actual stator...

Use a multimeter with continuity test to check your stator!

Disconnect behind the left seat cover and check all three pins coming from the stator have continuity between them all!

Next, check each pin with a good frame ground point! It can NOT have any continuity!

If these test are good, it's just the regulator/rectifier gone bad. IF not, you need a new stator or get yours rewound!

I had the exact same problem and it was actually both the stator and the reg/rectifier gone bad!


Vando :thumbup1:

No continuity with one of the wires either at the connector or bared wire down at the starter motor area . So a rotor is winging its way from Electrex . Now what are the top tips / necesary tools and gaskets for replacing it ?
Apart from a dry day !

Thanks again
Min

Test the new stator before installation! It could be faulty when you get it and rather than find out after you have put it in, do test it first!!!

If you have not ordered any gaskets with the stator then get some silastic (RTV732 or equivalent) and use that in-conjunction with the old gaskets to ensure a seal.

A 'dry day' can be fabricated using a tent fly - rig it over the top of the bike.

Once you have everything back together ... test the electrical system to ensure that it is all working .. rectifier, regulator, battery ...

I guess I should have asked, also, do you have a workshop manual?

I've had the side cover off the generator of a TTR600 (it has the same engine, more or less) but I didn't change the stator.
What I do remember is:-
1. There is oil in there - I think I tipped the bike over on its' side to stop it running out, but I may have drained it (someone else can add to this point).
2. I definitely got a new paper gasket for that cover on the basis that they are one-use only and it is a PITA to put it all back together to then find that there is oil leaking/weeping.