Thanks for all your help guys, I now have one set of very clean carbs.
I'll need to order some parts and then try to refit them :thumbup1: |
As long as you lube it up when you got to refit them, gob on them or a bit of grease, KY jelly if you have some spare, LoL
Serious it makes the job a shit load easier if your lubber is lubricated. Mezo. :thumbup1: |
Cheers Mezo, time to get the Vaseline out :thumbup1:
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That was an excellent tip about the vaseline Mezo, worked a treat. I've got the carbs out, cleaned and back on. Unfortunately the float bowl drain screw was stuck so I got it out but it was a knackered. I ordered a new one (which took nearly 2 weeks to arrive!) and it came with a little spring. I'm sure there wasn't a spring with the one I took out? Do I need to use this spring? I couldn't see one on the parts diagram and the bike started no problem and isn't leaking fuel.
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if there wasn't no spring on the previous one I bet it's still in there in it's place!
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Mine didn't have a spring either, and it was all blasted through with carb cleaner, so I'd expect to have found it.
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Spring doesnt really make a difference when its a screw thats closed.
You need it for like the fuelscrew, which isnt fully turned in/fully seated. It would vibrate looser and looser without it. Put the spring in the bin, and call it weight savings, and enjoy youre, now, motocross-like, xt600 :scooter: |
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Thanks in advance. |
You dont have to buy new intake rubber joint, take it apart and use silikon sealent and high temp glue and its like new. Seem to me like they just used glue in the beginning and because of the heat its loosen the grip from the metal. Maybe they did a better job on the aftermarked joints or is it the same crap? The biggest problem is that most people dont know about engine taking false air in this way, and you get sand right into the piston. I would recon that people having backfiring and idle problems maybe can have false air here, use starter gas and check from time to time around joints.
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thank you John |
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