XT600E Carb Removal?
 

Hi,

My 2003 XT600E is leaking fuel from the carb overflow. I think it's got some crap in there from when I had to put it on reserve recently.

I've got the workshop manual and the carb removal appears pretty straightforward but we all know sometimes this is not the case. Is it as easy as the manual suggests or is it a total arse of job and should I just take it to my friendly mechanic?

Thanks

Both :D

Easy after a few times, but can be a bitch first time.

Theres not much to it tho. I was being way to gently trying to pry it out the first time I removed it. :)

If its like the older XT`s there is a method, i have a tutorial i can send you originally done by the lads in Brazil & translated by myself.

I will post it to you, check your PM`s.

And please don't go posting the links you see all over this forum, it sucks my bandwidth allowance.

Mezo.

Thanks guys, Mezo, that guide is great, thank you.

No problems, it comes out the left side & you have to swing the left intake rubber to get it out, i think you slacken the top intake bolt & remove the lower & just turn it up out of the way? i used this to guide to do mine & it worked fine.

Edit: When you go to put it back smear a bit of grease/oil/wash up liq around both rubber boots, make insertion that much easier, LoL

Mezo.

Well, after riding the bike to work and back, it seems the problem might have fixed itself. I'm hoping it was the float sticking temporarily.

I suppose I'll just have to keep an eye on it, I'd rather not have to delve into the carbs unless I really have to.

just close the petcock just before you park the bike!

That's what I'm doing, but I can't help keep popping out into the garden and turning it back on to see if it will leak :biggrin:

Lol..

The raptor carb on my XT600E also leaks from time to time because even tho I have a fuel filter, there is alot of garbage that finds it's way into the carb bowls and clogs the valve seat, letting the carb overfill and making it leak....

Well, I always close the petcock!
AND ALSO SHOULD ALL OF YOU!

Or else, fuel vapors will go into the engine and mix with the engine oil and that just wastes the oil in much shorter time than it should!



Vando beer

You can also give it a firm knock or three with the handle of a screwdriver (when its leaking) & that will dislodge any grit in the needle valve.

Mezo.

Well a bit of an update - the overflow issue seemed to have stopped but the bike didn't seem quite right. I'm not sure if it was in my mind as I was conscious of the overflow problem but I thought I definitely heard a few light 'pops' on the overrun, like the bike was running lean, so I decided to bite the bullet and get the carbs out. It wasn't too bad, got them out in the end but have hit a snag. The pin that holds the needle valve in is a very tight fit. I had to resort to giving it a tap to get it moving. Now it's moved but sitting flush with the bit of the carb holding it. I'd hoped if I got it moving it would be easy to pull out.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...t/IMG_4729.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...t/IMG_4730.jpg

Should it be that hard to get out? The only other carb I took apart was on a Gas Gas and that pin literally fell out.

Cheers

Scrap that, got it out but how do you get the needle valve seat out? I undid the screw that holds it in but it won't budge.

Also, the needle valve has a definite line/ridge on the pointy bit at the top, I assume from where it sits in the valve seat, does that mean it needs replacing?

Finally the inlet manifold thing that goes into the head from the carb looks like this

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...t/IMG_4735.jpg

The rubber is coming away from the metal, do I need a new one?

Cheers

Hey there.

I'd suggest to change with new manifolds, you don't want the engine sucking dust and other unwanted stuff when the rubber peels off completely, do you?

That's the same problem I had, although mine was more serious (one manifold had peeled off). I ordered new ones off eBay.

Cheers!

The housing of the needle valve you mean? the needle should just drop out but the housing that has the filter behind is a tight fit.

Just get some pliers to it & wiggle/turn back & forth whilst pulling & it will come out, imagine pulling a tooth out. :thumbup1:

Mezo.

Yes, it's worn out. The answer to your problem, I think.

Thanks for all your help guys, I now have one set of very clean carbs.

I'll need to order some parts and then try to refit them :thumbup1:

As long as you lube it up when you got to refit them, gob on them or a bit of grease, KY jelly if you have some spare, LoL

Serious it makes the job a shit load easier if your lubber is lubricated.

Mezo. :thumbup1:

Cheers Mezo, time to get the Vaseline out :thumbup1:

That was an excellent tip about the vaseline Mezo, worked a treat. I've got the carbs out, cleaned and back on. Unfortunately the float bowl drain screw was stuck so I got it out but it was a knackered. I ordered a new one (which took nearly 2 weeks to arrive!) and it came with a little spring. I'm sure there wasn't a spring with the one I took out? Do I need to use this spring? I couldn't see one on the parts diagram and the bike started no problem and isn't leaking fuel.

if there wasn't no spring on the previous one I bet it's still in there in it's place!

Mine didn't have a spring either, and it was all blasted through with carb cleaner, so I'd expect to have found it.

Spring doesnt really make a difference when its a screw thats closed.

You need it for like the fuelscrew, which isnt fully turned in/fully seated. It would vibrate looser and looser without it.

Put the spring in the bin, and call it weight savings, and enjoy youre, now, motocross-like, xt600 :scooter:

Hey Mezo would you like to share the link ill for sure just keep it for my self. Last week i crashed it in deep sand and now the bike is acting funny. i am not super technical. But i would like to learn how to do it your self. It sounds like the tutorial is a good help.
Thanks in advance.

You dont have to buy new intake rubber joint, take it apart and use silikon sealent and high temp glue and its like new. Seem to me like they just used glue in the beginning and because of the heat its loosen the grip from the metal. Maybe they did a better job on the aftermarked joints or is it the same crap? The biggest problem is that most people dont know about engine taking false air in this way, and you get sand right into the piston. I would recon that people having backfiring and idle problems maybe can have false air here, use starter gas and check from time to time around joints.

Hi Mezo do you still have this please ? i understand it is a very old post i am really struggling, and with knackered hands as well it makes it a lot harder.
thank you
John

Mezo R.I.P. 25 November 2021