Well, i looooooooove my bike :scooter:

Header pipe and silencer on their way.

Was going to get either a Unifilter or pipercross.
Unifilter hard to come by, seems silly to order from Aus.

Anyone that uses the pipercross do you have the part number?
MPX048 is what I have been emailing compaines here about but they think it is only for the XT600E 90-99 3TB. I need one for the 2002 4PTB.

The model changed from 3TB to 4TP in 1994/5 in the UK, I think, not 1999.

i think the change was 96 from 3tb to 4pt :innocent:
i'm pretty sure the air box is the same on all years from 1990-99 and i don't think it changed on the last run of the bike from 2000-02

From what I can gather,
90-95 3TB-14451-02
96-99 4PT-14451-01 both use the MPX048 as did the XT500.

I have emailed a few suppliers and none are happy to send one out because pipercross do not list my bike.
Also waiting for a reply from pipercross.

It will probably fit mine but best wait for confirmation from someone who fitted one to a later model as with the cleaner and dirt retention additive it's over £55.

I've used a pipercross filter for my 2003, eventhough the filter was listed for a more early make model. So you should be got to go.

Can you see this photoalbum: Pipercross luftilter, modifikation til xt600 2003 - Motorcykelgalleri.dk

I modded the filter slightly (glued on a little bit) to make it a closer fit to the airbox. Nut sure it needed it, but I needed to be sure :)

Heres one on ebay from 1990-03: PIPERCROSS AIR FILTER YAMAHA XT600E 90-03 on eBay (end time 31-Mar-10 23:21:52 BST)

Thanks Jens for that info, I was reading some old posts and saw that you also have a 2002/03 XT. Mine was first registered in 2003 but an online parts shop told me it is a 2002 model from my chassis and engine number.

Yes I can view your photo album.

The ebay link is for the MPX048, funny how most don't list past 99 model.
Anyway I am happy to order that now. Will also get some cleaner and dirt retention additive.

I booked my bike in for a dyno next Thursday. Seems like a good helpful guy.
I will post the results up when I get them.

He asked what tyres I have on them as knobblies might not give such a good reading. Front one seems more road biased, rear one looks in between.
Will post a pic tomorrow but I think he will manage either way.

Thanks again.

Knobbies will work, but you can get a slighter lower horsepower reading, because of the woobely knobbies, thats all.

A couple of questions for those in the know.

The Devil bigbore SS headers from Kedo, do you use any type of sealant where the 2 single pipes fit into the single SS piece to stop any gas escape? or is the fit tight enough.

Is the air/fuel mixture screw, the one next to the choke on the left side of the carb the same as the one used to adjust the engine idle speed? They call it the "Throttle stop screw" in the owners manual.

The Stainless steel headers from KEDO are now available!
I've just placed my order about 6 minutes ago :Beach:


03XT600E the air/fuel mixture screw should be a very small flat head screw if I recon well..

Please correct me if I'm mistaken...


Vando :innocent:

The throttle stop screw and the air mixture screw are not the same thing.

03xt600e:

The pipe will fit without sealant, as the pipes direct from the header, fit IN the 2-1 tube. You can fit sealant for the peace of your mind, but I havent needed it.

The CO screw is not the same as the idle screw and things in taht region.

The CO scre is in a hidden slot on the underside of the carb, towars the cylinder. The screw is for use with a little flat screwdriver. I use a little universal screwdriver set with sockes (dunn what its called in english) where you fit different types of heads onto the screwdriver with a little adaptor. This ish set: A/S HARALD NYBORG Netbutik - TOPNØGLESÆT 94 DELE - Best.nr. 9266

I use only the flat headed tip, and the adaptor for the "screwdriver/wrench" and use my fingers. A lilte short screwdriver can be bought for jobs like this, but this works for me.

Does that help you?

Bacardi, I received the devil headers from Kedo last week. They are a dull finish not like in the photograph shows but as long as they do the job that's ok :mchappy:

Jens, yes that description was helpful as always, thanks.
I would never have found it otherwise, as I can find no mention of it in the owners, workshop or parts manuals.

I will try to attach a pic of where I think it is, inside a hollow metal tube.

You are right even a stumpy/short screwdriver is too long to get in there, I used the universal adaptor and small screwdriver head only as you suggested. I can feel the end locate into what feels like a screw but can't see the screw at all whilst laying underneath the bike with a bright lead lamp. Before I count the turns out I want to make sure I am in the right place.

Also a pic of the spark plug that was in there which is an NGKDPR7, (bike has done 8000km) looks like engine might be running a bit rich but that may change when I add the header, silencer and air filter next week.

Thats the CO screw yes.

As for reading the spark plug, you must do it three times, as there are 3 overlapping curcuits in the carb, and you need to check each one. Idlejet, needle, and mainjets have influence on theese curcuits. The bike can run lean in the lower area, and rich on top, or the otherway around, så you need to see where your're off.

Run the bike warm.

Idlejet curcuit check: Run for a few minutes to warm up the bike. Then run and keep the revs way dow, without lugging the engine. I'd say keep the revs under 2200rpm, at steady speed. After a few minutes, pull the cluth, and hit the kill switch.

Check the sparkplug color. White = lean = idlescrew need to be turned out a bit. Black = rich = idlescrew needs to be screwed in.

Needle curcuit check, same as idlejet, but run it at around 3800rpm (cruise speed) Check te plug. Black = you need to lover the needle (raise the clip on the needle) White, the opposite. If its only slightly off, you can use shims so you only move the needle half a notch.

Main jet curcuit check: Wide open throttle, otherwise same as above. Black = you need to move down in jet size, White you need to move up.

The plug should have color like chokolatemilk, it can be a bit greyish, but not completely white.

The place on the plug to look is not the threads, but the top of the plug on the little "hook" where the spark goes to. Yours is hard to tell, but doesnt loook bad at all, give us a sharp pic fromt he top.

This will give you a very good estimate of a nicely jettet bike.

This can sound like an effort, but its an hour or two's work, and you need to do it once. When I did mine, I didnt use bolts for the seat or fueltank, then it goes straight off, and takes 2 minutes to check the plug.

Dont use a 100% new plug, it can be hard to "read"

If the bike is stock, all you should need to do, is to adjust the CO screw, if anything.


All theese settings can vary a bit depending on weater. If its could and moist, the air will contain more "air" heh, and the bike wil run leaner. If its hot and dry, it will run a tad richer. Its not much, and thoose variables can be dialed in by the Co screw.

Enjoy. :D

03XT600E I only looked at the pictures and I call already tell you what part of your problem is...

just put the correct sparkplug on your bike!
It's the DPR8EA-9 and not that DPR7! you're one heat size off with that sparkplug!

Change the plugs and then do how Jens mentioned. Its a good startpoint!

What do you mean with a "dull finish"?
could ya take some closeup pictures and email me so I can see?

Vando :cool4: