SS Header pipe
 

I see Motad do a set of replacement pipes that are fully interchangeable and fit the original equipment. They also have the fittings on the pipe to take the original protector.

Is this one performance enhancing?

Kedo do one that is performance enhancing but not street legal so I guess wont pass an M.O.T here in the UK.
They are also out of stock for 10 weeks.

Are there any other alternatives in SS?

You wont gain anything with just an oversize header....you need to open up all the way throug... Airbox/filter, rejet carb and open the exhasut or use a aftermarked one.

I've got the one from kedo, and like it. Havent tried to put the original header on, and see it theres a difference. I did the swap cause my headers vere rusty. It I gain any torque/Hp its just a plus.

I havent head it should't be legal, i mean, how can anyone teel that, and why shouldn't it be? Cant see it, dont know if you have speacial laws regarding that. :)

A bigger header pipe won't affect the noise level, so it wouldn't fail an MoT. That's why silencers have CE markings and header pipes don't. I have the Motad headers. They were a straight swap for the originals, including the heat shield plate, and fitted straight onto the silencer. They went from bright steel to copper-colour in about 10 minutes of idling (suggesting the s/s isn't very high quality), but I don't mind that. I'm well pleased with them.

Yes I understand I would need to open up all the way through.
1 thing at a time.
If I fit the Kedo headers will it still run ok until I adjust the air box and get a new exhaust?

I don't know why it says "not street legal", but it does.
KEDO - BigBore Header Pipe, Stainless Steel 2-1 (3-Piece, Spring Mounted, Polished) Not Street Legal
I see it is back in stock from today too.

Thanks for the info BDZ.
I have to admit I would be pretty disappointed :thumbdown: if the Motad lost it's SS shine so quickly as I am in the process of putting lots of shiny bits and pieces on the bike

All headers loose their shine because of the heat, some polish and stuff will often do wonders for that.

And yes, you should be able to ride without rejetting when fitting only the headers.

hi i have motad on my xt600 03 in year they do discolor but all ss exhaust do due to the heat , no difference in performance just look so much better than standard

They are still shiny - just copper-coloured rather than silver. I could polish it off, but I quite like it. The pipes on my Bandit took several thousand miles to reach this stage, whereas the XT's pipes had discoloured before I even rode it properly - just idling it on the sidestand for a few minutes was enough.

I think the colouring looks OK. It suggests the bike is well used, a bit like the blueing of the chrome on an old Brit bike. Nothing wrong with that :)

I think you'll find the big singles tend to run a fair bit hotter than the Bandit.

Its an off-roader, looks better when the shine goes off a bit !!!

the motad headers are not just polished stainless steel they are coated with a very strange chrome plate thats why they go that funny colour mine did exactly the same :thumbup1:

Aha! That explains it. When I got them I thought the s/s looked a bit funny and not like I expected. It looked a bit 'cheap' compared with OE stainless systems. Now you mention it, it did look to be plated with something.

Oh well, with all the trouble I had taking the old ones off, I'm sure as hell not going to change them now :)

Good to hear all your replies.

Kedo says the german vehicle regulation it does not comply with is
StVZO, §§19, 30, 49 //97/24 EWG. Now everything is clear :)

I am going to get my bike tested on Dyno as it is standard and then again after I have a Kedo header pipe, modified air box, air filter, rejetted, muffler.

Which air filter should I get, K&N?
Which road legal muffler? Stainless Steel hopefully.

I've used a pipercross (piperx) foamfilter, i know nothing about its ability to flow and stuff like that, just wanted a foamfilter since i ride a lot offroad.

Are you gonna rejet it yourself?

When you rejet for the opened up system, go for a #48 idle jet (stock is 46 and 48 is the next step) raise both needles one notch, and stop there. That should be really close.

Try to use same chainkit/gearing, same tires and stuff, so you dont have to many different things that can effect performance.

Please share the results with us.

There is a company advertising that tests the bike on the dyno and then offers to rejet.

But as I am doing this over a period of time as finances allow after the dyno I will get the kedo header pipe. Next air filter, tail pipe. All of which I will install myself.

I have never looked inside a carb and it scares me a bit to think I could really mess things up.
So if I feel it is beyond me I will as the garage to install the jets before testing on the dyno again.

Thanks for the info regarding the jet sizes.
I see the Pilot jet is 43F 14343 23 #46 so will go for #48

So I should leave the main jets as they are?
By raise the needles one notch do you mean adjust the existing needle sets, #'s 47 and 48 in the parts catalogue. 4PT 149OJ 10 & 4PT149OJ 00

I will be happy to share the before and after results.

Yes, raise the stock needles in both carbs (lover the clip)

If you get someone else to rejet your carb, make sure you know which jets they have used.

I think he means lower the clip :)

Lovers are something else!

Well, i looooooooove my bike :scooter:

Header pipe and silencer on their way.

Was going to get either a Unifilter or pipercross.
Unifilter hard to come by, seems silly to order from Aus.

Anyone that uses the pipercross do you have the part number?
MPX048 is what I have been emailing compaines here about but they think it is only for the XT600E 90-99 3TB. I need one for the 2002 4PTB.

The model changed from 3TB to 4TP in 1994/5 in the UK, I think, not 1999.

i think the change was 96 from 3tb to 4pt :innocent:
i'm pretty sure the air box is the same on all years from 1990-99 and i don't think it changed on the last run of the bike from 2000-02

From what I can gather,
90-95 3TB-14451-02
96-99 4PT-14451-01 both use the MPX048 as did the XT500.

I have emailed a few suppliers and none are happy to send one out because pipercross do not list my bike.
Also waiting for a reply from pipercross.

It will probably fit mine but best wait for confirmation from someone who fitted one to a later model as with the cleaner and dirt retention additive it's over £55.

I've used a pipercross filter for my 2003, eventhough the filter was listed for a more early make model. So you should be got to go.

Can you see this photoalbum: Pipercross luftilter, modifikation til xt600 2003 - Motorcykelgalleri.dk

I modded the filter slightly (glued on a little bit) to make it a closer fit to the airbox. Nut sure it needed it, but I needed to be sure :)

Heres one on ebay from 1990-03: PIPERCROSS AIR FILTER YAMAHA XT600E 90-03 on eBay (end time 31-Mar-10 23:21:52 BST)

Thanks Jens for that info, I was reading some old posts and saw that you also have a 2002/03 XT. Mine was first registered in 2003 but an online parts shop told me it is a 2002 model from my chassis and engine number.

Yes I can view your photo album.

The ebay link is for the MPX048, funny how most don't list past 99 model.
Anyway I am happy to order that now. Will also get some cleaner and dirt retention additive.

I booked my bike in for a dyno next Thursday. Seems like a good helpful guy.
I will post the results up when I get them.

He asked what tyres I have on them as knobblies might not give such a good reading. Front one seems more road biased, rear one looks in between.
Will post a pic tomorrow but I think he will manage either way.

Thanks again.

Knobbies will work, but you can get a slighter lower horsepower reading, because of the woobely knobbies, thats all.

A couple of questions for those in the know.

The Devil bigbore SS headers from Kedo, do you use any type of sealant where the 2 single pipes fit into the single SS piece to stop any gas escape? or is the fit tight enough.

Is the air/fuel mixture screw, the one next to the choke on the left side of the carb the same as the one used to adjust the engine idle speed? They call it the "Throttle stop screw" in the owners manual.

The Stainless steel headers from KEDO are now available!
I've just placed my order about 6 minutes ago :Beach:


03XT600E the air/fuel mixture screw should be a very small flat head screw if I recon well..

Please correct me if I'm mistaken...


Vando :innocent:

The throttle stop screw and the air mixture screw are not the same thing.

03xt600e:

The pipe will fit without sealant, as the pipes direct from the header, fit IN the 2-1 tube. You can fit sealant for the peace of your mind, but I havent needed it.

The CO screw is not the same as the idle screw and things in taht region.

The CO scre is in a hidden slot on the underside of the carb, towars the cylinder. The screw is for use with a little flat screwdriver. I use a little universal screwdriver set with sockes (dunn what its called in english) where you fit different types of heads onto the screwdriver with a little adaptor. This ish set: A/S HARALD NYBORG Netbutik - TOPNØGLESÆT 94 DELE - Best.nr. 9266

I use only the flat headed tip, and the adaptor for the "screwdriver/wrench" and use my fingers. A lilte short screwdriver can be bought for jobs like this, but this works for me.

Does that help you?

Bacardi, I received the devil headers from Kedo last week. They are a dull finish not like in the photograph shows but as long as they do the job that's ok :mchappy:

Jens, yes that description was helpful as always, thanks.
I would never have found it otherwise, as I can find no mention of it in the owners, workshop or parts manuals.

I will try to attach a pic of where I think it is, inside a hollow metal tube.

You are right even a stumpy/short screwdriver is too long to get in there, I used the universal adaptor and small screwdriver head only as you suggested. I can feel the end locate into what feels like a screw but can't see the screw at all whilst laying underneath the bike with a bright lead lamp. Before I count the turns out I want to make sure I am in the right place.

Also a pic of the spark plug that was in there which is an NGKDPR7, (bike has done 8000km) looks like engine might be running a bit rich but that may change when I add the header, silencer and air filter next week.

Thats the CO screw yes.

As for reading the spark plug, you must do it three times, as there are 3 overlapping curcuits in the carb, and you need to check each one. Idlejet, needle, and mainjets have influence on theese curcuits. The bike can run lean in the lower area, and rich on top, or the otherway around, så you need to see where your're off.

Run the bike warm.

Idlejet curcuit check: Run for a few minutes to warm up the bike. Then run and keep the revs way dow, without lugging the engine. I'd say keep the revs under 2200rpm, at steady speed. After a few minutes, pull the cluth, and hit the kill switch.

Check the sparkplug color. White = lean = idlescrew need to be turned out a bit. Black = rich = idlescrew needs to be screwed in.

Needle curcuit check, same as idlejet, but run it at around 3800rpm (cruise speed) Check te plug. Black = you need to lover the needle (raise the clip on the needle) White, the opposite. If its only slightly off, you can use shims so you only move the needle half a notch.

Main jet curcuit check: Wide open throttle, otherwise same as above. Black = you need to move down in jet size, White you need to move up.

The plug should have color like chokolatemilk, it can be a bit greyish, but not completely white.

The place on the plug to look is not the threads, but the top of the plug on the little "hook" where the spark goes to. Yours is hard to tell, but doesnt loook bad at all, give us a sharp pic fromt he top.

This will give you a very good estimate of a nicely jettet bike.

This can sound like an effort, but its an hour or two's work, and you need to do it once. When I did mine, I didnt use bolts for the seat or fueltank, then it goes straight off, and takes 2 minutes to check the plug.

Dont use a 100% new plug, it can be hard to "read"

If the bike is stock, all you should need to do, is to adjust the CO screw, if anything.


All theese settings can vary a bit depending on weater. If its could and moist, the air will contain more "air" heh, and the bike wil run leaner. If its hot and dry, it will run a tad richer. Its not much, and thoose variables can be dialed in by the Co screw.

Enjoy. :D

03XT600E I only looked at the pictures and I call already tell you what part of your problem is...

just put the correct sparkplug on your bike!
It's the DPR8EA-9 and not that DPR7! you're one heat size off with that sparkplug!

Change the plugs and then do how Jens mentioned. Its a good startpoint!

What do you mean with a "dull finish"?
could ya take some closeup pictures and email me so I can see?

Vando :cool4:

Bacardi, I do not have a problem, the bike runs really well.
You are correct about the spark plug ID, I noticed it when I looked at it yesterday.
As it has only done 8000km according to the service specifications it would not need changing until 20000km.
But I bought the correct one a few weeks back as a spare anyway.

I will take some pictures to send you of the SS header pipe tomorrow. My camera is not so good but I will try.

Jens, thanks for the detailed reply and instructions on how to read the spark plug.
As I am getting it put on the dyno tomorrow I can check the air/fuel ratio from there (hopefully the read out will be like your format).
Then I will be fitting the new header and filter both of which I have so this may lean it out anyway. The silencer should be here in a few days.

Then dyno again.

Did you ever get a second dyno after your modifications?

me? Yeah got it on a dyno after the mods, but with poor jetting, way lean in the bottom, and very rich int he top. Guess how i leaned the whole "read the spark plug" thing =)

It showed same HP output, the curve broke when the mixture got too rich. Im not after top effect, but i know 40 horses on the wheel can be achieved with filter, header, exhaust and rejet/dyno jetkit. (as in, without digging into the engine)

I would use the correct spark plug, and use the wrong one for a spare. Actually i would through the wroong one out, and use the couple of bucks for a correct one, for a spare :)

IM really looking forward to your're results, hope you share them with us asap :)

:offtopic:

Guestimating, how many HP do you guys think one should obtain on the back wheel with stickys , raptor 660 carb with dyno jetkit, new K&N filters, Devil bigbore SS headers, 06 WR450 rear or Jardine universal muffler?

Richard any ideas?

Vando :Beach:

Who? Me? No idea, I'm afraid. I haven't done any of this performance mod stuff with mine. I'm just grateful if it starts and keeps going :)

I am pleased and lucky that my XT runs nice and smoothe so I certainly don't want to mess too much and ruin what I have.
The SS headers, pipercross filter and marving silencer will probably do me.
I don't think the marving silencer is particularly performance enhancing but it looks better and certainly weighs a lot less.

Just for fun I weighed the stock header and silencer, 7KG 15 1/2 lbs.

I will be happy with a 3-4BHP (10%) increase at the wheel and don't really want to get into rejetting.

Bacardi I took a couple of pics of the devil header to send you.

Jens I have the print outs from today, very interesting results.

Apparently there are different ways to test, mine was done at "wheel SAE", not sure about yours so hope we can still compare notes.

Unfortunately I do not have a scanner so I used my average digital camera.
Hope it will be viewable other wise I will have to think of another way to post them.

Dyno was done with stock bike.
The picture is of Torque and BHP.
The website wont let me post the print out for throttle response, speed and BHP because I have exceeded my quota whatever that means.

10% increase sounds about right for a freeflow exhaust and air filter with corrective jetting :thumbup1: so should be nigh on 40bhp at the rear wheel :mchappy:

Cant see it real good, how many hp ont he wheel? Mine was 34,6 with oepend up stock exhasut and pipercross filter, uh and the airboxcover renoved. That was meassured on a road tire.

had a closer look and it looks like its making about 33bhp in standard trim, the new headers will be the extra advantage so i'd say in total if the jetting is right he might just get it upto 38bhp :cool4:

32.9 hp @ 5812 rpm Torque 43.6 m.N 3737 rpm
33.2 hp @ 5734 rpm Torque 44.6 m.N 3758 rpm
33.4 hp @ 5765 rpm Torque 44.7 m.N 3904 rpm

With a Kingstire knobbly, there is a pic of it in another thread.
I am going to change them to Avon Distanzias.

Got home after dyno and fitted the ss headers, took for a 5 mile ride. Came back and fitted the air filter. Waiting for the silencer and iridium plug then I can take it back for another dyno.

I'll be happy with 37BHP at the wheel.

Don't think I want to open up the air box or rejet unless I have to.
The guy said it is running really well and the throttle response was smoothe all the way 167KPH.

He also printed out the "Crankshaft DIN"
37.2 hp @ 5812 rpm so it lost 11.75% from crank to wheel.
37.4 hp @ 5734 rpm so it lost 11% from crank to wheel.
37.6 hp @ 5765 rpm sp it lost 11% from crank to wheel.

10-15% is what I had heard would be lost from crank to wheel so this fits but it is well short of the 44-45 BHP Yamaha give it in the specifications.

yam quoted 43bhp on the old literature plus your bike has got 7 years on it from new so it will have lost some of its power anyway also corrected bhp is still not an exact figure there are factors like chain weight wear and length on top of tyre friction losses so dont worry too much about any figures quoted on your dyno runs as long as it goes up after the mods and it rides well enjoy the the beastie :thumbup1:

just looked at the dyno for my rf900 it says 128.4bhp rear wheel din so corrected horsepower at 11% would put a 1994 rf900 at nigh on 140bhp which is pretty impresive even by todays standards

GSXR X40F0X on a XT600Z 3AJ
 

Id say they was tight enough already, just got mine last week & the fit is pretty tight (push fit).
I thought it came with sealer then worked out they had sent me a licorice wheel (looks like exhaust sealant). :blushing:

http://www.lightwire.net.au/tenere/s...%20headers.jpg

Im going to be using a Gixxer 1000 titanium can on mine (2kg),
flange is on order & need to have a midpipe made at 45mm not the 42mm it drops to on the left of the pic.
This is a mod done on the DR650`s by MX-Rob i had a spare can so i thought try it on the XT.

http://www.lightwire.net.au/tenere/X...%203AJ%20a.JPG

You can see more here.

Mezo.

Yes wolfzero a 10% gain in bhp from a couple of simple mods can't be bad.

As I prefer twisty country lanes to straight roads or motorway riding I would like to lose some top end speed and gain some acceleration so was thinking of changing my 15 tooth front sprocket to a 13 tooth. I think I read of someone using a 14 and it was not enough difference.

Mezo, always glad to see pics of other XT's.
Lol at the liquorice, when I first saw it I thought it was sealant too.
I had some sealant in the garage but fitted the headers yesterday and it is not leaking at all so did not use it.
I found the flanges were bending as I tightened the nuts to the head.
Did you get the 2 plastic spring covers? Not necessary in my opinon as they are well clear of the pipes.

03XT600E Don't go smaller on the front sprocket, go BIGGER on the back!
Yes you might need a longer chain.. but what you'll save in terms of engine life will is alot more than going cheap on the front sprocket..
but hey, it's up to you....

I'm thinking of going 15/47 on my 600e and get a 16 front sprocket just to try it out with 16/45


Vando :cool4:

I'd go for a larger rear too. If you go too small on the front, you may have several negative issues:
The chain will be nearer the swingarm & may rub.
The tighter the chain has to turn, the more wear & more power loss.
Larger sprox wear better as the load is spread over more area.

Just me 2p worth :mchappy:

Thanks for the information regarding sprockets, I had not considered the negative effects.

I am prepared to lose 10-15mph off the top end to get some more poke.
As I understand it -1 tooth on the front is = to +3 teeth on the rear (please correct me if I am wrong).

So would going from 15/45 to 14/47 be the thing to do or may that still cause problems by reducing the front?

If so I guess 15/47 will have to do.

I've got 14, 15 and 16 cs sprockes, and 45 and 47 at the rea, so lots of possible choices. I also have a new did vx chain lying around

The plan was to ride 15/47 for everyday, and change the cs to 14 for some really fun (used that gearing for an enduro = perfect) and 16/47 for roadtrips on the highway. I bout a chain with extra lengt.

The time will tell what i figure out, i just know its nice to have options. I''ve modfied the Cs sprocket-cover so I wont have to take the gearlever off, saves time and effort.

I'd say go with a 14cs and try it out, it wont kill swingarm or its protection, and you can use stock chain. The bike doesn't gain "much" but it gives it more lov end grunt, and makes the bike more rev-able. A 15/47 is not as agressive as 14/45. btw 15/47 can be done with stock gearing to.

Just to be controversial: I have gone down one tooth on the gearbox sprocket on a couple of bikes (one an XT660R) with no ill effects at all. It will wear the chain slightly faster, as each link turns through a bigger angle, but that's all. No new chain to buy, and it's an easy job to change. It's one of the cheapest and easiest ways to enhance performance that I know of.

Simple way to see what the effect of a change is - divide the rear sprocket teeth by the front. Standard is often 15/45, which gives you 3.00. Going to a 14T on the front would give you 3.21 (lower gearing, better acceleration, lower top speed). Incidentally, that's a change of about 7%, which is quite noticeable, believe me. The only advantage to changing the rear is that you get to make a finer change, as one tooth on the front is equivalent to roughly three on the rear. 14/47 would be a ratio of 3.36, which is 12%, quite a difference.

Fantastic, thanks both for the information.
7% better acceleration is definitely worth having and will suit me better as I don't enjoy the XT on motorways and prefer the twisty county lanes at a lower speed.

I have scrapped the 13 tooth front sprocket idea and ordered 14/47 sprockets earlier today. I will do the front sprocket alone first and add the 47 later. Tyres should be here tomorrow too.

Gearing Commander: Motorcycle Gearing Ratio Sprocket RPM Speed Chain Calculator

I've added the 1990 xt600e, the gearing should be the same from 1990 and up.

Very helpful tool.

Now that is a very clever tool, I like it.

It also confirms the 7% and 12% changes to be expected.

[phew] My maths is still up for it, eh?

:-)

Yes your maths is good :)

My sprockets arrive tomorrow and as I still have the back wheel off from changing the tyre I could fit both sprockets.

Obviously the chain will still fit if I fit the 14 tooth front sprocket but will the existing chain still fit with 14/47?

Jens you mentioned that you have modified your front sprocket cover so that you don't need to take the gear change lever off. Did you just cut off the piece of plastic where the bolt hole is?

My boddy helped me make a new cover in aluminium. Will post a pic on monday :)

I wish I had buddies like that :)

Fitting the header pipes, marving silencer and pipercross filter did not make a noticeable difference to the performance but the second dyno next week will be able to tell for sure one way or the other.
On a 30 mile ride last week it runs fine, acceleration is as smooth as before, no lurching, no hesitation but there were a couple of pops/small backfires on deceleration so it might have leaned out a bit with the modifications.
Maybe I need to wind the mixture screw out 1/2 a turn?

It's possibly because there is no gasket in between silencer and headers. I bought a graphite one but there is no room to get one in as the parts are a tight fit without.

Gotta say I am loving the 14/47 sprockets, just what I wanted. It's great up hills in every gear.

I've been looking at silencers, how do you find the marving silencer?

Did you need to buy a new chain when you changed the sprockets?

You can use he following on a stock chain for sure (i've tried)

15-45 (stock)
15-47
14-45
14-47

ANd ofcourse thing in between, as 15-46 and 14-46 aswell. You can probably gear it a bit higher asweel, but i havent tried. 16-45 should fit to.

I forgot to take photos of my cs-sprocket cover tho' :(

xtremity afaik the marving is not performance enhancing. It should pass the M.O.T though and I like the chrome look. It's a couple of kilos lighter than the stock but no way to get inside the marving if you wanted to.

I used the same chain with the 14/47 sprockets.

For me I love to ride on twisty country lanes, there are loads near me. I am not interested in high speeds. Just to test it today it goes 80 at 6000 RPM but I spend most my time at between 30 and 60 mph.
I actually want to try 13/50 sprockets if they do them to fit the XT600E, anyone know?

Bike runs smoothe, throttle response still feels good after the modifications (headers, silencer, snorkel off, piperx filter, iridium plug), no lurching or stuttering. Just the occasional pop when riding downhill with no throttle and when letting off from full throttle.
It may be because there was no room to fit a gasket between headers and sliencer but the clamp is very tight.

My air/fuel screw was exactly 4 turns out, I tried 4 1/2 and 5 turns out.
Still runs the same.

i assume your talking about the whole exhaust system? the law has no say in what downpipes you use, its the endcan that is stamped and thats not important these days, its the testers "opinion" that counts

i have the motad pipes with lazer pro'duro can, the packing has blown out long ago and its well loud but when the tester questions it its fully stamped up and ive kept the certificate from lazer so he says "well thats fair enough then...."

and, performance wise, dont expect much whatever you spend on it, its a 40hp on a good day air cooled single. if you want performance get a KTM husky husaberg competition bike and service it every 1000mi

Well, here it is, "slightly" delayed. Its nicely made by my mate, and it makes it a lot easier to change the sprocket.

http://peecee.dk/uploads/042010/DSC00631.JPG
http://peecee.dk/uploads/042010/DSC00632.JPG

I have the kedo/devil headers, piperx filter, snorkel off and a marving silencer which I bought because it is road legal and will pass the MoT.

But the marving silencer is restricting the bike so I need a second hand performance enhancing silencer before the next dyno in 11 days time.
So if anyone is selling one or sees one on Ebay for a 4PT please let me know.

If you like other mufflers just contact the seller on ebay and ask him the ID of the muffler's inlet and the length!

Inlet has to be the same size as your stock exhaust or matching the OD of the outlet of the KEDO downpipes!

As for length, a longer muffler will be better for high speed..MIDDLE TO TOP RPM!
A shorter muffler will be for ''power'' { LOW to MIDDLE RPM!}


Vando :cool4:

I did not notice any improvement to the performance of the bike with the headers, piperx and silencer until I took the snorkel out, then I definitely noticed the bike had more pull.

But the Dyno showed the BHP pretty much the same (33) although torque was better/higher.

The guy said he had another XT600 in last week, not sure what silencer he had but he used a dynojet kit
Motorcycle Exhausts from BR Special Tuning and got 37 BHP and got a second curve around 5500 revs when the secondary carb cut in.

My graph was smoothe until about 5500rpm when the line jumped about a bit, he said it is running weak from 5500rpm and could do with the dynojet kit which is a stage 2 kit.

So I am not sure if I should get another silencer, probably no point getting another road legal one, if I get one it will need to be a race can but I don't want be getting pulled by the police or annoying my neighbours with the extra noise.

I could also get the dyno kit fitted, cost of kit plus 2 hours labour unless I can do it myself?
Or maybe doing what others here have done, raising both stock needles, lower the clip, 46-48 idle jet.

I know them twisty`s your talking about, i had 12 yrs of holidays down your way, Croyde Bay, Ilfracombe, Barnstaple,
them`s blind corner one after the other, Haa :mchappy:
Bit like the TT or a London dispatch rider :mchappy: crazy feckers.

Go get one of them Gixxer cans like im doing on my project, they are cheap as hell in the UK, or got to you tube & search GSXR + DR650, they don`t need repacking, they are light as anything (2kg) & they look road legal.

I just gave my heads a quick tickle up the ports, them factory restrictions don`t do the flow any good :no:

http://www.lightwire.net.au/tenere/Porting1.JPG

Only a couple of hours work will give you that snappy throttle response you crave, its not about BHP, its how it feels in your hand.

http://www.lightwire.net.au/tenere/Porting3.JPG

http://www.lightwire.net.au/tenere/Porting4.JPG

Mezo.

My 3AJ rebuilds here.

mezo opening the ports up is fine dont make the inlet ports too smooth its the textured surface which helps make the fuel and air to mix better i've seen performance knocked off by over doing the port finish :innocent: the combustion chamber is normally fine just a de coke is enough to keep that clean :cool4: the exhaust ports can be as smooth as you like the headers are enough to keep the back pressure wave intact :thumbup1:

03XT600E dont waste your money on a dyno jet kit you are better off getting a handfull of jets and a book on carburetor tuning you will get more out of doing it that way than handing it over to a so called professional who will probably **** it up quite a few times before getting it back to just a fraction better than it was before taking all your money :rolleyes2: your hic up at 5500 rev is pretty normal for the mods you have its the secondary carb kicking in and is more than likely the main/needle jet than needs going up 1 size or the needle does need to go up a notch :thumbup1: