Get the correct puller for the job or build one. Firstly, to get the flywheel rotor nut off your going to need an airgun or a VERY STRONG rotor strap and a 3 metre breaker bar ! That nut is held on with 160NM plus threadlock (so dont be dissolusioned thinking it can be done with a rachet and putting the bike in gear with the brake on method)

When the nuts off, You WONT get the rotor off without doing damage without a proper rotor puller.

The yamaha part number for the tool is Yamaha Magneto puller: 90890-01362

Cheers for that.

There is a tyre shop about 80 meters from where i am staying, so i think it will pay for me to push it over there and borrow his airgun.

We also have a full workshop (power station) in work, and a decent set of pullers which can be modified/ added to.

I've never realy worked on a bike engine before ( i have the mechanical skills and tools (i'm a mechanical fitter by trade). From what i've read is this the basic way forwrd to replace the cam chain

1* cup of coffee and roll up
2* remove seat, tank, carbs, rocker cover, crank case cover, drain oil
3* get friendly tyre fitter to remove rotor bolt
4* using correct puller remove rotor
5* set engine to timing marks
6* remove cam chain adjuster
7* remove cam
8* remove cam chain
9* remove guides
10* replace guides and chain
11* refit cam/chain to timing marks
12* refit chain adjuster
13* rotate engine by hand to check timing marks
14* refit rotor
15* check valve clearances while i'm there
16* refit covers/carbs, tank and seat etc
17* refil oil
18* cross fingers and start engine
19* if all is well celebrate with beer and cigaretts

If i've missed anything obvious, or its all wrong, please let me know. I realy don't want to mess this up :biggrin: :confused1: :biggrin:

Cheers

cpp

remember the rotor nut is a standard right hand thread, not a left hand thread like on many rotors. You dont want to be tightening that any more with an airgun.

Remember to apply a small amount of thread lock to the cam gear bolts and rotor bolts on reassembley.

you an engineer so im sure you know that you should ALWAYS use a torque wrench.

Buy a full gasket set before you start the job.

I've had a rethink Ted,

these are the new steps

1* collect new chain and guides from dealer
2* deliver bike to competent mechanic
3* collect upon completion
4* test ride
5* park up bike if all ok
6* celebrate by picking up a pint with my clean and un-scarred hands

The reasons for this are numerous, but basicaly i'm from south wales (thats not a reason :biggrin: ) but am working in oxfordshire and living in a caravan. i was hoping to get home this weekend to get the work done, but i'll be stuck here till the end of november. My awning isn't very well equipted enough to do the work (plus the minister for home affairs wouldn't be too impressed with bits of XT kicking arround the caravan).

So now its down to the task of finding a competent mechanic. Happy Days :biggrin:

Thanks for the help.

PS. This is a picture of the bike. If the previous owner is in here somewhere i'm looking after her

Paul

Good idea.. Its generally not a good idea to have your first big bike job split between caravan and workshops etc, especially as you ALWAYS need something you havnt thought of.

Find a nice competent workshop and keep the reciepts etc and get a quote before handing over your keys. Shouldnt be more than 2 horus labour if all goes smoothly. www.visordown.com 's workshop section should point you in the right direction.

I like the paint scheme with the red seat cover

here's mine in Joyce Kilmore National Forest in WNC

http://www.blueridge.net/~us/firstch...04_ride/06.JPG

Bit of an update
 

Droped the bike off at the workshop (will post the details when i get the bike returned repaired), and after a long discusion about the bloody awfull noise it was making decided to pull the engine out and give it a good looking at.

The first report the next morning was "Paul there is no oil in this bike!!!". That might explain a few things i thought :confused1: Once the engine was out, with every bolt holding on for dear life i went to have a look, the cam chain was so worn that i could get a pencil betwwen the chain and sprocket :eek3: :eek3:

The next test was geting the gen rotor off the crank. I made a proper puller , but with the tension on and the puller bending there was still no movement. So some heat was applied, then some more, then just a few degrees extra and off it came :mad2: . now got a slightly blue end to the crank.

My man then split the crank case but all is well, bearings OK and no sign of anything broken

There is a bit of scoring to the bore, but i had a 4"-5" hone on my desk (the perks of engineering) and with a little lick and a new set of rings, a quick lap of the valves and new guide seals things are looking good :thumbup1: :biggrin:

Hopefuly by next week (the guy is on holiday for a few days in Gods country (south wales)) the new cam chain, guides gaskets and a big dollop of fresh earth juice will be in place, then its happy days and ready for some winter hooning fun.

The guy usualy charges by the hour, but i've managed to get a fixed price (along with some power plant swag) so the bank shouldn't be broken.

If all is well i'll post the guys details. he knows his stuff, is an ex racer and main dealer mechanic with a sorted little workshop and at the moment all round nice fella.

again, many thanks for the help and advice.

P

Just got the bike bike, and its running like a dream, the noise has all but gone, just a little bit of piston slap but i can live with that.

just one question though. Oil level? after riding it back from the mechanic i turned off the engine and checked the level and could actualy see the oil in the frame, and it registered half way up the dipstick :confused1: is this right or should i drain a bit out???

Cheers
Paul

Sounds fine..

Check the oil like this:

1) Warm up the bike for 3-5 mins
2) Get her level by sitting on her or put her on a paddock stand.. NOT the side stand.
3) Unscrew dip stick and clean with rag or tissue etc
4) Pop the stick back in and rest it on top of the thread (Do not screw it in)

Oil level should be between max and min, if its in the middle then that perfect.

If its higher or lower then add/remove a bit at a time until its between max and min

Happy travels

Cheers for that, it was a bit full so took half a litre out.

Paul