Pulling a 3AJ alternator rotor
 

Anyone with experience pulling an alternator rotor off a 3AJ engine?

This is the electric start that has three hex-cap bolts going through the rotor and (presumably) into the alu spacer behind it.

Do you have to remove these three allen/hex bolts before pulling the rotor?

I have the nut off and have installed a suitable puller into the three M10 threaded holes, however it won't budge even with not-so-gentle taps on the main puller bolt that presses onto the end of the crank.

Help?



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Barry
3AJ Tenere

No need to take out the 3 Allen bolts.
Just for insurance, put back the nut on the crank to protect a bit the threaded part.
Then, put tension on the rotor by screwing in the central puller bolt.
Then hit the central bolt HARD with fi a leaden hammer.
Repeat as required, there might be some damage to the thread on the crank but it is the only way .....

Auke

I took the flywheel off my 660 last night. Just don't have mercy with the tools when tightening the central puller bolt. And make sure that you apply some Secret Agent WD-40 to the thread and the head mating surface. Then hit the thing!

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Fred, XTZ660, Holland.

Hi,

What size is the required flywheel puller for the 3AJ?

Taco

It's a special tool. Can for instance be bought from kedo.com.

Auke

You can use a standard puller too - just find one that fits.

I still haven't managed to get my flywheel off!



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Barry
3AJ Tenere

I still haven't managed to get my flywheel off!

Hit it one GOOD CLOUT! make sure your puller is dead square on the flywheel & good,n tight!

AKE SURE[/B][/QUOTE]

Im having the same problem... What kind of puller do i need ? Iv only got the ones which thread into the centre on conventional one.. it doesnt seem to work on this !!

<a href="http://imageshack.us"><img src="http://img400.imageshack.us/img400/8545/rotor010largekeygh2.jpg" border="0" alt="Image Hosted by ImageShack.us" /></a>

Rotor 3aj
 

Hello,

Sorry but.. avoid hitting the crank with a hammer, it's really not good for the
bearings, they are allready the 3AJ's weakpoint on the rotor side.
Undecompressed cylinder, heavy rotor and heavy torque from starter engine makes them spin in case or on crank, at 100 000 K's crank can be demetalised enough that a new bearing won't fit.
The solution is to glue them with permanent lochtite.
Bearing don't like side forces, rotor will go off but the bearing might be nasty hit.
Try finding an inerty extractor and fasten it in the three holes, it hits also, but in the right direction !
Or build one, shouldn't be to difficult, three screws,one axle and a big weight
moving around the axle, hitting its end like a hammer when pulled out.
Or use a solid extractor and screw it out with WD40 and patience.


Matt

I agree. I for one will not be hitting it with a hammer. Iv purchased a proper puller for the bike. Basically a 10mm disc with 3 cut outs for the pulling points and a centre thread which a large bolt goes through and forces teh disc back and with it , the rotor.

Once i have it delivered and im happy with it, im going to make some copies and sell them on ebay for £10. 1/3 price Iv paid for mine.

3aj Rotor
 

Hello,

As you say its only a disc and four screws..
By the way.. I do have the drawings for the tool and could send them to you.
They are also available on the site of the french ténéré club, though you'll have to find the adress by yourself, cause I have forgotten it since, maybe with the help of a search engine, try yahoo.fr.


Matt

I have that puller
 

But you still need the hammer to shock the flywheel sufficiently ..... I hope you ar lucky.

Auke

Rotor
 

Maybe if you do like Fred says, you put WD40 everywhere, then you take the tool in the evening, screw it as tight as possible, so the thing is under tention.
Go to sleep and maybe in the morning it will go off if you continue screwing.
Miracles can happend.

Matt

Iv not needed one on any other bike... Hammers and rotors dont mix well usually :smartass:

Ill let you know when the took arrives.

Hi folks,

Just bought a 91 XTZ660, afetr a week a rattling noise apeared, so after checking this forum (many thanks by the way) i checked the cam chain adjuster (removing the spring first) and found it has bee pushed out to its maximum!!!!!!!!

Don't realy fancy taking the engine out, so i've ordered a new chain (from Yamaha) and 2 new guides, and tonight i'm going in and try to figure out how to take the flywheel off without causing more damage :biggrin: :biggrin:

I'll take some pics and try to post them as its going on, just don't laugh at the bleeding nuckles :biggrin:

Get the correct puller for the job or build one. Firstly, to get the flywheel rotor nut off your going to need an airgun or a VERY STRONG rotor strap and a 3 metre breaker bar ! That nut is held on with 160NM plus threadlock (so dont be dissolusioned thinking it can be done with a rachet and putting the bike in gear with the brake on method)

When the nuts off, You WONT get the rotor off without doing damage without a proper rotor puller.

The yamaha part number for the tool is Yamaha Magneto puller: 90890-01362

Cheers for that.

There is a tyre shop about 80 meters from where i am staying, so i think it will pay for me to push it over there and borrow his airgun.

We also have a full workshop (power station) in work, and a decent set of pullers which can be modified/ added to.

I've never realy worked on a bike engine before ( i have the mechanical skills and tools (i'm a mechanical fitter by trade). From what i've read is this the basic way forwrd to replace the cam chain

1* cup of coffee and roll up
2* remove seat, tank, carbs, rocker cover, crank case cover, drain oil
3* get friendly tyre fitter to remove rotor bolt
4* using correct puller remove rotor
5* set engine to timing marks
6* remove cam chain adjuster
7* remove cam
8* remove cam chain
9* remove guides
10* replace guides and chain
11* refit cam/chain to timing marks
12* refit chain adjuster
13* rotate engine by hand to check timing marks
14* refit rotor
15* check valve clearances while i'm there
16* refit covers/carbs, tank and seat etc
17* refil oil
18* cross fingers and start engine
19* if all is well celebrate with beer and cigaretts

If i've missed anything obvious, or its all wrong, please let me know. I realy don't want to mess this up :biggrin: :confused1: :biggrin:

Cheers

cpp

remember the rotor nut is a standard right hand thread, not a left hand thread like on many rotors. You dont want to be tightening that any more with an airgun.

Remember to apply a small amount of thread lock to the cam gear bolts and rotor bolts on reassembley.

you an engineer so im sure you know that you should ALWAYS use a torque wrench.

Buy a full gasket set before you start the job.

I've had a rethink Ted,

these are the new steps

1* collect new chain and guides from dealer
2* deliver bike to competent mechanic
3* collect upon completion
4* test ride
5* park up bike if all ok
6* celebrate by picking up a pint with my clean and un-scarred hands

The reasons for this are numerous, but basicaly i'm from south wales (thats not a reason :biggrin: ) but am working in oxfordshire and living in a caravan. i was hoping to get home this weekend to get the work done, but i'll be stuck here till the end of november. My awning isn't very well equipted enough to do the work (plus the minister for home affairs wouldn't be too impressed with bits of XT kicking arround the caravan).

So now its down to the task of finding a competent mechanic. Happy Days :biggrin:

Thanks for the help.

PS. This is a picture of the bike. If the previous owner is in here somewhere i'm looking after her

Paul

Good idea.. Its generally not a good idea to have your first big bike job split between caravan and workshops etc, especially as you ALWAYS need something you havnt thought of.

Find a nice competent workshop and keep the reciepts etc and get a quote before handing over your keys. Shouldnt be more than 2 horus labour if all goes smoothly. www.visordown.com 's workshop section should point you in the right direction.

I like the paint scheme with the red seat cover

here's mine in Joyce Kilmore National Forest in WNC

http://www.blueridge.net/~us/firstch...04_ride/06.JPG

Bit of an update
 

Droped the bike off at the workshop (will post the details when i get the bike returned repaired), and after a long discusion about the bloody awfull noise it was making decided to pull the engine out and give it a good looking at.

The first report the next morning was "Paul there is no oil in this bike!!!". That might explain a few things i thought :confused1: Once the engine was out, with every bolt holding on for dear life i went to have a look, the cam chain was so worn that i could get a pencil betwwen the chain and sprocket :eek3: :eek3:

The next test was geting the gen rotor off the crank. I made a proper puller , but with the tension on and the puller bending there was still no movement. So some heat was applied, then some more, then just a few degrees extra and off it came :mad2: . now got a slightly blue end to the crank.

My man then split the crank case but all is well, bearings OK and no sign of anything broken

There is a bit of scoring to the bore, but i had a 4"-5" hone on my desk (the perks of engineering) and with a little lick and a new set of rings, a quick lap of the valves and new guide seals things are looking good :thumbup1: :biggrin:

Hopefuly by next week (the guy is on holiday for a few days in Gods country (south wales)) the new cam chain, guides gaskets and a big dollop of fresh earth juice will be in place, then its happy days and ready for some winter hooning fun.

The guy usualy charges by the hour, but i've managed to get a fixed price (along with some power plant swag) so the bank shouldn't be broken.

If all is well i'll post the guys details. he knows his stuff, is an ex racer and main dealer mechanic with a sorted little workshop and at the moment all round nice fella.

again, many thanks for the help and advice.

P

Just got the bike bike, and its running like a dream, the noise has all but gone, just a little bit of piston slap but i can live with that.

just one question though. Oil level? after riding it back from the mechanic i turned off the engine and checked the level and could actualy see the oil in the frame, and it registered half way up the dipstick :confused1: is this right or should i drain a bit out???

Cheers
Paul

Sounds fine..

Check the oil like this:

1) Warm up the bike for 3-5 mins
2) Get her level by sitting on her or put her on a paddock stand.. NOT the side stand.
3) Unscrew dip stick and clean with rag or tissue etc
4) Pop the stick back in and rest it on top of the thread (Do not screw it in)

Oil level should be between max and min, if its in the middle then that perfect.

If its higher or lower then add/remove a bit at a time until its between max and min

Happy travels

Cheers for that, it was a bit full so took half a litre out.

Paul