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It's an '88 US model. This particular year the needles can't be shimmed do to the holder and setscrew not allowing any up down movement of the needle. I was able to flip the one washer to the top to drop them a little but that's it. I was always thinking of making my own jets(the best solution), but time to do it plus the fact that I have the Raptor carbs to put in already, don't know if it's worth it. I see in parts breakdowns, other years have moveable needles, mine seem to be oddballs, probably why I have issues and most others don't.
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I still have problem with leak, done the sealing about 5 times now with different seals. Last i bought the yamabond with no luck, the leak is located in front right side at the innerscrew. Any good suggestion how to get this fixed? its not much that comes out, but its dripping down on the exhaust pipe..
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Hi xtrock,
I have no answer for you, i am replying just to say you are not alone with a leak in the area you have. Mine leaks since i replaced the valve seals two years ago. I used loctite 5920 amd i thought i was very careful when i was applying it It was my intention to fix it when i could, but after reading about your trouble I may not bother Good luck! Bill |
None of the five motors I have together either in bike or was in a bike have that leak, though most do have some little seeps here and there, but no dripping. The area your talking about is the hottest area, right above the exhaust valves, I wonder if that has anything to do with it. I put my thermocouples there for watching head temp and there is quite a difference in temps between there and else ware on the head. I see 250 to 280F when going slow or stoplight traffic.
I use Permatex Specialty Gasket Makers : Permatex® MotoSeal® 1 Ultimate Gasket Maker Grey |
Yes its hot there, but its not in the front where its hottest the problem is. Its more from that screw and towards spark plug, wonder if the cover is not straight enough at the point and seal is not enough. Most job with sealing this is getting the seal stuff off.. Ill give it one more shot and inspect the area where problem is, 10nm is not much on the bolts and if its not correct i recon to much pressure will squeeze the sealint out on the thinnest points.
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Ok here we go again, sealed again this weekend and waited 3 days before use. Same spot around the left screw, surface was straight, no damage and cleaned perfect. I cant see any leak when engine is only idling, must happend something when riding. Maybe i ride in hills and get alot of oil in front, but why only on this spot? Its all dry around the cover else, damn iam fed up with this leak......All bolts are tighten with 10nm.
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Is there any chance the oil could be seeping down the thread of the bolt?. Just a thought.
Bill |
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Can't remember off the top of my head if the hole is blind or not?...hasn't got too long a bolt in and its bottoming or running out of thread and shoulder bottoming out....good luck..
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If it were me, I would thoroughly degrease the area & allow to dry.
Then start engine & adjust idle to approx 3000 rpm. With the bike parked watch closely until you see the oil start to appear & that is your source. Bob |
Do you set the torque when cover is set on engine or do you wait with setting the torque till its dry? I feel sick just giving it the thought about doing it again
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Set the torgue when cover is set on engine.
Before applying sealant you must remove all traces of oil with something like Brake cleaner or Carb cleaner. Have you tried to find the leak standing at idle or 3000 rpm? |
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