Rocker box seal
 

I have been riding my xt600 since my Hyperpak CDI has arrived. nary a leak on the top side. I did discover the seal below the kickstart where the compression release cable attaches is leaking quite a bit. I also noticed the stator side gasket is leaking. I've already replaced the Clutch over gasket but will have to pull it again to replace the compression release shaft seal. I am hoping this will dry up all the oil leaks and I can reinstall the skid plate.

I has been 12 years since I rode this bike and I must say, I am thrilled at how it runs. It starts easy with the new CDI and pulls like a tractor.

As soon as the Zeeltronic PCDI-XT arrives, I will swap the CDI out and start testing it. Can't wait.....:scooter::scooter::D

I believe you can replace that seal without having to open the engine as the compression release cable seal is fitted from the outside...

But wait for someone to say something cause I don't recall it very well...they might know better than me!

Well, that would be a plus. I'll see if anyone can advise, still waiting for seal to arrive.

Ya, you take the little cover below the kicker shaft off and the cable is attached to the shaft via a flat lever. Take the nut, washer and spring off then pry the seal out. May need a small sheet metal screw to thread into the side of the seal and pry out on the screw, Then grease up and carefully seat the new one in. Reattaching the cable ,lever , and spring all at once with only 2 hands can be a pain.

That worked OK then; lack of evidence of leaking oil is positive information in the overall scheme of things. :thumbup1:

Or you could just take the decompression cables off altogether! I can kick my XT without the decompression cables with a good powerkick...

You seriously can Bacardi? (Not trying to be argumentative). I have tried that and have never gotten it past the compression stroke, even going slow to find tdc, I can stand on the lever just trying to get it past, eventually it'll go, but then letting the lever back up, I gave it a good hard kick, it'll go till the next compression(usually 3/4 stroke of the kicker) then stop dead and, the last time I did it, tipped the bike right over because all my weight was on the right side pushing down and the dead stop ,lost balance. Will never try that again. Even my Honda does that if I forget to pull the little relief lever.

Yes I can :) well, not right now because one of the issues I've come across is the bolt that tightens the kickstart to the shaft is laying in some road somewhere lol it came undone and fell off..

I have a manual choke on mine because I fitted the raptor 660 carbs..
First, you have to leave the ignition key OFF!
Put the bike on the kickstand AND
Second you have to press the kickstart lever until you find TDC, let the kickstart come all the way up and gently put some pressure on it so it'll go past TDC just a tiny bit (you will feel the stroke moving) and let it come back up all the way!
Third, turn on the ignition key, (turn OFF all the lights if you can) pull the choke out, (I usually give it two/three full throttle twists and let go off the throttle)
Forth put your foot on the kickstart to remove the slack and give it a good LONG hard kick as if you were trying to make a hole on the floor with your foot and she'll start right up first try cold or not! (you can't "stop" the kick, it has to "hit the bottom" and stop).

You also have to have the idle RPM set right or you won't be able to start the bike with what I just described! and you do need a battery on these XT's with TCI!


Vando ;)

Ya that start procedure is how I do it now only I need to kick it 3 to 5 times with full choke and ignition off, not hard fast kicks but steady somewhat fast kicks. Then I get it back to just after tdc, turn ignition on, Then the hard "foot to :chinese:" kick. If I do not do this it WILL backfire :gun_bandana:, it WILL mess up my ankle even worse than it already has :wheelchair:, and it WILL brake the case even more than it already is :nuke:. This is why I am trying to get an electric start bottom end for the motor(just won a bid on the crank, side cover, one-way gear/bearing, and cases) and why I HATE those :9898: stock carbs. And yes I have done everything possible to get it to start better, it isn't possible with those carbs :surrender:. I have the Raptor carbs all ready but it's a winter project along with the electric start conversion, finally.:funmeteryes:
Anyways, just to get mine to slowly push past tdc, I need to stand on or at least push real hard for a period of time till it finally gives in and goes. I guess that shows that it still has great compression and doesn't leak it. Too bad it runs like :9898: from those carbs, can't lean it out any more with parts available. The mixture screw is turned in tight plus the left intake boot nozzle is unplugged, still running rich. 2nd cdi, same :9898:.

:oops2: :offtopic: doh :surrender:

I've had to start mine in the past without the decompression release when the cable breaks, and it does often. I am looking at getting a custom cable made of heavier material so it will last. My compression is 170 lbs and at the top of the range according to the manual. It is very hard to kick over and even get it past the TDC plus very hard on my knees. With the compression release it usually starts on 1st kick maybe 2nd if cold.

Very curious you are running rich with the stock carbs. I have just finished rebuilding 2 sets of stock carbs. Nothing very tricky, just verify ALL passages are clear. I use a carb cleaner in a pressure can with a straw and blow liquid thru every passage. Sounds like you may have an air passage blocked if you are running rich.

The hardest thing to set correctly is the float level. Using the bowl drain and a clear tube along side the float bowl is the "only" way to verify it is right. Not bragging, but mine starts and runs perfectly after a carb rebuild and a new CDI.

Everything is clean and float level is correct. I know my way around a carb, been doing it for a while. I've even owned a Raptor 660 and modded it quite a bit, tuned it with both carbs, never had an issue. The whole issue is that I can't get the correct sized jets needed and the needles are non adjustable.

I understand, that can be a problem.... What year is your bike?

You can raise the needle (lean it out) with small shims.

As for jets, I've soldered the hole in a jet before, and drilled it out with a smaller drill = custom leaner jet :innocent:

Jens boy.. you're going the wrong way... it's the other way around! removing shims(dropping the needle) is leaning! adding shims will lift the needles and allow more fuel to pass thru the main jet!

Brainfart! Sorry.

Well, cut a groove in the needle instead, and use a clip to retain it.