about to change sprockets and chain
 

The sprocket and chain set from wemoto arrived yesterday and im about to go do it now. Im gona look in the workshop manual but I have some questions.

Do I have to remove the rear wheel completely to change the rear sprocket?

I dont have a tool for torque measuring when tightening the bolts up, is that extremely important or can I just tighten it up normally? I mean is it worth it to wait for a torqe wrench..i wont be able to get one for a long time probably..

Just done mine..
 

The rear axle must come out to allow the sprocket off but make sure you undo the front sprocket nut before you remove the chain (you may need the back brake as well as the gearbox resistance). Also check which way round the front sprocket goes on - it may not be that obvious.

I don't use a torque wrench but do be careful not to break anything.

What bike is it you have Bergspre?

Getting the front sprocket nut undone can be a real bitch if it has a single large retaining nut (note also if it does, there will be a lock washer with a flange you need to fold down before you can turn the nut) - so as edteamslr suggests, it's worth keeping the old chain on while you crack that nut - and you might well find someone sitting on the bike and pressing the rear brake pedal is essential!

As for torquing up the rear wheel axle - while the workshop manual probably has some astronomic value in, a good trick is to only do it up as tight as the spanner you have in your travel toolkit, and your own strength allows* - after all, it's no good if you've torqued the bastard right up in the workshop, only to find you have a six-inch long spanner to undo it in the event of a puncture?

*obviously if you are a weedy weakling, then it's worth getting someone to do it up properly, but I trust you can nip it up nice and tight by hand x

xxx

xt 600 E 2001 model

I tried to get the front sprocket off but it didnt work. I tried to use alot of force but i couldnt use enough because the socket glide off the bolt and hurts the bolt when i use much force.. :/ I figured your supposed to turn it counter clockwise to unscrew?

Anyway i gave up on changing the sprockets since the last mechanic that looked at it while changing the front tyre said that i had to change the chain..but if i did it before driving too long i could do it without changin sprockets...its just that it feels better to change everything at once.

So i decided to change only the chain but then the next problem arrived, there seems to be no chain lock on the chain :(

I though, ok il just cut the old chain and put in the new chain then.. but the new chain didnt come with a lock..so i have to wait now until i get a chain lock for that chain.. its a DID chain and it came only with a RJ? type lock that you need some kind of special tool to fit...

Sounds like you are having the usual nightmare! - what seems like a simple job is usually the one that causes the most trouble!

Yes, the sprocket nut turns counterclockwise to undo, but typically they are torqued up VERY tight - using a long handle socket bar (ie 600mm or more) can help, plus holding the whole bike on the rear brake as edteamslr and I suggested - do you have someone who can sit on the bike and hold the rear brake down while you do it?

The other option is to use a pneumatic impact driver like they have in a commercial workshop/garage - that ought to free it off...

As for the chain - a lot of o-ring chains only come with a rivet link (rather than the clip link you refer to) these days - and a lot of mechanics will recommend you only use a rivet link on a larger capacity machine - especially a single that has a lot of torque.

I've found you can use a split link with no problems (you can buy/order them from any bike shop - just make sure you say which chain it is for, as some have different diameter pins - I believe DID are all the same though) - although a good trick is once you have fitted the link, cover the clip and outer plate in superglue or epoxy - then that won't be coming apart any time soon!

Good luck!

J xx

ps. long term it might be worth investing in a chain tool that can remove pins and press/rivet links too - you never know when you (or someone else) might need it. I recommend the Motion Pro tool - not cheap, but far better than the cheap ones you find on the internet etc.

if your old sprockets are worn they will wear out the new chain quicker too

We have a electrical tool for removing the bolts in car wheels, its like a hammer..it hammers on the bolt so it loosens easier, is that what yo mean i cold use ? if it fits..

Il maybe get a tool for the chain, im very interested in being able to maintain my bike myself + do it right with the good tools :D

Just done my c+s - it was some balancing act standing on the rear brake/squeezing the front and using my left foot (the only one left :rofl:!) to press most of my 95kg onto the front sprocket via a long tommy (extension) bar. After several attempts i thought it wasn't going to release - wondering where i could use an airgun - when it gave a little... woohoo! It's not easy, but it's do-able with a bit of effort (and a lot of sweating in my case:stormy:). Good luck.

If you use a clip type joining link, make sure you fit the clip with the open end facing opposite the chains normal direction of travel. Eliminates the risk of it getting flicked off. :thumbup1:
Bob

bob a bit of lock wire works wonders on split links too, it stops the clip from popping off.

If its a DID chain then you must use a DID clip link. Better to use the rivet type they usually supply with chain. You only need a centre punch and a dumbbell or something else heavy to hold behind. dont squeese the side plate on too far as it stops lubricant getting in there an you will end up with a stiff link.:nono:

Does the motion pro chain tool work on x-ring chains?
The chain from the wemoto set was a DID 520 vx x-ring.

Also, I found that motion pro has some cheaper tools too, will they work? The JUMBO tools is 139$ then theres a one for 79$ called "chain breaker and riveting tool". Look here Buy Now: Motion Pro Chain Tools Breaker Tool Kit | Pashnit Moto


Anyone know what socket is the 100% correct one for the nut on the front sprocket? I used a 30mm socket, but when I applied power it seemed to twist off the nut,thats why i didnt get it off i didnt want to make it round.

I think ill try to get another tool with longer bar and with the correct socket,maybe the one i have is too old and worn out.

Hi Burgspre -

I had a look at that link - the version I have is the 'chain breaker and riveting tool', which is very strong and nicely made. You don't have to buy it in the box with all the parts (I think they give you different sized pins etc for breaking cam chains too), you can buy the individual parts - but you may as well get the whole set, and just take what you need with you on your travels?

I've not tried the T6 'lightweight' version, but presume it does much the same job, just is a touch smaller and lighter... however, I think the strength of the original version is worth a few extra grammes - it packs down very small in your tool kit.

Sorry I can't help with the sprocket nut size, I have a different bike to you and not sure the sprocket nut is the same as yours?

xxx

Are you using Metric size tools or Imperial size ones?

Some Imperial look very similar to the Metric but actually aren't..


Vando :innocent:

I use metric size, used a 30mm socket but it felt just a tad little too big and the next step down I had was 27mm and that was too small. Either its a 29mm that should be used or the 30mm socket I have is worn out.