about to change sprockets and chain
 

The sprocket and chain set from wemoto arrived yesterday and im about to go do it now. Im gona look in the workshop manual but I have some questions.

Do I have to remove the rear wheel completely to change the rear sprocket?

I dont have a tool for torque measuring when tightening the bolts up, is that extremely important or can I just tighten it up normally? I mean is it worth it to wait for a torqe wrench..i wont be able to get one for a long time probably..

Just done mine..
 

The rear axle must come out to allow the sprocket off but make sure you undo the front sprocket nut before you remove the chain (you may need the back brake as well as the gearbox resistance). Also check which way round the front sprocket goes on - it may not be that obvious.

I don't use a torque wrench but do be careful not to break anything.

What bike is it you have Bergspre?

Getting the front sprocket nut undone can be a real bitch if it has a single large retaining nut (note also if it does, there will be a lock washer with a flange you need to fold down before you can turn the nut) - so as edteamslr suggests, it's worth keeping the old chain on while you crack that nut - and you might well find someone sitting on the bike and pressing the rear brake pedal is essential!

As for torquing up the rear wheel axle - while the workshop manual probably has some astronomic value in, a good trick is to only do it up as tight as the spanner you have in your travel toolkit, and your own strength allows* - after all, it's no good if you've torqued the bastard right up in the workshop, only to find you have a six-inch long spanner to undo it in the event of a puncture?

*obviously if you are a weedy weakling, then it's worth getting someone to do it up properly, but I trust you can nip it up nice and tight by hand x

xxx

xt 600 E 2001 model

I tried to get the front sprocket off but it didnt work. I tried to use alot of force but i couldnt use enough because the socket glide off the bolt and hurts the bolt when i use much force.. :/ I figured your supposed to turn it counter clockwise to unscrew?

Anyway i gave up on changing the sprockets since the last mechanic that looked at it while changing the front tyre said that i had to change the chain..but if i did it before driving too long i could do it without changin sprockets...its just that it feels better to change everything at once.

So i decided to change only the chain but then the next problem arrived, there seems to be no chain lock on the chain :(

I though, ok il just cut the old chain and put in the new chain then.. but the new chain didnt come with a lock..so i have to wait now until i get a chain lock for that chain.. its a DID chain and it came only with a RJ? type lock that you need some kind of special tool to fit...

Sounds like you are having the usual nightmare! - what seems like a simple job is usually the one that causes the most trouble!

Yes, the sprocket nut turns counterclockwise to undo, but typically they are torqued up VERY tight - using a long handle socket bar (ie 600mm or more) can help, plus holding the whole bike on the rear brake as edteamslr and I suggested - do you have someone who can sit on the bike and hold the rear brake down while you do it?

The other option is to use a pneumatic impact driver like they have in a commercial workshop/garage - that ought to free it off...

As for the chain - a lot of o-ring chains only come with a rivet link (rather than the clip link you refer to) these days - and a lot of mechanics will recommend you only use a rivet link on a larger capacity machine - especially a single that has a lot of torque.

I've found you can use a split link with no problems (you can buy/order them from any bike shop - just make sure you say which chain it is for, as some have different diameter pins - I believe DID are all the same though) - although a good trick is once you have fitted the link, cover the clip and outer plate in superglue or epoxy - then that won't be coming apart any time soon!

Good luck!

J xx

ps. long term it might be worth investing in a chain tool that can remove pins and press/rivet links too - you never know when you (or someone else) might need it. I recommend the Motion Pro tool - not cheap, but far better than the cheap ones you find on the internet etc.

if your old sprockets are worn they will wear out the new chain quicker too

We have a electrical tool for removing the bolts in car wheels, its like a hammer..it hammers on the bolt so it loosens easier, is that what yo mean i cold use ? if it fits..

Il maybe get a tool for the chain, im very interested in being able to maintain my bike myself + do it right with the good tools :D

Just done my c+s - it was some balancing act standing on the rear brake/squeezing the front and using my left foot (the only one left :rofl:!) to press most of my 95kg onto the front sprocket via a long tommy (extension) bar. After several attempts i thought it wasn't going to release - wondering where i could use an airgun - when it gave a little... woohoo! It's not easy, but it's do-able with a bit of effort (and a lot of sweating in my case:stormy:). Good luck.

If you use a clip type joining link, make sure you fit the clip with the open end facing opposite the chains normal direction of travel. Eliminates the risk of it getting flicked off. :thumbup1:
Bob

bob a bit of lock wire works wonders on split links too, it stops the clip from popping off.

If its a DID chain then you must use a DID clip link. Better to use the rivet type they usually supply with chain. You only need a centre punch and a dumbbell or something else heavy to hold behind. dont squeese the side plate on too far as it stops lubricant getting in there an you will end up with a stiff link.:nono:

Does the motion pro chain tool work on x-ring chains?
The chain from the wemoto set was a DID 520 vx x-ring.

Also, I found that motion pro has some cheaper tools too, will they work? The JUMBO tools is 139$ then theres a one for 79$ called "chain breaker and riveting tool". Look here Buy Now: Motion Pro Chain Tools Breaker Tool Kit | Pashnit Moto


Anyone know what socket is the 100% correct one for the nut on the front sprocket? I used a 30mm socket, but when I applied power it seemed to twist off the nut,thats why i didnt get it off i didnt want to make it round.

I think ill try to get another tool with longer bar and with the correct socket,maybe the one i have is too old and worn out.

Hi Burgspre -

I had a look at that link - the version I have is the 'chain breaker and riveting tool', which is very strong and nicely made. You don't have to buy it in the box with all the parts (I think they give you different sized pins etc for breaking cam chains too), you can buy the individual parts - but you may as well get the whole set, and just take what you need with you on your travels?

I've not tried the T6 'lightweight' version, but presume it does much the same job, just is a touch smaller and lighter... however, I think the strength of the original version is worth a few extra grammes - it packs down very small in your tool kit.

Sorry I can't help with the sprocket nut size, I have a different bike to you and not sure the sprocket nut is the same as yours?

xxx

Are you using Metric size tools or Imperial size ones?

Some Imperial look very similar to the Metric but actually aren't..


Vando :innocent:

I use metric size, used a 30mm socket but it felt just a tad little too big and the next step down I had was 27mm and that was too small. Either its a 29mm that should be used or the 30mm socket I have is worn out.

uh, 29 rings a bell for me, but im not certain.

I have a new sprocket nut and have just checked it is a 30mm socket.
I usually change the nut and washer when I replace the front sprocket the nut has a very fine thread and is only avaible from Yamaha about £6 I think.

Just checked the socket - 30mm.

Thank you, so its 30mm then :)

Have you guys had a problem that the socket is hard to hold in place on the nut when you try to turn it with much force? Is that normal or do you think i need to get a new socket?

It is normal for the socket to try & slip off because the nut is quite shallow.
Best to get someone else to hold the rear brake on so you can support the socket while you undo the nut.
Bob

i agree its a two man job to undo a tight sprocket nut , if you try to do it your self your going to end up in a painfull heap on the floor. these nuts can be very/very tight . the worst one i have known was on a 1200 bandit we had to put a 3 foot scaffalding pole on a strong arm, and stand on that , the reason was the previese owner had put some v/ strong thread lock on . good luck and be carefull. zigzag:thumbup1:

To save any unnecessary struggling ( like ive done in the past and was unsuccesful) I take the right size socket to the farm next door or the garage up the road and ask them to wazz it off with their Air gun, its 2 seconds of a job and no skin off their nose, better than timber through your back wheel over swing arm trying to lock it and back brake stuff trying to crack it with a socket, bar and hammer.

nice tip
I just talked to my dad and he has a electrical "gun" that hammers, its for the wheel bolts on cars really but I think i can fit a 30mm socket on it.

Im gona go and get a single 30mm black "powersocket" today at the store. And since its gona be a 3.5 hours drive il pick up a torque wrench and some other sockets to improve my toolset at the same time.

oh boy...this awaits me soon too :funmeterno:

and if the damn sprocket is fused to the splines try PB Blaster and a gear puller....

Can be a pain in the arse. I also busted a stud for the rear sprocket upon torqing.

Icehole, I would not worry too much. I removed the front sprocket a few weeks back to clean out some junk that was stuck behind it. It was easy, the engine compression was enough for me to loosen the nut. So you may have a problem ahead.. but you may not.

wrong sprocket
 

The front sprocket nut went off easy today, all went good, i changed the rear sprocket and all, but then i was going to put on the new front sprocket and it doesnt fit!

I ordered a set on wemoto so i dont understand why the front sprocket is different. The old sprocket is wider then the new one. The new front sprocket was the same diameter and 15 tooth all seemed good but its thinner..the new front sprocket goes too far in on the axle :(

Bummer...

I have a 15T front sprocket I got from WEMOTO as well, but have not yet tried to install it.

How does it not fit? Will it bind on the retaining plate?

It fits but it doesnt "work". You can put the sprocket on, everything looks correctly except that this sprocket isnt "wide" enough so that it will go too far in on the axle.

Look at this picture and see what i mean, where it says 9.5,thats the thing i mean, its less then the original and so it goes too far in on the axle, using it would be impossible.

Im starting to think maybe wemoto put in a wrong front sprocket for me by accident? Can you check what type your front sprocket from wemoto is? The one that came in my set was a JTF 1577.15



http://www.jtsprockets.com/fileadmin...ge/jtf1577.jpg

Turn it the other way around and fit it in!? :rofl:

Vando :innocent:

That wont work, you mean the flat side in? itll crash right into the wall in there..

that 9.5 "space" works as a spacer dont it? and the space will then be too short, the sprocket wont be in line with the chain.

Heres an illustration..
http://img329.imageshack.us/img329/1025/sprocket.jpg

If your front sprocket is 15.6mm wide you need the sprocket #577(15.6 mm wide) which is listed for the 97-98 model, not #1577(9.5 mm wide).
I also have a 2001 4pt model & had the same problem recently after ordering new sprockets.
Bob

Bergspre, my bike is a 2005 TT600RE. I thought all the later model 600’s had the same front sprocket, but Bobmech has corrected that misunderstanding.

Sure, I will check what Wemoto sent me, but I can’t be sure if our bikes use the same front sprocket. My bike is supposed to have the exact same engine as the 1990 – 1995 XT600E. I will post the sprocket partnumber tomorrow.

I would expect Wemoto to be helpful if they made a mistake. They (Wemoto) messed up my order a little, I ordered two rear sprockets among other stuff, but received only one. I informed them of this and they sent me the missing sprocket right away. They obviously did not suspect me of lying to get a free part, and corrected the mistake without delay.

Here is a pic of my front sprocket. This sprocket sure looks more than 9.5mm wide to me. I am guessing our bikes use the same type of a front sprocket. It will be interesting to see the sprocket Wemoto sent me… I will check it tomorrow.


http://i697.photobucket.com/albums/v...0/sprocket.jpg

I think maybe that illustration pic must be wrong, why is the illustration showing 9.5mm, is that for 1577.9?

My sprocket was a 1577.15

Im going to take pictures tomorrowshowing both the old and the new sprocket.

This is a picture of the old front sprocket showing
the measuring of the depth, it is 15mm.
http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/118...cketxt600e.jpg

Here is a picture of the new front sprocket, a JTF1577.15
It is only 9mm deep though! Strange..
http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/693...t2jt157715.jpg

And another one of the new sprocket..
http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/370...etjt157715.jpg

Hi Bergspre
I have a front sprocket that I got from Dave Lambeth for my TTR600, The part no is JTF577.15
I have a XT600 3AJ engine that also has a JTF577.15 front sprocket.
Your part no is slightly differnt
I also rember some one put a XT600e engine in a TTR and had a problem with front sprocket lineing up I think the out put shaft maybe a differnt length on some XTs to TTRs but only on certian years.
good luck

Bergspre, the sprocket Wemoto sent me is also a JTF1577.15, the same as you have. And it is the wrong one for my TT600RE, I need the wider one.

Thank you for investigating :)
Now we know, I used that inquiry option on the order on wemoto and wrote to them about it, i hope they know which one will fit.

I browsed jt sprockets catalogue online on all the yamaha xt600 listings. Found theres alot of different bikes listed but theres actually a sprocket called JTF 577.15 and its 15.6mm wide, i think this is the one needed. I hope wemoto just picked the wrong sprocket, i can see that mixups can happen.. 577.15 and 1577.15

btw. the 577.15 is listed for xt600 E,D 1987 :o
JT Sprockets: Catalogue

Bergspre, you need a #577 sprocket with the appropriate number of teeth(14, 15, or 16).
I would say the catalogue listing is incorrect, not unusual for pattern/aftermarket parts.
Bobhttp://shop.wemoto.com/images/logo100.jpghttp://shop.wemoto.com/images/buttons/home.jpghttp://shop.wemoto.com/images/buttons/shop.jpghttp://shop.wemoto.com/images/buttons/contact.jpghttp://shop.wemoto.com/images/buttons/terms.jpg

Sry bobmech I didnt notice your post yesterday, you had the solution already about the 577 not 1577 :)

I think i was too stressed yesterday :p

I have found the 577 sprocket in a norwegian webshop so if I dont find a nearby store tomorrow where i can pick it up ill order it from the web. Vacation + motorbike trouble = true :p

Found a 577 14tooth at a local store,hope its not a big diff from the 15tooth, i wasnt able to follow the speed limit in 5th gear anyway so i guess its good.. maybe have to remove a link from the chain maybe?

my new sprocket was thinner as well
 

With my new front sprocket I ordered( which is thinner than the original) came a splined spacer to make up for the lack of width.

Wouldn't it be stronger if that spacer was actually welded on to the sprocket?

Vando :innocent:

Bergspre, please be kind enough to inform how you like the new 14T sprocket when you have tried it. If the chain rubs heavily on the swing-arm protectors exc…



I am not a fan of the standard gearing, for me it is too high even on-road (4th to low 5th to high normal cruising speed). Lower gearing would obviously be a lot better off-road.


A 4-6T bigger rear sprocket will not fit with the standard chain slide in place. I have adapted the rear wheel from my KTM to fit my TT600RE and had to get a smaller rear spocket (48T) before it would fit.

the fact it has a spacer and not a solid build up theroreticaly makes no differance. The sprocket is held tight to the spacer and shaft axialy along the drive shaft and in the correct radial loading position in line with the rear sprocket.

there a 2 main reasons the sprockets are tight, firstly is to ensure it doesn't fall off, and secondly to prevent any non radial forces causing damage to the splines (A wobbly sprocket will cause premature wear to all conecting parts, including internals.) this then ensures that most of the torque is directly transfered to the rear sprocket.

If this problem is stopping you from traveling, i don't see a problem with getting a local machine shop to knock up a space to sit behind the sprocket, it doesnt need to be splined as basicaly its only for positioning purposes.

feel free to pull me apart on this, but i've overcome similar problems to this the same way on a lot larger machines (500MW steam turbines)

Paul

It worked on my 3hp moped 8 years ago :D

Ill report on the 14teeth soon.
I now have cleaned the area around the front sprocket,rear frame, the rubber thing that the chain glides on and the 2 chain rollers. (they were all very dirty by some kind of living oil-entity,it was tough to get clean :p )

Now ive put the front sprocket on and the nut loosely, now the only thing remaining almost is the chain.. Well i have the chain and the rivet link and the jumbo tool, but wheres the instructions for the jumbo tool that im sure i had outside 2 days ago hmm :p

I have the general idea of how to use the jumbo riveting but im not sure how its supposed to look in the end, its a hollow type link i think, is the idea that these get pushed outward by the jumbo tools plate and then the chain plate cant get loose? Anyone have the instructions for the jumbo tool in pdf?

Found the instructions but I think its very confusing. I dont have the instruction for the chain, how many millimeters to put the plate in on the end of the link etc.. then how do i know if ive pressed the pins out enough?

the side plate should be pressed on the same as the other links and as long as the pins are spread out wider than the holes in the plate it aint going anywhere :thumbup1:

maybe ? Just glad bikebandit sent it or I would've been very confused. So far no issues.

It would be stronger because it would deliver the power on a bigger surface area thus reducing the amount of torque applied on the total area of the sprocket/axle

Sprocket and chain project is now finished with good results :smartass:

No more humping from the bad chain and instead a much more silent sound, sounds sweet as a humming bird flying along.. :)

Going for a bit longer ride now to test :) Ill report on the cruise speed/feeling later when ive tested.

Not sure how to describe this but, feels like less acceleration capacity for 0-80 but reacts faster and better for slow riding in the dirt or woods.

I would have used the 15teeth if I had one,but only because I like to cruise. Noticed the difference on 5th gear when cruising at 80 KM/H and at 90 where I like to stay often the rpm was 4500 i think which is too high. With the old 15T I remember just under 4000rpm was 90KM, and now 3900rpm is 80.

So my verdict is, 14t is good but i dont like the rpm when cruising at 90-100, I like to use the torque on low rpm that this engine has :mchappy:

Btw got an email from wemoto they admitted they sent the wrong type - 1577 instead of 577, they ordered it from theyr dealer and are sending me the 15Twhen they get it with a return slip for the other one so i can send it back.

I started to like the 14T now :) Cant go faster then 80 anyway.

And yesterday I received the free replacement 15T from wemoto :thumbup1: (JT 577.15 (doesn't need a spacer) )

Ive startet with 15-45 (stock)

Then I got 14-45, and next 14-47 which was good offroad, but kinda sucked on the highway.

Went back with 14-45 but still wanted to lover the rpms a tad, and finished with 15-47.

The second gear is a little high when riding singletrack, but then i have the option to put in the 14t sprocket. Dont know if I'll use it tho'.

I dont ride it over 100km/t which is around 4300 rpm. I try to take cake of the baby, with no sustained high rpm driving.

I've used Gearing Commander: Motorcycle Gearing Ratio Sprocket RPM Speed Chain Calculator which is a great site. I've added the 1990 xt 600 in there, and the gearing fits from 1990 and forward, dont know if it wits before that.

If you've got a workmanual where the ration on each gear is mentioned, you also can add a bike in there.

Great little tool.

Just changed the chain and sprox on the XT600E. Bloody hell, what a difference! The strange shushing sound (about one-third wheel speed, so chain-related) has gone, gear changing is a delight, and it rides much more smoothly.

I expected to find a chain full of tight spots (although I couldn't find any when investigating the noise) but the chain was fine. Stretched beyond the service limit, but still in good nick and flexible. Rear sprocket was almost unworn. But the front sprocket - all the teeth badly hooked and in a shocking state.

Just for the record, I stuck with standard 15/45 gearing, as I am happy with that. The front sprocket nut took a 600mm breaker bar and a grandchild standing on the brake pedal, but was otherwise OK to get off. The front sprocket itself came off without any drama. The chain has a spring link, which I have not had on a bike since my Jawa days of the 70s, but I assume is OK. At least it meant I could do the job without taking off the swinging arm as well.

I use the clip links for the chain on both my bikes

Thanks, Jens. I have had a few good runs, including some high speed (for the XT, anyway) and all seems well. I think I will stick with the spring link, as it means I can take the chain off to clean it in the winter.