yep, remember some earlier threads from here as well. and even if fabrication wouldn't be needed, don't think that the lack of the slide carb would be enjoyable.
since my cv part is good, there might be bit more chances to find some used set with healthy slide part and wear/damages elsewhere.
again betting on Greece; generally used to find decent amount of options there with lower prices compared to items listed online. although, quality of communication and level of trust varies.

plenty of single cyl bikes use "only CV" no slide, work just fine, same for the raptor itself that utilizes our engines (more or less)

Good luck finding a decent slide carburetor.... if you dont, then you have this option

https://www.ebay.it/itm/266347835292...QwwwvDYsAAAAAA

well, thanks for these infos.
yes, it's clear that cv type is pretty "default" setup.
despite of some intricate character of that "ydis", still thinking that it's very nice solution - slide until midrange, where throttle feel and feedback seems more enjoyable and maybe important as well, and cv for high revs for more smoothness.
at least that's how i get it.
so let's see whether i'll be able to find some decent replacement.
othervise, that double cv seems also good option. i see it needs both intake manifolds with similar output diameter (the bigger one). furthermore, what about stock airbox? that custom pale green parts are for this or for some other reason?

its not my bike, its form a thread in thumper talk


https://www.thumpertalk.com/forums/t...-carb-upgrade/


some tips on jetting too


dont know the details, the guy obviously preferred to put two "sock" foam filters instead of modifying the airbox. like i said, there is fabrication involved also with the thorttle cable



you might like the slide, but there are also disadvantages to it, and if you dont find a REALLY good one, its surly not going to deliver that beautiful feel and feedback that you mention.


unless you can hold that used carb in your hand and test the slide play, you are in danger of ordering used parts that are no better than yours...


my 2 cents

call it "2 cents" but it's indeed good advices & infos (including link). thanks for all of these.
as for testing, chances are that a friend residing in Greece might be able to help. that could be a best scenario. knowing that srx600 also runs the same carbs (at least body) maybe will increase the chances. and of course, it's nice to know that there's reliable plan b as well.

there was this super friendly guy in greece from the forum, maybe try to pm him


https://www.horizonsunlimited.com/hu...bers/nickargas

yes, now i remember him, thanks for this idea.
and pm is sent, let's see...

meanwhile...
 

delayed solution (as usual) made stronger recoil..
so, searching for replacement carbs took a while.
besides the varying quality of throttle response, riding was enjoyable until the recent sudden breakdown.
worn slide piston inside the left carb got stuck and misaligned. or in opposite order. before realizing what it was about, most likely by twisting throttle made it even worse - two screws inside the slide went off, quickly swallowed by engine.. at least engine was running minimal time after this.
considering results, maybe still lucky.
new piston shows almost no traces.
seemingly cylinder wall needs honing (will be followed by proper break-in oil at least this time..).
had valves and seats checked and re-faced. no issues there.
but having this wounds in combustion chamber:
https://i.ibb.co/Tcd6K70/scr.png

according to this damage, what could be the effect on combustion? do they need to be filled?

nothing to do there, dont even touch them


but seriously, the only two screws on the slide are the ones holding the needle retainer/lifting plate, and they are ON TOP of the slide, engine cant such them in.... unless wrongly mounted.



sounds like some serious miss-assembly, so go stand in the corner

well, maybe i indeed deserve to stand in the corner, but for some other reason; like taking the ways of assembly of stuff as normal, repeating it afterwards and not always double-checking with manual..
anyways, have already ordered raptor's carbs along with some rubbers and jets. hoping to adapt it to existed airbox. let's see if it will be manageable.
ok, cv only but at least it will be better than hopelessly damaged carbs.
btw, by some nice coincidence, recently linked infos in the neighbouring thread (Yamaha XT 600 personalization) seem to be very helpful for me as well.

i think carbs will be easy to mount if you order also the raptor manifold and rubbers


most of the pain i expect to be at the airbox / filter side


i just recently mounted different carbs to another bike (not yamaha) these uni filters are super easy to fit, come in all sorts of sizes and even if they hit something, no issue, they are foam :)



i think thats the type used in the pictures i posted.


in my applcation i used the black UP-4200 ones


just measure you aproximate diameter the the carb enrtry ans see what is longest you can fit in there


https://unifilter.com/online-catalog...n-air-filters/

turboguzzi, thanks for good thoughts and ideas.
yes, i've ordered some raptor's rubbers as well, but with a plan (so far) to keep the original airbox etc. let's see.
but obviously, i'm just at the beginning of lots of attempts, headscratches, trial-and-error and so on.

meanwhile, honed (hopefully) the cylinder.
generally, seemingly due to the lack of mounting equipment, local shops always refuse to bore or hone single cylinders here.
so, tried to do it by myself, with a sandpaper and oil.
https://i.ibb.co/JdKkWmv/hon.jpg
seems more or less like a hone. at least not glazed. hopefully, piston and rings will agree to this as well.

also, now looking for a break-in oil. most likely i'll have no big choice here - maybe will end up buying one made for car engines. will have better idea from the next week.

having this question - before assembly, i'll cover cylinder walls, rings etc. with a break-in oil. old oil will be drained, but what about that ~0.5L remaining in the engine? could it affect break-in process (considering that maybe viscosity will be different as well)?

flex hones from ali express cost very little...



fill with mineral oil, do a short, strong break in, then change to whatever full synth or semi you use normally.


dont baby it driving at 50 when breaking in,


load it properly in short bursts, not constant speed. all breaking is for is making the rings seal, you have to load them with pressure. if you go slowly, the new rings will not adapt to the bore.

yes, flex hone was also an option, but besides the shipping time, finally decided that being completely inexperienced in this, achieving needed pattern (more or less..) would be easier with sandpaper and slow progress..

simple mineral oil indeed seems a proper alternative of dedicated motorcycle break-in oil, which anyway seems hard (if not impossible) to find locally. thanks a lot for this hint, maybe i'll get mineral oil for bike engine even with matching viscosities.

and indeed looking forward to do that well loaded break-in when time (and parts...) come.

Sad to hear you are stuck again and summer almost gone... Honing with sandpaper? If you doing this again atleast buy honing brush!

https://www.staypro.no/maskiner-verk...oaAjiTEALw_wcB