|
Quote:
anyways, i'm having following results from today - micrometers in experienced hands stated that i'm having indeed fresh +0.5 piston together with also freshly re-bored and honed cylinder to the size of 96mm... so yes, remaining 0.5mm was a clearance. and i was recommended to get appropriate, i.e. 96mm piston kit. later today also double-checked this results by myself, mainly because to observe how that feeler gauge method works. well, it works pretty well, as expected. hopefully one guy in greece will be ok to get his piston back and refund. luckily, there's plenty of choice of new 96mm kits online. |
try contacting prox they shgould have all oversizes, decent quality
|
thanks, yes, they indeed have a whole spectrum.
also trying to find a matching head gasket. meanwhile, case halves are back together. parts search and shipment will cause further delay, hopefully, shorter this time. |
Head gaskets are always a bit bigger than the stock bore, so don't loose sleep over that.
|
well, measuring my existing spares against this 96mm cylinder also shows that.
no clear/particular search results about oversized gaskets was another factor. but somehow was still uncertain, as never had an experience with rebored cylinders and opinions across the internet were not in the clear consensus. also, as the slightly curved profile of the gasket seemingly will expand inside towards the cylinder at some extent, that also created some suspects. anyways, reading the stuff here is more solid argument, thus i'd happily stick with my existed spare gasket. so thanks, some amount of sleep, time and money had been saved )) |
if you look into any online oem parts catalog, youll see that yamaha offered up to +1.0, but no oversize gasket. just to remind you, we are talking 0.5mm per side...
things get complicated only when you go for a big bore lit thats several mm's bigger |
yep, that also makes sense.
|
hi there.
progressing with the engine assembly, and having one question about oil delivery. engine is assembled but not yet in the frame. decided to check the oil delivery before this step. so, all hoses are connected to the engine, and with some oil inside, spun the crank for few seconds. as a result, i'm receiving some oil to the pipe going up to the frame - https://i.imgvibe.com/2024/05/03/pipe.jpg but nothing at the filter cavity here - https://i.imgvibe.com/2024/05/03/fil.jpg ok, i understand that there're not proper pressures in the system as it's not a closed circuit as the engine is not connected to the frame and so on, but even in this case, could that tiny spring behind the ball valve blocking the main flow? |
p.s.
well, in order to clarify oiling diagram better, browsing random images of the open crankcase in the web somehow helped. seems the engine must be connected to the oil tank in the frame to have some oil delivered into the filter cavity. let's see. |
Quote:
|
main repairs in the engine were replaced crank&rod, cylinder (96mm) and piston.
meanwhile, engine is back in the frame and oil is filled up. i was turning it with starter motor, connected to 12v. gave it two 5-second long try, but still no oil in the filter cavity. guess some oil must be in the bottom and pump is working (as oil goes up to the frame). what about the normal speed of the starter motor - isn't it fast enough? maybe i'm bit anxious on this subject, but for now don't want to start the engine without being certain that crank and cam will be receiving oil.. |
Quote:
|
Quote:
guess, somehow oil pump must be working in two ways more or less simultaneously; from the strainer up in the frame and from the frame through crankcase towards the filter. but how exactly this second link is done so far is bit vague to me. https://i.imgvibe.com/2024/05/06/Untitled-1.jpg as for bearings, haven't retied them so far, except another one (right side) of the crankshaft. |
this day appeared pretty remarkable due to couple reasons.
removed clutch cover etc. and inspected oil pump. and discovered that oil pump also has two parallel circuits... strangely, earlier upper thinner part was staying as one piece and i had no clue about it's existence, overlooking that section. and all the maze of xt's oil delivery now is finally clear. guess was lucky enough to receive all this knowledge in pretty unforgettable ways. and this admonishment from the manual also makes much more sense - but! somehow the manual still goes short about pump, for example, i can't find any indication that there must be two set of rotors to inspect, or applying oil into the passages of another circuit as well (two smaller holes below), which i also involuntarily skipped last time... anyways, bike started pretty nicely on the first try and gave long-lasting smile. bit of the remaining work and long-awaited break-in period is about to start. besides of general "keep it smooth and slow-ish", if there're some bike-specific advices about break-in period (new crank/cylinder/piston), and how long (one tank? 500km? more?) please let me know. |
Quote:
|
| All times are GMT +1. The time now is 01:36. |