Latest from KKH
 

Noticing concerns of the members I called friends in Sost and Passu a few days back and confirmed my information first hand. The road to Pakistan from China is open but challenging. Let me enumerate the challenges,
1. A bridge at Khyber is damaged but motorbikes can cross it because the waterlevels have dropped. It can also be crossed in tractor trollies for a little payment.
2. Atabad lake has to be crossed in a boat.
3. Babusar route should be taken from Chillas as KKH is closed at Dubair.

Then a few suggestions,
1. One TV channell is announcing opening of the KKH. In third world countries official information is unreliable so I dont trust it. The most credible info is word of mouth or the bus stations which ply the route regularly.
2. KKH is doable but not easy. Not very difficult either and certainly worth it.
3. Help is available everywhere for a little payment.
Cheers
Omar

Now it is confirmed that complete KKH is open for light traffic as they have erected a temporary bridge at Dubair. Still the road is in bad shape as it is being upgraded from Khanjerab till Raikot bridge by the Chinese and the portion from Chillas till Battgram is in shambles due to neglect.
Cheers

hi there,
just arrived today in islamabad from china. KKH is totally open even the dubar section after chilas, but we did the most challenging babusar pass route as for mud, sand, landslides exc. we went through by hands through the fallen bridge south of sost (sept. 4th) on a wooden enlarged catwalk, made by local labours; 10,000 rps for 7 bikes. they are starting to build a temporary bridge. then the lake; the shore is few kms south of passu; we rented two boats for 20,000rps, puls 3,000 rps to download the bikes at south shore, north of karimabad. after gilgit a landslide has forced us to get in deal with some local porters to cross the bike by hands through a narrow sharp rocky footpath (1,500 rps sept. 9th). now the road it should to been cleared.

www.lungastrada.it

Kkh 2013
 

We crossed Khunjerab Pass from Pakistan to China 05.05.2013. According to Pakistani customs log book we were the second ones this year.

No need for N.O.C in the KKH, but police will escort you from Thakot to Dasu. The road in this leg is quite rough too. The road from Dasu to Raikot Bridge is pretty good, after the bridge there are long and heavy road works but mostly brand new tarmac.

We paid 800 rupees for two passengers and one bike to cross Attabad Lake. Loading and unloading are still risky businesses...

After Sost we had to pay 800 rupees each to enter the Khunjerab National Park. The fee is possible to pay in USD or Yuan too. There was lots of snow in Khunjerab Pass and the road was icy with fresh snow... But very beautiful.

Pakistani customs and Chinese border guards want to open and check all your luggage, but we rode alone all the way to Tashkurgan, where we met our guide in the customs house. There was a small snowstorm before Tashgurgan and cold snowy mountains between Tashgurgan and Kashgar.

My English is so limited that I´m not going to tell more about grandness and beauty of the sceneries etc. Amazing road that you have to experience yourself!:mchappy:

That sounds awesome Rami
we cant wait....

A forty member group of MAP (Motorcyclists Assoc of Pakistan) is going on the KKH on 29th June and another a week earlier. I myself will be going in early August to visit the adjoining valleys of Deosai, Shamshal and Minapin.

I wish Rami had been to these valleys too. They are out of this world.

Cheers
Omar

Oh, almost forgot... The police at the southern end of Attabad lake wants a paper, where you announce that you are crossing the lake in your own responsibility.

I guess hotels in Karimabad have those papers, we got the information and our copies from Hunza Embassy hotel.

Omie: Unfortunately the time was limited... Chinese permits aren´t flexible:(

I do find it such a shame that so many bikers just blast up the KKH and straight through to China without spending anytime actually exploring NW Pakistan. They really have no idea what they are missing. We spent 6 weeks touring NWFP last year on a Bullet and I would recommend it to anyone !
UB.

Best kept secrert
 

No wonder I consider it the worlds best kept secret. Cant have enough of :)

Hello,

we just come back from South Africa and Namibia.In September we go from Germany to Nepal and we want to visit NW Pakistan.But October and November it is mabye to cold there?What is the best time to go ?

Regards

Mike

Hi Rami,

Where did u cross the Chinese boarder. Are you allowed to ride in China as a individual traveller?

Thanks,
Ranjan

we will be travelling up the KKH in about 3 weeks time , cant wait :D :funmeteryes:

Brisbane2Bristol | On our great adventure

In late November it starts getting too cold. Early October should be fine although adjacent high valleys lose their short spring in early September.

Cheers
Omar

We crossed Khunjerab Pass, the only border post between Pakistan and China, and then Torugat Pass to Kyrgyztan.

It´s not possible for foreigners to drive their own vehicles without an escort in China. :(

Not such good news from the KKH Gilgit area:
BBC News - Nine tourists killed at north Pakistan mountain camp

... the Pakistani Taliban has told the BBC it was responsible... The group said it would continue to target foreigners.

The first such attack up in usually peaceful and safe NE Pakistan, afaik. And its not like there can be that many tourists up there.

I wonder if the police escorts down on the lowlands might now spread up to the KKH too.

More here also: http://pamirtimes.net + latest on the lake.

And to add your PoV on the background to the event, please go here.

Ch

Escorts on the KKH
 

We're currently riding our motorcycles down the KKH and were near Aliabad when the attack happened. We've been escorted on and off by the police between Aliabad, Gilgit and Besham so far, and probably all the way to Mansehra. We even get an escort to go the shop the last few days!

-Olaf

A 30 member and another 45 member groups of MAPPERS are in the area. One group was in Chillas when this tragedy happened. No one came back.

Hey there,

Specially Omie, as I remembered you gave us great informations in 2012 about Hunza lake... we are soon on the way to the KKH again. Will reach Pakistan in the end of July from Iran and exit through China.

What is your opinion about the influences of traveling by car... any latest news of government reactions of the killings. Any idea whether we can pass up north or will the police not allow us?

Thanks for any informations... still can't wait to be back in my favorite travel country.

See yaaa
Roman

Advice KKH
 

Hello,

I am just about to cross the border from India to Pakistan. The plan was to travel the KKH-Region and some sidevalleys in the first half of July. After the attack I have to question my plans.
Will the officials still allow individual traveling in the area, it is blocked or just possible unter armed escorts?
And if it is possible will I feel save at all?
Are there still save regions I can go north of Islamabad or should I take the direct way to Iran?

Any suggetions? Anybody in the same situation?

Greetings from Amristar

Hi Beemer,

yes we are in almost the same situation, we wanted to cross from Iran to Pakistan and the head north to the KKH. We decided not to go and are now working on another plan. Unfortunatly we dont have all the visa to do the Pamir and the way back home, but maybe we can arrange it in Teheran where we went back to now. Its a shame, the KKH should be one of the highlights of our trip.

Anyone else in Iran with the same problem?

Bernie

Hey guys

We will start driving towards KKH soon... will update u as soon we crossed Pakistan. Hope the roads are open...

See yaa
Roman

Hey Roman,
Just met the big group returning from Khanjerab, Shimshal and Minapin etc. They were in Chillas when the tragedy happened.
They noticed nothing strange or different but then, all of them were Pakistanis on motorcycles. Foreigners were escorted by police.

Situation in Pakistan is a bit fluid and can change. As of today every road is open life goes on normally (apparently). Atabad lake has now shrunk to 8kms and opens in Gulmit because the spillway has been made deeper. Cars and jeeps are being routinely transported across the lake.

I will be going to different valleys along the KKH in mid August after Eid either on my XT200 or VX 800. It would include substantial trekking, as much as this 54 years old frame can take.

Once in Pakistan give me a call on 0321-4450343. Would be nice to have a chat over a cup of tea.

Cheers
Omar

Hello,

Right now I am travelling with my motorbike on the Karakorum Highway.

I have started Islamabad and gone all the way to the chineese border and back to Gilgit now.

There are no special restrictions for travelling on the KKH. From Batgran to Chilas there were several police-escorts, but not all the way and not verry serious. So not a big hassle.

After Chilas I had no escorts, only the usual checkpoints with verry friendly policemen. Free choice for hotels and no police protection when walking around. No Permits were requierd.

Things seems to be very "normal", just a lack of other tourists.

Greetings Heiko

Babusar route
 

Hey Heiko,
Had you taken the Babusar route you would have avoided the Battgram-Chillas section. This way you could have bypassed the escorts, heat and 100kms while passing through a beautiful valley.

You still can take it on your way back (If declared open and safe by the local police)
Cheers
Omar

Kkh info 2
 

Resumption

On the way back from Gilgit to Islamabad there where only one police escort from Besham to Thakot. In Besham the police forced us to stay in the Continental Hotel and we get an armed officer to go for dinner and shopping.
The sideroad from Chilas over Babusar La to Naran was closed for tourists for security reasons, and the police did not allow us to drive it.

Greetings Heiko

Hello Heike,

I think we met in Lahore last week, glad to hear you did the kkh trip without too much hassle! We left Aliabad the day after the attacks (June 24th) and got escorts almost the whole way from Aliabad to Abottabad. Appearantly things are easing up a little again.

The Babusar pass has been closed since the attacks on June 23th.

Have a safe trip,
Olaf

@ Olaf

Yes we meet in Lahore, have fun in Ladak

Greetings Heiko

I'm headed in the same direction. Do you need other specific visas other than normal Pakistan visa for these regions?

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2

@12, Pirate, if I may make a suggestion and assuming you have a couple of days spare, don't take the KKH out of ISLBD, it's just another busy; dirty, noisy highway up to Abbottabad. What I did last time, was take the Murree road and then head off through the hills to Nathie Galle, a lovely unspoilt little hill station, with great scenery and decent almost deserted roads which will bring you back around and onto the KKH at Abbottabad, but in a much more pleasant, natural, scenic and stress free route !
Good luck, UB.:scooter:

https://fbcdn-profile-a.akamaihd.net...20960578_q.jpg
Pakistan Tourism Development Corporation (PTDC)
Dear friend, the Government of Gilgit-Baltistan has notified that the Karakoram Highway shall remain closed from 7th to 13th August for all types of vehicles between Shatial-Chilas-Gilgit section. Travellers are advised to take flights (Islamabad-Gilgit or Islamabad-Skardu) or postpone their visit till 14th August.

Has anyone got any updates on the KKH? Are the roads open? I haven't noticed anyone doing this route since the shootings last June. Seems a few people are missing out Pakistan and shipping their bikes from Iran to Dubai.
Any news would be good.

Everything is fine with the KKH. Around 10 different biking groups of MAP were there this summer. Since the major repairs the last 350kms are now in fabulous shape.
The simple rule about Pakistan appears to be, "no news is good news"


Cheers

While you're on Omie, what is the state of the lake and the ferry these days? Is the boat service here to stay or will they try and eliminate the lake eventually?
Do you mean the 'last 350kms' to the Chinese border - sounds like all the way from Gilgit.
Wlt get back up there some time.

thanks

Ch

Hi Chris,
Pakistanis are an unbelievably resilient people and everything is working routinely around the lake. Bikes, cars, vans, trucks are regularly crossing on small boats. Big government rafts are also operating although at a higher cost. A carpeted road along the spillway is complete and cars can easily reach the boats. It is amazing to see how rudimentary technology is being used so effectively.


I am not sure about the fate of the lake but construction of road around it is being done at full speed. At least 6 tunnels are nearly complete and it should be operational in another 1 year.


The part of the KKH that was rebuilt started from Raikot bridge to the Chinese border. This is the 3rd bridge on the Indus 80 kms downstream from Gilgit.


Now that fall is approaching KKH is getting more colorful and prettier. Don't miss it.


Cheers
Omar

I'll be there in a couple of weeks. Can't wait!!! In India at the moment with snow on the mountains.
Any idea what the weather is like around that time? Does the KKH ever close because of snow?

KKH is an all weather road and the only part between Islamabad to Gilgit where it snows regularly is Chattar but the road never stops. North of Gilgit it get colder but very little snowfall although streams and spilled water tends to solidify which can be vicious.



However the KKH remains operational but the border with China closes for nearly 4 months, between 1st January to 1st May every year.


Omar