All sounds good to me.



I'd forgotten Yamaha had that labyrinth seal - harder to diagnose issues but wears well ;)


Messy - yeah that was probably the WORST job there was on a two-stroke - and I'm sure many hours of inhaling the fumes wasn't good for me either!

My suggestion that I always used with this multiple cable issue is to tie the carb cables behind the junction box together with a zip tie, so the flopping around is controlled/synched, until it's necessary for them to split off. Then, make sure the entry to the cable socket on the carb is tied so it's a straight shot that can't move. The oil pump cable doesn't matter, only the two carb cables, or for me the three on the Suzuki triples.



Worth doing, but unless something is BAD it should be plenty.


Still points I assume? I always spent as much time on points gap as timing - getting it perfect on each to factory spec should be fine.

Good luck, hope that helps a little!

And by the way, it's all new jets, especially needle and needle jet? And float level to spec?

The US friend with the DS6 has been getting some miles in on his bike and reported he was only getting 24mpg out of it - less than half of what it should be. Investigation eventually revealed he'd got the cables transposed so the slides had gone into the wrong carbs - and of course the only way they'd do that is if they went in backwards. Other than drinking fuel the bike had been going ok, but it ran a lot better when he changed them round. Strange what you can get used to and accept as normal.

I went looking for new jets and needles a few weeks ago but much of the stuff is out of stock (temporarily I hope) at the UK Mikuni suppliers. I don't want to use aftermarket stuff - Keyster for example - as they seem to be of variable quality.

OE points are quite reliable and I'm happy to stick with them. I'm not one for chucking it all out and fitting some aftermarket electronic 'fix' as often the fix is more unreliable than what you had to begin with. Plus, the only one I'm aware of that's available for this old stuff is aimed at track use and junks the generator in favour of total loss ignition. That would restrict the bike's range even more than reversing the slides. :rofl:

Backwards slides: love it! :)

Jets: Try US Mikuni? Or even Japan?
Points, yes, they work fine :) But I'd carry a spare set, and condensers too.

I've been on the lookout for some genuine points for a while but at £85 each (and you need two) from CMSNL the bank manager is reluctant. Aftermarket are available at around 10% of that but of course if they don't work properly even that is money badly spent. I bought a set of aftermarket ones (fortunately only one) for my B120 a couple of years ago and the static and moveable halves of the contacts only overlapped by about a quarter. It took a lot of 'persuasion' to not only get them to meet but meet squarely. If they're assembled that badly who knows what material they've used for the contacts. They're in the bike but I've kept the old ones 'just in case.'

I've only ever had one (provable) case where a condenser failed and that was where the lead snapped off where it was soldered to the can (yes, it was Lucas!). The car started misfiring and over about a mile or so ground to a halt with the points covered in ash. Cleaning it off got me another mile (etc). Quite how often condensers fail internally I'm not sure but they tend to come into the category of 'magical' therefore suspect. They're cheap enough so they get replaced but if they were £150 each I suspect their 'failure' rate would drop.

CCI oil injection
 

Hi Nigel I live in the same part of the world as you.

You mentioned how the oil infection is important on a Suzuki 185 TF/ TS engine, and not to run premix

I recently bought a go kart for the grandkids and it has a 185 TF engine on it and no oil injection.

Apparently the engine had been recently overhauled, and maybe that's why.

Do you know if the oil injection system is still available, and if not, can one be made up.

Thanks.

The Suzuki 2-strokes were NOT designed to be converted to pre-mix, the oil injection went straight to the crankshaft bearings, and routed via stamped steel "slingers" to the rod bearing, and the piston via a separate line. The crank bearings iirc would be somewhat shielded from a premix, so you'd have to run heavy and pray.
IF the rebuild was done with that in mind, probably removing the slinger, it might be ok. BUT - Suzuki's design was VERY good and they even ran it on the factory race bikes, albeit wired open to a max setting. The TR500 I raced was set that way, as was the TR250.
I would want to know who rebuilt the engine and what if anything they did to modify it.
If mods not done, absolutely get an injection system on it. It shouldn't be too hard to get a used system off a wrecker/breaker. They were extremely reliable, I never knew of a failure when I was a dealer.

Edit: Thinking more, could be a problem getting premix to the big end bearing of the rod because it's expecting to be lubed from oil coming OUT of the crankpin, and RETAIN some of it as long as possible - so it may not get premix INTO the bearing very well.

Yep, that's right, Grant. One of the needed mods to run on premix is to enlarge the oiling eye in the big end of the connecting rod.

Cheers

Nigel in NZ