Horizons Unlimited - The HUBB

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Noel900r 6 Oct 2013 02:10

G'day guy's as always love reading your posts,the high country reminded me of parts of the south island.spectacular country.nice you were able to go 4x4 ing ,after the water crossing ,remind me not to lend you a 4x4,:wink3:

norschweger 9 Oct 2013 19:00

great read and pics!
looks like an advertisement with Salvadors sister on the side of the car.
for a moment I feared you would swim away with the car...: ):funmeteryes:

Two Moto Kiwis 9 Oct 2013 21:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by saralou (Post 439043)
Great posts! Reading it felt just like I was there with you....oh yah I was! Miss the gang, but having an epic time up here!

Sp

Yeah we miss Salvador and Paola they are great people, really enjoyed Bogota.

Two Moto Kiwis 9 Oct 2013 21:34

Quote:

Originally Posted by Noel900r (Post 439058)
G'day guy's as always love reading your posts,the high country reminded me of parts of the south island.spectacular country.nice you were able to go 4x4 ing ,after the water crossing ,remind me not to lend you a 4x4,:wink3:

Heya Noel, yeah having the 4 x 4 trip was a taste of home for sure, a great day out.

So no truck when we come to visit you in OZ ..... miserable bugga, I can bring it back washed :D

Two Moto Kiwis 9 Oct 2013 21:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by norschweger (Post 439525)
great read and pics!
looks like an advertisement with Salvadors sister on the side of the car.
for a moment I feared you would swim away with the car...: ):funmeteryes:

Heya Tobius, yeah cool trip to a great place, ha re my truck I would still rather let it do the swimming in there.:thumbup1:

Two Moto Kiwis 9 Oct 2013 21:37

Bogota And Two Dodgy Ozzies
 
Bogota And Two Dodgy Ozzies

Minding our own business and checking our emails pops up a message saying Two Dodgy Ozzies, being it was bordering on our patented Two Dodgy Kiwis name we investigated further :evil.

Turns out Adrian and Lauren from Ozzie are on a 12 GSA on a north to south trip, just a little shorter than us.

They were arriving in Bogota while we were there and asked if we wanted to catch up???? .... we said nah you are on a BMW, then we found out he did have a 990 Adventure R so ok, we can make concessions(j/k).

We organised to meet and head out for coffee (they also brought along Jürgen, Dan and Sara had seen his F650GS at Girag, Jürgen is tarvelling south too) which turned into lunch, which turned into a walk up the Monserrate for the afternoon followed by an information swap session later that avo.

What a great day out with our neighbours amidst excitement of travel tales and experiences, now Adrian has a feature I am seriously envious of, being able to stand over a tall adventure bike with room to spare, here he is pictured with Ellen.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ff/file-33.jpg

So Adrian and Lauren are touring on a 12 GSA making the most of their time which is cool to see, onya guys for doing it too.

The Team up at the top after our walk.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ff/file-32.jpg

Two Moto Kiwis 9 Oct 2013 21:55

Bogota To Choachi With Paola And Salvador
 
Finally after getting stuff sorted with bike, bank and Bogota we set to, destination Choachi via Jesus.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...or/file-13.jpg

We were here :rofl

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...or/file-17.jpg

Salvador convinced Paola it was a great idea to go for lunch at Choachi, I backed him and we won ... boy power WOH HOH.

As Murphy would have when we got to the top it started raining, being the good bastid that I am a lent her my wet pants, if the social team is happy everyone is happy (and dry)

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...or/file-19.jpg

Then ... as Murphy would have it again ... the rain cleared so my pants worked well.... then it got bloody hot however we were up at 3600 metres and it was cool enough to warrant leaving the pants on and helped keep Paola warm.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...or/file-23.jpg

Arriving at Choachi we went to Salvador and Paolas fav spot with very nice food.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...dor/file-5.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...dor/file-4.jpg

Thanks for that guys, a little treat that was.

So bill time, we agreed at the beginning that we were spotting lunch, Salvador and Paola teamed up and he pulled the “I am going to the toilet” maneuver, Paola tricked me into conversation with Salvador quietly paid until I busted him.

Soooooo while he DID go to the toilet I did the “I will check the bikes” maneuver and quietly stuffed the money into his glovebox on his 950 Adventure ... he he .... won’t get one over the Kiwis!!! :evil :rofl

We won, I rang him when he got home and told him to check his glovebox HA ..Done! :clap

Guys thanks for having us stay with you in Bogota, you really made our stay an absolute blast, helping us and Dan and Sara out as well was beyond the call of duty, we look forward to reciprocating in New Zealand.

Team Salvador and Paola

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...dor/file-7.jpg

Team total

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...or/file-10.jpg

Noel900r 13 Oct 2013 00:04

Hey there's nothing wrong with being a dodgy Ozzie.haha,like the shot of you guy's with Jesus ,boy that's one tall lad.carry on still love you work.
4x4's must be in the Kiwi blood my cousins are just as mad.
I like 4x4 ing but not at the level where i break the car.:D

saralou 13 Oct 2013 01:15

Hey TMK
 
Hola from Medallin! We have had some adventures and lots of fun. We are here for 2 days then head to near Chinchina. Where are you guys headed??

sp

Two Moto Kiwis 14 Oct 2013 01:13

Quote:

Originally Posted by Noel900r (Post 439911)
Hey there's nothing wrong with being a dodgy Ozzie.haha,like the shot of you guy's with Jesus ,boy that's one tall lad.carry on still love you work.
4x4's must be in the Kiwi blood my cousins are just as mad.
I like 4x4 ing but not at the level where i break the car.:D

Heya Noel, yeah luv the 4 wheeling, I try not to break the truck but sometimes mum nature outsmarts me (no hard) and shit happens :innocent: :oops2:

Two Moto Kiwis 14 Oct 2013 01:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by saralou (Post 439919)
Hola from Medallin! We have had some adventures and lots of fun. We are here for 2 days then head to near Chinchina. Where are you guys headed??

sp

Heya Sara, in Tunja tonight, somewhere else tomorrow night then Medellin on Tuesday afternoon.

Two Moto Kiwis 14 Oct 2013 01:18

Choachi To Villanueva
 
Heading off from the highlands of Choachi heading down to Villavicencio we had a wee surprise of three Royal Enfields out for a hoon.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...eva/file-6.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...eva/file-7.jpg

We made attempts to meet ADVer DaytonaMike in Villavicencio no reply so we continued north and took a shortcut which took an interesting turn.

It was a road through the open backlands of the eastern side, we took a turn which led us down a road winding through farmlands and plantations so very nice indeed.

It was hot so we played in the puddles to cool the boots :D

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...va/file-11.jpg

Upon leaving a small town our road turned into a single lane vehicle track that slowly but surely disintegrated to a riverbed style of road, we should have known better at this point.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...va/file-18.jpg

Coming across a small creek we forded it, it was dirty so could not see the bottom or rock, it was also a greasy as a mechanics rag so proved interesting, clip on the pic to play.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...th_file-36.jpg

Negotiating it successfully we carried on with the track getting gnarlier the it appeared ... a river .... a BIG brown river, we would not even cross it in our truck shown up above let alone on Maya loaded so yeap a bit of a show stopper. :D

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...va/file-15.jpg

Oh dear, to turn around was a l o n g way back but to cross was impossible.

Turn back, our only option so we did crossing back over the slippery creek and backtracking some 14 km to the turnoff, again turn left and go wide out or go way back and backtrack back up the main road so we chose to turn left clobbering miles of rough stoney roads and finally finding the magical bridge which we were very happy to find or it would have been an epic back track.

This skinny bridge was a welcome sight

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...va/file-20.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...va/file-27.jpg

Destination was Villanueva, only because we were running miles behind and I was spent, it was also nudging 40 degrees so we were dripping hot, luckily we found a reasonably priced hotel with sort of air-conditioning to save the day.

The last bit of today was so slow with lumpy roads

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...va/file-33.jpg

In fact SO slow today that our shadow got sick of waiting for us then overtook us ... the cheek of it :D

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...va/file-35.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...va/file-34.jpg

Two Moto Kiwis 16 Oct 2013 16:52

Villanueva To Guacheta .... The Tunnel Road
 
Time to head back up to the highlands where we don’t dissolve in the heat :rofl, this whiteyfoo and 40 degrees hmmmm, today was grey so the big black ribbon was not bouncing heat back up at us which came as such a bonus.

A huge rain storm had crossed only seconds ahead of us at one point, only getting a few spits of rain on the screen but our boots got a good wash, Maya receiving a quick waterblast.

We hit the 56 road turnoff squirreling up the zig zag which was mint before leveling off and following the gorge which was very brown from mum nature giving the landscape some watering (turns out a lot of watering).

Stunning day

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...cheta/file.jpg

Brown soup

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...eta/file-1.jpg

The supermoto circuit came to an abrupt stop and the adventure bike circuit started with gusto.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...eta/file-2.jpg

Before we knew it we were into some very rocky terrain, greasy as well, hmmmm time to back off the speed.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...eta/file-4.jpg

Turns out we were in for a massive roadworks treat, mum nature had dealt to the road in epic proportions in places and the damage is significant, several places there was roadworks with big front end loaders and a few big bullys pushing water laden earth around, the mud in these parts was up to 200 mm deep and well beyond MT 90 and Heidenau safe working limits so we slid around like an eel on a hot plate.

Near the end when we found a small creek we washed the radiator out so Maya wouldn't overheat.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...eta/file-5.jpg

Making it through the sloppy section of about 50 km the “zona de tunels” appeared, at least we knew then we were on the right road (this time), the waterfalls inside the tunnels and entry to the tunnels were amazing, we were getting more and more soaked INSIDE the tunnels, some of them enough to fill buckets in seconds.

A clear river, seems the storm was localised, this could be anywhere in New Zealand south island

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...eta/file-6.jpg

Raining inside the tunnel

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...eta/file-8.jpg

This leads you all the way up to the reservoir Embalse La Esmerdald then around the reservoir towards civilization.

Villa De Leyva was meant to be our destination however we fell short of that too (see a patten forming), late in the day, spent from the mudplug we crashed it in at Guacheta.

Guacheta is a small industrial mining town, not what you would call a tourist trap but a nice quiet place to stop and the hotel had hot water ...PERFECT, parking was a little skinny but the owner said hey no worries and people had to walk sideways past Maya, she was a big grubby too from the shenanigans earlier in the day.

Dirty bum!!!:rofl

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ta/file-21.jpg

So ok, here is our second attempt at a vid, this with Latin music hopefully not banned, governed, restricted, patented or without by north American law

Tried to embed but my net nolegde not good

Road 56 Tunnels, Colombia - YouTube

For those maybe unable to see it try this

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...lsColombia.jpg

Danko 16 Oct 2013 17:39

:clap: :D

Two Moto Kiwis 16 Oct 2013 18:43

Quote:

Originally Posted by Danko (Post 440369)
:clap: :D

Will definitely take that as a compliment bier

EDIT, mate what a cool site you have going on there too!

Two Moto Kiwis 16 Oct 2013 18:43

Guacheta To Villa De Leyva
 
Not a big day planned and a gentle scoot through backroads to Villa De Leyva which is a small tourist stop.

For us today was a backroad tour through the pottery manufacturing capital.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...yva/file-3.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...yva/file-4.jpg

Villa De Leya

The tourist town with a HUGE main square or Plaza as they call them here.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...yva/file-6.jpg

Sun setting over the Plaza

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...yva/file-3.jpg

A local ... flat out!!!:D

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...va/file-11.jpg

Was a nice town to visit with many tourist attractions, while there we wanted to see the Teracota Casa, what a seriously cool place.

Here is a couple of pics, if you wonna see tonnes more click on the pic which will take you to our album

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...a/file-108.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...asa/file-9.jpg

While there we did a short climb to the lookout to try and work off some empanadas which have been slowly accumulating thus making a spare tire on us .... we don’t have room for this.

That white dude was copying me :rofl

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...va/file-15.jpg

View from the top looking down into town

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...va/file-19.jpg

On the way back down we stopped at the loveheart (as ya do)

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...va/file-23.jpg

It is actually quite big

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...va/file-24.jpg

The funny things you find in a small town, a Kiwi knife, made in China, found in Villa De Leyva in Colombia fairly international trade goin on there :D

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...yva/file-7.jpg

The place we stayed at has a puppy, pretty groovy wee felless she was keen to play and even keener on our lunch.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...va/file-25.jpg

Next small ride to Sacama, on a red road which means it is paved and easy, after floundering around on some rough backroad it will be nice to see some tar and twisties for a while .....what can possibly go wrong :rofl .. :huh... :eek1

on two wheels 19 Oct 2013 22:34

G,DAY GUYS, GREAT TO SEE YOU STILL ON THE ROAD,
LOVE THE PHOTO,S. I WILL KEEP MY EYE ON THIS THREAD.
YOU,VE MADE IT FEEL I,M ON ROAD WITH YOU GUYS, KEEP
IT COMING AND SAFE RIDING CHEERS GUYS THANKS, ROGER.:scooter:

bigkuri 20 Oct 2013 11:36

Still going strong, great to see. First time I've checked in on your thread for a while, and still loving it :)
Funnily enough I thought of your adventures when deciding if I'll pop back home for Christmas; which will include visiting my sister in Wanaka bier

Warrick

Two Moto Kiwis 22 Oct 2013 02:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by on two wheels (Post 440768)
G,DAY GUYS, GREAT TO SEE YOU STILL ON THE ROAD,
LOVE THE PHOTO,S. I WILL KEEP MY EYE ON THIS THREAD.
YOU,VE MADE IT FEEL I,M ON ROAD WITH YOU GUYS, KEEP
IT COMING AND SAFE RIDING CHEERS GUYS THANKS, ROGER.:scooter:

Great to have you along Roger, still chugging away, only a couple of weeks left and Ecuador calls

Two Moto Kiwis 22 Oct 2013 02:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigkuri (Post 440807)
Still going strong, great to see. First time I've checked in on your thread for a while, and still loving it :)
Funnily enough I thought of your adventures when deciding if I'll pop back home for Christmas; which will include visiting my sister in Wanaka bier

Warrick

Heya Warrick, we won't be home for another two Christmases yet b u t if you come when we are there be sure to look us up.

We are not hard to find.

BTW what does your sister do in Wanaka?

Two Moto Kiwis 22 Oct 2013 02:08

Villa De Leyva To Mongui
 
With an easy day set in mind we headed north to find our paved road was in fact no quite paved and in fact was quite lumpy, easy enough then we hit tar :clap

An unusual church in Santa Sofia

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...gui/file-2.jpg

We made it to Paipa and stopped for lunch and were looking at maps and GPS deciding which way to go.

While at lunch I heard a 4 cyl bike go past, slow down and stop, then turn around and come back (we were also on a one way street but that makes no difference here) :rofl

I local dude was out on a ride and stopped to look at Maya, I went out to find him positioning the bikes for a full on photo, he had managed to talk the hot young lusty from the girls lingerie shop to take a pic.

Classic, next thing I was in there too big smiles all round.

The rider came into the restaurant and we chatted about place to go he duly pointed to where we had been looking which was Lake Tota set at 3200 meters.

Lunch was had, goodbyes etc and we were on our way, tap dancing over toppes, going around cars and making the potholes even bigger with the 950 trench cutter.

A cool monument between Paipa and Lake Tota

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...gui/file-6.jpg

Our road wound its way up and over via shingle and tar, a marriage we had gotten used to, climbing up and over the pass it got cold, Lake Tota in sight it is beautiful and clear.

Paddocks at 3600 meters take on a different look

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...gui/file-7.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...gui/file-9.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ui/file-10.jpg

The town of Aqitana was in our sights as the place to stay, although early in the afternoon it was easy.

Rocking into town Maya created quite the storm, we tried to find a reasonable priced hotel but nup, the cheapest was $35 mil and was a POS the next level was set for tourists rather than travellers.:huh

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ui/file-12.jpg

The local Police got in on the act and there was a competition to find a hotel amongst the force with each one reporting back to camp leader who was with us.:D

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ui/file-14.jpg

In the end they said sorry nothing reasonably priced ... with hand shakes and thank yours we headed to Sogamoso with our afternoon starting to expire.

That was a neat hoon down a great road, now trying to find a reasonable hotel in this area was turning out to be a mish and we had no luck there in the big city, I think we were in the wrong place.

With Mongui not far away it had the appeal of a small place in the hills, so ..... aim, fire and we set off on a reasonable road which turned into a small single lane dirt road and Mrs.Garmin kindly leading us through a myriad of back road cross stitch, at 4 km to go Mrs.Garmin had a moment and recalculated, by this time it was dark and she added another 6 km of backroad which was slow going, we were very grateful for outstanding lighting from the LEDs, ..... s o ....Ok, (as given to us from another famous RTW traveller) rule 1 ..... always trust your GPS, rule 2 .....never trust your GPS, rule 3 ..... refer rule 1

With the end in sight we chose option 1 & 3 eventually getting into town under the shadow of darkness.

Now Mongui is a very very quiet wee place, hard to sneak in quietly on the bike and we caught the attention of the local police (again) as we rode around the town square the wrong way ... again :rofl, a quick telling off then he helped us get to our hostel.

What started as plenty of time diminished quickly with a string of events, Mongui sits at 3200 meters so again it was cold, perfect for sleeping in.

A good nights sleep was had after a coupla rum roadies.

Two Moto Kiwis 22 Oct 2013 18:57

Mongui To Paz De Airporo
 
The loop we did so it all makes sense

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ro/file-45.png

We decided to stay two nights at Mongui as we had done some reasonably big back road days consisting of 90% plus shingle, rocks and mud so Mongui turned into a rest spot.

Monguis big specialty is the beautiful church in the main plaza

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ui/file-18.jpg

And a neat wee stream with trout in it

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ui/file-15.jpg

Upon leaving we had visions of heading to Sacama then up to El Cocuy, it was a “red” road on the map and all previous “red” roads had tarmac of varying quality so doable, leaving Mongui was sealed for about 10 km then that was it.

We past a horse and cowboy mob celebrating the Colombian soccer win, these guys were into it.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...iporo/file.jpg

Heading deeper into the mountains we uncleverly past our last fuel stop thinking there was one further up (the station we went past was packed) but with 30 L tank and still a healthy volume it wasn’t an issue until we really started to climb and climb for miles.

We stopped at a gasolinera and found out that where we were heading was no more gas until Sacama and quite some climb yet, also the road getting rougher meant lower gears so more fuel usage.

In order to play safe and not get stuck at nearly 4000 meters we put in 2 gallons and set off into the distance climbing and climbing.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...oro/file-1.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...oro/file-2.jpg

Reaching the top of the valley we rode many km on top of the world in a stunning moonscape tortured by mum nature due to the elevation and pretty much having the entire place to ourselves.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...oro/file-6.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...oro/file-7.jpg

Back to our visions, well, that didn’t quite pan out as the road roughened and got muddier with some repairs done to the pot holes, a smoothe section with attempted fixes.:rofl

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...oro/file-8.jpg

There were small tarns dotted around the landscape with small waterfalls

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ro/file-40.jpg

The road then got muddy ....and stayed like that for a considerable distance.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ro/file-12.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ro/file-16.jpg

Then came the mind torture, Mrs.Garmin was happy then said do a U turn and drive 60 km ... WTF .... then continue 60 km straight ahead, then do a U turn, then drive 44 km ahead, U turn, 20 km ahead, U turn, 44 km ahead.

Starting to wonder what was going on we stopped at a house and asked ...she said si senor todo derecho (yes sir straight ahead).

Back to not sure whether to trust the GPS we did continue, human intervention payed off with the basics of well there was no road to turn off and no other way around it so it must be right, trust your own gut instinct.

Mrs.Garmin kept telling lies, then went from 60 km, down to 40 km, down to 20 km down to 4.4 km in the space of 2 km, we spotted a place of worship of significant size and the road got very good very quick like within 100 meters from mush and mud to this in the pic... ah ha civilization, sure enough just after that we spotted Sacama with some relief of not having an epic backtrack.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ro/file-20.jpg

Sacama was a late afternoon lunch then we hit it to get out to Hato Corozal, the police said two hours .... for 61 km .... WTF ...no way man we are on a big bike, he was right, rough as a river bed in places then were saw the smooth stuff in the distance .... you beauty .... erh wrong that was sandpit and lots of it so yeap a false friend in the distance kinda like a mirage in a desert.

Rough road and mum nature decided we were too smelly :rofl

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ro/file-21.jpg

The dreaded smooth bits and the welcomed lumps beside it, this was our road for some 20 km.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ro/file-23.jpg

Then this, huge straights, very wide

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ro/file-44.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ro/file-25.jpg

A quick 180 of the scene, the big black baddies is where we came from, click on the pic to play

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...th_file-30.jpg

Making it into Hato Corozal there was a huge festival .... NOT a sausage of accom anywhere, thankfully it was only 20 minute blast down real tarmac that was actually almost smooth down to Paz De Aiporo so we laid our bones down to rest for the night there, certainly no tourist town but excellent food.

Another accidental big day .... almost like work.

Two Moto Kiwis 25 Oct 2013 16:17

Paz De Airporo To Tunja
 
After the big day it was a tarseal cowboy jaunt for a while, looking out east of the mountains towards Venezuela there is an empty expanse you could hide New Zealand in ... it is just huge.:eek1

Entering into Aguazul the road was blocked with hundreds of trucks and cars .... again so we pushed our way to the end of the line, a young Policeman was there and just flagged us through, the next Policeman at mid point said no you can’t go through ... WTF so we had a language barrier discussion in the middle of the street as he said we had to wait two hours for when the bike race was coming through.

We only needed to go about 50 meters and we were home free. We parked Maya and I walked over to “the other end” 50 meters away and in pig spinglish asked if we could come through to another young Policeman behind some cones ....he kinda indicated ok.:clap

Raced casually back to Maya, Ellen and put our gear on quietly outa sight of Mr.Plod no 2 who wouldn't let us through then hit the button without looking back while aiming directly for the policeman with the cones at which point he shifted the cones and we carried on through ... too easy. WOH HOH ... there are merits in not quite understanding and looking very different :rofl

Our intention was to get to the salt church and we took a short cut so we didn’t have to backtrack on a road we had done, we had a great time wondering around backroads that turned out to be anything other than a shortcut .. I shoulda learnt by now.

This is common sight, the militars giving the thumbs up, it is not that they like our bike it means you are ok and safe to pass, great job you guys!!!! .... and I always thought they all liked KTM 950 Super Enduros :rofl

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...Tunja/file.jpg

We did however get to ride through beautiful gorges and mostly on tarseal .....to that point

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...nja/file-1.jpg

Lake Tota was on the list to go back past then turn off into the unknown which it really did turn out to be.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...nja/file-4.jpg

There are bits of civilisation dotted around here and their

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...nja/file-5.jpg

Later in the afternoon at 3800 meters and a road ending by a small lake that looked like a picture from Dr Seuss we opted to take the road down to Tunja.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...nja/file-8.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ja/file-12.jpg

We had at that point spent all afternoon skunking around in the back yard again on shingle etc .... hmmm we am not very good at staying on tar.

We knew the road would go to Tunja as we had run out of other roads so by process of elimination it worked.

Tunja sits at 3000 meters so we didn’t pull out the speedos, alway a bonus to sleep at that height tho with cooler temps.

We made the most of the cooler temps as the next day we were heading back down to the lowlands ..... note slightly warm :huh

Two Moto Kiwis 25 Oct 2013 16:59

Tunja To Puerto Boyaca
 
Heading back to Medellin to get the rear shock checked, radiator protectors on and new Motorex blood for the engine we hit the tar seal to Barbosa.

Although we had come through this road prior it was from the opposite way and with the wetter conditions it bought out waterfalls etc so it seemed like an entirely new road and of course the view where opposite, it is amazing what you see looking back, this was not flowing last time :eek1

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ayaco/file.jpg

This was new road (for a change) and again with mum nature feeding the land it made for great waterfalls.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...aco/file-1.jpg

Heading up and over the road from Barbosa we had already done however we had already covered most roads so ran out of options at that point :huh. We did get to see more this time as the weather/fog was clearer :clap

During the night there had been massive thunder storms west of us, luckily the road up and over the top had missed most of it and was pretty dry as there is upwards of 50 km of ratty roadworks.

Getting back down onto the main drag we headed toward Puerto Boyaca to stay the night, along this road the amount of rain had become apparent but we were unaffected being on tar for a change.

Creeks were full and this was common sight along here.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...aco/file-3.jpg

Not much more to say cos it was an easy open road ride ...... nice for a change :clap

Two Moto Kiwis 25 Oct 2013 22:20

Page Shortening post
 
As said bier

Two Moto Kiwis 25 Oct 2013 22:21

Puerto Boyaca To Medellin
 
No AC .... stinking hot, 280 meters above sea level, we were both dissolving in the heat but no complaints as we were heading back up to Medellin to the cooler temps at 1800 meters.

Check this out, easy cycling up hill, truck was only doing 45 - 50 k but this dude has skill (if he is still alive :rofl)

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...slide/file.jpg

The day was an easy tarseal jaunt, we had been over that road but not toward Medellin, on top of that mum nature had been watering the place well with massive thunderstorms again illuminating the skies at night so that bought out the waterfalls and changed the perspective on the road.

All was going well until we pulled up behind some cars, then some trucks hmmmm.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ide/file-1.jpg

So ok the left hand lane plus or minus was free so we rode on by km after km past trucks, buses are cars, nearly 5 km long then it was clear again for no reason so we larfed and carried on.

Only 1 km up the road we came across more trucks, buses and cars, this time they were parked all over the road and this time because of landslides and washouts from the previous night sky fireworks.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ide/file-2.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ide/file-4.jpg

We managed to sneak our way around this lineup which was another 4 km long up to the front then it became apparent the extent of damage done by the downpour.

A landslide had come down claiming nearly 300 meters of road with a slurry of mud and rocks up to 1.5 meters deep, it had come down at 5 am hence the incredibly long lineup.

On investigating the damage they had two small diggers chipping away at it, they had been going about an hour when we got there and we were stuck there for 3.5 hours waiting, think of the poor guys how were there from 5.00am.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...de/file-11.jpg

It was fookin hot and this was the ONLY day we left saying we will be there in two hours so don't worry about filling up with water, lesson learned never assume you will get trough without issue no matter how close you are, lucky we have a backpack and filter system.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...de/file-14.jpg

They were not allowed to push the slurry over the edge into the gully as it would go in the river, the reckoned it would block it, I reckon it would not stand a chance of blocking it with the flow of the angry waters.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...de/file-38.jpg

The diggers spent half their time backing up the road with a load of flowing muck, half of it falling out before getting to the drop point, and some of it flowing straight back down the road where it came from so a LOT of double handling going on.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...de/file-39.jpg

On completion of the final slurry being removed there was huge cheers from the audiences at each end then a running race back to the motos to let the race begin.

As usual they let the traffic go in an orderly fashion ... which lasted 30 seconds before mayhem took over, we were surrounded by a swarm of small motos and the police inundated and powerless to stop the chaotic flow.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...de/file-17.jpg

Per usual here you either dive in or get left behind so we made sure we were up the front knowing only a km out of the traffic jam we would be past them and home free.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...de/file-24.jpg

In the slip midship

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...de/file-27.jpg

The traffic was 5 km long from the other side of the slip and with only one lane open it would be another couple of hours at least before they all got through.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...de/file-32.jpg

Arriving “late” was no biggy as we said we would be there later afternoon anyway, again leaving our gear there in R2R Maya hit the bath tub again to wash off all the good times.

The mission was to resolve the shock knock, make some sacrificial slider for the radiator and change the oil.

To finish, here is the "unplugging" of the slip with everyone going through in an orderly fashion :rofl

See the vid, dunno how to embed it here, anyone know please chime in.

[YOUTUBE]http://youtu.be/42MulsqzCqw[YOUTUBE]

Noel900r 26 Oct 2013 02:50

You guy's make my weekend
 
Great photo's as always.I always thought the guy's with the thumbs up were impressed that the K,eep T,hrowing M,oney was still running well ,go figure.
Getting a bit frustrated as house market here has died,could be some time before i get to do my own epic adventure.untill then i'll follow yours.take care guy's regards Noel:D:D

Two Moto Kiwis 29 Oct 2013 03:21

Medellin To Mariquita
 
Time to take Maya in for a manicure moto style.

While in Medellin we had the rear shock re-checked, although they did their best we still have a knock between the compression and rebound strokes so now it can stay like that until it packs a sad or does what it does, they can’t find anything that is causing the noise within the shock.

The radiator was being rubbed by the safari tank because the safari tank is expanding with the heat here and rubbing hard against the radiator side tanks causing wear.

Calling on the Orange Crush lads of ADV rider I was given good advice that yes it WILL wear through if not attended to.

Confirming what I had thought we then put some ideas together, I told Andres from R2R what I wanted to achieve and he came up with a great plan of using double sided sticky tape to hold on the sacrificial angles we had formed to fit to the radiator.

This worked out really well as we didn’t really want to solder anything to the side tanks of the radiator.

Using the double sided sticky we utilized three strips per side and three strips on the back so cross fingers it will stay there.

The LHS

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...M/file-106.jpg

The RHS

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...M/file-107.jpg

Maya also received new 15 - 50 fully synthetic Motorex blood which we overshot the change by mileage by 59 km .... don’t tell anyone.:rofl

Unfortunately our fuel pump died, the Dr Bean circuit board seems ok but our pump failed, we left R2R and only got a few km down the road before it completely died and Maya had to be taken back on a truck for diagnostics.:cry

We discovered our pump was still pumping but soon as any load was applied it just died, R2R very kindly lent us a fuel pump to get us on our way.

That afternoon, although we were now 4 hours behind and still in Medellin another silver lining appeared with meeting Daniel and Lina, Daniel is famous for riding the indian made Bajaj branded bike from South America, up through South Africa, up and across to India to the factory where it was made.

This is on a 180 cc bike with two metal side cases and a top box, his ride was based on taking the bike from Colombia and riding it back to where it was born ... pretty bloody cool.

Daniel has made it to print in magazines and articles so a primo effort from a Colombian man following his passion, he also has an old skool BMWR80GS which I like too.

This on Daniel .....

"AROUND THE WORLD on a PULSAR “ Journey of a lifetime"
Daniel Velandia, a Colombian biker and a proud owner of the Bajaj Pulsar, has traveled around the world to 23 countries on his Pulsar180, and finally reached Pune in India, the hometown of the Pulsar.

Pune, June 2, 2009: Daniel Velandia, a biker from Colombia has just concluded a mammoth journey around the world on his Pulsar 180, traveling across 23 countries and covering about 30,000 miles from Columbia to Pune, India. This was a journey of a lifetime and of self-discovery for Daniel, experiencing the freedom and magic that can only be sensed onboard a motorcycle, to the commands of a Pulsar 180, which Daniel calls Elvira.

He was struck with the idea of combining his passion for Motorcycling and Traveling across the globe in the year 2007, giving birth to this adventure. His journey started from South America, through the African continent and concluded in Asia. Along the way he passed countries such as Columbia, Argentina, South Africa, riding country by country towards northern Africa, passing by the Suez Canal to the Middle East, and finally arriving in India. Daniel's motorcycle was equipped with some trimming protections to save him from any fall and was loaded with two cases for his limited luggage.

He rode on his Pulsar 180 showcasing to the world that his motorcycle can handle the 30000 miles, climbing snow clad mountains, crossing deserts and the African Steppe and finally arriving in India to reach Pune, where his very own Pulsar was born in Bajaj Auto's Chakan plant. He is overwhelmed by the performance of his Pulsar during this journey with special mention for its great autonomy, handling and amazing fuel economy.

Daniel says, "I am delighted on completing this journey on my Pulsar 180. My dream of traveling and riding across the World has become a reality. This has been an unforgettable adventure, filled with unparalleled experiences, surviving difficult times in which both human and machine strength were tested, but from which both came out proud.

He further added, "I really wanted to visit the place where this wonderful machine is being made and I thank Bajaj Auto India and Auteco Bajaj in Colombia and its people for fulfilling my wishes."

According to Mr. Ashok Saxena, General Manager-Marketing, International Business, Bajaj Auto Ltd " This is the kind of journey, which is a dream for every biker. We would like to congratulate Mr. Velandia on successfully completing this enormous adventure and wish him all the best for his future endeavors."

He further added," Bajaj has been in the forefront of developing products like Pulsar, which instills this passion in its rider and drives such levels of performance. This journey has once again shown that Pulsar is numero uno when it comes to performance biking. We will continue to make such dreams a reality for professional bikers, with our commitment to provide distinctly ahead products."

Profile of Mr. Daniel Velandia :-
Daniel Velandia is 34 years old and he has been riding motorcylces for the last 9 years. His first possession was a Plus (Chetak 150) model, year 93 and over the last 5 years,he has dedicated his life to motorcycles.He was a test rider at a local factory in colombia and then a test rider for the colombian magazine La Revista DEMOTOS where he had the opportunity to test some amazing motorcycles. During the course of this trip, he got the opportunity to pursue some riding courses, both off road and race road riding, in South Africa. He hopes in future to get some kind of a PhD for riding.

For more information,please visit his blog :-
http://www.elcolombiano.com/infograf...lish/home.html

About Bajaj- Pulsar
In 2001 when motorcycles were just an efficient mode of transport, Bajaj Auto Ltd. launched a performance motorcycle with distinct styling and muscular features. Eight successful years later, the Pulsar is today one of the icons of youthful, progressive and confident India.

The Bajaj Pulsar continues to set new benchmarks in technology, performance, and styling.The Pulsar's durability and its sustainability in the toughest condition has been worthwhile to address the needs of a growing segment of pro-bikers. Today, the Pulsar is not only India's best performance motorcycle it also is the category leader with nearly 50% market share in the 150cc plus segment. Pulsar has presence in global markets as well including Columbia and it has been well received the world over.

Daniel Velandia – From South America to India on a Pulsar 180!


KTM, if you need someone to do that pick me, I have not been Austria yet (we almost did but ran out of time) I will happily ride a bike back to Austria .... and 1190R will do!!

So, back to reality, Daniel and Lina seeing our plight and learning we are RTW travellers kindly invited us back to their place up in the hills above Medellin, we accepted their offer and once Maya was going we followed them home.

A quick stop to buy some tea on the way and we arrived at their .... and what a cool home they have, close enough to Medellin but so tranquil in bush, perfecto!!!

Daniel And Lina ... not sure what his grin had in mind :eek1 :D

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...na/file-11.jpg

Groovy fire place

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...na/file-20.jpg

The stair case

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...na/file-14.jpg

Someone who looked like Daniel liked Maya too, he has good taste :rofl

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ina/file-1.jpg

Chats over some wine and food, about travels, motos and experiences a great night unfolded, we saw some of Linas works as well, she has an arty touch I can only dream of and a singing voice that makes you sit up and listen.

The moon over Colombia from their home through the trees

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...na/file-13.jpg

Onya guys, a real pleasure to meet you and Lina ... see you in New Zealand?

The four of us

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...0Lina/file.jpg

The following day was back to reality heading toward Bogota to get some shite sorted out, the not so good part or travelling, more or this under our Bogota report to come.

The road was meant to be blocked by protesters so we already had a Plan B put in place just in case, as usual when your are organised for it you don’t need it and we had an easy run through, we decided to stay in Mariquita that night so the next day would be shorter in Bogota and we could reach the US Embassy in time.

Getting into Manizales the clouds opened and we got a good wash, heading in to get petrol we geared up for what looked to be a very wet and cold 3800 pass but after fueling up, gearing up it had almost past us, we left the gear on anyway knowing it will be cold at the top which turned out to be a good move.

Up and over the pass was quite pleasant apart from one woman driver trying to overtake us into a blind corner locking it up and almost losing it ... dunno what the hell she was thinking and at that point she may have felt the same but she cut us off to save her arse nearly kicking us off the road only to sit in front of us in traffic ... total winner. :huh

Next day Bogota.

Two Moto Kiwis 29 Oct 2013 03:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by Noel900r (Post 441441)
Great photo's as always.I always thought the guy's with the thumbs up were impressed that the K,eep T,hrowing M,oney was still running well ,go figure.
Getting a bit frustrated as house market here has died,could be some time before i get to do my own epic adventure.untill then i'll follow yours.take care guy's regards Noel:D:D

Heya Noel

Bumma bout the pad man, don't worry it will sell for sure ... maybe look at renting it in between then bugger off and live on the rent?, ...see you here in South America ... no pressure

I think the K,eep T,hrowing M,oney still going by itself impressed them ... they seem to know a lot about KTM :clap:

Two Moto Kiwis 1 Nov 2013 18:28

Ripped Off
 
Taking a taxi from Salvis place to the US embassy was an adventure in itself, the taxi should cost $6mil and the wonderful taxi driver who assumed we didn’t know where we were going took us around in circles and despite us telling him where to go in and he ignored us taking us around the block. :huh

When he said 12 mil we said no and that is when the fight started, he called the police which was perfect.:clap

The police were good, the taxi driver tried to charge us double so I told him to get ****ed (politely), he called the cops (good move) and the cops sided with us when they heard where we had come from and how much he was trying to charge, the taxi driver wouldn't accept my offer of what we SHOULD pay so we just walked off ... he followed us for 300 metres yelling and carrying on to the embassy with the police in tow who were getting less and less happy with the taxi driver by the second.

Even the US embassy lady at the gate was getting pissy with the taxi driver so I said very firmly 6 mil or nada to the taxi driver as we were about to go through the gates into the embassy, he snatched it and swore at us in Spanish (well done) and the police nearly thumped him.

No receipt tho from the taxi driver (surprise)*

The fun side of travelling :cry

The Reason We Are At The US Embassy

So yes some wanker in Antigua, Guatemala cloned or copied my debt card, they spent $930 US on my card in Antigua when we were in El Salvador up in Parque Imposible.

We have shown all the evidence to the bank including our passports stamped out of Guatemala but they have a forged sig which is really bad and they are sticking with it so we had to travel 500 km back to Bogota, get an affidavit notarized at the US embassy then get our passports notarized as to being authentic and now we have to go through the small claim court to recover our money that we didn't spend:baldy:baldy.

The bank Wells Fugwits better known as Wells Fargo has been the biggest pack of wankers to deal with ever.

They have stuck their head in the sand in the face of verified information and said no so their bill is going to go up ten fold now with legal counsel.

Epic!!!

So not everything works the way you want it to, now no slant on the US but the three things we have been ripped off on our trip are US based and we are travelling in dangerland down here :rofl hmmmmm

markharf 1 Nov 2013 18:44

Which ATM did you use in Antigua? The obvious bank of three (AFAIR) on the main square in the center of town have been famously compromised for a couple of years now. If you used only others, you'd do a real service to say which ones.

Two Moto Kiwis 1 Nov 2013 19:09

Bogota To El Espinal To Neiva
 
So with the completion of our shitty legal side of the trip done we hit resume, destination El Espinal mainly because we were running later out of Bogota by the time we Fed Exed everything off to the USA.

As we were heading to Neiva we headed west out of Bogota which was an easier option than south.

The traffic thickened with people sitting in red lights and pushing in and general mayhem, we had a very narrow escape when a dickhead in a blue dodge truck couldn’t keep his bumper to himself and lightly T bones us in the right pannier scorching our case and world sticker and leaving blue paint from front to back ...n o i c e.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...va/file-19.jpg

Then we got stuck in a truck and bus traffic jam, we had miles to go and we were sitting surrounded by trucks, the little motos were able to squeeze through but it was difficult for us with our panniers, I managed to sneak a break through to the right hand side and we managed for quite some time to actually make ground.

Then the traffic just locked and was not moving (except little motos) so .... 250 mm wheel travel, big wheels, dirt bike style we break out and onto the “footpath” area which was dirt, dumped fridges and various rubbish with a semi walking path through it all, some little motos followed on like the pied piper.

We did ok but the 300 mm steps on industrial driveways etc stopped the the little motos and we continued lights to lights pretty much offroad, in and out, up and over kerbs and off drop-offs 300 - 400mm high in places which made it interesting but we managed to bust out and get going....kind fun too.

Once out of Bogota the pace relaxed and we a very nice road to ride mostly down hill from Bogota which sits at 2500 meters down to nearly sea level so yes it got hotter and hotter really quickly.

Stopping in El Espinal for the night we set up for our desert road assault, the turnoff which is about 20 km south of Natagaima.

In El Espinal we found our mate from New Zealand :D

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...Neiva/file.jpg

The road starts like any other but has some cool surprises, several km in there are two tunnels with a bridge running between them then it opens out into the Tatacoa Desert with terrain varying from sandpits to cool clay formations, for those who have been to Bryce Canyon this is a smaller version of that with Cactuses and stunning colours.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...iva/file-3.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...iva/file-5.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...va/file-10.jpg

We took the main road down through the desert and decided to come back sans cases and have a better look around ....and it was 43 degs C

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...va/file-18.png

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...va/file-13.jpg

Getting into Neiva it was confirmed we are Kool :rofl ...or at least our twins are

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...va/file-17.jpg

Also we were meeting up with Diego in Neiva with the plan of heading out, this worked out perfectly.

To back track slightly, we met Diego at Villavencia when we stopped at the same place for roast beef lunch, Diego was interested in us and our trip and we were interested talking with a local biker so when we said we were heading south to San Augustin he invited us to join him in Neiva, the world is a great place.:clap

Neiva

We left from Neiva later afternoon (at 40 degs C) and got to the observatory with perfect timing 1/2 hour before sunset with the oranges and red coming out quicker that rats leaving a sinking ship so camera time was little.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ert/file-6.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ert/file-7.jpg

Wow, this place can turn it on, the colour changes were incredible so we were mindful of trying to catch it to share but also to just be there and enjoy it with Diego and his friend.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...rt/file-14.jpg

Diego liked Maya too

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...rt/file-15.jpg

The colours changing with low sun and shadows

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...rt/file-23.jpg

Maya ready and waiting

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...rt/file-32.jpg

Diegos bike with the clay colours

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...rt/file-42.jpg

Sunset

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...rt/file-18.jpg

After feeling very appreciative of the location and setting we headed back with a bottle of Rum calling our names, one must rehydrate after being in the desert ya know.

Diego with his mum and sis, very nice family indeed (dad was at study)

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ert/file-4.jpg

Vid of the desert

Tatacoa Desert Road - YouTube


<iframe width="960" height="720" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/zDEtZOQJ-cY" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Two Moto Kiwis 1 Nov 2013 19:15

Quote:

Originally Posted by markharf (Post 442221)
Which ATM did you use in Antigua? The obvious bank of three (AFAIR) on the main square in the center of town have been famously compromised for a couple of years now. If you used only others, you'd do a real service to say which ones.

Actually to be straight up we are not 100% sure if it was cloned there or not but the shop called ARTESANIAS ANTIGUA GUATEMALA GT did the dodgy swipe transaction IN person on what appears to be a zip zap machine and I still have my card in my possession.

So in essence we don't know exactly where it was done which is a bugga or I would gladly offer it up.

Either way we are in for a shit fight for our own money, NEVER assume the bank or VISA will look after you as the sigs etc are so different it is not funny.

Two Moto Kiwis 3 Nov 2013 13:31

1.5 Years On The Road
 
This time 18 months ago or 1.5 years ago we left New Zealand for our 1.0 - 1.5 years on the road, here we are at 1.5 year and we have not even reached the equator

So today is our 1.5 year on the road celebration here in Cali, Colombia

troos 3 Nov 2013 13:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by Two Moto Kiwis (Post 441424)
As said bier

Quote:

Originally Posted by Two Moto Kiwis (Post 442414)
This time 18 months ago or 1.5 years ago we left New Zealand for our 1.0 - 1.5 years on the road, here we are at 1.5 year and we have not even reached the equator

So today is our 1.5 year on the road celebration here in Cali, Colombia

I'll have a whiskey on your behalf :clap:

Two Moto Kiwis 3 Nov 2013 17:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by troos (Post 442416)
I'll have a whiskey on your behalf :clap:

Good man, no excuse needed but what the hell :thumbup1:

Two Moto Kiwis 3 Nov 2013 17:54

Neiva To The Finca
 
A very family orientated post and true Colombia at its best, not much moto or travel stuff today, this really was a relaxing on the ground day with Diegos family for which are very grateful for being invited to join in.

Being Sunday morning Diego and his family go to grandmas casa about half an hour away to enjoy a family day out .... and we can see why, very welcoming family, the Finca (Farm) has a huge swimming pool, volley ball court, soccer field, 3 dogs, a super cool cat that looks like a tiger and a horse.

With lunch planned on the way we took Diego, his mum and sister out for a family lunch (Dad is studying) at a thermal pool place then off to the Finca to enjoy the afternoon or snacks, natural juices and coffees while stuffing around in the pool and riding the horse ... it was harsh. :D

Diego and sis with us

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...arm/file-1.jpg

No need to write about this :evil

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...arm/file-2.jpg

At the Finca Maya created a little interest so we stuck her up on the centre stand so family and friends could have a sit and see what we have to put up with :rofl

Biker chica mum aboard the mighty Mayan...... go girl!!!!:clap

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...arm/file-9.jpg

Even Grandma sat on the steel pony ...awesome :clap

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...rm/file-11.jpg

The horse correspondingly created interest, hot horse chica :evil

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...rm/file-25.jpg

He seemed happy enough so not sure why the long face :rofl

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...rm/file-26.jpg

I had a hoon on the neddy too taking him for a hoon around the property

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...rm/file-22.jpg

Diego and I, I had a word to the horse and told him to be nice :huh

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...rm/file-14.jpg

A lite tea was had, the rice that is cooked in the pig, just beautiful, sorry bout my woolly belly in the pic, next time I will try and find a supemodel or hot Colombian chica to do it :rofl

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...rm/file-27.jpg

A finish to the night in the pool, have camera will take pics

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...rm/file-32.jpg

We stayed the night there, waving goodbye to Diego and his family after a very nice day out they headed for home back in Neiva.

Next destination, San Agustin.

Thanks Diego, a real pleasure meeting you and your family and thank you for showing us your “locale”, when you guys come to New Zealand we can show you our back yard.

PS that 950 suits you sir ..!!:clap

norschweger 4 Nov 2013 14:41

Quote:

Originally Posted by Two Moto Kiwis (Post 442414)
This time 18 months ago or 1.5 years ago we left New Zealand for our 1.0 - 1.5 years on the road, here we are at 1.5 year and we have not even reached the equator

So today is our 1.5 year on the road celebration here in Cali, Colombia

Congrats!!
you have gone through so much struggle but you keep going strong!
Better luck in continuation and maybe I catch up...

greets from Caucasia

Noel900r 5 Nov 2013 08:52

Wow 1,5 years! since i have followed you guy's from the start i think i'll have a nice Whisky too.
Seriously though iv'e really enjoyed all you posts .
Oh i bet you are not home in another 1.5 years .
well not unless coin gets short.
Carry on ,regards Noel:Dbierbier

Two Moto Kiwis 6 Nov 2013 01:40

The Finca To San Agustin
 
San Augustin

Leaving the Finca was slippery after some heavy rain during the night and the puddles had grown big...none the least we made it out to the main road with only a few wobbles in the stodgy stuff :clap

Encountering the usual roadworks stops and a heap of trucks was the norm when on main tar roads and today was no exception but it was a smooth run through beautiful farms lands.

Arriving with a bloody barb from a barb wire fence stuck into the tyre we carefully examined it before puling it out, I must be the luckiest guy alive as it has chosen a deep knobbly and had gone in sideways .... WOH HOH escaped!!:clap

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We clocked in and took in town as we had arrived with plenty of time, no landslides or epic accidents today ...boring :rofl.

We had planned to look at the archeological sites which San Agustin is known for, we opted to do a “jeep” tour which meant we didn’t have to faf around with our gear, it also came with a bonus parque pass for Ellen which made it more attractive and we got to see some extra shit on the tour.... our rig a clapped out Isuzu Trooper POS that rattled and clunked badly ... but it worked.

The hotel owner said part of the road was EXTREMELY dangerous and no good on the motos ..... pift turns out to be a great sales tactic, so we showed him what we had been riding ..... it was funny, nonetheless we wanted a hassle free day where I could sit back and enjoy too :deal.

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This fella is 7 metres high

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All in all a great day was had, I think we have seen every tomb in the district, I was waiting for Lara Croft to pop out but she never did (I had the camera on boobie mode too), I think she was at lunch or something.

There is the highest waterfall in Colombia there, it is also the second highest in South America at 400 meters high, Angel falls in Venezuela in numero uno although not much rain meant our view of the falls was minimal.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...in/file-20.jpg

Another claim to fame in the Magdalena River which narrows to just 2 meters wide at one point, it is however 10 meters deep, the bigger thing it is Colombia’s largest largest river and travel south to north 1528 km so nearly 1000 miles into the Caribean sea.

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So for those who know what sort of rains Colombia gets you can understand to size of the monster.

We also met Dave, an Ozzie on a Wee Strom travelling north so chats about bike, travel etc again WOH HOH, his bike with Maya

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...0Cali/file.jpg

Destination Cali next to the famous Hotel Casa Blanca run by Mike.

Noel900r 6 Nov 2013 09:15

Go the Aussie's!
 
The wee strom seams to becoming a very popular bike quite a few at the HUBB meeting in Queensland.How many times did you bring up underarm bowling?hahaha.Nice shots as always.:D

Two Moto Kiwis 8 Nov 2013 22:03

Quote:

Originally Posted by Noel900r (Post 442732)
The wee strom seams to becoming a very popular bike quite a few at the HUBB meeting in Queensland.How many times did you bring up underarm bowling?hahaha.Nice shots as always.:D

Sold that bloody house yet :rofl:

Yeah Weestrom is a great touring option but just not quite there at least for us who venture a little further into the sticks, we would have pummeled the bashplate, oil filter and headers to pieces by now as they sit just a little low.

Mayas tummy has some good rashes now from angry rocks :oops2:

Underarm bowling .... that is like asking the Germans about the war :rofl::rofl:...he seemed like a nice guy so I didn't wonna beat em up :clap:

Two Moto Kiwis 8 Nov 2013 22:04

San Agustin To Cali
 
Having had my rock and tomb input more than satisfied we set off on the back road up and over the national park, some said their was no road and some said too dangerous so it immediately took our interest :D

This is the road for those interested

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...6at71455AM.png

Not only was it a heap shorter but it was so beautiful and was the closest thing to riding the Milford road in New Zealand :clap

The local Police were leaving to do their thing too so they all took off past us like a shower of shit two up on 250s and hangin it out around the corners ... the boyz were havin fun

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ali/file-1.jpg

Their race finished as they lined up to do their daily stuff

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Much like a lot of roads here it started on tarnac then to shingle but the surface was reasonable although rough in places, nearing mid point at the top at just uunder 3300 meters there was a 10 km stretch of new concrete which was a treat, midway along this part was the military checking every vehicle (not that there were many), they stopped us just for a chat with much interest in Maya but only curious as to the orange alien

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It started getting cold and ominous black clouds were looming and it wasn't too long before they caved in, the road surface was clay as well so we dropped our pace before we dropped the bike.

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Managing to keep the team upright the rain chased others and left us a damp road this being a bonus for no dust until we dropped down to about 2500 meters then back to normal

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Over the changing heights the moonscape around us changed offering all sorts, again we stopped just to take it in (and have a leak) :rofl

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Making it through to Popayan without getting killed was good (or I could not do this writeup) and it was hot as, a quick bite and onward to Cali and a tarseal cowboy blast up the pan-am .....something we try and avoid like the plague ormally but the road condition was great so it made for a relaxing hoon up the main drag

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Into Cali to Casa Blanca with Mrs.Garmin taking us to the door sucessfully, so nice to have prearranged accomodation rather than having to hunt it down

Mike had very kindly taken delivery of a pair of replacement boots and our new fuel pump at his Motolombia office which was bloody good, thanks mate really appreciated that.

Next mission was to swap over the fuel pump, should 3/4 hours work b u t the replacement was totally different meaning new brackets and hoses etc and some fabrication work needed

Again Mike to the rescue and he pointed us down the street to a laced called Astrurias and the owner Jorge who let me build some brackets, also did a couple of trips to the hardware store to get clamps etc

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...M/file-118.jpg

Sorry for the shit photos but you get the picture

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The result

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...M/file-124.jpg

Mission complete we were ready to ride, because I blew 3/4 day in Jorges man cave and talked with some of his mates and customers we stayed another night at the casa.

We meet Alain as well who is a wealth of knowledge and has many contacts in the motocircles throughout south america

We first got our atention caught looking at his bike seeing Gus and Geoffs sticker as well as Dan and Saras so immediately we had a comnnection.....their stickers now joined by TMK :D

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Alain, Ellen and Jorge and the sticker window

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Prior to this we had been contacted by another Jorge, a couchsurfer in the moto community in Cali so he and his friend came and visited us at the casa which was cool, he invited us to have lunch with his family the next day and to stay the night

Plan A was one night in Cali, Plan B redo fuel pump so one more night, Plan C stick around a little longer ...... why not .... no plans, no prob :clap

Noel900r 9 Nov 2013 08:28

Basil faulty
 
"mentioned the war once think i got away with it"
Nice little bit of fabrication on the fuel pump ,a weakness on africa Twins and Varadero's too.
Looks like a beautiful city you are now in.:thumbup1:
And NO i'm still the owner of the house.we need the sentiment to change and people to start spending again.

Two Moto Kiwis 9 Nov 2013 21:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by Noel900r (Post 443027)
"mentioned the war once think i got away with it"
Nice little bit of fabrication on the fuel pump ,a weakness on africa Twins and Varadero's too.
Looks like a beautiful city you are now in.:thumbup1:
And NO i'm still the owner of the house.we need the sentiment to change and people to start spending again.

Yeap pump worked out well in the end so happy it is working.

Is OZ down in the dumps a bit?

Two Moto Kiwis 9 Nov 2013 21:39

Caliantics Round 1
 
Jorge and Raul came and picked us up from the casa and we followed them back to Jorges parents house where we were given the celebrity welcome, Jorge had talked us up so we had to behave and be nice. :rofl

After an epic lunch the boys took us out for a hot chocolate with cheese....yes cheese, we did of course take the long way round and mum nature decided to step up the game a little.

The race was on

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The road turned to track turned to mud turned in lafter and good times, bearing in mind they both ride small roadies which was entertaining for us to follow but full cred neither went down despite several near misses :eek1

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The track was sloppy in places for the small motos

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Boys havin fun

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Stopping at a small restaurant was choco time, it was getting on to 6pm so nearly dark, being cold they have ponchos for the customers to wear, groovy outfits man we were locals

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We ordered hot chocos with cheese and plantano to share ...yeah

Proof of Chocolate and cheese "chocolate con queso"

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The plantano

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After chowing down we hit the road for home, we waited for the rain to stop but to no avail we just carried on.

Great day out an including a hooligan night ride through town zipping in and outa traffic with the little bikes, easy as with no luggage

Two Moto Kiwis 9 Nov 2013 21:53

Caliantics Round 2
 
The lake day

Started with a sleep in a big breaky to set us up for the day till lunchtime, a quick hoon around town to the local KTM shop, pick up girlie no 2 (Jorge rocks, new girl each day....onya mate)

Raul and his girlfriend joined us for lunch then the assault on the lake was on, Buenadventura being a no goer due to washouts, great thing is it gets fixed quickly but no good to us.

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We got wet....again.....and cold this time, Jorge has his impermiable jeans on, he got very wet so I lent him my wet pants (which were dry) as my klim gear was doing fine.

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Darien was the coffee stop warm up center, we got warm but the coffee was crap unanamously agreed by all.

As time was getting on (Note 7.00pm)((never ride in the dark))(((exceptt with local hooligans))) a descision was made to grabsome food in a small town, because we had the LEDs we went up front to guide the crew, reaching our almost destination it was established the bridge had been washed out so that was a no goer, plan b stop there and eat

Given we were 90km away from home we had quite the hoon home in the dark sifting our way through 10km of parked trucks, cars and buses partly due to a truck fail then down the main drag to Cali arriving home at 10 pm

On the way back we went to check out some local pussy :evil

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...li/file-66.jpg

So we broke all the rules and had a blast

Two Moto Kiwis 13 Nov 2013 01:38

Caliantics Round 4 - Rio Claro
 
Rio Claro was delayed slightly by rain but nonetheless we headed out after gearing up and the further we got in elevation and into the park the better it got.

The road however being the biggest challenge yet for the two smaller bikes on road rubber, even Maya was wriggling around a bit as it was hard clay with a wet top

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A couple of creek crossings proving to be fun for all and we made it all but to the end when one creek crossing was a little higher, being on Maya there was an unspoken request that we go first which was fair and they could gauge the depth

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It turned out to be only 300 - 400 deep but flowing fast enough to make it interesting for the lite bikes

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Finally reachng Rio Claro it was like having a small side trip to Africa, now bein blanco (white) I love dark .... suddenly I was surrounded with girlfriends much to Ellens amusement

My fav

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Six pack boys, beautiful girls .....out here in the middle of nowhere WTF, Jorge and Raul watching on in amusement too.

This time Maya not the subject of discussion but the whiteyfoo and the yella terra, they all wanted their photos with us and we with them .....totally awesome fun

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Leaving Africa and heading back into Colombia the road progressively got easier then back to the main drag to Rauls grandmothers place for lunch....more yummy fud

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Back to home base, a quick wonderwoman clothing change and off to the salsa festival in town, gezz talk about busy, on conclusion of that we had a quick interview with the TV asking what we thought of Cali and Colombia so that was cool ( so I thanked my supporters and asked for world peace and fud for all the children in Africa).

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The TV lady

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Una Chimba

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Raul on the left and Jorge on the right ... being so immature

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An evening stroll with a guided tour on the way home finished the day

Vid of the day

Cali ride - YouTube

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/65F4Cn8OhtA" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Two Moto Kiwis 14 Nov 2013 21:12

Cali To The Ecuador Border
 
A huge thanks to Raul and Jorge, you guys rock, you made Cali spectacular for us which was so cool.

Also a free punt for a good man https://www.facebook.com/pages/Touri...46931822073001

They have access to lots of touring stuff so you don't need to go without.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ng/file-88.jpg

Now we are back to reality, heading south to the border after enjoying just short of 3 months in what can only be described as an utterly awesome country and fantastic people.

Mike from Motolumbia gave us some interesting back roads to go on rather than just carve up the Pan Am and they were great taking us through small villages and military blockades ... they were kinda taken when they saw us.

From Cali we took the back road to Suarez and headed up and over the top passing the reservoir, in places the road was very boggy and kinda slippery and the views epic.

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The plan was to cross the road to Silvia but it was pissing down with no visibility and our road was shingle so we passed on it and sooked out down the last of the main drag.

Making it in to Popoyan we picked up our stuffed old fuel pump then continued south ending up at El Bordo for the night, not exactly a tourist trap but kinda cool.

Next day was only going to be a main drag blast, we decided to kick off the main drag and go via Policarpa, the road again had outstanding views and it was fookin hot.

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Arriving ALMOST in Policarpa our day changed completely, we were stopped by Militars who said not going any further .... the FARC were having some sorta scrap with the Colombian Feds so NO ONE was going through to the main road on the old 25.

This is what Policarpa looks like ... at least from a distance

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...es/file-18.jpg

So, now we were officially on the worlds most dangerous road (forget Bolivia), these guys were playing for keeps with local vehicles etc being stopped and searching everyone and emptying out car contents, .....us they were more concerned for our safety than us being a threat.

When the Police vehicle turned up from town they were also searched and checked the vehicle, the Militar guys then said we had to go back the way we came and that the Police vehicle would be only 5 minutes behind us and if we had trouble they will be there, normally we just brush off the “danger” bit but these guys on this day we talking a different language and were clearly not messing around so we heeded their warning with respect and turned around.

This is the one and only time in Colombia we thought yeap these guys are serious as well as curious, all other stops have been curiosity only (as well as their usual checkpoint stuff)

So back out and back down the Pan Am, I will add to that the Pan Am at this point is actually very nice as you ride through massive steep side valleys.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...es/file-25.jpg

Pasto, that is where we ended up for the night, great chips.

Next on the agenda was the famous Las Lajas church just out of Ipiales built across the river, it was only a short ride for the day and we ended up staying right in the small township looking down on the BIG waterfall (yes there is a BIG waterfall Geoff) and the church.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...jas/file-1.jpg

We spent the afternoon there hovering around and relaxing, interesting several people have had trouble getting GPS there, we also pushed SPOT clocking in and that failed to so there are some confirmed dead spots around even in the open.

The church is a spectacular bit of work and well worth the visit, accommodation was $9 for the two of us including hot water and a comfy bed, Maya had her own 20 meter x 7 meter vinyled floor room to stay in.

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The border, so yes the time came to finally say goodbye to Colombia and after spending just shy of 3 months there I wanted to spend another 3 months but the next corner is calling as well as a new country.

Farewell Colombia and Colombians, we had expectations of Colombia having been pumped up by fello travellers and it exceeded all expectations ....Colombia is even more dangerous than Mexico, Guatemala and El Salvador for not wanting to leave ....

Gipper 15 Nov 2013 07:29

Great reading, though its always hard to say what was the 'best' part of a trip, for me & Lisa, Colombia was certainly a big highlight, friendly helpful people, fantastic landscapes and everyone is Moto Crazy :scooter: what more do you need?

Good Job Kids, looking forward to the next installment....

Enjoy it, cos here in Canada the roads are snow covered - Poor old Sammy is looking over my shoulder at the photos of Maya riding those great roads in Colombia and is VERY jealous....

.http://i834.photobucket.com/albums/z...ps5a5851fc.jpg

Two Moto Kiwis 15 Nov 2013 14:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gipper (Post 443669)
Great reading, though its always hard to say what was the 'best' part of a trip, for me & Lisa, Colombia was certainly a big highlight, friendly helpful people, fantastic landscapes and everyone is Moto Crazy :scooter: what more do you need?

Good Job Kids, looking forward to the next installment....

Enjoy it, cos here in Canada the roads are snow covered - Poor old Sammy is looking over my shoulder at the photos of Maya riding those great roads in Colombia and is VERY jealous....]

Heya Grif ... now ya how I felt reading your stuff from my office ... payback time :D

Great to see Sammy enjoying the warmth, don't water the water in the radiator freezing :rofl:

We have yet to get to Peru and Bolivia but hey I can't wait either.

Cheers man

Two Moto Kiwis 15 Nov 2013 14:51

It seems the equator was too hot for our house which caught fire at 3.30 am yesterday morning in New Zealand.

We have the house rented which is helping pay for our trip so we are on a diminishing timeline for when +/- equal is equal and we will have to go back home to work.

Thankfully the smoke alarms went off and our tenants were unharmed and a quick call to the fire service saw them turn up and extinguish the fire.

The cause of the fire is yet to be determined officially.

So, given the yellow pipe is the main gas feed in we consider ourselves extremely lucky there were no deaths and we still have a home to go to cos if that had burnt through it would have changed everyone's day :eek1

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This is literally 1 meter from where Maya will live :eek1

Noel900r 19 Nov 2013 09:14

Geeze ! close call or what?Hope repairs can be made quickly.
Aussie economy is not too bad but up here in the coal fields ,the market has gone down ,so i just have to ride things out .
Great photo's,remarkable scenery .Regards Noel:D

Two Moto Kiwis 19 Nov 2013 22:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by Noel900r (Post 444053)
Geeze ! close call or what?Hope repairs can be made quickly.
Aussie economy is not too bad but up here in the coal fields ,the market has gone down ,so i just have to ride things out .
Great photo's,remarkable scenery .Regards Noel:D

Heya mate, yeah close call alright, coulda been a lot worse so we were lucky eh.

Don't be giving ya pad away after after all your hard work.

Two Moto Kiwis 19 Nov 2013 22:20

Ecuador .. Finally The Middle, The Border To Quito
 
Ecuador The Border To Quito

Arriving at the border we did the usual formalities, we also meet another couple of two weestroms which was cool, just on two hours we were set and on our way, again into a new country so having to relearn everything about it in a hurry.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...can/file-1.jpg

Guess who had been here before us

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We did a huge day of 17 km and settled in Tulcan for the night to get feet on the ground and suss out costs etc.

From Tulcan we went coastal enjoying a great ride through Ecuadorian jungle and heading to San Lorenzo, San Lorenzo wouldn’t be classed as a tourist stop but interesting none the less.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...4at64833PM.png

On the way they were doing massive road works, three diggers perched up on hillside just throwing bucket after bucket down, spectacular stuff, we sat on the road watching it for 40 minutes

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The ride down the coast line was good sweeping through lush jungle and out to barren desert like areas, turning inland we headed for Quito to find out the lowdown on Ecuador from the lads at Freedom Rentals.

The very kindly spotted us a Tee shirt each and a key ring for Maya so now I have two formal going out shirts ... flash as Michael Jackson :rofl

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...to/file-17.jpg

We bunked down at Casa Helbling in Quito, what a great place that is with real Wifi and proper hot water and very very nice hosts.

We kicked around in Quito taking the city in, old town was beautiful.

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Next up was Papallacta thermal pools.:clap

Two Moto Kiwis 19 Nov 2013 22:45

Quito To Papallacta
 
Bailing out of Quito we headed firstly to the equator to see the 0000000 on the GPS, we then did a u turn heading out to Papallacta, the road was stunning seeing us climbing to 4100 meters.

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Being the Pan Am it is also like a race track, a nice change from lumps and rocks.

See what we had to put up with, mind you it was only about 8 degs too :eek1

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...cta/file-8.jpg

Papallacta, thermal pool area and stunning, the hotel we stayed at sits at 3300 meters and has a set with a mountainous backdrop.

This came highly recommended by fello adventurer Hektoglider and he was bang on!:clap

Plug this in and it will get you to the front door, you will NOT regret it.:evil

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Staying there two nights we walked and relaxed in the hot pools, 2 days of decadence, on the second day we were going to head into the park but a big digger cut a culvert size trench right across the road so there was no way through.

Once at location there are walks to do in stunning backdrops and in the bush

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Take the time out it is a great place to relax :clap

Two Moto Kiwis 19 Nov 2013 23:17

Oyachachi Road
 
Here we are back to our old ways of wanting to look around the next corner and the lure of a gravel road winding its way into Gods back yard and disappearing into a vale the fog was too much, as luck would have it the digger had filled the road in so we carried on past the thermal resort and through the first gates, up to the next station 4 km up, the Police were there so we waved and carried on looking very authoritative, they waved back like this guy -> :wave.

It was only a little wet

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Up to the lake ... pics, Police passed us, we caught up with the Police and followed them into Oyacachi, we continued down to roads end which was 24 km from the main drag.

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BIG rains had demolished the road and the river wiped out the lot.

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One digger and big bully parked there slowly making the road again but no bueno today :cry

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We turned around and went back a few km, 2.6 km outa town are Cabins so we bunked down there the night.

The cabins were being run by an 8 year old girl and a 13 year old boy as mum and dad were away and not back till the following night.

Fire lighter No 1

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And her bro

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...oad/file-7.jpg

We managed trade breakfast for tea, they run a trout farm so it was trout, rice, chips and salad all prepared by the young fella and his younger sister, talk about top notch.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...oad/file-9.jpg

This was followed up by sitting in front of an open fire watching Motorcycle Diaries ... good times. :clap

The sun rose and we rode back, the construction crew placing pipework in for water for Qutio saw 200 - 300 women and men hand digging and laying pipework at around 4000 meters.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ad/file-55.jpg

Some pics from the lake at mid point

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...oad/file-2.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ad/file-11.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ad/file-10.jpg

Getting back to the rangers point the chain was across the road, Ellen hops off and drops the chain, the park ranger comes out not sure what to do, we say buenos (hello) and fit the chain back up and ride off with an authoritative smile and wave as he did back and everybody was happy. :clap

Mr Park ranger was not sure what to do at all with a big orange alien with bright eyes and some people who "seemed" to know what they were doing so we just carried that through and it worked, we were however armed with toffee lollies if needed.:rofl

To say this park is stunning is an understatement, we stood there at the lake just taking the place in, it is one of those secluded quiet places that pulls the heart strings letting you know you really are alive.

Noel900r 21 Nov 2013 19:54

G'day Andi/Ellen
 
Some remarkable country you are travelling through.nice you could have a mini holiday on your holiday,hahahaa
No i will not be giving the house away no matter how frustrating .
Anyhow as always your devoted follower ,haha
Noel:D

Two Moto Kiwis 29 Nov 2013 01:33

Quote:

Originally Posted by Noel900r (Post 444383)
Some remarkable country you are travelling through.nice you could have a mini holiday on your holiday,hahahaa
No i will not be giving the house away no matter how frustrating .
Anyhow as always your devoted follower ,haha
Noel:D

Heya Noeldevotedfollowerno1

Yes bit quiet on the ground if you didn't reply.

Anyway, all good and yes Ecuador has some pretty cool stuff and you get up to some great heights, today we were riding at 4860 meters so 1100 meters above Mt Cook in New Zealand at 3754 meters :thumbup1:

Two Moto Kiwis 29 Nov 2013 01:34

Oyacachi Road To Banos
 
Heading back to reality and down the main drag our ride took us through Beaza and on down to Tena for the night.

We had heard various things about Tena but to be honest it was a stopover only point with Banos in mind for us.

They do however have a cool bridge across to river at the confluence of two rivers .... that was Tena.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/.../Tena/file.jpg

The moon through the cables

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ena/file-6.jpg

With Banos in sight we headed down the black top, a coupla small welcomed showers cooled us nicely before heading up to Banos.

Wasn’t long and we were sorted for acomm and taking the place in, it is a little more touristy than normal which is a nice change after mucking around in the sticks.

Plenty to do there and a very nice place to kick back for a few days ... which we managed to do.

While there we ran into the Canadian hooligans Robert and Marrylou again, we met them at Papallacta hot springs so that was cool.

We made a sad attempt to buy wine but NOT on a Sunday there ... lucky the hotel did, four bottles of red later and the rum gone we walked home at just before 1.00am in the pissing rain ... it was awesome.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...os/file-47.jpg

While walking back we were the only ones on the street until four local lads piled out of a doorway and started dancing and hooharring in the street in the heavy rain before dropping the only clothing they were wearing (gruds) and doing a noody dash up the street ... it was so funny.:rofl

We took the time to take in Banos, including the hike around the back of town and a well deserved and good coffee overlooking town.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...os/file-18.jpg

Banos being in the valley allows you to climb to great heights on both sides of the valley, unfortunately the volcano did not play with us and was a little camera shy, can't win em all.

Given this was our tourist week we did several things locally,

The cable car over the river to a waterfall

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...nos/file-3.jpg

Sat with some amigos .. they were a bit quiet and standoffish :huh

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...os/file-38.jpg

Given banos kinda means bathroom and it is a long drop to to town ... well :evil

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...os/file-45.jpg

Took Marylou and Robert for a small ride on Maya

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...os/file-32.jpg

Rode the old road

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...os/file-17.jpg

Ellen took a photo of a waterfall filling up a church ... should be full by now :rofl

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...os/file-78.jpg

Had lunch beside a river :clap

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...os/file-25.jpg

Next up .. to man who has ridden who has ridden the Americas on a KTM 525 EXC ....

Noel900r 1 Dec 2013 08:02

G'day guy's ,laughed at the bano's,thought isn't that toilet?.
I'm sure plenty of people look at your stuff ,but enjoy without comment.
So is it humid?Just been out riding ,decided to go find roads to nowhere,you know the ones you drive past that disappear into a dead end eventually ,A bit hot but good to get out amongst it.Anyhow until next time ,Y.D.F signing off.
Regards Noel:D

Two Moto Kiwis 2 Dec 2013 22:47

Quote:

Originally Posted by Noel900r (Post 445417)
G'day guy's ,laughed at the bano's,thought isn't that toilet?.
I'm sure plenty of people look at your stuff ,but enjoy without comment.
So is it humid?Just been out riding ,decided to go find roads to nowhere,you know the ones you drive past that disappear into a dead end eventually ,A bit hot but good to get out amongst it.Anyhow until next time ,Y.D.F signing off.
Regards Noel:D

Yeah a Bano is a toilet ... but Banos mean bath but yes a bloody Kiwi taking advantage of language :innocent:

Humid, no not too bad to be honest, bit sticky at the coast and 35 - 40 degs, we are in rainy season so there is more cloud around which is a blessing for sure.

We love the "wonder where that goes approach" and pretty much that is what we do ... it always works out .. sometime not cool others beyond coolness :D

Two Moto Kiwis 3 Dec 2013 01:57

18 Months On The Loose!!!
 
....loose units.. :eek1


Things I Have Learnt

Macro makes things look bigger :D

Medellin, Colombia has something in their water :eek1

If it is not raining it is fine :evil

Colombia rocks :clap

Birthdays abroad are fun cos you have no idea who is coming to your party. :freaky

Little bikes are bloody good for scouting around in the backyard of a country. :deal

Colombians are like Kiwis :wink:

Maya is a seriously cool piece of kit and gives me wood when I start her :rofl

If you are in unsure territory act like you own it. :norton

Helpful people don’t work at border crossings. :huh

Having been on the road now for 18 months we have had a chance to use gear and find out what does or does not work.

We have had a great run from some products while others have fallen by the wayside disappointingly fast considering the money we have outlaid on them buying “quality” stuff.

It does leave a question whether you buy one expensive unit to “hopefully” last or buy a cheap arse unit knowing it will crap out but for half the price you can get a new one again.

For me I have always preferred the quality item “first cost be your last”, now I am not so sure and particularly when you are away from the point of purchase warranty is a word you don’t hear very often.

My Klim riding gear is still fantastic and despite being down a few times etc is standing up incredibly well which I am thankful for.

The ARAIs, nothing more to say other than mint but my fluro has notably turned yello in the Central American/South American sun, no worries just two toned now!!. :rofl

My boots and Ellens boots are standing up to it, Ellen replacement pants after her crash are crap but she is making do with them, in hindsight we should have repaired her first gear pants which were superior.

Our Jesses, there is NOTHING better for two up long distance adventure touring for ease of storage, lock-ability, capacity etc, now if we need to leave the bike we simply unclip our Wolfman tank bag and take it with us, everything else is locked and sorted, huge thanks to Al Jesse and the crew you guys rock.

...but don't take our word for it check them out for yourself Welcome to Jesse Luggage Systems

Noting else outlandish this time round, life has been great despite one or two speed bumps, Central America and now South America are fantastic despite all the nasty reports you hear, we wish we had spent more time in Honduras after finding out retrospectively that over half the Police force had been sacked for corruption crap now they are trying to clean their act up because of the loss of tourists and travellers, we fall directly into that basket .

Everywhere we have been, bad areas and good areas there are normal people living normal lives doing their daily thing and for the majority, 99.9% of their interest in us is genuine curiosity, not hostility.

We have been in only a couple of instances where we have felt maybe slightly uncomfortable but nothing more, our closest shave we were sent back by the Militars at Policarpa for our own safety, heeding those warnings and doing everything else per normal the most danger in a normal day is mossie bites....cos they itch. :eek1

Thus far we have been ripped off three times, all USA based,

1: Ipad 2, 3 weeks old in the university of Fairbanks library :cry
2: Alfred Lamarrie, fello trusted ADVer (translates to wanker) Re Maya from Portland Maine :baldy:baldy
3: Wells Fargo USA bank, holding $930 of our money on a fraudulent transaction made in a different country to which we were in. :huh :huh

Not throwing a slant on the USA but pointing out the bad shit that has happened has not been Central America or South America thus far, this may not be the norm but this is what has happened to us.

The Colombia Some Up

Still unfairly tarnished by its history Colombia is as safe as houses, the people are warm and inviting and to be fair the nicest people we have met across the board, as you guys know we have met incredible people (and I say this outside of the ADV circles so normal humans) so we don’t say it lightly.

I found it a little unusual at first thinking “WTF do you want” but all they want is to know, how many cylinders, how fast does it go and how big is the engine, they ask where from /where to so we show them our Horizons Unlimited world map (picture worth 1000 words)((2000 in Spanish)) and this is met with amusement and amazement along with respect, give them the time to chat and share with them and you give them a face full of smiles to walk away with.....that IS a cool feeling of being on the ground with the locale. :clap

The funniest event for me was Puerto Berrio having the crowd fill and block the street and the police thinking there was a pub scrap or riot on, Ellen thought the same cos she could not see me in the tide of people, simply interested and amazed curious Colombians, obviously not something they see everyday, no animosity whatsoever. :clap

Not much more to add other than WOW, R2R were great to deal with, Salvi and Paola from Bogota are fantastic people and are very proud of their country and rightfully so, they single handedly made a huge impact on our trip and for the good.

Mike at Motolomnia also helped us out, Raul and Jorge in Cali took night riding to a new degree :rofl which was cool.

There is a certain vigilantly hooliganism in Colombia I find very attractive, a little unruliness that you can do daily and get away with ... just little things that our law men in New Zealand don’t see the funny side of.

For the most it is just a little more freedom without getting busted for simple things and this is very refreshing.

Would I recommend Colombia, no cos I want it for myself ..... the real answer is get off the Stahlratte, buy 3 months insurance and get ya 90 day VISA and start loving Colombia, there are certain places you know you will be back too, Guatemala for Julios good cooking is one, El Salvador to Marios for good cooking is another, Colombia for big boobies (I mean nice people and landscapes) in Medellin is another. :evil

The Heart Speaks

Not very crunchie this time.

Since riding two up our personal space has shrunk which actually needs extra care and patience each day as you can’t just sail off and do your own thing ... to a point anyway.

I would have to say that NOT looking in my mirrors worrying about Ellen has made life easier for my mind, now I just have to watch for crazy South Americans whose first road rule is there are none, first in first served.

Having crammed two onto one and house and contents proved hard for me as I am not a big dude so our decision to send camping gear home was tossed around a lot, pros and cons considered.

We sent camping gear home and took 9kg off the bike and off the top of the bike which made a hell of difference allowing us easier access to more difficult places with less concern, I am still mindful we are on a tall bike with a bit of weight, I have not been over a weigh bridge but I reckon two up, fully gassed up with luggage we would have to be 400kg ..... much to the detriment of the dog than ran under the bike and didn’t get back up.:eek1

Maya plus or minus is sorted with only normal wear and tear items and a few fails of items that crap out over time, mileage and torture, she has become my favourite bike of all time over 40 motos in 34 years of owning motos.:clap

So although some interests have changed slightly I am still the same old Andi, I don’t think I will be taking up extreme crochet knitting or anything really exciting like that, in fact my passion for motos, Maya being No 40 (but No1) over 34 years of riding is only stronger and I feel the inspiration to build a street tracker when home ... always gotta have something to tinker with.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ers/file-1.jpg

Ellen .. same same :D

Still the support pillar and sushi maker extraordinaire, although there have been ups and downs, swear words etc life continues to be good for both of us.

Overall

Nothing much more to add other than 18 months in our trip has gotten better, one or two speed bumps like the fire in our garage at home and the shite that went down with Maya, probably coulda done without broken ribs too.

A huge thanks to all who have had input to our travels, everyone makes a donation of time and energy which adds up to good times and great experiences, great experiences don’t always have to be great at the time but on reflection you get to see the light of day and how things unfold.

As we have said before, when shit happens so does good, it is a funny thing but it always works out sometime despite being between a rock and three hard places.

There are of coarse always a few pissoffs, barking dogs, dogs that simply go for motos and the biggy, the ****EN car alarms, the wanker who made them needs to be tormented for 24 hours solid of the ding dong ding dong shit before being shot in public....then I will feel better :rofl

It is incredible the needless noise pollution that comes from these and it is unreal the amount that just sit there and go on and on.

The noise from and including Mexico south is unreal, small shops with BIG speakers all trying to outdo each other, also in residential areas they do they same ... who has the biggest speakers, add to that the car cruising down the street with loud speakers advertising shit, some days you feel mentally hammered just from the noise....no wonder we love mountain passes etc to get away from that. :clap

I must also thank our resident favourite Ozzie (oxymoron) Geoff, seasoned traveller and good bastid, thanks for your bits of travel advice, instant IT fixes etc and just general support from prior day 1, we will come to OZ to personally thank you, might even bring some Kiwi reds from home if you continue to be a good boy.

No more words from me, we love having you guys along, feel free to chime in, give us shit, tell us how to improve or simply share your shenanigans with us as it makes us feel like we are not talking to thin air and it gives us a cool insight to what you guys are up to while we are tormenting South America.

This ride report isn’t just about us but all who are involved ... yes that is you!!! :clap

Thanks and love to all of our extended families across the Americas :clap and the dodgy travellers we have crossed paths with along the way.

Andi & Ellen

troos 4 Dec 2013 05:00

Thanks for sharing, it is a wonderfull story to follow. Keep the updates going :thumbup1:

norschweger 6 Dec 2013 17:56

great writing, like always! and again I recognize myself in your descriptions.
Are you not asked very often: cuanto vale esa moto? If this is the first question I do not really respond, This kinda pisses me off. Last time I even explained why. Not sure if he understood.
At the hotsprings in Papallacta (the one where no other tourist goes), after a nice chat with a whole family, the woman said something about gringo. So I asked her why she says this after having tried to explain to her where Germany (or at least Europe) is (yes, many people do not have an idea and barely know which continent they are on)...her response: plata (money). So I try it again, that I am neither american nor does this fact have anything to do with wealth.
I wonder how you feel about that!? I mean, of course we are RICH in comparison to many others who are struggeling every day but of course we have worked hard, saved money, taken sacrifices...sometimes hard to handle I think.

Keep the good spirit up and hopefully we finally meet each other in some weeks and stop chasing each other : )
beer

Two Moto Kiwis 6 Dec 2013 19:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by troos (Post 445776)
Thanks for sharing, it is a wonderfull story to follow. Keep the updates going :thumbup1:

Thanks man, it is thoroughly enjoyable for us for sure ... even the not so good things are only little in the scheme of things ... updates .. for sure :thumbup1:

Two Moto Kiwis 6 Dec 2013 19:15

:funmeterno:
Quote:

Originally Posted by norschweger (Post 446096)
great writing, like always! and again I recognize myself in your descriptions.
Are you not asked very often: cuanto vale esa moto? If this is the first question I do not really respond, This kinda pisses me off. Last time I even explained why. Not sure if he understood.
At the hotsprings in Papallacta (the one where no other tourist goes), after a nice chat with a whole family, the woman said something about gringo. So I asked her why she says this after having tried to explain to her where Germany (or at least Europe) is (yes, many people do not have an idea and barely know which continent they are on)...her response: plata (money). So I try it again, that I am neither american nor does this fact have anything to do with wealth.
I wonder how you feel about that!? I mean, of course we are RICH in comparison to many others who are struggeling every day but of course we have worked hard, saved money, taken sacrifices...sometimes hard to handle I think.

Keep the good spirit up and hopefully we finally meet each other in some weeks and stop chasing each other : )
beer

Yes lots ask the question, I just play down the value now.

We get (well I do with my blonde/silvering hair) the gringo thing and even some snide sorta treatment, when we say Nueva Zelandia the whole conversation lifts, some have it bad against the yanks although most don't know where New Zealand is anyway .. .so we add Australia ...there reply is argh Austria ...so we just smile :D

They view us as seriously wealthy, they don't see us as working class people who worked their arses off and sold a bunch of shit to get there .. never mind all part of the deal.

And yes meeting, finally ...where do you wonna have Christmas in Peru?

Some nice mountainous village with good fud and lotsa grog would suit fine ... ouwh and some petrol. :thumbup1:

Two Moto Kiwis 6 Dec 2013 19:16

Banos To Ambato To Quilotoa To Ambato
 
With fame we stay.... :clap

The famous Don Julio the great, 525 rider extraordinaire, ridden South America and North America on a KTM 525 EXC on the factory block of wood seat ...dude is a legend.

Julio invited us to stay, we gratefully accepted and took the back road through to Ambato, a nice alternate to the main road being not as busy.

The are bonuses like this small gorge

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...to/file-10.jpg

Mum and Dad Ambato .... out for tea with cool hats

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ato/file-6.jpg

It just had to be done :D

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ato/file-2.jpg

A quick inspection on Maya revealed we had lost our joining link clip so we were extremely lucky it did not come off as a 525 size chain bailing off would be sure to wreck things ... no prob getting a new one sorted, Julio and I ... men at work :evil

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ato/file-1.jpg

While at Ambato we made an attempt to get up to Chimborazo however we arrived in a shroud of cloud and fog rendering our accent useless for the day.

Heading north our next attempt was Quilotoa, on the way we pulled up behind another moto but with twin pipes, heading up the hills he was doing 85 - 90 kmhr so I figured it was not a small bike, we turned off, filled with petrol and headed to Quilotoa, arriving there sorting out our accom he rolls up, I point to our place and he rides over.

A quick spanish chat and I established he is an Ozzie, howdy neighbour, Joe then clocks into the place we are at then off to lunch we go, the afternoon filled in with a hike to the bottom of the crater lake which is 400 meters vertical so hard on the ol knees on the way down and hard on the ol ticker on the way up.:D

The three lads, Joe, Con? and me

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...oa/file-49.jpg

Joes bike and Maya parked in the restaurant

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...toa/file-5.jpg

I will add at this point we are at 4000 meters or 4 km or 13124 ft above stress level or 300 meters higher than Mount Cook in New Zealand (the highest point) so the oxygen in thinning quickly, this is now the highest place we have slept and the first night was difficult waking every couple of minutes and me saying breath Andi breath...remember you learnt that when you were young.

So we have no been hiking higher than the highest point in New Zealand :clap

The following day was a hike around the crater with a Frenchie, Ozzie, Kiwi, Chinese and Belgiuminite so we had the world covered, the hike was 4 hours and was a harder than we all anticipated, we all thought it to be a walk in the park but the hill climbs were high.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...oa/file-36.jpg

Us ... but you knew that :rofl

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...oa/file-33.jpg

On completion of our stay Ozzie Joe was heading to Cotopaxi to climb the monster and we wanted to go to see it so we travelled together.

The road out of Quilotoa, from this

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...oa/file-58.jpg

To this

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...oa/file-71.jpg

Arriving at the Cotopaxi national park they said no motos.....not even to the restaurant or hostal....wtf :huh we are not there to tear off into the park and wreck it but no way they would let us in, the discussion getting heated at one point so for us it was back to Ambato and Joe to Quito

Joe trying to reason with Starsky and Hutch from the park ... no bueno!!:cry

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...oa/file-84.jpg

Returning to Ambato was a quick spin down the Panam back to Don (sir) Julios ....we arrived at rip hour .... whose dumb idea was that!!!:lol3

Getting sorted in Ambato we finally said goodbye to Mum and Dad and our new brother Julio, we now have extended family throughout the world and all colours.

I huge thanks to Juilo and family making us feel welcome and great being involved at the family level ... our casa is your casa, it would be great to see you guys in New Zealand.

Two Moto Kiwis 6 Dec 2013 22:00

Chimborazo - Size DOES Matter
 
When you see this you know you are in for a treat

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...orazo/file.jpg

Ellen thought she would compliment the mountain...

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...azo/file-1.jpg

Chimborazo, highest point above the center of the earth, because of the egg shape of earth the top of Chimborazo is jn fact the highest point on earth or the closest point to the sun, we rode up to 4860 meters , New Zealands highest point is Mount Cook which is 3754 meters so we were riding 1106 meters higher than the highest point in New Zealand :clap

Poor ol maya was down to about 20 hp, at the carpark she didnt have enough grunt to get out of the soft volcanic sand and up the carpark very easily so that is where she stayed for her photography session.

Getting closer, we did well timing wise as only 10 minutes after we arrived she disappeared under a vale of fog

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...zo/file-17.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...zo/file-15.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...azo/file-6.jpg

We were here

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...zo/file-22.jpg

At

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...zo/file-27.jpg

Or for you imperialists

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...zo/file-28.jpg

Few locals milling around, allamaring really :wink:

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...zo/file-29.jpg

Accomplishing the highest point on our trip, the highest point we have ever been on land and the highest point we have ever slept at (other than that just anther normal day:rofl) before headed for the lowlands going coastal for a change ...at sea level so a 4860 meter variable for the ol bod.

Firstly tho we stopped at the famous zig zag train track however the price had gone up from $6 for 8am-2.30pm trip to $25 for 2 hours .... one thing is gringo prices but that set a new level, $50 bucks was too fat for our budget so we went coastal

This came with navigational difficulties as I was gonna take a shortcut .... yeah

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...azo/file-9.jpg

Bridge too small for the bike, river a tad lumpy ... small backtrack required :D

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...zo/file-10.jpg

Spotting a back road we disappeared into the hills then down onto the plains, now we were back into jungle again and shabby towns, our destination for the night Las Americas ....not sure whose idea than was, wouldn't call it a tourist trap :rofl.

Contacting the mad Canadians we discovered they were at the seaside town we were looking to go to, that sorted that out so destination Puerto Lopez was set for the next day.

Noel900r 7 Dec 2013 02:44

Some of the best photo's you've taken,what a remarkable place.Until next time
Y.D.F Noel:D:D

Two Moto Kiwis 10 Dec 2013 00:37

Quote:

Originally Posted by Noel900r (Post 446137)
Some of the best photo's you've taken,what a remarkable place.Until next time
Y.D.F Noel:D:D

Thank you sir, yes it is incredible to say the least, snow near the equator.:freezing:

Its all down hill from here!!! :Beach:

Two Moto Kiwis 10 Dec 2013 00:39

La Troncal To Puerto Lopez To Playas
 
Going down on things....

Well, the ride down to the lowlands was nothing to write home about other than when we were in the mountains and we pretty much had the road to ourselves, it was so peaceful and a time to be admired, once on the flats were we inundated by trucks and buses and clouds of half burnt diesel coupled with hot and sticky ... almost like being back in Cuba!! ... except we were riding this time.

La Troncal ... yeah, had a nice shower, the only fun part was upsetting a guy who wanted to drive through me where I was parked rather than go just behind me and into the gate, yes you could have fitted a bus through there be head didn’t wonna do that.... he got angry and tooted etc so I just smiled and made him more angry, the hotel guy came out and gave him a right royal serve. :clap

Again I am no expert in Spanish but I understood clearly the hotel guy was not happy with the dickhead being very arrogant and told him to go around like a normal person ... which he did .... while I smiled.:lol3

That was La Troncal.

Sooooo, next day the gumball rally begin, gezz I hate main roads, we had one guy pull out to pass and he kept coming like we were invisible despite the LEDs in has face and we had to dive off the road to avoid being taken out head on ...wanker. :eek1

Once off the main drag heading down the coast the pace and stress levels dropped thankfully.

Puerto Lopez, Marylou and Rob were staying there so we dropped into their hotel per instructions to find they shifted to a much cheaper place and in town.

Suited us and they left more instructions, riding into town they found us easily ... only one big moto rolling into town with two big smiling faces .... being drunkards on level three they yelled out ...too easy:rofl.

We found some reasonably priced accommodation and Maya was parked out the back with the chooks and turkeys, we covered Maya in case they decided she was a good vantage point to shit from. :huh

Hanging with the dodgy Canadian we walked, relaxed, talked shit, drunk grog and ate ... as ya do.

Also took in the national park at the sulpher pools and gettin caked in mud ... awesome, this girl took a picture with us, ellen a got a picture of her with mud on her face :evil.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ez/file-10.jpg

Me, Ellen, Marrylou and Rob ... luvin it.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...pez/file-1.jpg

The sulfur pool, neat spot.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...pez/file-7.jpg

Down at the beach ... kids having fun

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...pez/file-4.jpg

Hitting the road south we headed out to La Libertard then back out and on our way to Playas.

Talking a side road created some amusement and was much nicer that 4 lane race track fighting for space with buses and trucks, down near to sea edge was a bit airy as there were 40ft shipping containers all painted yellow saying private property keep out (in Spanish) and we wondered what was so precious out in a desert area...one wonders??.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...nca/file-7.jpg

Lots of dry creek crossings

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ca/file-12.jpg

Lots of these containers ... :huh

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ca/file-16.jpg

Arriving at Playas we clocked into our hotel which was one street off the beach and only $10 for the two of us including parking, wifi, own shower and all...cool, Playas is a very locals place thus I was pretty much the only whiteyfoo there.

After having cerviche in Puerto Lopez and being in a seaside town we decided to have it here too .... well we were at the end of the day and no one else was there and the lady was overly keen ....should have known at that point.

First off she delivered a very half portion ... I said come on the picture shows this and you are trying to give us this so she took it back and two minutes later it was per the picture ,... and I suspect by the way my guts felt later it was complete with the days floor scrapings, later that night all hell broke loose, I could have shat through the eye of a needle from 5 meters away.:puke1

That left me feeling very second hand the next day not to mention dehydrated and frail, we are now religiously sticking to our rule, no one in the place we are NOT going there, a place packed full of locals is a sure bet to a great feed for a good price and the risk of getting the shits from higher turnover places is greatly reduced.

Being off shade didn’t stop the hardened travellers tho .... nah .... onwards and upwards..... destination Machala for the night.

Two Moto Kiwis 10 Dec 2013 01:01

Playas To Machala To Cuenca
 
So feeling like crap but still able to ride we set to first through Guayaquil, Ecuadors biggest city, if I hadn’t bummed our turn up we would have been through faster than a dutchman chasing a dollar bill in the wind ....but I thought a city tour was in order ...yeah. :evil

No dramas down the road other than boredom from a straight road and a dodgy guts, we did however manage to find a neat shortcut out to the sea, we shoulda stayed at the little village as it was quite nice but we punched on to Machala as we needed wifi and to be honest a touch of air con or a good fan and a nice bed was in order for yee ol sick one.

See the bottle made from bottles advertising no biffing rubbish

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ca/file-23.jpg

Very basic wee fishing village

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ca/file-24.jpg

My wish was fulfilled and was well earned, surprising what a few home comforts when you need em can make a huge difference ... actually just not trying to sleep on the toilet makes the biggest difference. :rofl

Machala itself surprised us with its size and it is a modern town

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ca/file-26.jpg

Interesting when the tide came in during the afternoon the storm water sumps were flowing back onto the street creating a flood on the streets.

A lite snack of fries and a bottle of 7 up to settle the mid then bed for the oldies.

The road from Machala to Cuenca bought a whole new feel to the place as we had gone from jungle to mountains to beaches to desert in two days and had ridden down from 4860 meters to see level.

The mountain desert road

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ca/file-32.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ca/file-33.jpg

A solitary plastic bag racing us down the road ... we won :evil

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ca/file-35.jpg

Destination Cuenca, we were on course to meet with Luis, Janette and family, amigos of Julio in Ambato.

On arriving there was an audience and welcoming comity, a rider Alfonzo (Pocho) from Colombia, a couple Garston and Luciana from Argentina and Luis and family.

We were welcomed in and given lunch and shown to our room, very nice indeed.

Two Moto Kiwis 13 Dec 2013 02:57

Cuenca ... Town Of Surprises
 
Being big towns aren't totally our gig we have found some surprise in Central and South American towns.

A walk around Cuenca in the afternoon we had a small list of stuff we wanted to do including getting more insurance which was due to run out, we did a visit to the KTM shop looking for a replacement horn but the atmosphere was cool there, although we were not expecting red carpet some help would have been welcomed...never mind it is just a horn.

Las Cajas National park just out of Cuenca with hiking etc was our next mission, again up at 4000 meters our fitness was improving with every breath we tried to take.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ca/file-16.jpg

Many lakes and tarns grace the park

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ca/file-18.jpg

There are weird "red trees' that are buckled

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ca/file-22.jpg

Stunning scenery again was served up in the intermissions of cloud. fog and occasional rain unveiling the true beauty that Ecuador hides on the top shelf.

We were there.:clap

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ca/file-29.jpg

While there we took in Cuena town as well as enjoying a very nice coffee at a gringo cafe (nice to have these luxuries every few weeks), Cuenca itself is a very nice city and by comparison very easy to get in and out of.

The Panama hat museum was in order to to see how the hats were made.

As you can see this lady has a nice hats....:evil

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ca/file-33.jpg

All shapes and colours

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ca/file-38.jpg

A hat forming machine

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ca/file-32.jpg

That evening Garston (a chief from Argentina) prepped and cooked up a big bar b que which involved drinking and lies ..as well as some BMX stunts on the top deck....good times.

...a balanced diet :D

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ca/file-51.jpg

A chiefs talent

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ca/file-52.jpg

Luis and I showing our appreciation

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ca/file-68.jpg

Janette is also a bombero (firefighter) so all the girls had a trip to the fire station for a photo session ....they have some pretty cool kit there.

These are BIG trucks :eek1

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ca/file-65.jpg

We tried to leave the next day and were told off ... we had to stay or there would be trouble, no prob, we don’t wonna be naughty at our age as that is seen as irresponsible :eek1:eek1 so Ellen reciprocated and made sushi that night for the gathering....again this went down like a treat.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ca/file-74.jpg

Some cool and interesting people to, Pocho from Colombia travelling on a his Pulsar, unfortunately a "very strong gust of wind" :huh on a charm still perfect day :roflblew his bike over

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ca/file-14.jpg

Garsten and Luisa from Argentina travelling two up on their Honda 125

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ca/file-77.jpg

Yes 79424 km .... onya guys ..Respect!!!:clap

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...nca/file-5.jpg

The girls doing girls things... they said it was nail polish I reckon they were graffiti taggers :evil

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...nca/file-9.jpg

Saying goodbye to our new Cuencadorian family we took a cool route through small villages and a back road to Yantzaza on great advice from luis, anything to avoid the pan am and clutter that goes with it.

Huge thanks to Luis Janette and family for making us feel welcome.:clap

seouljoe 13 Dec 2013 15:26

Great Photo Documentary
 
Full of humanity ,,
This is what it's all about!

Noel900r 15 Dec 2013 10:54

Nice work as always.If i don't catch up before hand have a wonderful Christmas ,will look forward to following your travels in the new year ,regards Noel:D:D

Two Moto Kiwis 19 Dec 2013 20:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by seouljoe (Post 446836)
Full of humanity ,,
This is what it's all about!

Heya seouljoe

You are absolutely right, the groovy locations and places are cool but the people are the ones that really make it ?c?:thumbup1:

Two Moto Kiwis 19 Dec 2013 20:50

Quote:

Originally Posted by Noel900r (Post 447003)
Nice work as always.If i don't catch up before hand have a wonderful Christmas ,will look forward to following your travels in the new year ,regards Noel:D:D

Heya Noel

Yeah Merry Christmas mate have a great one, really appreciated your input on our thread this year ... more to torture with next year.

Cheers mate

Andi & Ellen

Two Moto Kiwis 19 Dec 2013 20:55

Cuenca To Yanzatza To Vilacabamba
 
Sorry for the delay here, wifi has been skinnier than a supermodel and so slow the dogs can piss on it, however now we have a connection :clap

Lets go to the back yard and play

Good bye to Cuenca dudes and thank you so much :clap

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...zatza/file.jpg

The road out of Cuenca was laden with trucks and buses which slowly thinned out as we got further off the beaten track, just as we entered into a small gorge we saw two moto riders, turns out they were part of a bigger group that we caught up to, they all turned off and with big smiles toots and waves we carried on now with virtually no traffic.

What a great road to take avoiding the Pan Am and having a great look through outstanding scenery in Ecuadors back yard. Needless to say we pretty much had the road to ourselves, once getting out of the small towns it turned from road carpet to normal tar to tar with potholes then to the worlds most dangerous road .. yes another gravel road rivaling the worlds most dangerous roads with slips and disappearing banks into a soup of fog.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...tza/file-2.jpg

What a treat

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...tza/file-6.jpg

Got a bit skinny in places :eek1... not much between us and nothing.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...tza/file-9.jpg

Coupla groovy waterfalls along the way too

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...za/file-11.jpg

On exiting our exciting road after spending over half the ride on gravel, mud and washouts we hit the main drag and booted it down the semi main drag on brand new blacktop fit for Valentino Rossi making for a great spin for the last part of the day before retiring in Yanzatza.

Dropping over 2500 metres in a little over half an hour we rode from the fridge into the oven, baked kiwis on the lunch menu.

Yanzatza .....we arrived and it was 40 degrees taking us from baked to grilled kiwis, we found a hotel and got sorted only to have the lady try and charge more to park Maya, I got grumpy and said no we are still two people and one moto so nothing has changed, I told the lady we would go .....suddenly it was alright again...hmmm another try on to the whiteyfoo....this has been a reasonably common theme in Ecuador, this is the only this that annoys me daily having crosshairs on my forehead for a GT (Gringo Tax).

I am sure if they came to New Zealand and we tried to charge twice or extra like has happened they would spit the dummy ... nuf sed.

Luis gave us a side trip to look at in a boat but this seemed to be harder than hens teeth to track down so we did not get to do it in the end.

Loja was the next destination and in the middle is a beautiful mountain pass getting up over 3000 meters, the top was very cold and wet, looking through the screen down at Loja we realized how big the city actually was so we chose to carry on to Vilacabamba to spend a few days there hiking and taking the place in.

Another waterfall on the road side, mum nature washing our camera too

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...mba/file-3.jpg

Vilacabamba is the valley of longevity where if you drink the water you get jedi powers and live for hundreds of years....not many hot young chicks there.

Backtracking slightly I met a Russian dude in Cuenca who lives in Vilacabamba and he was having trouble with his honda 125 so I helped him sort it out while we were there.

Again we launched an assault on another national park but this time we got our arses kicked.

Arriving at the top of the 8 km access road the weather was average, bit of fog and cloud so no views today, as we ascended the weather got progressively worse, the rain got heavier and the wind chimed in for good measure.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ba/file-16.jpg

We soon left the safety and shelter of the trees then realized mum nature was having an off day, she made life hard for us with severe wind chill coupled with pouring rain, we were soaked from underneath from the wind blowing rain up our dresses.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ba/file-18.jpg

Along the knife edge at the summit things got worse, we were both chilling down due to the seriously adverse conditions despite wearing very appropriate merino and wet gear, even with my hat held down tight with the draw string I had to hold the extra length and my hat was ripped off my head seven times.

Pics do not do it justice

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ba/file-19.jpg

Such were the wind gusts we had to crouch and brace in the undergrowth (about 400 mm high) to avoid being blown off the track, it is a weird feeling when you go to put your foot down and the wind stops your foot going down, we were very happy to get down off the ridge and into the tree line again.

While at Vilacabamba we meet Coen & Karen from Holland, they have been travelling for 10 years in a LWB landcruiser so we exchanged info and GPS maps etc which was great, the first night we tried to met mum nature had other plans and decided a valley cleanse would be the deal .... whoa did it rain.

Coen and Karens Cruiser

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...mba/file-3.jpg

A little bit of rain :rofl

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ba/file-10.jpg

The street/river

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ba/file-12.jpg

There is a view point above Vilacabamba too, nice little jaunt with a good view, we got the timing right between the sun and the rain that came.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ba/file-27.jpg

Two Moto Kiwis 19 Dec 2013 21:52

Vilacabamba To The Peruvian Border To San Agnacio
 
Shit it is only 134 km ... easy as, if we cruised at 268 km an hour we would be there in half an hour....and have time for a latte darling :rofl

They said 4 hours given road works etc, it started out ok then the weather caved in big time, wets on we carried on in first gear for quite a few km because of pea soup fog and heavy rain as well as lots on mud on the concreted road making it extremely greasy.

Stopping for roadworks we only waited a short time and we quietly meandered on amidst mud and cement.

With the concrete ending and the weather clearing we had an interesting time as the wet road was now drying quickly to form that stodgy semi bog that won’t clear from the tyres, this clay stuck like shit to a blanket.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...mba/file-1.jpg

Then the roadworks ... ruts from the Terex 6 x 6 trucks were 200 - 300 mm deep in places so causing enough trouble sliding from side to side and not being able to climb out.

An easy patch for a change

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...mba/file-3.jpg

Just when you thought it could not get worse it did (or better depending wot you are riding)

Getting to a point where a road worker flagged us over I sat and waited for a bus to try and climb the incline but no way, he tried and tried, in the end they hooked the digger on and towed the bus up.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...mba/file-5.jpg

Getting through that section we thought well shit we are top of it now .... nup, we were stopped again further down the road again, the bridge was broken and we had to turn around and go back to a town some km’s back and take a diversion ... well this turned out to be stunning scenery and took us miles out the back.

Also sloppy but much more fuild so at least the tyres cleared a bit

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...mba/file-7.jpg

Gettin better

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...mba/file-9.jpg

This of course completely shattered the “4” hours as we had been riding for 5 hours and we still had 60 km of this to go, considering it was only 134 km to start that was less than ideal.

From River to Ridges we got to a great height on the diversion and on a dry road :clap

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ba/file-11.jpg

Our border crossing plans for that day shelved we stopped in Zumba for the night, filled up for the final time on $2 per gallon gas with Maya having her 38 liter belly filled to the brim, at this station it is run by militars, they write down all ya details and the bike.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ba/file-15.jpg

While in Zumba Maya attracted the younger crowd on potential moto riders, we made fiends and they all sat on Maya .... yes they ALL sat on Maya.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...mba/file-3.jpg

Setting off from Zumba we had 26 km to do, no pavement so no expectations other than to cross in Peru and get to San Agnacio.

Trouble free (its true) to the border, our only stop a military check point, stinking hot was the greeting at the border and the border guards relaxed and friendly exiting Ecuador, we were done in less than five minutes.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...nacio/file.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...cio/file-7.jpg

Crossed the bridge into Peru with the border guard unlocking the gate and welcoming us with handshakes and smiles ... awesome welcome to Peru.:clap

Again they were all friendly and helpful with the Police running it, finally the import permit for Maya .... that is when the fun started.

The very friendly and welcoming border guard set to with enthusiasm that was not matched by his computer, the connection failed ...came back ... went....came back ...failed ..... arrived and stayed WOH HOH ... it works.

All information was entered and accepted no worries ....time to print .... yeah ... time to print ...his printer had left for lunch and never came back, now we have an official hand written document ...it is beautiful.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...io/file-14.jpg

So over a feed of crackers and cheese he filled out the hand written document, he was very apologetic but he was unaware his printer had packed a sad, I don’t think he gets many vehicles through there.

While waiting we also watched the local ants cart a dead butterfly some 5 meters on burning hot concrete you could not stand on with bare feet (I know), these little guys are strong....we made sure we kept an eye on Maya so they didn't flog her :rofl

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...io/file-13.jpg

All in all that was the nicest and cruisiest border crossing we have done yet, if not for the printer and connection probs we woulda been through there quicker than a robbers dog.

WOH HOH Peru, finally and down to San Agnacio, with our few setbacks we decided to get our insurance and so Soles and head on into the new lands the next day.

Entertainment in San Agnacio provided by an enthusiastic Honda CG 125 made by Landrover.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...io/file-21.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...io/file-22.jpg

Happy to be here :evil

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...io/file-23.jpg

norschweger 20 Dec 2013 01:49

[QUOTE=Two Moto Kiwis;446101]:funmeterno:

Yes lots ask the question, I just play down the value now.

We get (well I do with my blonde/silvering hair) the gringo thing and even some snide sorta treatment, when we say Nueva Zelandia the whole conversation lifts, some have it bad against the yanks although most don't know where New Zealand is anyway .. .so we add Australia ...there reply is argh Austria ...so we just smile :D

They view us as seriously wealthy, they don't see us as working class people who worked their arses off and sold a bunch of shit to get there .. never mind all part of the deal.

And yes meeting, finally ...where do you wonna have Christmas in Peru?


Yes, I guess, we just have to accept it...I also tell lower prices.
Well, I am still in Cuenca and am seriously wondering how I can combine the trip with the Dakar. Where are you at?
Some nice mountainous village with good fud and lotsa grog would suit fine ... ouwh and some petrol. sounds good to me

norschweger 20 Dec 2013 02:00

I guess you meant San Ignacia? I thought about taking the other border at Macara, maybe in 2 days.

Two Moto Kiwis 20 Dec 2013 14:01

Check out the Christmas in Peru thread in Latin on ADV, things are happening there.

The other border will be easier riding and if you are going coastal it makes sense, certainly way more to see and do in the mounts.

Two Moto Kiwis 24 Dec 2013 01:44

San Agnacio To Cuispes
 
Waterfalls ...common as rice in China :rofl

Our plan started as heading to Chachapoyas however meeting Oliver and his girlfriend by chance at the hostel he suggested some alternate ideas, being a local we took it on.

We hit the road at 6.00am to avoid upwards of 8 hours delay on the road due to massive roadworks, again great advice from the hostel dude saying get past the roadworks prior 7.00am when they start or it will take all day to cover about 60 km.

Riding through the roadworks and being wet the base binder they use it stuck to Maya like concrete, we wanted some good rain to help wash this stuff off but that did not eventuate despite ominous looking clouds, we did have treats further on tho where the road has some cool overhangs through the gorges.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/.../Jaen/file.jpg

We took a wrong turn ... ooops

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...aen/file-3.jpg

This boat was gonna take us across the river but we decided against it wanting to keep Maya a little longer :D

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...aen/file-5.jpg

We hoped this went somehwere .. in Peru we have found many surprises on the road

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...es/file-31.jpg

Old bridge new bridge

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...es/file-32.jpg

Cool rock into under cut rock

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...es/file-35.jpg

So, between paper maps and Mrs.Garmin we made it however Mrs.Garmin has us in a different place to where we are ... as do the paper maps......must be the Japanese earthquake eh.:huh

There is one Hostal here in the main plaza (only plaza) so we based ourselves there, you won’t know it is there unless someone tells you ... so here it is, the GPS coords and what you are looking for.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...es/file-29.jpg

GPS coords

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...es/file-36.jpg

Cool wee tranquil town up at 2000 meters so easy to sleep and quiet, secure and enjoyable, no wifi tho.

As far as a quiet hangout it ticks the boxes well and we thank Oliver for the local information :clap

Two Moto Kiwis 26 Dec 2013 16:40

Ucuador Sum Up
 
Ecuadawesome!!!!

So first off a massive thanks to Freedom rentals for great information, also to Julio, mum and dad of Ambato and Luis and Jeanette & family of Cuenca you guys rock and made Ecuador for us....and we had a good crack at the rest of it.

Starting back at the beginning arriving at Tulcan we bedded in getting used to new another country after leaving the comfort and fun of Colombia, let me tell you Maya nearly turned back....it was close, my enthusiasm to head to Ecuador overruled the want to stay in Colombia, was it a smart move ... who knows but the idea is to see the place so to move on.....nonetheless my heart was not in leaving Colombia.

Hitting the coast we wondered why the hell we did that, it was not anything like we thought, both of us agreed our hearts are in the mountains.

Heading to Quito was great, nice ride and accom and meeting the guys from Freedom Rentals, now if you are coming to Ecuador GO SEE THEM, these boys know the place like the back of their hand ... trust me they WILL make your trip.

Ecuador has stunning national parks worthy of world class status so we made the most of these.

Ambato, Julio,mum and dad ... outstanding, great times from great people and Julio is an inspiration doing his RTW trip on a KTM 525EXC.

Chimborazo was undoubtedly the highlight for both of us and the highest point we have ever been on land . .... if we look a bit red it is cos we were the closest to the sun we have ever been.

Over to the coast further down we enjoyed that apart from the guts ache from a dodgy food tienda, shit happens (ouwh and it it did)

Cuenca, amigos of Freedom and Julios, Luis and Jeanette put up with us and to be fair we loved staying and torturing them with sushi, again great times with local people, they really make the trip putting the icing on a great cake.

The roads were outstanding condition... even the dirt roads were great condition and despite the road from Vilacabamba to the border was difficult we really enjoyed it and the entertainment of diggers towing buses etc on the main drag was something different.

The down side, as with anywhere it is not perfect and the blemish for me was the daily dose of people “trying it on”, doubling prices, quoting prices then changing it, I have started to grow a thicker skin after being ripped a few times....and allowing it...fool on me.

Now I fight back, they think nothing of trying to take me to the cleaners so I have no bones about defending my position and standing my ground, I am sure if they came to New Zealand and we did it to them they would get tell us to get stuffed.

Much to their surprise when I say no, that is NOT what you said they are taken back, I think they must do it to white faces and other white faces just blindly go “ouwh OK”, so I raise my voice one notch and they don’t seem to like that attention.

So enough on that but I do advise any whiteyfoos to stand your ground and let them know it is not cool as it makes it more difficult for the next people if they think they can do it and get away with it all the time, some food for thought anyway.

To finish on a good note we both enjoyed and loved Ecuador and wouldn’t hesitate for a second to recommend it to other travellers, as for danger, no this is not a dangerous place and like anywhere you mind your stuff and be sensible.

http://youtu.be/3nZxixgyzTY

on two wheels 26 Dec 2013 20:30

Hi Andy and Ellen, Wish you a Merry Christmas and the best for New year
I,m enjoying this thread, love your photo,s keep them coming, Safe riding guys, cheers, Roger,:scooter:

Two Moto Kiwis 27 Dec 2013 16:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by on two wheels (Post 448130)
Hi Andy and Ellen, Wish you a Merry Christmas and the best for New year
I,m enjoying this thread, love your photo,s keep them coming, Safe riding guys, cheers, Roger,:scooter:

Heya Roger

Merry Christmas to you to, thank you so much for your props it is appreciated and thank you for coming along with us.

Cheers Andi & Ellen

Two Moto Kiwis 27 Dec 2013 20:59

Cueipes - Town Of Waterfalls
 
In Cueipes there is the 10th 3rd highest waterfall in the world :rofl... they all seem to have a claim to fame however we can vouch these have a claim to grandeur, Yumbilla being a 4 tier fall it falls from the plato well above and drops four tiers to the base pond before turning into a normal creek on its way to the Amazon river.

This baby is four tiers high

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...pes/file-2.jpg

With a bit of scrounging around we found the track to the base and the undercut falls ... awesome.

The base falls, me on the left

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...pes/file-4.jpg

You can walk behind the falls too as it has been washed out from years of wear and tear, you can see how it floods in Brasil when you have epic rains in Peru as the catchment is enormous.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...pes/file-5.jpg

Ellen decided it was warm :eek1

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...es/file-12.jpg

That pretty much took care of the day, next up was the track to the top between the first and second tier which we did on the second day and we were not let down at all enjoying epic views of Peru from the top shelf.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...es/file-14.jpg

And how cool is this a bit or wildlife right in front of us :clap

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...es/file-17.jpg

The top, this section was a monty, again me but on the center right being dwarfed by a Pervian ducha

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...es/file-21.jpg

Ellen decided on the way back that one of the smaller falls was worthy of a swim, I thought it was worthy of a photo, we both got our way.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...es/file-26.jpg

On a previous track earlier we looked for another invisible waterfall and it turned into and epic climb so needless to say by the time we made it out of the bush we were beat but what a day.

Tea was early ...so was bed time. :clap

Two Moto Kiwis 27 Dec 2013 23:11

Cuispes To Luya And About
 
Huge day .... woulda been a good 40 km.

After spending our one .... three nights in Cuispes we hit it and headed to Chacapoyas with the vision of going back to Luya,

The road was nothing short of spectacular with massive rock overhangs such that again they made Mrs.Garmin lose her mind.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...jia/file-3.jpg

See the vid for the rock ride

http://youtu.be/iWdBvYkhKYQ

Ellen spotted the turnoff to Luya that took us right there, the road not shown on maps or GPS so we are using human talent to get to places now. :lol3

Getting off the main road it turned to shingle and was boney and yet again another world most dangerous road, I am sure if we fell off any one of them that would be the end of it so I am not sure what makes what more dangerous. :eek1

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...jia/file-6.jpg

We set up at Luya for the night and started our trip out to Karajia, we were relying on roads signs and as it would happen some wonderful Peruvian made the sign wrong and the two towns pointed out on it are opposite ways.

Eeeerh WRONG

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ia/file-13.jpg

We travelled quite some distance on an even bonier road before stopping and asking only to find out this slight anomaly ....as known by the locals.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ia/file-11.jpg

An american lady working in a school came to the rescue and said we needed to backtrack and informed us of slight hickup with the sign so that pretty much stuffed the day and we had to return and have a crack at it the following day.

Nice outlook, ominous clouds in the distance, even when taking the wrong turn the right ting always happens.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...jia/file-9.jpg

You guessed it, next day mission accomplished with ease now on the right road.:rofl

We have to admit the sales photos etc almost overdid what we thought we were going to see, the single sales photo of the statues is pretty much it, anyway, being there is everything, it was great to see it in person and we have a cool cruise through small backyard towns.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...jia/file-3.jpg

A tomb on the other side

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...jia/file-7.jpg

Nice chasm like surroundings

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...jia/file-4.jpg

On our way back we turned off to the Huaylla Belen river which snakes its way down the valley, we stopped at the top which unveiled the full shape of it.:clap

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ia/file-21.jpg

This pic can only be improved in one way :rofl

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ia/file-25.jpg

Two Moto Kiwis 27 Dec 2013 23:32

Luya To Chachapoyas To Kuelap
 
We returned back to Luya from the statues and headed for Chachapoyas for much needed wifi, my passport is due to expire in 2014 and you need it valid for at least six months after your border crossing, buggered if i know why as to me valid is valid.:huh

So our major discovery at this point in the planet is getting wifi is hard to find then to cap it off is is very very slow so uploading photos and doing ride reports has now become a mission in itself.

Now we find ourselves clocking into big towns every few days to catch up on office work, sometimes a ride report and clocking onto FB etc turns into a chaw with the lack of speed so please be patient, this is a great excuse to ignore you guys but we aren’t doing that :rofl......promise :evil.

Chachapoyas was cool, nice setting and we had a nice pizza which is a change from chicken and rice, we did get my passport stuff done finally, we also tried to get Mayas registration sorted but from a third world country dealing with an antiquated bureaucratically bullshit system the USA/Arizona has is 4th world to deal with, unbelievable to be honest ... all we wonna do is give them money to keep the system straight :cry

Office work plus or minus done for the mo thankfully the plan was to visit kuelap ... poor mans Machu Picchu ... or is it?


Local police bike ... rural

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...yas/file-7.jpg

Beautiful buildings

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...yas/file-5.jpg

Here you can get Coca Cola and Inca Kola, not sure the Incas drunk this stuff tho .. both made by Coca Cola!!

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...yas/file-6.jpg

Two Moto Kiwis 28 Dec 2013 00:10

Kuelap
 
Poor mans Machu Picchcu ... not on your life, this place is unreal and a genuine treat back into, at $5 compared to Machu Picchcu $50 I hope Machu Picchcu is ten times better.

A great road leading to Kuelap we found lodgings in a small town Maria and the following day took the ride to the top.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ap/file-14.jpg

This is a model of what used to be there in their hay day.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ap/file-31.jpg

Well for poor mans Machu Picchcu it is outstanding, we spent the good part of 3.5 hours wondering around the photogenic ruins...the ex home of 3000 inhabitants at 3000 meters above stress level.

Entrada/Entrance, one of only four.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ap/file-25.jpg

Of interest all the buildings were built circular except the big meeting room, the views from all side can only be described as majestic.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ap/file-16.jpg

A newly restored building showing what was there.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...lap/file-1.jpg

Some local llamas followed us around, I think they just wanted their photos taken with some whiteyfoos.:rofl

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...uelap/file.jpg

Different decals on the walls for different levels of society

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...lap/file-4.jpg

Tombraiders .... I think we beat Angelina Jolie here :evil

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ap/file-11.jpg

Propping some ruins

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...lap/file-8.jpg

Stoned

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ap/file-12.jpg

This is the point I sat there, looked out over the valley and had some deep thoughts (normally I am very shallow :evil), so wow, here WE are in Peru in Kuelap sitting here looking straight in the face of raw history, I felt inspired and bulletproof, taking some fresh air in, big breaths, big views .... I was there :clap:clap:clap:clap:clap

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ap/file-18.jpg

Ellen got some air too .... Phil and Jayne ...is this one ok? :rofl

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ap/file-21.jpg

Completion the ruins satisfied and fulfilled with our rocking experience we set to heading south to Leymebamba, the road was completely wiped out a coupla of weeks ago so we had no idea if we were going to do an epic backtrack or not, the bus drivers at Kuelap said no you can’t go through so we thought we would have a look anyway...glad we did.:clap

We bumped into Martin a German RTW traveller and he had just come through no problem so game on plan A still in effect with scenery road supreme in our sights.

Crashing the night in Leymebamba we met Devin a Canadian on a pushbike so 3 x gringos go out for tea in the small town, great end to a superb day.

Two Moto Kiwis 28 Dec 2013 15:44

Leycabamba To Celedin To Cajamarca
 
After some deep thoughts in Kuelap can it get any better... yeap!!! ...now I am on my moto with deep thoughts and scenery to get possessive over

Worlds most beautiful road, one of many we have had the privilege to ride and stunning it was, one of many we in Peru.

We left at the normal time of about 9.00am and soon caught up to Devin who was cycling up the monster hill which goes up to 3600 meters.

We towed him the 8 - 9 km up the hill which saved his legs and lungs a good 2 hours slog knowing he would need his energy for the following days climb outa Balsa.

Totally legal of course and we had consent ....:D

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...din/file-4.jpg

For the vid

http://youtu.be/g_6V-ibouyM

Saying goodbye at the top .. group photo

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...din/file-9.jpg

Waving bye bye to a happy camper we quietly meandered our way down this beautiful black boulevard of scenery, the fog playing with us and the narrow and winding road keeping my mind on the job.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...in/file-10.jpg

Narrow in places

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...in/file-12.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...in/file-14.jpg

WOW, I am not sure I got outa 2nd gear the whole way down as we took our time gobsmacked at the beauty.

This was the section of road the mum nature sent for a holiday down the chasm, a new temporary permanent bridge in place, you don't look off the side :D

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...in/file-13.jpg

Into Balsa the outside temp hit 41 degrees C, a quick feed under a tree and few good gobs of water we set to the next leg up and over to Celedin.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...in/file-34.jpg

Coupla local boy racers taking the outside line but with some kiwi skill we kicked their Asses :rofl

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...in/file-18.jpg

Cool scenery and rock faces

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...in/file-19.jpg

This is common sight along this part of road, a complete monster rock garden

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...in/file-22.jpg

Crossing the swollen river at Balsa

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...in/file-29.jpg

The roads goes on and on up the valley then you leave the tighter section and realize you are actually only about 1/3 of the way up, we thought of Devin riding up there and were extremely grateful of a 950cc donk.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...in/file-45.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...in/file-38.jpg

Finally up and over we continued to Celendin where we finished for the day as a stopover to destination Cajamarca Christmas.

Some locals in Celedin

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...in/file-40.jpg

Typical tall oversized hats are worn by everybody except the hot chics trying to impress the boys and the horny boys who don't wonna destroy or disturb their new 1980's Bobby Brow hairdo :D

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...in/file-41.jpg

Only having about 120 km to do for the day we didn’t bust our nuts and had plenty of time to get sorted, James and Colleen Tucker and Tobius were joining us for Christmas in Cajamarca for a gathering of the homeless, request was wifi, parking cheap, the request was fulfilled.

Christmas afternoon James and Colleen rolled in followed by Tobius followed by Devin on his pushbike .... top effort!!

Two Moto Kiwis 29 Dec 2013 02:58

Cajamarca ...Merry Christmas
 
Firstly if you organize an event you should turn up ....:huh

We I did ... at least for part of the first night, James & Colleen Tucker, Tobius me and Ellen out for a snack

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...rca/file-2.jpg

Christmas eve, all the crims had arrived and got sorted, we had a few grogs and went out for tea, we had Chinese and I got a bad batch of chicken, by later evening I was turning green, by midnight I was not feeling great but we went into town for a look around and got back about 1 ish.

Fours mysterious Ghosts :D

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...rca/file-8.jpg

Cajamarca Peruvian crew on Christmas eve ... good times

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...rca/file-1.jpg

Shortly after things went sour with No2’s going from cable to wifi and me talking to the big white telephone several times during the night:puke1:puke1:puke1, BIG discussions were held :puke1:puke1:puke1. (no photos)

So my Christmas present was food poisoning ... yay, Christmas day I was sub sheets all day, sweating, freezing, dunny, repeat.

Not sure what the others did so that is my Christmas report :huh:rofl.

Boxing day I was still alive although heavily washed out and badly dehydrated so Ellen got some Gatorade to help refuel me then slowly on dry biscuits I got back into it.

Next night when I was fit and almost well Tobius, Devin Ellen and I went to a steakhouse for tea... outstanding it was too, incredibly nice and a treat after being so crook. :clap

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ca/file-18.jpg

We did have time to take in the sights of Cajamarca finally, again Tobius, Devin Ellen and I take a ride to Banos Del Inca hot pools and the three lads got a massage too...awesome soak followed by a good beating.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ca/file-11.jpg

Inca face carved into a tree, well done I say.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ca/file-13.jpg

The local (crazy) market also providing some bulk entertainment it was hustle and bustle supreme, as luck would have it pretty much the best coffee place in town was two doors down.

The louts, Ellen, Me, Tobius and Devin

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...rca/file-9.jpg

Merry Christmas with the ADV salute to go..

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ca/file-27.jpg

Tuckers away

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ca/file-29.jpg

Tobius away

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ca/file-22.jpg

As usual .. the kiwis ... first to get there last ones to leave :clap

norschweger 29 Dec 2013 06:38

when I look at your pictures, I might consider to follow you from now on...: )

Two Moto Kiwis 31 Dec 2013 22:59

Quote:

Originally Posted by norschweger (Post 448344)
when I look at your pictures, I might consider to follow you from now on...: )

Ha ... plan on getting lost bier, Andes mate .. stunning.

Two Moto Kiwis 31 Dec 2013 23:00

Page Shortening Post
 
To keep it short

Two Moto Kiwis 31 Dec 2013 23:00

Page Shortening Post
 
One more ...

Two Moto Kiwis 31 Dec 2013 23:04

Page Shortening Post
 
Ok I lied

Two Moto Kiwis 31 Dec 2013 23:05

Page Shortening Post
 
One more?

Two Moto Kiwis 31 Dec 2013 23:06

Page Shortening Post
 
Gezz .. I can't count


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