Horizons Unlimited - The HUBB

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Two Moto Kiwis 31 Jul 2013 19:04

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Two Moto Kiwis 31 Jul 2013 19:05

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Two Moto Kiwis 31 Jul 2013 19:05

Another one :thumbup1:

Two Moto Kiwis 31 Jul 2013 19:06

Last one!!!

Two Moto Kiwis 31 Jul 2013 19:07

I lied .. one more :rofl:

Two Moto Kiwis 31 Jul 2013 19:10

Leon To Managua
 
Jurgen sent us down the old road which was very entertaining and great fun, virtually no traffic at all, in the distance it was started turning black, then very black and it started to rain so a quick stop to swing on the wet gear.

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Well ... if we only knew what we were in for, as luck would have it we cleared the old road clay section prior the lite rain, entering into Managua all fury was let loose on us as mum nature threw her toys out of the cot.

We got torrential rain like I have never seen in my life before and the road turned into a creek then a river with pressure waves rolling down it.

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At one point we were riding down the street/river and the water was over the front exhaust head pipe and coming up the tank, the front of our fuel tank is about 600 mm off the ground so we were in quite a torrent of water, even Ellens boots were under on her passenger pegs....no problem with overheating!!

This is a road!!!, note we are riding on the left hand side of the double lane as the right hand side would be a lot deeper due to road camber.:eek1

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Shabby photo but you can see the front of the tank and the front exhaust header pipe under water

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Once we had gotten through the shower we arrived at Aarons place (TeeVee on ADV) as he had kindly taken delivery of the pinlock inserts and bought them down for us with with him ... onya dude, really appreciate that!!!

Aaron had organised a hotel for us only a block away from his place, he also had some locals come around for a big bar b q and grogs, some nice steaks, more Rum and yet again good times a true entertainer.

Ellen and Aarons good lady

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Sunday morning was the family day out to Laguna Apoyo, we were invited which was very nice, Aaron organised a large Toyota van and we all piled into that with the chilly bins, fud and I say most of a gazebo...which became apparent.

The start of the day was wet ... who woulda thought in rainy season!!!:rofl

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Arriving at the lake it was raining pretty well, Aaron pulled out the gazebo to find that the cover was back at the house.... FAIL ...Aaron was gutted and took it hard, we said well hell we were not worried and we will go for a 5 minute swim while we were there anyway given the effort to get there.

Down to the lake

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Aaron and his good lady

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Two hours later we got out of the water and the rain had all but stopped so the bar b q was on again WOH HOH .... sans gazebo ... bonus ... one less thing to pack up!!!

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Girls playing to the camera ... great kids!!!

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Good fud, good rum, good friends, good times!!!

That evening we were supposed to go to Salcars but with the Nicaraguan festivities we didn’t leave the lake until after dark so by the time we arrived back in town we decided to stay at Aarons rather than ride at night....more rum :D

The following day we headed off to Salcars, I had a saw throat so we decided just to relax a little and take it easy.

Arriving at Casa Salvador

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We spent two nights there taking in some local sites during the day and and relaxing at night, apparently we rode pretty close to some palace and the military wanted out passports etc as they wanted to know what two strange lookin people were doing riding a large alien......smiles, passports, chats, no worries bro, Kiwis havin fun.

A local lake

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Time for a cold coke

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Diving off the main drag we found some nice coloured trees

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Maya parked with the little fellas

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Salavdor runs Nicanotoadv and utilizes Yamahas and and F650, for anyone wanting to ride Nicaragua and there are dozens of reasons why to ride there the Salvador can set you up with a lite weight bike that is perfect for exploring Nicaragua.

Although I love the KTM 950 I would choose a 125 or 250 over it for Central America due to the diverse nature of the terrain, shingle roads and sandy volcanic back roads.

So thank you very much for hosting us Salvador, you have a beautiful home in a cool place.

Reyna, Salvadors mum relaxing outside, very warm and welcoming to say the least.

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This is Salvadors contact, he can sort your needs out on Managua no problem or if you are looking for a rental ride he has a heap to choose from.

Nicaragua Motorcycle Adventures — Nicaragua motorcycle rentals and motorcycle tours

Next destination was Granada.

Two Moto Kiwis 31 Jul 2013 19:58

Granada And The Tree House
 
An uneventful ride once out of central Managua then a short open road trip to Granada, arriving there it was hot and sticky, Ellen set to looking for a place to stay, seems to be popular place with a lot of hotels and hostel booked out.

We finally found a place that was a reasonable cost and had a swimming pool so Ellen was sold on that.

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Getting Maya into the lobby was tight with about 5 -10 mm on each side of the cases, there was also a swarm of little bikes in reception too so there was some shuffling done.

The local market was in full swing and close by so we took my broken boot for a repair job and I bought a new shoelace for my hat as it had decayed and died, also my gruds are 15 months of getting a thrashing were getting thin so both Ellen and I bought two new ones each with the imminent biff out of the old one close.

One of the hostel owners with an employee

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Ganada cento is very nice and much like Antigua, Guatemala

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The Tree House

Leaving Granada we only travelled 9 km to our next destination the Poste Rojo (Red Post Hostel) otherwise known as the treehouse.

We found our way there and took the final 200 meter climb amidst a ball of sweat in riding gear.

We just got in and sorted and the regular afternoon thunderstorms chased us under cover, the howler monkeys sitting in the trees not thinking much of their afternoon wash all went quiet for a while, we have about 8 -10 of them in the trees above us.

For a small monkey they can make a lot of noise.

The access road in

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The bar

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Some signage

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We met a Kiwi girl Lou at the hostel, although from Auckland which is not part of New Zealand she almost seemed ok, it was really cool to hear some Kiwi lingo and speak Kiwi lingo without get a blank look back at us.

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The house

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Sunset

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The following day was our assault on Volcan Mombacho, Lou (nicknamed Kiwi) was heading to Masaya so we all walked together to her bus then we left to the Volcan, while walking into a tienda (corner store) a dog came running out and went for me, I had already prepped my sticks for the big walk so as quick as a flash I managed to swipe the dog clean under the chin and judging by the sound it made and the squeal that followed he was not impressed and backed off immediately which I was happy about to be honest, didn’t fancy a rabies trip to the docs .

Narrowly avoiding dog issues it was about 6 km to the top of the Volcan and the top section is very steep and quite a grunt so we both were dripping wet only half way up.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ada/file-4.jpg

The walk around the top was the easy bit and like all of Centro America there was fud available at the top so we refueled us and continued, unfortunately with the cloud the views were somewhat restricted but that is the way it is.

It was windy at the view point

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Stunning scenery in the rain forest

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A rock crevase

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Coming down I dreaded the long clunk down, we managed to score a ride down on the back of a ute gratis, they charge $15 US for a ride up and back so it should have cost us $7.50 each ... we spent that on Rum that night!!

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Noel900r 1 Aug 2013 00:21

Guy's as i'm home with the man flu ,really enjoyed catching up again with your travels,Only a kiwi would get the Auckland jibe,:lol2:Wonderful story /photo's as always.

BoulderGeek 1 Aug 2013 16:18

Greetings from Antarctica!

It's great to see your ride report covering many of the areas that I experienced in 2009.

I loved Granada and other areas in Nicaragua. Enjoy.

Perhaps we'll run into each other in South America in October/November timeframe.

i'm bouldergeek on ADV, too.

Two Moto Kiwis 2 Aug 2013 05:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by Noel900r (Post 431071)
Guy's as i'm home with the man flu ,really enjoyed catching up again with your travels,Only a kiwi would get the Auckland jibe,:lol2:Wonderful story /photo's as always.

Mate sorry about the man flu, excruciating pain beyond belief (worse than child birth I have heard) requiring naked nurses and bourbon :tongue3:

Gotta smack those Auckaloafans when you can :smartass:

Two Moto Kiwis 2 Aug 2013 05:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by BoulderGeek (Post 431147)
Greetings from Antarctica!

It's great to see your ride report covering many of the areas that I experienced in 2009.

I loved Granada and other areas in Nicaragua. Enjoy.

Perhaps we'll run into each other in South America in October/November timeframe.

i'm bouldergeek on ADV, too.

Absolutely a catch up .... Antarctica you say ... hmmmm how did you get there, a dream, ambition and want of ours .... will have a chat to you about that if we may!

Like you we have been experiencing Nicaraguas finest, this is a a great place :thumbup1:

We cross Drain with Ludwig on 12th August then sorta south from there, let keep in touch.

Two Moto Kiwis 2 Aug 2013 05:10

Ometepe Island
 
In the middle of lake Nicaragua, the lake is more like a sea because of its size.

This is where we went

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We caught the ferry just in time, an anxious local was busting his nuts to get us on the boat for no real reason and creating some confusion with the loading guys which was a little frustrating, he said we have to pay him $10 US .... we say what for? loading ...HA nup, then it went down to $5 then $1, with the confusion and stuffing around he caused I should have got $1 from him....HELPERS are NOT helpers.

Once we ignored him and loaded with the guys organising things everything went smooth, we were second to last on so Maya was right at the ramp, the cars were packed on as tight as sardines in a can but it all worked.

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Reaching the island we headed off to our recommended accommodation, arriving there was a 500 meter climb to the hostel with our moto and gear being left down by the road ... wrong, that ain’t gonna happen, too hot to walk up with all the clobber and no way were leaving Maya down by the street to who knows what.

We carried on and found another place, not to bad, secure parking, clean room shared with two Canadians so we checked in stayed there for the two nights, given we had plenty of time left we took the luggage of and circumnavigated one end of the island which is formed by two Volcans, most of the road is unpaved and rough in places with some mud thrown in so an interesting ride.

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The being loaded with watermelons, we had to squeeze around the outside

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The road was narrow in places and just wide enough for the trucks

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Only a few km before the hostel and just after we hit pavement again we stopped at a small cafe and had a great coffee and relax...then back to the hostel to get cleaned up for tea.

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On our return we had some butterflies playing to the camera, Ellen managed to get a closeup

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Day 2, time to check out the other side and circumnavigate the second volcano, the first part of the cobbled road is great condition then it turns into shingle and rock again, we followed the main cobbled section to the end to find we had to ride up a creek bed for 1km before getting back on to the main dirt road.

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Ellen hoped off in a few places to help me out which was great, less work to handle the mighty Mayan.

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Once back on the main dirt road it was plain sailing for the most other than some rocky lumpy sections but by all account way smoother than the previous day.

We stopped at Altagracia for some lunch, in the town centro there is a cool volcano model of Ometepe Island

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We then carried on back to the hostel to get swimming gear and head back to the natural pools, we swam for a while and relaxed.

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We headed back to the hostel as I wanted to get some ride reports out however the wifi was dead, a cafe some 5 km away still had wifi so we opted to go there for a coffee, on opening our email we had other pressing stuff to get sorted so once again ride reports went to the back of the line .... which is why you are reading this a week out instead of two - three days.

While at the cafe we met a couple from Turkey living in Costa Rica, Can wanted to know about riding in CA so we had a chat for an hour or so.

The weather had caved in so we set off back to the hostel getting a little wet on the way back, mum nature was leasing hell fury on the Volcan with flashes of lightning lighting up the sky like a football stadium at night, spectacular to say the least.

Back safely at the hostel we had just ordered tea, there was an epic flash of lightning followed by a heart stopping thump of thunder, the lights went bright then dead then came back on at about 1/4 strength for 5 minutes then dead, total dark, total silence and total defiance, the bar staff grabbed torches, cellphones, candles and anything that would glow in the dark.

I made it back to our room, grabbed out sonim phone with a big LED light on it and our headtorch which was freshly charged luckily.

As tea was being cooked on gas it was still all go so we had tea with a candle and my headtorch in the restaurant so that was something new.:rofl

Looking out across the island was spooky with not a light to be seen, it was an early night which was needed anyway.

Our final morning arrives after an unusual night of lights on lights off, I switched all the lights off so that took care of that but both fans were left on in the hope the power comes back on, it did at one stage for around 20 seconds ... the fans started up WOHHOH ... bizt gone.:huh

So our final morning we packed up, the volcan had popped its head out of the cloud for us and unveiled a beauty of epic proportions so out with the camera it was, what a treat to see it so clear.:clap

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Heading off to the ferry was funny, it seemed to be a “take your cattle and horses for a walk“ day so our plenty of time got skinnier quite quickly although we still had plenty of time.

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A different view of the volcan was offered from here and the scars were unreal, the camera can not do it justice.

Parking in the middle of the airport runway ... as ya do :D

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A closeup of the scars

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Leaving the island we headed back to Granada as Ellen had left her shorts there, we also had some repairs to do to gloves, zips and walking polls so a fixit session again.

Slightly more relaxed fitting things in on this ferry :D

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Maya tied up

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Bye bye Ometepe

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Noel900r 2 Aug 2013 12:56

Getting a real geographical education,carry on,mostly over man flu,might even get in a ride tomorrow.

Rob Hall 2 Aug 2013 13:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by Noel900r (Post 431071)
Guy's as i'm home with the man flu ,really enjoyed catching up again with your travels,Only a kiwi would get the Auckland jibe,:lol2:Wonderful story /photo's as always.

lamps.
Sometimes in NZ, we Aucklanders stroll out at night, and stare down into the Southern Territories, South of the Bombay Hills.
We hear the lowing of cattle, and see the fitful guttering of moss and lambfat lamps.
And sometimes, if the wind is just right, we smell the turnips boiled by the serfs as their staple diet......

And then finish our canapes and chardonay, and chat .......

Rob

Two Moto Kiwis 2 Aug 2013 21:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by Noel900r (Post 431281)
Getting a real geographical education,carry on,mostly over man flu,might even get in a ride tomorrow.

Good to hear you are out of intensive care mate ... it was close :clap:

Good therapy to twist the grip. ... best medicine around!

Two Moto Kiwis 2 Aug 2013 21:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rob Hall (Post 431282)
we Aucklanders stroll out at night, and stare down into the Southern Territories, South of the Bombay Hills.

Rob

Argh another one gazing down to where they wonna be, tell ya what Rob since we are mates, I will put in a good word at customs and immigration for you then you can grab your passport and come down to New Zealand from Auckland :rofl: :eek3:

Seriously, I enjoy Auckland and I even have friends there that are human, great cafe scene and above Auckland at Tane Mahuta tree is spectacular, we will come up again just to visit.

Noel900r 2 Aug 2013 23:49

Put the cat among the pigeons there,thought Wellington would be more of an issue to you kiwi's?

Two Moto Kiwis 3 Aug 2013 01:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by Noel900r (Post 431347)
Put the cat among the pigeons there,thought Wellington would be more of an issue to you kiwi's?

... nar just ribbing him cos we can ... say with you guys in OZ ... our brothers!! :thumbup1:

Two Moto Kiwis 3 Aug 2013 15:21

Granada - Again And Playa Majagual
 
With Ellen leaving her only shorts at the tree house we headed back to Granada.

Back one step, on the way down to the island I noticed a Police check point and it was on my mind when heading back to Granada, strategically I let a local go past in an old bomb of a car and we putted along behind him for about 5 minutes before coming upon the Police check point, giving him about a 100 meter lead and sure enough the Police flag him down and we sail through ..... WOH HOH...I love it when a plan comes together.

We picked up Ellens shorts from the treehouse, thanks Damon it was big help getting those back, we then headed onwards to Granada staying at a hotel/hostel that was owned by an amigo from the place on the island, great place, quiet, secure parking for the moto and right in the market area to get stuff fixed.

My walking poles got nailed back together, my gloves got patches put on them and my new rain jacket got a new zipper as that broke.

We bought some street fud totaling 80 C which is about $3.20 for both of us and it was too much to be honest, we also bought a large watermelon for 30 C which is about $1.20 so it was a kings and queens banquet night again.

We woke to a hell hot sunny day, I picked up my gloves which had been repaired wrong and we started to pack up, I went to put SPOT on Maya and the retainer clip just snapped off in my hand, looks like the sun had made it brittle.

Leaving Granada we headed back down the CA1 Pan Am very weary of Police and associated troubles that go with it again sneaking through unscathed with some tactical allowing of overtaking.

Our next destination was Playa Majagual were Moderndaydrifter (from ADV), Daniel and his good lady Megan run the Castaway hostel.

The road was good but windy which it seems to be as there are lots of wind turbines along the route.

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On leaving Rivas we got stuck behind buses and trucks, a local on a 250 Honda overtook us and went around the centre island, seeing him do that we followed suit, we only just pulled back in and the Police came head on, we got filthy looks but they carried on luckily, I also stepped it up to get to our turnoff in case they radioed ahead.

It is the only thing frustrating about Nicaragua is the trucks can dordle along at 30 - 40 km / hr in and 80 posted area and no one is allowed to pass on the solid yellow line which there is a LOT of, but the trucks won’t pull aside to let anyone through either.

The rest of the trip was uneventful and we found our way easily to Daniels place.

These are the coordinates for anyone running a GPS ... too easy.

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We got set up in our room, beach front literally, nothing between us and the ocean other than the beach, what a cool location and a perfect adventure rider quiet hideaway and rest spot.

The surf was up with lot of surfers out, just not right here

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The weather was set for a great sunset and we were not let down at all, the colours on the beach were amazing and vibrant.

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Beach graffiti

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The early evening colours were very cool with shades and shadows transforming your view

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A small boat tied up

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Later on that evening we had a good thunder storm with heavy rain so we managed to refill all our water bottles with rainwater off the roof ... perfecto.

The following day was rest and relaxing, walk along the beach and some net stuff, again I wanted to get a ride report out, Ellen did hers first, I just started and the internet died, seems to be the way for me at the moment.

When we went to leave from Ometepe the SPOT mount died so that wa on my list to fix so I Kiwied it :D:D

I have remade the new Kiwi hold it using the electrical tester heated on a gas stove to make holes (we have no drill) for the new and improved strap courtesy of the china walking stick fix the previous day.

Auwh man....

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Just a simple fix to melt the plastic outa the way for a new ring

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Cut two new slots by melting the plastic outa the for the strap

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Put the new strap in

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Put the spot back in ......sweetas bro!!...c h o i c e eh. :clap

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Now this is under strick international patent so it is a secret and I am only telling you guys :rofl

I managed to snap some shots of local pussy too .... though they didn’t seem impressed.

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(sorry Mike no bunnies):evil

Later that afternoon we took a quick hike to the peninsula top that overlooks Daniel bay, this my friend is what he made us put up with.

The front of Daniels place

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Now Daniel is offering free camping for ADVers for a couple of days, if you want a room as we did you pay for that (cos it is his livelyhood) but you get the room and a brotherly luv ADV rate and believe me all accommodation around the area is reasonably expensive so Daniel is really looking after the RTW/ADV community.

While there an overland vehicle turned up, nice machine it is too.

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While relaxing a local was sitting in a tree just watching on, ... I think he needs a shave.

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Ellen made a coffee in the morning, the coffee machine exploded ... literally, no one was hurt but yeah

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I keep telling Ellen to use water like eveyone else rather than petrol :rofl

Saying goodbye to Daniel we set off for Costa Rica

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Two Moto Kiwis 4 Aug 2013 22:59

Majagual To Costa Rica Border To Playa Del Coco
 
Leaving Playa Majagual the road was wet and very slippery, there was a 10 mm (3/8 inch for you imperialists ) on top of hard pack wet clay so it was take it easy time till we hit the tar again or at least dryer roads.

Getting to San Juan Del Sur we headed out to the beach for a quick look and the supermarket to stock up on fud and rum.

Once this part of our mission was complete we headed off toward the Costa Rican border where we were swamped with helpers in an instant so we politely rode through them to the real guys who couldn’t be bothered helping so we know we had the right guys.

Passports, TVIP, smiles and few larfs and they all changed in an instant, one guy tried cleaning the rego plate and got dirty hands so gave up and took our word for it. :rofl

Clocking out was easy for us but the TVIP was the highest and longest level of bollix anywhere in Central America, so when we got to the last point of exit we had to go back and get and 100 more stamps and signatures etc .... it was barmy.

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After all the signoffs NOT one actually check our Vin or plate and we headed back to the exit with our now heavily gratified TVIP and they were all happy. :clap

Entering Costa Rica the line was probably 100 plus people long and we thought ouwh no but they had all booths going and were very efficient so Ellen was through in about 20 minutes while Maya and I sat in the car park.

Then the TVIP again, Ellen had to go back and forth 0.5 km each way each time they wanted something as the buildings are far apart.

Nothing difficult just time consuming.

Our chance to get the graffiti stampartists a run for their money, Phil and Jaynes sticker already there.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...co/file-11.jpg

Once all the formalities were complete off to destination Play Del Coco to meet up with Can again, with no street names or number is makes things interesting so we did do a little round and round asking and narrowing it in before getting there but he has a house on the beach and it is in a stunning location.

We met Can and his good lady at Ometepe island in Nicaragua after headed spotted Maya and we had a chat about motos and trips.

So we stayed two nights there relaxing taking the place in, again chatting about bikes, gear, travel etc so that was great, CAn also has a kayak and allowed us to take it out onto the sea, most excellent and really enjoyable.

Play Del Coco is an awesome wee spot. one of many beautiful beaches in Costa Rica.

Can lent us his Kayak for a hoon which was cool.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...co/file-12.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...co/file-15.jpg

Sunset from Cans place

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...0Coco/file.jpg

Stunning orange colours come out right at the last minute, Ellen in the water swimming

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...oco/file-4.jpg

A thunder and lightning storm was brewing ... I tried to catch the lightning but it was way too fast.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...oco/file-3.jpg

Noel900r 6 Aug 2013 12:00

love the photos on this episode,there's some spectacular country there about's.:D

Two Moto Kiwis 7 Aug 2013 02:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by Noel900r (Post 431718)
love the photos on this episode,there's some spectacular country there about's.:D

Heya Noel

Mate it is a beautiful part of the world so not hard to take good photos :D ... kinda cheating really. :thumbup1:

Two Moto Kiwis 7 Aug 2013 02:25

Playa Del Coco to Arenal.
 
Saying goodbye to Can we continued on our way partly costal then across inland mainly to have a tickitour of Costa Rica and stay off the Pan Am which is loaded with trucks and buses.

Long Way Round ... without the glamour :rofl

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...cotoArenal.jpg

So we turned off heading toward another beach, the road turned to dirt and was neat fun, at one stage we forded a small river and Maya had a quick wash.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...nal/file-1.jpg

The track was mostly hard packed clay so we were lucky it was dry or it would have been very difficult and greasy.

We came across a quad bike tour group and unfortunately one lady had binned hers and was crying and in an awkward position, we stopped and offered help but they already had help on the way.

I am no doctor and don’t profess to be but the position of her body and the way she was being held I think she too had done some ribs in as she was struggling with the breathing thing just like I was, hopefully she will be ok.

Continuing on our way we toured through the country side on a mixture of dirt and tar, through beach bays and small towns.

Also a big bridge which crosses the Rio Tempisque and is quite big so there is a huge bridge in the middle of nowhere ... well at least somewhere :D

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...nal/file-4.jpg

A quick pose ... it was hot

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...nal/file-5.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...nal/file-7.jpg

The countryside was very green and lush, the roads conditions superb

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...nal/file-3.jpg

We made it to Arenal where we had organised a couch surf that came highly recommended by Phil an Jane and they were right, really nice people and great fun.

Arriving at Arenal we went to the German Bakery, now this is quite simply and adventure bikers must stop, world class coffee, sandwiches with german sausage etc ... outstanding.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...al/file-40.jpg

There is a window, it is covered in RTW biker stickers so with peer pressure we had to do the same, gotta put TMK with the big names :rofl

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...al/file-51.jpg

Lunch, what can I say, simply outstanding

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...al/file-18.jpg

The weather started to cave in a little, then a lot, then completely, we thought we would sit it out but this came in for keeps so we rode to our couchsurf and got drenched.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...al/file-13.jpg

Two Moto Kiwis 7 Aug 2013 03:12

Arenal
 
Having arrived amidst torrential rain we got sorted, hung up our riding gear and turned into humans.

Kim and family greeted us and welcomed us in, Ellen took control of the kitchen and knocked up enough tucker for the whole tribe with thumbs up from the audience.

Chats and giggles, discussions on Facebook etc and that closed off the evening.

The following morning after some chatter and coffee Ellen and I went for a ride to the hot stream, nice place with a few locals kicking around ... and free ... Kiwis price.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...al/file-26.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...al/file-25.jpg

Muchas locals

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...al/file-28.jpg

After soaking in the stream for about an hour or so and turning into prunes we headed out to go home, I cleverly dropped my T shirt into the river which was really smart so I had to cram that back into the pannier and only wear my jacket back.

We got back to Maya and once again there was quite a crowd around her looking at the alien, a young fella with a small bike had a flatty, we lent him our pump but the hole in the tube was too big to hold air which was a shame, our patch kit was 35 km away at the house so we couldn’t offer any more help.

The ride around the side of the lake is awesome with very few straights so I really enjoyed it, I had to keep my mind on the job tho with missing road and mud slides from the previous nights deluge.

Trees down

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...al/file-29.jpg

Mudslide across the road

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...al/file-30.jpg

Unfortunately on the way back we lost our second carbon tank protector, this time the glue sticking to the tank but letting go on the back of the CF cover so she is a goneburger.:cry

We also stopped at a place called the Toad Hall and there was a Toucan

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...al/file-35.jpg

Also spotted this on the table

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...al/file-34.jpg

And Pierres cuzzie looking happy

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...al/file-37.jpg

The road in a previous deluge had disappeared ...completely, the rebuild still going on.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...al/file-44.jpg

Returning home we walked to the shop with Kim and the girls to get supplies for the night, Sushi was discussed and all eyes lit up so Ellens skills came into play again with smoked chicken and avocado as the base ... what a treat.

The family,

Kim, tribal elder and head honcho, hostess supreme

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...al/file-21.jpg

Tayler, elder daughter....main cause of trouble :rofl (j/k)

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...al/file-19.jpg

Aubrie, youngest ...looking to be main cause of trouble :D (j/k)

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...al/file-20.jpg

Included in the making was lessons for the girls in both making and cutting, a successful round yet again accompanied by Flore de Cana rum.

Tayler (the older daughter) did and interview with us which was great fun too, almost felt like being on a show.

Chubby Bunny, something new to the Kiwis, plan is to stuff as many marshmellows in your mouth and still say Chubby Bunny .... seems I am a big mouth ... at least I wasn't gonna let two young ladies kick my bum :rofl

Further discussions on facebook etc and how we were going to do it was all brought to a stop when the light flickered flashed and everything went dead.

I was already dark outside so only for the light from the computer screen that we could se anything so out with the phone with an LED torch and my head torch again providing all the light we needed.

After going outside and it being pitch black everyone decided it was bed time, I sat up for about another 1/2 hour keeping and eye out the front window just to make sure there was no funny business going on but the coast was clear so I too hit the sack.

An early morning start being it was Monday and Kim had to go to work so kisses, hugs and thank you were had, Ellen had made enough Sushi for everyone to have roll each for lunch and I had precut it to make life easy.

We then packed up and left the girls to their school work.

Aubrie making sure we leave without nicking anything :rofl

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...al/file-23.jpg

Adios amigas

Huge thanks to Kim, Tayler and Aubrie for having us stay and best for your future travels too.

Next destination, Orosi.

Two Moto Kiwis 8 Aug 2013 00:23

Arenal To Orosi
 
Leaving Arenal we headed around Lake Arenal, wanting to avoid the Pan Am and have a better look around Costa Rica we took a rounded approach.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...si/file-26.jpg

Our destination was Orosi so we went through Angeles Norte over to Siquirres across through Turrialba to Orosi, Mrs Garmin sent us down some shortcuts... we had a good look around the countryside.:rofl

The road was very busy in places to Siquirres but from there over to Orosi we has great roads with a lot less traffic and a really cool ride.

Lunch was had in Siquirres in cento park just after a huge downpour which we had ridden through, sushi was on ... yummo and a what a treat after a reasonable ride.

The section of road with little traffic and great surface was excellent and we really enjoyed the ride to Orosi.

In Orosi we had arranged to stay at Costa Rica Moto, Freddys place. Costa Rica Motorradtouren

He has a caravan and a unit which is a great setup and they run the Swiss Bakery in town to, perfect, quiet and Maya was under cover, we arrived and just in time to get in before the rain set in.

Our casa

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...si/file-22.jpg

Being Central America it thundered for about 20 minutes then cleared again so we made a trip to the supermarket to get fud.

That night was some writing and early to bed from the 300 km day.

Orosi for the day we headed out for a walk across the swing bridge.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...osi/file-2.jpg

The road goes straight up the ridge, literally, in between when walking along the road a small dog decided he didn’t like us and wanted to have a go at us, he was quite upset, I was at the ready with my walking sticks but luckily he decided he didn’t fancy a mouth full of these and backed off ....grumpy little bugga!!

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...osi/file-5.jpg

Reaching the top we had great view of the valley and we had a chat to some locals before heading back down to town to the bakery for lunch which included coffees and a chocolate buttoned heavy bread kinda thingy which was beautiful, coupled with some butter it was bloody good.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...si/file-10.jpg

A typical back street in Orosi, no street names or numbers.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...si/file-13.jpg

Lunch .. mmmmmm

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...si/file-15.jpg

After refueling us we walked up to a waterfall ....well kinda, we got ourselves lost and didn’t find it in the end, again we came across another angry dog, this time it was a big dog and he was playing for keeps.

Again with my walking sticks I kept him at bay while Ellen passed safely and briskly, he was very unhappy and I wasn’t that pleased either to be fair.:eek1

We had to return down the same track so this time Ellen grabbed two sharp sticks if needed for war and we made a game plan if things got nasty.

I was first up again and yeap he was pretty angry with heckles up and all.

Again I held him at bay while Ellen went passed behind me, the dog got closer and more threatening so I took a more threatening prod at him with one stick and raised the other stick very threateningly and luckily he backed off a bit, keeping an eye on him I was walking backwards down the hill watching my step and him at the same time.:eek1:eek1

We got far enough away to feel okay but I must admit I was a little apprehensive to say to the least and happy to be passed the war zone.

Heading back down the track we saw the rocks that had fossilized shells in them

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...si/file-16.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...si/file-19.jpg

So at the elevation of 1400 meters or 4500 feet this used to be sea base, mum nature at work big time which shows you just how active this area is with volcans etc.

Done with bad dog day we headed back to town and back to our unit dropping by the supermarket again for some fud for tea....and some chocolate for a treat....Cadburys nothing less!!

All in all a great day out, coulda done without the dogs, particularly the big one but all well and ended well.

Chocolate, now you see it :evil

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...Orosi/file.jpg

...now you don't :eek1

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...osi/file-1.jpg

They have BIG mice here in Costa Rica capable of opening fridge doors :rofl

Ok, 9.26 pm, I am off to bed to dream of Halle Berry again.

markharf 8 Aug 2013 01:22

Basic defensive technique for Developing World dogs: pick up a rock, or pretend to. They're generally trained from an early age by rock-throwing owners, youth, neighbors and passers-by. It's been working for me all over Asia, Africa and Latin America (but no guarantees).

When it comes to defending against Halle Berry, I've got nothing.

Two Moto Kiwis 8 Aug 2013 03:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by markharf (Post 431925)
Basic defensive technique for Developing World dogs: pick up a rock, or pretend to. They're generally trained from an early age by rock-throwing owners, youth, neighbors and passers-by. It's been working for me all over Asia, Africa and Latin America (but no guarantees).

When it comes to defending against Halle Berry, I've got nothing.

Mate the word rabies kept going through my mind but I was more than prepared to feed it a mouth full of walking stick as was Ellen following by bone breaking hits with her big sticks and my walking sticks.

Never thought of a rock, actually tho it was a clay track anyway so no rocks there but good point to remember.

Arh Halle, no need for defence she can bite me anytime anywhere bier

Two Moto Kiwis 8 Aug 2013 03:08

Orosi To Somewhere Then Uvita
 
So the day started early, woken by dogs barking I couldn’t get back to sleep so and early breaky and coffee and some other activities kicked the day into gear.

We said goodbyes at the bakery and headed off.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...Uvita/file.jpg

Plan was to go around lake Cachi, first we had to cross the bridge under repair, we waited for about 10 minutes then crossed and carried on only to be stopped by another lot of roadworks, they said upward of 2 hours wait and we still may not be able to get through.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ita/file-2.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ita/file-3.jpg

Riding past welders ,grinder, sandblasting equipment it was all a bit narrow sometimes

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ita/file-6.jpg

We made a decision to backtrack and skip the lake after about another 10 minute wait, so back to the bridge under repair and wait another 10 minutes.

Slalom back through all the gear

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ita/file-7.jpg

So about half an hour riding and half an hour waiting we were back in town an hour later no further ahead.

Carrying on we took the main drag up and out, we needed fuel and today seemed to be l”let fill up our car day” and there were queues for petrol at 5 - 6 stations we passed, finally we found one not too busy, not sure why the other stations were so crowded.

Leaving town we followed two moto cops and they were riding side by side, in, on and over the double yellows and all!!

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ta/file-10.jpg

And on the other side :D

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ta/file-11.jpg

To be fair tho they were passing slow joes and at one point they overtook a bus, the first rode passed and signaled his buddy to come through cos it was a blind corner at this stage and he takes off, his buddy then signals us to come on through on the blind corner (they could see tho at that stage) so that was pretty cool.

When we turned off we gave them a big wave and they waved back.

This is where the somewhere comes into our trip, somehow we managed to muck things up and the road we turned down was the road we were meant to come up so the wheel fell off it completely and we ended up in the middle of nowhere with some bloody good views.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ta/file-12.jpg

The road was fantastic

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ta/file-13.jpg

It got narrower but still very nice and on the top of a ridge

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ta/file-17.jpg

Then we got lost .. how .... I dunno :evil :rofl

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ta/file-18.jpg

Steep corners

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ta/file-19.jpg

Drink of water, some nuts and we backtracked realising our mistake and soon got back on track although now well behind where we thought we would be.

Wasn't too long and we were making our way back to the supermoto circuit

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ta/file-20.jpg

The road climbed to 3345 meters or nearly 11000 feet, it went down to 12 degrees and we froze our arses off, a stop and put on warm gear was needed then we carried on all the way down to 600 meters and were sweating hard so had to strip it all back off again.

Ellen took the photo at 3328 meters

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ta/file-21.jpg

We rode into a wall of fog and we wofted in and out till about 2500 meters

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ta/file-22.jpg

Lunch was in order, I was very tired from not much sleep, an early start and from wrestling Maya on the steep little shingle backroads which were steep.

This was was we did in the end

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ta/file-23.jpg

From there we continued down to the coast and headed south to Uvita where we ended up for the night.O

Two Moto Kiwis 18 Aug 2013 15:39

Uvita To David
 
A very small place with a cool hostel, highlight of the night was the plugin mosquito machine that is designed for 110 volts I plugged into a 240 volt socket and promptly melted the unit and filled our room up with burnt plastic smelling smoke .... things are not labelled very well here.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...Uvita/file.jpg

Maya partially under cover which was cool as we had a big rain storm

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ita/file-1.jpg

Next day started out leisurely with an easy walk to a waterfall with Ellen taking full advantage.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ita/file-3.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ita/file-6.jpg

With an easy ride down to the border, mission one, get out of Costa Rica, ticked that box!, mission two find a front tyre for Maya as our MT21 dissolved extremely fast at just on 5000 km ... the first one did 10647km.

On the way to the border we thought we were going to get a wash but we rode on the edge of it.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...vid/file-3.jpg

Only a small short lived shower

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...vid/file-4.jpg

Searching for a tyre was no bueno, could find everything else but what we wanted, no prob these things have thick canvas.:rofl

Getting into Panama was painless with the usual tenfold too much paper but all the same.

Final part of the mission was to find Norm who had kindly offered us a bed for the night, Norm lives about 15 km short of David and we found him with ease.

Discussions were had about the state of the front tyre, Norm had to go to town to find out about his alternator so we all piled into his ute and went into David, a moto shop there said they had a 90/90-21 so we headed there.

We did manage to pick up a MT90 which was a little more road orientated than we wanted but it was that or risk not making Panama, the risk was high with the rate it had dissolved so although we paid a slight premium it was worth it and Norm had made the effort to get us there too, one would have to say our starts had aligned that day.

Back to Norms I changed the tyre with three tyre irons and a glass of whiskey .... job done with a new rim tape as well, flash as Michael Jackson.

That night we took Norm our for tea to a local restaurant, more rum was had discussing life then back home for a coupla roadies before hitting the sack.

A few shots of Norms paradise, really cool place :clap

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...vid/file-5.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...id/file-14.jpg

Some very artistic talent here

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...id/file-17.jpg

Most people have a dog ..:D, check out this little fella

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...id/file-11.jpg

The following morning was goodbyes to Norm and off to Panama, Norm thank you for having us stay.......although we were away earlyish which was disturbing :eek1 but we had a 430 km ride, something not done by us since leaving Canada, the road was straight down the Pan Am, mostly good condition with a few patchwork places.

Moto cops EVERYWHERE with speed traps etc, fortunately we didn’t attract any attention and made it through unscathed.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...David/file.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...vid/file-1.jpg

Two Moto Kiwis 18 Aug 2013 22:18

David To Panama
 
The first sight of panama

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ity/file-1.jpg

Arriving at out Hostel was easy and we soon established that three out of the five bikes crossing the Darien were there too so that made life easy.

The following morning was “The Canal”, something I had been looking forward to for a long time and I was not disappointed at all.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...re/file-35.jpg

We arrived right on 9.00 am when they open the gates, a container ship was already sitting in the loch so we watched it go through.

Next in line was a bulk bin rice ship, now I could blast on how cool it is, we took these photos to show the sequence, we trimmed it right back so as not to bore you but it is an incredible feet of engineering being finished in 1913 on its second attempt after the French originally failed with 20000 lost lives to tropical diseases etc.

So I will apologize to those who may not be interested in this amazing engineering marvel ..... but today was ALL about ME !!

Enjoy

First off, this dude landed on the camera and pushed in for a good view.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...flore/file.jpg

Boating lining up to enter

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...re/file-28.jpg

Guide engines

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...re/file-40.jpg

Boat lined up and doors opening

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...re/file-44.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...re/file-46.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...re/file-48.jpg

Gates closing

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...re/file-53.jpg

Boat sitting in loch ready to fill, gates closed

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...re/file-55.jpg

Water level raising

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...re/file-58.jpg

Full height

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...re/file-61.jpg

Next gates open

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...re/file-65.jpg

Boat moving through

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...re/file-71.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...re/file-74.jpg

Doors shut after tug boats go through

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...re/file-77.jpg

Note the level of the water

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...re/file-79.jpg

Full

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...re/file-81.jpg

And away it goes, this is my satisfied face

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...re/file-15.jpg

We were here :D ... as the boat sales off to the next loch

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...re/file-16.jpg

The next loch is a series of three

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...re/file-33.jpg

All in all it was outstanding and I left feeling like I had seen it properly, a nice feeling :clap

Noel900r 19 Aug 2013 12:06

My father sailed on such ships
 
He has sailed there a number of time's ,you think that is a cool piece of engineering ,you want to go through the lock's on the yangze river in china,the three gorges dam is an incredible piece of engineering.

otr002 19 Aug 2013 13:24

Quote:

Originally Posted by Noel900r (Post 433295)
He has sailed there a number of time's ,you think that is a cool piece of engineering ,you want to go through the lock's on the yangze river in china,the three gorges dam is an incredible piece of engineering.

As an engineer it saddens me to see such engineering as the cost of the environment. Since the dam was finished, the healthy population of the Yangtze River Dolphin (Baiji) has been wiped out (now extinct) and the Yangtze River Finless Porpoise all but destroyed, and is expected to be extinct within 5 years.
It is believed that between 20 and 30 species of aquatic wildlife will be gone from the Yangtze in the next 10 years………….shame shame shame :thumbdown:

Oh and they are going to build two more mega dams on the upper reaches of the Yangtze destroying a 400km ecological reserve…..

Rob Hall 20 Aug 2013 13:50

Yep, dogs have been friends/foes with humans for thousands of years, and know quite a bit aqbout sticks and stones.
Guns? No. Swords, knives? No, just short sticks to them.
But one thing thing that you might try: if you have a telescopic monopod or tripod, the extension can fly out and give the beast a nasty crack.
Non - lethal and quite hard on you equipment, but it does drive the beast away. Most dogs are quite cowardly if you best them.
Rob

Two Moto Kiwis 20 Aug 2013 23:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by Noel900r (Post 433295)
He has sailed there a number of time's ,you think that is a cool piece of engineering ,you want to go through the lock's on the yangze river in china,the three gorges dam is an incredible piece of engineering.

Heya Noel

Yes it is an incredible piece of engineering, it might have been a good idea at the time but I agree with otr002 it is an ecological disaster.

When projects like that come at too bigger cost to its surroundings and wild life I question its worth.

It is definitely an incredible piece of engineering but also a disaster unfortunately at least in my mind.

Pitty the world isn't perfect where you can easily balance engineering and progress nicely with ecology and unfortunately (and Ellen being Chinese agrees whole heartedly) that the Chinese are not user friendly in that department.

Two Moto Kiwis 20 Aug 2013 23:04

Quote:

Originally Posted by otr002 (Post 433301)
As an engineer it saddens me to see such engineering as the cost of the environment. Since the dam was finished, the healthy population of the Yangtze River Dolphin (Baiji) has been wiped out (now extinct) and the Yangtze River Finless Porpoise all but destroyed, and is expected to be extinct within 5 years.
It is believed that between 20 and 30 species of aquatic wildlife will be gone from the Yangtze in the next 10 years………….shame shame shame :thumbdown:

Oh and they are going to build two more mega dams on the upper reaches of the Yangtze destroying a 400km ecological reserve…..

Heya otr022

See above my reply to Noel, I am stuck in the middle between engineering marvels and ecology, like you I like to see balance and I don't think it was gained on that project unfortunately.

Two Moto Kiwis 20 Aug 2013 23:08

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rob Hall (Post 433437)
Yep, dogs have been friends/foes with humans for thousands of years, and know quite a bit aqbout sticks and stones.
Guns? No. Swords, knives? No, just short sticks to them.
But one thing thing that you might try: if you have a telescopic monopod or tripod, the extension can fly out and give the beast a nasty crack.
Non - lethal and quite hard on you equipment, but it does drive the beast away. Most dogs are quite cowardly if you best them.
Rob

Heya Rob, yeah I had a boxer for 13 years named Tara, she was my shadow and never had a bad hair day.

The central american dogs seem a bit different and intent on chasing motos and us on foot.

Luckily I stood the ground and didn't show (too much) fear or I think we would have been had for lunch :nono:

One thing I miss being on the road in the pets and having a loyal dog to play with.

Two Moto Kiwis 21 Aug 2013 00:19

Panama To San Blass
 
After the buzz of the canal the next morning was off to the Stahlratte at Carti, San Blass so in reality it was only getting better.

Start with a quick dunny stop ... and some wall glory :D

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...g%201/file.jpg

The ride out of Panama was easy enough going around lots of roadworks and a small shower.

We turned of the main drag heading toward Carti when Oliver and Heather disappeared from our mirrors, I turned around and went back and only a minute down the road Oliver was pushing their bike with a blowout on the rear.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...201/file-9.jpg

Also Olivers front guard has come off its mount and was merrily trying to burn its way to nothing ... it wasn't his day.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...01/file-10.jpg

We set to and removed the dead tube which was totally stuffed, we had a spare 21 inch tube so we tucked that back in only to have that blow another 5 km up the road so at that point we left them there to alert Ludwig to the issue and organise a ute to pick them up.

Although I am not doing much here I did muck and help spoon it on.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...01/file-11.jpg

The road out to San Blass was interesting and steepish in some places and beautiful rain forest

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...01/file-22.jpg

Arriving at Carti we were greeted by the other riders.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...01/file-29.jpg

Out of riding gear and time to strip Maya of house and contents to load her onto the Stahlratte.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...01/file-30.jpg

The dreaded moment arrives when Maya is suspended by string :eek1

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...01/file-33.jpg

Away she goes

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Into her bunkroom where she lives for the next 5 days, I will add at this point she was double wrapped by the crew and extremely well covered .... you guys rock!! :clap

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...01/file-50.jpg

Next installment day one .......

Two Moto Kiwis 21 Aug 2013 00:49

San Blass And The Kuna People
 
We were all loaded safe and onboard, it was some time later when Oilver and Heather arrived after the hard day.

Maya was in her bunkroom with her roommates

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...02/file-24.jpg

A pic left out from before, all the girls lined up ready to be lifted into their bunkroom

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...02/file-13.jpg

That night we were staying on an island where the local Kuna people live, it was an interesting experience, for some reason our host family decided to talk to 3.40 am and pretty much there are no walls, several attempts to be pleasant to ask for quite failed then I got loud with a bang on the door.... I got 2 hours sleep

Our chatty host

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...02/file-28.jpg

Rain brewing behind the boat

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Finally Heather and Oliver made it :clap

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The local people milling around

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The storm didn't quite make it to us, we only got a few drops

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...02/file-43.jpg

Our room with a sand floor and a local cat

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...02/file-47.jpg

Yes those are outhouses so your #2s drop straight into the oceon, the fish eat it all up

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...02/file-49.jpg

Our accommodation ... cool places :clap

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...02/file-69.jpg

Some local Kuna out on their boat

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Lunch on the Stahratte, fud was second to none!!!

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The window of fame aboard the Stahlratte, stuck with the famous people now :rofl

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...02/file-61.jpg

The Stahlratte started off great and only got better, these guys know how to make a great trip of it :clap

Two Moto Kiwis 21 Aug 2013 13:32

Stahlratte Day 2
 
Well what can a man say, on a boat, stinkin hot, sunny, with moto, with wife, with new amigos.

Not a lot to be honest, will let the pics speak for us.

Bit of snorkeling

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...202/file-6.jpg

Two tree island

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SOS

Scoota On Stahlratte :eek1 :clap

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...02/file-58.jpg

Lost

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...02/file-59.jpg

Rope swing

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Me on the rope swing ....seriously cool fun

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Awful ... just awful :rofl

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No enjoyment being had ... just trying to keep our heads above water....trying times :huh :D

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...02/file-47.jpg

The camera started playing up again, I was focusing on the wood steps ....

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...02/file-52.jpg

Our boss Ludwig ... not sure what else to say :D

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...02/file-16.jpg

Looking up the main mast, Oliver is in the crows nest

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...02/file-30.jpg

Stowaway up front in the ropes

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...02/file-31.jpg

Noel900r 24 Aug 2013 04:33

Very beautiful area ,nice photo's the ship must have a bit of age as i can see rivets in the hull .

Two Moto Kiwis 24 Aug 2013 17:16

Quote:

Originally Posted by Noel900r (Post 433947)
Very beautiful area ,nice photo's the ship must have a bit of age as i can see rivets in the hull .

Heya Noel, the ship is 110 years old and in great shape, she is engineered and hand crafted very well, she has had restoration done and has been done well, they can have up to 16 motos on the deck!!!

Two Moto Kiwis 24 Aug 2013 17:17

Stahlratte Day 3
 
Yet again my typing will get lost so only a brief description of what was happening

Rain on the horizon with a local Kuna boat

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...03/file-17.jpg

An island under a spotlight of sun amidst a cover of rain clouds

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...y%203/file.jpg

People up the crows nest

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...203/file-2.jpg

A cool firey sunset

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...203/file-9.jpg

Last of the sun going down

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Two Moto Kiwis 24 Aug 2013 17:43

Stahlratte Day 4
 
Ok. last day on the Stahlratte, a selection of photos from early morning to night, today was a sailing day only.

This is my stunned mullet 5.30 am I need my coffee look :rofl

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...04/file-30.jpg

Sails up we are off!!!

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Would you trust this man knowing he has only had one coffee :huh :eek1
:eek1

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The Stahlratte heart beating away .... she runs sweet

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Camera starting playing up again :D

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Twice ... must get that fixed :eek1

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Things are looking up :D

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Our final sunset on the Stahlratte, no disappointment either

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Cartagena here we come, f i n a l l y we make it to South America, long time coming after bike trouble, Ellens accident, then my accident, thank you to the gods of motorcycling and travel to get us too here plus or minus in one piece.:clap:clap:clap:clap:clap

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...04/file-24.jpg

Two Moto Kiwis 25 Aug 2013 00:38

Cartagena
 
(in third person stalker voice) Welcome to America Sur Mr & Mrs Delis, we have waiting for you .... a long time :D

Finishing with the Stahlratte we set to getting our immigration and customs sorted out and help Oliver with a new tube etc.

After Olivers blowout x 2 we needed a new front tube and he wanted a front and rear so off to the local we go, it was hot and carrying a rear transalp wheel in the heat was an effort.

Here is a picture of dedication

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...agena/file.jpg

.... or maybe despair

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ena/file-1.jpg

Wheel was fitted back on on the Stahlratte ready for unloading the next day.

Anxious moments for the owner ....:eek1

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ena/file-3.jpg

No worries, the boys have never lost a bike yet ... or so they told us :rofl :eek1

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Maya almost onto terra firma

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Bikes on land and owners relieved, thanks to Ludwig and crew, no stuffing about and very well done indeed.

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Ludwig uses a helper, to be fair he was not very helpful and stuffed everything up, everyones bike were yellow and black, passport numbers were wrong, VIN numbers were wrong.

On top of that a sloth would win a running race against him, we did get finished and sorted but after some WTF moments and all leaving with ill feelings so not good, I will add that he is very separate from Ludwigs operation.

Next was our insurance, because the helper stuffed us up and made us late we arrived late at the insurance office and Friday afternoon, beginning of a long weekend they were not enthused but we managed to get everything sorted about 5 minutes after closing time.

Bikes and us all legal we went to the Hostel, we had booked in at Marmallena and being straight the owner is not a nice guy, the price for the room was advertised at one price then they tried to charge us another, that got sorted, I would NOT recommend Marmallena Cartegena to anyone, the one in Panama however was great .

This was the only cool thing about the hostel, this fella, he could talk more Spanish than us :D

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...na/file-11.jpg
Next day we clocked out and went around the corner, cheaper, air cond, wifi etc and friendly owners.

While in Cartagena we washed the motos thoroughly, Ludwigs crew did a great job covering them then when we rode into town from the boat to find 100 mm deep seawater on the streets for upward of 600 meters at a time.

Taking in the sights over the weekend, the was one of the main attractions in Cartagena

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Yes that is a horse in the park having a munch, there were three of them

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Some brightly coloured buildings

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Monday was D day to leave and head north with Oliver and Heather .... more then

Noel900r 25 Aug 2013 01:28

Andi mate when a camera malfunctions at sea there's little you can do but go with it.some of your best photo's yet ,love the one of the parrot.:D Going to my first HU meeting next month can not wait.

Two Moto Kiwis 26 Aug 2013 04:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by Noel900r (Post 434059)
Andi mate when a camera malfunctions at sea there's little you can do but go with it.

Heya Noel ... yeap nothing you can do and nowhere to fix it ... funny thing is it is playing really bad in Colombia :cool4: ... must be atmospheric conditions :eek3:

Two Moto Kiwis 26 Aug 2013 04:01

Cartagena to Taganga
 
Monday morning, day of riots, unrest and protests about the southern mines, we were advised against leaving because of roadblocks etc, we left anyway and had no issues whatsoever, the hotsposts were a long way from us and semed to be southern Colombian based.

First stop was the mud volcano, really cool and seriously buoyant ..... no way you could drown in it cos you can't sink, Oliver and Heather were first in.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...nga/file-1.jpg

Then we piled in beside them

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...nga/file-5.jpg

The traffic was getting heavier so time to hop out .... 20 years younger as well :rofl .... and yes that lady in the left hand corner does have big boobs :evil

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...nga/file-9.jpg

Oliver ... .scruffy bastid

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Heather ... nice tan :D

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Me...scruffier bastid

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Ellen .. from yello to brown

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After bathing in mud and having a spot of lunch we headed to destination, Taganga a small diving based town, neat place, gravel streets, swimming and walking with a bit of rum drinking thrown in.

Oliver and Heather on their Transalp

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And yes it was hot

Oliver scuffing the fan

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We spent two night here with Oliver and Heather before leaving them as they were sticking around to do some scuba diving.

Two Moto Kiwis 26 Aug 2013 04:18

Taganga The Big Day Out
 
So, nice place, great weather, togs, shoes, hat.

We walked around from the main bay round to the neighbouring bays, found ourselves a nice small beach free of humans.

Such a nice day but the water must be corrosive and our togs fell off .... :evil ... didn't know her bum was so white :eek1

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ga/file-14.jpg

Taganga from the track

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ganga/file.jpg

The intrepid asian explorer going where no man has even been before

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One of the spendie resorts

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Flash resorts tucked in here

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Some very nice spots

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Small islands dot the coast

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Two Moto Kiwis 28 Aug 2013 00:44

Page Shortening post
 
Too lo n g

Two Moto Kiwis 28 Aug 2013 00:45

Page Shortening post
 
Last one

Two Moto Kiwis 28 Aug 2013 03:28

Taganga To El Banco
 
Leaving Taganga we headed off to El Banco, a small town on a monster river.

The ride was uneventful other than the road being laden with buses and trucks so we spent most of our day overtaking.

Arriving at El Banco it was nearly 40 degs and sticky, luckily we managed to bag a room with AC again so that was a life saver after Taganga. :clap

Maya created a LOT of interest with a swarm of small motos around her with Colombian faces in awe, it was really cool.

One guy hopped on her (I said he could) and his face lit up and he didn’t want to get off onto his little moto. :rofl

For weeks I had been trying to get a piece of metal for our POV camera, finally we manage to find a place, they had alloy angle and the guy cut it, drilled it and gave it to us gratis .... I like this town. :D

New sunnies were next on the list, right next door was huge selection of glasses so I got some polarized ones, end of an era for the blue ones but I later discovered the 3D effect with the pinlock :huh.

That evening when were returned the hotel owner said an Ozzie had come in to see us after seeing Maya, just then Michael an Irish guy living in Oz appeared again so we all went out for a bite and chat swapping information and scribbling on maps.

We returned to his lodgings across the road from us, he is on 30 year anniversary F800GS ... me likey a lot :clap

Next morning we headed out for breaky, eggs and ariba with coffee, set us up for what turned into a very long day.

To start ..... the road :clap :freaky

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Two Moto Kiwis 28 Aug 2013 03:48

Reflection Time - The Centro America Sum Up And The Heart Speaks
 
First off, crossing the US border into Mexico is seriously dangerous as you will be subjected to great food, friendly people and so much to see and do ... so be careful....you have been warned. :D

And having said that, in the nearly 4 months we were in Mexico we only scratched it, we could very easily spend another year or more floating around taking it in.

Mexico for us as you know we had a trip changing event of Ellens crash which lead to the purchase of Maya, although not a smooth transaction on that with a very deceitful seller we now have the bugs ironed out, last thing for me to get my head to accept is the valve check then I will be 100 % happy in my mind.

Maya is now solid (barring the valve check which should come up good) and is taking us to places we could have only imagined, within our ride report you will have read all about these places but remember you guys really only get the highlights of the happenings, if I wrote about everything to date we would never be able to ride again and you would be bored shitless....and I might be in jail. :eek1

The ADV people that we met, Steve, Jim, Spencer, Gary, you guys all rock and made our trip so much better, Gary we blame you for liking Mexico city, something I thought I would never say.

Mexico, you get the big tick as a must do and I would recommend it to anyone....even Americans, is there trouble ...yes ... name a country that does not?, will you find trouble? ONLY if you look for it or be complacent, we did not feel threatened once and the police actually went beyond their call of duty for us and NOT once asked for money or a bribe, have chat with them with a smile .... they are human too. :clap

Ok, Cuba, having time to look reflect back on our experience we very much echo the same sentiments as Gene and Neda (lightcycle), while we really enjoyed Cuba for its differentness it also wore us down with people just saying give me money, it really took the shine off it and it is far from eco friendly as they label themselves, step away from the tourist areas to the local area and pretty much they are living in their own rubbish dump.

One thing we have established is they (anyone) can be poor but there is no need for them to live in a cesspit of their own rubbish which they do, they go out of their way to buy that bottle of coke but they won’t go out of the way to dispose of it properly but will just biff it on the ground, same for everything, wrappers, paper anything they don’t want.:huh

Would we go to Cuba again?, I would say no there are plenty of other places to explore and having had a good look from Alaska down to Cuba I would go back to anywhere Mexico north before going to Cuba again.

So, Cuba, 1/2 a tick and that box is ticked and can be archived.

Belice, not as expensive as people say, english speaking (easy for us gringo types:rofl) and cool places to visit, it was different to what we expected or envisaged but for the better, we thoroughly enjoyed our time there and will go back for more, particularly for diving and snorkeling.

We have to thank Sjoerd Bakker too for some great tips, again something from someone who can make your trip better, thanks man.:freaky

Belice gets the big tick and offers a lot more than you think, you just have to get off the main drag and enjoy it, pretty much the same in every country.

Guatemala, even though I broke 4 ribs and was laid up for a bit I cannot speak highly enough of the place, there is only a few places on our trip so far that can honestly say I could live there, Antigua, Guatemala is one of them, I will note here we are NOT unhappy with where we live which is not the short straw, Lake Wanaka Tourism Official Site for Wanaka, New Zealand

We spent a total of just over 3 months in Guatemala, 6 weeks for broken ribs but we also made good use of that time including GC which was surprising good, Ellen did NOT want to go to GC after seeing Guatemalan Police program on TV in New Zealand!!!.:eek1

A huge thanks to Julio and Luisa, also to Juan in Xela for a boys day out and getting lost ....we need to do that again!!!!:clap

Semuc Champey ....wow, Flores ... very nice, Volcan Pacaya ... stunning, Antigua ... so much more to offer that the gringo main square, get out and look around.

Julio ... careful mate we might be your new neighbour :wink:

Guatemala gets the double tick and we will definitely be back, there is so much to explore it is unreal, also a very active country geologically which is something that interests me greatly.

Ok, next on the chopping block, El Salvador, to me this sits side by side with Guatemala (because it does:evil) as far as big ticks goes, we really loved El Salvador which for a lot of travellers seems to be a blast through and carry on country, there is so much to see and do, beautiful roads fit for Moto GP and adventure riding galore, scenery everywhere.

Our experience like all the above was enhanced by the locals and fello ADVers, they make the stay so much better with local info you cannot buy on GPS or maps.

Will we be back?, hell yeah, Mario you will have to put up with us again down the track so based on that it gets the double tick too.

Huge thanks to Mario, the finca, the bike oil, the company, ... outstanding. :freaky

Honduras, we did the double border day like most, although we had no issues whatsoever we have heard of many who have although all our paperwork is pristine and spot on so it does take some heat out of the argument although we did not see one single police person the whole day, even at the borders I just pulled the piss out of the money changers and played with them, turned their pressure cooker approach into a big giggle, right or wrong approach I don’t know but it worked well for me.

Same with the famous Jose and his brother Ronnie, big smiles and no thanks, play on his words make them larf while making him realize there wasn’t a cent for him from us, no problem.....a big smile is worth a lot of chatter!!!!

I have my reservations but I would still like to see Honduras now knowing half their police force was sacked from corruption as they try and tidy their act up for travellers and tourists, will we get there, I will say yes as we will be back to Belice, Guatemala and El Salvador, although this area is border heavy they really are not that bad when armed with water and a smile :clap.

Nicaragua, another place we loved .. although small Ometepe Island was really cool, again the fello ADVers made our stay better having a good look around, there is a lot there to explore and I now know we did NOT allow enough time so we will be back there too, Nicaragua gets the big tick too.

Huge thanks to Jurgen, Aaron, Daniel and Salavdor for making our stay so cool.

Costa Rica, beautiful, very nice people and great place, again with committing to the Stahlratte date we felt we didn't have quite enough time to really get into the depths of it so I for one would love to have a better look so coming back to Central America it is on the list to complete, Costa Rica also gets the big tick.

Panama, ground hog day with timing, great place and I would love to have more of a look like Costa Rica, I did however get to see the Panama Canal in action so for me that really ticked that box however there is much more to see and do.

Another huge thanks to Norm for hosting us and helping get new front rubber for Maya.

Conclusion

Our honest opinion is that Central America (plus and including Mexico) is a great place and seriously well worth spending a lot of time in, having spent nearly 9 months in total there we feel we have only seen enough to make us want to go back, we believe it is unfairly tagged as very dangerous.

Rainy season ... the Central American thunder and lightning storms from rainy season provide a magnificent display virtually every day, don’t be afraid of rainy season cos it is still very warm even when you get dumped on, most storms are over and done quickly.

In New Zealand you freeze ya balls off if it rains so this was very pleasant for us, in fact it was a nice reprieve from the heat, also this is called winter time so if you don’t want super duper heat then May, June, July, August is your time to come through.

So to sum up if you have any reservations about anywhere south of the US border chuck them in the rubbish tin cos you won’t need them, think about what you want to do and see and get into it....ouwh and allow plenty of time.

The Central American people across the board are just normal people living their normal lives and despite what the US news (sorry US based ADVers) ((but this is our heart speaks)) (((so all is discussed openly))) ((((we still love the US too)))) would portray is they are all bandits, thugs, thieves and lowlifes .... this is very very wrong....well until we got their :evil:rofl

Although not quite Central America our only “so so” place was Cuba which is a frustrating place for many reasons but I am not one for politics etc and I don’t want to be, politics is only one aspect of our “so so” including the “give me money” multiple times daily in your face everyday, in the end you just want to tell them to **** off but you feel you have to be nice to them .......ARGH (insert multiple Headbangs here) ...shame it has to be like that :cry

Ok, that is our sum up and how we see it after experiencing it first hand, good bad and otherwise, others have different experiences and different approaches to us however this is team TMKs record of events which across the board have left us with a big smile looking over Central America.

Finishing Central America was then capped off by the Stahlratte experience ... we heard good things so we had good expectations and these were exceeded in 10 fold.

For the sailing, make the time, make new mates, make new travel companions, make the trip on the Stahlratte you won’t regret it, thanks Ludwig and crew.

.....now we are off to cause trouble in South America :evil

sellheim 28 Aug 2013 06:57

Thanks 2MC,K1W1's,

Its a shame life's so short with so much to absorb.

I wholeheartedly agree, you always need more time to absorb and explore these grand places on earth. But you seemed like you got a good skinfull of MEX and CAM than most from your reports, and I'm sure many of us NAPR'S (not at present riders) are envious and very impressed at what you've achieved so far, south of the border.

Its also good to see other riders appreciating the authorities are "human too". I'd always treated these people like people and gotten nothing but normal treatment. Maybe the riders before us, in the last whatever years were the test dummies for the corrupt guys as the countries were becoming more politically stable? or even were maybe just too naive to their opportunistic advances. But it's a good report, and credit to the officials you've encountered who have shown their country proud and or probably been grilled by their superiors looking to move forward, by others past mistakes.

Interesting too on your honest Cuba report, eco friendly I guess is an easy, powerful word the government feels it wants to polish over the poo poo nuggets. Thank you for highlighting the extreme beggar situation across the country, from all other friends who made the journey there for a few days-weeks, they seemed to dust over those points-maybe just to justify their happy Facebook photos . It seems like an all out cry from the people, that the government feels to ignore - it also sounds awfully similar to my friends and colleagues in the DRC, at the sign of a non-original that money is plentiful and required by that person.

Conclusion: On your conclusion, yeah Mexico and CAM (if you can make time) well deserves your attention. When available, I would re-do mexico and particularly CAM on a heart beat. And in hindsight, may just have only just a big loop from the states down to panama and back up - instead to Argentina. But that's just a past life.

Liked the: "So to sum up if you have any reservations about anywhere south of the US border chuck them in the rubbish tin cos you won’t need them, think about what you want to do and see and get into it....ouwh and allow plenty of time".

If needed. its a hell of a good time still to hammer through the americas, but if you have some time I envy you, do your research and give it some time.

cheers
dom

markharf 28 Aug 2013 08:12

I'm trying to stay out of the way because this is a ride report, not a pub discussion. But any comparison of "begging" in Cuba to life as it's lived in DRC is pure, unadulterated nonsense. I've been to both, and they're about as far apart as can be on almost any measure you could name.

[/knee-jerk irritation]

Continuing to enjoy the Andi and Ellen reports--words and photographs. Lots of familiar places and happenings, with lots more making me think "Why didn't I go there/do that/think of the same when I had my chance(s)?

best,

Mark

Two Moto Kiwis 28 Aug 2013 15:26

Quote:

Originally Posted by sellheim (Post 434474)
Thanks 2MC,K1W1's,

Its a shame life's so short with so much to absorb.

I wholeheartedly agree, you always need more time to absorb and explore these grand places on earth. But you seemed like you got a good skinfull of MEX and CAM than most from your reports, and I'm sure many of us NAPR'S (not at present riders) are envious and very impressed at what you've achieved so far, south of the border.

Its also good to see other riders appreciating the authorities are "human too". I'd always treated these people like people and gotten nothing but normal treatment. Maybe the riders before us, in the last whatever years were the test dummies for the corrupt guys as the countries were becoming more politically stable? or even were maybe just too naive to their opportunistic advances. But it's a good report, and credit to the officials you've encountered who have shown their country proud and or probably been grilled by their superiors looking to move forward, by others past mistakes.

Interesting too on your honest Cuba report, eco friendly I guess is an easy, powerful word the government feels it wants to polish over the poo poo nuggets. Thank you for highlighting the extreme beggar situation across the country, from all other friends who made the journey there for a few days-weeks, they seemed to dust over those points-maybe just to justify their happy Facebook photos . It seems like an all out cry from the people, that the government feels to ignore - it also sounds awfully similar to my friends and colleagues in the DRC, at the sign of a non-original that money is plentiful and required by that person.

Conclusion: On your conclusion, yeah Mexico and CAM (if you can make time) well deserves your attention. When available, I would re-do mexico and particularly CAM on a heart beat. And in hindsight, may just have only just a big loop from the states down to panama and back up - instead to Argentina. But that's just a past life.

Liked the: "So to sum up if you have any reservations about anywhere south of the US border chuck them in the rubbish tin cos you won’t need them, think about what you want to do and see and get into it....ouwh and allow plenty of time".

If needed. its a hell of a good time still to hammer through the americas, but if you have some time I envy you, do your research and give it some time.

cheers
dom

Thanks for your words Dom, as I said we only write it to how we find it and others will differ.

Certainly life is too short to see everything ... just gotta see what you can and see it well and while we feel we have spent good time in CAM and Mex but yeah much more to see yet.

Two Moto Kiwis 28 Aug 2013 15:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by markharf (Post 434479)
I'm trying to stay out of the way because this is a ride report, not a pub discussion. But any comparison of "begging" in Cuba to life as it's lived in DRC is pure, unadulterated nonsense. I've been to both, and they're about as far apart as can be on almost any measure you could name.

[/knee-jerk irritation]

Continuing to enjoy the Andi and Ellen reports--words and photographs. Lots of familiar places and happenings, with lots more making me think "Why didn't I go there/do that/think of the same when I had my chance(s)?

best,

Mark

Heya Mark, cheers for your props too, we are continuing to enjoy it and it seems to be getting better, really looking forward to Peru and more so Bolivia.

We have never been to DRC so can't comment on their situation but yes Cuba has a sorta love hate thing going on for us.

We did enjoy it but it is tiring being hammered by "give me money" in ya face everyday, maybe I am more of a target being blonde but Gene and Neda aren't and they found a similar thing.

Two Moto Kiwis 29 Aug 2013 01:17

El Banco To Los Santos
 
Destination was Barichara which we never made due a to a slight navigational error.

We did however have a beautiful ride before ending up nowhere close to where we supposed to be.

A small town on the top of a cliff face, Mrs.Garmin shows a road down to Jordan, so the Los Santos to Jordan road I imagine would be doable on a DRZ400 or smaller with no house and contents as there is only a swingbridge at the bottom, the road goes down this part of the face.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ra/file-52.jpg

Staying there the night we decided our game plan to backtrack a little and head down through Jordan the following day

The town surrounded by trees

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ra/file-53.jpg

In the morning we went for a short walk up through farmlands and back roads as we had no rush.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ra/file-50.jpg

We left late morning .... that is when the fun started :eek1

Two Moto Kiwis 29 Aug 2013 02:27

Los Santos To Jordan To Barichara
 
Some days your best intentions get completely undone and you have a great day getting lost and a great time getting unlost ... today was one of those :rofl

It started with having to navigate around heavy roadworks in town down a street that was triangular shape narrowing down to Mayandahalf wide (that is our new measurement) :rofl

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ara/file-3.jpg

Leaving Los Santos we had to back track a little, Mrs Garmin set up a route which may have existed yonks ago but the road from Los Santos down to Jordan was somewhat of a goat track and not suitable for a SE two and gear.

The road into Los Santos is great with epic views of of the surrounding valleys so no biggy, a very enjoyable ride.

We came across our turn off to Jordon, it wasn’t quite where it was meant to be (should have known better at that point) but we followed it down anyway, spectacular views of massive cliffs with a waterfall which didn’t even reach the ground other that in mist....what a treat.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ra/file-27.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ra/file-29.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ra/file-61.jpg

Spoke to you about it ....

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ra/file-59.jpg

The road was step and narrow in places, in some case if you fell off the side it would be terminal :eek1

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ra/file-30.jpg

This is the power lines for the valley strung up in the trees

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ra/file-33.jpg

We cherished these concrete sections as they were smooth although only on the steep sections

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ra/file-39.jpg

Most of the road was like this so not too bad

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ra/file-37.jpg

Continuing down to the bottom it was a neat ride and at the bottom we turned right into Jordan ..... there was no-one there other than military police and a coupla stragglers, you could have fired a canon ball through the middle and hit nothing!!

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ra/file-44.jpg

Just me ..... spooky

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ra/file-66.jpg

This is the bridge at the bottom from Los Santos

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ra/file-71.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ra/file-72.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ra/file-74.jpg

There was a very friendly militar there so we had a chat with him, took some photos and carried on our merry way which got narrower and rougher, boggy creek crossings and all the hallmarks of being in the wrong place heading to nowhere....which was correct.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ra/file-82.jpg

Stopping to ask a local he larfed and said no way through and we needed to go up the road from Jordan ... i.e the one we had just come down on, back through the boggy creeks a rutted roads ..... at least we got to see what it was like the other way.:rofl ... it was about 40 degrees too :eek1

We were so close, probably only 6km as the crow flies but snookered by a HUGE gorge .....

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ra/file-56.jpg

Back up to the highway which was a pretty damn good race track to be fair, so far the Colombian roads are just a meca for fun and all pretty good nic.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ara/file-7.jpg

Huge views to be had

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ra/file-55.jpg

Finally we made it to Barichara one day later than planned ... no worries we got to see some other pretty cool stuff.

sellheim 29 Aug 2013 23:55

Just Around The Corner!
 
Awesome ride pics,
There is definitely some cheeky good little rides up that way

Your just around the corner from me, haha
If you guys are going to be near Bucara this weekend, I've got some Antipodean friends I'm showing around the sights this Saturday and going paragliding just near town - we'll be heading to San Gil for rafting, and some adventure sports this Sunday and Monday too - send us a message if we can intersect

cheers.

dom

Noel900r 31 Aug 2013 11:37

Great ride report as always,Iv'e made some of my best discoveries when "lost"
looks like it was worth the trouble .You know i'm yet to go to a country and find it the place portrayed in the media.:D

Two Moto Kiwis 1 Sep 2013 23:53

Quote:

Originally Posted by sellheim (Post 434735)
Awesome ride pics,
There is definitely some cheeky good little rides up that way

Your just around the corner from me, haha
If you guys are going to be near Bucara this weekend, I've got some Antipodean friends I'm showing around the sights this Saturday and going paragliding just near town - we'll be heading to San Gil for rafting, and some adventure sports this Sunday and Monday too - send us a message if we can intersect

cheers.

dom

Heya dom, the SE is in R2R getting a valve check etc so we are out of action moto wise but thanks for the offer anyway, we may be back up your way yet.

Two Moto Kiwis 1 Sep 2013 23:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by Noel900r (Post 434893)
Great ride report as always,Iv'e made some of my best discoveries when "lost"
looks like it was worth the trouble .You know i'm yet to go to a country and find it the place portrayed in the media.:D

Heya Noel

Thanks man, appreciated as usual, yeap some of the most fun days we have had are when we get lost.

This is the first country we have been in when it is all over the news too .... exciting times!!!

Two Moto Kiwis 1 Sep 2013 23:56

Barichara .. Relaxing Town
 
Well, what a nice place to say the least, finally making it there after making funny and entertaining detours we decided to take a break for a day and stay a coupla nights.

The town is small, very quiet and a must for a quite retreat, there is also a new cafe opened up and their coffee and food was very very good, wifi as well.

So we found our place to stay with the help of a teenage girl who was curious about Ellens presence and simply wanted to help, Colombians rock!!!

Arriving at our accommodation was very easy, didn't have to dodge much traffic

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ra/file-51.jpg

The hotel had a narrow door, time to ping the cases off in order to get Maya in the door, add to that a coupla steps of a 200 - 250 mm high it was a slight trials ride to get in, once at the door we discovered it was narrower than the handlebars!!

No prob just a little stunt riding and we were in, park her up in the lounge ... just like home, she makes a good foot rest :clap. :rofl

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ra/file-44.jpg

Wandering around town was very laid back and quiet, lots of small shops very nice people, when you get in behind the doors there is some serious art talent there with some pretty cool stuff, the one that interested me the most being and engineering head was this lion, incredibly beautiful piece of work and made from all sorts, I would love to have the talent to build something like that.

Few pics of details, sorry non-engineering heads.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ra/file-17.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ra/file-49.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ra/file-50.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ra/file-20.jpg

There was lots of other stuff too

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ra/file-21.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ra/file-22.jpg

While we were there there was several weddings on so we watched one, Ellen was running around taking photos more than their official photographer.

Lady in red ... pretty but she had a look on her face that was longer than the horse above ... not sure why.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ra/file-35.jpg

This is what locals do so I thought I would have a crack at it too, overrated I think.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ra/file-41.jpg

I got a height advantage over him ... not by much tho :rofl

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ra/file-39.jpg

At the new cafe we were in fact their very first customers firstly for coffee then for lunch

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ara/file-6.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ara/file-2.jpg

The start of lunch :clap

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ara/file-1.jpg

A nice coffee

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ara/file-3.jpg

The town is very nice, huge paving slabs on the road

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...chara/file.jpg

Everything is well kept and tidy, very nice indeed

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ra/file-14.jpg

Lots of restorations going on of older buildings too

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ra/file-23.jpg

Next mission San Gill ...

Two Moto Kiwis 2 Sep 2013 00:00

Barichara To Puerto Berrio
 
Leaving Barichara we only had we only had 10 mil in our pocket which is about $5 bucks.:huh ... it was gettin skinny cos the ATM wouldnt' recognise our card.

Destination big town Santa Gill for tank and money or we were not going anywhere, our bank cards don’t have chips so we are very limited to funds we can get and where we can get it.

With tank and ATM stuff done we carried on towards Puerto Berrio, turning off at Barbosa we left the main drag and climbed to 2600 meters into the fog line .... suddenly 20 deg felt cold!!

The main road

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ios/file-1.jpg

Biggest obstacle of the day was these fellas not wantin to leave their road kill lunch on the road, we very nearly hit one :eek1

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ios/file-2.jpg

Crossing many roadwork patches and getting into Landazuri we stopped for a quick break and water and to ask directions out of the town, we would not have been more that two minutes and we were swamped with curious people looking at us and the bike, this also happened in El Banco.

Amidst cheers and smiles from the crowd we felt like rockstars ....two minutes later we were back to normal 8-) :rofl

A nice view of the road from the top .. the top case came loose, not sure if I tightened it up properly or not :huh

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ios/file-3.jpg

Most of the day was pretty easy but there was one reasonbly lengthy section where the SE shone brightly, the smaller bikes etc no match ...for once!!:rofl

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ios/file-4.jpg

Arriving at Puerto Berrio we stopped just out of the main square, Ellen did a walkabout to find a hotel while Maya and I gathered a huge crowd of curious onlookers, there was 20 - 30 people gathered when Ellen returned, so much so it looked like a big street fight or something had started so the Police came along wanting to know what the drama was.

Next thing we know we are taken to the police station escorted by their best to see the commander who talks english, he in turn said ok, this is a great restaurant over here, I will take you to a hotel, you can leave you bike their, I will have an armed guard watch it during the night.

So we got taken around in royalty, to the hotel with AC and Wifi, take Maya along the street outside the second Police station and have our guard appointed, next thing we know the street was locked off at each end of the block with Police tape and cones, no through traffic was allowed ... classic.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ios/file-6.jpg

So Maya was locked and under cover with not one but TWO personal guardian angels with machine guns looking after her :eek1:eek1.... not quite sure what else to say other than outstanding service from them.

Here is Puerto Berio's MIB, left was a Sargent, left (looking at the pic) of me was THE top dog, he fired the orders and people jumped, me, cop who had just come off duty.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ios/file-7.jpg

We walked at night, the town was safe and the people all very friendly, I think with the protests on they were being cautious and me being the only whiteyfoo in town they enjoyed showing their strength, ability and flexing the muscles to show who is boss.

Two Moto Kiwis 2 Sep 2013 03:12

Puerto Bennio To Guatape
 
After a night of thunder storms and blaring bar music to wee hours we woke up to a nice day, Mayas guards still standing there with their machine guns although they had taken down their road blocks.

Here I am, getting permission to take her away :rofl ... buts its my bike mam .... step away from the moto but its mine ouwh ok :evil

She was very friendly as they all were, see the fellos face on the small moto, this is a common scene over here.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...atape/file.jpg

Thankfully when I took Mayas cover off the guards me a staunch heads up with small smiles so I carried on and unlocked then took her back to the hotel to saddle up.

The river at Puerto Bennio is huge

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ape/file-1.jpg

Leaving Puerto Bennio many small moto riders were turning theirs heads at the lights etc, it still seemed vary alien to them so we suspect this is not a big ADV campover place.

Carrying on down the there were beautiful curves and great riding, we had our turn off marked for our spot which when we arrived did not even exist!!! .... it is on our paper map, google maps and GPS but I can you with authority there is just a massive wall of earth to crash into, no stress we will just carry on and take another turn somewhere as there are other roads shown everywhere, we just wanted to get off the main drag.

Continuing on we turned off onto a gnarly little back road, down to first and second with large lumps of rocks, one or two even hitting the bashplate on Maya and she is not low slung ...I had reservations at first as we had 50 km to do and that would have been hard work.

So here we are, just as the road started improving, riding from a hard backroad thinking we are hard and doing the bigger challenge :eek1... suddenly we pull up behind a very modern bus thumping away on the road :huh... WTF this is the sticks ... no this is everyday life in this part of Colombia.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ape/file-8.jpg

Next up a cattle truck, then a fruit truck .... gezz so much for a back road and going where not man had gone before.:eek1 :rofl

The road then got better from a one lane lumpy track into almost two lane, still bumpy and potholed but allowed 3 & 4 gear at times and easy passing for the bus and trucks.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ape/file-9.jpg

Then bang, dirt ends, super moto track starts :huh in the middle of nowwhere :rofl

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...pe/file-11.jpg

We rock into a small town again (insert alien text from above) and people stared at us but only from curiosity, this coupled with whistles and waves was cool.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...pe/file-12.jpg

Through the road we went, following signs and GPS in part, it was beautiful with outstanding views all round, WAY better than the main road (which is a back road anyway) then our reward a seriously cool waterfall in the middle of nowhere on the Santo road.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ape/file-7.jpg

Making our way onward we rode over a huge slip which had been temporarily / permanent fixed then we popped out onto a super moto road again and rolled on into Guatape.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...pe/file-14.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ape/file-2.jpg

The road improved more as we started getting out into more open counrtry

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...pe/file-15.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...pe/file-16.jpg

All in all a great balance of offroady based stuff and tarseal road miles, this was another one of those days where there was some WTF and great views rolled into one making for a great days travel. :clap

Two Moto Kiwis 7 Sep 2013 02:59

Guatape And The Great Staircase
 
Today we walked to the famous crack in the rock stair with 740 steps, looking over the side was little daunting at times as the rock is undercut.

This was a swing bridge that crosses the road on the way.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ape/file-8.jpg

The target for the day La Piedra Del Peñol

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...pe/file-10.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ape/file-7.jpg

There was some money parked on the water, a mobile pub/bar/dance rig ... this was still while walking up to the rock

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...pe/file-11.jpg

The whole stair is concrete pinned to the rock base, as an engineering type I was hoping the guys had done their job properly :eek1.... in some places there are reinforcing bars poking out into nothing!! DOH :eek1:eek1:eek1

The stats if you are interested

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...pe/file-12.jpg

Well nothing fell down and the view from top is incredible to say the least
As usual no need to carry water etc up as there is 5-6 shops up at the top that will sell you as much sugar as you need

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...pe/file-26.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...pe/file-13.jpg

The town of Guatape in the distance

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...pe/file-14.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...pe/file-30.jpg

The old stair

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...pe/file-16.jpg

The new stair

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...pe/file-31.jpg

I wasn't feeling the greatest with gut cramps just enough to knock my energy down and at 2000 meters high air is already thinner so to be honest I struggled a bit and was not feeling very shiny at the top, a sit down down, some water and a sit in the sun and all was good ..... or at least not as bad as I still had my gut cramps.

Looking up the stair ..... conquered that one with a saw guts... even had time for an ADV salute for you fellas :D ... this just proves we are thinking of you!! :evil

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...pe/file-33.jpg

If you look hard you can see Ellen

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...pe/file-34.jpg

We made it back down no prob and carried on back into town.

Next morning I was still feeling second - hand so it was a lay down and rest day, ring in sick and bunk work....not much to say other than poo!!!

The following morning I was feeling better and we were packing to leave, the cleaner lady said were are you going?, we replied Medellin for moto servicing, no you’re not she said, the road is closed with riots and truck blockades ..... ouwh ... ok we will stay another day then.

Maya was bored so we took her for a ride to El Panol then back to Guatape for lunch and out to San Rafael and back for a look, nice wee ride.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...pe/file-55.jpg

Ellen liked this picture in a cafe....

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...pe/file-42.jpg

We also stopped at the staircase to get some pics with Maya, we were here :clap

Mirock and GPStair art :rofl

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...pe/file-53.jpg

Spokeart, nothing beats a dirty rim shot

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...pe/file-49.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...pe/file-54.jpg

That afternoon and early evening I took Maya to a small moto shop and did a headlight earth wiring job putting a switch in the earth wire to turn off the headlight and leave only the LEDs going, reason being more power gets to the fans and they spin up much faster emptying the heat out of the engine more efficiently and at 38 - 40 degrees any extra or better cooling is welcomed.

The town of Guatape is beautiful, great place to visit and a nice place to be stuck when there are riots, blockades, protests and other normal stuff, even if you wonna be sick there it is a cool hangout :D

Note the guys tok tok is on his wall too

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ape/file-2.jpg

Colours, no shortage here, I love this place is it so colourful, laidback and tidy :clap

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ape/file-3.jpg

The church with rain cloud looming

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...pe/file-58.jpg

Next mission to try and get to Medellin....

Two Moto Kiwis 7 Sep 2013 03:35

Guatape To Medellin
 
In the morning we talked to the local feds and asked about the riots and road closures, they said the road was open to motos but the stone throwers were still out in force and to be careful, we left and took the back road specifically avoiding the main roads where all the trouble was.

Turns out we rode right into a hot zone which was pretty much everywhere anyway ... literally with burning truck tyres and rubbish everywhere from the riots, we were literally riding through fire pits, some of which were still red hot with burning rubber embers so it was a little unnerving for a while.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ellin/file.jpg

Ellen managed to snipe a coupla pics but sticking a camera out in their face as we rode through the middle with Militars and Policia on one side and rioters on the other wasn’t a great idea.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...lin/file-1.jpg

This was common sight Policia everywhere in their own mobs

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...lin/file-2.jpg

Km of trucks lined up on the other side of the war zone

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...lin/file-4.jpg

Lots of military checkpoints and guards watching on, we were lucky we didn't encounter any stone throwers but the atmosphere was pretty stark in San Antonio.

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We arrived safe and sound at Medellin and with a little help got our accommodation sorted only a block away from R2R.

Two Moto Kiwis 9 Sep 2013 21:42

Medellin
 
Pronounced "Med a jean" for ingrish speakas :evil

We arrived in Medellin no problem and found R2R KTM, with welcoming arms and smiles we unloaded Maya, they looked after our riding gear and panniers then set to giving Maya the best bath she has ever had, seriously thorough.

The biggest worry then was looking like a mid life crisis rider on a shiny new KTM .... with dirty cases.:rofl

Sorting out our hostel we discovered that Medellin was a little more pricy than the smaller towns and Poblado is the nicer area of Medellin as well, we found an ok place so that was cool.

We also had three interesting neighbours, local tranys.

They were pretty cool, for boys they had great shapes, there was a mirror in the hallway right outside our room, one decided to practice her moves in front of the mirror checking all manoeuvres, dropping her top to nipple line and pulling her dress up too .. well anyway.:eek1

So Ellen and I sat there on our bed minding our own business with quite the side show going on, one decided I needed to see a booby peek so gave me a flash .... (insert red face here)....didn't know how to take that :rofl:rofl:rofl

They were all smiles and good neighbours cos when we went to bed they hit the town so it was very quiet.

OK, Medellin,

Wandering on up around the place we walked around to the famous Shamrock pub owned by Al (theturtleshead on ADV) and bumped into Oliver and Heather again so we had chats with them, we met Al that night for a couple of drinks.

Al and I managed an ADV salute, again showing the luv here :evil

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We met the following morning and got some great advice on places to go etc which was outstanding, Al giving instructions while I listen on

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Olivers bike was still not running right from the debuild/rebuild in Costa Rica and several things were starting to need attention .... after well over 80000 miles of RTW travel it is to be expected.

With Maya in good hands and us not having a lot to do other than enjoy the place I offered to help Oliver with his bike so that following morning down at motoshop we set too, I removed the dead disc pads on the rear and pulled both front and rear caliper sets apart for a monster clean and piston de-seize job.

All pistons were pitted and corroded to some degree so out with the fine steel wool to clean them up, Oliver then took them home that night to polish them with cardboard.

We did the valve clearances in order to get them right and so we could check the compressions, checking the compressions netted bad news for Oliver with only 105 PSI in the pots, they are supposed to be up to 225 PSI or minimum 160 PSI or below is rebuild time so he got his moneys worth out of the rings.

An executive decision was made to pull the motor out and have Federico wave his magic wand over the motor and do rings and a valve cut job so out she came, maybe an hours work and we had the motor out on the floor ready for the top end job.

I could not do anything from there on so the following day was a relax and look around Medellin day.

With Maya it was a case of go back and see progress and see what she needed for good health while at the R2R gym, turns out the 4 inlet shims were all in spec and the 4 exhaust shim were out of spec with too bigger clearance so they ordered shims and got them on the way.

Our rear shock had been knocking too, I thought it was a bush so we had a spare on board, while riding on the trip I noticed it was noisier when cold and quieter when hot which pointed to gas and fluid being wrong, turns out I was right as the guys from R2R pulled the shock to find the bushes ok so they sent the shock away for a full service, clean, new oil and new nitrogen.

All good.

A look around Medellin saw us take the metro system which includes a cable car ride to the top of the hill.

You are literally going through peoples back yard and over subdivisions ... kinda pervy really :D

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Looking straight down on the street from the cabel car, sorry for the scrappy pick but the windows are scratched to hell

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The city view

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On the way there is the famous square which is full of works donated by the famous artist Fernando Botero know for the "fat" works.

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While in Medellin we caught up with Elelns ex class mate from the University days and had a lunch and catchup.

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When I went back to R2R KTM I had a look around the gear section and spotted these, got an orange mate in NZ who needs these

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All in all Medellin was a very nice place and has a KTM dealer worthy of international recommendation, more on that in the next installment of Two Dodgy Kiwis :D

Two Moto Kiwis 10 Sep 2013 01:02

R2R (Ready 2 Race) KTM of Medellin - Legends!!
 
A plug for R2R KTM, so often you only hear of people who are unhappy about something and we have been in that boat too, so credit where it is due to R2R, KTM dealerships in New Zealand take note!!!

R2R welcomed us in which was very nice.

We were trying to organise ourselves and get shit together as far as a hotel that we can take our gear to then store the moto when Maya was done, this was proving difficult for moto storage.

Andres the shop manager helped us pointing us in the right direction and also said no problem with storing our panniers and riding gear, also when Maya was finished we could leave her in the shop at night and take her out during the day .... perfect we only needed to get us sorted which we did, we grabbed some shorts, tees and toilet gear and sorted.

R2R set to and gave Maya the wash of her life, when we returned she was so clean I looked straight past her to see where she was!! ... oooops :shog

Their tech then opened her up and measured all the clearances, the 4 inlets were in spec and the 4 exhausts were all out of spec with to bigger gap so we got 4 new shims.

While the open heart surgery was being done they fitted the flexijets which means we can adjust the primary mixture circuit to help compensate for altitude changes from sea level to 5600 metres or about 18000 ft.

The rear shock had been knocking as well so we had this re oiled and re gased so now it works better and does not knock anymore so that is one more thing off my mind.

They have gear and accessories and a good selection of it

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...20R2R/file.jpg

Maya shiny and new at the edge of the workshop

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A showroom full of bikes, many V twins including the new 1190 and 1190 R

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On top of all of that Andres noted I was wearing a smelly shirt and we were discussing what to wash, he appeared shortly afterward with a R2R KTM tee shirt with a 950 Super Enduro on the front, gratis, my first official piece of KTM bling which I had to travel to South America to get :rofl ... it has now become my best going out shirt.:D

I also needed some new summer gloves having tortured my Klim gloves to near death, I have already repaired them in Nicaragua but the palm has split open, I looked and looked in town and through the other big moto shops to find the KTM gloves were the strongest through the palm of the hand and the pricing the same or less than other good name brands so I bought the KTM gloves from them too .... second official piece of KTM bling for when the Klims get too stuffed to wear.

To sum up, R2R (Ready 2 Race) KTM in Medellin did a superb job and looked after us very well and certainly going the extra mile service wise looking after our gear etc cos lets face it the local punter doesn’t rock in with a bike covered in Colombia and needing to store house and contents so we can appreciate we are a bigger pain in the arse to start with, also Andres and David both speak English so discussing moto stuff was as simple as it could get with a lack of communication being a non event.

A huge thanks to Andres and David and their team who made us feel very welcomed and sorted Maya out for everything we needed to get done.

When you need to get something done in Medellin, here are the details.

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No excuse not to find them :rofl

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Maya finished and ready to ride, down the access ramp and out :clap

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The R2R Team with us

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The two guys who made the the whole R2R experience great, from left to right Andres, me (but ya knew that) and David, all in all the service was simply outstanding, Andres is the top dog shop manager and David is the service manager, I can only dream of service like this for New Zealand.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...2R/file-12.jpg

Thanks guys you rock :clap

Finally the drongo that causes all the trouble with his flash as new shirt and gloves ...flash as Michael Jackson (was) :rofl:rofl

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...R2R/file-6.jpg

Two Moto Kiwis 13 Sep 2013 04:10

Medellin To Rio Claro
 
Saying goodbyes to R2R team Andres with local knowledge personally escorted us out of town to avoid traffic and no go way north only to come back to where we wanted to be, yet again he made the offer just to be of help ... Andres when are you moving to New Zealand to start a KTM dealership???

Andres on the tastie 1190

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The final look, wave goodbye, Andres cracked it open and was gone in a flash :eek1 they have more grunt than a paddock full of pigs

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Waving goodbye after being kicked out formally we gased up and headed for Rio Claro, a park based on water sports.

The trip was uneventful, no protests or trouble and San Antonio was mostly cleaned up of truck tyres etc.

Arriving at the park we looked for some alternate accommodation as the park was expensive, in the end we stayed at the park, their price included tea that night, breakfast and lunch the following day, still more than what we would normally spend but we were there and the setting is very nice indeed, our room with the towel.

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The room only has three and half walls, not a window to be found in the entire place, we thought we were going to get hammered by mozzies but there are none to our surprise ..... saweet.

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That evening we were talking to some people who live in Medellin, I had gone to the bike to get some stuff when a fella came up and started talking with me interested in the orange alien so we chatted about the trip etc....as ya do. :clap

He asked what we thought of the Rio Claro, so I said well it is beautiful and the next day we were going to go swimming and walk to the top.

The conversation progressed to are we doing any of the Zip line, rafting or caving so I openly said we wouldn’t as we had already creamed the next days budget before the next day so we would settle on the walk and swim which is included in our park entry fees.

The conversation took a very unexpected turn, this man was the son of the owner (which I didn’t know till then) and he said, ok in the morning you can do the Canopy tour zip line or rafting, gratis on the house but please tell your friends.

So with that offer we said yes please and wanted to do the zip line .... WOH HOH, love Colombia :clap

Next morning we woke to a stunning day after a night of very big lighting, deafening thunder and very heavy rain which bought the river up 0.5 meter or more.

On with the gear .... hmmmm what have we let ourselves in for

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Teaming up with our fello zipliners we walked up to the top and promptly swung and zipped our way down, the longest line being 300 meters long along the river.

Pack of scared muppets

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Ellen mostly ready ... I am sorry what did you say ..no intendo senor .... vwumpf off she goes

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The second line was the longest

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Coulda put her hat on straight for the pic instead of hanging on for dear life ... sorry fellas :rofl

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Incoming Kiwi

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The last line before home and terra ferma

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I am actually saying where is the toilet here :rofl

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Ellen mid flight

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Arriving back to base in one piece (which was cool) and smiles a mile wide we were very happy campers.

So now we have told our friends .... ouwh and you guys :D

After that we went for our walk and swim, talk about life of luxury on the footpath to freedom

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There is a nature flow out of a rock wall so we swam over to investigate, the water flow was strong

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The rope ladder

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The water was coldish too

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She wasn't climbing this very well

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From there we continued to the top on the walking track through rock formations and massive limestone overhangs

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Safety first :rofl:rofl ... what handrail

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Cool rock formations, stalactites, stalagmites and a stellawife

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Massive spider webs everywhere, really cool coloured spiders in them too

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Awesome colours in the limestone rock

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All in all we really loved the place and it was worth the expense as the food was outstanding and included in complementary coffee, even though we had a gratis zip line it was still very well worth it.

Two Moto Kiwis 14 Sep 2013 01:26

Rio Claro (River clear or in English propa Clear River)
 
We packed up waved goodbyes and set off for another park only 20 minutes away which is the Parque Tematico Hacienda Napoles which was the home of the biggest baddest drug lord in Colombia and he tried to build the biggest collection of African animals outside of Africa, he was killed in the 80s and now his place is a resort.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...quita/file.jpg

The driveway

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We rocked up to the gate, the admission fees were a lot, the hotel was alottamoreagain so way over and the extras for parking the moto and extra cost for meals was out there, all in all it was shaping up to be a budget basher of epic proportions so we both agreed that the level of interest compared to the level of cost wasn’t our gig so we carried on.

We decided to google it, it looks like a great place but one thing about RTW travel on a budget is some things do have to go amiss if they are not top of your chart, it becomes a cost/value exercise.

Continuing on we hooked a right and headed to Honda then towards Manizales, well I wanted a photo in Honda just because but with trucks and traffic and keeping my mind on the job we rode straight through and I didn’t even know if ... oh dear.

Rocking into a small town of Mariquita it was later afternoon so we decided to stop there, we found a great hotel with a big courtyard to park Maya in, once settled in we walked into town to find the big footy game on between Colombia and Ecuador and virtually the whole town was wearing yellow tee shirts..they are into it.

We couldn’t believe how many moto shops there are in a small place including the availability of tyre for big bikes.

We had been talking about reshaping our seat so Ellen doesn’t keep sliding forward so I drew some pictures and wrote what we wanted to do, we took Maya in to the shop and had the job done, it cost $20 mil which is about $11 US dollars and works a treat, the only thing that worried me was the seat cushion was very wet so I think the rain is coming in through the stitching.

This is the only pic I have but you get the idea

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Two Moto Kiwis 14 Sep 2013 02:27

Mariquita To Manizales
 
Leaving Mariquita, after the wee rain shower finished

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We opted to take a back road through to Salamina, there was mix of shingle road, mud and very nice tar seal, by one way or another we managed to pick our way through the backroads with the help from locals, our map and mrs.garmin.

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Spiffing views coupled with a nice day

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A little moto ridden by a future GP rider

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The little motos can out corner us but when it comes to KTM country we whistle past, parts of the road got slimmy and wet

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Everyone should have a rocket in their front yard :D, here we are in Colombia back yard with a rocket in the front yard

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Three on a bike common around here

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We got down to our supposed turn off beside the bridge but no road, not even a walking track, see me riding across.

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At the abutment there is meat to be a road

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Now our paper maps show a road, google maps show it, osm show it, mrs.garmin shows it so wtf whee is it hmmmm.

No biggy we just changed our plan a little, next turnoff was 30 km down the road so no biggy, tanking up and resting for 10 minutes we carried on to our turnoff ....which did not exist, again the road is shown on everything but the building in the middle of the "road" was gona be hard to ride through being concrete...yeah i know harden up and just do it.

Ok, plan m by this stage, this means Manizales which we were meant to be two days away from so thar didn't work very well.

Stopping at roadworks we talked to a dude in a C63 Mercedes out for a hoon, he was up it leaving darkies past us with the sound of a 6.3 liter v8 with lovely sound system and ripping through the twisties like a hot knife through butter, he told us of a nice place to stay out of town so we decided to head there.

Suddenly the stop go chickie turned her lollipop and he was off hussing it up off the line, nice to se a real car being used well,

Continuing on down the hill we turned off and headed up the valley per instructions, this when we met Max on a DR650, we had almost stopped while having a chat, Max stopped and turned around so we had a good kiwi/ozzie chst on the side of the road, he too was looking for acommodationgiven it was 4.45pm so we all headed back down the valley, Ellen had spotted a place not far away.

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We discused the options and it worked out way cheaper for three of us in one room so we did that, with a small restaurant down the road we all scrubbed up and went for a local feed and had a chat about bikes and travel.

Two Moto Kiwis 15 Sep 2013 01:28

Los Nevados National Park
 
Max from Oz set off south and we headed for the volcan, this was a high point of our trip as we reached 4120 meters above stress level, unfortunately mum nature was not playing well with us this day and it was raining, misty and very cold, that is the way the cookie crumbles.

Stopping at the park entry it was closed anyway so double whammy no way to see anything today, we turned Maya around while I was sitting on her, suddenly the ground was far from my feet, suddenly Maya made friends with the ground throwing Ellen to the ground and me doing a freestyle version of river dance. :rofl

The top road while misty and raining still provided some cool backdrops and waterfalls

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Pea soup

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It would seem there are a few waterfalls along here, this is where the township of 25000 people (including the people) got wiped out from the volcano so we are going to explore that later.

We took another road down to Manizale which provided a bit of entertainment.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...iz/file-17.jpg

Next morning we had organised a couchsurf with a local rider, we thought he was on a DR250 and he thought we were on two DR650s, much to his surprise we found Maya and much to our surprise he turned up on a KTM 200 so orange was the flavour of the day, we went for a local ride ...those wee 2 hundys are great in the twisties :clap.

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Two Moto Kiwis 17 Sep 2013 00:58

Page Shortening post
 
To big

Two Moto Kiwis 17 Sep 2013 00:59

Page Shortening post
 
One more

Two Moto Kiwis 17 Sep 2013 01:01

Page Shortening post
 
OK I lied :helpsmilie:

Two Moto Kiwis 17 Sep 2013 01:01

Page Shortening post
 
Try this time

Two Moto Kiwis 17 Sep 2013 01:02

Page Shortening post
 
Ouwh crap :confused1:

Two Moto Kiwis 17 Sep 2013 01:02

Page Shortening post
 
nutha?

Two Moto Kiwis 17 Sep 2013 01:03

Page Shortening post
 
Last I hope

Two Moto Kiwis 17 Sep 2013 01:04

Manizales To Salamina, Town And Around
 
With only a short ride of 78 km it was a lazy start, the road in good condition all the way...for a change....and it was actually there which was a pleasant surprise :rofl

Getting sorted with accom we took Maya to the parking spot cos there was nothing at the hotel but hotel and moto park combined was $13 so not too spendie :D

Finding the disappearing road day was the mission for the next day, a 168km shingle road blast at around 3000 meters, my riding skills were put to test yet again with were clay, mud and moss.

Poor ol Maya got a beating suffering a smack in the bashplate and ding in the front head pipe, while trying to take some pics I climbed off the right hand side and accidentally took her with me ..... she dropped onto an ill placed rock, nevermind shit happens.

Ooooops :eek1

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Turns out it wasn't my fault (a good rider always blames his bike :rofl) as the creek was soft, look mum no stand :evil

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950 excavator making easy work of it

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We got to within 11km of our road to discover we are correct and it simply does not exist despite being shown on all our maps and GPS.

This was where the road ended ... literally a you drop off the edge so I had a chat with Mary and as you can see by her body language she said quite clearly your maps and GPS are wrong .... woman they just don't understand :hide

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This was typical of the road conditions

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Turning back we headed to Marulanda for lunch, only thing we could get is sweet bread so that was it as well as coffee which was excellent then home james to beat the incoming rain storm, well as luck would have it we followed the rain storm for 20 km and riding into San Felix it dumped in front of us leaving us alone and with only wet roads, the storm turned right and we turned left, perfect.:clap

The rest of the road by this time had all but dried so our return was much swifter, our rear tyre with 19750 km on it not holding on that well and suffering some big cuts from sharp rocks.

Next day (we were only gonna stay on night) we decided to have a rest day and catchup on ride reports etc, I also finished our camera mount and the fuel indicator tube on our CJ tank split and spewed fuel so I had to buy a new tube as well, just one of those fixit days.

Some amusement was had with me bein the only whiteyfoo in town some local kids befriended and it was 20 questions .. and some photos

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This is what happens when there is white velcro to touch and play with ...:rofl:rofl

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This we found amusing, the Suzuki shop sells furniture ....seems they don't trust their bikes either :rofl

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That my friends is what has been happening in motorcycle and travellers heaven.

Two Moto Kiwis 22 Sep 2013 19:34

Salamina to Riosucio
 
Being in the middle of nowhere and not having a big day setup we cruzed more backroads and gorges making an easy day of if, we dropped 1800 metres and the temperature difference was huge so we were back to sweating again ...ouwer.:huh

On the way down to the main road a dog jumped out of the bushes on the left and ran across the road and straight into us, in a split second I didn’t even have enough time to the “t” out in shit and we hit it, the dog buffed our front wheel clean on the left hand side before heading under the bashplate and the rear wheel .:eek1 :eek1

With a full tank on board and us, bike, house and contents I estimate the dog took a hit of 400kg weight coupled with about 40 - 50 km /hr impact, we were so bloody lucky not to get hiffed off Maya.

Turning around to go check it out it was apparent he wasn’t coming back from that, a couple of twitches of the lip and stone dead, by this time a small boy had appeared from the house but he didn’t know we ran it over, given the unfortunate rules here we hit the gas and left making as much ground as we could, only two minutes later a moto cop was coming up the road ... that was close. :eek1

Once back on the main road we were inundated by trucks and buses again and so appreciating why we get off the big black ribbon as they are laced with trucks and buses so you spend half your day overtaking.

Again our maps perfected another Houdini escape maneuver as far as roads go, having our trip set around getting off the main drag the plan was to ride into Supia from the back road .....nup all the maps lied again with Mrs.Garmin telling us to turn off through a rock wall ... we decided against that.

So Roisucio was a stopover night however there is a cool hill to climb and get a great vista of the valley so what is a man to do but make the most of it.

They have their crickets there that are very brightly coloured, here is a couple of them having a chat on a log.

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The steep path up to the rocky climb to the lookout point

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Riosucio from the top

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...cio/file-1.jpg

Ellen had organised a couchsurf in Armenia so that was the destination for the day, another cruzy day other than lots of traffic, also being Sunday it seemed the Sunday drivers were out in mass.

Two Moto Kiwis 22 Sep 2013 19:50

Riosucio To Armenia To Salento
 
Travelling through a few small towns netted some giggles, we pull up beside the local motofeds who where very interested in the Colombian crumpet on a scoota, we momentarily broke their stare with the rumbling orange alien, both of the feds giving us the big thumbs up before returning to their ogle. :rofl

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...nia/file-3.jpg

Somehow we managed to take a short cut and find ourselves on top of a mountain top looking down on the clouds and wondering what happened, a quick map check and GPS check and we changed route to compensate for the wrong road, but we got to see another town and some cool backroads :clap .

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...menia/file.jpg

Armenia is a big city with about 300000 people so we didn’t get to meet all of them.:huh

Town centro was only 2 km away from our couchsurf so we walked in for tea sampling the local empanadas which were fantastic.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...nia/file-6.jpg

Treating Armenia as a tourist stop after mucking around in the back yard we rode up to Buenavista to a cafe ... which was closed :cry, next stop Cordoba, luckily it was open for lunch ,while there we took a small road up to the lookout but we failed on that too missing our turn and going well beyond and way higher up a skinny little road.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ia/file-12.jpg

Leaving Armenia our destination was Salento, only 40 minutes up the road, at the servo a dude pulled up in a truck wanting to catch up with us for a local ride, we gave him our details but the ride didn’t eventuate.

Noel900r 24 Sep 2013 11:26

G'day Andi /ellen ,well iv'e had a bit to catch up on as iv'e been busy finishing the work on my house ,well it's on the market now so lets see who wants it?
I'm going to the HU meeting at Dayboro in a couple of day's can not wait.
Anyhoo as always your reports are top notch .Regards Noel:D

Two Moto Kiwis 25 Sep 2013 20:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by Noel900r (Post 437616)
G'day Andi /ellen ,well iv'e had a bit to catch up on as iv'e been busy finishing the work on my house ,well it's on the market now so lets see who wants it?
I'm going to the HU meeting at Dayboro in a couple of day's can not wait.
Anyhoo as always your reports are top notch .Regards Noel:D

Heya Noel, lets hope all your good work pays off then, best for selling it, seems to be a seller market in NZ now, not sure about OZ tho.

Have fun at the HU meeting mate we enjoyed Cambria :thumbup1:

garrydymond 25 Sep 2013 23:56

Happy Birthday Andi

Two Moto Kiwis 26 Sep 2013 21:20

Quote:

Originally Posted by garrydymond (Post 437802)
Happy Birthday Andi

Thanks dude, but 47 .. not sure I wonna rave about it :nono: :clap:

Two Moto Kiwis 26 Sep 2013 21:21

Salento
 
Only a short ride up from Armenia we had no idea what we were getting into, we had an invitation for accommodation in a smaller town that is partly touristy and party normal.

In and around the area there is a lot to see and do so we made the most of it, for the most of it we were assigned great weather which includes of course the thunder and lightning.

While based at Salento we also took in the Parque Del Cafe which is a huge amusement park with a coffee theme.

This is the cable car to get down to the main area

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...0Cafe/file.jpg

Guess who is about to get drowned on the water ride :evil

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...afe/file-6.jpg

The place is beautifully kept and very well done, a bridge in the middle

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...afe/file-8.jpg

Our tranquil train ride ... or so we thought, at least it started tha way :eek1:eek1

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...afe/file-9.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...fe/file-13.jpg

A heart stopping and stressful moment was had at Parque Del Cafe when we were on the train, only a couple of minutes into the ride a lady with a baby next to us starts sounding anxious, it was then we saw a motionless baby with eyes rolled back to whites so it was not looking good, then the tears erupted.

Right there and right then something had to happen and very fast, as it would happen we were approaching a medical unit so I pointed it out to the lady and it was all my might to yell out to stop the train, I climbed onto the side front of the carriage yelling as hard as a could in spinglish at the people in the carriages forward of us, even tho the language was not good the message was received loud and clear.

With help from those up front of us in the carriages we managed to get the trained stopped pretty quickly (although it seemed like forever), in between times with the huge commotion we were making one of the medics realized something was not right and came running arriving when the train was slowing down to a standstill and rushed the baby into the medical unit....followed by a very upset mum and family members.

The train then started again after all clear had been given and continued to the next station where we got off and walked back to the medical unit, they had the baby stabilized and breathing which was a huge relief with the mother and family being very appreciative towards us for our effort to stop the train and get help, we waved the foreigners flag high!!!.

DEFINITELY coffee time and don’t be shy with the Baileys to help calm me down, followed by a cold coffee ice-cream ....enough of that kind of excitement for the day!!!

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...fe/file-15.jpg

Moving on to brighter and cheerful stuff the entire park is like a small Disneyworld with rides and attractions everywhere and all included in your admission fee.

We only did a couple of rides because the lines were very long .... and it was a week day, would hate to see it on a weekend!!

The coffee show which was on our list we thought was going to be a semi documentary kinda thing, well it couldn’t have been more different being an incredible very full on theatrical, now for those of you who know how shallow I am with boobs, bikes, booze being best I was taken back with the level of professionalism and outstanding performance.

To be fair I was blown away and we sat right on the front row so we were right on the edge of it.

Of course coffee being the park theme you can buy anything so I managed to find some chocolate coated coffee beans to I can do stupid shit much quicker and feel 20 while doing it .... :D

This is the main lookout structure which is pretty high.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...fe/file-21.jpg

On leaving the park I managed to snipe off a picture of the bricks in the main area which are nicely shaped and coloured .... all from our moving cable car......paparazandi

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...fe/file-20.jpg

Back in sleepy Salento we had met some kiwis travelling in South America too, they were normal people not on motos, we kept bumping into them everywhere, so cool to hear the Kiwi twang again so sitting in the main square we gobbed icecreams and swapped travel stories, best for your travels guys, great meeting you.

While chatting to them at a local restaurant we were spotted by Raul and Elida
cos we were wearing out Horizons Unlimited Tee shirts, we ended up chatting with them, turns out he has a 990 Adventure R ... (lucky) bastid so they came and visited us and checked out Maya.

Seeing them in the parque the next day we organised to head out for tea and have the famous trout and plantain that Salento is known for, ouwh, trout, mushrooms, mushroom sauce, plantain, rice and salad .... what a feed, world famous, sorry for the crap pic the waiter took with the big post in the middle of Ellen (although she is used to that) :lol3.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...to/file-31.jpg

The trout over plantain ..... n i c e

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...to/file-29.jpg

Salento has some cool surprises like this little red bridge with freezing cold water under it, no deterrent for the craziasian tho :huh

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...nto/file-7.jpg

Also some dreadful graffiti that I was disgusted with, were is the orange paint when ya need it :D

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...nto/file-9.jpg

Salento town square at night not long after a big downpour

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...to/file-15.jpg

We loved this bar door

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...to/file-24.jpg

To finish, the colourful main street of Salento with the stairs to the lookout

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...to/file-26.jpg

Next up, our assault of Manizales to Murillo at 4234 meters but something first to sacre ALL Kiwi blokes .... mates there is no pair of gumboots big enough for this task, this is the one that DEFINITELY got away :evil:evil:rofl:rofl

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...to/file-33.jpg

Two Moto Kiwis 1 Oct 2013 17:06

Parque Del Nevado - Palm Wax Trees
 
Just up the valley from Salento world records are set.

Residing up there are the tallest wax palms called Palmera - the national tree in Colombia (Ceroxylon quindiuense is their official name in Google), they are the tallest in the world.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ey/file-43.jpg

While based at Salento we took the opportunity to take in the park and see these monsters first hand, we did the park over two days not being sure of there was a loop or not.

The scenery was spectacular to say the least with starting from farm paddocks then into native bush / rain forest.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ley/file-4.jpg

The small river was the same as anything we would find in New Zealand and some very cool dodgy swing bridges.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ey/file-14.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ley/file-5.jpg

Ellen placing her feet carefully

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ey/file-21.jpg

And some dodgy non swing bridges :D

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ey/file-12.jpg

The last crossing at the top, the wire saved my arse from gettin wet, click on the image to watch the vid.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...th_file-16.jpg

This is where we were :clap

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ey/file-17.jpg

First day up was up to the top but we only went as far as the “paid entry” as we didn’t have any money, we talked to some others as well and they said we didn’t miss much .... so we felt better about that.:clap

Returning back to the bottom we geared up and headed up to the end of the valley which on the maps and according t how far you can ride was 11 km however within about 2 km there was a big set of gnarly gates which there was no way through, there was a nice wee ford though to wash Maya.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ey/file-31.jpg

This is how they take the horses up, tie em to a moto and take em for a walk

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ey/file-23.jpg

The following day we did the big loop track which took us to great heights and epic views of the valley and right through the middle of the big fellas.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ey/file-33.jpg

They are actually a very hard wood so would make an incredibly good structural component to a building b u t you are not allowed to touch them and rightfully so.

One of the big fellas that had laid down

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ey/file-46.jpg

At the top we enjoyed view of spectacular volcanos

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ey/file-39.jpg

Back in Salento we joined Raul and Elida for tea which was nice chatting about travel and bikes (pictured in previous thread).

Great place to go to and stunning scenery.

Two Moto Kiwis 2 Oct 2013 00:30

Salento To Murillo To Libano
 
After taking in Salento and thoroughly enjoying ourselves it was time to tackle the Murillo road. :clap

Leaving Salento and getting around the big bad sheep unscathed :evil we made our way back up toward Manizales just skimming the edge of town before heading up the road to 4234 meters above stress level.

Mum nature played well sporting us a pretty good day giving us a combo of fog, wind and sun so varying our views.

It got very cold at one point in the fog as it was propelled over us at probably 40 km hour side wind ...... chilly

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...uiz/file-8.jpg

Taking in our surroundings we broke through the fog line into the sunny stuff .... WOHHOH :clap.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...oad/file-1.jpg

These trees or plants are called Frailejon and grow 25 mm per year so these guys would be 140 years old :eek1

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...oad/file-4.jpg

Here we are in Gods back yard looking down on the fog and cloud, there is some big ground up there

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...oad/file-6.jpg

While making a wrong turn we spotted the top ... .always a bonus, the full glory of the 5321 meter high peak was unwrapped for around a minute before mum nature closed the window on us.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...oad/file-9.jpg

We stopped at one point to get off Maya and do a 360 stand and view, to easy to enjoy the road and riding too much and forget about where you are, I know it is not work and t e c h n i c a l l y we haven’t got much to do but those days although extremely beautiful and slightly challenging you actually have to take your time, take it in, photo it for your fading memory and just be there, this being the most important!!

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ad/file-13.jpg

The road itself was easy as it was mostly dry, a few puddles and creeks but nothing bad, I could see in inclement weather how this could change dramatically.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ad/file-15.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ad/file-19.jpg

We crossed the famous slip area which took out an entire village of Armero in which 25000 people, our friends in Bogota having personal friends and family who were lost to the tragedy.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ad/file-23.jpg

Picture time for the alien

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ad/file-36.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ad/file-32.jpg

The rest of the road is great condition with a few lumpy parts with rock right down to almost to civilization at Murillo but there is one very strange patch of beautiful tarmac road just a couple of km out which was a real surprise .... then straight back to lumps again.

Arriving at Murillo we had a late lunch at 2.30 pm, the original plan we to stay the night but they wanted bigger money than usual and had no wifi etc so I think that was a case of crosshairs on the whiteyfoo, a subcommittee was formed and a discussion group appointed then the descision was made to hit Libano 45 minutes away which turned out to be a far better choice, street tucker supreme.

But in Murillo, interest was stirred again

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ad/file-27.jpg

In Libano main square we pulled in and stopped, just along from us an XT660 with a very proud owner in a pink shirt making himself known to us which was cool, un momento ... he rang some buddies and said come check our this alien (we are getting used to this now) and el pronto some more moto dudes turned up on various bikes.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ad/file-30.jpg

Big discussions, lots of photos and smiles, the one thing I love about Colombia is they love their bikes and love even more something that they either don’t see or see vary rarely so it is special for us to be treated with such interest as it makes our day as much as theirs and I know with our smiles and interaction with them it makes life better.

That evening we saw one of the moto riders in the supermarket and he eagerly pointed out to his chickie and amigos that these are the guys on that bike, pretty cool really.

If you get a chance to do this road it is one of the must-do's of Colombia.

seouljoe 2 Oct 2013 00:55

Thanks
 
Took me three days to read this thread. Still reading.
Wonderful report and Ellen is amazing!

Two Moto Kiwis 2 Oct 2013 13:13

Hi Seouljoe

Thanks for your feedback, we are trying to make it interesting for people to read.

Ellen and Andi

troos 2 Oct 2013 14:00

Quote:

Originally Posted by Two Moto Kiwis (Post 438573)
Hi Seouljoe

Thanks for your feedback, we are trying to make it interesting for people to read.

Ellen and Andi

Belief you me, its been fantastic to follow you guys on your adventure :thumbup1:

Keep the reports going :rockon: :rockon: :rockon:

Gipper 2 Oct 2013 21:22

Andi you Old Bastid, Im suprised Ellen let you walk over those logs at your age :rofl:

Youd have done better balancing Maya across there :thumbup1:

Keep up the good "Work" and the great reports + piccies guys!

Hows the Espagnol coming along? you must be fluent by now mate

Hard to believe its 14 months since you crazy kids were in Banff, time sure flies

Two Moto Kiwis 3 Oct 2013 20:42

Quote:

Originally Posted by troos (Post 438574)
Belief you me, its been fantastic to follow you guys on your adventure :thumbup1:

Keep the reports going :rockon: :rockon: :rockon:

Heya Troos, very nice to hear thank you....more to come. :thumbup1:

Two Moto Kiwis 3 Oct 2013 20:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gipper (Post 438613)
Andi you Old Bastid, Im suprised Ellen let you walk over those logs at your age :rofl:

Youd have done better balancing Maya across there :thumbup1:

Keep up the good "Work" and the great reports + piccies guys!

Hows the Espagnol coming along? you must be fluent by now mate

Hard to believe its 14 months since you crazy kids were in Banff, time sure flies

Heya mate ... yeah blonde slowelyfastly turning silver .. blimey not good :rofl:

Those logs, yeah they were a bit of a trick and the bloody floppy wire didn't help, luckily I have lighting quick cat-like reflexes to save my gruds gettin wet...next time I will take Maya :D

Yes trying to keep the report as interesting as we can while in the same region, main thing is we are still enjoying it and enjoying recording/writing about it.

Mi Espanol es bueno, getting there, can hold an ok but basic conversation, Ellen is miles ahead of me tho, you would thought with 14 month of practice .... :oops2:

Anyway, all good mate, how is life in Banff?, what is news, hope you are keeping the place clean and tidy for when we come back :thumbup1:

Two Moto Kiwis 3 Oct 2013 20:51

Libano To Bogota And My 22nd Birthday For The 25th Time
 
We left Libano for Bogota, city of 10 million people, not normally our gig but Salvador had given us some great local knowledge for roads to come over which was cool so it was a pretty neat day loaded with twisties.

Salvador and Paola had kindly offered us to stay with them in their apartment in downtown which was simply awesome, Maya had full undercover parking and it is as safe as houses.

We had a few things to do, get the new Heidenau, get out tablet replaced, try and get our debit cards sorted and have my birthday.

Add to that we were meeting Dan and Sara from World Wide Ride, we had chatted over email prior leaving from New Zealand and we had passed them in Canada with big waves without realizing it was them in the rain, they arrived in Bogota the 25th with our new replacement filter :clap.

We managed to get our tablet sorted and changed after some anger and international f-words which was clearly understood and we picked up the new tyre so mission accomplished there.

Being the 25th was my birthday Dan and Sara joined us for tea at a local seafood restaurant which was cool.

The six of us chatted, drank and ate the evening away, what a super birthday of new places, faces and food, a very international gathering of likeminded nuttas, on going to leave they shouted our tea which was spiffing, onya guys we are lucky people to have great and generous friends

Me, Sara and Ellen

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...thday/file.jpg

Opposite side of the ring, Dan, Paola and Salvador

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...day/file-1.jpg

The only photo of the birthday cake .....truly lookin like a retard singing ... you are allowed to when you are old :rofl

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...day/file-2.jpg

Due to this being my birthday week which I was happy to drag as long as I possibly could the mission was set to go to the northern part of the city where there are clubs and bars galore, given Salvador is an interior designer having done very top end international work in Dubai etc he told us of a cool place, he understated that and took us to a the place that was five floors of bar, night club and seriously groovily finished.

Check out his work SFAD-Home :clap

This place rocked, starting of with a bottle aquadiente which lasted one round it was all on, we got bar platters of beautiful food and continued chatting, eating and drinking, check out the detail in the not so great photos that don't really do it justice.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...day/file-9.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ay/file-10.jpg

A reminder which side of the stair to use, handy when you have bobbly boots from Scotch input :rofl

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ay/file-12.jpg

A 20 foot shipping container in the bar ... as ya do!!

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ay/file-13.jpg

Some locals with stylie hairdos

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ay/file-15.jpg

Three queens, Miss Bogota .... your choose :evil:evil

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ay/file-22.jpg

More Scotch, more shots, more smiles.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ay/file-17.jpg

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ay/file-24.jpg

As the night grew so did the sounds progressively turning from cool local/english restaurant/bar music into full on international club sounds inducing much freestyle dancing and drunken grins, great night out for the oldies ... it was dark when we got home.

Sara and I making the most of the shadows so no one could see us dancing ...ahem scotchinducedfreestyle :D

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ay/file-26.jpg

This guy is just trouble :evil

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ay/file-25.jpg

Now everyone says Bogota is just a big ugly city, although BIG cities are not totally my gig I disagree with ugly and maintain that pretty much no matter where you go you can make the most of it and enjoy it, you will always find the good side if you want it.

Guys, thanks that was the best 47th birthday I have ever had :rofl, truly was great celebration with grog, girls and guys.

Two Moto Kiwis 4 Oct 2013 23:37

4 x 4 Trip Bogota & Girag
 
Salvador and I have a lot in common, we both have 4 x 4 Toyotas set up well, we both have KTM 950, we both have a great other half and we both love Scotch ... just to name the important ones. :D

So Salvador knowing this organised some local hoods that he hangs with to come out and play on Saturday on a cool track to a hill range top.

Dan and Sara were here too so they were extended the invite and we shuffled between trucks during the day ...WOH HOH.

Arriving at the head of the track tires were let down and preps made before we hit the good stuff, Salvador drove the first 200 meter gnarly section then handed over the wheel to me and said go for it ..... what was a man to do.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...4x4/file-7.jpg

Salvador negotiating the first bit and making easy work of it in a well set up truck.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...4x4/file-9.jpg

Given my 4x4 history of competition trials and speed events there was a bit of pressure to get it right, in my mind I did OK cos he got his truck back in one piece, this is more than I can say for some of my acts of unprofessionalism in New Zealand.

This is my truck misbehaving

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...bag/file-6.jpg

In action

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ag/file-21.jpg

Click on the pic to see our river crossing, we didn't do this to Salvadors truck

http://i299.photobucket.com/albums/m...Export0044.jpg

Check this out for cool territory

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...x4/file-10.jpg

This is Salvadors sister doing her best to be a counterweight

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...x4/file-12.jpg

I thought I would have a crack at doing a wheelie in Salvadors truck ... nearly got it :rofl

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...x4/file-14.jpg

Arriving at the top we had pretty good views being at about 3300 meters, fog was hanging on the cliff side and a big rain wall hanging on the opposite ridge and we managed to sit in the middle dry and listen to the thunder clap and roll through the valleys.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...x4/file-11.jpg

A barbecue was pulled out of one of the back of a truck and a big beast was cooked up with beef, chicken, sausages and pork all on offer, at 3300 meters and cool enough this tickled the right sensors.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...x4/file-16.jpg

Heading back down Dan took the wheel and did a good job navigating Salvadors truck through various obstacles, the last part of the track I drove down to “the hole” then I handed back to Salvador.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...x4/file-25.jpg

It was a good size washout with guidance needed to make sure the truck wheels didn’t drop literally about 1.8 meters which would flip the truck over a and do some big damage.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...x4/file-27.jpg

Successfully navigating this goodbyes, handshake and hugs were had, what a great bunch the Colombians are, just like Kiwis in so many aspects.

Now the big mission, Salvador had been on the phone more than a dozen times to help get Dan and Sara bike out of Girag which is the local air freight company from Panama to Colombia.

Dan and Saras bikes were supposed to have been in on the Thursday and we had confirmation at 4pm on the Saturday driving home from the 4 x 4 trip so we diverted to the airport.

Even armed with Salvador, fluent in Spanish and local knowledge they tried to brush him off talking through a crack in the door, luckily Salvador had the number and name of a bigwig so things started to happen.

Even so it was a long drawn out process of excuses etc and finally they were reunited with their bikes at 8.30 pm Saturday night.

Now they had left their batteries connected for 5 months so there was big doubts as to their state, no fear at all.... Dans fired straight up with Saras needing a little encouragement but both bike under the steam of their own batteries, very impressive to say the least, they run the Deka Batteries EAST PENN manufacturing co., inc.: Lead-Acid Batteries; Battery Manufacturers; Thousands of Different Types of Batteries, Cable & Wire Product

Getting the bike home was great, Salvador being the great host had organised a boys ride on Sunday so Dan was able to join ..... that next.

Two Moto Kiwis 5 Oct 2013 13:57

Bogota Boys Bash
 
There is no stopping Salvador when it comes to 4 x 4 and even more so motos.

After a relaxing day 4 wheeling a lads hoon was organized through the back blocks of Colombia north of Bogota, for me this was a treat as I got to sit back knowing we would find our way out with surety..... something new :rofl

Meeting up with a V Strom 1k and F800GS and their owners we headed out of town slicing up traffic like a knife through butter out to Juans place set in a stunning valley, so quiet but not far out of the concrete, we were invited in for breakfast .... fed eggs, bread, coffee etc, awesome feed and set us up for the day ....well at least till lunchtime. :evil

The team line up including two XT 660 Tenere's

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...Out/file-4.jpg

After our breaky we followed our leader up roads, shingle roads, a couple of goat tracks all through small towns and farm lands.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...Out/file-7.jpg

Lunchtime soon came upon us so we stopped in Pacho for Pollo y papas (Chicken and spuds)

Salvador, not wanting to wait for a photo ... and rightfully so the tucker was very nice

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ut/file-10.jpg

The bikes parked in the main square, first time there was no massive crowd looking, just as we were about to leave a lady wanted her photo, of all the bikes she picked Maya, sorry Dan just shows if ya wonna pick up the chics ya need orange :rofl:rofl

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...Out/file-1.jpg

Another coffee so we could do stupid shit much quicker and we were on the road again heading back toward bogota through various backroads.

We all made it back safe and sound however one of the riders hit a broken down car in the middle of a bridge, the bike and rider both suffered but the rider was ok after some hand surgery, his F800 GS not so well.

Another great day out with grins from ear to ear with thanks to Juan and his good lady, thank you so much for guiding us around :clap:clap.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ut/file-12.jpg

Again this was where we went, stunning countryside.

http://i1263.photobucket.com/albums/...ut/file-13.png

saralou 5 Oct 2013 22:32

Yeah
 
Great posts! Reading it felt just like I was there with you....oh yah I was! Miss the gang, but having an epic time up here!

Sp


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