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Tiffany Takes on America
Heading Out
It was like a bad dream as I found myself heading off on a trans-continental journey that will last several months and I looked down to find myself perched on a Honda 125cc scooter with a bulky bag containing my possessions strapped on the rear seat. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...Cornwall-M.jpg What on earth was I doing that I had got it so wrong? How do you ride with these little wheels? And, most importantly where's my bloody Beemer? I looked round to see another scooter was following http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG2951-M.jpg Was it some sort of nightmare or anxiety dream? Nope, just a rather unorthodox (for me anyway) start to my trip. I'd been hosting a couple of unusual bike travellers, meet Tipi and Chae (with my friend Annie) http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG2940-M.jpg Tipi and Chae are from South Korea and had ridden to England on their Honda scooters- yep, folks 125cc automatic ones with those tiny wheels across 12,000 miles including the wastelands of Siberia, http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG2949-M.jpg They're my heroes and really nice people to boot:online2long:. They arrived in time for Christmas and joined 16 of us at my parents' three bedroom house for the festivities. I don't know what they made of their time with my somewhat eccentric family, what I do know is that they blogged six pages about it on their website but as it's all in Korean I don't understand a word of it - they might well be describing the fact that their accommodation was a tent inside a barn, don't forget, this is December ...but when they saw where the rest of us were sleeping, they said they had the best deal.:phone: And now it was late April and in the run up to my departure, they had come back down to Cornwall. The morning arrived that I was setting off, they offered to help me get to the train station. Their suggestion was that we ride in convoy on their scooters, they would be two up while I had my bag and then they would ride both scooters back to my house. It worked like a dream, once I was used to being on such a different bike. I made it safely down to the train station, my shoulder was aching a bit, but then it has been a bit painful for a while:(. I injured it six weeks ago snowboarding when I had a fall whilst going a bit fast and heard my shoulder go crunch. I carried on boarding but somehow my shoulder didn't feel right and gradually became increasingly painful. When I got to the doctor, this was how the x-ray looked. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG2953-M.jpg Torn ligaments had resulted in my shoulder being a bit odd looking- that's the space showing between the bones. Damn - no more snowboarding for the final two days of the holiday followed by weeks of inactivity. I headed to the nearest bar to drown my sorrows, wearing a sling that was closely related to a strait-jacket (you can tell it's France, look at all the ashtrays!) http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG2847-M.jpg Six weeks later after some intensive and painful physio, I was back on two wheels and heading off to America, my shoulder had healed just in time, this, believe it or not is the healed shoulder- it still looks a bit odd in real life too, but the doctors were pleased. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG2952-M.jpg I was ready to hit America- the question was... would America be ready for me? |
Hot in Phoenix
After a tiring journey that included a pleasant interlude at the Piano Bar in O'Hare Airport. I got to Phoenix, sweltered a bit in my bike gear until I reached my friend's house.
The next morning my bike turned up from Tucson, Thelma, my R80GS who has been in exile for quite a while. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG2958-M.jpg In the shade of the garage, I got straight down to work, servicing and doing the usual checks. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG2965-M.jpg Everything spick and span, within 48 hours I was out on the road and not before time too http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG2967-M.jpg Yep folks, it was 100 degrees as I pulled out of town, I amy be a bit hazy about fahrenheit, but even I know that triple digits is bad news whereever you are. The words "Mad dogs and Englishmen" ran through my head as I turned Thelma northwards and towards the promised cool of the hills. Payson was my first stop for fuel and a bit of shade. The Harley riders looked at me a bit oddly, but I'm used to that, this time mainly due to my full bike gear, gloves and helmet. Naturally they were in T-shirts, bare-headed and looking cool. They started chatting to me, turned out they were from Chicago, when I mentioned I was on my way there they did a double-take. They then confessed their bikes were being trucked back up there, leaving tomorrow. As I stood there sweating in the heat, I must confess to hearing a little voice in my head saying "Take Thelma, take Thelma", ahead I had almost 2000 miles to ride in the next four days and I had no idea when it was going to get cooler. Let me tell you, it took a strong dose of self-control to cheerily say "see you on the road" and ride out of the petrol station. I headed northwards leaving the amazing Cacti of Arizona behind, it got cooler, at Low Show or was it Show Low, either name could have applied around here from what I'd seen having already been past the Wild Women Saloon, I'd slowed down to get a look, but thought it would be best not to stop, I wasn't 100% sure what they meant by a saloon, visions of wild westersn with gun fights and brawls ran through my head. On to Show Low where the staff in the petrol station enjoyed the sight of me searching through the fridge for something to eat, finally selecting something and then removing the chicken part out of a chicken cheeseburger and giving it to a dog before heating the rest of it in a microwave and eating it. I guess vegetarianism has yet to reach this neck of the woods. Time was passing, as I reached the Narrows in New Mexico having regretfully realised I'd passed the only sign to Pie Town without stopping to take a photo of it...when will I learn? I ask myself. here's some hills. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG2976-M.jpg I was heading towards Albuquerque, keen to get there before dark. Someone stood by the side of the road and pointed at the ground as I went past. At first I assumed he was pointing out something on the road, so I checked, no snakes or holes, nothing there, not even a dead one of these http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG2977-M.jpg Then I thought he is probably just a biker himself and greeting me so I relaxed again. But my brain was still thinking about it, and finally, I suddenly thought, is my light working? I stopped the bike and checked, whoops, no headlight, the sun was setting rapidly and the light had quickly faded. Damn, usually not too much of a problem, as I'm generally looking to stop riding and put up my tent at this point. But I had an invite and a destination tonight. Albuquerque was awaiting me. First day on the road and to be honest, my panniers are in a state of disarray (somewhat like my life) and I am really not sure where my spare bulbs are. I'm used to automatically carrying some because in some European countries it's compulsory to have them on or in every vehicle. I started unloading with a sigh. I was lucky, in the first pannier, there they were and even more lucky as there was a headlight bulb in the set, I had no idea if I might have used it up previously. Not forgetting, Thelma and my gear have been in storage for quite a while. The headlight is a bit tricky to replace, I put my hand in to get the old one out, fiddled around a bit, found a loose wire and "hey presto" the lights came on, it was just the connector and not the bulb. Quickly reloaded my case and get back on. By the time I reached the main highway (interstate) it was dark and not a pleasant ride with the trucks roaring past and all sorts of debris on the road. I arrived in time for dinner at 9.00pm except...it wasn't 9.00pm it was 10.00pm, I felt bad, I had no idea their clocks were different from Arizona and they had waited on dinner for me. Alon and his wife Ann made me very welcome as did their labradoodle - that dog is crazy! Time for a chat and a catch up, I first met Alon when he was travelling on his Honda TransAlp and was in Ecuador, we also met up in Bolivia and crossed the Salar de Uyuni together, a lot of fun. The next morning we set off, Alon was "escorting me off the premises" and setting me on the road out of town. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...0/M/Alon-M.jpg |
Good luck, will look forward to following this thread:scooter:
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Cool (or not in this case doh). Good to hear you´re back on the road, and I look forward to more stories.
Pat |
Trip Report
Hey Tiff,
Good luck on your trip and keep the report coming at us with lots of photos Steve |
:thumbup: Watching with interest!
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Yip, I'll be following this one too!
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Me too,and more pictures please.:mchappy:
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Enjoying the tale and pics, good luck with the trip
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Tornado Tent
The road out of Albuquerque took me along Route 66 part of the way, with signs such as this to ensure I was singing along all the way
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG2980-M.jpg I know people say the Interstates are boring, but you guys have some very amusing roadside signs. I don't want to risk offending anyone by quoting some of them. From miles away I could see this cross by the side of the road, it was huge http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG2985-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG2984-M.jpg Having looked at my map and having learnt from past experience, Texas is BIG, I just cut through the top bit and ended up camping near the Oklahoma border ... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3026-M.jpg I'm making a quick getaway after camping in a farmer's field, I'm looking a bit concerned, but so would you if you had just spent the night in a tent that looks like this... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3002-M.jpg One of the poles broke as I was setting up my tent , it's not repairable, and so I had to make do with attempting to sleep in something that looked like it should have been put in the rubbish a while ago. Being thankful for small mercies however, I suppose I should look on the bright side that at the moment I'm on the road solo and so I didn't have to squeeze anyone else in it. I also had these to contend with http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG2994-M.jpg lots of them scuttling around outside my tent - a little reminder to always close the zip properly. The day did improve though. At one of the rest areas I was fascinated to discover a tornado-proof room to shelter in - handily placed between the ladies and the gents' loos. I couldn't resist taking a look, it looked like quite an ordinary room to me, with bemches around the wall to sit on and some most informative charts on the wall showing typical cloud formations of tornadoes. I studied these carefully as I don't have much experience of this type of weather. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG2987-M.jpg I took photos as well, ready for easy reference in case I do run into any dodgy looking clouds. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG2989-M.jpg |
Kansas Calling
I wasn't in Oklahome for long- apologies to those who are fans of the State, but I had a destination to reach. Into Kansas and can you believe it almost immediately a big black cloud appeared. I'll admit I'm not hugely knowledgeable about the States, but even I know that Kansas is famous for its tornadoes, my cultural reference point being The Wizard of Oz. I didn't like the look of this cloud looming ahead of me on the highway
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3034-M.jpg I have to admit that in the picture it doesn't look so bad, believe me it looked worse in real life. I stopped and compared it with the pictures from the tornado shelter, decided on a scale of 1 to 10 that it was possibly a 2 and just kept riding hoping for the best. The cloud gradually disappeared off to the east. I stoppped for a break and after a phone call to VMW in Seattle, decided to do take some action about Thelma's lack of revs and pulling power. In the carpark of Dairy Queen I got out my tools and spare parts and proceeded to take apart the carburretor. I changed the diaphragm on it http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3027-M.jpg This was me just finishing, the beauty of having a twin-engined bike, from my point of view as someone to whom mechanics does not come easily is that I always have the other side to refer to when I'm putting things back together again, making sure that everything goes back in its correct place. The change of diaphragm didn't make much difference, Thelma will have to wait until Chicago to have it looked into properly. Lots of people stopped by as I was working to say hello and ask where the bike is from as it has a huge yellow British registration plate. I'd lost a bit of time, and as I passed Wichita (singing Seven Nation Army in my head) I realised I had better find a place to camp. I got a perfect spot in a field not too far from the highway, it was hilly so I was out of sight from the road, although it had been a bit dicy to ride Thelma through the long grass hiding the rocks on the slope. I took a look at the broken tent pole, removed the offending section then re-threaded the shock cord and with some blue electrical tape managed to do a temporary repair to get the tent up. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3033-M.jpg Still not great but looking a lot better than last night. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3031-M.jpg |
Yech! I hate Potato bugs.:ban: Whats up with Thelma? Is she not running well?
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Sluggish Thelma
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Thelma got Pulled
Iowa was beckoning with some hospitality courtesy of Ryan, his wife Robin and their collection of pets, Jed, the wire-haired terrier was a mad bundle of energy and extremely friendly. The cats were a bit more reserved until I tried getting to sleep on the sofa that night and they weren't impressed that there was a human on their playground.
R&R kindly took me on a tour around the Bridges of Madison County, just down the road from where they live. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3044-M.jpg This was Cedar Bridge, the grafitti was a bit off-putting, but they are really great historic bridges. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3042-M.jpg The next morning it was time to get back on the road, Ryan led me through town on his Ducati and then said goodbye, http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3047-M.jpg just minutes later I heard a siren and was pulled over by someone from the Polk Cunty Sheriff's Department. Although I have got insurance for the US I hadn't actually had a chance to print it out. I think it may be considered a bit naughty to not have the actual document with you or in the vehicle (unlike the UK). The bloke was not very friendly at all, he had decided that because I had a funny looking number plate, I must be a dodgy person. He demanded all my documents, "oh no" I thought, "this is me getting done for it" and so took diversionary action, launching into a long monolgoue about where my motorbike is from and all the countries I've been to on it. I talked non-stop until, in the end he got so bored of hearing me speak (or else just thought I was a nutter) and told me to go. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3048-M.jpg He obligingly posed for a picture before I took off. |
Great trip tiff keep it coming hope Thelma gets better soon.
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Windy City
Just got in to the Windy City...
and there are a lot of BMWs and a very warm welcome from BMW Motorcycles of Countryside, Illinois who were hosting me for the next couple of days http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3061-M.jpg Thelma soon takes her place with the other Beemers http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3059-M.jpg and enjoys the company. meanwhile I am meeting customers and talking about my travels (yes I'm the one who looks like a dwarf as I was showing them the map on my topbox with my various routes around the world) http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...side-bmw-M.jpg |
Life in the City
I had a couple of invitations while I was in Chicago, one of them was to a meeting of Chi Vin, a group of vintage motorcycle enthusiasts. I'm not sure if Thelma was supposed to be along as well (I think she may be a bit offended to be called vintage!), and maybe it was just as well I'd left her at the dealership because the other bikes would have shown her up as they were very well maintained and shiny, they've obviously never battled through sandstorms in the Gobi, the Atacama and the Sahara Desert or been dropped in multiple rivers.
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3051-M.jpg There was a Vincent amongst the many bikes in this garage. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3049-M.jpg I'd been given a lift to the meeting by Kevin, riding shotgun in his battered but classic Dodge van. In fact it was a bit of a shotgun ride as we accelerated along Chicago's freeways, with last minute turns and swerves...or maybe everyone in Chicago drives that way? To add more authenticity to the ride, Kevin even has a couple of bullet holes in his bonnet (hood) as you can see. He assured me that he was not the intended target. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3053-M.jpg Rocket Chics- a women's motorcycle group based in Chicago, were holding one of their regular meet ups at Countryside while I was there and I joined in. They ride a wide range of bikes and it was great to hear about their experiences of riding in and around Chicago. We had a workshop session with Ken, one of the mechanics, who was extremely patient with all our questions and had an encyclopaedic knowledge about all the bikes we asked about. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...-rockets-M.jpg I'd like to say thanks to Tommy, Shy, Lynn, Barb and Jasmine for the warm welcome to their group. And hopefully I'll be able to make it to one of their Wednesday meet-ups at the fantastically named Cheeseburger Paradise. They were interested in seeing Thelma and we had a look at her- she was in the very capable hands of Walter, here he is wondering just which bit to inspect next! http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3064-M.jpg Finally I was ready to leave, I was being seen off the premises by Carey, the Events Manager http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...de-carey-M.jpg I've still got that parcel on the back seat, I'd been carrying it since Phoenix hoping to send it, but failing spectacularly to find an open Post Office anywhere in my 2000 mile ride across the country. I said all my goodbyes, but then as I tried to go, Thelma's starter motor died, she obviously didn't want to leave. What weird but fortuitous timing that it happened at a dealership. I had to wheel her back into the workshop and unload my luggage. I was supposed to be visiting friends in Minneapolis the next day so I started to look up train and bus times for the journey to Minnesota when Countryside BMW stepped in and saved the day, they offered me an alternative vehicle to take for the journey. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...M/mower4-M.jpg Whoops wrong picture! Actually, it was one of these http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3077-M.jpg Yep, folks, an identical bike to the one I rode to Tibet last year. It felt like old times as I sat on the yellow 1200GS and stretched down to reach the ground with my feet. Not one to to look a gift horse in the mouth, I rapidly transferred my luggage and with a cheery wave set off down the street and onto the infamous toll highways across Chicago. |
Northwards
It was time to head north. I’d seen a flyer and been invited to this event which was sort of on my way, though I have to say with my kind of route planning, just about anywhere is “on the way”. It's just the sort of event that owners of old BMWs everywhere would love...eat your heart out Mark Manley?c?
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3287-M.jpg I was a bit late getting to the small town of Pecatonica, and struggled to find the main entrance to the showground, I asked around and a lad in pick-up truck offered to lead me to it. Further conversation ensued and I realised belatedly that he was taking me to the wrong event at the ground- a full-on motocross race was taking plac, and he seemed tyo think I was there to compete on the big 1200GS! I pointed out it was a different event altogether, and as soon as I saw the large pile of BMW cables I knew I was in the right place http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3075-M.jpg Things were settling down for the night, so I quickly put my tent up and joined in with the socialising. I met plenty of nice people and luckily had brought my own food as this was the food option that evening http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3067-M.jpg That's Sergei, originally from Russia, in charge of the BBQ. We had quite a good conversation about the lack of vegetarianism in Siberia! The night was very cold, apparently down to freezing, although I was warm enough http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3069-M.jpg a lovely sunny start to the day. I headed indoors in search of breakast and bargains http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3074-M.jpg I got one of those small plastic covers for the swinging arm thing. and then looked at the menu http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3071-M.jpg hmm, not that many choices for me, intrigued, I asked about the Biscuits and Gravy, only to be told that there is ground meat in the gravy. They pointed me in the direction of the sweet rolls, and I've got to say, they looked great. I chose the one that looked the most healthyhttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3070-M.jpg I said my goodbyes and headed up along the banks of the Mississppi, briefly accosted at a garage while I was getting petrol by this bloke http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3079-M.jpg He was VERY proud of his car, he'd had it since new and insisted I admire the engine http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3078-M.jpg I'm not too good about car engines, but even I could read the 350 Horse Power and commented on it as well as complimenting him on what a clean engine it was! |
Nice - thanks T. Keep them coming.
P |
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Now if you know of a similar event for old Brit bikes that could be really useful. :mchappy: |
Guess who was reading!!
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Cultural Input
In Minneapolis, I was taken out for a boat trip on a lake, luckily I had all my bike gear as it was a bit chilly, I'm the one who looks like Ten Ton Tessie, but you know what?? I was the only one who was feeling warm.
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3080-M.jpg Moving on swiftly, I made them the national dish of Cornwall http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3102-M.jpg Pasties (except that I've noticed Americans pronounce it a bit different) http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3107-M.jpg Actually, I can't take all the credit for the pasties, there was some child labour involved too http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3099-M.jpg and here she is in her more usual guise as a star lacrosse player http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3094-M.jpg On the way back to Chicago to return the 1200, I stopped off in La Crosse, Wisconsin to meet up with a couple of other riders, this is KB, he rides a 1200GS, a red one, it looked like I'd deliberately turned up with a matching bike, although I hadn't gone as far as he does and worn a shirt that matches the bike as well. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3112-M.jpg We had a meal at a Cajun place called Buzzard Billy's, or something like that. I was fascinated by the fact that they were serving aligator meat. Don't worry folks, I stuck to the veggies. Also meeting up with us was Ernie Bell - a BMW mechanic who also makes stainless steel tent pegs. He's assured me they will not bend, so I'm intrigued to try some. I'd met Ernie the previous weekend at the BMW meet. He rides an airhead as well. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3114-M.jpg Moving swiftly on, I had a date to keep in Boulder, Colorado, meeting up with fellow travellers. Another overnight stop on the way with Ryan and Robin in Des Moines and an ecstatic reception from Jed the dog. What can I say Robin...your food was divine from the parmigiana for dinner to the french toast with homemade berry butter in the morning. It was difficult to drag myself away.. I'd better point out that we didn't just eat while I was there, we also did some cultural stuffhttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/eek7.gif It's true, Tiff did culture AND enjoyed it, take a look at these pictures the city by night http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3134-M.jpg a night tour of an unusual sculpture garden in the middle of the city, including this sinister-looking overcoat and the spiders lurking in the background http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3127-M.jpg my favourite sculpture http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3126-M.jpg and then I went inside and found my initials amongst the hundreds of combinations of letters that make up the structure (yep, it's THAT big) http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3125-M.jpg I headed west across more states that are new to me including Nebraska, which in places was a bit dry looking http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3139-M.jpg Then I reached Kansas, a lot of straight roads there as well, and are those storm clouds ahead of me? http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3137-M.jpg Ignoring the clouds, I found a suitable spot to camp, it's a bit tricky in such a flat landscape trying to stealth camp, I thought that these agricultural machinery things were suitable to hide behind...others may feel differently! http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3136-M.jpg Thelma and I attempting to hide behind the only structure for miles, perhaps not too successfully! |
Into the Rockies
I had fun riding the farm tracks of Kansas
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3143-M.jpg After all the flat stuff I crossed the state line into Colorado and the Rockies started looming in the distance, or at least they should have been apparently, but it started to drizzle with rain and grey clouds closed in, there was no sign of the mountains until I reached the foothills themselves. I made my way up to Boulder. Chris Ratay, looking every bit the adventure motorcyclist!!! http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3146-M.jpg He and his wife Erin were my hosts in Boulder- I'd had a long-standing invitation to visit them ever since our near-miss meeting in Brazil 10 years ago when we were all on the road at the same time. Many thanks Erin and Chris for the great hospitality:clap: Whilst in Boulder, I also had the opportunity to meet up with and thank Shelly, the star :Dwho collected Thelma from Mexico and smuggled (ahemhttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/eekers.gif) "transported" her over the border back to America for me. Shelly rides a KLR and is an expert on Copper Canyon she's promised to take me for a ride round down there next time I travel through. We had a fantastic lunch at the Dushanbe Tea House in downtown Boulder, it's an authentic teahouse transported from Tajikistan...and looking every inch the part. I kept looking around me with wide eyes, recognising different features as I sat there, enjoying the surroundings and discussing travel through Tajikistan with Shelly. Here she is, heading off on her KLR. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3144-M.jpg My stay was all too brief, it was time to hit the road again. I had a tight deadline to get to LA, not much time to linger but there were some impressive views to see, first of all crossing the Rockies themselves, some great twisting roads http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG3155B-M.jpg and even the occasional snow patch http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3163-M.jpg detours and road closures got me a bit off track, when I wasn't expecting to be on dirt http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3161-M.jpg ski resorts were closed, I had hoped to get a snowboarding session in as I knew that often the resorts in Colorado can remain open until July. However my luck was oout and even the late opening ones were shut the first week in May. I passed motionless chair lifts beside the highway. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3171-M.jpg |
The Desert
Leaving the Rockies, I had lots of downhill and then out into the arid landscape of Utah
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3180-M.jpg I met some riders from Tennessee who were horrified by the fact I was going to be camping rough that night- and even more concerned that I didn't have a gunhttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3173-M.jpg loving the landscapes and taking selfy pics as I ride - that's my Tiff patent sunshade made from a piece of card and sellotape http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3175-M.jpg Each evening I was following the gravel tracks to find somewhere for my tent http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3190-M.jpg finally finding a good place and having a humming bird dive bomb me as I put up the tent, time for a sunset portrait of me and Thelma http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3188-M.jpg Hmm, a bit of a bad hair day I think. I go to the best places for lunch, here I am in the shade around the side of the petrol station, eating junk food and fruit. Happy to be out of the sun and away from the worst of the desert winds. I was entertaining the garage cashiers (as they came out for their fag breaks) with tales of my travels, although they were relating more to the minimum wage deals in the UK vs US and the cost of renting in Cornwall compared to Nevada- much cheaper in US they reckon. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3198-M.jpg I may be looking like I've got a Bobby Charlton combe-over but actually it's just a bit of a windswept look. In the background is the landscape that is quite typical of this part of the world. From quiet empty highways http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3220-M.jpg to the chaos of Vegas, where I barely managed to grab some shots as I rode through- on my own I didn't really fancy stopping, maybe next time http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3195-M.jpg Time to turn towards LA http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3201-M.jpg I considered putting one of my stickers on the sign (like others have done) but didn't want to get accused of being a vandal as the police were hanging around. Sowere some of the Highway Hounds http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3221-M.jpg The world's biggest caravan, actually I was going to try and get a picture so that it looked as if Thelma was towing it, but the State Troopers came over for a glare at me so I made a hasty exit. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3200-M.jpg Trying to be discreet with Thelma in the Mojave http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3204-M.jpg I must have got far enough off the beaten track because our only company was Eddie, who I think must be a wild mule (do you have those in the Mojave?)- he was pretty frightened and wouldn't come any closer than this...yep look closely enough and you will see him peering out. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3203-M.jpg |
Mojave Misadventures
Another beautiful camp spot, just me, Thelma and the animals lurking in the bushes.
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3206-M.jpg a bit off putting to find this on the ground next to my tent in the morning, http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3217-M.jpg and then later having to confess to carrying a bullet...is there a law against carrying concealed ammunition? is it even safe? I didn't want to leave it just lying there in case some children found it. trying to get out of the arroyo (dry river bed) taht I had camped in was harder than getting in http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3212-M.jpg the sand seemed to get softer http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3213-M.jpg the another cute highway hound. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3223-M.jpg I splashed out and had breakfast, a few miles down the road at Peggy Sue's Diner, which appears to be a bit of an institution in this part of the Calfornian desert. YES!! they serve tea, although I have learnt the hard way that I need to ask for HOT tea- otherwise it's a cold, sweet drink which bears no resemblance to real tea. The waitress was dressed for the part as a diner waitress from the 50's. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3225-M.jpg Then it was back onto Thelma for more of the highway and the heat. I'm not sure what happens in some parts of America, do they just run out of names and inspiration for things to call places..this is a classic one http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3224-M.jpg |
Thelma's Makeover
had ridden two thirds of the way across North America and finally reached Los Angeles, the sun was shining and friends were there to greet me. No time for the tourist traps of the bus tours past celebrity houses. My friends gave me a cold beer and dressed me up like Austin Vince and if you don't know who Austin is, just google images of him to see what I mean.
Thelma needed some serious TLC and I needed the right outfit for the job. Enter stage left http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3240-M.jpg The work was being led by Joe (who is in Moto Enduro/Terra Circa) He started by taking a long look at Thelma from various angles, whilst I warned him about the "Pandora's Box" effect that always seems to happen when people do any work on her http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3228-M.jpg Joe was ruthless and dived straight in http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3230-M.jpg After perusing the protective clothing available and taking my pick http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3232-M.jpg I was put on scrubbing duty http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3238-M.jpg I'm doing the Debbie Magee role here, directing the hose pipe while Paul Daniels takes the lead (cultural reference possibly over the heads of Yankshttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/Norton.gif) http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3243-M.jpg I was even let loose with an aerosol can http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3253-M.jpg Friends came round to assist http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3256-M.jpg you can always spot the arty types by the way they wield a spray can http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3257-M.jpg sparks were flying http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3246-M.jpg I got on with some engine stuff http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3261-M.jpg and valve clearance http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3260-M.jpg always tricky getting Thelma's rocker covers on and off due to the somewhat distorted crash bars (not sure quite how they ended up like that) |
looks like Thelma is getting some well deserved attention...
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Another good report Tiff, noticed your left indicator hanging lol
BTW what Tent are you using? The Ammo (Round you picked up) is a 5.56 round or for civvies's, (bullet), all rounds are harmless unless in a weapon look at the blunt end, center if there is a dent (it has been fired, but not gone off, faulty) if intact never fired. Rounds hold black powder proppelant for the lead to leave the weapon, hope that helps. |
So the secret is out Tiffany, you DO know one end of a spanner from the other, I will remember that the next time Thelma rolls into Kilmington feeling sorry for herself :innocent:
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Mechanically Minded
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Thelma Makeover Part 2
Part of the pleasure of doing bike work in LA is that it is nearly always sunny, this all took place over three days, with various friends and neighbors popping in to our al fresco impromptu bike workshop
Joe really got into the swing of things and started spraying the twisted and dented petrol tank http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3270-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3271-M.jpg To prove I was taking my boiler-suited role seriously, here I am having a skype conversation with my sister in England, still in work clothes, which as I was on video mode she was able to see and appreciate http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...skyping2-M.jpg Back out into the open-air workshop and even the topbox had a facelift http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3272-M.jpg We start piecing everything back together http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3273-M.jpg which takes a while as nothing seems to fit!!http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif Meanwhile, Joe is still spraying http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3269-M.jpg Two pairs of hands are needed for this tricky bit http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3274-M.jpg we're getting there http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3275-M.jpg Finishing touches http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3277-M.jpg and then I'm off to Ojai as Thelma has an appointment there with these guys http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3283-M.jpg This is Adrian, the maestro of BMW seats, he works at Bill Mayers Saddles, and here he is putting the finishing touches to my new GS Adventure seat. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3284-M.jpg at the end of it all http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3285-M.jpg Thelma looks fantastic and they decided I needed a bit of smartening up too and gave me a new t-shirt. Huge thanks to Joe, Lara, Erdem, Sarah, Rob, Adrian and the rest of the guys at Bill Mayers. Thelma and I are ready for the road once more. |
Sandy Views
With Thelma looking good and my hair freshly plaited, we headed down to Santa Monica, in search of a certain sign...
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3295-M.jpg OK, so I hadn't actully ridden the whole route, but I HAD ridden from Phoenix to Chicago and then down to LA all within the last two weeks. and there was a familiar face, Gary aka Bear who also works as a motorcycle guide, he specialise in Route 66 and we'd last met at a bike show in England last year. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3299-M.jpg I headed over to the Santa Monica pier, as I needed proper proof that I had reacched the Pacific Ocean (I live on the coastline of the Atlantic in England) http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3293-M.jpg lunch at Bubba Gump's and I saw this old advertising sign which seemed very apt for those who have just ridden Route 66, not sure if it was just a joke http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3300-M.jpg Thelma and I headed down to the beach, I was tempted to have a quick ride on the sand but thought I might get told offhttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/thumb.gif http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3301-M.jpg Leaving the ocean behind I headed out onto the concrete jungle that forms LA's freeway system. It's something that we hear about in films and on the telly, but it's not until you're in the solid queues of traffic that you appreciate just how bad the congestion is. I went into Brit biker mode and filtered through (lane splitting as it is called over here) headed out towards the desert http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3303-M.jpg some distance down the road noticed the lines of wind turbines on the hilltops around me, it was a bit eerie and made me feel like a lone wagon in the last century surrounded by native Indians. Everywhere I looked there seemed to be turbines http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3305-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3309-M.jpg Of course the key thing about wind turbines is that they are usually built in places where there is a LOT of windhttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/eek7.gif so not a pleasing sight. I held on tight ready for the gusts but I was in luck, it was a rare wind-free day in the valley, and I soon arrived in Palm Springs at my friend's house. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...-springs-M.jpg A warning that it would be a flying visit...a quick catch up on 18 months of chat and happenings, a great Mexican meal with very nice margaritas (sorry, we seem to have lost the photo of the margaritas!) and then I was up and on the road at 5.30amhttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/eekers.gif making the most of the relatively cool temperatures at that time of the morning. As I set off down the road, only the dog was up to see me off http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3315-M.jpg I was heading to Flagstaff and had many miles to cover that day, with a lot of desert to cross |
More great photos Tiff
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Overland Expo in Arizona
Flagstaff was to be my destination, I was heading for the Overland Expo
As I looked at my odometer, I realised that I'd managed to cover over 5,000 miles in the four weeks since I had left Phoenix, and yet I was just 120 miles from my starting point. That statistic possibly says something about my meandering route planning. I knew I was heading in the right direction when I saw vehicles like this http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3345-M.jpg Then, while I was at a petrol station, two bikes did a U-turn and pulled up, they had recognised Thelma - she's getting so well-known that before I know it she'll be asking for her own Facebook page. The riders were Mark Ordway and with him was Gaurav Jani (film-maker extraordinaire http://www.dirttrackproductions.com/ridingsolo.html) who had literally just flown in from Delhi, loaded his stuff onto a borrowed GS and headed up to the Expo. I tagged along with them (I'm sure I was invited!) http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3318-M.jpg I requested some off-roading, Mark knows many of the trails in this part of the world and we headed up Schnebly Hill Road As always, I didn't slow to take photos on the gnarly bits, just too busy hanging on. Further up we stopped for a break and I got some pictures http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3325-M.jpg As we headed up the Schnebly Hill Trail, we saw some other riders, this is Gaspard from San Diego (or possibly SoCal), not sure if he's onthe HUBB, but if anyone knows him, I've got a couple more pictures of him riding the trail on my facebook. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3327-M.jpg we paused to look at the great views http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3324-M.jpg Thelma was looking particularly immaculate that day...just an hour before I got driven off the gravel by a small pick-up truck Gaurav was tearing up the trail- no sign of jet lag http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3331-M.jpg we made it to Mormon Lake, a great setting for an event like this http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3414-M.jpg There were travellers everywhere... in trucks, buses and even an old ambulance as well as the many on bikes. I saw quite a few familiar faces, including Austin Vince and Ted Simon, I tried to keep a low profile as the last time I'd seen those two, I got a bit silly after my second glass of wine and was last seen sitting on Ted's precious original Triumph from Jupiter's Travels whilst wearing a pair of Austin's wife, Lois's knickers on my headhttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/eek7.gif Luckily no mention was made of the occasion, and in fact Ted even had a few kind words to say about Thelma http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3412-M.jpg I gave various talks and taught some classes, generally having a ball of a time. I wondered over to the vehicle driving track to watch some of the big trucks in action http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3343-M.jpg looking at the way they were driving, I was glad I travel on a bike http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3347-M.jpg some were getting rescued http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3332-M.jpg I, rather foolishly jumped into a land rover with a bloke, who was having a go at the tippy over course (it probably has a more technical name than that) I sat in the back, kept quiet, took photos and wondered why on earth I had voluntarily got in as the whole vehicle tipped from one side to the other. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3363-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3366-M.jpg I informed Jeff that my Mum wouldn't be too happy if he tipped this thing over with me in ithttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/DirtDOG.gif |
Overland Expo 2
There was a petting zoo at Mormon Lake
I'm quite fond of goats so went in to say hello http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3404-M.jpg It didn't seem quite so keen on the whole petting thing http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3402-M.jpg there were even bison http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3393-M.jpg which to my disappointment were not in the petting zoo, but then I saw the adult ones and realised why http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3391-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3399-M.jpg a bit big and nasty looking. Entertainment was provided by the Camel Trophy guys who built a raft http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3370-M.jpg (I'm sure there's a joke in there somewhere...wouldn't it be something along the lines of "How many men does it take to make a raft?"):rofl: http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3371-M.jpg it didn't look the most stable or safe of craft, and guess what they were planning to do with it?? http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3379-M.jpg That's right, they're going to try and float a Land Rover across the pond on it- if it was unsuccessful, guess who was chief understudy?? Yep, Thelma, who was waiting in the wings ready to be called forward. we all watched with bated breath as the Land Rover inched onto the raft http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3380-M.jpg and then cheered as it floated across http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3383-M.jpg celebrations that evening with the Camel Trophy team http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3411-M.jpg and then on the final evening a solar eclipse- I've never seen one before. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3387-M.jpg I didn't manage to get a photo of it later in the evening when it was more obscured, but still I was pleased to get this picture as it was a bit tricky. |
fantastic stuff, great things happen to good people :thumbup1:
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Heading to Utah
All the fun and sociability was put aside the next day, when I said my goodbyes to everyone at the Expo and headed off on my own once more, I went north leaving behind the coolness of the altitude at Mormon Lake and the greenery from the forests, re-entering more typical Arizona dry desert-like landscapes. As the sun was setting I started looking for a place to camp, I decided maybe this was not a good spot http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3423-M.jpg
I managed to find a great place, near Page in northern Arizona http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3417-M.jpg I used the local Burger King as my "office" for the evening, there is unlimited WiFi and so I had a chance to log on to the Internet. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3416-M.jpg Checking emails and planning a route for the next few days- for those who are wondering what's up?? how come Tiffany is PLANNING?? well the event I was heading to the following weekend was the Adventure Summit and it was to be a competition with points awarded for adventure routes ridden to it. I soon had my competitive head on and was looking at maps to work out my best route waking up in the morning, I found I was right next to this huge dam, it's at the bottom end of Lake Powell and took over seven years to build. It then took 17 years for the Colorado River to fill up the lake. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3425-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3424-M.jpg no riding along the edge of the dam-style stunts for me, a nice bridge instead http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3421-M.jpg if you have vertigo, I would not recommend this route. I then tried to fond somewhere to get a cup of tea but it was still early morning and the cafe was not open. They had a sign with their opening hours outside which a young couple were examining and looking at their watches. We then had quite a surreal conversation about the time as they were telling me that Arizona is two hours different from Texas (their home) and so the cafe should be open according to their watches, while I was saying that Arizona is eight hours behind England and we were too early according to my watch. Leaving them to wait I rode on.. what a nice State sign http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3428-M.jpg and what a great warning sign- watch out for people driving this type of vehicle in the desert as they obviously don't know how to use the brakes http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3430-M.jpg I felt the title "Hazards of rough terrain" understated things a bit. the next sign was even better..what an invitation http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3439-M.jpg I looked round and the only witness was this little fellow http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3431-M.jpg It was a great ride through the desert landscape, the sand wasn't too bad, but then I found out why it was supposed to be closed, as I came around a corner, this was in front of me http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3445-M.jpg and getting closer http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3441-M.jpg they seemed to realise that reverse is possibly not my forte and turned aside http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3444-M.jpg they then flattened things down a bit and I rode through with quite a bit of paddling (and for all those who thought they only helped because I'm a woman, well think again, because the bulldozer drivers thought I was a bloke until I took my helmet off a bit later) and why did I take off my helmet, well the dust and dirt had been wetted to reduce dust, which resulted in Thelma's tyres looking like this http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3451-M.jpg with a complete lack of grip, Thelma ended up like this http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3449-M.jpg not one of my prouder moments, but you know what.... I was too tired to care. One of the drivers saw what had happened and drove over in his bulldozer to help. A big thank you to Doug for his assistance, I'd been struggling a while on my own, but as the mud was so deep, I was just sinking deeper into it the more I tried to lift up Thelma. With his help we soon had her upright http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3450-M.jpg and I rode off a bit more gingerly. |
Utah Utopia
The trail improved, for those of you wondering where I was it's the Cottonwood Canyon Trail. I had taken Thelma through some water to clean her off a bit, the air is so hot and dry that she soon dried off.
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3509-M.jpg We had plenty of these for company..I think it's a chipmunk, but the only ones I've ever seen before have been cartoon ones http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3435-M.jpg Grosvenor Arch was reached, I attempted to ride up the footpath that starts round to the left of the escarpment, but decided discretion was the better part of valour considering I was on my own and turned round before I got too high. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3463-M.jpg I was relievd to see that I had reached the end of the road closed section, the car drivers were looking at me a bit curiously as I took photos of the sign. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3471-M.jpg Fatigue overtook me and I stopped for a nap in a quiet spot with Thelma standing guard http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3483-M.jpg Thelma woke me up after 30 minutes by suddenly dripping petrol from her right-side carburettoand the smell awoke me, she did this deliberately, as she's had no leak before or since then. Riding on a I found this place, an old fashioned Drive In Movie Theatre with the convertibles already in place. Every night they show films from the forties, fifties and sixties http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3484-M.jpg I lined Thelma up with the cars http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3486-M.jpg but, somehow, sitting on a motorbike is not the same as sitting in a car Mark, the bloke who runs the place was really friendly and let me have a look around, it's an amazing place as it's in an Airstream Caravan Park, I'd love to stay in one sometime. Airstream Park Drive-In || Escalante Utah Hotel || Shooting Star All the way through southern Utah, there was the most amazing scenery, this was another spot where I put my tent up as it was getting dark and woke up to find incredible views across the valley, this is just outside Escalante http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3500-M.jpg I like the small towns, this is the petrol station at Boulder, Utah, run by a very friendly guy who was happy to chat about life in the valley. I was most impressed to find that he stocked lots of organic and vegetarian options, so I sat and had breakfast, chatting to the locals http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3516-M.jpg Red cliffs were beckoning me onwards, this is more the sort of scenery that Utah is famous for http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3519-M.jpg I had the luxury of time to explore some of the slot canyons- awesome to see http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3523-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3522-M.jpg A couple on a Harley took this picture- they were very amused by my mud-splattered appearance http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3517-M.jpg Ahead, the Burr Trail was unfolding into the desert, I'm sure I've seen this trail in many a cowboy film. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3535-M.jpg |
Desert Wanderings
In Escalante, I discovered a more al fresco office environment, they were happy for me to use their WiFi as I'd had a meal inside
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3489-M.jpg and whilst I was there, This bloke turned up, having done a U-Turn in the street when he spotted Thelma, he looked around for her owner and finally decided that "yep, she's with the little lady sat over there" http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3490-M.jpg He is quite well known as the Desert Doctor and is the only bike mechanic for 200 miles, he also appeared pretty knowledgeable about airheads. Riding Burr Trail. it just got prettier and prettier http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3531-M.jpg This is what I like to see, you might feel as though you are in the middle of nowhere and haven't seen anyone for hours, but low and behold there are signs to indicate which trail to take, I was heading for the picturesquely named Bullfrog Basin http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3537-M.jpg Eventually onto tarmac again, and in the distance a glimpse of blue water, I'd reached Lake Powell. Approaching the ferry dock http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3581-M.jpg |
Good to see you and Thelma are getting along just fine. Looking forward to meeting you next month at the BMW Rally.
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More Utah Wanderings
I left Thelma down on the beach while I had my eye on the lake
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3547-M.jpg But then I had a better idea http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3558-M.jpg 1,2,3... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3563-M.jpg Big Splash http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3554-M.jpg The Patented Tiff Coates Method for Washing Muddy Leathers http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3555-M.jpg Meanwhile, around the corner, the ferry had pulled in, the captain was somewhat concerned at spotting an abandoned bike by the edge of the water. He docked the ferry and wasted no time in heading over to investigate, at which point I emerged from the water. He didn't really know what to say except "Can I help you with your things?!" and off he walked back to the boat carrying my jacket and helmet, whilst I tried to make myself presentable. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3566-M.jpg The ferry crossing was extremely windy, which suited me as I sat in the shade while my wet stuff was draped over Thelma drying off. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3573-M.jpg View from the ferry...lots of rock and lots of water http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3576-M.jpg ferry workers ignoring the clothing draped over Thelma as they prepare for docking http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3577-M.jpg Letting my leathers dry out a bit more, I rode off wearing my shorts http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3578-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3579-M.jpg Just don't tell my Mum I was riding in shorts! |
A fuel stop at one of the loneliest petrol stations I've encountered, in the middle of nowhere.
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3583-M.jpg Looking at the dirt ahead, I donned my somewhat soggy leather trousers, a mite uncomfortable at first, but in the Utah heat they were like having built-in air-conditioning http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif I tried recreating my Sahara Desert picture, but the sand just isn't the same in America. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3588-M.jpg Ascending up through the trees, in search of cooler temperatures. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3593-M.jpg I'm riding through the Manti La Sal National Forest in southern Utah. It's stunningly beautiful with a great range of dirt tracks- I later found out it features in the Back Country Routes DVD from Touratech. I rode through dirt, gravel, rock, sand and mud before realising that maybe I should check my direction, I hadn't managed to get a very detailed map of the forest and there seemed to be many more trails than I was expecting. There is a definitely a lack of people in these parts, I discovered someone camping in the middle of nowhere who very clearly had come up here to get away from it all and did NOT want to be disturbed by anyone. However, needs must, I took a deep breath and approached, noticing as I did so that his pick-up truck had a large sticker on it bearing the legend "Pissing off the world one person at a time" good grief I thought that's all I need. As I walked closer, helmet off, smile plastered on face, I could feel the hostility radiating off him. In my best British accent I told him I was lost and needed to check my route. Luckily he didn't shoot me, (he definitely had a gun in his truck) looked surprised at my accent and gruffly gave me directions, also pointing out to me how the forest tracks are numbered. I quickly said my thanks and retreated back to Thelma. As I was about to ride off, he approached (I flinched) and he offered me some stew, I claimed a dinner date and headed off down the trail. Who was I kidding about a dinner date in this remote bit of forestry?! The views became more and more spectacular, as I came over the top of the mountain and was descending a trail that hugged the edge of the steep slope. No room for mistakes as I would have gone hurtling down the vertical drop which was several hundred feet. After talking to him I didn't see anyone else the rest of that day except two quad bikes who passed me in the opposite direction. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3605-M.jpg I was getting tired and making silly mistakes, I realised I wasn't going to get anywhere near Moab tonight, let alone down to the valley floor at the bottom. I had no idea how much further the trail went. As the sun was setting, I rode on, keeping my eyes open for anywhere suitable for my tent. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3599-M.jpg Eventually I had to ride off the trail up a steep slope through soft earth, cactus and shrubs, finally stopping to park Thelma behind a bush as I set up the tent next to another one and settled down to eat my peanut butter sandwiches and enjoy a cup of tea. In the cactus next to me was Flat Stanley, a school project piece from a friend's daughter whom I'm supposed to be taking with me and photographing in different locations. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3615-L.jpg |
Hi Tiffany,
I'm new to your adventures but really enjoying reading about this one! Thanks for taking the time to post such great ride reports! I love the variety you have in your photos. So often when traveling alone it's easy to get in the habit of just taking snaps of the landscape with the bike in the foreground, and then I get to thinking it looks like my bike went on the trip solo. Am I correct in thinking you have a tripod and perhaps some kind of remote shutter release so you can ride solo but get photos with you in them? |
Fancy Camera Stuff (or maybe not)
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That sounds a bit fancy for me- it is just self-timed pictures, a bit tricky with riding shots as you can imagine. My tripod is a very small 3.5 inch one with bendy legs from Vivitar- $10 it cost I think. It's usually perched on top of my helmet by the side of the track as I ride past. Glad you're enjoying the description of my ride through America - more to come. |
Moving Towards Moab
The next morning, I was rewarded with a great view from my tent
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3618-M.jpg and narrowly avoided the pink spiky cactus just outside! http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3620-M.jpg Riding back down the slope, I came out onto a trail that was beginning to look like it might actually lead somewhere, still no sign of anybody else. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3624-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3644-M.jpg Some amazing landscapes and rock formations, I love rides like this http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3634-M.jpg Even a bit of a river crossing- http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3642-M.jpg The trail was a bit better than it was last night, I was off the tight narrow mountain tracks and in to the bowl of the valley http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3632-M.jpg I started to see telegraph poles and realized this must lead to civilization and potentially a hot cup of tea! http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3688-M.jpg |
Ahhh Tiffany, great to get into another one of your blogs. You're my hero!
Cheers Nigel in NZ |
I've just heard you are going to be in Austin Texas soon, I'm looking forward to meeting you!
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Hello Texas
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That's right I'll be at the Horsepower Farm (great name for a bike shop) Horsepower Farm, LLC | Motorcycle and Scooter Sales and Service | Austin, Texas in Austin on 7th July. Yikes..that's this Saturday, I better start heading down there, I've been lingering further north because I've heard it's VERY hot down there:funmeterno: Make sure you say hello, see you there. |
A Hiccup
There seems to be bit of a theme of red rocky landscapes going on and I haven't even reached the National Parks yet
I'd made to out of the forest and the mountains into Moab, had a long late breakfast break and a large cup of tea. took a look around the town, and as part of my points gathering for the adventure summit got a photo at the fire station, some antique looking pieces of equipment there. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3648-M.jpg In the supermarket I stocked up on food, ready for more wild camping, I was unable to resist lots of fresh fruit and then had problems trying to stuff it into the luggage on the bike. All set I went exploring some canyons http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3653-M.jpg Unfortunately it was at this point that I realized I had a puncture and took a closer look http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3651-M.jpg I could hear air hissing out- never a good sign, particularly when you're on a dirt track in a canyon, however, compared to where I had been riding over the past few days this was virtually a motorway. The hole that had been plugged five days ago was leaking air around the plug. Someone in a pick-up truck stopped and offered to help, he didn't have a compressor but said he would be coming back soon and would bring one with him which was very kind. Unfortunately I never saw him again, others stopped to ask if they could help, but I blithely waved them on, saying someone was coming back. Time passed, vultures were wheeling in the sky above me and I was starting to make inroads in the fruit mountain I had in my bag. A couple in a truck stopped - Randy and Judy from Colorado, I told them about the non-reappearance of the other guy so they decided to help. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3656-M.jpg Then Bob on an ATV stopped and he had a compressor and rope plugs, http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3654-M.jpg the blokes were keen to to do the work so I said fine, go ahead. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3655-M.jpg In case you're wondering, yes, I have got a repair kit, although I don't carry a compressor and yes, I usually do my own repairs. However I was unsure about re-plugging a hole that had already been plugged once and so wanted to check. I've got my trusty hand pump which puts enough air in to get me out of trouble. |
If you like reddish coloured rocks...
Due to the delay from the puncture, I was somewhat late when I got to Arches National Park
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3674-M.jpg So late in fact that the park wardens at the gate had gone home, I spent the rest of the evening chasing the sinking sun across the park, trying to get photos of as many of the great rock formations as I could before it got dark http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3657-M.jpg There are some amazing shapes, all created by the wind, erosion and water http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3658-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3663-M.jpg a couple of them later on, I didn't stop Thelma to take the picture, let alone get off her http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3665-M.jpg Don't worry if you're tired of red rock type photos, not too many more http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3673-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3675-M.jpg and of course the bike shadow picture http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3668-L.jpg It was getting dark as I left the park and headed up the road. I took a dirt track off the highway and then another one off that, the route got very bumpy, steep and lots of loose stones in the track. A hair-raising ride in the dark. I finally stopped when I realized it was just too dangerous to continue any further. I thought that last night's camp spot was steep but it was nothing compared to the choice I had tonight...no pictures as it was too dark, wait until morning. |
Utah Looks like Africa
Waking up, I was able to appreciate just how steep a slope I had camped on, as I took down my tent
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3677-M.jpg and then riding back down to the road, I looked around and appreciated the late night ride I'd done in the dark on this!! http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3684-M.jpg From the highway, I took a route called Blue Hills Road, things got s bit drier and sand was appearing http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3512-M.jpg In the distance, I saw some animals, which as I got closer, made me feel like I was in Africa once more http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3689-M.jpg I managed to get a bit closer http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3690-M.jpg |
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Great report.
Sharp, witty and to the point. We are like ships in the night, your photos bring back great memories. WW |
Thanks for the photo tips! Your timing on all of those timer shots is amazing! Thanks for taking the time to set up all of those photos. They really add a lot to the report being action shots of your riding. I'll have to pick up a tripod and practice for the future. Sometimes I guess it's so easy to get caught up in the riding itself that we can forget that we're not passing BY the scenery but moving THROUGH it and that it might add to the quality of our ride to stop for just a little longer and take it all in; and taking the time to set up a camera on a tripod, plan the shot, then take the photo is a good way of helping us feel part of our surroundings. Eagerly awaiting your next posting!
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Taking Pictures
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Sun, Sand and... Snow
I'd been enjoying the riding and the different scenery in south eastern Utah
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3659-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3521-M.jpg and despite the heat, when some nights I didn't need to put the flysheet on my tent http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3491-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3687-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3475-M.jpg I was starting to get confused about the difference between deer and antelope...or are they all called deer down here? At times it seemed like they were watching me from every hill top http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3703-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3702-M.jpg But it was time to start heading north, I had the Adventure summit at Salt Lake City to get to, and to reach it, I had to go in search of tarmac- this seemed to be the stuff I was looking for http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3708-M.jpg and at times I found myself just chasing tumbleweed http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3721-M.jpg look closely enough and you'll see the tumbleweed in front of me- this was another picture where Thelma is holding the camera, getting things in focus is not really her fortehttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif Avoiding the highway itslef, I managed to find a couple more dirt tracks, including one witht he unusual name of Consumers Road http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3725-M.jpg things were starting to get a bit green as I went north, and I was having to layer up again, I soon found out why I was feeling chilly, not sure what altitude I was at, but there was plenty of snow around http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3730-M.jpg In fact 40 minutes later when I reached a much-needed petrol station in the valley, the other bikers looked on in amazement as I pulled off my helmet, I wasn't sure if it was my extremely dishevelled appearance or the fashion faux pas of plaits with a balaclava (take note folks, that is NEVER a good look). But actually it turned out these riders were from Texas and had never seen a balaclavahttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/yelrotflmao.gifI told them they hadn't lived. |
Flat Stanley
As he's proving rather popular both here and on FaceBook, this was Flat Stanley enjoying the snow in Utah
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3727-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3729-M.jpg Alex, you've got a lot to answer for! |
Tynda
Hi, great meeting you in Oregon! See ya on the road some where again. James and Tammy, Tacoma, WA.
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More great photos and report of your travels
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Adventure Summit
Past coal mine and animals that were running away in the bushes, I wasn't pausing long enough to get a better look
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3726-M.jpg Over even more mountain ranges and down the other side passing lake-filled scenery that was more reminiscent of Switzerland and certainly not what I expected in desert-filled Utah http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3734-M.jpg I was riding hard to get to the BMW Dealership in Salt Lake City, as they had a part on order for me - just a lock for my pannier where someone had thoughtlessly run me off the road- luckily that was the only damage. I made it in time, and had a chance to chat to some of the staff, a friendly bunch, one of them is from Cornwall- hello Lee if you read this. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3736-M.jpg I had even put on my clean shirt for the occasion, as you can seehttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif It was then a short hop, skip and a jump over the final mountain range to my destination for the next few days- except that the staff at the dealership weren't even too sure if the mountain pass was open, rumour had it that there was still snow on it, I was determined to give it a try and set off looking for the elusive dirt trail out of Salt Lake City- after so many dirt roads already, I was determined not to have to resort to the Interstate. Finding the trail was hard, there were no signs and I had to backtrack a lot until the Mormon Boy Racers of SLC jumped to my rescue in their sporty little car with the funny exhaust and led me to it. I haven't got any pictures of this final gravel route as the sunlight was fast disappearing and it was bitterly cold, particularly as I ascended the summit. It was late by the time I finally reached the Adventure Summit at Tooele, they'd just about finished serving dinner, however, I was in luck as a welcome sight awaited me http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3737-M.jpg A ton of fresh vegetables with dipping sauces, I was in seventh heaven as I tucked in, answering questions about my off-road routes to the event. The next day we attempted the Pony Express off-road route over the hills, but some incredibly cold and wet weather had blown in with me, the temperature plunged towards zero , it was raining on us but we could see the snow falling on the mountains ahead of us, we reluctantly had to call it a day for the ride-out and headed back. Our unlikely camping spot was right next to the track where they were holding the World Superbike Races, I headed over to watch them with Thelma. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3750-M.jpg I managed to get a picture next to the track, with a bemused security guard looking on, unfortunately I didn't have my camera on me later as I sat on the grass next to the Grandstand (riff-raff entry ticket for me) and watched Max Biaggi racing- that bloke is a legend. I had a great spot, right next to the track, close to the run-off lane for pitstops. I can't believe I also didn't manage to get a picture of the lush green grass we were camping on (I bet someone reading this did though?), it was a stark contrast to my camping spots over the previous week. We were next to the Utah State Fire Fighters' Museum, the meals were eaten in a large room, filled with antique fire engines http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3743-M.jpg All under the watchful eye of Dave, a former FF himself, who kindly let me clamber around on some of them and even posed for a picture with me http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3741-M.jpg Having a wander around, I found the not-so-subtle US Marines recruiting tent, complete with chin-up competition taking place, couldn't resist getting a picture with it all in the background http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3748-M.jpg The next day we headed out to the course where we went through our paces on the motocross track http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...tocross3-M.jpgThelma didn't let me down, although I chickened out of some of the steeper rocky sections. We also had to go around a race-course http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...tocross2-M.jpg At the close of all the competitive riding, the points were totted up, some being awarded for adventurous routes being ridden to the event, which I scored fairly well on. There was a trophy-laden table, and Ian Schmeisser, the event organiser handing them out. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3746-M.jpg I was amazed to hear my name called out, I had won something and went up to receive my trophy http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...h-Trophy-M.jpg And proudly joined the line-up of winners http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...Trophy-2-M.jpg This was my favourite picture from the weekend http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...tocross1-M.jpg I'd like to thank Ian who organises the Adventure Summit events, Tracy who has the thankless task of being score-keeper, all the volunteers including Gale and Sandy and also my fellow competitiors for what was a fantastically friendly and fun weekend http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/clap.gifhttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/clap.gif. Roll on the next one. |
Racking Things Up
As I was getting ready to leave, I shook out my trousers and luckily I did so, as this little fellow came flying out
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3738-M.jpg Since the spider biting incident from last time, I am a bit wary about American spiders My first night after the Adventure Summit was spent in relative luxury, in a bed at a friend's house, waking up to the most amazing view in the morning - this might look like a painting, but it was what I saw when I woke up. The bear is actually a sculpture, but the deer was real. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3751-M.jpg Riding throughout the mountains, I was heading to Jim Harvey's workshop, he'd been riding with our group over the weekend and having seen the pitiful state of Thelma's pannier rack, he offered to build her a new one. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3767-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3752-M.jpg We spent the day at his workshop while he measured and measured some more, as none of the angles seemed to match up on Thelma!! http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3754-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3757-M.jpg The serious welding started happening http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3760-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3761-M.jpg More checking of angles http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3768-M.jpg More welding http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3770-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3772-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3773-M.jpg The finished product http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3774-L.jpg They look great and they will be stronger than any rack I've had before. Hopefully that means there will be no more scenes like this one in the future http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/M...13_m4hr3-M.jpg This was welding...Siberian stylehttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif The racks needs powder coating, so I'll pick it up on my way back through Salt Lake City in a couple of weeks time. Huge thanks to Jim and to his wife who fed and me and chatted. http://www.globetrottin.com |
Idling in Idaho
I'd been invited to a friend's place at Bear Lake, riding north through Utah, it actually got quite chilly in Logan Canyon, as I paused to switch on my heated Gerbing jacket and gloves. Lots of greenery all around and a few deer lurking by the roadside, which made me go a lot slower, I'd been hearing tales about motorcyclists hitting deer and they didn't have happy endings.
Finally, the lake appeared, sparkling blue in the distance. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3777-M.jpg Naturally I couldn't resist going in for a paddle (or a wade as Americans call it) http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...ear-Lake-M.jpg The water level in the lake had been dropping for a long time, but in the past year, it has risen as you can tell from the sign. and then we went out in their little ATV buggy thing, which I completely failed to get a picture of! The trails through the woods were pretty and it was nice to be a passenger for a change, I could sit back and enjoy the scenery. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3775-M.jpg We went up to the snow line, http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3778-M.jpg A hike through the woods brought us to some creeks http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...e-stream-M.jpg and back down to the lake, I wish I could have had more time to explore the area on Thelma, some great dirt trails http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3780-M.jpg |
Sandy Exploits
You guys are going to enjoy this
Leaving Idaho, I headed across Nevada, as expected it was hot and there's not an awful lot to see except more amusing road signs here's one for any dyslexic Star Wars fans who may be reading http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3783-M.jpg Towards the end of the day, I was getting tired and the sun was about to set, I headed off road to find a place to camp. I'd seen on my map a reservoir was marked and so headed towards it through the sandy tracks http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3800-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3790-M.jpg I was doing OK until this point http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3791-M.jpg For some reason, Thelma just could not be shifted, I did all the usual desert stuff of digging away and putting stuff under the wheel, pushing and pulling http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3792-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3793-M.jpg she moved about 2 inches http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3795-M.jpg and so I used a different tack...I don't think I've seen this manoeuvre in the handbook http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3796-M.jpg the facial grimaces say it all http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3797-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3798-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3799-M.jpg Finally, Thelma was back on reasonably solid groundhttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/clap.gif http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3813-M.jpg Feeling hot and sweaty, Ileft her there and headed off to the reservoir.... well more fool me Being a Brit, the image that comes to mind when the word reservoir is used is one of clear, blue sparkling waters. Why on earth I didn't stop to think "Tiff, you're in Nevada, one of the driest places on the planet"?! The reality of a Nevada Reservoir was actually something that personally I would describe as a rather large muddy puddle. There was not the faintest chance in hell of plunging into cool water, the mud was knee deep to get to the first few inches of water, at which point I gave up and contented myself with gazing at it instead http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3808-M.jpg I've got to admit, the "reservoir" looked better in the dark http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3803-M.jpg But then, even Thelma (Perfection Personified as a Bike) improves as the sun sets... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3809-M.jpg __________________ |
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Riding in America
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America has surprised me too with the sheer range of riding that is available here. This is from someone who doesn't usually choose to travel in the more developed countries. And I have a confession to make, I seem to have lost Flat Stanleydoh I'll be in trouble if a certain seven year old finds out.:innocent: |
Oh no, poor Flat Stanley (you could sneakily print out another).
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Tahoe and Auburn
As I left the muddy puddle/reservoir, I took comfort from the "care package" that had thoughtfully been provided by my friends at Bear Lake.
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3816-M.jpg Food parcels from Yanks to Brits are an old tradition, which I thought had died out soon after the Second World war, but still gratefully received. A bit squashed after a day in my tankbag but it tasted good. I finally made it to Lake Tahoe, it's a sort of Yank version of Lake Titicaca but with Taco Bell and McDonalds. I headed down onto the beach http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3817-M.jpg and had a swim, chilly but nowhere near as cold as the sea in Cornwall, I did appear to be the only adult in the water. Then back into my sweltering bike gear, persuaded a surprised Russian tourist to take my photo http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3819-M.jpg I would have liked to stay by the lake and find somewhere to camp on the south side, but I didn't have time. I joined the traffic heading out of the moutains, oh the joy of filtering through the queues at the roadworks, as I went down to Auburn, got there just in time to find out that the pasty shops had closed for the day. I had no idea there were pasty shops in America, I'll have to save those for another visit. My hosts in Auburn were Al and Holly, many thanks to them for their hospitality, and for all the bike chat. Here is Al with his Airhead BMW- older than Thelma and even more miles http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3822-M.jpg |
Sitting on a Bike in the Bay
The Bay area was as welcoming as ever.
I took to non-motorised two wheels, with a wild ride through the streets of downtown San Francisco on a borrowed push bike, wearing full bike gear except for my helmet. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3834-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3838-M.jpg these particular streets were fairly quiet, because guess where we were heading??? http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3833-M.jpg yep, a baseball game. actually I have been instructed that the correct terminology is Major League Ball Game the streets were closed to allow for all the pedestrians, each corner carefully watched over by the entirely un-menacing presence of these funny vehicles http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3824-M.jpg what I particularly liked about them was the slogan on the side http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3825-M.jpg The SF Giants stadium has an amzing backdrop, gazing out at the water and all the ships. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3831-M.jpg However most people's attention/interest seemed more taken up by not the ball game but the food and drink opportunitieshttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif I weakened (any excuse to eat) and went in search of the local speciality which turned out to be garlic fries http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3828-M.jpg I was with my friend Kevin and we settled down to eat the grease whilst he coached me in the rules, the jargon and all the funny stuff that happens during the game. I now feel quite at ease with the phrases "the bases are loaded" and "top of the 8th". No home runs but a good match as the Giants beat the Chicago Cubs. Someone asked where I had ridden from on my bike and I answered Chicago- which gave the impression that I was a hardcore Cubs fan. The route home took us past some trams, I tried to grab a lift http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3848-M.jpg |
Northern California
This is Tom (whom some of you will know), he is one of the tallest people I know and happens to live on a boat with a low ceiling.
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3823-M.jpg His boat is in Sausalito and so Tom took me out for a ride to show me the more scenic areas around Marin County. Tom was on his 1200GS, which I faled to get a picture of! We headed up Mount Tamalpais (I don't even attempt to pronounce that one). Lots of twisty roads and great veiws over the Pacific, inevitably, there was fog over the Golden Gate Bridge http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...ount-Tam-L.jpg The next day it was time to hit the road again, as Thelma and I headed north east, into some very pretty but very sparsely populated parts of California http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3849-M.jpg Yep, that's right, a population of just 35 http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3850-M.jpg and that looks like it was pushing things a bit when I saw how few houses there were. Up into the mountains where I camped and got a bit chilly, I had naively worn my shorts under my leather trousers assuming I would be in desert country, how wrong I was. That night as I lay in my tent trying to sleep, my knees were incredibly cold, I had lazily only taken my tank bag off Thelma and into the tent, which meant I didn't have my pannier to hand, I delved around inside the tank bag and the only clothing I could come up with was two pairs of clean knickers (female priorities in a woman's tank bag). I managed to wrap one around each knee and amazingly it worked, my knees warmed up and I fell asleep. The morning brought more beautiful scenery http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3852-M.jpg Seemingly devoid of traffic http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3851-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3856-M.jpg |
Thelma has a pink moment
For the eagle-eyed amongst you, I know there will be some questions about that last picture of Thelma..just what is that "pink thing" on her??http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/eekers.gif
Here's a picture which shows it a bit more, plus she matches the woman behind her. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4050-M.jpg I can explain...on my way north I dropped in at Ozzie's BMWs in Chico, California. http://ozziesbmwcenter.com Ozzie is a legend, a classic grumpy German, with a heart of gold, who knows everything about airheads. We'd originally met at the BMW MOA National Rally two years ago in Redmond. He'd wandered over to take a look at Thelma, we got chatting and then he said if I was ever passing to drop in and say hello, and to ask if I needed anything. here I was two years later, and he remembered me, he was starting to wince as I casually said "Thelma needs something". But I think he was pleasantly surprised when all I pointed out was the missing panel on the side. Up to now there has been one in the pictures as I "nicked/borrowed" one off Bill's Dad's old bike in Bill Mayer's workshop...I must confess that Bill was not there at the time. It was time to return the panel to Bill and I asked Ozzie for a replacement. He scratched his head and then led me into the room out the back. It was like an Aladdin's cave of old BMW parts- I'm kicking myself I didn't take a picture. He poked around on various shelves until finally he unearthed a panel for me. Not only was it not quite the right colour- it was pinkhttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/eekers.gif and it had the WRONG numbers on ithttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/eekers.gif Ozzie assured me this was the only one he had, and so I said a grateful thank you, put it on and rode off. Looking on the positive side I see it as a way for Thelma to get in touch with her feminine side, but the numbers...well they are something else. Almost daily I have had "enlightening" discussions with Yanks who are swearing blind that my bike is an R100GS and who refuse to listen when I say she's an R80GS. I know many of them walk away still not believing me. Just because it wasn't introduced into the States, it doesn't mean they don't exist. Everyone knows they kept the best BMWs for the European markethttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/lol8.gif And now, to aid them in their arguments, the bloody bike has the characters R100 on the side. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4051-M.jpg __________________ |
Cowboys and Cougars
We'd reached cowboy country
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3861-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3863-M.jpg and apparently it's cougar country too. When the bloke in the garage heard that I'd been wild camping, he told me I was mad (and no, I had NOT mentioned the knickers on knees scenario to him). He said there are lots of cougars around and that they will attack, particularly people on their own. Oh great I thought, I'll be keeping a careful eye open for them, apparently there's not a lot you can do to protect yourself from them. I'm just hoping my helmet and jacket would be up to the job. I asked the guys at Rukka how well they think my Rukka kevlar jacket would stand up to cougar claws, they said that was a test that hadn't been tried out yet, but that they would appreciate any first hand reports back about the jacket's performance under those circumstanceshttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif |
Busy in Boise
I had travelled north through small town, cougar-filled mountainous California then Oregon and into Boise Idaho because Thelma was heading for some TLC at Happy Trail in Boise, which I learnt is NOT pronounced the french way but sounds more like "Boysie"
Here she is in the workshop with Jeff taking a close look http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3866-M.jpg Her front end has never been the same since the Mongolian Episode... stripped down http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3865-M.jpg does that look straight now??? http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3868-M.jpg calling in the reinforcements http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3871-M.jpg and hey, presto, Thelma was so much straighter (and easier to ride) than before. Huge thanks to Jeff at Happy Trail. Meanwhile, I was upstairs, giving a talk and presentation about my travels which was a lot of fun. Thank you to Tim Bernard at Happy Trail for inviting me to give my presentation and for arranging for giving Thelma so much workshop time and parts, a big hi to all the busy people at Happy Trail and hello to Nevil from Plymouth/Canada whowas also presenting about his upcoming 2013 charity ride from my house (I kid you not) and around the world with his brother. And also a big thanks to Tim's wife Sherri as well as they put me up at their house for a couple of days. |
Hey Tiffany I just discovered this thread thanks for sharing your journey the pics and comentary are fantastic. I look forward to reading more.
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Thanks
You're welcome Becsta, more to follow shortly, glad you're enjoying the read.
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Oregon Tyre Gone
Heading across Oregon, aware that there will now potentially be bears when I'm camping so remembering to take the tyre levers into my tent at night.
But no-one had mentioned the wolves... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...IMG3884b-L.jpg Closer inspection, showed that she's actually the family pet and very friendly http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3876-M.jpg She belongs to Harold at Giant Loop and he and his family were my hosts for the weekend, although I think it would be more accurate to say that I hijacked their family weekend! First of all as I arrived into Bend on the Friday evening, there was an ominous wobble, I pulled over to find that I had a flat- yep - same tyre again. I knew I wasn't far from the Giant Loop HQ so I rang Harold and he popped out with Justin to give a hand. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3872-M.jpg They brought a compressor with them, but it only had an electrical socket type thing on it for the power. And as we all know, Thelma's power outlet died completely about 12 years ago in Mozambique. However Justin had the bright idea of using my jump leads on the plug bit to get the power from my battery (is this making sense?) see picture below http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3873-M.jpg As we were so close, we inflated and I rode carefully, nursing Thelma along to Giant Loop HQ.. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...ant-Loop-M.jpg We got the wheel and tyre off and found that the inner tube had a hole where it had rubbed against the plug repair- despite the guys who had put the tube in just 10 days ago assuring me that would not happen! Sometimes I wonder why I believe a single word that blokes say. Anyway, having identified the problem, more pressing things were at hand...it's Friday evening, the weekend is starting, so we retired to the local pub to discuss my options. |
Tyre Therapy
Early (ish) the next morning, we're heading out with Thelma's wheel. I didn't really have the money to get a new one- especially as this one had only been on six weeks, however, Justin had unearthed one that was buried in his pile of old but useable tyres in his backyard so we went to his place.
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3881-M.jpg Harold gave a hand as well, I think my role at this point was providing the moral support http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3879-M.jpg Justin's parrot Five Oh, came out to inspect the work http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3882-M.jpg OK, I hadn't had a chance to brush my hair very well that morning, but I didn't think it was THAT bad, Five Oh had other ideas and whilst Justin was finishing off, the parrot was crawling around in my hair and quite happily making a nest in there- look closely below and you'll see him. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...r-parrot-M.jpg New tyre on and we were off- HUGE thanks to Justin for his help and for the tyre. Harold and I were going riding, he led the way on his F800GS http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3885-L.jpg we swapped bikes for a while http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3887-M.jpg I think I got the better end of the deal, although it was a stretch to reach the ground http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...M/F800GS-M.jpg Oregon is a beautiful part of the world to ride in http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...fandango-M.jpg We went through Fandango Canyon, heading south to Summer Lake. Eventually getting there quite late in the day..in fact it was dark and I couldn't see much. But we did manage to find Harold's family who had arrived earlier and set up camp, they had a fire going and dinner ready. We were at the hot springs at Summer Lake, and the air temperature was somewhat on the chilly side, my feet were cold so I headed to the bath house, luckily the kids had warned me about the sign they had seen above the hot pool- "Clothing Optional After 9pm" The sight of a couple of naked middle-aged guys didn't deter me as I advanced in full bike gear to the edge of the pool, removed my bike boots and socks and warmed my feet in the water. The next morning, in the beautiful sunshine we had a soak in the outdoor pool- I like the ones that are natural like this http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3888-M.jpg Harold doing his best Jack Nicholson impressionhttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif A final dip in the hot springs- this time trying out the indoor pool, and ensuring it was a clothing compulsory time slothttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3891-M.jpg then out on the road again, through northern Oregon and into south eastern Washington where I lucked out big time with my camp spot - tucked away so no-one knew I was there, green grass and not one... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3895-M.jpg ...but two snow-topped mountains to gaze at and admire http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3896-M.jpg as I sat outside my tent drinking my morning cup of tea http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3901-M.jpg One of those blissful moments when life is so good and it's great to be on the road (and no mountain lions or bears in the night either). Time to take photos of flowers http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3923-M.jpg and, once I hit the tarmac again, appreciate the humour (for me anyway) of the credit, debit or tribal option on the petrol pump http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3924-M.jpg __________________ |
Thelma is so famous
Tiffany ...look what I found in the internet ..... I guess you can run, but can't hide ...Thealma is very famous
One day I will see you on the road ....sometime ...somewhere Cenair GS Giant's Adventure Track Competition (Link below) GS Giant's Adventure Track Competition | Facebook Pictures are from Facebook http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...06631732_n.jpg http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...19858859_o.jpg http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphot...39804735_o.jpg |
GS Riding
Hi Cenair
thanks for that- although I'm on someone's big screen work computer and it was a bit much to see my face in close up without warning!! yep folks, Tiffany Coates has entered the 21st Century and is now on FaceBook:thumbup1: |
Canadian Capers
arrived in the land of Mounties and Bears to a more mundane pastime
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3930-M.jpg I was staying with friends and helped to mow their lawn Thelma also needed a bit of attention, some of the dirt trails in Oregon had snapped part of the pannier rack- still using the old one at this point in case you're wondering...."Didn't she get a new one??" My friend Grant accompanied me to the nearest welding place and did that Blokey thing of going in through the back door and approach the nearest welder who for a few bucks set to work http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3925-M.jpg Possiblythe most high-tech welder that Thelma has ever seen. Back to work Coates with more lawns to mow....http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3936-M.jpg And then some time to socialise, I went to the Horizons Unlimited meeting where I met up with Miquel Silvestre http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...on-bikes-M.jpg a Spanish bike rider who is going around the world, he had just shipped his bike into Vancuver from the Philippines. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3927-M.jpg He's on a mission to follow in the footsteps of the more obscure Spanish Explorers who ventured overseas in centuries past. He has made several short films whilst on the road which are on YouTube and are worth watching, he's also a very entertaining speaker, here's his website http://www.miquelsilvestre.com/ and then I spotted the strangest Mounties I have ever seenhttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/eekers.gif http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3975-M.jpg More about those later |
Back in the USA
Having completed all the lawn-mowing and pasty-making, it was time to ride south after heading north for the last few weeks. I would have liked to spend more time in beautiful British Columbia, there's a lot to see and enjoy there, and I have previously crossed it south to north as well as west to east on Thelma but although I may be ambling through America, I am on a bit of a schedule this time.
Once more another grilling at US Immigration as I re-entered- as well as being told off for going through the "Documents Ready" lane- huh http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/puzzled.gif Apparently this lane is only for people who have special ID cards that can be computer scanned- the guy was not impressed with the Brit rolling up with her passport AND on a foreign registered bike! An hour later I've convinced them I'm not THAT dodgy Tiffany Coates AGAIN (see earlier in this blog) and I'm through once more, to be greeted by all the signs for cheap petrol in the land of opportunity...and what's this?? Cheap butter as well by all accounts. Apparently it's much cheaper in the US and lots of Canadians buy their dairy products south of the border. A steady ride got me to THE place to be in Seattle on a Friday night... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3941-M.jpg The George and Dragon pub where they'd been tracking my progress via my website and had a pint of beer ready for me. My host for the next few days (looking like he's behind bars in the pub car park!!) http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3938-M.jpg Mick Vallantine from Vallantine Motorworks- an independent BMW specialist http://vallantinemotorworks.com/ He's a Brit I've known for years, since the Alaska to Tierra Del Fuego trip Thelma and I did 10 years ago. Leaving Thelma in safe hands, so I could have a couple of drinks, the evening ended with some Tiff Coates Travel Tips 1) How to let yourself into someone's house when you don't have the key http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3944-M.jpg Yep, that's right, just crawl through the dog flap- using a good deal of persuasion and pushing, I managed to get Bill through this particular dog flap (Yanks call them doggie doors!) The next morning was a working day and so it was a morning commute wth the push bikes, dog and Mick with his coffeee in hand... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3949-M.jpg A bloke who can multi-task http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3945-M.jpg |
Strange Goings on in Seattle
remember that picture of those strange looking Mounties?
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3975-M.jpg Due to the economic recession, it looks like they've had to trade in their horses for bicycles and the uniforms aren't quite as smart as they used to be, then look more closely and you'll see that actually they are nakedhttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/eekers.gif!! It's all body paint. Yep, folks...America, a country not known for its tolerance of nudity (I've never seen a topless woman on a beach here) had a festival parade which consisted of naked or nearly naked people riding bicycles. here are a few of the more tasteful pictures http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3951-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3956-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3960-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3961-M.jpg and in case you missed them first time, they rode and skated past several times! I had to retire to the pub for a drink to settle my nerves after that. |
North West Exploits
Dog walking around the lake was a daily occurence
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3987-M.jpg Temperatures are a bit different to my previous visit, same spot in winter http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...87649135-M.jpg This blinged up gorilla followed me home from the Fremont Festival (preferabe to a naked man painted as a tree though) http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3985-M.jpg and I decided not to share the following picture with my Mum... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3989-M.jpg Over to the Olympia peninsula to visit the nice people at Gerbing Heated clothing and to thank them as my jacket and gloves were an absolute lifesaver in Tibet last year http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4074-M.jpg and then I got the ferry back to Seattle http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4075-M.jpg Eating a meal, Korean style... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...staurant-M.jpg I'd been invited out by local Korean riders in Seattle, Karl Park and his friends, and what a feast it was http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...M/b-meal-M.jpg Hmm, maybe I should have done my hair first. I even risked the kimchi (very spicy stuff). http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O...Kimchi-1-M.jpg Many thanks to Karl and his friends for the great evening and fantastic food, for those of you concerned about the fish on the table..no, I didn't eat them!http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/lol8.gif The following night I gave a talk at AltRider, AltRider: Venture On between us we drew a great crowd and what an evening it was- it's a little-known scientific fact that the Q&A session is decidedly more interesting when a keg of beer has been consumed. A big thank you to Jeremy, Rhianna, Lucy and also Eric the long-suffering sound guy and button presser for a fab night. |
Oregon
First stop was Portland where I stayed with friends and helped out at the Women's Training Day at the fire station (my friend is a fire fighter)
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3991-M.jpg I mainly watched and took photos http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3993-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3995-M.jpg And from a sunny Portland, I reached a rainy Oakridge, just east of Eugene (hummming bird in the rain) http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG3998-M.jpg where they were holding the Tynda Burning Moto Man Rally. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4009-M.jpg Eric getting things ready http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4010-M.jpg And here is the famous Moto Man...before he is burnt http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4008-L.jpg |
Tynda Moto Burning Man
A great gathering of people, various travellers from different countries and they even let a few Yanks in. As always, the Aussies were the most vocal contingent
The event is hosted and organised by Eric and Gail Hawes (RTW motorcyclists), this amazing couple rode to Madagan back in the early 90's! They play host to many travellers making their way across the Americas and they get their visitors to leave a sign on one of their signposts http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4011-M.jpg Looking at the various signs, it was like a Who's Who of world travellers, a visitors' book with a difference. I found one bloke examining Thelma http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4012-M.jpg And then he showed me his handiwork, he had replaced Thelma's missing engine peep hole cover (there's probably a more technical name for it- any nerds reading this and want to respond, feel free). I didn't even get his name, but he used one off his own bike, which was a side car outfit... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4013-M.jpg Meanwhile someone else was getting to grips with Thelma's "pink bit" http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4053-M.jpg First of all removing the offensive 100 decal and then making it black. The riverside cheese and wine was popular albeit somewhat soggy http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4015-M.jpg The sun was shining for the breakfast pancakes, as cooked by a colourful character http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4038-M.jpg People gathered around eating them as fast as he coud cook http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4002-M.jpg Thelma as always, providing a suitable flat surface for eating off we had several talks and presentations, this was one from Ramey "Coach", who was talking to us about correct bike riding position...hmmm, there's a lot to think about http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4001-M.jpg |
Tynda Dry
It started raining again, the rain gear was imaginative, varied and colourful
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4017-M.jpg Trying to avoid the rain, we went to the local pub (any excuse to go to the pubhttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif), I enjoyed the notice in the window...do they know something that we don't?? http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4018-M.jpg I also enjoyed their suggested items to include in an emergency kit http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4021-M.jpg I like the idea of the comfort/stress foods. And then it got dark, it had stopped raining - what perfect timing, and we were able to enjoy the bonfire http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4022-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4036-L.jpg |
Just Call Me Da Vinci
The next morning was clear and bright, Eric and Gail said I couldn't leave until I had added my own sign to their signpost. Feeling a burst of inspiration, I grabbed the paint pots and set to work...
Thelma is doing her bit first http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4042-M.jpg a bit more yellow paint http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4046-M.jpg Then I started getting heckled by the Aussies http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4044-M.jpg Thelma in action http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4047-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4048-M.jpg Meanwhile, not wanting to be outshone Ken and Carol, the Aussies started working on their own sign, http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4054-M.jpg their R80G/S has done over 400,000 miles!http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/eekers.gif I started my part of the sign http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4057-M.jpg Whilst I was outin the sunshine, Thelma was being inspected in the garage http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4058-M.jpg The finished product http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4062-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4063-M.jpg And then the Aussies turned up with theirs! http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4071-M.jpg |
Great trip
Great job of updating, I really enjoy the photos. If you are every riding through Kyrgyzstan look us up in Sukuluk, just outside of Bishkek. Get to our one and only stop light and and head toward the mountains, or just ask where the Americans live and everyone knows us.
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Go the Aussies. :thumbup1:
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Hi Tiffany!
Dig'n the pic's and the story's down here in the south of TX......keep em coming:) |
The 'Stans
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you happen to live in my favourite 'Stan, and so yes, I will definitely be back there at some point, just not sure when that might be. I'm lucky enough to have been there twice by bike and loved it. :scooter: |
Onions and Insects
Riding through vineyards and fields of various vegetables, the weather got warmer as I headed inland, reaching this place
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4082-M.jpg Walla Walla, home of the sweet onion and also home to Dan http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4081-M.jpg A friend who first got in touch three years ago, I said to him then that if I was ever passing Walla Walla, I'd drop by. A drink and a pastry in a very nice patisserie accompanied by an interesting tour of the town's main street and historic buildings. Then off again through eastern Oregon where I seemed to be a magnet for every flying insect known to man (or woman:innocent:). http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4084-M.jpg Hmmm, not sure if that photo did justice to the insects, but it was worth getting the picture done, if only for the amusement value in trying to get a passerby to realise that I wanted a picture that showed the insects on my visor and not one of the beautiful surroundings. I paused in Oregon only to camp in the mountains as I passed through - keeping a wary eye out for bears. Back across the corner of Iowa (apologies to all fans of Iowa that I'm unable to do justice to its great rides on twisty roads, but I needed to get across America quite quickly at this point). Then once more into the glaring desert that is known as Nevada, pausing only to say hello to the nice man at the petrol station in Wells again and just before that to get a photo of the Jackpot sign http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4085-M.jpg Who on earth would call their town Jackpot?? ne of the pluses about being in a desert is the lack of insects. |
Bloody Fantastic Bonneville
Thelma and I had reached the Bonneville Salt Flats, home to many motorbike land speed records and just simply a very cool place. I'd decided that I couldn't possibly leave America without visiting the flats.
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4098-M.jpg We took off across the salt, at a reasonable speed initially as there was still mud under the hard salt crust, I was light enough to walk on it, but heavyweight Thelma was breaking through the salt and wallowing a bit in the clay-like mud underneath. Previous bike experiences on salt flats have taught me to be wary of the mud (Alon if you're reading this...Uyuni in 2003!) I decided to off-load my bags and make the back end lighter, and then chucked my tank bag off as well, Thelma likes the freedom. I looked around and got my bearings...no one else in sight. And then I just rode and rode, enjoying the experience of being on the salt http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4181-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4187-M.jpg Thelma looks good with a white background http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4096-L.jpg Our shadows were getting long, http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4183-M.jpg It was time to retrieve the bags and find a camp spot, collecting bits of wood along the way. I looked around, then rode and rode and rode....8 miles later and I realised that I really had not gotten my bearings very well and all the landmarks were so far away that it was deceptive. I could not find the cases and bag at all, I was riding round in circles desperately searching. I rode on, as it got darker taking a bit of comfort from the knowledge that: a) I had my tent and camping gear in my topbox with me (along with a small bottle of cider), so I didn't need the cases again that night b) because I had dropped off my tank bag with the cases, that at least had the GPS Spot Locator in it sending out a signal, and if all else failed I would have to go to the road in the morning and find someone to come with me with a smart phone (what a great invention) to track it down my bags via the spot locator on my website. c) It would be amisung for the rest of the world to picture me searching for my bags (especially my parents!) Finally as the gloom was deepening I spotted some dark shapes in the distance and raced over to my joy there they were http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4102-M.jpg as you can see I had literally just paused riding and dropped them off on either side of Thelma I was so relieved I took a couple of pictures, I quite like the image of these bags abandoned on the salt flat http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4101-M.jpg I parked Thelma with a piece of wood under her side stand as otherwise it would just sink into the salt and mud to a depth of 6-8 inches and be impossible to pick up again. I decided to get a picture of us together with the full moon in the background - except that in the picture it looks quite small, it's above the mirror a white spot in the sky. I set up the timer on the camera, then sat myself down... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4103-M.jpg Whoops, just as I sat down, Thelma started to fall over, the piece of wood had made her too upright and the weight of the heavier case on the left side pulled her over http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4104-M.jpg all amusingly caught on the timer delay of the camera as I rushed to get up http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4105-M.jpg You can see where the rocker cover just embeds into the mud http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4106-M.jpg and you can also see all the salt on her bash plate Oh Dear Cases off I started the long job of getting her upright, not usually an issue for me, but I had a full tank of petrol and we were in mud, which means that as I started taking Thelma's weight, I would just sink deeper and deeper into the mud the more I tried to lift her. She weighs over four times more than me. I managed to get the cases underneath her so that she was off her side a bit and the tyres were actually on the ground http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4107-M.jpg and then I had to remove her fuel tank- that made her 22Kgs (49lbs) lighter, which makes a big difference to me. Finally she was upright once more. Tank back on and we made our way out into the middle of the salt flat, about seven miles from solid land and put up my tent http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4157-M.jpg There is a beautiful solitude about camping in the middle of a desert whether it's salt or sand. This was one of the most amazing nightsI have had in all my travels, I had the full moon and the stars above me and silence all around. I managed to get a camp fire going http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4145-M.jpg and sat sipping my cider enjoying the night... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4117-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4118-M.jpg |
Overnight camping, fires and fireworks are prohibited on the salt flats to maintain public health and safety and protect natural resources. There are no developed campground facilities; however, camping is available on adjacent public lands. During events participants may camp on the mud flats next to the Salt Flats access road.
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It was photo shop
Tiffany was not really camping on the salt flats! It was just photo shop!:innocent:
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Oh Dear...
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Back to Civilisation
Early morning on the Bonneville Salt Flats...and all is peaceful
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4189-L.jpg It's that bloody British woman and her BMW again. Drinking her morning cup of tea by the looks of it http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4198-M.jpg Before packing up http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4161-M.jpg making the most of the sunrise and then heading off http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4177-M.jpg |
Thelma Gets a Present
Remember this guy?
http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4200-M.jpg It's Jim Harvey from www.globetrottin.com When Thelma and I had initially passed through Utah a month ago and met him at the Adventure Summit Rally, Jim had kindly offered to craft one of his fantastic lugage racks for Thelma (having first laughed his head off at the Mongolian welding holding it together). Thelma spent a day with Jim and now here we were, back again to pick up the finished product, complete with a very nice powder coating. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4204-M.jpg I had to confess to having been riding on the Bonneville Salt Flatshttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/icon10.gif http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4205-M.jpg And so he produced a hose pipe and we began washing Thelma down http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4206-M.jpg Until he realised I was in supervising mode and passed the hose over to me http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4208-M.jpg My trousers were quite salty looking as well http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4207-M.jpg With Thelma clean(er!), he compared the old racks to the new ones... http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4203-M.jpg No comparison. and then started putting them on http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4202-M.jpg the finished product http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4211-M.jpg http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4210-M.jpg They look fantastic and they will last a very long timehttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/clap.gifhttp://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/clap.gif Huge thanks to Jim. |
Charcoal in Colorado
Another cup of tea time chaps and chapettes, you're going to like this one as I get myself into another little scrape.
It's great to be heading east once more, no more afternoon sun in my eyes as my shadow stetches away in front of me. I'm crossing the state line from Utah into Colorado. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4213-M.jpg Some threatening looking clouds ahead of me, which I ignored at the time, more fool me as you will find out as you read on. A beautiful sunset, if a little strange looking - but then I don't live in the mountains and maybe this is normal for around here http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4219-M.jpg Time to head off the road and find somewhere to camp http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4226-M.jpg A nice little spot in a deserted canyon for my tent. http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4229-M.jpg There were some strange noises though, the occasional coughing noise, which made me a bit nervous as they reminded me of leopards coughing in Africa. I know there aren't any leopards here, but do mountain lions cough?? Made a mental note to self to make sure that I take my tyre levers into the tent with me tonight. While I was mooching around taking a look at my canyon, I started to notice these bits of white stuff floating around http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4230-M.jpg Could that possibly be ash? I had been hearing about fires in Colorado. I did a Charlie Coates (my Dad/survival guru) and checked the direction of the wind with some bits of grass- hmm, it seemed to be coming from the direction of some funny looking clouds, on having a second look I decided they might be far off distant clouds of smoke. Feeling a bit concerned but not wanting to be a bloody Cassandra (drama queen) about the situation, I checked in with my friend Shelly who handily happens to be a forest fire fighter based in Colorado!! But she was in the middle of some work stuff, and we had some connecting problems with the phone, unusually (and luckily for me) there was a variable signal of sorts in the canyon; mostly in rural areas I don't get one at all. So we had a couple of texts going backwards and forwards until she could get to a computer. About 45 minutes later she got back to me saying it didn't look good, but I might be OK. then suddenly after another 10 mins she was urgently trying to get hold of me to say she's been on the fire brigade infra-red website and she has found my exact position through my GPS SPOT locator (I'd been a bit vague/unsure of my exact location but was within 20 miles) and she says get out NOW, the fire is less than 5 miles from me and being blown my way straight up my peaceful canyon! Now that she mentioned it, maybe that sky did look a bit more threatening than I had thought http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4231-M.jpg I threw everything back onto Thelma, folded the tent a bit and strapped it onto my pillion seat (no time for niceties like rolling and packing) and roared off- by this point there was quite a bit of ash. I only needed to go 12 miles down the road to be safe, but it meant I was off-roading in the dark trying to find somewhere flat for my tent. It's getting dark and I'm running out of options, not many tracks leading off the road, I finally found one and followed it, I was about to stop when an awful stench came wafting past my nose, I pointed Thelma's headlight to find this http://tiffanystravels.smugmug.com/O.../IMG4233-M.jpg A cow that was definitely deceased and stinking. I quite like the way the tail is still jauntily waving in the air. I tried to go upwind from it but the trail got very narrow and was right next to the road. I had to admit defeat, as I didn't feel like heading back onto more tarmac and so put my tent up 200 yards downwind from Ermintrude. Lying in my sleeping bag and catching the occasional waft of decomposing cattle. But thanking my lucky stars for Shelly and for my SPOT locator. |
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