glad that you made it to Turkey
 

please can you tell us how much is the ferry for you and your bike ?
also good contact phone mail to the agency or the man to book the ferry
enjoy Turkey i was in MErsin 2002 on a Dr 800 on my way from Egypt to France
ride safe always :scooter:

http://www.mhes.com.au/foreverfree/p.../381-ferry.jpg
Leaving Port Said harbour. It is a long way out a channel before the ship reaches the open ocean. A good way to say good bye to Port Said, a friendly town to be our home for four days.

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Our ferry was mostly empty. Two motorbikes, two cars and one truck was all that occupied the two RoRo vehicle decks.

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The end of the journey through the black continent. Somehow it feels like the end of my journey. The last picture of Africa as it slowly disappears in the distance.

http://www.mhes.com.au/foreverfree/p.../384-ocean.jpg
This is what you see when you travel the Mediterranean. Blue water. Nothing else for two days.

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The first picture of Turkey. Arriving in the port of Mersin.

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Our ship and our home for two days and three nights. The 'Anna Marine'.

To book the ferry in Port Said you need to pay:
US$ 400 for ticket for one bike and one person
LE 750 commission for Naggar Shipping Company
LE 500 for Customs clearance

On arrival in Mersin the only thing you need to pay is Third Party Insurance for your bike. It costs 15 Turkish Lira for one months. If you, unlike many nationalities, need a visa it costs 15 Euro. No other costs occure on arrival.

To book the ferry from Egypt call Mohammed from Naggar Shipping (+20) 10 9166 5695

thanks
 

hi Marco
thanks a lot for your useful details ,
i will try to catch it for a 2 week trip to Turkey ,
love the way you write about your trip make me feel that i need to be on the road soon
cheers

great to reading from you
 

He Marco

Here is Marcel writing. I following your reports and great picutres for same weeks. I hope your hurt is healed now and you are feel good and free again. This repot shocked me realy. I hope you and Martin can stay one night or more at your home in Männedorf (Switzland) on your way to germany.
I know it depents from your route to germany, but we were very happy to see you and we have a clean toilet.

Love Marcel
mail to: marcel.hubrig@gmx.de

I finally caught up with you!
 

Marco

I specifically signed up so I can say a BIG THANKS for sharing your awsom experience on the road. I stumbled upon your report a week ago while searching for a random report to check out, and I could'nt stop reading until I reached the latest post yesterday.

Yours is the second rr I read end to end wthout stopping, and I must say there is this strong connection that your writing has with the reader because of your unique ability to paint a perfect picture of your situation with words.

Im in Nigeria(west Africa)and I felt sad when you had to change route because of the issues in DRC. And your accident was a real shocker too. I hope that some day you would come to west africa as you wanted. Wish you the best.

Turkey
 

Thanks everyone for your nice comments, you guys really keep me going!

Just a short one today, I have to take the opportunity to use the free WIFI in my hotel.
After coming from Africa, Turkey keeps surprising me. Things are suddenly so easy in so in many aspects.
Back on Monday in Mersin, when we finally got out of the port and found a cheap hotel, I was ready for action. Full of energy that now, there was no need for waiting for anything any more. Ready to get things done. First priority has of course my little Suzuki. The accident seemed to have misplaced the oil seals of my front shocks, both were leaking oil badly. And I needed to find a solution for the bent handlebar. So I asked at the hotel if they know a Suzuki workshop in town. Which the guy on the front desk googled and without me knowing he called them on the phone to make them come to the hotel. Just wait. Maybe half an hour.

What?

The hotel guy was a really lucky guy that day. When he said 'Just wait' he got himself in real danger. I was ready to go to places, check out places, ask in workshops before they close for the evening. What was I doing now? WAITING!!!!! Thanks again! I suppose he noticed my face turning angry and in an pre-emptive strike invited me for a cup of excellent milk coffee. Well, okay then.
At the end though it was a really good thing. The mechanic came to the hotel as promised half an hour later. On a Chinese bike with a Suzuki badge on either side. Which was not a good omen. He had a look at the leaking forks. And to my surprise he said 'yes, we can...' (repair them). Which was a good omen. It would take two days to order the new oil seals. And that's all we need. Fortunately I carried a pair of new oil seals for my shocks with me all the way through Africa. So we could start the next morning at his workshop.

When it comes to my little Suzuki I don't trust everyone. Africa taught me to have a close look at the mechanic and the tools first. 'Yes we can' often meant 'We will try if we can bodge something'.
However, arriving at the workshop in Mersin really surprised me. There were BMW bikes, KTM, Kawasaki KLRs parked outside. There were workshop posters of Suzuki bikes on the wall. Everything looked clean and professional. And watching the mechanic made me feel like him loving my bike just as much as I do. Really good man. Within three hours and many many teas later and with the help of my DR650 workshop handbook everything was back to perfect order. New fork oil according to Suzuki specs, new oil seals, the handlebar bent back and sprayed black again, you would not see a difference to a new one. Seeing me smiling all the time he also cleaned the whole bike and lubed the chain with real chain lube (not just old motor oil as they did in Africa). Wow!
All this made me really happy! I planned to stay for two days in Mersin to get it all done without knowing if it could be done in Mersin at all. Now it took just half a day and my little Suzuki has absolutely no issues remaining from that accident! Back in the hotel I just wanted her to be in even more perfect shape and celebrated her with a set of shiny new spark plugs and a replacement of the broken aluminium cross brace of the Safari tank. With her being in such perfect state I couldn't wait to go riding again.
And so I did today. I must say I don't know nothing about Turkey. I tried to get at least a map in Mersin but failed. Using a free map from a petrol station (showing you all the stations of this brand overlaid on a map with dots for towns and lines for streets) I stumble through Turkey like a blind man. But hey, what counts is that riding here is so much fun. My little Suzuki and me, we did almost 400km today. Along awesome paved roads through the mountains. Small roads with next to no traffic. Winding their way up and down and through small towns with big mosques pitched on the mountain side. It felt like a dream being able to ride and ride and ride again. Feeling the freedom again without my knee putting any restraints on the fun. Or the little issues on the bike casting small shadows. No, everything was good. For the first time in many weeks I was free to ride. Troublefree. The environment was awesome. Everything worked. Nothing to be waiting for. Just go. And go. And go. Everywhere I stopped I found friendly people. I guess me smiling on my bike, I was just radiating freedom. And this attracted many good people. So I pretty much got stuck in these towns whenever I dared to stop. But it's nice. Turkish people are very friendly. Same as in Egypt, whatever you do, you do it with a glass of fresh tea in your hand. Which really hypes you up. I strongly believe my journey through Turkey will be a happy one.

The shocking part of today though was how cold it got! I started in the morning into a beautifully warm mediterranean summer day in Mersin. And ended up in snow in the mountains just a few hours later. The first snow since Kilimanjaro. But this time right next to the road. Fortunately not yet on the road.

I guess this is the way the next few days will go. Choosing some small roads through rural Turkey, roads which lead roughly in North Westerly direction. And enjoy riding as much as I can. Easy.

http://www.mhes.com.au/foreverfree/p.../387-bikes.jpg
Who's got the biggest bike now?

http://www.mhes.com.au/foreverfree/p.../388-close.jpg
She is back in perfect shape - my little Suzuki loving the mountains of Turkey

http://www.mhes.com.au/foreverfree/p...b/389-free.jpg
After all this time waiting and waiting and waiting it felt so good to be free to move again, see places, do stuff.

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My new buddy in the snow. Unfortunately he couldn't hold on at speed.

http://www.mhes.com.au/foreverfree/p...b/391-snow.jpg
Does this look cold? Yep!

Cheers Marcel!
Sounds awesome, you have no idea about the value of a clean toilet with working flush!!!
Although the route will not go through Switzerland I'm sure we will have a chance to catch up!

It kinda saddens me seeing your trip slowly coming to an end. :(

Keep on riding and enjoying your trip to the fullest, Marco! Thanks for sharing your adventures with us. :thumbup1:

Hi Marco, Its been great reading about your trip and your pics are awesome. So glad your little suzuki is the centre of attention in so many great shots. Good luck and safe travels. How are you making your way back home and is little suzuki coming home with you? Cheers Jill

Last days in Turkey
 

The cold and sometimes rainy conditions in Turkey made me travel faster than I usually would. The route I chose went in a pretty straight line from Mersin near the Syrian border in the South to Canakkale in the North West of Turkey. Passing through Mut, Bozkir, Aksehir, Afyonkarahisar, Kuetahya and Balikesir. Starting on the warm Mediterranean coast in Mersin the road quickly went up to an altitude of around 1800m and stayed in the mountains all the way to Kuehtaya. It's beautiful scenery as you ride along. The roads are small and windy. The views far and awesome. There is next to no traffic. So cruising along you can make the most of this landscape, stop anytime, take photos. It feels like you and your bike own the road. Really just relax and enjoy the ride.
The mountains are quite cold though and there is snow. Nothing some proper riding gear can't cope with though. So I was riding with almost empty panniers, wearing pretty much all the clothes I could find. But once past Kuetahya everything changes. Most importantly the terrain is getting flatter. There is no more snow. It's much warmer. And everything looks nice and green. It looks a bit like the Hobbit Land out of the Lord of the Rings. An undulating landscape and everything covered in green. Most of it is agriculture, wheat fields or rye, often even rice. But still, there are hardly any settlements. Usually there is a town every 50km or so. And the roads are all yours to enjoy. Past Kuetahya the roads turned into highways, split carriageways, two lanes each direction. And much more straight than the small mountain roads. But still almost no traffic.

In terms of the weather Turkey is quite a change to Egypt. Not just the cold conditions in the mountains. But also rain. It is not so green for no reason. I guess it is a combination of these facts, enjoying the ride so much and trying to escape from uncomfortable weather, which made me gain a lot of km during the last few days.
So consequently - I am now on European soil. Still in Turkey. There is a ferry across the Bosporus from Canakkale to Eceabat which I took. And Eceabat is Europe.
Much more importantly though is the fact that Eceabat is on the Gallipoli peninsula. As an Australian you can not go to Turkey and not visit Gallipoli. In fact I would say that for Aussies Gallipoli is the most significant place outside Australia. Why?

Long time back in the WW1 it was here that the Australian and New Zealand Army Corp (ANZAC) appeared on the world stage for the first time as an independent entity. In support of Mother England the ANZAC landed on a beach on the West coast of the Gallipoli peninsula on the 25th April 1915 in order to open up a new front and keep Turkey out of the war in Europe. After months of fierce fighting and thousands of casualties the operation failed. It ended in the evacuation of the ANZAC troops and Turkey reclaiming the tiny bit of land they had occupied.
The reason why it is so significant for Australia (and New Zealand) is the fact that Australia got involved as Australia. Not as before mixed up with English or Commonwealth troops. No, this time the Aussies stood on their own feet. They might have lost the battle. But established a reputation. And Australia's self confidence. And so, till today, the 25th of April continues to be a public holiday in Australia in commemoration of the ANZAC.
Thinking about it - it is an odd thing: while Australia celebrates it's defeat with a public holiday every year, Turkey accepts and supports memorials on their soil for troops attacking and occupying their country, resulting in the death of thousands of Turkish soldiers. The Turkish government even officially renamed the small bay at Gallipoli's West coast to 'ANZAC cove' as many brass plaques along the beach will tell you. In honour of an attacking force?? However, war does not make sense. And obviously lots has changed between Turkey and Australia in the meantime.

I liked the fact that my first foot steps onto the European continent would take place in Gallipoli. Arriving there after a short ride with a car ferry really was an awesome feeling. It's the same Gallipoli I heard so much about, saw so many pictures of. Was that really happening? Sydney to Gallipoli on a motorbike?

What I did not know was that Gallipoli is not just one site, no it is a peninsula full of sites. Of course the battle for Gallipoli is just as important for Turkish people as it is for Australians. After all Turkey successfully defended their country against the almigty Commonwealth troops. So the Gallipoli peninsula is full of monuments, brass plaques, historic sites. And cemetaries. Most of all cemetaries. The majority of the sites commemorate the Turkish involvement in the battle. And Turkish people take it in by the bus load. Okay, I went there on the weekend, but there were literally hundreds of buses. And thousands of people.
The ANZAC sites though were mostly deserted. However, there was one small bus with Australian tourists. And I met two more groups of Aussies in a rental car each. When I heard the familiar accent I felt all warm inside.

In moments like these I start missing Australia. It's strange. I love travelling. Really do. And sometimes, when travelling, I miss Australia. And I know, once I am back home I will miss travelling. And the freedom it gives you. And how much you grow through travelling. Now that the journey slowly comes to an end I start thinking about what life back home will be like. Back in the old appartment. Back in the old job. But the journey changed me to a new person. No doubt about that. Will it all be compatible again?

But that's a bridge I will cross when I get there.

For now I am in Edirne. Ready to cross into Bulgaria, the next country on this journey. Again I must admit, a country I know almost nothing about. No info, no map, no idea. I prepared myself nicely for Africa. But skipped the Europe part completely in my preparations. So it will be a surprise. I guess a good one.

Turkey pics
 

http://www.mhes.com.au/foreverfree/p.../392-green.jpg

The landscape Nort of Kuetahya changed into a beautiful green.

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At the town of Canakkale - looking across the Bosporus to Europe and the Gallipoli peninsula.

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My little Suzuki wedged in by buses on the ferry across the Bosporus.

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The other side, Europe!!!

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The main Turkish memorial site, consisting of a huge war cemetary and a tall monumental tower. It was just buzzing with people coming here on a weekend trip.

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The ANZAC cove, a beach where the ANZAC troops landed back in 1915 and the struggle for Gallipoli started.

http://www.mhes.com.au/foreverfree/p.../398-anzac.jpg
Me at one of the memorial sites.

http://www.mhes.com.au/foreverfree/p...b/399-pine.jpg
The main ANZAC memorial site. Also a big cemetary and a colossal monument. But almost no one there.

Cheers mate! The trip coming to it's end makes me sad too. Travelling is awesome. The hope lies in the fact that there is always another trip! Back to Africa. One day...

There is no way in hell I would leave my little Suzuki behind!!! Of course she will come back with me!!! Both of us will land in Sydney on a Qantas plane from Frankfurt on the 16th of August.